KR100713564B1 - Oil-in-water makeup cosmetic composition containing a liquid crystal base and a manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention has all the advantages of the oil-in-water makeup composition, such as water supply ability, skin affinity, excellent stability, light usability and the water-in-oil makeup composition, such as water resistance, longevity, excellent dispersibility, thereby improving color clarity According to the present invention, the present invention relates to a makeup cosmetic composition having an effect of brightening the skin color and easy to manufacture, and to a method for preparing the same, using a liquid crystal base prepared using hydrogenated lecithin, cholesterol, an emulsifier, and a fluorine compound. It relates to an oil-in-water makeup cosmetic composition prepared by the step and a manufacturing method thereof.

The main components of the hydrogenated lecithin composition used in the present invention are phosphatidyl choline, phosphatidyl ethanolamine and lysophosphatidyl choline, the relative composition of which is 100% by weight of the total lecithin composition. When Phosphatidyl choline / Phosphatidyl ethanolamine / Lysophosphatidyl Choline = 67.0-71.0 / 7-11.0 / 0.1-3.0, the amount of the lecithin composition thus prepared is 2-20% by weight based on the entire liquid crystal base.

Description

Make-up Cosmetic Composition of Oil-in-Water Type Containing Liquid Crystal Base and Method Therefor}

The present invention relates to a makeup cosmetic composition using a hydrogenated lecithin, cholesterol, an emulsifier and a fluorine compound, and applying the same to an oil-in-water emulsion makeup cosmetic formulation, and a method for manufacturing the same.

The general functions of make-up cosmetics include skin care functions such as skin nourishment, astringent effect, and moisturizing function, and cover skin defects, clean up skin texture, and beautify skin beautifully by color. The function to cover the defects and to beautify the skin by giving color is mostly performed by the foundations in the makeup cosmetics, specifically by the pigment component in the foundations.

Such foundations are essential cosmetics for moisture and nutrient supply, concealing skin defects, sun protection, skin beautification effect, etc., and are generally divided into emulsion foundations, dispersion foundations and powder foundations depending on the formulation. Looking more specifically as follows.

Emulsion type foundation is emulsified by dispersing the pigment in the water phase or oil phase, and then emulsifying the oil phase or the water phase. do.

Such emulsified foundations have a medium covering power and contain a large amount of moisture, which is advantageous in terms of skin friendliness, and thus has excellent adhesion and sustainability. However, it is inconvenient to use and some consumers feel weak oil. In particular, the oil-in-water foundation is lighter than the water-in-oil type because the external appearance is composed of an aqueous component, but the durability is poor in maintaining color over time. On the contrary, the water-in-oil type has better adhesion and durability than the oil-in-water type. One feels oily and has a heavy and frustrating drawback.

Dispersible foundation (skin cover formulation) is a formulation in which pigments are dispersed in oil, which has the highest covering power and is ideal for covering skin defects and contains the most oily ingredients, thus providing excellent adhesion and sustainability. However, compared to powder and emulsified type foundation, the degree of inhibiting skin respiration is great and the user feels frustrated due to oiliness and thickening of the makeup film. In addition, there is a problem that the unnatural makeup is produced, and further sweating occurs.

Powder foundation is the most popular type of foundation formulation because it is sprayed, mixed with a powder binder and an oily binder, pulverized and then pressed, and is easy to use and portable. These powder foundations contain the least amount of oily ingredients, so they are light in usability, have excellent sebum control ability, and are easy to carry and modify.However, powder fluffing occurs during use, and the content of oily ingredients is higher than that of dispersed and emulsified foundations. Since it has a disadvantage of inferior adhesion and persistence, powder agglomeration occurs as time passes after makeup. In addition, the makeup film is lifted up eventually, the color change occurs, and thus the cosmetic film has a fatal weakness that collapses.

The most ideal form of such foundations is a system that combines the advantages of water supply type, skin affinity, excellent stability, light usability, etc., and the advantages of water-in-oil type, such as excellent water resistance and excellent durability.

As a method for achieving this purpose, a lot of S / W (silicon in water) formulations using light usability, water resistance, and the like of lately have been developed. However, S / W formulations have advantages such as light usability and excellent sustainability, but like the oil-in-water type, they do not have skin affinity and have fatal weaknesses that lack emulsification stability.

On the other hand, a lot of researches to achieve the above object in the form of multi-emulsification (oil / water / oil, water / milk / water, etc.), this method has a weak manufacturing process is difficult to generalize.

Furthermore, due to the recent rapid development of the industry, the increase of automobiles, the use of cold and heating equipment, the deepening of air pollution, the increase of direct ultraviolet rays due to the ozone layer destruction, and the increase of mental stress caused by the change of social environment Reflecting the general situation that human skin is getting weaker, it is not only to protect skin, to beautify skin, but also to provide nutrients to skin and to rough skin that can come from using general pigment. There is an urgent need for the development of highly functional cosmetics.

The present invention is to overcome the problems of the prior art as described above, the purpose is to provide all the advantages of the oil-in-water makeup composition, such as water supply ability, skin affinity, excellent stability, light usability and water-in-oil makeup composition, such as water resistance, durability It is to provide a makeup cosmetic composition and a method of manufacturing the same easy to manufacture.

To this end, the present invention provides a liquid crystal base using a lecithin composition comprising phosphatidyl choline, phosphatidyl ethanolamine, and lysophosphatidyl choline as main components, and a makeup composition using the liquid crystal base. The present invention provides a stable lecithin-containing makeup cosmetic composition and a method for producing the same.

In order to achieve the above object, the present inventors have conducted various studies on methods of overcoming the disadvantages of the existing cosmetics. As a result, the lecithin material is similar to the skin lipid and using the liquid crystal system in the intermediate state between the solid and the liquid. Considering that the purpose of the present invention was able to complete the present invention after several years of research.

Lecithin used in the present invention is a biomaterial, also known as phosphatidyl choline, is one of the major phospholipid components of the animal cell system, and has a composition similar to the skin lipid component.

Such lecithin has a structure in which a hydrophilic component such as phosphoric acid and choline is bonded to one side of glycerol and a hydrophobic acyl group is bonded to the other side, and has surface activity, and thus is mainly used as an emulsifier for food or pharmaceuticals. It is a commonly used substance.

Wherein R and R 'are acyl groups of C ₁₄ -C ₂₂

However, in spite of the above-mentioned advantages, such lecithin has a disadvantage in that its molecular structure is large and its emulsification stability is sometimes lowered, or it has a disadvantage such as forming a complex with a water-soluble thickener and pulling the finishing texture, so that the use in cosmetics is extremely low. It was.                     

The present inventors completed the present invention by studying a method for preparing a liquid crystal using a lecithin substrate in order to compensate for the weaknesses of the lecithin, and the present invention will be described in detail below.

In the present invention, a liquid crystal is formed by using hydrogenated (hydrogenated) lecithin / stabilizer / emulsifier / modified fluorine and the like and used for preparing oil-in-water makeup cosmetics.

First, the lecithin used in the present invention will be described.

In general, lecithin is used in the form of a composition mixed with various kinds of lecithin, phospholipids, and phosphoric acid instead of a single chemical composition in actual use, and its composition ratio is very important because the usability and stabilization degree vary depending on the specific composition. Can be.

The main components of the hydrogenated lecithin composition used in the present invention are phosphatidyl choline, phosphatidyl ethanolamine and lysophosphatidyl choline, the relative composition of which is 100% by weight of the total lecithin composition. When Phosphatidyl choline / Phosphatidyl ethanolamine / Lysophosphatidyl Choline = 67.0-71.0 / 7-11.0 / 0.1-3.0, the amount of the lecithin composition thus prepared is 2-20% by weight based on the entire liquid crystal base.

Next, the co-emulsifier has a great nutrition for the liquid crystal formation and stability of the formed liquid crystal, the co-emulsifier used in the present invention is an ethoxylate-based, polyglyceryl-based or HLB (Hydrophilicity / Lipophilicity Balance) value of 10-15 As at least one of the fatty acid systems, the blending amount is 0.5-70% by weight based on the total weight of the liquid crystal base system.

The ethoxylates of these co-emulsifiers are ethoxylated cholesteryl fatty alcohols, acetylate dipolysorbate 80-cetyl-lanolin alcohols, and the like in the liquid crystal base of the present invention. % Is blended, the polyglyceryl is at least one of polyglyceryl-3-caprate and polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, the compounding amount is 0.1-15% by weight, the fatty acid is glyceryl monostearate As a compounding quantity, it is 0.3-70 weight%.

Next, a cholesteryl system is used as a stabilizer, and such a cholesteryl system serves as a main substrate for liquid crystal formation, and as the cholesterol, phytosterol, cholesteryl carbonate, etc., the compounding amount is 0.1-5.0 weights in the whole liquid crystal base. %to be.

Finally, the modified there is fluorine is used, which serves to prevent re-agglomeration and Salt in and salt out (salt in & out) operation by the powder and improved stability of the liquid crystal form, the tree fruit climb C ₁₄ alkyl, methoxy Chicon, fluorine C _2-8 alkyldimethicone, etc. are used alone or in combination, and the compounding amount is 0.5-20.0 wt% in the entire liquid crystal base.

Meanwhile, in the final makeup composition of the present invention, non-volatile silicone materials such as dimethicone, triphenylmethicone, and silicone polymer are used as main materials for liquid crystal stability in a foundation system. It is 5-20 weight% at 100.

Hydrocarbon-based oils such as polydesine, isododecanol, squalane and liquid paraffin are used, and the compounding amount in the makeup composition is 2-10% when the total composition is 100.

In addition, an appropriate amount of cyclomethicone may be used to control the adhesion speed.

Hereinafter, the manufacturing method of the liquid crystal base of the present invention containing the above components and the manufacturing process of the makeup composition containing the same will be described in detail.

First, the co-emulsifier and denatured fluorine are heated and dissolved at 80-85 degrees Celsius, dissolved by adding a lecithin system, and then dissolved by adding a cholesteryl system and cooled to room temperature to prepare a liquid crystal base.

After the liquid crystal base is left for 24 hours or more, it is added to the oil-in-water makeup composition to prepare a final makeup cosmetic, wherein the blending amount of the liquid crystal base in the total makeup cosmetic is 0.5-5.0% by weight, preferably 1.0- 3.0 wt%.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention described above is not particularly limited in the formulation, for example, may have a formulation such as makeup base, foundation, emulsion pact, skin cover, lipstick.

In addition, in the cosmetic composition of each formulation, components other than the above components may be appropriately selected and combined without difficulty by those skilled in the art according to the formulation or purpose of use of the cosmetic.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail as examples and test examples using the same, but the present invention is not intended to be limited thereto.

First, the liquid crystal base of the present invention was prepared according to the composition of Table 1 below.

Composition of liquid crystal base Furtherance Sample 1 Sample 2  1. Fatty acid ester 55 40 2. Trifluoro C ₁₄ alkylmethicones 10 20  3. Polyglycerine-3-caprate 10 20  4. Ethoxylated Cholesteryl Fatty Alcohol 10 10  5. Hydrogenated Lecithin Compositions 5 5  6. Cholesterol 10 5

Manufacturing method

1) The raw materials of 1,2,3 are heated to 80-85 ° C and dissolved.

2) The raw materials of 4, 5, and 6 are sequentially added to 1) above, followed by stirring and dissolution, followed by cooling to room temperature.

In order to confirm the presence / absence of liquid crystal formation with respect to the sample of the above example, it was confirmed that a blue-violet lamellar liquid crystal was formed by a polarization microscope (NIKON OPTIPHOT2-POL).

Next, for the test example, using the liquid crystal base sample prepared according to the composition of Table 1 to prepare a makeup composition of the foundation formulation in the composition of Table 2 as an Example and Comparative Example.

Composition of Examples and Comparative Examples Ingredient Name Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2  1. Purified water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100  2. Concentrated glycerin 2 2 2 2  3. Butylene Glycol 3 3 3 3  4. Triethanolamine 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8  5. Titanium Dioxide 10.5 10.5 10.5 10.5  6. Iron oxide q.s q.s q.s q.s  7. Talc 5 5 5 5  8. Kaolin 3 3 3 3  9. Magnesium Silicate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3  10. Xanthan Gum 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15  11. Sample 1 3 - - -  12. Sample 2 - 3 - -  13. Glyceryl Monostearate - - - 2.0  14. Polysorbate 60 - - - 0.5  15. Sample 1 - - 3.0 -  16. Sorbitan Sesquioleate - - - 0.4  17. Squalane 2 2 2 2  18. Dimethicone (6Cs) 10 10 10 10  19.Phenyltrimethicone 2 2 2 2  20. Stearic Acid 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0  21. Preservatives 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3  22. Cyclomethicone 2 2 2 2  23. Incense 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1

Manufacturing method

1) Warm the raw materials 1-4 and 9-12 to 70-75 degrees Celsius, grind the raw materials 5-8 with a grinder, and put them together in a homomixer to disperse.

2) After heating and dissolving the raw material 13-21 at 70-75 ° C, add it to 1) and emulsify for 10-15 minutes.

3) The raw material 22-23 was added to 2) above, emulsified for 1-2 minutes, cooled to 30 ° C, and then filtered.                     

Test Example 1 Usability Test

In order to test the usability as the makeup cosmetics of the Examples and Comparative Examples prepared as described above, 50 women 20-40 years old each Example or Comparative Example was used once daily for one month and then the results Comparative evaluation is shown in Table 3 below.

Usability Test Results Check item Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Adhesion 4.8 4.5 4.0 3.6 Persistence 4.4 4.8 3.8 3.4 Spreadability 4.2 4.8 3.3 3.2 Softness 4.5 4.5 3.8 3.4 Lightness 4.5 4.7 3.6 3.1 Moist 4.5 4.5 4.0 3.4 Sharpness of skin color 4.5 4.5 4.0 3.4 Average 4.5 4.6 3.8 3.4

Evaluation criteria: Very good -5, Good -4, Moderate -3, Slightly dissatisfied -2, Dissatisfied -1

As shown in the table, it can be seen that the inventive composition of the present invention is far superior to the comparative example in all evaluation matters such as spreadability, adhesion, light skin color clarity, and the like. In addition, it can be seen that the usability of the Example added to the water phase is much improved compared to Comparative Example 1 in which the liquid crystal base is added to the oil phase.

Test Example 2 Color Comparison Test

Using the Example 1 and Comparative Example 2 of the present invention prepared according to Table 2, the clarity of skin color was measured three times with a C.C.M (Comprterized Color Matching System) and the average values are shown in Table 4 below. Here, the L value represents the degree of lightness, and the higher the value, the higher the brightness, and the higher the C value representing the chroma, the sharper the color.

Color test result L C Example 1 68.23 2.64 Comparative Example 2 67.92 2.31

As shown in Table 4, the embodiment of the present invention is high in brightness, and particularly high in saturation, shows that the present invention has an effect of brightening the skin color after application.

Test Example 2 Moisturizing Effect Test

Moisturizing effect was tested for the inventive examples and comparative examples.

Example 1, 2 and Comparative Examples 1, 2 were applied to the face once a day for 6 weeks for 15 women aged 25-35 years, using TEWAMETER TM210 (C + K electronic GmbH. Germany). Transdermal moisture loss, that is, TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss) value is measured as TEWL value change ΔTEWL over time, and changes in electrical conductivity according to epidermal moisture content using CORNEOMETER CM 820 PC (C + K electronic GmbH. Germany). Moisturizing effect was measured by quantifying the moisture content of the skin from 0 to 150. The test results are shown in Table 5 below.

Moisturizing effect test result △ TEWL Corneometer value Example 1 7.6 88 Example 2 7.7 86 Comparative Example 1 5.6 44 Comparative Example 2 3.3 33

In addition, in order to test the persistence of the moisturizing effect, after using each product according to the method was measured at ΔTEWL and Corneometer Value at 2hr, 4hr, 6hr, the results are shown in Table 6 below.

Moisturizing effect persistence test △ TEWL Corneometer 2hr 4hr 6hr 2hr 4hr 6h4r Example 1 6.6 7.8 9.8 66 67 70 Example 2 6.8 8.6 9.5 67 70 72 Comparative Example 1 5.7 6.6 7.7 58 60 62 Comparative Example 2 3.3 4.3 5.5 44 45 47

As a result of the test, it was found that the ΔTEWL value of the Example was larger than that of the Comparative Example, so that the percutaneous moisture loss was effectively improved after 6 weeks, and the Example also showed a higher increase in the Corneometer Value, which measured the moisture content of the skin.

In addition, as shown in Table 6, it can be seen that the skin is very moist by increasing the ΔTEWL value and the Corneometer Value of the examples. This is interpreted to prove that the liquid crystal base is effective in penetrating moisture and nutrients.

As described above, the liquid crystal base containing the lecithin composition is provided according to the present invention, and the makeup composition containing the liquid crystal base is provided, thereby providing the advantages of the oil-in-water makeup composition such as water supply ability, skin affinity, excellent stability, and light usability. It has all the advantages of a water-in-oil type makeup composition, such as water resistance and durability, and thus can be provided a makeup cosmetic composition and a method for preparing the same, which are excellent in dispersibility and have an effect of improving color clarity and brightening skin color. It became.

Claims (11)

In the oil-in-water makeup cosmetic composition, Hydrogenated lecithin composition, including phosphatidyl choline, phosphatidyl ethanolamine and lysophosphatidyl choline, cholesteryl-based stabilizer, HLB (Hydrophilicity / Lipophilicity Balance) value Characterized in that it contains a liquid crystal base composed of phosphorus co-emulsifier, and modified fluorine, Oil-in-water makeup cosmetic composition. The method of claim 1, The composition of the lecithin composition is Phosphatidyl choline / Phosphatidyl ethanolamine / Lysophosphatidyl Choline = 67.0-71.0 / 7-11.0 / 0.1-3.0 when the weight of the total lecithin composition is 100, Oil-in-water makeup cosmetic composition. The method of claim 1, Characterized in that the blending amount of the liquid crystal base in the total makeup cosmetic composition is 0.5-5.0% by weight, Oil-in-water makeup cosmetic composition. The method of claim 1, The amount of the lecithin composition in the liquid crystal base is 2-20% by weight based on the entire liquid crystal base, Oil-in-water makeup cosmetic composition. The method of claim 1, Cholesterol-based stabilizer is one or more of cholesterol, phytosterol, cholesteryl carbonate, characterized in that the compounding amount is 0.1-5.0% by weight based on the entire liquid crystal base, Oil-in-water makeup cosmetic composition. The method of claim 1, The co-emulsifier is at least one of ethoxylate-based, polyglyceryl-based, fatty acid-based, the compounding amount is 0.3-70% by weight based on the entire liquid crystal base, Oil-in-water makeup cosmetic composition. The method of claim 1, Denatured fluorine is at least one of Trifluor C ₁₄ alkylmethicone, fluorine C _2-8 alkyldimethicone, characterized in that the compounding amount is 0.5-20.0% by weight based on the entire liquid crystal base, Oil-in-water makeup cosmetic composition. The method of claim 1, Cosmetic composition is characterized in that any one of a makeup base, foundation, emulsion pact, skin cover, lipstick, Oil-in-water makeup cosmetic composition. In the method for producing an oil-in-water makeup cosmetic composition, The co-emulsifier and the modified fluorine were heated and dissolved at 80-85 degrees Celsius, dissolved by adding a lecithin composition, and then dissolved by adding a cholesteryl system to prepare a liquid crystal base containing lecithin by cooling to room temperature. After the liquid crystal base is left for 24 hours or more, it is characterized in that the final makeup cosmetic composition by adding to the oil-in-water makeup composition, A method for producing an oil-in-water makeup cosmetic composition. The method of claim 9, Characterized in that the amount of the liquid crystal base in the total makeup cosmetic composition is 0.5-5.0% by weight, A method for producing an oil-in-water makeup cosmetic composition. The method of claim 9, Formulation of the cosmetic composition to be prepared is characterized in that any one of a makeup base, foundation, emulsion pact, skin cover, lipstick, A method for producing an oil-in-water makeup cosmetic composition.