JPH0144165B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

[Industrial Field of Application] The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic that is excellent in both feel of use and makeup durability. [Prior Art] Typical solid cosmetics include bar-shaped cosmetics such as lipsticks, lip balms, foundation sticks, and pencils; pencil-type cosmetics such as eyebrow pencils and eyeliner pencils;
There are pressed powders such as foundation, eye shadow, and blush, and oil-based cake-like cosmetics. Among these oil-based cosmetics, conventional oil-based cosmetics include carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ceresin, microcrystalline wax, hydrogenated animal and vegetable fats, solid fats such as beeswax, castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, squalane, various synthetic ester oils, etc. Powder is dispersed in a mixed system of liquid or semi-liquid oils such as silicone oil, liquid paraffin, and petrolatum. When attempting to manufacture solid cosmetics as described above by combining these conventionally used oils, it is possible to achieve the required performance of the product by adjusting the ratio of solid fat and liquid or semi-liquid oil. The feeling of use and makeup retention must be satisfied. However, it is difficult to satisfy these two requirements at the same time. The reason may be as follows. The organizational structure of oil-based cosmetics is generally thought to be one in which solid fat crystals form a network structure, and the network is filled with liquid oil.The strength and flexibility of this network structure is what makes cosmetics so effective. It plays a major role in the feeling of use and the longevity of makeup. That is, when there is a lot of solid fat (there is little liquid oil), the network structure becomes dense and the structure is strong, so the makeup lasts well, but it spreads hard and is hard to touch, giving a poor feeling of use. On the other hand, when there is less solid fat (more liquid oil), the mesh structure is coarser and the structure is weaker, making makeup less durable, but it spreads lightly, is soft to the touch, and has a good feel. In this way, it is difficult to simultaneously satisfy the performance requirements of cosmetics simply by adjusting the ratio of solid fat and liquid oil, and the same is true even by changing the type of oil. For example, in bar-shaped cosmetics such as lipsticks and pencil-type cosmetics such as eyeliners, reducing the amount of solid fat (increasing the amount of liquid oil) will result in products that spread easily, are soft to the touch, and have a good feel. When it comes to make-up lasting, it smears easily and discolors easily.
It is observed that the color transfers easily. On the other hand, if you increase the amount of solid fat (reduce the amount of liquid oil), you will experience a deterioration in the feel of the product, such as hard application, hard touch, and roughness, but your makeup will last longer. In addition, pressed powder type cosmetics have a large proportion of powder, and oil components such as those described above are used for the purpose of adjusting the feel during use and bonding or shape retention during molding. In this case, if the bonding force between the powder particles is insufficient, the powder may collapse during use, have low impact resistance, and may break or crack. On the other hand, if the bonding force between powder particles is too strong, it will be difficult to apply by puffing or brushing, and the appearance will deteriorate due to oily shine. It is difficult to solve this phenomenon by simply adjusting the ratio of solid fat and liquid oil, changing the type of oil, and adjusting molding conditions such as press pressure. [Problems to be solved by the present invention] As described above, when trying to manufacture solid cosmetics using only a combination of conventionally used oils, the necessary performance of the product, such as feel of use, long-lasting makeup, and It is difficult to simultaneously satisfy other desirable performances. The present invention aims to solve the drawbacks of the prior art and to provide a solid cosmetic that satisfies both the feeling of use and the makeup's longevity. [Means for solving the problem] The present inventors have previously determined that the number of carbon atoms in the molecule is
Mainly composed of mixed acid group triglyceride having at least one saturated linear acyl group having 20 to 26 carbon atoms and at least one unsaturated acyl group having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and saturated linear fatty acids having 20 to 26 carbon atoms and carbon as constituent fatty acids. The present inventors discovered that an excellent solid cosmetic could be obtained by blending a plastic oil containing a specific proportion of 16 to 22 unsaturated fatty acids (Japanese Patent Application No. 60-50124). Plastic fat, i.e. 20 carbon atoms in the molecule
~26 saturated straight chain acyl groups and at least one unsaturated acyl group having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, each consisting mainly of mixed acid group triglycerides, and having a constituent fatty acid composition of 30~30 to 26 saturated straight chain fatty acids having 20 to 26 carbon atoms 70% by weight, preferably 40 to 65% by weight, and 20 to 60% by weight, preferably 25 to 50% by weight of unsaturated fatty acids having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and the formula (1) (wherein R contains a total of 11 to 23 carbon atoms,
It is a saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group having at least one alkyl substituent from the carboxyl bond position to the center of the main chain. ) It has been found that by blending the branched fatty acid cholesteryl ester represented by the following formula, an excellent solid cosmetic without the above-mentioned drawbacks can be obtained. According to the present invention, there is provided a solid cosmetic that satisfies both the feeling of use and the makeup's longevity. When the plastic oil and fat used in the present invention is blended into cosmetics, it is found that it spreads very easily when applied to the skin and is soft on the touch, resulting in a remarkable effect of improving the feeling of use. It was also found that although the makeup lingering properties were improved to some extent, the improvement effect was still weak and unsatisfactory. Furthermore, the use of branched fatty acid cholesteryl ester used in the present invention in cosmetics has already been described in JP-A-56-65809 and JP-A-59-1407. has been shown to improve familiarity. In addition, although it was recognized that makeup lingering was improved to some extent, the effect was found to be weak and unsatisfactory. However, when the present inventors blended a branched fatty acid cholesteryl ester with the above-mentioned plastic oil and fat into a solid cosmetic, they discovered a remarkable synergistic effect between the two. That is, it has been found that a solid cosmetic can be obtained that has dramatically improved feel on use and long-lasting makeup compared to when these components are individually blended. Although its mechanism of action is not yet clear, it is speculated as follows. That is, it is thought that a flexible crystal network structure is formed by adding the plastic fat and oil and the branched fatty acid cholesteryl ester together. Therefore, when applied, the network structure is flexible, so the tissue is broken down appropriately, and as a result, it spreads easily, is soft to the touch, and provides a good feeling of use. On the other hand, since it is a flexible tissue, a part of the structure remains unbroken after application, and since the microscopic tissue slices are flexible, they are considered to be easy to adhere to the skin surface and have good makeup retention. The above-mentioned plastic oil and fat contained in the solid cosmetic of the present invention is preferably mainly composed of a disaturated-unsaturated mixed acid group triglyceride having two saturated linear acyl groups in the molecule. At least one of the saturated linear acyl groups in this mixed acid triglyceride has 20 to 26 carbon atoms, the other saturated linear acyl groups have 16 to 26 carbon atoms, and the unsaturated acyl group has 16 to 26 carbon atoms. 16 to 22. Among these, those in which the two saturated linear acyl groups each have 20 to 26 carbon atoms are more preferred. The remaining components of the plastic fat and oil are triglycerides whose constituent fatty acids are saturated linear fatty acids with 8 or more carbon atoms and/or unsaturated fatty acids with 8 or more carbon atoms, and these fatty acids have 16 to 24 carbon atoms. It is preferable that At this time, constituent fatty acids with less than 8 carbon atoms not only have a bad odor but also may cause skin irritation if hydrolyzed. In addition, in the present invention, a saturated linear acyl group having 20 to 26 carbon atoms and a saturated linear acyl group having 16 carbon atoms in the molecule
〜22 Mixed acid group triglyceride having at least one unsaturated acyl group each means that it is the largest component in the triglyceride, and the above disaturated monounsaturated type mixed acid group triglyceride is usually found in plastic fats and oils. This means that the content is about 35% or more, preferably 45% or more. Examples of the unsaturated fatty acids having 16 to 22 carbon atoms constituting the plastic mixed acid group triglyceride include oleic acid, linoleic acid, linoleic acid, etc. The bonding position thereof may be either α-position or β-position, but a mixture thereof may be used. preferable. Further, although there are no restrictions on the position or number of unsaturated bonds in the unsaturated fatty acid, from the viewpoint of oxidative stability, the number of unsaturated bonds is preferably 1 to 2. Saturated linear fatty acids having 20 to 26 carbon atoms include arachidic acid, behenic acid, etc.
If the number of carbon atoms is outside the range of 20 to 26, flexibility will be somewhat lacking. Furthermore, when the number of carbon atoms is 18 or less, the crystallinity becomes clearly high and it becomes brittle, so that the above-mentioned performance cannot be exhibited when blended into solid cosmetics. The content of the plastic oil and fat in the solid cosmetic of the present invention varies depending on the dosage form of the cosmetic, but it can be contained in the range of 0.1 to 80% by weight, and is usually contained in the range of 0.2 to 50% by weight. is preferable. If the concentration is below this range, sufficient effect cannot be obtained, and if the concentration is higher than this range, the effect will reach saturation, which is not only economically disadvantageous, but also the physical properties of the plastic fats and oils themselves will be expressed in the cosmetic, making it difficult to spread. The feeling of use deteriorates, and the performance of the cosmetic is impaired. The method for producing the plastic fats and oils used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but can be obtained, for example, by the method described in JP-A-60-53598. That is, a saturated linear fatty acid having 8 or more carbon atoms containing a predetermined amount or more of a saturated linear fatty acid having 20 to 26 carbon atoms, and a 8-carbon fatty acid containing a predetermined amount or more of an unsaturated fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms. It can be produced by transesterification of triglycerides in which the above-mentioned unsaturated fatty acids are constituent fatty acids, or by esterification of these fatty acids with glycerin. In order to increase the purity of the mixed acid group triglyceride in the present invention, it is preferable to remove high melting point parts and low melting point parts from the obtained triglyceride mixture by solvent fractionation or the like. The branched fatty acid (RCOOH) used in the production of the branched fatty acid cholesteryl ester used in the present invention can be one having 12 to 24 carbon atoms (11 to 23 carbon atoms as R);
-20 (R represents carbon number 13-19) is preferable. A branched fatty acid is a saturated branched fatty acid having at least one alkyl substituent from the carboxyl group bonding position to the center of the main chain. Such saturated branched fatty acids can be easily obtained from petrochemical raw materials or oleochemical raw materials. An example of such a branched fatty acid obtained from petrochemical raw materials is a branched fatty acid having a side chain at the α position, which is represented by the following formula. (In the formula, R ₁ and R ₂ are each a linear or branched saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group, and the sum of the number of carbon atoms in R ₁ and R ₂ is 12 to 18.) Preferred specific examples of saturated branched fatty acids include 5,7,7-trimethyl-2-
(1,2,3-trimethylbutyl)-octanoic acid,
Examples include 2-heptylundecanoic acid, 2-hexyldecanoic acid, 2-octyldodecanoic acid, and 2-pentylnonanoic acid. An example of a saturated branched fatty acid obtained from oleochemical raw materials is a fatty acid having a methyl branched chain represented by the following formula. (In the formula, the sum of m and n is 14, and the distribution is centered around m = n = 7.) Such a methyl branched chain fatty acid is, for example, a methyl branched chain fatty acid obtained as a by-product during the production of oleic acid dimer. It is a branched isostearic acid and is commercially available, for example, as its isoproester (eg, Emery, USA). The branched fatty acid cholesteryl ester contained in the solid cosmetic of the present invention is produced by a conventional method for producing esters from the above-mentioned branched fatty acid or its derivative and cholesterol. The content of the branched fatty acid cholesteryl ester in the solid cosmetic of the present invention varies depending on the dosage form of the cosmetic, but it can be contained in the range of 0.01 to 50% by weight, and usually in the range of 0.03 to 30% by weight. It is preferable to let A sufficient effect cannot be obtained at a low concentration below this range, and even if a high concentration above this range is blended, the effect has already reached saturation, which is disadvantageous from an economical point of view, and branched fatty acids The physical properties of cholesteryl ester itself are expressed, and problems such as noticeable stickiness are likely to occur. The method for producing the branched fatty acid cholesteryl ester in the present invention is described in JP-A-56-65900, but the method for producing the branched fatty acid cholesteryl ester used in the solid cosmetic of the present invention is limited to this. It is not something that will be done. The production of the solid cosmetic (bar-shaped cosmetic) of the present invention includes:
It is carried out according to a conventional method except that each of the above-mentioned components is included in the respective amounts in the cosmetic composition. That is, the above amount of plastic oil and fat and branched fatty acid cholesteryl ester and an oily base such as oil, fat, wax, wax, etc. are heated and melted, and optional ingredients such as pigments, fragrances, and drug ingredients are added to this mixture to make it uniform. Pour the resulting mixture into a mold, cool it,
Manufactured by solidifying and molding into a rod shape. The oil base materials used in the present invention include carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice wax, mou wax, beeswax, ceresin wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, hydrogenated beef tallow, hydrogenated castor oil, and hydrogenated jojoba. In addition to solid or semi-solid oil bases such as oil, lanolin, and petrolatum, liquid oil bases such as liquid paraffin, squalane, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, silicone oil, and synthetic ester oil may be mentioned. Although there are no restrictions on the optional components, typical examples include inorganic pigments such as iron oxide and titanium oxide, pigments such as lake pigments; antioxidants,
Various oil-based drug ingredients such as anti-inflammatory agents, vitamins, and antibacterial agents; examples include talc, kaolin, metal soap, mica powder, sericite, and nylon powder. The thus obtained cosmetics include all stick-shaped, solidified or semi-solid cosmetics, such as stick-shaped lipsticks, lip balms,
Includes stick-shaped eye shadows, cosmetic pencils, and ticks. [Examples] Next, the present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to Examples, but the present invention is not limited to these Examples. Note that parts in the examples are based on weight. Example 1 (Lipstick) Each component shown in Table 1 was heated to 80°C, mixed uniformly, poured into a mold, cooled and solidified to produce a lipstick, and its performance was evaluated by 10 expert panelists. . The results are shown in Table 2.

【table】

【table】

【table】

【table】

[Table] From the results, it can be seen that the product of the present invention is excellent in the feeling of use (spreadability, stickiness, smoothness) and makeup retention (resistance to discoloration and smudging). Example 2 (Eyebrow Pencil) Eyebrow pencils having the formulation shown in Table 3 were manufactured by the following manufacturing method, and their performance was evaluated by 10 expert panelists. The results are shown in Table 4.

[Table] (Manufacturing method) Heat each ingredient to 80℃ and repeat kneading with a roll mill. This is cooled to room temperature and molded by extruding the core from a nozzle using a squeeze injection machine. The core,
It is attached to a piece of wood with a core-shaped groove, glued, conjugated, cut, and formed into a pencil shape to produce a product.

[Table] From the results, it can be seen that the product of the present invention is excellent in terms of usability (ease of writing, softness, smoothness) and makeup retention (makeup does not come off). Example 3 (Solid powder eye shadow) Solid powder eye shadow having the composition shown in Table 5 was manufactured by the following manufacturing method, and impact resistance evaluation and performance evaluation were performed by 10 expert panelists. The results are shown in Table 6.

[Table] (Manufacturing method) The powder part is stirred and mixed in a blender, and the heated and uniformly dissolved oil phase is sprayed onto this, and further stirred.
After that, it is formed into a powder frame and compression molded using a molding machine to obtain a solid powder eye shadow.

【table】

[Table] From the results, it can be seen that the product of the present invention is excellent in the feeling of use (ease of spreading, stickiness) and makeup retention (bending, removal).

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. Mainly composed of mixed acid group triglyceride having at least one saturated linear acyl group having 20 to 26 carbon atoms and at least one unsaturated acyl group having 16 to 22 carbon atoms in the molecule, and constituent fatty acid composition is 30 to 70% by weight of a saturated straight chain fatty acid having 20 to 26 carbon atoms and 20 to 60% by weight of an unsaturated fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and the formula (1) (wherein R contains a total of 11 to 23 carbon atoms,
It is a saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group having at least one alkyl substituent from the carboxyl bond position to the center of the main chain. ) A solid cosmetic containing a branched fatty acid cholesteryl ester represented by: