TW201340989A - Hair care composition - Google Patents

Abstract

A kit for colouring hair, comprising: (i) a first aqueous composition comprising (a) at least 0.01 wt% of a metal ion in the form of a salt and/or complex in which the metal is selected from the group consisting of iron, copper, zinc, aluminium, manganese and mixtures thereof; and (b) a suspending agent comprising at least 0.1wt%, of the total composition citrus fibre that has been mechanically pulped and swollen in water. (ii) a second aqueous second composition, which comprises at least 0.01 wt% of a polyphenol?

Description

Hair care composition

The present invention relates to hair dye compositions.

It has been known for many years that polyphenolic compounds dyed with metal ions can be used to color hair for humans. A dye composition containing a metal salt is described in EP0327345 (Beecham), WO2010/135237 (Advanced Cosmetics Technology); WO/2007/130777 and WO2000/29036 (Henkel).

However, we have found that compositions comprising metal salts such as iron are often unstable upon storage, especially in shampoo compositions containing crosslinked polyacrylate as a suspending agent.

The present invention alleviates the problem of instability, especially the phase separation, precipitation and rancid odor of iron-containing dye compositions.

Accordingly, the present invention provides a hair dye kit comprising: (i) a first aqueous shampoo composition comprising a) at least 0.01% by weight of gold in the form of a salt and/or a complex Is a genus, wherein the metal is selected from the group consisting of iron, copper, zinc, aluminum, manganese, and mixtures thereof; and b) a suspending agent comprising at least 0.1% by weight of citrus fibers of the total composition, The citrus fibre has been mechanically slurried and expanded in water, (ii) a second aqueous second composition comprising at least 0.01% by weight of polyphenols selected from the group consisting of gallic acid, gluten Methyl ester, ethyl gallate, propyl gallate and mixtures thereof.

The present invention also describes a method of dyeing hair comprising the steps of sequentially applying the following composition to the hair in any order: (i) a first aqueous composition comprising a) at least 0.01% by weight of a salt and/or a complex a metal ion in a form selected from the group consisting of iron, copper, zinc, aluminum, manganese, and mixtures thereof; and b) a suspending agent comprising at least 0.1% by weight of the total composition of citrus A fiber that has been mechanically slurried and expanded in water, (ii) a second aqueous second composition comprising at least 0.01% by weight polyphenol.

Description of the invention Metal salt/complex

The shampoo composition of the present invention comprises at least one metal ion in the form of a salt and/or a complex, wherein the metal is selected from the group consisting of iron, copper, zinc, aluminum or manganese. . The content of the metal ion is from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 3% by weight based on the total of the shampoo composition.

The level of metal ions in the blend can be determined by quantitative elemental analysis.

For the avoidance of doubt, if the blend contains 2% by weight of a complex (molecular weight 446.14), , it will contain 55.84/446.14 * 2 = 0.25 wt% iron (II) (two decimal places are reserved). If the blend contains 1% by weight of ferrous chloride, it will contain 55.84 / 126.75 * 1 = 0.44% by weight of Fe(II) (two decimal places are retained).

Preferably, the metal ion is selected from the group consisting of Fe(II), Fe(III) and Cu(II), most preferably Fe(II).

The metal ion is present in the form of a salt or a complex having a ligand. Simple salts include sulfates and halides such as ferrous sulfate and mixed salts such as ammonium ferrous sulfate. Preferably, the metal is present in the form of a complex having a ligand. In the context of the present invention, a ligand is a molecule comprising more than one (preferably 2 to 4, and most preferably 2) organic groups coordinated to a metal ion. The groups for coordination with metal ions are COO ^- , OH, ketones, esters, primary amines, secondary amines and tertiary amines, preferably COO ^- , tertiary amines and OH, most preferably COO ^- And OH. Polyphenols are not allowed as polydentate ligands. The ligand-metal complex can be preformed prior to addition to the shampoo (eg, ferrous gluconate). Preferably, the molar ratio of iron ions to ligand is from 1:1 to 1:4, more preferably from 1:1.5 to 1:2.5.

Preferably, the metal ion is in the form of a salt and/or complex that is soluble in the aqueous solution at the pH of the blend. Most preferably, the metal ion in the form of the salt and/or complex has a solubility in demineralized water at a pH of the blend of greater than 0.1 g/l.

The ability of a ligand to interact with a metal ion, Mn ⁺ , may be defined by its pM ^{n +} value, where pM ^{n +} =- log ₁₀ [M ^{n +} ] is _free

And the ligand concentration is 10 ^-5 mol / liter, the total metal ion concentration is 10 ^-6 mol / liter and [M ^{n +} ] _free is the molar concentration of uncomplexed metal ions. Preferably, the ligand used has a lower pM ^{n +} than gallic acid. Preferably, the pM ^{n + is} greater than 8, more preferably greater than 10. Most preferably, the pM ⁿ⁺ value is measured in demineralized water having a chloride salt of the metal ion (preferably ferric chloride) at pH = 4.

Preferably, the polyaminocarboxylic acid is present in an amount less than 1/30 of the weight % of the primary ligand, preferably, it is not present in the shampoo. A polyaminocarboxylic acid is a compound containing two or more amines bonded to two or more carboxylic acid groups through a carbon atom. 2,2',2",2"'-(ethane-1,2-diyldinitro)tetraacetic acid (EDTA) is a polyaminocarboxylic acid. Diethyltriamine pentaacetic acid is a polyaminocarboxylic acid. Ethylenediamine- N,N' -disuccinic acid is a polyaminocarboxylic acid.

Most preferably, the system is selected from the group consisting of gluconate, tartrate, and ascorbic blood. Acid salts, citrates and lactates. Particularly preferred are gluconate, lactate or ascorbate.

The most preferred ones are ferrous gluconate and ferrous lactate, the most preferred being ferrous gluconate.

Slurry citrus fiber suspension

The composition of the present invention comprises at least 0.1% by weight (preferably at least 0.15% by weight, more preferably at least 0.2% by weight) of citrus fibres of all of the first composition, the citrus fibres being mechanically slurried and Swell in water. Most preferably, the composition comprises from 0.16 to 0.35 wt% of the pulped citrus fibres of the total composition.

Citrus fibres are derived from citrus fruits; more advantageously, they comprise the skin of lemon and/or lime. The citrus fruit peel is made into a pulp by subjecting to high shear treatment, and the slurried material is referred to as pulped citrus fiber. Such slurried fibers are capable of absorbing and combining at least 15 times their own weight of water, preferably at least 20 times, even up to 30 times.

The suspending agent is a pulped citrus fiber that has been mechanically treated, the mechanical treatment comprising the step of high intensity mixing in water and the material thus absorbing at least 15 times its own dry weight of water, preferably at least 20 times Water of its own weight to expand the substance. It may be derived from a fruit processing waste stream by an environmentally friendly process. This makes it more maintainable than traditional suspending agents. In addition, it does not require additional chemicals to assist in its dispersion, and it can be made into a structured premix to provide flexibility in the process.

Citrus fruits are a preferred source of fiber because of their large amount of peel To provide a substance having the desired water absorption capacity. The best fruits are lemon and lime because the mechanical pulp produced has a natural pH of about 3.5, which allows for the use of low levels of potassium sorbate as an effective preservative for the premix to be dispersed prior to the cleaning solution.

In a preferred method, the citrus fibre is processed to produce a premix, preferably in combination with a preservative, to mechanically slurry the citrus fibre. This is accomplished by adding dry powdered citrus fibres in water at least 15 times their own weight and dispersing under very high shear to further break the citrus fibres and begin the hydration or expansion process. The mechanically treated citrus fibres are contacted with water for a sufficient period of time to allow them to expand due to complete hydration. This process can be hours. We have found that it is advantageous to keep the pulped citrus fibres separate from the surfactant until it is fully expanded. This avoids the possibility of the surfactant competing with citrus pulp fibers for water. This is even more problematic as the total surfactant concentration increases. This premix slurry expansion process appears to be particularly advantageous when the surfactant level in the composition is 25% by weight or greater. This very high shear force may be provided by a high intensity mixer (such as a Silverson mixer) or, worse, by a high pressure homogenizer. The homogenizer is poor because it may have problems with citrus fiber blockage.

The amount of citrus fiber slurried in the premix is preferably from 1 to 5% by weight. More preferably, 2 to 4% by weight. Depending on the processing equipment used, there may be an upper limit of implementation of 3.3 to 3.5% by weight, since it is advantageous to have excess water to adequately hydrate the pulped citrus fibre.

Preferably, if the composition contains less than 0.2 weight of the composition The amount of the polyacrylic acid-based suspension agent is more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.05% by weight.

Polyphenol

Preferably, the polyphenol-containing composition is at least 0.01% by weight of polyphenol in the aqueous polyphenol solution. Preferably, the polyphenol composition comprises from 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight (more preferably from 0.3% by weight to 3% by weight) of the polyphenol of the total composition.

The pH of the aqueous polyphenol solution is preferably from 2 to 7, more preferably from 3 to 6, as measured using a calibrated pH meter.

The polyphenol is selected from the group consisting of gallic acid, methyl gallate, ethyl gallate, propyl gallate and mixtures thereof. Propionate gallate is a particularly good one.

Preferably, the polyphenol is extracted from a natural source. Preferably, it does not contain any active oxidase and has been heat treated to destroy any enzymatic activity.

In order to avoid oxidation of the polyphenols by air, the composition is preferably stored in a closed container, preferably a bottle closed with an airtight lid.

Preferably, the aqueous polyphenol solution contains water as a main component. Supplementary ingredients may be present to, for example, increase viscosity, aroma, and aid in solubilization of polyphenols. Solubilizing ingredients include organic solvents and surfactants.

Preferably, if the polyphenol-containing composition is a conditioning composition, it is more preferably a rinse-off conditioning composition. A particularly preferred condition is that the composition is applied after shampooing.

If a polyphenol containing a protonated organic acid contains polyphenols, The molar concentration of polyphenols is preferably higher than the protonated organic acid. In this case, the protonated organic acid does not include polyphenols.

Preferably, the French hardness of the water used to formulate all of the compositions is from 0 to 36 degrees, more preferably from 0 to 24 degrees, most preferably from 0 to 2 degrees.

Preferably, the water used to formulate all of the compositions contains less than 1 ppm chlorine-based bleach, such as chlorine dioxide or hypochlorite. Optimally, less than 50 ppb.

Product form

The compositions of the present invention are typically "wash-off" compositions which are applied to the hair and then rinsed off.

Shampoo composition

The first composition comprising a metal salt/citrus fiber is preferably a shampoo composition.

The shampoo composition of the present invention is usually aqueous, that is, it has water or an aqueous solution or a liquid crystalline liquid phase as its main component. Suitably, the composition will comprise from 50% to 98% by weight (preferably from 60% to 90% by weight) water, based on the total weight of the composition.

Anionic cleaning surfactant

The shampoo compositions according to the present invention will typically comprise one or more anionic cleansing surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.

Examples of suitable anionic cleansing surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alkyl nonyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates , alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, especially sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono- , di- and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and sulfonium groups typically contain from 8 to 18 (preferably from 10 to 16) carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulfate, alkyl ether sulfosuccinate, alkyl ether phosphate, and alkyl ether carboxylic acid and salts thereof may contain from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule. .

Typical anionic cleansing surfactants for use in the shampoo compositions of the present invention include sodium oleyl succinate, sodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, lauryl ether sulfo amber Sodium, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzenesulfonate, sodium cocoyl hydroxyethanesulfonate, sodium lauryl hydroxyethanesulfonate , lauryl ether carboxylic acid and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate.

Preferred anionic cleansing surfactants are sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate (n) EO (where n is 1 to 3), sodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate (n) EO (where n is 1 to 3) ), ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (n) EO (where n is 1 to 3), sodium cocoyl hydroxyethanesulfonate and lauryl ether carboxylic acid (n) EO (where n is 10 to 20).

Any mixture of the foregoing anionic cleansing surfactants may also be suitable.

The total weight of the anionic cleansing surfactant in the shampoo compositions of the present invention is generally from 0.5% to 45% by weight, preferably from 1.5% by weight to 35 wt%, more preferably 5 wt% to 20 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Other ingredients

Alternatively, the shampoo compositions of the present invention may contain other ingredients as described below to enhance performance and/or consumer acceptability.

Auxiliary surfactant

The composition can include an auxiliary surfactant to assist in imparting aesthetic, physical or cleaning properties to the composition.

An example of an auxiliary surfactant is a nonionic surfactant which may be included in an amount of from 0.5% by weight to 8% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In the composition.

For example, may be included representative nonionic surfactant in shampoo compositions of the present invention include aliphatic (C ₈ -C ₁₈₎ primary or secondary linear or branched chain alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides (usually It is a condensation product of ethylene oxide and usually has 6 to 30 oxirane groups.

Other representative nonionic surfactants include mono- or di-alkyl alcohol decylamines. Examples include coco mono- or diethanolamine and cocoyl monoisopropanolamine.

Further nonionic surfactants which may be included in the shampoo compositions of the present invention are alkyl polyglycosides (APGs). Typically, APG is a nonionic surfactant comprising an alkyl group that is attached (optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more sugar groups. Preferred APGs are defined by the formula: RO-(G) _n wherein R is a branched or straight chain alkyl group which may be saturated or unsaturated and G is a sugar group.

R may represent an average alkyl chain length of from about C ₅ to about C ₂₀ .

Preferably, R represents an average alkyl chain length of from about C ₈ to about C ₁₂ .

Most preferably, the R value is between about 9.5 and about 10.5. G may be selected from a C ₅ or C ₆ monosaccharide residue, and is preferably a glucoside. G may be selected from the group consisting of glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose, and derivatives thereof. Preferably, G is glucose.

The degree of polymerization, n, may be from about 1 to about 10, or greater. Preferably, the value of n falls between about 1.1 and about 2. Most preferably, the value of n falls between about 1.3 and about 1.5.

Alkyl polyglycosides suitable for use in the present invention are commercially available and include, for example, those identified as: Oramix NS10 ex Seppic; Plantaren 1200 and Plantaren 2000 ex Henkel.

The other may comprise a nonionic surfactant derived from a sugar is included in the composition of the present invention: C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ N- alkyl (C ₁ -C ₆₎ polyhydroxy fatty acid acyl amine, such as, for example, WO 92 06154 And C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ N-methyl glucosamine as described in US Pat. No. 5,194,639, and N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid guanamine, such as C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ N-(3-methoxy propyl Glucosamine.

A preferred example of the co-surfactant is an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant which may range from 0.5% to about 8% by weight, preferably from 1% to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Be included in the composition in.

Examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants include alkylamine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidinopropyl betaines, alkyl sultaines, alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyls. Amines, alkyl amphoacetates, alkyl amphoteric propionates, alkyl amphoglycosates, alkyl amidinopropyl hydroxysultaines, mercapto taurates and bismuth bran An amine salt wherein the alkyl and sulfonium groups have from 8 to 19 carbon atoms. Typical amphoteric surfactants and zwitterionic surfactants useful in the shampoos of the present invention include laurylamine oxide, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, cocoamidopropyl Betaine and sodium cocoamphoacetate.

A particularly preferred amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is cocoamidopropyl betaine.

Any mixture of the aforementioned amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may also be suitable. A preferred mixture is a mixture of cocoamidopropyl betaine and other amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants as described above. Preferred other amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are sodium cocoamphoacetate.

The total weight of the surfactant (including any auxiliary surfactant, and/or any emulsifier) in the shampoo composition of the present invention is usually from 1% by weight to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 40% by weight. More preferably, it is 10% by weight to 25% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

Cationic deposition polymer

Cationic polymer is used in the shampoo composition of the present invention for enhancing sinking The preferred component of the product performance.

Suitable cationic polymers may be cationically substituted homopolymers or may be formed from two or more types of monomers. The weight average (Mw) molecular weight of the polymer is typically from 100,000 to 2 million auricular. The polymer will have a cationic nitrogen-containing group, such as a quaternary ammonium or protonated amine group, or a mixture thereof. If the molecular weight of the polymer is too low, the conditioning effect is poor. If it is too high, there may be a problem that the high elongation viscosity causes the wire to be drawn when the composition is poured out.

The cationic nitrogen-containing group is typically present as a substituent on a portion of all of the monomer units of the cationic polymer. Thus, when the polymer is not a homopolymer, it may contain a spacer non-cationic monomer unit. Such polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Guide, Third Edition. The ratio of cationic monomer units to non-cationic monomer units is selected to produce a polymer having a cationic charge density (typically 0.2 to 3.0 meq/g) in the desired range. Suitably, the cationic charge density of the polymer is determined by the Kjeldahl method for determining nitrogen as described in the chemical test in the U.S. Pharmacopoeia.

Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, vinyl monomers having a cationic amine or quaternary ammonium function with water soluble spacer monomers such as (meth) acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl (meth) acrylamide a copolymer of an alkyl (meth) acrylate, a vinyl caprolactone, and a vinyl pyrrolidine). The alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have a C1-C7 alkyl group, more preferably a C1-3 alkyl group. Other suitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol, and ethylene glycol.

The cationic amine can be a primary, secondary or tertiary amine depending on the particular species and pH of the composition. In general, preferred are secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary amines.

The amine substituted vinyl monomer and amine can be polymerized in the form of an amine which is then converted to ammonium by quaternization.

The cationic polymer may comprise a mixture of monomer units derived from amine and/or quaternary ammonium substituted monomers and/or compatible spacer monomers.

Suitable cationic polymers include, for example: - polymers containing cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium, including, for example, dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride homopolymers and acrylamide and dimethyl diallyl Copolymer of ammonium chloride (called polyquaternium 6 and polyquaternium 7 in industrial (CTFA), respectively); homopolymer and copolymer of unsaturated carboxylic acid having 3 to 5 carbon atoms A mineral acid salt of an amino-alkyl ester (as described in U.S. Patent 4,009,256); a cationic polyacrylamide (as described in WO 95/22311).

Other cationic polymers that can be used include cationic polysaccharide polymers such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, and cationic goose gum derivatives.

A cationic polysaccharide polymer suitable for use in the composition of the present invention comprises a monomer of the formula: AO-[RN ⁺ (R ¹ )(R ² )(R ³ )X ^- ], wherein: A is an anhydrous glucose residue Base, such as starch or cellulose anhydrous glucose residues. R is an alkylene group, an oxyalkylene group, a polyoxyalkylene group or a hydroxyalkyl group, or a combination thereof. R ¹ , R ² and R ³ independently represent an alkyl, aryl, alkaryl, aralkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl group, each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms. The total number of carbon atoms of each cationic moiety (i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R ¹ , R ² and R ³ ) is preferably about 20 or less, and X is an anionic counter ion.

Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with a lauryl dimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to as polyquaternium 24 in the industry (CTFA). These materials are available from Amerchol, Inc., for example under the trade name Polymer LM-200.

Other suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418) and etherified cellulose and starch copolymers (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent 3,958,581). ).

A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can be used is a cationic goose gum derivative, if icosyl hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (available from the JAGUAR product line of Rhodia). Examples of such materials are JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C14, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 and JAGUAR C16 Jaguar CHT, and JAGUAR C162.

It is possible to use any mixture of the above cationic polymers.

The cationic polymer in the shampoo composition of the present invention is generally present in an amount of from 0.01 to 5% by weight based on the total of the cationic polymer, preferably from 0.05 to 1%, more preferably from 0.08 to 0.5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. meter).

Hair conditioner composition

One part of the kit may be a conditioner for treating hair (usually after shampooing) and then rinsing. Such hair conditioner compositions preferably comprise polyphenols.

Such hair conditioner compositions will typically comprise one or more conditioning surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.

Suitable conditioning surfactants include those selected from cationic surfactants used alone or in combination. Preferably, the cationic surfactant has the formula N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ R ⁴ wherein R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently (C ₁ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl or benzyl. Preferably, one, two or three of R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently (C ₄ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl groups, while the other R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ groups are independently Is (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl or benzyl. More preferably, one or two of R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently (C ₆ to C ₃₀ )alkyl, and the other R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ groups are (C). ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl or benzyl group. Optionally, the alkyl group may comprise one or more esters (-OCO- or COO-) and/or other ether (-O-) linkages within the alkyl chain. The alkyl group can be optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. The alkyl group may be linear or branched, and may be ring-shaped in terms of an alkyl group having 3 or more carbon atoms. The alkyl group can be saturated or can contain one or more carbon-carbon double bonds (e.g., oleyl). The alkyl group on the alkyl chain can be selectively ethoxylated with one or more ethyleneoxy groups.

Suitable cationic surfactants for use in the conditioner composition according to the present invention include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetracapine Ammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethyl Ammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, mercaptodimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, dodecyldimethylammonium chloride, di Octadecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, tallow trimethyl ammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow dimethyl ammonium chloride (eg Arquad 2HT/75 from Akzo Nobel), coco trimethoate Ammonium chloride, PEG-2-oleyl ammonium chloride and its corresponding hydroxide. Further suitable cationic surfactants include those having the CTFA designations quaternium-5, quaternium-31 and quaternium-18. Any mixture of the foregoing may also be suitable. A cationic surfactant which is particularly useful in the conditioners according to the invention is cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, which is commercially available, for example, from GENAMIN CTAC, from Hoechst Celanese. Another cationic surfactant which is particularly useful in the conditioners according to the invention is behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, which may, for example, be GENAMIN KDMP, available from Clariant.

Another example of a suitable class of cationic surfactants that can be used in the present invention (either alone or in combination with one or more other cationic surfactants) is the combination of (i) and (ii) below: (i) corresponds to Amidinoamine of the formula (I): Wherein R ¹ is a hydrocarbyl chain having 10 or more carbon atoms, R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from hydrocarbyl chains having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and m is an integer from 1 to about 10; and (ii) An acid.

As used herein, the term hydrocarbyl chain refers to an alkyl or alkenyl chain.

Preferred amidinoamine compounds are those corresponding to formula (I) wherein R ¹ is a hydrocarbyl residue having from about 11 to about 24 carbon atoms, and R ² and R ³ are each independently a hydrocarbyl residue, preferably It is an alkyl group having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, and m is an integer from 1 to about 4.

Preferably, R ² and R ³ are methyl or ethyl groups.

Preferably, m is 2 or 3, i.e., an ethyl or propyl group is extended.

Preferred guanamine amines for use herein include stearylamine-propyldimethylamine, stearylamine propyldiethylamine, stearylamine ethyldiethylamine, stearylamine Ethyl dimethylamine, palmitosylpropyl dimethylamine, palmitosylpropyldiethylamine, palmitosylethyldiethylamine, palmitosylethyl dimethylamine, hawthorn Aminopropyl dimethylamine, behenylpropyldiethylamine, behenylethyldiethylamine, behenylethyl dimethylamine, peanut melamine propyl dimethylamine , peanut amidinopropyl diethylamine, peanut decyl ethyl diethylamine, peanut decyl ethyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred guanamine amines for use herein are stearyl propyl dimethyl dimethylamine, stearyl amide ethyl diethylamine and mixtures thereof.

Commercially available guanamine amines for use herein include: LEXAMINE S-13 available from Inolex (Philadelphia, PA, USA) and AMIDOAMINE MSP available from Nikko (Tokyo, Japan), available from Nikko The obtained stearylamine ethyldiethylamine (trade name: AMIDOAMINE S), behenylpropyl dimethylamine available from Croda (North Humberside, UK) (trade name) For INCROMINE BB) and available from Scher (United States) , Clifton, NJ, has obtained a variety of guanamine amines (trade name SCHERCODINE series).

Protonated acids may be present. The acid can be any organic or inorganic acid capable of protonating the guanamine amine in the conditioner composition. Suitable acids for use herein include hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the acid is selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The primary action of the acid is to protonate the guanamine amine in the hair treatment composition to form a tertiary amine salt (TAS) in situ in the hair treatment composition. An effective TAS is a non-permanent quaternary ammonium or pseudoquaternary ammonium type cationic surfactant.

Suitably, the amount of acid included is sufficient to protonate more than 95 mole % (293 K) of the guanamine amine present.

In the conditioner of the present invention, the amount of the cationic surfactant is usually in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight of the composition, more preferably 0.05% to 7.5%, most preferably 0.1% to 5%. .

The hair conditioner of the present invention is usually also incorporated into a fatty alcohol. It is particularly advantageous to combine the use of a fatty alcohol and a cationic surfactant in the conditioning composition as this results in the formation of a lamellar phase in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.

Representative fatty alcohols contain from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Fatty alcohols are compounds which usually contain a linear alkyl group. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. The benefit of using these materials also lies in their ability to promote the overall conditioning properties of the compositions of the present invention.

The amount of the fatty alcohol in the conditioner of the present invention is usually in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight of the composition, preferably 0.1% to 8%, more preferably 0.2% to 7%, most preferably It is 0.3% to 6%. The weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is suitably from 1:1 to 1:10, preferably from 1:1.5 to 1:8, ideally from 1:2 to 1:5. If the weight ratio of the cationic surfactant to the fatty alcohol is too high, the composition may cause irritation to the eyes. If it is too low, it may cause some consumers to feel the squeaking of the hair.

Other conditioning agents

The compositions of the present invention may incorporate other conditioning agents to optimize wet and dry conditioning benefits.

The compositions of the present invention may contain emulsified droplets of a polyxanthene conditioning agent to enhance conditioning performance. Polyoxygen conditioning agents may be present in shampoos or conditioners.

Suitable polyoxymethylenes include polydiorganooxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes of the CTFA designation dimethicone. Also suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention (particularly shampoos and conditioners) are dimethyl methoxyalkanes having a hydroxyl end group, the CTFA designation being dimethiconol. Also suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are polyoxyxene rubbers having a slight degree of crosslinking as described in WO 96/31188.

The viscosity of the emulsified polyoxynium itself (not the emulsion or the final hair conditioning composition) is usually at least 10,000 centistokes at 25 ° C, and the viscosity of the polyoxymethylene itself is preferably at least 60,000 centistokes, preferably At least 500,000 centistokes, ideally at least 1,000,000 centistokes. For ease of formulation, preferably, the viscosity does not exceed 10 ⁹ centistokes.

The emulsified polyfluorene oxide used in the shampoo compositions of the present invention will typically have an average polyoxyn droplet size in the composition of less than 30 microns, preferably less than 20 microns, more preferably less than 10 microns, ideally It is 0.01 to 1 micron. Polyoxyxide emulsions having an average polyoxane droplet size of 50.15 microns are generally referred to as microemulsions.

The emulsified polyfluorene used in the conditioner composition of the present invention will typically have a size in the composition of less than 30, preferably less than 20, more preferably less than 15. Preferably, the average polyoxyn droplets are greater than 0.5 microns, more preferably greater than 1 micron, and desirably from 2 to 8 microns.

The particle size of the polyoxyn oxide can be measured by laser light scattering techniques, for example using a 2600D particle size analyzer from a Malvern instrument.

Examples of suitable preformed emulsions include Xiameter MEM 1785 and Microemulsion DC2-1865 available from Dow Corning. These are emulsions/microemulsions of polydimethyl methoxy alcohol. The crosslinked polyoxyl rubber can also be obtained in the form of a pre-emulsified, which is advantageous for ease of formulation.

A more preferred polyoxo type included in the shampoos and conditioners of the present invention is an amine functional polyfluorene. "Amino functional polyoxyl" refers to polyfluorene containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group or quaternary ammonium group. Examples of suitable amino-functional polyoxyxides include: polyfluorene oxides of the CTFA designation "Amino-terminated polydimethyloxane". Specific examples of amine functional polyfluorenes suitable for use in the present invention are the amine polyoxyxides DC2-8220, DC2-8166 and DC2-8566 (both from Dow Corning).

Suitable quaternized polyoxyl polymers are described in EP-A-0 530 974. A preferred quaternized polyoxyl polymer is K3474 from Goldschmidt.

Also suitable are emulsions of amino-functional polyoxyphthalic acid oils having nonionic and/or cationic surfactants.

Preformed amine functional polyoxyxides may also be obtained from suppliers of polyoxyxides such as Dow Corning and General Electric. Specific examples include DC939 cationic emulsions and nonionic emulsions DC2-7224, DC2-8467, DC2-8177, and DC2-8154 (all from Dow Corning).

Some shampoos are preferably used in combination with amine and non-amino functional polyoxyxides.

Preferably, the total amount of polyfluorene oxide is from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight of the total composition, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, and most preferably from 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight, especially Used in shampoo compositions.

Other selective ingredients

The compositions of the present invention may contain other ingredients for increased performance and/or consumer acceptance. These ingredients include fragrances, dyes and pigments, pH adjusters, pearlizing agents or opacifiers, viscosity modifiers, preservatives and natural hair nutrients such as plants, fruit extracts, sugar derivatives and amino acids.

Instructions

The method of dyeing hair comprises the step of sequentially applying the following composition to the hair in any order: (i) a first aqueous composition comprising a) at least 0.01% by weight of a metal ion in the form of a salt and/or a complex, wherein The metal is selected from the group consisting of iron, copper, zinc, aluminum, manganese, and mixtures thereof; and b) a suspending agent comprising at least 0.1% by weight of citrus fibers of the total composition, the citrus fiber The slurry is mechanically slurried and expanded in water, (ii) a second aqueous second composition comprising at least 0.01% by weight polyphenol.

Preferably, the composition of the present invention is applied to wet hair, and thus the step of moisturizing the hair prior to application of the composition of the present invention is necessary.

Preferably, the method comprises the step of rinsing the hair between applying the shampoo composition (i) and the second composition (ii). An excellent condition is if the hair is rinsed after application of the two compositions of the invention.

Other conditioning and/or styling products may be applied as part of the dyeing process.

The amount of each composition applied to the hair is preferably from 5 g to 100 g.

Preferably, the compositions are held on the hair for from 5 to 600 seconds, more preferably from 10 to 300 seconds.

Preferably, the French hardness for wetting and rinsing the hair of the hair is from 0 to 36 degrees, more preferably from 0 to 24 degrees, most preferably from 0 to 2 degrees.

Preferably, the water used to moisturize and rinse the hair contains less than 1 ppm Chlorine-based bleach (such as chlorine dioxide or hypochlorite). Optimally, less than 50 ppb.

The invention will now be illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. Examples of the invention are illustrated by numbers, and comparative examples are illustrated by letters.

Shampoo

Quality standard (q.s.) ph5-7; viscosity 5000-9000cPs

conditioner

The conditioner has a creamy/pink appearance. Product pH specification: 4.0-5.0

Shampoo stability assessment

Example 1 - Freshly made blends appear green in appearance. There was no phase separation after storage at 45 ° C for 12 hours and after storage at 45 ° C for 12 weeks.

Example A - Freshly made blends appear green in appearance. It was phase-separated after storage for 12 hours at 45 ° C; a dark green layer appeared in the upper layer. After storage at 45 ° C for 1 week, the blend separated into a dark green layer and a solid precipitate at the bottom of the can.

Claims (15)

A hair dye kit comprising: (i) a first aqueous composition comprising a) at least 0.01% by weight of a metal ion in the form of a salt and/or a complex, wherein the metal is selected from the group consisting of iron, a mixture of copper, zinc, aluminum, manganese and the like; and b) a suspending agent comprising at least 0.1% by weight of citrus fibres of the total composition, the citrus fibres being mechanically slurried and expanded in water, (ii) a second aqueous second composition comprising at least 0.01% by weight of polyphenols selected from the group consisting of gallic acid, methyl gallate, ethyl gallate, gallic acid Propyl esters and mixtures thereof. For example, the kit of claim 1 wherein the metal is in the form of a metal composite. The kit of claim 1, wherein the metal ion is selected from the group consisting of Fe(II), Fe(III), Cu(II), and mixtures thereof. For example, the kit of claim 3, wherein the metal ion is Fe(II). A kit according to claim 1 wherein the complex comprises a gluconate, lactate or ascorbate ligand. A kit according to claim 1 wherein the metal salt and/or complex is ferrous (II) gluconate. Such as the kit of claim 1 of the scope, wherein the metal ion The content is from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight of the first composition. The kit of claim 1, wherein the polyphenol content is from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight of the total second polyphenol composition. The kit of claim 1, wherein the iron-containing composition further comprises an anionic cleaning surfactant. For example, in the kit of claim 1, wherein the polyphenol is present in the conditioning composition. The kit of claim 1, wherein the citrus fiber is at least 0.15% by weight of the first composition. The kit of claim 1, wherein the citrus fiber obtained from the pulp is derived from lemon or lime. A kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the first composition further comprises at least 0.1% by weight of a cationic deposition polymer of the total composition. A method of dyeing hair comprising the step of sequentially applying the composition described in the scope of the aforementioned patent application to the hair in any order. The method of claim 14, further comprising the step of rinsing the hair between the applied compositions.