MXPA97001609A

MXPA97001609A - Composition threatened by a polisacar alquileter

Info

Publication number: MXPA97001609A
Application number: MXPA/A/1997/001609A
Authority: MX
Inventors: Simon Pascal; Arnaud Pascal
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 1996-03-12
Filing date: 1997-03-03
Publication date: 1998-04-01

Abstract

The invention relates to a thickened composition containing as a thickener a polysaccharide alkyl ether formed by units including at least two different osidic rings, each unit including at least one hydroxyl group substituted by a saturated hydrocarbon alkyl chain. The alkyl ether has in particular a molecular weight of more than 200,000 and is in particular a guar rubber alkyl ether with a degree of substitution of 2 to 3. The invention also relates to the use of this composition in the cosmetic, dermatological, veterinary and / or veterinary fields. or feed

Description

COMPOSITION THREATENED BY A POLYSACCHARIDE ALKILETER Field of the invention The present invention relates to a thickened composition containing a new fat phase thickener, intended in particular for the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields. The invention also relates to a use of this composition for the treatment, makeup and / or treatment of human skin and / or mucous membranes.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION In cosmetic or dermatological products, it is common to find a thickened fatty phase; this happens particularly in ointments, treatment gels or anhydrous gomants, solid compositions such as deodorants, balms and lipsticks. The thickening of the oils makes it possible in particular to limit the exudation of the oils from the solid compositions and, in addition, in the reds of REF: 24126 lips the migration of the red film on the lips. To remedy these problems, waxes or fillers have usually been used. Unfortunately, these waxes and fillers have a tendency to compound the composition, which is not always desirable. In particular, women are increasingly looking for bright red lips. On the other hand, it is known to thicken oils with polymeric thickeners. Unfortunately, known oil thickeners must be used in large quantities to obtain a high viscosity gel, namely greater than 1.3 Pa. s. However, too large a quantity of thickener gives the composition, when the latter is intended for the cosmetic field, insufficient properties, particularly an adhesive touch and a lack of slippage, these disadvantages can be very annoying, even redhibitory.

Description of the invention Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the applicant firm has discovered that it was possible thickly thicken some fatty phases and obtain stable cosmetic compositions in transparent gel form having satisfactory cosmetic properties, thanks to a particular thickener. The subject of the present invention is therefore a composition comprising a fatty phase and a thickener of said fat phase, said thickener comprising at least one polysaccharide alkyl ether composed of units comprising at least two different osidic rings, each ring including at least one ring hydroxyl group substituted by a saturated hydrocarbon alkyl chain, and the fat phase having the solubility parameters dD and da according to the Hansen solubility space satisfactory under the following conditions: 15.00 (J / cm3) 1 2 < dD < 18.00 (J / cm3) 1 2 6.50 (J / cm3) 1 2 < da < 10, 00 (J / cm3) 1/2 Thanks to this particular thickener and this grease phase selection, the composition according to the invention is transparent and has a viscosity of more than 1.3 Pa.s (1300 cps) for a percentage of 4% weight. Thanks to this thickener and this selection of fatty substances, it is possible bar-like solid composition exhibiting improved cosmetic properties in relation to the thickened compositions of the prior art. In particular, it is possible to obtain a soft red lipstick in the application that does not burn on the skin contiguous to the lips and with a shiny appearance. Although the invention is very particularly adapted to the cosmetic field, it applies to any field that needs to obtain thick compositions including solid compositions and particularly in the fields of agri-food, veterinary, dermatological, pharmaceutical, wood, (bar of pigments and wax) for the restoration of furniture). Preferably, 16.00 (J / cm3) 1 2 < dD < 18.00 (J / cm3) 1/2. The subject of the invention is also the use of a polysaccharide alkyl ether formed by units including at least two different osidic rings, each unit including at least one hydroxyl group substituted by a saturated hydrocarbon alkyl chain, to thicken a fatty phase having the parameters of solubility dD and da according to the Hansen solubility space, which meets the following conditions: 15.00 (J / cm3) 1/2 < dD < 18.00 (J / cm3) 1 2 6.50 (J / cm3) 1/2 < da < 10.00 (J / cm3) 1/2. The definition of the fatty bodies in the space of three-dimensional solubility according to Hansen is described in the article by C.M. HANSEN: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to Hansen's space: - dD characterizes the dispersion forces of LONDON from the formation of dipoles induced in molecular collisions; - dp characterizes the forces of DEBYE interactions between permanent dipoles; - dh characterizes the forces of specific interactions (type hydrogen bonds, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc ...); - da is determined by the equation: da = (dp2 + dh2) 1 2 The parameters dp, dh- dD and da are expressed in (J / cm3) 1 2. In the composition according to the invention, any fatty substance can be used or mixture of bodies that comply with the indicated relationships previously. In this case, the solubility parameters of the mixture are determined from those of the fatty substances taken separately, according to the following relationships: dDmel =? X Í dDi; dpme l = S X I dp i and dhme l = Í dhi gives the = (pmel + O hmel) where xi represents the volume fraction of the fatty body i in the mixture. Accordingly, it is possible to obtain thickened compositions particularly in gel form with a viscosity greater than 1.3 Pa.s with fatty substances whose solubility parameters are not included in the preceding relationships. It is within the scope of the person skilled in the art to determine the amounts of each fatty substance to obtain a mixture of fatty substances that complies with the aforementioned ratios. Fatty bodies that comply with the ratios indicated above include fatty acid triglycerides of 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanic acids (dD = 16.62 and da = 7.29), octanoic acids (dD). = 16.35 and da = 6.87), and capric / caprylic acids (dD = 16.64 and da = 6.69); synthetic oils having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol (dD = 16.36 and da = 7.69), 2-butyloctanol (dD = 16.12 and da = 9.78), 2-hexyldecanol (dD 16, 26 and da = 8.55), 2-undecylpentadecanol (dD = 16.45 and da = 6.79); esters of fatty acids particularly of 16 to 22 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol dioctanoate (dD = 16.07 and gives 6.68), neopentyl glycol diheptanoate (dD = 16.37 and da = 6.69), diethylene glycol diisononanoate (dD = 16.20 y = 6.86); the oleic alcohol (dD = 16.28 and da = 8.17); hydroxylated synthesis esters such as isostearyl lactate (dD = 16.36 and da = 8.74), octyl hydroxystearate (dD = 16.43 and da = 7.89), octyldodecyl hydroxystearate (dD = 16.54 and da = 6.56), diisostearyl malate (dD = 16.61 and da = 7.19), triisocetyl citrate (dD = 16.77 and da = 6.83); hydroxylated triglycerides such as castor oil (dD = 16.79 and da = 9.09), or also a mixture of one or more of these fatty substances. As fatty substances that do not comply with the Hansen ratios indicated above, taken separately, mention may be made of volatile silicones or not, oils of mineral origin such as petrolatum and paraffin oil, oils of vegetable origin such as oil jojoba, sesame, rapeseed, charcoal butter, synthetic oils such as Purcellin oil, palmitate of 2-ethyl hexyl, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyl dodecyl benzoate and hydrogenated isoparaffin (6, 8-moles of isobutylene). These oils do not comply with the ratios indicated above and are used at concentrations preferably not exceeding 50%. On the other hand, oils that comply with the Hansen ratios indicated above can represent up to 99% of the fatty phase. In the thickener of the invention, "saturated hydrocarbon alkyl chain" means a chain that includes from 1 to 24, preferably from 1 to 10 and better from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. In particular, the alkyl chain is selected from the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl chains. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide alkyl ether has a molecular weight greater than 100000, and preferably greater than 200000. This molecular weight can reach up to 1 million. This alkyl ether may include from one to six and better from two to four hydroxyl groups per unit, substituted by a saturated hydrocarbon alkyl chain. The osidic cycles are chosen in particular between the oil, galactose, glucose, furanose, rhamnose, arabinose. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide alkyl ether according to the invention is an alkyl ether of a gum and more particularly of a globally non-ionic gum, that is to say it includes little or no ionic group. Suitable gums include, for example, guar gum, the unit of which comprises a galactose and a mannose, locust bean gum whose unit comprises a galactose and a mannose, araya gum which is a complex mixture of rhamnose, galactose, and galacturonic acid, the gum that is a complex mixture of arabinose, galactose and galacturonic acid. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide alkyl ether is a derivative of guar gum, and more particularly guartylated guar having a degree of substitution of 2 to 3 and particularly of about 2.5 as described in the document RD 95378007 (October 1995).

The composition according to the invention can contain, for example, an amount of alkyl ether of polysaccharide ranging from 0.5 to 10%, and preferably from 2 to 8% of the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention can also comprise all the ingredients conventionally used in the areas in question and more especially in the cosmetic and dermatological fields. These ingredients are in particular chosen from preservatives, vitamins and other lipophilic active ingredients (lanolin, UVA filter) or hydrophilic (moisturizing agents such as glycerin), different aqueous or fatty phase thickeners of the invention, perfumes, surfactants. , water, antioxidants, fillers, waxes, and their mixtures. The composition according to the invention can also contain lipid vesicles of the ionic and / or nonionic type. The amounts of these different ingredients are those conventionally used in the areas in question and for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition. The nature of these ingredients and their proportion must be compatible with obtaining stable compositions thickened according to the invention. The composition of the invention can be presented in any of the galenic forms normally used for topical or oral application, and particularly in the form of an oily gel, an oil-in-water emulsion, or water-in-oil, a dispersion of oil in water thanks to vesicles, placing the vesicles between the oil / water contact surface. This composition can have the appearance of a cream, an ointment, a paste, an ointment, a bar. The composition according to the invention can advantageously be used for the treatment, makeup or treatment of the skin and / or mucous membranes depending on the nature of the active agents used. In particular, the composition of the invention can be a lipstick bar, a lip balm that can treat the cracks or also a composition to apply on the lipstick film particularly to increase its gloss. Also, the invention still has as its object a cosmetic use of the composition for caring for and / or applying the lips as well as a use of this composition for the preparation of an ointment intended to treat the lips. The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic and / or dermatological treatment process for the lips, consisting of applying the composition defined above to the lips. The examples of compositions given below are hypothetical examples but fully realizable by the person skilled in the art; they are provided by way of illustration and without limitation. The quantities are given in% by weight.

Example 1 Guar ethylated with a degree of substitution of approximately 2.5 4% octyldodecanol cps 100% The viscosity is 2.96 Pa.s (2960 cps).

This clear gel can be the basis for any cosmetic or dermatological composition.

Example 2 Ethyl guar having a degree of substitution of approximately 2.5 4% Triglycerides of acids csp 100% capric / caprylic The viscosity is 2.91 Pa.s (2910 cps). This clear gel can be the basis for any cosmetic or dermatological composition.

Example 3 Guar ethylated with a degree of substitution of approximately 2.5 4% Castor oil csp 100% The viscosity is 67 Pa.s (67000 cps). This clear gel can be the basis for any cosmetic or dermatological composition.

Against example 1 With the C? -C? 5-alkylbenzoate whose solubility parameters dD and da are respectively of 17.33 and 4.92, a liquid composition having a viscosity of 0.35 Pa.s (350 cps) by a 4% thickener is obtained. All the compositions indicated above were obtained by mixing the oil and the polymer by heating the mixture at 90 ° C until complete dissolution of the polymer. The gel was obtained by cooling to room temperature.

Example 4: Red lips Ethyl guar with a degree of substitution of approximately 2.5 2.60% Octyldodecanol 31.20% Capric / capric acid triglycerides 31.20% Polyethylene (zero) 15.00% Lanolin 10.00% pigments 10.00% Perfume csp Preservative csp From the clear gel prepared as above, polyethylene wax, lanolin and pigments were added at 90 ° C. After grinding the pigments and adding the perfume and of the preservative, the red of lips is poured in a mold of suitable form to obtain a bar. It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known by the applicant to carry out the present invention is that which is clear from the present description of the invention. Having described the invention as above, the content of the following is claimed as property:

Claims

1. Composition containing a fatty phase and a thickener of said fat phase, characterized in that the thickener comprises at least one polysaccharide alkyl ether formed by units comprising at least two different osidic rings, each motif including at least one hydroxyl group substituted by a chain saturated hydrocarbon alkyl, and the fatty phase presents the solubility parameters dD and da according to the Hansen solubility space, fulfilling the following conditions: 15.00 (J / cm3) 1 2 < dD < 18.00 (J / cm3) 1 2 6.50 (J / cm3) 1 2 < da < 10.00 (J / cm3) 1 2.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the solubility parameter dD is such as 16.00 (J / cm3) 1/2 < dD < 18.00 (J / cm3) 1 23.

Composition according to claim 1 or 2. characterized in that two of four hydroxyl groups per unit are replaced by a saturated hydrocarbon alkyl chain.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the saturated hydrocarbon alkyl chain comprises from 1 to 24 carbon atoms.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the saturated hydrocarbon alkyl chain includes from 2 to 10 carbon atoms.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkyl chain is chosen from the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl chains.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the osidic cycles are chosen from mannose, galactose, glucose, furanose, rhamnose, arabinose.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized because the polysaccharide alkyl ether is an alkyl ether of a gum selected from guar gum, locust bean gum, karaya gum, gum trapping and their mixtures.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide alkyl ether is ethyl chain guar gum with a degree of substitution of 2 to 3.

10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide alkyl ether has a molecular weight higher than 200000.

11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide alkyl ether is present in an amount ranging between 0.5 and 10% of the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide alkyl ether is present in an amount ranging from 2 to 8% of the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty phase contains at least one fatty substance which complies with the Hansen ratios selected from the fatty acid triglycerides of 4 to 10 carbon atoms, having the synthesis oils of 12 at 26 carbon atoms, propylene glycol dioctanoate), neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, oleic alcohol, isostearyl lactate octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate), triisocetyl citrate, Castor and its mixtures.

14. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fatty body that complies with the Hansen ratios represents up to 99% of the fatty phase.

15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized because it comes in the form of an oily gel, a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion or an oil-in-water dispersion thanks to vesicles.

16. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains at least one ingredient selected from perfumes, preservatives, waxes, pigments, lipophilic active agents.

17. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a bar of lipstick, lip balm or composition to be applied on a film of lipstick particularly to increase the gloss.

18. Use of a polysaccharide alkyl ether formed of units including at least two different osidic rings, each unit including at least one hydroxyl group substituted by a saturated hydrocarbon alkyl chain, to thicken a fatty phase having the parameters of solubility dD Y gives according to the Hansen solubility space that meets the following conditions: 15.00 (J / cm3) 1 2 < dD < 18.00 (J / cm3) 1/2 6.50 (J / cm3) 1 2 < da < 10.00 (J / cm3) 1 2.

19. Use according to claim 18, characterized in that the polysaccharide alkyl ether is an alkyl ether of a gum selected from guar gum, locust bean gum, karaya gum, gum gum and mixtures thereof.

20. Cosmetic use of the composition according to one of claims 1 to 17 to treat and / or make up the lips.

21. Use of the composition according to one of claims 1 to 17 for the preparation of an ointment intended to treat the lips.

22. Process for cosmetic treatment of the lips, characterized in that it consists of applying a composition on the lips as defined in claims 1 to 17.