JP6762491B2 - 皮膚の外観を改善するための組成物及び方法 - Google Patents
皮膚の外観を改善するための組成物及び方法 Download PDFInfo
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- JP6762491B2 JP6762491B2 JP2017532869A JP2017532869A JP6762491B2 JP 6762491 B2 JP6762491 B2 JP 6762491B2 JP 2017532869 A JP2017532869 A JP 2017532869A JP 2017532869 A JP2017532869 A JP 2017532869A JP 6762491 B2 JP6762491 B2 JP 6762491B2
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- Prior art keywords
- skin
- acrylate
- meth
- styrene
- skin tightening
- Prior art date
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims description 143
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims description 27
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- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 claims description 27
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- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acrylate Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 25
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- 239000011787 zinc oxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc stearate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- GPYYEEJOMCKTPR-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc;dodecanoate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O GPYYEEJOMCKTPR-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229910001928 zirconium oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- OENHQHLEOONYIE-JLTXGRSLSA-N β-Carotene Chemical compound CC=1CCCC(C)(C)C=1\C=C\C(\C)=C\C=C\C(\C)=C\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C OENHQHLEOONYIE-JLTXGRSLSA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
- A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
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Description
様々な実施形態によれば、組成物は、少なくとも1種の熱可塑性エラストマー、少なくとも1種の接着性ポリマー、及び少なくとも1種のフィラーを含み、これらは組成物中に一緒に会合を形成する。溶媒、シリコーンエラストマー、湿潤剤、水、及び顔料等の追加の任意選択の成分も、組成物中に含んでよい。
様々な実施形態によれば、少なくとも1種の熱可塑性エラストマーは、スチレンと、2〜5個の炭素原子を含有し、1つ又は2つのエチレン性不飽和を含む炭化水素のモノマーとの、少なくとも2つのガラス転移温度(「Tg」)を有する非晶質炭化水素ブロックコポリマーから選択される。ブロックコポリマーは、炭化水素に可溶性であっても、油性相中に分散性であってもよい。
本開示による組成物は、更に、本明細書中に参照により組み込まれたWO2015/091513に記載のもの等の、参照しやすいように本明細書において「油分散体」と称する非水性分散体中で安定化された、C1〜C4アルキル(メタクリレート)ポリマーのポリマー粒子から選択される少なくとも1種の接着性膜形成ポリマーを含む。
組成物は、任意選択により少なくとも1種のフィラーを含んでもよい。フィラーは、本質的に無機又は有機であってよく、いかなる形状であってもよい。様々な実施形態において、フィラーは、約100nm超の粒径、及び/又は約200m2/g超の比表面積を有し得る。
本開示による組成物は、任意選択により、溶媒、シリコーンエラストマー、湿潤剤、水、及び顔料等の追加の成分を更に含んでよい。
組成物は、少なくとも1種の溶媒を含んでもよい。任意選択により、組成物は、室温(25℃)で約100Pa超、例えば約500Pa超、又は約1000Pa超の蒸気圧を有する溶媒から選択される少なくとも1種の溶媒を含んでよい。様々な実施形態において、組成物は、室温(25℃)で約25Pa未満の蒸気圧を有する溶媒を含まない又は実質的に含まない。更なる実施形態において、組成物は、室温(25℃)で約100Pa超、例えば500Pa超、又は1000Pa超の蒸気圧を有する少なくとも1種の溶媒、及び室温(25℃)で約100Pa未満、例えば約50Pa未満、又は約25Pa未満の蒸気圧を有する少なくとも1種の溶媒を含んでよい。
組成物は、少なくとも1種のシリコーンエラストマーを任意選択により更に含んでもよい。驚くべきことに、特定の実施形態において、少なくとも1種のシリコーンエラストマーは、膜の機械的又は光学的特性に著しく影響を与えることなく、膜の厚さ及び耐水性等の特性を改善することができる。その他の実施形態において、少なくとも1種のシリコーンエラストマーの添加は、皮脂による湿潤性を減らすことができ、膜の引き締め特性の損失の防止に役立つ。少なくとも特定の実施形態において、1%超の活性材料(AM)、例えば2%超のAMを有するシリコーンエラストマーを選択することが有利であり得る。
任意選択により、本開示による組成物は、少なくとも1種の湿潤剤又は保湿剤を含んでもよい。驚くべきことに、少なくとも特定の実施形態において、少なくとも1種の湿潤剤は、膜の機械的特性に悪影響を与えることなく、組成物により皮膚上に形成される膜の光学的特性及び感触を改善することができる。
任意選択により、少なくとも特定の実施形態において、本開示による組成物に水を添加してもよい。驚くべきことに、特定の非限定的な実施形態において、水は、組成物により皮膚上に形成された膜の特性、例えばヤング率、透明性、凝集力、及び厚さを改善することができる。
組成物は、例えば特定の皮膚欠陥を隠すのに有用であり得る着色膜を皮膚上に作るために、少なくとも1種の着色料を更に含んでよい。様々な実施形態において、少なくとも1種の着色料は、染料、顔料、及び真珠光沢剤から選択してよい。
本開示による組成物を皮膚に適用するとき、少なくとも1種の熱可塑性エラストマー、少なくとも1種の接着性ポリマー、及び少なくとも1種のフィラーが一緒に、皮膚上に膜を作るマトリックスを形成する。本明細書に記載の組成物によって形成される膜は、迅速に形成し、長持ちで耐久性があり、皮膚を引き締める膜に有利な光学的特性、例えば透明性、マット効果、及びソフトフォーカス効果を有し、これは皮膚欠陥を不鮮明にするのに役立ち、したがって皮膚欠陥が目立たなくなる。
皮膚の外観を改善するための方法であって、本開示による組成物を皮膚に適用して、皮膚上に膜を形成する工程を含む方法も開示する。方法は、皮膚を引き締め、例えば、皺、目の下のたるみ等の外観を無くし若しくは低減し、かつ/又は皮膚欠陥を不鮮明にし、若しくは隠し、例えばニキビ、毛穴、しみ等をカモフラージュすることを含む。
全ての実施例の膜のヤング率の決定は、以下の通りだった。膜は、8インチのドローダウンバーを使用して、テフロン(登録商標)板上で溶液をキャストし、終夜、オーブン中、40℃で乾燥することによって作製した。TA instruments社製のDMA Q800FRを使用して、乾燥膜の応力-歪み応答を測定した。速度100%歪み/分、32℃で0%歪みから200%歪みの変形を与えた。次いで、膜のヤング率を、線形粘弾性レジームにおける応力-歪み曲線の勾配から決定した。
SEM用の膜試料を、DMA測定用のものと同じ方法で作製した。後続して、膜を5×5mmの断片に切り分け、両面カーボンテープを有するステージ上に乗せた。試料をHitachi TM-1000卓上SEMで走査した。
試料溶液のレオロジーを、TA instruments社製のRheometer AR-G2を使用して測定した。空隙200μmで直径20mmの平行板を用いた動的振動モードを利用した。
膜は、8インチのドローダウンバーを使用して、透明のプラスチック膜上で溶液をキャストし、実験台の上で3時間乾燥することによって作製した。BYK Haze-Guard機器を使用して、膜の透明性及びヘイズを測定した。
膜は、8インチのドローダウンバーを使用して、透明のプラスチック膜上で溶液をキャストし、実験台の上で3時間乾燥することによって作製した。BYK光沢計を使用して、膜の光沢及びマット感を測定した。
膜は、8インチのドローダウンバーを使用して、テフロン(登録商標)板上で溶液をキャストし、終夜、オーブン中、40℃で膜を乾燥することによって作製した。膜を剥がし取り、5×5cmの断片に切断した。各断片を使用して、2mLの水で充填したシンチレーションバイアルの上部を覆い、一切れのパラフィルムを使用して側面から膜の断片を包んだ。各バイアルの質量並びに種々の時点をすぐに測定した。種々の膜の水分減量を、種々の時点に対してグラフ化し、蒸発曲線と線形関数をすり合わせて蒸発を計算した。膜の水蒸気透過性(P)を次式から計算するが、式中、(J)は水蒸気透過流束であり、(I)は膜の厚さであり、(Δp)は、バイアル中膜によって密封されている空間と膜の外側、すなわち周囲との間の水蒸気圧差である。
P=J/(Δp/l)
膜は、8インチのドローダウンバーを使用して、スライドガラス上で溶液をキャストし、実験台の上で終夜乾燥することによって作製した。スライドガラス上の膜の接触角は、Biolin Scientific Attension Tensiometerによって測定した。
膜は、8インチのドローダウンバーを使用して、透明のプラスチック膜上で溶液をキャストし、1時間の間、定期的に計量することによって作製した。
膜は、8インチのドローダウンバーを使用して、ニトリルバンド上で溶液をキャストし、1時間の間、乾燥させることによって作製した。乾燥に伴い膜が縮んだら、ニトリルバンドの表面を画像分析によって測定する。
膜は、ドローダウンバー(2ミル)を使用して透明なプラスチック膜上で溶液をキャストし、実験台上で1時間乾燥させることによって作製した。Minolta比色計を使用して、膜の並びに皮膚の色合いシートリファレンス及び白黒リファレンスのL、a*、b*及びYを測定し、膜の透明性、均質化機能、及びホワイトニング機能を計算した。
鼻/頬の領域に沿ってニキビ及び毛穴を有する3名のパネリストの頬上に膜を適用し、6時間置いた。前/後の写真を通して継続性を評価した。輝き、毛穴の隠蔽、欠陥被覆率を、前と後の両方の時間について評価した。
熱可塑性エラストマー、接着性ポリマー、及びフィラーの会合
熱可塑性エラストマーKraton(25%)を、機械式スターラーと一緒にイソパラフィン油中に分散させ、90℃に加熱した。全てのKratonポリマーが溶解し、ポリマー溶液が透明になるまで1〜2時間、90℃で攪拌を続けた。所望の量の油分散体(イソドデカン中49%)及びシリル化シリカを、プラスチック容器中のKraton/イソパラフィン油溶液に特定の比で添加し、溶液を2500rpm/分の高速ミキサーで5分間混合した。最終溶液を室温で維持し、溶媒の蒸発を回避するために密封した。
熱可塑性エラストマー:接着性ポリマーの比
実施例2の組成物を調製するための手順は、実施例1で上述したものと同じである。以下のTable 2(表2)は、それらから形成された膜を有する本開示による配合物(Ex.2a、2b、2c)と、2種の比較用組成物(Ex.2C-1、2C-2)との比較を示す。
種々の接着性ポリマーの比較
熱可塑性エラストマーKraton(25%)を、機械式スターラーと一緒にイソパラフィン油中に分散させ、90℃に加熱した。全てのKratonポリマーが溶解し、ポリマー溶液が透明になるまで1〜2時間、90℃で攪拌を続けた。所望の量の接着性ポリマー及びシリル化シリカを、プラスチック容器中のKraton/イソパラフィン油溶液に特定の比で添加し、溶液を2500rpm/分の高速ミキサーで5分間混合した。最終溶液を室温で維持し、溶媒の蒸発を回避するために密封した。
皮膚欠陥を隠す膜の効力
実施例4A:組成
実施例4Aの組成物を調製するための手順は、実施例1で上述したものと同じである。以下のTable 4A(表4)は、皮膚上に膜を形成する本開示に従って調製された組成物(Ex.4a)を示す。
実施例4Aに従って調製された膜を、等級4の目元の皺及び目の下のたるみを有する6名の試験対象並びに等級4の目尻の皺を有する6名の試験対象の眼域の皮膚に適用した。膜を10分間乾燥させ、その後、目元の皺及び目尻の皺の外観上の改善を定期的に評価した。結果をTable 4B(表5)に示す。
保湿性を改善する湿潤剤の添加
熱可塑性エラストマーKraton(25%)を、機械式スターラーと一緒にイソパラフィン油中に分散させ、90℃に加熱した。全てのKratonポリマーが溶解し、ポリマー溶液が透明になるまで1〜2時間、90℃で攪拌を続けた。所望の量の接着性ポリマー及びシリル化シリカを、プラスチック容器中のKraton/イソパラフィン油溶液に特定の比で添加し、溶液を2500rpm/分の高速ミキサーで5分間混合し、次いでグリセリンを添加し、混合し続けた。最終溶液を室温で維持し、溶媒の蒸発を回避するために密封した。
水の添加
熱可塑性エラストマーKraton(25%)を、機械式スターラーと一緒にイソパラフィン油中に分散させ、90℃に加熱した。全てのKratonポリマーが溶解し、ポリマー溶液が透明になるまで1〜2時間、90℃で攪拌を続けた。所望の量の接着性ポリマー及びシリル化シリカを、プラスチック容器中のKraton/イソパラフィン油溶液に特定の比で添加し、溶液を2500rpm/分の高速ミキサーで5分間混合し、次いでグリセリン及び/又は水を添加し、混合し続けた。最終溶液を室温で維持し、溶媒の蒸発を回避するために密封した。
シリコーンエラストマーの添加
熱可塑性エラストマーKraton(25%)を、機械式スターラーと一緒にイソパラフィン油中に分散させ、90℃に加熱した。全てのKratonポリマーが溶解し、ポリマー溶液が透明になるまで1〜2時間、90℃で攪拌を続けた。所望の量の油分散体(イソドデカン中49%)、シリル化シリカ、及びシリコーンエラストマー(18%イソドデカンにおけるDC EL-8040 IDシリコーン有機ブレンド)を、プラスチック容器中のKraton/イソパラフィン油溶液に特定の比で添加し、溶液を2500rpm/分の高速ミキサーで5分間混合した。最終溶液を室温で維持し、溶媒の蒸発を回避するために密封した。
種々のシリコーンエラストマーの評価
実施例8の組成物を調製するための手順は、実施例7で上述したものと同じである。以下のTable 8(表9)は、種々のシリコーンエラストマー(Ex.8a、8b、8c、8d)で形成された膜の評価を示す。
種々のフィラーの評価
実施例9の組成物を調製するための手順は、実施例7で上述したものと同じである。以下のTable 9(表10)は、比較用膜(Ex.9C-1、9C-2、9C-3)と比べた、種々のシリカ粒子を有する本開示に従って形成された膜(Ex.9a、9b)の評価を示す。
種々のフィラー比の比較
実施例10の組成物を調製するための手順は、実施例7で上述したものと同じである。以下のTable 10(表11)は、種々の量のシリカ粒子で形成された膜(Ex.10a、10b、10c、10d)の評価を示す。
溶媒の評価
実施例11の組成物を調製するための手順は、実施例7で上述したものと同じである。以下のTable 11(表12)は、室温で1000Pa超の蒸気圧を有する溶媒を含まない比較用膜(Ex.11C-1)と比べた、室温で1000Pa超の蒸気圧を有する溶媒を有する本開示に従って形成された膜(Ex.11)の評価を示す。
顔料の添加
熱可塑性エラストマーKraton(25%)を、機械式スターラーと一緒にイソパラフィン油中に分散させ、90℃に加熱した。全てのKratonポリマーが溶解し、ポリマー溶液が透明になるまで1〜2時間、90℃で攪拌を続けた。所望の量の油分散体(イソドデカン中49%)、シリル化シリカ、及びシリコーンエラストマー(18%イソドデカンにおけるDC EL-8040 IDシリコーン有機ブレンド)、及び顔料を、プラスチック容器中のKraton/イソパラフィン油溶液に特定の比で添加し、溶液を2500rpm/分の高速ミキサーで5分間混合した。最終溶液を室温で維持し、溶媒の蒸発を回避するために密封した。
Claims (19)
- a. スチレンと、2〜5個の炭素原子を含有し、1つ又は2つのエチレン性不飽和を含む炭化水素のモノマーとの、0℃未満の第1のTg及び25℃超の第2のTgを有する、非晶質炭化水素ブロックコポリマーから選択される少なくとも1種の熱可塑性エラストマー、
b. 非水性分散体中で安定化された、C1〜C4アルキル(メタ)アクリレートポリマーのポリマー粒子から選択される少なくとも1種の接着性膜形成ポリマー、及び
c. 少なくとも1種のフィラー
を含み、100kPaを超えるヤング率を有する膜を形成する、皮膚引き締め組成物。 - 前記少なくとも1種の熱可塑性エラストマーが、
- スチレン-エチレン/プロピレンコポリマー、スチレン-エチレン/ブタジエンコポリマー、スチレン-エチレン/ブチレンコポリマー、スチレン-ブタジエン、又はスチレン-イソプレンコポリマーから選択されるジブロックコポリマー、
- スチレン-エチレン/プロピレン-スチレンコポリマー、スチレン-エチレン/ブタジエン-スチレンコポリマー、スチレン-イソプレン-スチレンのコポリマー、又はスチレン-ブタジエン-スチレンのコポリマーから選択されるトリブロックコポリマー、及び
- これらの混合物
から選択される、請求項1に記載の皮膚引き締め組成物。 - 前記C 1 〜C 4 アルキル(メタ)アクリレートポリマーが、80質量%〜100質量%のC1〜C4アルキル(メタ)アクリレート及び0質量%〜20質量%のエチレン性不飽和酸モノマーからなるポリマーから選択される、請求項1に記載の皮膚引き締め組成物。
- 前記C 1 〜C 4 アルキル(メタ)アクリレートポリマーが、
- 1種又は複数のC1〜C4アルキル(メタ)アクリレートモノマーからなるポリマー、及び
- C1〜C4(メタ)アクリレートと(メタ)アクリル酸又は無水マレイン酸とのコポリマーから本質的になるポリマー
から選択される、請求項1に記載の皮膚引き締め組成物。 - 前記1種又は複数のC1〜C4アルキル(メタ)アクリレートモノマーが、メチル(メタ)アクリレート、エチル(メタ)アクリレート、n-プロピル(メタ)アクリレート、イソプロピル(メタ)アクリレート、n-ブチル(メタ)アクリレート及びtert-ブチル(メタ)アクリレートから選択される、請求項4に記載の皮膚引き締め組成物。
- 前記非水性分散体がイソドデカンを含む、請求項1に記載の皮膚引き締め組成物。
- 前記少なくとも1種のフィラーが、100nm超の粒径及び/又は200m2/g超の比表面積を有するフィラーから選択される、請求項1に記載の皮膚引き締め組成物。
- 前記少なくとも1種のフィラーが、シリカ粒子から選択される、請求項1に記載の皮膚引き締め組成物。
- 前記少なくとも1種のフィラーが、任意選択によりトリメチルシリル基で表面修飾されていてもよい、疎水性シリカエアロゲル粒子から選択される、請求項8に記載の皮膚引き締め組成物。
- 任意選択により揮発性炭化水素系油及び揮発性シリコーン油から選択されてもよい、室温(25℃)で1000Pa超の蒸気圧を有する溶媒から選択される少なくとも1種の溶媒を更に含む、請求項1に記載の皮膚引き締め組成物。
- 前記少なくとも1種の溶媒が、分枝状C8〜C16アルカン、C8〜C16イソアルカン、イソドデカン、イソデカン、イソヘキサデカン、オクタメチルテトラシロキサン、デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン、ドデカメチルシクロヘキサシロキサン、ヘプタメチルオクチルトリシロキサン、ヘキサメチルジシロキサン、デカメチルテトラシロキサン、ドデカメチルペンタシロキサン、及びこれらの混合物から選択される、請求項10に記載の皮膚引き締め組成物。
- シリコーンエラストマー、湿潤剤、水、及び着色料から選択される少なくとも1種の追加の成分を更に含む、請求項1に記載の皮膚引き締め組成物。
- 前記少なくとも1種の熱可塑性エラストマー、少なくとも1種の接着性ポリマー、及び少なくとも1種のフィラーが、組成物の質量に対して、合わせて10質量%超、好ましくは15質量%超、最も好ましくは20質量%超の量で存在する、請求項1に記載の皮膚引き締め組成物。
- 熱可塑性エラストマー:接着性ポリマーの比が、1:10〜10:1、好ましくは1:5〜5:1、最も好ましくは1:1〜8:1の範囲である、請求項1に記載の皮膚引き締め組成物。
- 前記組成物が、100Pa超(10%歪みで)の粘稠度G*及び45°未満の位相角を有する、請求項1に記載の皮膚引き締め組成物。
- 500kPa超のヤング率を有する、請求項1から15のいずれか一項に記載の組成物から形成される皮膚引き締め膜。
- ヤング率が1000kPa超である、請求項16に記載の皮膚引き締め膜。
- 皮膚の外観を改善するための方法であって、請求項1から15のいずれか一項に記載の組成物を皮膚に適用することによって、前記皮膚上に膜を形成する工程を含み、
前記皮膚上に形成された前記膜のヤング率が、500kPa超である、方法。 - 前記膜のヤング率が1000kPa超である、請求項18に記載の方法。
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JP6762491B2 (ja) | 2014-12-18 | 2020-09-30 | ロレアル | 皮膚の外観を改善するための組成物及び方法 |
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