JPH1161558A - Long and short composite yarn, and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a long and short composite yarn capable of providing characteristics such as a light weight, body, stiffness, soft feeling or the like, and providing clothes excellent in wearing comfort in a clothing field by coiling polyester staple fiber bunch having a specific single fiber size around a polyester hollow filament yarn. SOLUTION: This long and short composite yarn is obtained by using (A) a polyester filament yarn comprising hollow fibers having 10-40% hollow parts, as a core part, and coiling a polyester staple fiber bunch having <=0.3 d single fiber size around the core part. The long and short composite yarn can be produced by doubling the polyester staple fiber bunch B with the polyester filament yarn A while forming difference of the yarn lengths, and twisting the doubled yarn.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

The present invention relates to a long and short composite yarn, a method for producing the same, a fabric using the long and short composite yarn, and a method for producing the same. More specifically, the present invention relates to a long-short composite yarn capable of providing a fabric excellent in wearing comfort such as lightness, firmness, softness, etc., a method for producing the same, a fabric using the long-short composite yarn, and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, polyester fibers have been widely used for apparel because of their superior physical properties, chemical resistance, heat resistance, etc. as compared with natural fibers. Various studies have been made in order to obtain a super soft texture and a lightweight feeling possessed by.

[0003] For example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 7-173741 proposes a method for producing a woven fabric comprising a blended yarn of a core-sheath type composite short fiber and a thick denier shrinkable short fiber. this is,
It is to form ultra-fine fibers on the surface of the woven fabric, but it is intended to cover the lack of firmness and stiffness, which is a drawback of ultra-fine fibers, with thick denier fibers. By giving
The core-sheath type composite short fiber is made to float on the surface of the woven fabric, and the sheath component is removed by an alkali treatment to obtain an ultrafine fiber to obtain softness.

[0004] However, in the spun yarn of the uniform blend, a large amount of thick denier staple fiber appears on the yarn surface, and the single fiber hardly moves even if the shrinkage treatment is performed under the restraint of the twist of the spun yarn and the restraint of the fabric. In addition, the fine denier fiber could not sufficiently appear on the surface of the woven fabric, the soft texture effect could not be obtained, and the shrinkage caused the woven fabric to feel clogged, and had a disadvantage of poor lightness. .

Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-143829 proposes a long and short composite yarn composed of splittable composite short fibers and high-shrink filament yarns. This is to obtain a softness by splitting the spun yarn into two layers of long and short composites on the surface of the yarn and the surface of the woven fabric to obtain softness. By shrinking the yarn and completely forming two layers, the splittable conjugate short fibers are raised on the surface of the woven fabric, and further split by an acid / alkali treatment, so that split single fibers appear to obtain a soft texture. It is to try.

However, although split fibers can be made to appear on the surface of the woven fabric by this method, the shrinkage causes the woven fabric to feel clogged, and has a drawback of poor lightness.

[0007]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems, and has characteristics such as soft feeling by fine denier polyester staple fiber, light weight by hollow polyester filament, and firmness and stiffness. It is an object of the present invention to provide a long-short composite yarn capable of obtaining excellent wearing comfort when used, a method for producing the same, and a fabric using the long-short composite yarn and a method for producing the same.

[0008]

The long and short composite yarns of the present invention are:
In order to solve the above problems, the present invention has the following configuration. That is, (1) In a long and short composite yarn in which a polyester filament yarn is used as a core portion and a polyester short fiber bundle forming a sheath portion is wound around the core portion, the polyester short fiber has a monofilament fineness of 0.1. Long and short composite yarns having a denier of 3 denier or less and wherein the polyester filament yarn is a hollow fiber having a hollow portion of 10 to 40%.

(2) The polyester short fiber is a polyester (A) in which one component copolymerizes 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid in an amount of 3 mol% or more and 80 mol% or more is ethylene terephthalate. Ingredient is 80
The long-short composite yarn according to the above (1), wherein the polyester is a polyester (B) in which at least mol% is ethylene terephthalate, and is composed of a splittable conjugate fiber in which one component is divided into a plurality of components by the other component.

(3) The hollow fiber is a polyester (C) in which the outer layer component is copolymerized with 1.5 mol% or more of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 80 mol% or more is ethylene terephthalate, 80 mol% of inner layer components
The above is a composite hollow fiber comprising a polyester (D) which is ethylene terephthalate, wherein the inner layer component has a square cross-sectional shape by dissolving and removing the outer layer component. Composite yarn.

(4) The long and short composite yarn according to any one of (1) to (3), wherein the polyester filament yarn is a false twisted yarn having a false twist number satisfying the following expression. .

12000 / D ^1/2 ≦ T ≦ 32000 / D ^1/2 where D: total filament fineness T: false twist number (T / m) (5) Composite of polyester short fiber bundle and polyester filament yarn The ratio is polyester short fiber bundle / polyester filament yarn = 70-50 / 30-50
(1) to (4), wherein
The composite yarn according to any one of the above.

(6) When twisting and combining a polyester short fiber bundle having a single fiber fineness of 0.3 denier or less and a polyester filament yarn comprising a hollow fiber having a hollow portion of 10 to 40%, the above polyester is used. A method for producing a long / short composite yarn, comprising combining and twisting a short fiber bundle and a polyester filament yarn while providing a difference in supply speed per unit time.

(7) The mutual ratio of the supply speed of the polyester short fiber bundle and the polyester filament yarn is such that polyester short fiber bundle / polyester filament yarn = 1.
The method for producing a long and short composite yarn according to the above (7), wherein the length is from 01 to 1.05.

(8) A fabric comprising the long and short composite yarn according to any one of (1) to (5).

(9) After weaving using the long and short conjugate yarns described in (2) or (3) above, splitting and / or dissolving the splittable conjugate fibers and / or hollow fibers is performed. Fabric manufacturing method.

[0017]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below in detail.

The long and short composite yarns of the present invention have a polyester filament yarn at the core and a polyester short fiber bundle at the sheath.

The polyester short fibers forming the long and short conjugate yarns of the present invention are composed of splittable conjugate fibers.

The splittable conjugate fiber is composed of an easily eluting component and a hardly eluting component, and the hardly eluting component is divided into a plurality of components by the easily eluting component having an easy elution property with respect to a certain solvent. It has become.

Here, the splittable conjugate fiber is obtained by copolymerizing at least 3 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid as one component (easily eluting component), and at least 80 mol% is ethylene terephthalate. It can be produced by using the polyester (A) and the polyester (B) in which 80 mol% or more is ethylene terephthalate as the other component (a hardly soluble component).
JP, JP-B-48-33415, JP-B-49-
It can be produced by any known composite spinning method as disclosed in JP-A-29129 and the like.

The splittable conjugate fiber used in the present invention has a single fiber fineness of 0.3 denier or less after splitting. In general, a soft texture can be obtained by the number of fibers in contact with hands or skin, that is, fine denier, the bending rigidity of the fibers, and the like. Further, in order to give excellent softness and slimy feeling when touched by hand, the fiber diameter is preferably 6 μm or less, more preferably 5 μm or less. The relationship between fiber denier and diameter can be expressed by the following equation.

L = 11.91 × (d / ρ) ^1/2 where L: fiber diameter (μ) d: denier ρ: specific gravity of the material For example, in the case of polyester, the specific gravity is 1.38,
Denier corresponding to a fiber diameter of 6 microns or less is 0.3
A denier of 5 denier or less, corresponding to a fiber diameter of 5 microns or less, is 0.24 denier or less.

From the above, the single-fiber fineness of the splittable conjugate fiber of the present invention after splitting is 0.1 to obtain softness due to bending rigidity, softness due to tactile sensation, and slimy feeling.
It is important that it is less than 3 denier.

The fineness of the splittable conjugate fiber before splitting is not particularly limited, but is preferably in the range of 0.7 denier to 5 denier in consideration of spinnability since spinning is performed before splitting.

The fiber length of the splittable conjugate fiber is not particularly limited, but may be from 30 to 30 depending on the number of fluffs, ease of raising the fabric, and the number of skin contact due to appearance on the fabric surface.
A range of 102 mm is preferred. If it is shorter than 30 mm, it is not preferable from the viewpoint of spinnability, and if it exceeds 102 mm, if the spinnability and the fiber length are long, the number of fluffs is extremely reduced, which is not preferable.

Next, the polyester filament yarn used for the long and short composite yarn of the present invention will be described.

The hollow fiber used in the present invention is composed of an easily-eluting component and a hardly-eluting component. Has a square cross section and has a hollow portion.

The above hollow fiber contains 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid as an outer layer component (easily eluted component).
Use polyester (C) copolymerized at 5 mol% or more and ethylene terephthalate at 80 mol% or more, and use polyester (D) at at least 80 mol% as ethylene terephthalate as the inner layer component (difficultly eluted component). By dissolving and removing the outer layer component (easily eluted component) with the used composite hollow fiber, a hollow fiber having an inner layer component having a square cross-sectional shape can be produced. Also, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 3-124807
JP-A-4-146206, JP-A-4-4-2
It can be produced by any known composite spinning method as disclosed in JP-A-57314 and JP-A-4-272215.

The polyester filament yarn used for the long and short composite yarn of the present invention has a hollow ratio of 10 to 40% after elution of the outer layer component (easily elutable component). When the hollow ratio is less than 10%, the weight reduction is insufficient, and when the hollow ratio exceeds 40%, the weight reduction is effective, but the hollow portion is crushed or broken by an external force after the weaving process. It is not preferable because it becomes easy.

The polyester filament yarn used for the long and short composite yarn of the present invention is preferably a false twisted yarn having a false twist number satisfying the following expression.

12000 / D ^1/2 ≦ T ≦ 32000 / D ^1/2 where D: total fineness of filament T: false twist number (T / m) If less than 12000 / D ^1/2, it is close to the state of the original yarn. For this reason, the feeling of swelling is reduced, and intertwining with the polyester staple fiber bundle to unite, the entanglement becomes poor, which is not preferable. If it exceeds 32000 / D1 / ² , the hollow portion tends to be crushed or torn, which is not preferable.

The count and number of twists of the long and short composite yarns of the present invention are not particularly limited, but it is preferable to design and manufacture such that the number of cross-sectional fibers of the short fiber component in the long and short composite yarns is 40 or more. The number of twists may be in the range of twist coefficient K = 3.0 to 4.7 in consideration of the entanglement of the short fiber bundle and the filament yarn, the feel of the long and short composite yarns, and the cross-sectional shape of the hollow fiber. preferable. Here, the twist coefficient K can be expressed by the following equation.

T = K · (cotton count) ^1/2 where T: twist number (T / in) K: twist coefficient The long and short composite yarn of the present invention is composed of the polyester filament yarn and the polyester short fiber bundle described above. Since the number of fibers contacting the skin gives softness and sliminess, the polyester filament yarn is arranged at the core of the long and short composite yarns in order to make the polyester short fiber bundle appear as much as possible on the surface of the composite yarn and fabric. And a polyester short fiber bundle forming a sheath around the core.

The composite ratio of the polyester short fiber bundle and the polyester filament yarn is as follows: polyester short fiber bundle / polyester filament yarn = 70-50 / 30-50
(% By weight). If the filament yarn content exceeds 50% by weight, the filament becomes rich, and the feeling of swelling and fluff peculiar to the spun yarn is weakened, which is not preferable. If the amount of the filament yarn is less than 30% by weight, the light-weight feeling and the firmness and stiffness of the filament yarn, which are characteristics of the long and short composite yarns of the present invention, become unfavorable.

Next, the method for producing the long and short composite yarn of the present invention will be described.

The long and short composite yarn of the present invention is obtained by arranging a polyester filament yarn at the core of the long and short composite yarn, and winding a polyester short fiber bundle forming a sheath around the core. For example, when twisting and uniting using a ring spinning machine, it is preferable to provide a certain difference between the supply amounts of the two.

Assuming that the feeding speeds of the polyester short fiber bundle and the polyester filament yarn from the front roller are Vf and Vs, respectively, both speeds are Vs> Vf.
become. Here, when Vs = K · Vf (K: coefficient), it is preferable that K = 1.01 to 1.05. If K is less than 1.01, short fiber bundles and filament yarns alternately appear on the surface of the long and short composite yarns, making it difficult to obtain a sufficient soft feeling. On the other hand, if it exceeds 1.05, the yarn length difference per unit length between the short fiber bundle and the filament yarn becomes large, and there is a possibility that the entanglement of both yarns may be deteriorated when a composite yarn is formed.

Further description will be made with reference to the drawings.

FIG. 1 is a schematic view for obtaining a long and short composite yarn of the present invention, and FIG. 2 is an enlarged view of a combined portion of a polyester short fiber bundle and a polyester filament yarn of the apparatus.

The roving 1 of the polyester short fiber component is sequentially supplied to the back roller 2, the second roller 3 and the front roller to obtain a fleece 10. Here, in order to make the polyester short fiber bundle appear on the surface of the long and short composite yarns, the front top roller 4 above the front bottom roller 9 is a stepped roller having a large diameter portion and a small diameter portion.

The polyester filament yarn 6 passes through a feeder 5 through a tensor (tension adjusting device) 7, passes through a gap between a small diameter portion 8 of the front top roller 4 and a front bottom roller 9, and is combined with a fleece 10. The yarn is converged by twisting to form the long and short composite yarn of the present invention, which is wound around a tube yarn.

In the above process, the fleece 10 is used to make the polyester short fiber bundle appear on the surface of the long and short composite yarn.
Feeding speed Vs and polyester filament yarn 6
The speed of the front bottom roller 9 and the feed device 5 may be adjusted so that the relationship between the supply speeds Vf of the above-described conditions is Vs> Vf. At this time, when Vs = K · Vf (K: coefficient), it is preferable that K = 1.01 to 1.05.

In the case of weaving using the long and short composite yarns manufactured by the above method, it may be carried out according to a usual method. The long and short composite yarns of the present invention may be used for both warp yarns and weft yarns, or may be used for either warp yarns or weft yarns and interwoven with other spun yarns or filament yarns. . The structure and density of the woven fabric are not particularly limited.

The knitting of the long and short composite yarns of the present invention was carried out by 100
% Or can be performed by a usual method such as knitting with another material.

The division and / or dissolution treatment of the polyester short fiber bundle and the polyester filament yarn is performed after weaving using the long and short composite yarn of the present invention.

The division and / or dissolution treatment of the splittable conjugate fiber and / or the hollow fiber in the state of the fabric is not particularly limited. In general, division and / or dissolution treatment can be carried out by alkali treatment, but it is preferable to use both acid treatment and alkali treatment in combination because they can be made uniform in a short time. For example, maleic acid (120-130 ° C. × 3 at 1-3 g / l)
(0 min), followed by treatment with sodium hydroxide (1% ows at 80 to 98 ° C. × 40 to 50 min) for splitting and / or dissolving.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below with reference to embodiments.

The evaluation method of the present invention is described below.

(1) Texture characteristics (softness, firmness, resilience, swelling, lightness) Fabric textures (softness, firmness, resilience, swelling, lightness) are evaluated in three stages. The sensory evaluation was performed, and the results were represented by （(very good), Δ (somewhat problematic), and × (poor).

[Examples 1 to 4, Comparative Examples 1 to 14] Polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.68 as a hardly eluting component, and a polyester obtained by copolymerizing 3 mol% or more of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid as an easily eluting component. Tokiko 4
According to the method described in JP-A-7-2485, 6-split type composite fibers were obtained. At this time, the composite ratio of the easily eluted component is 20%,
The ratio was changed to 30% and 40%, and thereafter, a splittable conjugate fiber of 2.5d × 38mm and 1.5d × 38mm was obtained by a usual short fiber manufacturing process. The single fiber fineness after division is 0.33d, 0.29d, 0.25d and 0.2d, respectively.
0.18d and 0.15d.

A polyester obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.68 as an inner layer component and 1.5 mol% or more of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid as an outer layer component is described in JP-A-3-124807. According to the method, hollow fibers having a hollow ratio of 5%, 25%, and 45% after the dissolution treatment were obtained at 85d-24f. Then, 20
The processed yarn had a false twist number of 00 T / m.

Using the obtained splittable conjugate fiber and hollow fiber, a long and short conjugate yarn of the present invention was produced. First, the split type conjugate fiber is passed through a normal cotton spinning method to produce a 1.3-th roving, and is passed through the large-diameter portion of a stepped roller using the apparatus shown in FIGS. Produced 38.9th fleece. On the other hand, a hollow fiber of 85d-24f was set on a creel, passed through a feeder through a tensor (tension adjusting device), passed through a gap between the small diameter portion of the front top roller and the front bottom roller, and combined with the fleece. Number 24'S, twist coefficient K = 4.
No. 0 long and short composite yarns of the present invention were spun. At this time, in all cases, assuming that the feeding speeds of the polyester short fiber bundle and the polyester filament yarn from the front roller are Vf and Vs, respectively, both speeds are Vs / V.
f was set to 1.027.

After setting these long and short composite yarns at 90 ° C. × 20 minutes, the long and short composite yarns of the present invention are used for warp and weft, and warp × weft density = 115 × 75 / in 2 /
A one twill woven fabric was made. Thereafter, a relaxation treatment was performed in the staining step. Subsequently, it was treated with maleic acid (2 g / l at 130 ° C. × 35 minutes), and then treated with sodium hydroxide (1% ows at 98 ° C. × 50 minutes) to separate and / or split.
Alternatively, a dissolution treatment was performed and staining was performed (130 ° C. × 45 minutes).

The woven fabric thus obtained was subjected to a sensory evaluation of the feeling characteristics (softness, firmness, resilience, swelling and lightness) by panelists of ten persons, and the results are shown in Table 1.

From the results shown in Table 1, in Comparative Examples 1 to 3, the denier of the splittable conjugate fiber after splitting was as large as 0.33 d, and thus there was a problem in softness and swelling. Comparative Example 4,
Samples Nos. 6, 8, and 10 were excellent in softness and firmness, but poor in lightness and swelling aimed at because the hollowness of the polyester filament yarn in the core was low. On the other hand, in Comparative Examples 5, 7, 9, and 11, although the lightness and the swelling feeling were excellent, the hollow portion was crushed or torn due to the high hollow ratio of the polyester filament yarn at the core, and・ It was poor in terms of stiffness and resilience. In Comparative Examples 12, 13, and 14, the denier of the splittable conjugate fiber after splitting was as small as 0.15, so that the softness and swelling were good, but the elasticity and resilience were insufficient and not good.

In contrast to Comparative Examples 1 to 14 described above, Example 1
Nos. 4 to 4 have good processability and processability from raw yarn / raw cotton to finished product, and also have the target texture characteristics (softness,
Excellent evaluations were also obtained in all respects (stiffness, resilience, swelling, and lightness).

[0057]

[Table 1]

[0058]

According to the present invention, by combining the excellent performance of each of the splittable conjugate fiber and the high-profile / high-hollow fiber, a super soft texture by powder touch and peach touch, firmness, resilience, It is possible to provide a fiber product having excellent swelling feeling and excellent in wearing comfort, which has solved the problem of lightweight feeling which has been a problem of short fiber fabrics.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic side view schematically showing an example of a production method for obtaining a long and short composite yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is an enlarged front view of a main part schematically showing an example of a production method for obtaining a long and short composite yarn of the present invention.

[Description of Signs] 1: Roving yarn 2: Back roller 3: Second roller 4: Front top roller 5: Feeding device 6: Filament yarn 7: Tensor (tension adjusting device) 8: Small diameter portion of front top roller 9: Front Bottom roller 10: Fleece

Claims (9)

[Claims] 1. A long and short composite yarn comprising a polyester filament yarn as a core portion and a polyester short fiber bundle forming a sheath around the core portion, wherein the polyester short fiber has a single fiber fineness of 0.1. 3 denier or less, and the polyester filament yarn is 10 to 40%
Long and short composite yarns, which are hollow fibers having a hollow portion. 2. The polyester staple fiber according to claim 1, wherein one component is 5
A polyester (A) in which 3% by mole or more of sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is copolymerized and 80% by mole or more is ethylene terephthalate, and the other component is 80% by mole
The long and short conjugate yarn according to claim 1, wherein the polyester (B) is ethylene terephthalate, and the split component conjugate fiber is divided into a plurality of components by one component. 3. The hollow fiber is a polyester (C) whose outer layer component is copolymerized with 1.5 mol% or more of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 80 mol% or more is ethylene terephthalate. 3. The composite hollow fiber comprising a polyester (D) whose component is 80% by mole or more of ethylene terephthalate, wherein an inner layer component has a square cross-sectional shape by dissolving and removing an outer layer component. Long and short composite yarn. 4. The long and short composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein said polyester filament yarn is a false twisted yarn having a false twist number satisfying the following expression. 12000 / D ^1/2 ≦ T ≦ 32000 / D ^1/2 where D: total fineness of filament T: number of false twists (T / m) 5. The polyester short fiber bundle and the polyester filament yarn have a composite ratio of polyester short fiber bundle / polyester filament yarn = 70-50 / 30-
The long and short composite yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount is 50 (% by weight). 6. A polyester short fiber bundle comprising a polyester short fiber bundle having a single fiber fineness of 0.3 denier or less and a polyester filament yarn consisting of a hollow fiber having a hollow portion of 10 to 40% is twisted and united. A method for producing a long and short composite yarn, comprising combining and twisting a fiber bundle and a polyester filament yarn while providing a difference in supply speed per unit time. 7. The polyester staple fiber bundle / polyester filament yarn feed rate of the polyester staple fiber bundle / polyester filament yarn is 1.01-1.01.
The method for producing a long and short composite yarn according to claim 7, wherein the value is 1.05. 8. A fabric comprising the long and short composite yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 5. 9. A method for producing a fabric, comprising the step of weaving using the long and short conjugate yarns according to claim 2 or 3 and then dividing and / or dissolving the splittable conjugate fibers and / or hollow fibers. .