JPH05132831A - Base fabric for interlining and interlining - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide the subject base fabric (and interlining) excellent in stretchability, resilience and also the adherability to face cloth, containing a specified amount of side-by-side polyester staple fibers made up of two kinds of shrinking ranges. CONSTITUTION:The objective base fabric with a longitudinal extension rate under constant load of 5-15% comprises spun yarns (staple fibers) made up of >=20wt.% (pref. 20-50wt.%) of side-by-side polyester staple fibers having 40-60% of the fiber sectional area representing higher shrinking range and 60-40% of the rest lower shrinking range and 80-50% of cellulose staple fibers. The objective interlining can be obtained by dottedly coating this fabric with a resin having 120-200 deg.C melting point (e.g. a polyamide resin).

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to an interlining base cloth and an interlining suitable for a suit having excellent stretchability.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art A woolen fabric is mainly used as a suit material, and it is said that an adhesive interlining material having stretchability of about 8 to 10% is preferable. As the base fabric for the adhesive interlining, there are polyester processed yarn woven fabric, 100% cotton post-processed stretch woven fabric, and woven fabric using core yarn using polyurethane as the core.

[0003]

The base fabric for the interlining of the core yarn using polyurethane as the core thread and cotton as the sheath is as follows.
Although it has excellent stretchability and recovery characteristics, the stretchability is too large, so that it is difficult to apply the adhesive resin in a dot shape, and it is difficult to double-spot the two types of resin in a dulma shape. Although the interlining of the polyester processed yarn has good stretchability and recovery characteristics, there is a problem that the adhesive force between the resin and the outer material is weak because the interlining surface has no fluff. Although the post-processing of 100% cotton gives stretchability by mechanical indentation, it has a low stretchability and poor recovery characteristics, and there is a problem that stretchability deteriorates due to repeated dry cleaning. The present invention has an appropriate stretchability and provides an interlining base cloth and an interlining having good adhesiveness to a surface material, and intends to solve the problems of the conventional interlining base cloth and interlining. Is.

[0004]

The present invention employs the following means in order to solve the above problems. That is, the present invention provides at least 20 side-by-side polyester staples in which 40 to 60% of the fiber cross section is made of a high shrink resin and the remaining 60 to 40% is made of a low shrink resin.
An interlining base fabric comprising spun yarn containing 20% by weight of the polyester staple, 20 to 50% by weight of the polyester staple, and 80 to 50% by weight of the cellulose fiber staple. The rate is 5 to 15%.
Alternatively, the interlining base fabric described in 2 and the interlining base fabric have a melting point of 120 ° C.
2. A resin having a temperature of up to 200 ° C. is applied in dots.
The interlining material described in any one of 2 and 3. The present invention will be described in detail below.

In the present invention, 40 to 60% of the fiber cross section
Is a high-shrink resin and the remaining 60 to 40% is a low-shrink resin. A spun yarn containing at least 20% by weight of side-by-side polyester staple is used.
The reason for using such side-by-side polyester staples is to generate coil-like crimping, to provide stretchability, and to improve recoverability. 40-60% of the fiber cross section consists of a high shrink resin,
Shrinkage rate of 1 when dry stapled at 160 ° C when stapled alone
5-40%, and the remaining 60-40%
Is a low-shrink resin and has a shrinkage of 0 to 10% at 160 ° C. in dry heat when it is used alone as a staple. Staples obtained by spinning side-by-side using the resins having different contraction rates are used.

The side-by-side staples preferably have a uniform or unequal length with a thickness of 1.0 to 3.0 denier. When it is less than 1.0 denier, the shrinkage force of the coil crimp is small, which is not preferable. On the other hand, when it exceeds 3.0 denier, the shrinkage force of the coil crimp is large, but the texture is coarse and hard, which is not preferable. The average fiber length is 38m.
It is preferably m to 51 mm.

2 such side-by-side staples
Spun yarn containing 0% by weight or more, preferably 20 to 50% by weight
The remaining part is spun yarn composed of 80 to 50% by weight of cellulose fiber to be used as the base fabric for the interlining. The spun yarn count is preferably English cotton count of 20 to 80'S and the twist coefficient is It is preferably 2.5 to 4.0 by the inch system. When the count is less than 20'S, it becomes unfavorable because it becomes thick as a base fabric for adhesive interlining, while when it exceeds 80'S, stretchability and recovery properties are unfavorably deteriorated. If the twist coefficient is less than 2.5, the ironing resistance is poor and the weaving property is poor, and if it exceeds 4.0, the crimp expression of the polyester staple during dyeing is poor, which is not preferable.

The spun yarn is used as a warp yarn and / or a weft yarn to form a plain weave or a twill weave. At this time, the size box temperature is set to 60 ° C. or less as a sizing condition.
The drying temperature is 1 in the cylinder and chamber.
It is necessary to set the temperature below 00 ° C. When it is carried out under a temperature condition higher than this, the development of stretchability in the dyeing process is hindered. Degreasing and refining to the greige machine at 95 ℃ ~ 105 ℃ 40
It is carried out on a jet dyeing machine under the conditions of 90 minutes. After that, heat set dyeing (jet dyeing machine) is performed for finishing to obtain an interlining fabric. The constant load elongation of this base cloth is preferably 5 to 15%, more preferably 7 to 10%.

The base fabric for interlining thus obtained is provided with a resin such as a polyamide resin or a polyethylene resin in a double spot or a single spot on the surface thereof. Here, it is preferable to use a resin having a melting point of 120 ° C to 200 ° C. This is because when the melting point exceeds 200 ° C., the stretchability of the interlining base fabric deteriorates, the texture becomes hard, and the material becomes paper-like. The measuring method used in the present invention is as follows.

Constant load elongation rate JIS L 1096 6.14.1 B method Material is 5 cm width × 20 cm, (after 1.5 kg load 1 minute)
To measure. Shrinkage rate of dry heat 160 ° C. JIS L 1015 7.15 Dry heat shrinkage measurement method Melting point JIS L 1015 7.16.1 Melting point measurement method Recoverability JIS L 1096 6.14.2 B1 method (1 minute after loading, remove Adhesive strength JIS L 1086 Peel strength measurement method Followability Adhesion of surface fabric / adhesive interlining and visual inspection by repeated spraying and drying

[0011]

【Example】

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate containing 5 sodium isophthalic acid was used as a high shrinkage type resin, and a low shrinkage rate resin of polyethylene terephthalate was used for each of the fiber cross sections of 1
The fibers were spun by a side-by-side composite spinning nozzle arranged in ½, stretched, and cut into 1.8 denier and 51 mm. 100% of the fiber is spun count 30'S /
No. 1 was spun yarn with a twist number of 17.5 T / inch (twist coefficient of 3.2). This yarn was used as a warp yarn, a cotton yarn 20 ′S / 1 was used as a weft yarn, and a plain weave was woven at a density of (40 yarns × 26 yarns) / inch. In this case, the high shrinkage type has a dry heat shrinkage factor of 160 ° C of 3
5.0%, low shrinkage type has a dry heat shrinkage of 160 ° C of 6.
It was 0%. At this time, the sizing condition is to use a sizing material containing modified starch / polyvinyl alcohol / acrylic acid ester as a main component and a size box temperature of 55 ° C.
And the cylinder drying temperature was set to 95 ° C. and gluing was performed. The greige was subjected to desizing and refining at 100 ° C. for 60 minutes using a circular. After pre-heat setting, after dyeing with a circular at 130 ℃ for 60 minutes, 160 ℃
Finishing heat setting is performed under the condition of 10.5%
A base cloth for interlining was obtained. The recoverability was good. further,
Polyethylene resin having a melting point of 180 ° C. and melting point of 190
The polyamide resin at ℃ was applied as a double dot based on the polyamide resin. The results are shown in Table 1.

Example 2 Polyethylene terephthalate containing 5 sodium isophthalic acid was used as a high-shrink type resin, and polyethylene terephthalate low-shrink resin was ½ of each fiber cross section.
It was spun by a side-by-side composite spinning nozzle arranged in No. 1 and stretched, and then cut into 1.8 denier and 51 mm. 30% of the fiber and 50 m of polynosic 1.5 denier
70% of m-cut fibers were uniformly mixed and spun at 30'S / 1 under the conditions of a twist coefficient of 3.1 (actual twist number: 17T / inch). The high shrinkage type resin had a dry heat shrinkage of 35% at 160 ° C., and the low shrinkage type resin had a dry heat shrinkage of 6%. The yarn is used as a warp yarn, and the weft yarn is tough cell 20'S /
1 was used to weave a plain weave with a greige density of 40 × 26 / inch. In addition, as the sizing conditions at this time, a sizing material containing modified starch / polyvinyl alcohol / acrylic acid ester as a main component is used, and the size box temperature is set to 55 ° C.
The cylinder drying temperature was set to 95 ° C. to carry out sizing. Desizing and refining were carried out on the greige machine at 100 ° C. for 60 minutes using a circular. Then, after pre-heat setting, dyeing with a disperse dye at 130 ° C., dyeing the cotton side with a direct dye, and finishing heat setting at 160 ° C., a base fabric for interlining with a warp elongation of 9.8% was obtained. .. Melting point 1
A polyethylene resin having a temperature of 80 ° C. and a polyamide resin having a melting point of 190 ° C. were applied in double dots based on the polyamide resin. The results are shown in Table 1.

Conventional Example 1 Cotton yarn 30'S is used as a warp and a weft (40 yarns × 26
A plain woven fabric was woven at a density of (book) / inch. The greige fabric was subjected to a relaxation treatment in the warp direction during mercerizing, and after dyeing, it was tensioned in the weft direction during heat setting and then relaxed in the warp direction to obtain an interlining base fabric having a warp elongation of 5.5%. In addition, melting point 180 ℃
The polyethylene resin and the polyamide resin at 190 ° C. were applied in double dots based on the polyamide resin.

Conventional Example 2 Polyester processed yarn 50 denier / 24 filament (single heater false twist) was used as warp and weft (75 yarns × 68 yarns) / a plain weave fabric with a density of inch. The greige fabric was relaxed after desizing, dyed with a jet dyeing machine, and then finished and set to obtain a base fabric for interlining having stretchability of 15.5% in the warp direction and stretchability of 8% in the weft direction. In addition, a polyethylene resin having a melting point of 180 ° C. and a polyamide resin of 190 ° C. were applied in double dots based on the polyamide resin.

[0015]

[Table 1]

In Table 1, the constant load elongation rate is 5 to 15
%, The recoverability is 60% or more, the adhesive strength is 500 g or more within the acceptable range, and the followability to the surface material shows that ◎ is good, ○ is slightly good, △ is difficult, and comprehensive evaluation Indicates that ⊚ is the best, ○ is good, Δ is slightly difficult, and x is difficult. As the evaluation of the optimal interlining base fabric for suits, the constant load elongation rate was 10.5% in Examples 1 and 2, respectively.
The value is 9.8%, which is a good value, but it is 5.5% in Conventional Example 1 and slightly low, and 15.5% in Conventional Example 2 is high. The recoverability is 70% in Example 1, 65% in Example 2,
Conventional Example 1 is low at 45%, and Conventional Example 2 is 60%. 6
1% or more is preferable. Regarding the evaluation as an interlining material, the adhesive strength was 550 g and 610 g in Examples 1 and 2, and 510 g and 460 g in Conventional Examples 1 and 2, which were somewhat difficult.
It is preferably g or more. The ability to follow the surface material is good in both Examples 1 and 2, but in Conventional Example 1 there is some difficulty, and in Conventional Example 2 it is slightly good.
Example 2 was the best, Example 1 was good, and Conventional Examples 1 and 2 were difficult.

[0017]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION The base fabric for interlining of the present invention is excellent in stretchability and recovery, and the interlining using the same has excellent adhesion to the outer material.

─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁵ Identification number Office reference number FI technical display location D03D 15/00 E 7199-3B D06M 17/00

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. An interlining base fabric made of a spun yarn containing at least 20% by weight of side-by-side polyester staple in which 40 to 60% of a fiber cross section is made of a high shrink resin and the remaining 60 to 40% is made of a low shrink resin. .. 2. The polyester staples 20 to 50.
The base fabric for interlining according to claim 1, wherein the base fabric comprises 80% by weight and 80% by weight of the cellulose fiber staple. 3. The base fabric for interlining according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the constant load elongation in the warp direction is 5 to 15%. 4. The interlining according to claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein a resin having a melting point of 120 ° C. to 200 ° C. is applied to the interlining base cloth in a dot shape.