JP5236867B2 - Solid cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic containing an astaxanthin excellent in an antioxidant effect and an anti-aging effect. More specifically, the present invention is excellent in a moisturizing effect and its durability, and improves the firmness and gloss of the skin. The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic excellent in effect.

Conventionally, astaxanthins have been used as anti-oxidants, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-aging agents, anti-stress agents, sunscreen agents, whitening agents, etc. in skin preparations such as cosmetics, quasi-drugs, and pharmaceuticals. It was. (For example, refer to Patent Documents 1 to 8, Non-Patent Document 1),

On the other hand, as people age, the elasticity of the skin decreases, the firmness is lost, and the gloss of the skin also tends to decrease. In addition, various symptoms associated with aging are associated with a decrease in the moisture retention effect of the skin. For this reason, various cosmetics that enhance the skin moisturizing effect have been developed. Specifically, a technique for blending a water-containing oil into a water-in-oil emulsion composition (for example, see Patent Document 9), a technique for blending a water-containing oil and a clay mineral (for example, see Patent Document 10), etc. Has been used. Furthermore, in order to improve aging skin, a technique of blending an anionic polymer salt as a recovery accelerator for the skin barrier function (for example, see Patent Document 11) has been used.

JP-A-2-49091 Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 5-15536 JP 7-300421 A JP-A-63-83017 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 9-143063 JP-A-6-145062 JP-A-9-124470 JP 2002-128651 A JP-A-7-304629 JP-A-8-20529 JP 2004-231578 A The 66th Annual Meeting of the Japan Cosmetic Science Society, 66, 1994

However, in Patent Documents 1 to 8 and Non-Patent Document 1, solid cosmetics that are combined with astaxanthins and a water-holding oil, are excellent in moisturizing effect and sustainability, and are effective in improving the firmness and gloss of the skin. There was no disclosure or even suggestion that a fee could be obtained. Moreover, although the moisturizing effect can be enhanced to a certain extent by the techniques described in Patent Documents 9 to 11, the effect of improving the firmness and gloss of the skin was not obtained.

For this reason, development of the solid cosmetics which was excellent in the moisturizing effect and its sustainability, and excellent in the effect of improving the firmness and gloss of the skin has been desired.

  As a result of intensive studies in the above-mentioned actual situation, the present inventor has given an excellent moisturizing effect to the skin by using astaxanthins, a water-holding oil and a solid oil in combination, and the effect can be sustained. As a result, it was found that the effect of improving the firmness and gloss of the skin was excellent, and the present invention was completed.

That is, the present invention includes the following components (a) to (c);
(A) Astaxanthins 0.00001 to 0.1% by mass
(B) A water-soluble oil (c) A solid cosmetic comprising a solid oil and / or an oil gelling agent is provided.

  In addition, the component (b) is N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (cholesteryl behenyl octyldodecyl), N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (phytosteryl behenyl octyldodecyl), cholesteryl hydroxystearate, lanolin acetate , (12-hydroxystearic acid / stearic acid / rosinic acid) dipentaerythritol, (12-hydroxystearic acid / isostearic acid) dipentaerythritol, or one or more hydrated oils A solid cosmetic is provided.

  Furthermore, the present invention provides a solid cosmetic characterized in that the solid cosmetic is for anti-aging.

  The solid cosmetic of the present invention is excellent in the moisturizing effect and its sustainability, and is excellent in the effect of improving the firmness and gloss of the skin.

Hereinafter, the configuration of the present invention will be described in detail.
The component (a) astaxanthin used in the present invention may be a chemically synthesized product, or one extracted from natural products such as krill, salmon, trout, cypress, red yeast, etc., for example, prepared as follows Can be preferably used. That is, an extraction solvent is added to and extracted from krill family krill (Euphausia similis GO, etc.), and the extract is obtained by filtering the extract, and the extraction solvent is further distilled off from the extract and hydrogenated as necessary. After performing chemical reaction such as addition or hydrolysis, purified astaxanthins that have been deodorized and purified by means of molecular distillation, column chromatography, high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) or the like can be used. As said extraction solvent, organic solvents, such as acetone, ether, chloroform, alcohol (ethanol, methanol, etc.), can also be used, and these mixed solutions can also be used. Alternatively, supercritical carbon dioxide may be used. The astaxanthins in the present invention include both astaxanthins and derivatives thereof.

  Component (a) astaxanthin is a carotenoid represented by the following formula, and derivatives thereof include esters of astaxanthins, such as amino acid esters such as glycine and alanine, acetate esters, citrate esters and the like. Carboxylic acid esters and salts thereof, inorganic acid esters such as phosphate esters and sulfate esters and salts thereof, glycosides such as glucosides, highly unsaturated fatty acids such as eicosapentaenoic acid and docosahexaenoic acid, oleic acid and linoleic acid, etc. And monoesters selected from fatty acid esters selected from unsaturated fatty acids or saturated fatty acids such as palmitic acid and stearic acid, and the same or different diesters.

  The blending amount of the component (a) in the solid cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.00001 to 0.1% by mass (hereinafter simply referred to as “%”), more preferably 0.0005 to 0.01%. . If the blending amount is less than 0.00001%, the sufficient effect of astaxanthin may not be obtained, and even if the blending amount exceeds 0.1%, the increase in the effect is not remarkable.

The component (b) hydrated oil used in the present invention imparts a moisturizing effect by holding water on the skin. Such a water-holding oil has a water holding power of 100 or more according to the following test method.
Test method: 10 g of oil heated to 50 ° C. is weighed into a 200 mL beaker, and while stirring at 3000 rpm with a desper mixer, 50 ° C. water is gradually measured, and the maximum (mass g) at which water does not drain is measured. This value was divided by the sample 10 and multiplied by 100 to obtain the water holding power.

  Specifically, the oil of component (b) is, for example, dioctyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, di-N-lauroyl-L-glutamate (cholesteryl behenyl octyldodecyl), di-N-lauroyl-L-glutamate. Amino acid ester oils such as (phytosteryl, behenyl, octyldodecyl), polyhydric alcohol fatty acid esters such as castor oil, shea butter, hexaglycerin fatty acid ester, decaglycerin fatty acid ester, and (adipic acid, 2-ethylhexane Acid / stearic acid) glyceryl oligoester, (12-hydroxystearic acid / stearic acid / rosinic acid) dipentaerythritol, (12-hydroxystearic acid / isostearic acid) dipentaerythritol, fatty acid dipentaerythritol, cholestero Cholesterol, dehydrocholesterol, lanolin fatty acid cholesteryl, isostearate cholesteryl, hydroxy stearate cholesteryl, ricinoleate cholesteryl, macadamia nut oil fatty acid cholesteryl, etc. Lanolin derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, hydrogenated lanolin alcohol, lanolin fatty acid and the like, and those modified with polyoxyalkylene, and one or more of these can be used. Among these, as component (b), N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (cholesteryl behenyl octyldodecyl), N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (phytosteryl behenyl octyldodecyl), hydroxystearin When cholesteryl acid, lanolin acetate, (12-hydroxystearic acid / stearic acid / rosinic acid) dipentaerythritol, (12-hydroxystearic acid / isostearic acid) dipentaerythritol is selected, a solid cosmetic with a better moisturizing effect can be obtained. Can be obtained.

  The blending amount of the component (b) in the solid cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.1 to 90%, more preferably 1 to 50%. When component (b) is blended in this range, a solid cosmetic having a more excellent moisturizing effect can be obtained.

  The component (c) solid oil and / or oil gelling agent used in the present invention forms a cosmetic film on the skin and enhances the durability of the moisturizing effect. Such a solid oil is an oil that exhibits a solid at room temperature, and may be any of synthetic hydrocarbons, natural and synthetic waxes, hardened oils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, and the like. Paraffin wax, ceresin wax, microcrystalline wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, polyethylene wax, ethylene / propylene copolymer, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, mole, geirow, dirow, montan wax, stearyl modified methylpolysiloxane, behenyl modified Examples thereof include silicone waxes such as methylpolysiloxane, and one or more of these can be used.

  In addition, as the oil gelling agent, the component (b) is gelled, for example, metal soap such as aluminum stearate and magnesium stearate, dextrin fatty acid ester such as dextrin palmitate, sucrose palmitate ester, Starch palmitic acid ester, polysaccharide fatty acid ester such as fructooligosaccharide stearic acid ester derived from Bacmondow, organically modified clay minerals such as dioctadecyldimethylammonium salt modified montmorillonite, dihexadecyldimethylammonium salt modified montmorillonite, 12-hydroxystearic acid and the like These can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

  0.1-20% is preferable and, as for the compounding quantity of a component (c) in the solid cosmetics of this invention, 1-10% is more preferable. When the component (c) is blended in this range, a solid cosmetic having a more excellent moisturizing effect can be obtained.

  In the solid cosmetic of the present invention, the following components can be added as necessary in addition to the above components as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. Such components include surfactants, oily components other than components (b) and (c), water-soluble polymers, polyhydric alcohols, lower alcohols, ultraviolet absorbers, humectants, film forming agents, powders Ingredients, anti-fading agents, antioxidants, antifoaming agents, beauty ingredients, preservatives, fragrances and the like can be mentioned.

  Specifically, the surfactant that can be blended in the present invention includes, as an anionic surfactant, fatty acids such as stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid. And fatty acid soaps, acyl glutamates, alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylene-added alkyl phosphates, and the like formed with alkaline substances such as sodium, potassium, and triethanolamine. Examples of the cationic surfactant include alkylamine salts and alkyl quaternary ammonium salts. Amphoteric surfactants include N, N-dimethyl-N-alkyl-N-carboxylmethylammonium betaine, N, N-dialkylaminoalkylene carboxylic acid, N, N, N-trialkyl-N-sulfoalkylene ammonium betaine N, N-dialkyl-N, N-bis (polyoxyethylene sulfate) ammonium betaine, 2-alkyl-1-hydroxyethyl-1-carboxymethylimidazolinium betaine, lecithin, phospholipid and the like. Nonionic surfactants include glycerin fatty acid esters and alkylene glycol adducts thereof, polyglycerin fatty acid esters and alkylene glycol adducts thereof, propylene glycol fatty acid esters and alkylene glycol adducts thereof, sorbitan fatty acid esters and alkylene glycol adducts thereof. , Fatty acid ester of sorbitol and its alkylene glycol adduct, polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether, glycerin alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ether, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, alkylene glycol of lanolin Examples include adducts.

  The oily component that can be blended in the present invention specifically includes hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, squalane, petrolatum, paraffin wax, oils and fats such as olive oil, castor oil, mink oil, macadamian nut oil, jojoba oil, Esters such as cetyl isooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecyl myristate, glyceryl trioctanoate, diglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl triisostearate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, cholesterol fatty acid esters, perfluoropoly Fluorine-based oils such as ether, perfluorodecane, and perfluorooctane can be used, and one or more of these can be used.

  Specific examples of water-soluble polymers that can be blended in the present invention include hyaluronic acid, sodium alginate, xanthan gum, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, carboxyvinyl polymer, alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer, and polyacrylic acid. Examples thereof include sodium, agar, and alkaline-genes-producing polysaccharides, and one or more of these can be used.

  The dosage form of the solid cosmetic of the present invention may be any of oily solids, water-in-oil solids, oil-in-water solids, and the like.

  The use of the solid cosmetics of the present invention can be applied to makeup cosmetics such as lipsticks, lip balms, eye shadows, foundations and concealers, skin care cosmetics such as whitening sticks, wrinkle concealment sticks, and unevenness correction sticks. Further, the solid cosmetic form of the present invention may be any of stick shape, cake shape and the like. In addition, the effect of this invention is remarkable when the solid cosmetics of this invention are for anti-aging, such as improving the firmness of the skin loosened by aging.

  Although the manufacturing method of the solid cosmetics of this invention is not specifically limited, For example, a component (c) is heat-dissolved in a component (b), a component (a) is added, it fills in a container, and it obtains by cooling and solidifying. be able to.

EXAMPLES Next, although an Example is given and this invention is further demonstrated, this invention is not limited at all by this.

Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2: Anti-aging skin care sticks (aqueous solid in oil)
Anti-aging skin care sticks having the compositions shown in Tables 1 and 2 below are prepared by the following manufacturing method, and the following items are shown for each of the “moisturizing effect”, “continuation of moisturizing effect”, and “improvement of firmness and gloss”. Evaluation / determination was performed by the evaluation method, and the results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 11 are heated to 70 ° C. and mixed.
B: Components 12 to 15 are heated to 70 ° C. and mixed.
C: B is added to A and emulsified at 70 ° C.
D: C was heated to 70 ° C., filled into a container, cooled to room temperature, and an anti-aging skin care stick was obtained.

Evaluation method 1: “moisturizing effect”, “continuation of moisturizing effect”
20 women over 35 years of age and over 10 years of makeup experience are given as panels, and the skin care sticks for anti-aging of the examples and comparative examples are used, and “Moisturizing effect” and “Continuing moisturizing effect” are as follows. Evaluation was made based on the evaluation criteria of 5 grades and judged from the average score of all panels.

(5-level absolute evaluation criteria)
Evaluation result: Score Very good: 5 points Good: 4 points Normal: 3 points Defect: 2 points Very bad: 1 point (Criteria)
Average score of all panels: Judge 4.5 or higher: ◎
3.5 points or more and less than 4.5 points: ○
2.5 or more and less than 3.5: △
Less than 2.5 points: ×

Evaluation Method 2: “Improves elasticity and gloss”
10 females over the age of 35 years of age who are 35 years of age or older are used as panels, and the skin care sticks for anti-aging of the above-mentioned examples and comparative examples are used every day for 10 weeks twice a day in the morning and at the start of use. The number of people who felt that the firmness and gloss of the skin were improved before and after 10 weeks were determined according to the following criteria.

(Criteria)
Number of panels with skin improvement effect: Judgment: 10 people: ◎
7-9 people: ○
2 to 6 people: △
0 to 1 person: ×

As is apparent from the results of Tables 1 and 2, the skin care sticks for preventing aging of Examples 1 to 6, which are the products of the present invention, have “moisturizing effect”, “persistence of moisturizing effect”, “harmful feeling / It was an anti-aging solid cosmetic excellent in all items of “improvement of gloss”. On the other hand, Comparative Example 1 in which component (a) is not blended is inferior to “improvement of firmness and gloss”, and Comparative Example 2 in which component (b) is not blended is “moisturizing effect” and “continuous moisturizing effect”. The "sexuality" was inferior.

Example 7: Anti-aging stick-like lip balm (oil-based solid)
(Ingredient) (%)
1. Carnauba wax 10
2. Cholesteryl hydroxystearate 5
3. Microcrystalline wax 5
4). Polybutene 10
5. Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 20
6). 6. Liquid paraffin remaining amount Astaxanthin (Note 1) 0.01
8). Silicic anhydride 0.5
9. Preservative appropriate amount10. Perfume

(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 10 are heated to 100 ° C. and mixed.
B: A was filled in a container at 70 ° C., and cooled and solidified to room temperature to obtain an anti-aging stick-shaped lip balm.
The anti-aging stick-like lip balm obtained as described above is a solid cosmetic for anti-aging excellent in all items of “moisturizing effect”, “persistence of moisturizing effect”, and “improvement of firmness and gloss”. It was a fee.

Example 8: Cake eyeshadow (oil-based solid)
(Ingredient) (%)
1. Dextrin palmitate 8
2. Liquid paraffin remaining Dimethicone (6CS) 0.5
4). Acetic acid liquid lanolin 5
5. Astaxanthin (Note 1) 0.01
6. 2-Ethylhexanoic acid 20
7). Silicic anhydride 2
8). Mica titanium 1
9. Preservative appropriate amount10. Perfume

(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 6 are heated to 70 ° C. and mixed.
B: Components 7 to 10 are added to A and mixed uniformly.
C: B was filled in a metal pan at 70 ° C., and cooled and solidified to room temperature to obtain a cake-like eye shadow.
The cake-like eye shadow obtained as described above was a solid cosmetic excellent in all items of “moisturizing effect”, “persistence of moisturizing effect”, and “improvement of firmness and gloss”.
that's all

Claims (2)

The following components (a) to (c);
(A) Astaxanthins 0.00001 to 0.1% by mass
(B) N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (cholesteryl behenyl octyldedeci
), Cholesteryl hydroxystearate and (12-hydroxystearic acid.
One or two or more hydrated oils selected from ( stearic acid / rosinic acid) dipentaerythritol (c) a solid oil and / or an oil gelling agent.   The solid cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the solid cosmetic is used for preventing aging.