JPS63230618A - Solid cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a solid cosmetic having excellent shape retention, feeling in use and durable make-up, containing compound polyethylene wax and low- viscosity fatty acid triglyceride or low-viscosity fatty acid diglyceride. CONSTITUTION:A solid cosmetic containing polyethylene wax having 700-2,000 average molecular weight and low-viscosity fatty acid triglyceride or low- viscosity fatty acid diglyceride as active ingredients. A triglyceride or diglyceride of low-viscosity fatty acid having short chain such as triglyceride or diglyceride of 2-ethylhexanoic acid or octanoic acid is preferable as the low-viscosity fatty acid triglyceride or diglyceride. The content of the polyethylene wax in the solid cosmetic is preferably 0.5-20wt.% and that of the low-viscosity fatty acid triglyceride is preferably 2-80wt.%. The blending ratio of the two components is preferably 1/180-10/1 based on the polyethylene wax.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial Field of Application] The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic that is excellent in shape retention, range of use, and cosmetic wearability.

[Conventional technology]

Typical solid cosmetics include lipsticks, lip balms, foundation silane sticks, stick cosmetics such as ticks, pencil-type cosmetics such as eyebrow pencils and eyeliner pencils, foundations, eye shadows, blushers, etc. There are pressed powders and oil-based cake-like cosmetics.

Among these, oil-based cosmetics are conventionally made from solid fats such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ceresin, microcrystalline wax, hydrogenated animal and vegetable fats, beeswax, castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, squalane, various synthetic ester oils, and silicone oils. Powder is dispersed in a mixed system with a liquid or semi-liquid oil such as liquid paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum.

When attempting to manufacture solid cosmetics as described above by combining these conventionally used oils, it is possible to achieve the required performance of the product by adjusting the ratio of solid fat and liquid or semi-liquid oil. Shape retention, usability, and makeup wear must be satisfied; however, it is difficult to satisfy these requirements at the same time.

The reason may be as follows. The organizational structure of oil-based cosmetics is generally thought to be one in which solid fat crystals form a network structure, and the network is filled with liquid oil.The strength and flexibility of this network structure is what makes cosmetics so effective. It plays a major role in the feeling of use and the longevity of makeup. That is, when there is a lot of solid fat (there is little liquid oil), the network structure is dense and the structure is strong, so the makeup lasts well, but it does not spread well and feels hard to the touch, resulting in poor usability. On the other hand, if there is less solid fat (more liquid oil), the mesh structure will be coarser and the structure will be softer, so makeup will not last long, but it will spread lightly.
The touch is soft and comfortable to use. In this way, it is difficult to simultaneously satisfy the performance requirements of cosmetics simply by adjusting the ratio of solid fat and liquid oil, and the same is true even by changing the type of oil.

For example, in bar-shaped cosmetics such as lipsticks and pencil-shaped cosmetics such as eyeliners, reducing the amount of solid fat (increasing liquid oil) results in products that spread easily, are soft to the touch, and have a good feel. However, when it comes to makeup retention, it has been observed that makeup tends to smudge, fade, and transfer easily.

On the other hand, increasing the amount of solid fat (reducing the amount of liquid oil) causes a deterioration in the feel of the product, such as hard spread, hard touch, and roughness, but the makeup lasts longer.

In addition, pressed powder type cosmetics have a large proportion of powder, and the above-mentioned oil component is used for the purpose of adjusting the feel during use and bonding or shape retention during molding. In this case, if the bonding force between the powder particles is insufficient, the powder may collapse during use, have low impact resistance, and may break or crack. On the other hand, if the bonding force between powder particles is too strong, it will be difficult to apply by puffing or brushing, and the appearance will deteriorate due to oily shine. It is difficult to solve this phenomenon by simply adjusting the ratio of solid fat and liquid oil, changing the type of oil, and adjusting molding conditions such as press pressure.

[Problem that the invention seeks to solve]

As mentioned above, when trying to manufacture solid cosmetics using only the combination of conventionally used oils, it is possible to simultaneously achieve the necessary properties of the product, such as shape retention, range of use, and makeup durability, as well as other desirable properties. It is difficult to satisfy.

The present invention aims to solve the drawbacks of the prior art and to provide a solid cosmetic that satisfies all of shape retention, feeling of use, and makeup durability.

[Means for solving problems]

Polyethylene wax has been conventionally used as a solidifying agent for oil-based cosmetic bars (see Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 15904/1983).

However, when low polar oils such as liquid paraffin, polyisobutylene and squalane are used as liquid oils,
Does not exhibit solidifying power.

On the other hand, when oils with hydroxyl groups in their molecules (e.g. diisostearyl malate) are used as liquid oils, they exhibit strong solidifying power; Extremely reduces stretch.

As described above, when trying to obtain a high solidifying power, it is difficult to obtain good "spreadability" during use.

However, the present inventors found that when polyethylene wax was used as a wax component, low viscosity fatty acid triglyceride or low viscosity fatty acid diglyceride (for example, 2-ethylhexanoic acid triglyceride or 2-ethylhexanoic acid diglyceride) was converted into a liquid oil. The present inventors have discovered that an oil-based solid cosmetic that has high assimilation power and good spreadability when used can be obtained by using it as an oil-based cosmetic, and has completed the present invention.

That is, the present invention is characterized by containing a polyethylene wax having an average molecular weight of 700 to 2000 and a low viscosity fatty acid triglyceride or a low viscosity fatty acid diglyceride (a low viscosity glyceride is one having a viscosity of 2000 centistokes or less at room temperature). This relates to solid cosmetics.

As the polyethylene wax in the present invention, high-density polyethylene with an average molecular weight of about 700 to 2,000 is preferable. Low-density polyethylene has poor crystallinity, so
Does not exhibit high shape retention.

Moreover, polyethylene with an average molecular weight of less than 700 exhibits a low melting point in the system, the amount of crystals at temperatures slightly higher than room temperature decreases, and the shape retention of solid cosmetics at high temperatures is poor. On the other hand, polyethylene with an average molecular weight of more than 2000 has a too high melting point and therefore requires high temperatures during the production of solid cosmetics, resulting in deterioration of other components and is difficult to produce. However, when high-density polyethylene with an average molecular weight of about 700 to 2,000 is used, there is little change in the amount of crystals at room temperature and at temperatures slightly higher than room temperature, so it exhibits good shape retention and can be solidified at an appropriate temperature during manufacturing. Cosmetics can be manufactured.

The low-viscosity fatty acid triglyceride and low-viscosity fatty acid diglyceride in the present invention need to have a low viscosity, that is, a viscosity of 2000 centistokes or less at room temperature. If the viscosity is high, when solid cosmetics are applied to the skin, the wax network structure is destroyed and a liquefied paste adheres to the skin. It becomes heavy. Therefore, low-viscosity fatty acid triglycerides or low-viscosity fatty acid diglycerides include those with low viscosity and short fatty acid chains, specifically triglycerides or diglycerides of 2-ethylhexanoic acid, octanoic acid, oleic acid, myristic acid, and isostearic acid. , especially triglycerides or diglycerides of 2-ethylhexanoic acid or octanoic acid.

It is not yet clear why a combination system of polyethylene wax and low-viscosity triglyceride or low-viscosity diglyceride exhibits high shape retention, but it is probably due to the formation of a network structure of wax crystals that are precipitated from solid cosmetics in liquid. This seems to depend on whether the force between the wax crystals is strong or weak. In a non-polar liquid such as liquid paraffin, the force acting between polyethylene wax crystals is small and only weak shape retention is exhibited. on the other hand,
It is considered that the strength is large in triglycerides and diglycerides with higher polarity and exhibits high shape retention (see Table 1).

Table 1 Hardness of gels using various oils The content of polyethylene wax in the solid cosmetic of the present invention varies depending on the dosage form of the cosmetic, but it can be contained in the range of 0.5 to 50% by weight, It is usually preferable to contain it in a range of 0.5 to 20% by weight.

Further, the content of low viscosity fatty acid triglyceride or low viscosity fatty acid diglyceride in the solid cosmetic of the present invention varies depending on the dosage form of the cosmetic, but it can be contained in the range of 1 to 90% by weight, and usually 2 to 90% by weight. The content is preferably 80% by weight.

The blending ratio of polyethylene wax and low viscosity fatty acid triglyceride or low viscosity fatty acid diglyceride in the solid cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 1/180 to 10/1 in terms of weight ratio, and in the bar-shaped solid cosmetic, it is 1/1. Particularly preferred is 20 to 1/1. If the ratio of polyethylene wax is greater than the above range, the solid cosmetic will be too hard and will not stick well. On the other hand, if the ratio of polyethylene wax is smaller than the above range, sufficient shape retention cannot be obtained.

The solid cosmetic of the present invention is produced according to a conventional method except that each of the above-mentioned components is incorporated in the respective amounts in the cosmetic composition.

That is, for example, taking a bar-shaped cosmetic as an example, the above amount of polyethylene wax, low viscosity fatty acid triglyceride or low viscosity fatty acid diglyceride, and an oily base such as fats, oils, wax, wax, etc. are heated and melted, and the necessary ingredients are melted. It is manufactured by adding optional ingredients such as pigments, fragrances, drug ingredients, etc., mixing until uniform, pouring the resulting mixture into a mold, cooling and solidifying, and molding into a rod shape.

Oil bases used in the present invention include carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice wax, Japanese wax, beeswax, ceresin wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, hydrogenated beef tallow, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, lanolin, In addition to solid or semi-solid oil bases such as petrolatum, liquid oil bases such as liquid paraffin, squalane, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, silicone oil, and synthetic ester oil may be mentioned.

There are no restrictions on optional ingredients, but typical examples include inorganic pigments such as iron oxide and titanium oxide, pigments such as lake pigments; antioxidants, anti-inflammatory agents, vitamins,
Various oil-based drug components such as antibacterial agents; examples include talc, kaolin, metal soap, mica powder, sericite, and nylon powder.

The thus obtained cosmetics include all stick-shaped solid or semi-solid cosmetics, such as stick-shaped lipsticks, lip balms, stick-shaped eye shadows, cosmetic pencils, and ticks. It will be done.

〔Example〕

Next, the present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to Examples, but the present invention is not limited to these Examples.

Note that the peeled portion is based on weight.

Example 1 (Lipstick) Each component shown in Table 2 was heated to 120° C., mixed uniformly, poured into a mold, and cooled to solidify to produce a lipstick.

The shape retention of the obtained lipstick was evaluated, and performance was evaluated by 10 expert panelists.

The results are shown in Table 3.

Table 3 (Note) Evaluation criteria ◎: 8 out of 10 respondents evaluated it as good.

○: 6 out of 10 respondents evaluated it as good.

Δ: 4 out of 10 people took up the test and evaluated it as good.

×: 10 people rated 2s or less as good.

From these results, it can be seen that the product of the present invention is excellent in shape retention, feel on use (spreadability, stickiness, smoothness, stickiness, fit), and makeup retention (resistance to discoloration and smudging).

Example 2 (Eyebrow Pencil) Each component shown in Table 4 was heated to 120°C and kneaded repeatedly using a roll mill. This was cooled to room temperature and molded by extruding the core from a nozzle using a squeeze injection machine. The core,
The eyebrow pencil was manufactured by attaching it to a piece of wood having a core-shaped groove and molding it into a pencil shape by adhesion, conjugation, and cutting.

The shape retention of the obtained eyebrow pencil was evaluated, and the performance was evaluated by 10 expert panelists.

The results are shown in Table 5.

Table 4 Table 5 (Note) Evaluation criteria ◎8 out of 8 zlOs rated 8 or more seniors.

0:10 people 2G people or more evaluated it as good.

△: Rated 4 or more out of 10 people.

×: 10 people rated 2s or less as good.

From these results, it can be seen that the product of the present invention is excellent in shape retention, usability (ease of writing, softness, smoothness, unevenness), and makeup retention (makeup does not come off).

Example 3 (Solid Powder Eye Shadow) Among the ingredients shown in Table 6, the powder part was stirred and mixed in a blender, and the oil phase, which had been uniformly dissolved by heating, was sprayed thereon and further stirred. Thereafter, it was crushed and compression molded using a molding machine to produce a solid powder eye shadow.

The resulting solid powder eyeshadow was evaluated for impact resistance and performance by 10 expert panelists.

In addition, the impact resistance evaluation is based on the drop strength of 100ca+,
○ Items that have been dropped on the floor once and do not show any abnormalities such as cracks.
, Those that were broken were evaluated as ×.

The results are shown in Table 7.

Table 7 (Note) Evaluation criteria ◎: 8 out of 10 respondents evaluated it as good.

○: Rated 6 out of 10, 6 or more.

Δ: Rated by 4 or more people out of 4 bubbles out of 10 people.

×: 10 people rated 2s or less as good.

From these results, it can be seen that the product of the present invention is excellent in shape retention, range of use (ease of spreading, sticking), and makeup retention (kinking, removal).

Claims (1)

[Claims] A solid cosmetic comprising a polyethylene wax having an average molecular weight of 700 to 2000 and a low viscosity fatty acid triglyceride or a low viscosity fatty acid diglyceride (a low viscosity glyceride is one having a viscosity of 2000 centistokes or less at room temperature).