JP5612420B2 - 油性固形化粧料 - Google Patents
油性固形化粧料 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP5612420B2 JP5612420B2 JP2010220059A JP2010220059A JP5612420B2 JP 5612420 B2 JP5612420 B2 JP 5612420B2 JP 2010220059 A JP2010220059 A JP 2010220059A JP 2010220059 A JP2010220059 A JP 2010220059A JP 5612420 B2 JP5612420 B2 JP 5612420B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- oily solid
- oil
- component
- cosmetics
- solid cosmetic
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- BWOROQSFKKODDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxobismuth;hydrochloride Chemical compound Cl.[Bi]=O BWOROQSFKKODDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- DXGLGDHPHMLXJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxybenzone Chemical compound OC1=CC(OC)=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 DXGLGDHPHMLXJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960001173 oxybenzone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- RVTZCBVAJQQJTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxygen(2-);zirconium(4+) Chemical compound [O-2].[O-2].[Zr+4] RVTZCBVAJQQJTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000002942 palmitic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000000913 palmityl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N papa-hydroxy-benzoic acid Natural products OC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XYJRXVWERLGGKC-UHFFFAOYSA-D pentacalcium;hydroxide;triphosphate Chemical compound [OH-].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O XYJRXVWERLGGKC-UHFFFAOYSA-D 0.000 description 1
- BPHQIXJDBIHMLT-UHFFFAOYSA-N perfluorodecane Chemical compound FC(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)F BPHQIXJDBIHMLT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- YVBBRRALBYAZBM-UHFFFAOYSA-N perfluorooctane Chemical compound FC(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)F YVBBRRALBYAZBM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000010702 perfluoropolyether Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940066842 petrolatum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- RCMHUQGSSVZPDG-UHFFFAOYSA-N phenoxybenzene;phosphoric acid Chemical compound OP(O)(O)=O.C=1C=CC=CC=1OC1=CC=CC=C1 RCMHUQGSSVZPDG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052628 phlogopite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000000419 plant extract Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001495 poly(sodium acrylate) polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001515 polyalkylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920006122 polyamide resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001083 polybutene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004645 polyester resin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001225 polyester resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000570 polyether Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920013716 polyethylene resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000223 polyglycerol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000002952 polymeric resin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920005990 polystyrene resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002451 polyvinyl alcohol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940114930 potassium stearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- ANBFRLKBEIFNQU-UHFFFAOYSA-M potassium;octadecanoate Chemical compound [K+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O ANBFRLKBEIFNQU-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 238000009725 powder blending Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000002335 preservative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940116422 propylene glycol dicaprate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108090000623 proteins and genes Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 229940056692 resinol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000008165 rice bran oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960004889 salicylic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000007127 saponification reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229930195734 saturated hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 230000035807 sensation Effects 0.000 description 1
- HBMJWWWQQXIZIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N silicon carbide Chemical compound [Si+]#[C-] HBMJWWWQQXIZIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910010271 silicon carbide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229920002050 silicone resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229910021647 smectite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000010413 sodium alginate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000661 sodium alginate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940005550 sodium alginate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940010747 sodium hyaluronate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- NNMHYFLPFNGQFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium polyacrylate Chemical compound [Na+].[O-]C(=O)C=C NNMHYFLPFNGQFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N sodium;(2s,3s,4s,5r,6r)-6-[(2s,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2-[(2s,3s,4r,5r,6r)-6-[(2r,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2- Chemical compound [Na+].CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940114926 stearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000004079 stearyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 229920001909 styrene-acrylic polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003871 sulfonates Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000011593 sulfur Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052717 sulfur Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001629 suppression Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- XOAAWQZATWQOTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N taurine Chemical compound NCCS(O)(=O)=O XOAAWQZATWQOTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940026510 theanine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920002803 thermoplastic polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- AOBORMOPSGHCAX-DGHZZKTQSA-N tocofersolan Chemical compound OCCOC(=O)CCC(=O)OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C AOBORMOPSGHCAX-DGHZZKTQSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960000984 tocofersolan Drugs 0.000 description 1
- LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N tricaprin Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCC LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- RCHUVCPBWWSUMC-UHFFFAOYSA-N trichloro(octyl)silane Chemical compound CCCCCCCC[Si](Cl)(Cl)Cl RCHUVCPBWWSUMC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QPQANCNBWQXGTQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N trihydroxy(trimethylsilylperoxy)silane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)OO[Si](O)(O)O QPQANCNBWQXGTQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000005051 trimethylchlorosilane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940118594 trimethylolpropane triisostearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000006227 trimethylsilylation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000013799 ultramarine blue Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000006097 ultraviolet radiation absorber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940118846 witch hazel Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc stearate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L zinc;1-(5-cyanopyridin-2-yl)-3-[(1s,2s)-2-(6-fluoro-2-hydroxy-3-propanoylphenyl)cyclopropyl]urea;diacetate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O.CCC(=O)C1=CC=C(F)C([C@H]2[C@H](C2)NC(=O)NC=2N=CC(=CC=2)C#N)=C1O UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229910052726 zirconium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229910001928 zirconium oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002076 α-tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000004835 α-tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
上記のように、油性固形化粧料の使用性や経時安定性を向上させるため、様々な検討がなされてきた。
また、シリル化処理シリカの配合により皮膚表面からの水分蒸散を抑制し保湿感を高めた油性化粧料が提案されている(例えば特許文献5参照)。
また、ポリエチレンテレフタレート粉末を配合した化粧料(例えば特許文献14参照)も報告されている。
また、ペースト状油剤や水溶性保湿成分を油性系に配合すると、エモリエント効果や保湿感は良好であるものの、べたつき感があり、塗布後のなめらかさに欠けるという問題を有していた。
また、特許文献5のように粉体配合による水分蒸散抑制を有する油性化粧料においては、塗布後のべたつきについて未だ改善の余地があった。
また、特許文献8のように特定のポリアミドゲル化剤をゲル化剤として用いた技術は、シリコーン油に対しては透明性が高く、べたつきのない塗布膜が得られ、固形にして経時安定性の良いものが得られても、その他の油剤では透明性が低く、化粧料のとれや伸び広がりが悪いものであり、経時で油浮きが見られ経時安定性に劣るものであった。
特許文献12のように液状炭化水素とメチルフェニルポリシロキサンを配合した化粧料ではなめらかさは増加するものの、油性化粧料の最大の特徴である付着性の良さや保湿感が減少してしまうために好ましくなく、その配合のバランスをとることもかなり困難であった。
(A)平均粒子径が1〜30μmのポリエチレンテレフタレート粉末
(B)デキストリン脂肪酸エステル
(C)液状油 75質量%以上
を含有することを特徴とする油性固形化粧料を提供するものである。
下記表1に示す処方の油性固形クリームを下記製造方法にて調製し、表面の油浮き、表面のヒビ割れ、外観の透明性、使用時のべたつきの無さ、保湿感の持続性について下記の方法により評価した。その結果も併せて表1〜3に示す。
*2:オーロラフレーク レッド 0.01(角八魚鱗箔社製)
*3:レオパールKL(千葉製粉社製)
*4:レオパールTL(千葉製粉社製)
*5:レオパールTT(千葉製粉社製)
*6:シリコン KF−96(20CS)(信越化学工業社製)
*7: AEROSIL R976S(日本アエロジル社製)
A:成分5〜8、10〜15を90℃で均一に溶解混合する。
B:成分1〜4、9、16〜19を添加し均一に混合分散する。
C:実施例12はガラス製クリーム容器に90℃で充填し、その他の実施例、比較例はポリエチレンテレフタレート製クリーム容器に90℃で充填して油性固形クリームを得た。なお、各容器共に直径3.5cm、高さ4.5cmの円柱の容積を有しており、そこへ90℃に加温した油性固形クリームを30g充填した。
下記評価項目について各々評価を行った。
(評価項目)
イ.表面の油浮き
ロ.表面のヒビ割れ
ハ.外観の透明性
ニ. 使用時のべたつきの無さ
ホ. 保湿感の持続性
イの表面の油浮き、ロの表面のヒビ割れについて、前記実施例及び比較例の油性固形クリームを40℃の恒温槽に入れて1ヶ月静置した後、室温に戻して外観の状態を肉眼にて観察し、調製時の状態との変化の有無を判定した。
(経時安定性判定基準)
判定 : 評 価
◎ : 変化なし
○ : ごくわずかに変化あり
△ : かなり変化あり
× : 著しく変化あり
ハの外観の透明性については、あらかじめ文字(「透明」と文字サイズ14ptで記載)を記載した金皿(直径60mm、深さ5mm)に前記実施例及び比較例の油性固形クリーム1gを流し込み、冷却後、以下の基準Aに従い評価した。
(基準A)
◎:文字が明確に読める
○:文字が少しぼやけているが読める
△:文字は見えるが読みづらい
×:文字が見えないか、読めない
ニの使用時のべたつきの無さについては、各試料について、化粧歴10年以上の化粧品評価専門パネル20名に各試料を肌に塗布してもらい、「使用時のべたつきの無さ」について、下記評価基準に従って5段階評価し評点を付け、試料ごとにパネル全員の評点合計から、その平均値を算出し、下記4段階判定基準により判定した。
(評価基準)
評価結果 :評点
非常に良好 :5点
良好 :4点
普通 :3点
やや不良 :2点
不良 :1点
判定基準:
評点の平均点 :評価
4.5以上 :◎
3.5以上4.5未満:○
1.5以上3.5未満:△
1.5未満 :×
ホの保湿感の持続性については、化粧歴10年以上の化粧品評価専門パネル20名に、各試料を肌に塗布して通常の生活をしてもらい、6時間後の保湿感の持続性について評価した。下記評価基準に従って5段階評価し評点を付け、試料ごとにパネル全員の評点合計から、その平均値を算出し、下記4段階判定基準により判定した。
(評価基準)
評価結果 :評点
非常に保湿感が高い :5点
保湿感が高い :4点
普通 :3点
保湿感が低い :2点
非常に保湿感が低い :1点
判定基準:
評点の平均点 :評価
4.5以上 :◎
3.5以上4.5未満:○
1.5以上3.5未満:△
1.5未満 :×
これに対して成分(A)を含有していない比較例1は特に表面の油浮き、表面のヒビ割れ、保湿感の持続性に劣るものであり、成分(A)を(ポリエチレンテレフタレート/ポリメタクリル酸メチル)ラミネートにおきかえた比較例2、不定形タルクにおきかえた比較例3、酸化チタンにおきかえた比較例4では特に表面の油浮き、外観の透明性、保湿感の持続性において満足いくものが得られなかった。また、成分(B)を含有していない比較例5は固形状にならず保湿感の持続性に劣り、成分(B)をポリエチレンワックスにおきかえた比較例6、ジステアルジモニウムへクトライトにおきかえた比較例7では特に外観の透明性、保湿感の持続性の点で満足いくものが得られなかった。成分(C)の液状油の総量が75%以下の比較例8、9では特に表面のヒビ割れ、外観の透明性、使用時のべたつきの無さ、保湿感の持続性の点で満足いくものが得られなかった。
(成分) (%)
1.液状ラノリン 30
2.ヘキサ(ヒドロキシステアリン酸・ステアリン酸・
ロジン酸)ジペンタエリスリチル *8 5.5
3.ジメチルポリシロキサン *9 0.1
4.トリイソステアリン酸トリメチロールプロパン 残量
5.流動パラフィン 10
6.パルミチン酸デキストリン *3 20
7.シリル化処理無水ケイ酸 1.5
8.ポリエチレンテレフタレート粉末 *1 2
9.フェノキシエタノール 適量
10.香料 適量
*8:コスモール168ARNV(日清オイリオグループ社製)
*9:シリコン KF−96(6CS)(信越化学工業社製)
A:成分1〜6を90℃で溶解混合する。
B:Aに成分7〜10を加え、均一に混合分散する。
C:Bをポリエチレンテレフタレート製スティック容器に流し込み、冷却固化して油性スティック状アイクリームを得た。
実施例13の油性スティック状アイクリームは、表面の油浮きやヒビ割れ、外観の透明性、使用時のべたつきの無さ、保湿感の持続性に優れた良好な油性スティック状アイクリームであった。
(成分) (%)
1.ポリエチレンテレフタレート粉末 *1 1
2.ダイマージリノール酸(フィトステリル/イソステアリル
/セチル/ステアリル/ベヘニル)*10 1
3.N−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸ジ
(フィトステリル・2−オクチルドデシル)*11 1
4.水素添加大豆リン脂質 *12 0.5
5.シリル化処理無水ケイ酸 *13 1
6.流動パラフィン 20
7.ホホバ油 10
8.メドウフォーム油 残量
9.パルミチン酸デキストリン *4 5
10.テアニン 0.1
11.1,3−ブチレングリコール 1
12.メチルポリシロキサン *6 2
13.フェノキシエタノール 適量
*10:PLANDOOL−S(日本精化社製)
*11:エルデュウ PS203(味の素社製)
*12:ニッコール レシノールS-PIE(日光ケミカルズ社製)
*13:AEROSIL R972(日本アエロジル社製)
A:成分2〜4、6〜9を90℃で溶解混合する。
B:Aに成分1、5、10〜13を加え、均一に混合分散する。
C:Bをガラス製ジャー容器に流し込み、冷却して油性固形状ハンドクリームを得た。
実施例14の油性固形状ハンドクリームは、表面の油浮きやヒビ割れ、外観の透明性、使用時のべたつきの無さ、保湿感の持続性に優れた良好な油性固形状ハンドクリームであった。
(成分) (%)
1.ポリエチレンテレフタレート粉末 *1 1
2.2−オクチルドデカノール 1
3.コメヌカ油 1
4.α−オレフィンオリゴマー 1
5.シリル化処理無水ケイ酸 *7 1
6.流動パラフィン 20
7.オリーブ油 10
8.メドウフォーム油 残量
9.パルミチン酸デキストリン *4 5
10.セリン 0.1
11.グリセリン 1
12.ジメチルポリシロキサン *6 2
13.フェノキシエタノール 適量
A:成分2〜4、6〜9を90℃で溶解混合する。
B:Aに成分1、5、10〜13を加え、均一に混合分散する。
C:Bをポリエチレンテレフタレート製ジャー容器に流し込み、冷却して油性固形状ヘアトリートメントクリームを得た。
実施例15の油性固形状ヘアトリートメントクリームは、表面の油浮きやヒビ割れ、外観の透明性、使用時のべたつきの無さ、保湿感の持続性に優れた良好な油性固形状ヘアトリートメントクリームであった。
Claims (10)
- 次の成分(A)〜(C);
(A)平均粒子径が1〜30μmのポリエチレンテレフタレート粉末
(B)デキストリン脂肪酸エステル
(C)液状油 75質量%以上
を含有することを特徴とする油性固形化粧料。 - 成分(A)の含有量が0.01〜10質量%であることを特徴とする前記請求項1に記載の油性固形化粧料。
- 成分(B)のデキストリン脂肪酸エステルがパルミチン酸デキストリンであることを特徴とする前記請求項1又は2の項に記載の油性固形化粧料。
- 成分(B)の含有量が0.1〜20質量%であることを特徴とする前記請求項1乃至3の何れかの項に記載の油性固形化粧料。
- 更に、成分(D)としてシリル化処理無水ケイ酸を含有することを特徴とする前記請求項1乃至4の何れかの項に記載の油性固形化粧料。
- 成分(D)の含有量が0.1〜5質量%であることを特徴とする前記請求項5記載の油性固形化粧料。
- 成分(C)の液状油における極性油の割合が50質量%以上であることを特徴とする前記請求項1乃至6の何れかの項に記載の油性固形化粧料。
- 成分(B)のデキストリン脂肪酸エステルがアシル基置換度の異なるパルミチン酸デキストリンを2種以上含有することを特徴とする前記請求項1乃至7の何れかの項に記載の油性固形化粧料。
- 外観が透明〜半透明であることを特徴とする前記請求項1乃至8の何れかの項に記載の油性固形化粧料。
- 油性固形化粧料に接触する材質がポリエチレンテレフタレートを含有する樹脂容器に充填されていることを特徴とする前記請求項1乃至9の何れかの項に記載の油性固形化粧料。
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