RU2836338C1 - Cosmetic cream for dry skin care - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetics.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to cosmetics and concerns dry skin care products. Cosmetic cream for dry skin care and restoration of its natural microbiome contains, wt. %: isopropyl palmitate 1.000-5.000, dimethicone 1.000-4.000, mineral oil 2.000-8.000, confectionary fat 2.000-6.000, ceteareth-20 0.500-3.000, glyceryl stearate 1.500-4.000, high-molecular alcohols 1.000-5.000, distilled glycerine 2.000-8.000, xanthan gum 0.100-1.500, ammonium polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate 0.500-2.000, lactic acid lysate 0.010-1.000, bifidobacteria lysate 0.010-1.000, propionate bacteria lysate 0.010-1.000, disodium salt of EDTA 2-aqueous 0.100-0.500, butylhydroxytoluene 0.010-0.100, allantoin 0.100-1.000, sodium hyaluronate 0.001-0.200, vitamin A (retinol palmitate) 0.001-0.200, vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate) 0.001-0.200, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate 0.001-0.200, jojoba oil 0.100-3.000, phenoxyethanol – up to 0.900, ethylhexylglycerol 0.100-1.000, odorant 0.100-1.000, drinking water – up to 100.00.

EFFECT: invention provides complex care for dry skin, moisturizing and softening effects.

1 cl, 1 ex

Description

The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, namely to cosmetic products intended for the care of dry skin.

Dry skin is the most common skin type and requires systematic and thorough care. Dry skin is thinner and more sensitive, prone to flaking and red spots, and loses elasticity and firmness faster than normal skin.

A current trend in cosmetic products for dry skin care is cosmetic products for restoring the skin's natural microbiome. This trend is poorly represented on the Russian market, but is in high demand.

The skin microbe is the second human genome, a system of microorganisms on the surface of the human body, responsible for immunity and protection of the skin from external aggressive factors: potential allergens and pathogenic microorganisms. The skin microbe is our living shield, another full-fledged barrier layer of the epidermis. The condition of the skin is largely the result of not just the presence or prevalence of certain strains of microorganisms on it, but the balance between them. Violations of this balance can be provoked by various factors, and the use of products capable of restoring the lost balance and maintaining it is becoming one of the significant tasks of modern cosmetology [1].

The components of the skin microbiome are divided into neutral, beneficial and pathogenic. The former, with a lack of the latter, can transform into pathogenic (parasitic) and cause some diseases. Disruption of the ecosystem triggers the development of chronic skin diseases, such as eczema, rosacea, atopic and seborrheic dermatitis, as well as allergic and infectious diseases. To balance it, postbiotics are used, which are widely used not only to support the intestinal microflora, but also as part of skin care formulas, scientists came to this conclusion after studying the microbiota [2].

Probiotic bacteria lysates are universal and multi-purpose components for skin and hair health, which are products of physical and enzymatic breakdown of probiotic bacteria mixed with their metabolites. Probiotic bacteria lysates are used in cosmetics for quantitative and qualitative impact on the composition of the skin microbiome, as well as activation of the dermal structures.

The use of aggressive surfactants for skin cleansing, exposure to urban smog, solar radiation, uncontrolled use of acid and enzyme peels in home care lead to changes in the composition of the microbiome and the loss of some of its functions.

By normalizing the composition of the microbiome, lysates reduce skin sensitivity, eliminate allergic reactions, and significantly reduce such phenomena as dryness and flaking. Metabolites of probiotic bacteria, which are part of the signaling system of dermal cells, activate their activity, which leads to an even relief and tone of the skin, and an increase in its elasticity [3].

Lysates of probiotic bacteria create an optimal environment on the surface of the facial skin for the reproduction of normal microflora, thereby restoring its functions, and an unfavorable environment for the reproduction of pathogenic microorganisms. Lysates contain peptides with low molecular weight, free amino acids, polysaccharides, some AHA acids, a large number of B vitamins and are a universal probiotic additive to cosmetic products.

Cosmetics containing lysates moisturize the skin, reduce flaking and irritation, even out the texture and tone, and reduce signs of aging. Such cosmetics have a beneficial effect on dry and sensitive skin, stimulating the skin's immunity and activating the resources of the dermis and epidermis [4].

The authors' goal was to create a highly effective cosmetic cream for dry skin care and restoration of its natural microbiome, with moisturizing and softening effects. At the same time, the product should have a soft consistency, be easy to apply to the skin and be quickly absorbed.

The problem is solved by the composition of the claimed cosmetic product, which combines the components of the oil phase: isopropyl palmitate, dimethicone, mineral oil, confectionery fat; emulsifiers and structure-forming components: ceteareth-20, glyceryl stearate and high molecular weight alcohols; moisturizing component - glycerin; thickeners: xanthan gum and ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate; preservative - phenoxyethanol; humectant and preservative enhancer ethylhexylglycerin; chelating agent disodium EDTA dihydrate; antioxidant butylhydroxytoluene; biologically active and caring additives - vitamin A, vitamin E, allantoin, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium hyaluronate, jojoba oil, bifidobacteria lysate, latobacteria lysate, propionic acid bacteria lysate; fragrance and water in the following ratio of components, wt. %:

Isopropyl palmitate 1,000-5,000 Dimethicone 1,000-4,000 Mineral oil 2,000-8,000 Confectionery fat 2,000-6,000 Ceteareth-20 0,500-3,000 Glyceryl stearate 1,500-4,000 High molecular weight alcohols 1,000-5,000 Distilled glycerin 2,000-8,000 Xanthan gum 0.100-1.500 Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate 0,500-2,000 Lactobacillus lysate 0.010-1.000 Bifidobacterium lysate 0.010-1.000 Propionibacterium lysate 0.010-1.000 Disodium EDTA dihydrate 0.100-0.500 Butylated hydroxytoluene 0.010-0.100 Allantoin 0.100-1.000 Sodium hyaluronate 0.001-0.200 Vitamin A (retinyl palmitate) 0.001-0.200 Vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate) 0.001-0.200 Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 0.001-0.200 Jojoba oil 0.100-3.000 Phenoxyethanol up to 0.900 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.100-1.000 Fragrance 0.100-1.000 Drinking water up to 100.00

The claimed cosmetic cream is a direct emulsion (oil in water).

Let us give a description of the main raw materials used:

Isopropyl palmitate is an ester of isopropyl alcohol and palmitic acid, has a softening effect, and is used as a fat and plasticizing component in cosmetics [5].

Dimethicone is used in cosmetics as a component that improves the structure and compatibility of various ingredients in the formulation, and has a mild protective effect on the skin [5].

Mineral oil - used to soften, lubricate and dissolve other ingredients. Helps retain moisture in the skin, often used in moisturizers [5].

Confectionery fat is a mixture of palm and sunflower oils, used in various cosmetics as an ingredient that has a softening, protective and restorative effect on the skin, helps strengthen the barrier functions of the skin due to its rich fatty acid composition (palmitic, oleic, linoleic, stearic, myristic, caprylic, capric).

Ceteareth-20 is an emulsifier, a polymer based on cetearyl glycol, a non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier, an emollient, and a surfactant. Reduces the surface tension of liquids, improves softening of skin and hair [5].

Glyceryl stearate is an ester of glycerol and stearic acid, an emulsifier and dispersant in creams, as well as a softener, thickener and film former, obtained from plant materials or by biotechnology. It can be used in cosmetics of the "natural" direction [5].

High molecular weight alcohols are a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols, a structure-forming agent and emollient in emulsions (softener). In cosmetics, it is used as an emulsifier, thickener, and structural base for other ingredients [5].

Glycerin - 1, 2, 3-propanetriol, a trihydric alcohol, is used in almost any cosmetic product as a quick skin softening substance. Glycerin in small concentrations has a softening effect on the skin, moisturizes it. There are studies that the glycerin molecule "works" as a signaling molecule and promotes the normal life process of epidermal cells [6].

Xanthan gum is a corn sugar gum, a polysaccharide of microbiological origin, used as a thickener. Xanthan gum molecules adsorb water to form a three-dimensional network of double helices of xanthan, similar in structure to gels, but with lower viscosity. Emulsifier and binding agent, emulsion stabilizer [5].

Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate polymer, a thickener for oil-in-water emulsions, imparts a high yield point to the composition. In addition to rheological aspects, it has pleasant sensory properties and is not sticky.

Lactobacillus lysate - moisturizes the skin and improves its tone, most effectively normalizes microflora, enhances the skin's ability to regenerate, stimulates the natural synthesis of collagen and elastin, prevents swelling and effectively restores cellular immunity. Lactobacillus lysate naturally increases the production of enzymes responsible for the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, improving the skin's moisturizing activity [7].

Bifidobacterium lysate - regulates the composition of microflora on the surface of the epidermis and increases the content of ceramides in the stratum corneum, increases local immunity of the facial skin, greatly increases resistance to the effects of pathogenic microbes, has an anti-inflammatory effect, stimulates the natural mechanism of restoration of dermal structures after exposure to UV radiation and negative temperatures. Bifidobacterium lysate restores the water-lipid protective layer of the skin, improving its barrier, protective functions, prevents premature aging, improves relief, increases tone, makes the skin smooth, elastic and toned [4].

Propionic acid bacteria lysate - has antioxidant and antimutagenic activity, has a pronounced antibacterial effect, contains a large amount of B vitamins, antioxidants that protect the skin from oxidative stress (a pathological condition caused by the presence of excess free radical particles in the body), provides protection of the skin from free radicals, slows down its aging [4].

Allantoin - 5-ureidohydantoin - a powerful effective anti-irritant, non-toxic, effective in low concentrations. It has a keratolytic effect, softens the stratum corneum, promoting the removal of dead cells and effectively preventing the formation of inflammatory elements. Allantoin has a pronounced effect on the regeneration of skin cells, stimulates the healing of the skin by promoting the restoration of intact granulation tissue, which is used in the creation of cosmetics for the care of chapped, cracked skin. The amphoteric properties of allantoin make the keratolytic effect long-lasting. It has antioxidant activity, has a softening and effective moisturizing effect on the skin: increases the water content in the intercellular matrix, and also creates a feeling of smoothness of the skin [5].

Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid; in water it forms viscous, colorless, slightly opalescent gels, pH 6.0-7.5. It promotes tissue regeneration without scarring, makes the skin softer and smoother, stimulates cell migration and proliferation, and exhibits high moisturizing properties. It is used as a moisturizing, protective, and gelling ingredient in moisturizing, regenerating, and toning cosmetics for the face, eyelids, lips, body, and hands. In cosmetics to maintain skin tone and prevent wrinkles [5].

Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin, essential for the development and maintenance of normal skin and other tissues. To increase the stability of vitamin A, it is modified to the corresponding esters, these esters after absorption into the skin are converted into retinol, then into retinoic acid.

The most common ester is retinol palmitate, which is more stable than the pure vitamin. To maintain stability, retinol palmitate is introduced into the cosmetic product at a temperature below 40°C [8].

Along with this component, antioxidants are introduced, usually vitamins E and C, preventing the oxidation of retinoids and yellowing of the final product. The complex use of vitamins A, C, E provides a synergistic effect of the product's activity and brings additional stability to the entire system.

Retinol palmitate is included in day and night creams, anti-age products, as it has a softening effect on the skin, increases its elasticity, activates the cell renewal process, and smoothes out fine wrinkles [9].

Vitamin E is a fat-soluble vitamin, the main lipophilic antioxidant of plasma, membranes and tissues. According to studies of non-enzymatic antioxidants of the stratum corneum, vitamin E is the main physiological antioxidant of the human skin barrier. It is most often used in cosmetics as a moisturizing agent, as well as to stabilize other components against oxidation. Studies have shown that vitamin E is necessary for maintaining the stability of cell membranes, it is believed that it is involved in controlling the structure and functioning of lipoproteins. Studies of bioavailability during penetration through the skin have shown that vitamin E and its acetate penetrate the epidermis equally well [8].

Vitamin E enhances the protective properties of other antioxidants and reduces the severity of various types of skin irritation.

Vitamin E is the best fat-soluble antioxidant, stopping free radical reactions. But, participating in the protection of our body from free radicals, vitamin E itself can also be oxidized. The introduction of vitamin C, which, being a strong reducer, restores vitamin E and even increases its activity, solves this problem, so in the right cosmetic formulations you can often see both of these vitamins together [9].

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is a magnesium salt of ascorbic acid, one of three commonly used forms of vitamin C. It is most stable under standard conditions and neutral pH. An antioxidant, a stimulator of collagen synthesis, blocks UV-induced lipid peroxidation. It has been established that magnesium ascorbyl phosphate stimulates collagen synthesis and regulates the production of type I collagen [9].

Jojoba oil is a mixture of long-chain unbranched liquid wax esters, very resistant to rancidity and ideal for cosmetics manufacturing technology. It has a good affinity with the skin, since about 25% of sebum consists of wax esters, similar in composition to jojoba oil. It has a beneficial effect on the skin, is known for its anti-inflammatory properties, has normalizing properties, and is useful for dry skin [5].

Jojoba oil not only slows down the oxidation processes of cosmetic formulation components, but also, penetrating into the deep layers of the skin, slows down the processes of peroxidation of skin lipids, thus preventing premature aging. It effectively moisturizes and softens the skin, forming a semi-permeable protective layer on its surface [6].

In order to achieve a preservative effect, the claimed cosmetic product uses a complex of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin. Both components are approved for use in all countries of the world. This preservative system is a reasonable alternative to classic preservative mixtures.

Phenoxyethanol is a well-known, widely used cosmetic preservative, antiseptic component, and has a mild moisturizing effect [5].

Ethylhexylglycerin is a monoalkyl ether of glycerol, one of the strongest "green" preservatives, non-formaldehyde-releasing, comparable in strength to paraben analogues. In cosmetics, it is recommended as a multifunctional ingredient, which is: a softening additive in skin care products; an additive that improves the tactile properties of the emulsion, enhancing the activity of other antimicrobial agents, such as glycols and cosmetic alcohols, especially active against gram-positive bacteria. Ethylhexylglycerin is an emollient that helps moisturize the skin, used as a fixative for fragrances. [5].

Ethylhexylglycerin changes the surface tension of the cell membranes of microorganisms, which significantly increases the effectiveness of the antimicrobial action of phenoxyethanol.

The preparation of the claimed cream is carried out using the following technology:

The prescribed amount of glycerin, mineral oil, water, and Trilon B is loaded into the reactor through a counter, stirring is turned on, and the reactor is heated to a temperature of 60-65°C. When this temperature is reached, ceteareth-20, glyceryl stearate, high-molecular alcohols, confectionery fat, jojoba oil, isopropyl palmitate, and dimethicone are loaded, and heating is continued to a temperature of 70-75°C. Emulsification of the cream is carried out at a temperature of 70-75°C for 30-40 minutes. Upon completion of emulsification, the cooling process is started with stirring.

At a temperature of 65-70°C, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, butylhydroxytoluene, allantoin, and xanthan gum are loaded into the reactor and stirred until the raw materials are completely dissolved.

At a temperature of 35-40°C, preservative, bifidobacteria lysate, lactobacilli lysate, propionic acid bacteria lysate, sodium hyaluronate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, vitamin A, vitamin E are added, and mixing is continued.

At a temperature of 30-33°C, the fragrance is added, stirred for 5-10 minutes, the cooling is turned off, the stirrer is switched off and a sample of the cream is taken from the reactor for physicochemical analysis.

The quality of the cream meets the requirements of TP TS 009/2011 and GOST 31460-2012 "Cosmetic creams. General specifications".

The developed cream is a highly effective cosmetic product for dry skin care and restoration of its natural microbiome, has a moisturizing and softening effect, has a soft consistency, is easy to apply to the skin and is quickly absorbed.

The claimed cosmetic cream was tested in ANO "SOYUZEKSPERTIZA" of the RF CCI. The tests showed the absence of general toxic, irritating and sensitizing effects.

A pilot batch of cosmetic cream for dry skin care has been developed.

Literature:

1. Krasney E. Beyond pro- and prebiotics: new approaches to microbiome regulation. Journal "Raw Materials and Packaging", 2020. No. 7 (229), pp. 8-11.

2. Guéniche A. Bifidobacterium longum lysate, a new ingredient for reactive skin // Exp. Dermatol. 2009. T. 19, No. 8. C. el-e8.

3. Lew L.-C, Liong M.-T. Bioactives from probiotics for dermal health: functions and benefits // J. Appl. Microbiol. 2013. T. 114, no. 5. pp. 1241-1253.

4. Microbnom of beauty. Lysates of probiotic bacteria. Ferverika, presentation.

5. Puchkova T.V., “Encyclopedia of Ingredients for Cosmetics and Perfumery”, Publishing House “School of Cosmetic Chemists”, Moscow, 2015.

6. “Fundamentals of cosmetic chemistry. Basic ingredients. Volume 1. Ed. Puchkova T.V. M.: OOO “School of cosmetic chemists”, 2017.

7. Kim N. Effect of paraprobiotic prepared from Kimchi-derived Lactobacillus plantarum K8 on skin moisturizing activity in human keratinocyte // J. Funct. Foods. 2020. T. 75. P. 104244.

8. Puchkova T.V., “Cosmeceuticals. Modern cosmetics of intensive action”, Publishing House “School of Cosmetic Chemists”, Moscow, 2010.

9. "Fundamentals of cosmetic chemistry. Functional ingredients and biologically active substances. Volume 2. Ed. Puchkova T.V. - M .: OOO "School of cosmetic chemists", 2017.

Claims (2)

Cosmetic cream for dry skin care and restoration of its natural microbiome, containing isopropyl palmitate, dimethicone, jojoba oil, mineral oil, confectionery fat, ceteareth-20, glyceryl stearate, high molecular weight alcohols, glycerin, xanthan gum, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, disodium EDTA dihydrate, butylhydroxytoluene, vitamin A, vitamin E, allantoin, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium hyaluronate, bifidobacteria lysate, latobacteria lysate, propionic acid bacteria lysate, fragrance and water in the following ratio of components, wt.%: Isopropyl palmitate 1,000-5,000 Dimethicone 1,000-4,000 Mineral oil 2,000-8,000 Confectionery fat 2,000-6,000 Ceteareth-20 0,500-3,000 Glyceryl stearate 1,500-4,000 High molecular weight alcohols 1,000-5,000 Distilled glycerin 2,000-8,000 Xanthan gum 0.100-1.500 Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate 0,500-2,000 Lactobacillus lysate 0.010-1.000 Bifidobacterium lysate 0.010-1.000 Propionibacterium lysate 0.010-1.000 Disodium EDTA dihydrate 0.100-0.500 Butylated hydroxytoluene 0.010-0.100 Allantoin 0.100-1.000 Sodium hyaluronate 0.001-0.200 Vitamin A (retinyl palmitate) 0.001-0.200 Vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate) 0.001-0.200 Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 0.001-0.200 Jojoba oil 0.100-3.000 Phenoxyethanol up to 0.900 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.100-1.000 Fragrance 0.100-1.000 Drinking water up to 100.00