JP3934017B2 - Cosmetics - Google Patents
Cosmetics Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP3934017B2 JP3934017B2 JP2002274470A JP2002274470A JP3934017B2 JP 3934017 B2 JP3934017 B2 JP 3934017B2 JP 2002274470 A JP2002274470 A JP 2002274470A JP 2002274470 A JP2002274470 A JP 2002274470A JP 3934017 B2 JP3934017 B2 JP 3934017B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- extract
- derivatives
- salts
- acid
- cosmetic
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
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- 239000000284 extract Substances 0.000 claims description 73
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 22
- 230000002087 whitening effect Effects 0.000 claims description 19
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Description
【0001】
【産業上の利用分野】
本発明は、メラニン分解性物質と美白成分とを含有することにより、メラノサイトにて産生された後、角層中に移送されたメラニンをメラニン分解性物質で分解するとともに、新たなメラニンの産生を美白成分で抑制することにより、今までにない高い効果を有する美白化粧料に関するものである。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
メラニンは、皮膚の他に、中枢神経や網膜でも生合成され、また動物に限らず、植物から微生物に至るまで自然界に広く分布存在している。メラニンは、チロシンがチロシナーゼの作用によりドーパ、更にドーパキノンへと変換され、次いで酸化が進んでインドール−5,6−ジヒドロキノンとなり、これが重合して生成するものである。
【0003】
メラニンの生合成は、表皮の基底層に存在するメラノサイトで行われる。メラノサイトでは、メラノソームと呼ばれる顆粒中でメラニンが合成、成熟されて表皮細胞に移動、分散し、最後には垢となって脱落する。メラニンは紫外線の悪影響から身体を守る重要な役目を担っており、医学上重要な因子である。しかしながら、メラニン量が多くなりすぎると色黒の皮膚となり、クスミ、シミ、ソバカス等、美容上の大きな問題となる。
【0004】
現在知られているクスミ、シミ、ソバカス対策は、メラニン生合成の引金となる紫外線をサンスクリーン剤等で遮光する方法と、メラニンの生合成を阻害する物質、例えば、アルブチン、コウジ酸、ビタミンC誘導体といったメラニン合成阻害剤、およびメラニン生合成を抑制する植物抽出物を用いる方法が知られている。
【0006】
しかしながら、一旦形成されてしまった角層中のメラニンを分解し、消失せしめるための副作用のない安全な方法は未だ開発されていないのが現状である。以前、ハイドロキノン、4−イソプロピルカテコール、ハイドロキノンモノベンジルエーテルが皮膚漂白剤として用いられたこともあったが、これらは強力な脱色作用を有するものの、それは色素細胞の変性、致死に基づくものであるため、外用を継続すると永久的白斑となるとともに、かぶれ等の副作用も避けられないため、現在は化粧料として市販されておらず、当業界においては安全なクスミ、シミ、ソバカスに有効な美白剤の開発が強く望まれていた。
【0007】
したがって現在のところ、クスミ、シミ、ソバカスに対しては、メラニンが表皮の更新に伴って脱落する期間を早めるため、代謝促進作用のある胎盤抽出物を用いる方法や、レゾルシンやサリチル酸といった角質の軟化、剥離剤を用いて表皮のターンオーバーを短縮する方法が知られているにすぎない。しかしながらこの方法は、本来、クスミ、シミ、ソバカスの根本的な治療法といえるものではない。
【0008】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明は、このような技術の現状に鑑みてなされたものであって、美白成分でクスミ、シミ、ソバカスの生成を予防するとともに、角層中のメラニンを分解することにより、クスミ、シミ、ソバカスに対して、今までにない高い美白効果を発揮する美白化粧料を開発する目的でなされたものである。
【0009】
【課題を解決するための手段】
上記目的を達成するために、微生物の中からメラニン分解性を有する木材腐朽菌に着目し、メラニン分解作用を有する物質と、美白成分を組み合わせることによって本発明の完成に至ったものである。
【0010】
本発明において使用可能な微生物は、メラニン分解性を有する木材腐朽菌が使用可能であり、例えば、ヒラタケ属(pleurotus)、スギタケ属(Pholiota)、マツオウジ属(Lentinus )、キクラゲ属(Auricularia)、カヤタケ属(Clitocybe)、Pseudohiatula属、キコブタケ属(Phellinus)に属する担子菌が利用できる。
【0011】
さらに詳しく述べれば、ヒラタケ属(Pleurotus属)に属する担子菌では、ヒラタケ(Pleurotus ostreatus (Jacq.:Fr.)Kummer)、タモギタケ(Pleurotus cornucopiae (Paulet)Rolland var. citrinopileatus(Sing.)Ohira)、トキイロヒラタケ(Pleurotus salmoneostramineus L. Vass.)、ウスヒラタケ(Pleurotus pulmonarius (Fr.) Quel,)が、スギタケ属(Pholiota)に属する担子菌では、ヌメリスギタケモドキ(Pholiota aurivella (Batsch:Fr.)Kummer)、ヌメリスギタケ(Pholiota adiposa (Fr.)Kummer)、ナメコ(Pholiota nameko (T.Ito) S. Ito et Imai inImai)、ハナガサタケ(Pholiota flammans (Fr.)Kummer)、スギタケ(Pholiota squarrosa (Mull Fr.)Kummer)、スギタケモドキ(Pholiota squarrosoides (Peck)Sacc.)、チャナメツムタケ(Pholiota lubrica (Pers. Fr.)Sing.)が、マツオウジ属に属する担子菌ではシイタケ(Lentinus edodes (Berk.) Sing.)、マツオウジ(LentinusFr.em Sing.)が、キクラゲ属に属する担子菌ではキクラゲ(Auricularia auricula (Hook.)Underw.)、アラゲキクラゲ(Auricularia polytricha (Mont.)Sacc.)、ヒダキクラゲAuricularia mesenterica (Dick.)Pers.)が、カヤタケ属(Clitocybe)に属する担子菌では、ハイイロシメジ(Clitocybenebularis (Batsch:Fr.)Kummer)、アオイヌシメジ(Clitocybe odora (Bull:Fr.)Kummer)、ホテイシメジ(Clitocybe clavipes (。Pers:Fr.)Kummer)が、カヤタケ(Clitocybe gibba (Pers:Fr.)Kummer)、Pseudohiatula属に属する担子菌ではPseudohiatulaoshimae 、キコブタケ属(Phellinus)に属する担子菌がメシマコブ(P.yucatensis(Murr.)Imaz.)がそれぞれ利用できる。
【0012】
本発明において利用されるメラニン分解性物質は、担子菌の菌糸を培養することによって生産することができる。担子菌は、天然の子実体および土壌中から菌糸を誘導することができるとともに、菌株分譲機関から分譲を受けることも可能である。これら菌糸を培養することにより、培養液中にマンガンパーオキシダーゼ等のメラニン分解性物質を生産する。マンガンパーオキシダーゼとは、木材のリグニンを分解する酵素として知られており、木材糖化の前処理や染料の脱色、着色排水の脱色、難分解性物質などの分解に利用されている。
【0013】
本発明において利用される美白成分中の植物抽出物については、特に植物の種を限定するものではない。総称として呼ばれているものすべてを含むものである。
【0014】
甘草は、まめ科カンゾウ属の多年草で、中国北部からウスリー地方原産の植物で、まれに栽培される。
【0015】
イレイセンは、きんぽうげ科の植物で、センニンソウともいう。
【0016】
ひまわりは、きく科ヒマワリ属の1年草植物で、観賞用や採油用に広く栽培されている。
【0017】
イブキトラノオは、たで科イブキトラノオ属の多年草植物で、北海道、本州、四国及び広く北半球の寒帯から温帯に分布し、山地の日当たりのよい草地に生える。
【0018】
エイジツは、ばら科の落葉低木で、ノイバラともいう。日本に広く自生する。
【0019】
オウゴンは、シソ科の多年草で、コガネヤナギともいう。中国、朝鮮及びシベリア原野に自生する。
【0020】
クジンは、まめ科の多年草で、クララともいう。原野、路傍に生じる。
【0021】
ゴカヒは、ウコギ科の落葉低木で、日の良くあたる山野丘陵に自生する。根皮及び幹皮を利用する。ヤマウコギ、オニウコギともいう。
【0022】
サイシンは、うまのすずくさ科ウスバサイシン属の多年草植物で、本州、九州の山地の樹陰の湿ったところにはえる。
【0023】
サンザシは、ばら科サンザシ属の落葉低木で、観賞用に栽培されている。
【0024】
シラユリは、ゆり科ゆり属の多年草で、人家で栽培されている。
【0025】
シャクヤクは、ぼたん科ボタン属の多年草で、観賞用又は薬用のため栽植されている。
【0026】
センプクカは、きく科の多年草の多年草で、日当たりの良くて湿っている丘陵原野の田やあぜ、小川のそばに自生する。オグルマともいう。
【0027】
ソウハクヒは、くわ科の落葉高木で、日本各地の山地に自生する。
【0028】
大豆は、まめ科の1年草の植物である。
【0029】
茶は、ツバキ科の常緑低木である。
【0030】
トウキは、せり科の多年草で、各地で栽培される。
【0031】
ビャクレンは、ぶどう科ノブドウ属のつる植物である。
【0032】
ブナノキは、ぶな科ブナ属の落葉高木で、北海道西南部から九州の温帯で、純林の極相林をつくる。
【0033】
ブドウは、ぶどう科ブドウ属の落葉つる草である。世界の温帯で広く果実として栽植される。
【0034】
ホップは、くわ科の多年草つる草である。
【0035】
マイカイカは、ばら科の植物で、ハマナスともいわれる。北海道の海浜に野生する。
【0036】
ユキノシタは、ゆきのした科ユキノシタ属の多年草で、本州から九州及び中国の暖帯に分布する。山地の湿った岩上などにはえる。
【0037】
ヨクイニンは、イネ科の一年草で、ハトムギともいわれる。熱帯アジア原産で、日本各地で栽培される。
【0038】
また、美白成分であるコウジ酸及びその誘導体並びにそれらの塩、エラグ酸及びその誘導体並びにそれらの塩、エンドセリン拮抗薬、アスコルビン酸及びその誘導体並びにそれらの塩、グルタチオン及びその誘導体並びにそれらの塩、システイン及びその誘導体並びにそれらの塩、レゾルシン及びその誘導体並びにそれらの塩、ハイドロキノン及びその誘導体並びにそれらの塩は市販の試薬類を利用することが出来る。また、これらの化合物を多く含有する植物から各種の溶媒、例えば、水;メチルアルコール、エチルアルコール等の低級1価アルコール;グリセリン、プロピレングリコール、1,3−ブチレングリコール等の液状多価アルコール;アセトン、メチルエチルケトン等のケトン;酢酸エチルなどのアルキルエステル;ベンゼン、ヘキサン等の炭化水素;ジエチルエーテル等のエーテル類;ジクロルメタン、クロロホルム等のハロゲン化アルカン等の1種または2種以上を用いて抽出し、精製して使用することが出来る。さらには、化学的な合成によっても上記化合物を作成することが可能である。
【0039】
また、グラブリジン、グラブレン、リクイリチン、イソリクイリチン及びこれらを含有する甘草抽出物、胎盤抽出物、カロチノイド類及びこれらを含有する動植物抽出物、イレイセン抽出物、ひまわり種子抽出物、イブキトラノオ抽出物、エイジツ抽出物、オウゴン抽出物、オノニス抽出物、海藻抽出物、クジン抽出物、ゴカヒ抽出物、リノール酸を含有する油脂、リノレン酸を含有する油脂、サイシン抽出物、サンザシ抽出物、シラユリ抽出物、シャクヤク抽出物、センプクカ抽出物、ソウハクヒ抽出物、大豆抽出物、茶抽出物、トウキ抽出物、ビャクレン抽出物、ブナノキ抽出物、ブドウ種子抽出物、ホップ抽出物、マイカイカ抽出物、ユキノシタ抽出物、ヨクイニン抽出物の調製は特に限定されないが、例えば種々の適当な有機溶媒を用いて低温下から加温下で抽出される。抽出溶媒としては、例えば、水;メチルアルコール、エチルアルコール等の低級1価アルコール;グリセリン、プロピレングリコール、1,3−ブチレングリコール等の液状多価アルコール;アセトン、メチルエチルケトン等のケトン;酢酸エチルなどのアルキルエステル;ベンゼン、ヘキサン等の炭化水素;ジエチルエーテル等のエーテル類;ジクロルメタン、クロロホルム等のハロゲン化アルカン等の1種または2種以上を用いることが出来る。とりわけ、水、エチルアルコール、1,3−ブチレングリコールの1種または2種以上の混合溶媒が特に好適である。
【0040】
ヒラタケ属(pleurotus)、スギタケ属(Pholiota)、マツオウジ属(Lentinus )、キクラゲ属(Auricularia)、カヤタケ属(Clitocybe)、Pseudohiatula属、キコブタケ属(Phellinus)の担子菌からなるメラニン分解性物質の生産については菌糸をポテト−デキストロース培地、麦芽エキス培地、チャペック−ドックス培地、エビオス培地、酵母エキス培地、サブロー培地、オートミール培地などで培養後、培養液をそのまま乾燥し利用することが出来る。また、培養液中に存在するパーオキシダーゼ類を、硫酸アンモニウムなどの塩類により塩析する。塩析により析出した物質は、乾燥しそのまま利用しても良いが、必要に応じて、さらに精製処理して使用することが出来る。本発明の化粧料における精製したパーオキシダーゼ類の配合量は、0.00001〜10.0重量%が好ましく、特に0.001〜0.1重量%の範囲が最適である。
【0041】
また、上記培養液をろ過し、そのまま化粧料に配合することも可能である。この場合の配合量は、0.01〜100重量%の範囲で利用でき、好ましくは10.0〜50.0重量%の範囲が最適である。
【0042】
美白成分として用いるコウジ酸及びその誘導体並びにそれらの塩、エラグ酸及びその誘導体並びにそれらの塩、エンドセリン拮抗薬、アスコルビン酸及びその誘導体並びにそれらの塩、グルタチオン及びその誘導体並びにそれらの塩、システイン及びその誘導体並びにそれらの塩、レゾルシン及びその誘導体並びにそれらの塩、ハイドロキノン及びその誘導体並びにそれらの塩、グラブリジン、グラブレン、リクイリチン、イソリクイリチン及びこれらを含有する甘草抽出物、胎盤抽出物、カロチノイド類及びこれらを含有する動植物抽出物、イレイセン抽出物、ひまわり種子抽出物、イブキトラノオ抽出物、エイジツ抽出物、オウゴン抽出物、オノニス抽出物、海藻抽出物、クジン抽出物、ゴカヒ抽出物、リノール酸を含有する油脂、リノレン酸を含有する油脂、サイシン抽出物、サンザシ抽出物、シラユリ抽出物、シャクヤク抽出物、センプクカ抽出物、ソウハクヒ抽出物、大豆抽出物、茶抽出物、トウキ抽出物、ビャクレン抽出物、ブナノキ抽出物、ブドウ種子抽出物、ホップ抽出物、マイカイカ抽出物、ユキノシタ抽出物、ヨクイニン抽出物については、それぞれの素材を乾燥した後、細かく粉砕したものを重量比で1〜1000倍量、特に10〜100倍量の溶媒を用い、0℃以上、特に20℃〜40℃で1時間以上、特に3〜7日間行うのが好ましい。また、60〜100℃で1時間、加熱抽出しても良い。
【0043】
以上のような条件で得られる上記各抽出物は、抽出された溶液のまま用いても良いが、さらに必要により、濾過等の処理をして濃縮、粉末化したものを適宜使い分けて用いることが出来る。
【0044】
本発明の化粧料における美白成分の配合量は、蒸発乾燥分に換算して0.00001〜20.0重量%が好ましく、特に0.01〜10.0重量%の範囲が最適である。
【0045】
本発明の化粧料は、上記必須成分のほか、水性成分、油性成分、植物抽出物、動物抽出物、粉末、賦形剤、界面活性剤、油剤、アルコール、pH調整剤、防腐剤、酸化防止剤、増粘剤、甘味剤、色素、香料等を必要に応じて混合して適宜配合することにより調製される。本発明の化粧料の剤型は特に限定されず、化粧水、乳液、クリーム、パック、パウダー、スプレー、軟膏、分散液、洗浄料等種々の剤型とすることができる。
【0046】
【実施例】
以下、本発明による各種生産物のメラニン分解およびメラニン産生抑制効果によるクスミ・シミ・ソバカス消去に関する実施例を示すと共にその素材を用いた化粧料への応用処方例等について述べるが、ここに記載された実施例に限定されないのは言うまでもない。
【0047】
木材腐朽菌の培養
木材腐朽菌としては、ヒラタケ(IFO:No.30776)、ヌメリスギタケモドキ(IFO:No.30265)、シイタケ(IFO:No.30719.)、キクラゲ(IFO:No.5949.)、ハイイロシメジ(IFO:No.9350)、Pseudohiatula oshimae (IFO:No.30370)は、財団法人発酵研究所より購入した菌株を用いた。メシマコブは天然の子実体から無菌的に切片を切除し、この切片をPotato-DextroseBroth(Difco社製)2.4%と寒天1.5%より調製したポテト・デキストロース寒天培地上に置き、24℃で2週間培養後、得られた菌糸を用いた。培地は酵母エキス3.0g、ポリペプトン3.0g、麦芽エキス3.0g、サッカロース1.0gを精製水1Lに溶解した酵母培地を用いた。培養は、200mlの三角フラスコに培養液100mlを添加し、滅菌後、菌糸を植え付け、24℃、150rpmで10日間、回転培養を行った。
【0048】
マンガンパーオキシダーゼの力価の測定
2,6-dimethoxyphenol(2,6-DMP)1%水溶液1mlに培養培地2ml、0.2M-クエン酸−NaOHでPH4.5に調製した緩衝液0.3ml、精製水0.7mlを添加し、10分後の475nmにおける吸光度変化を測定した。
【0049】
【表1】
各種菌株培養液のマンガンパーオキシダーゼ活性
【0050】
表1に示したように、いずれの菌株の培養液も高い活性を示した。特にハイイロシメジ培養液は、4.31と高いマンガンパーオキシダーゼ活性を示した。
【0051】
マンガンパーオキシダーゼの調製およびメラニンの分解
培養液100mlに硫酸アンモニウム58gを加え、溶解させる。4℃で1昼夜放置し、沈殿を生じさせる。3,000rpm、10分間遠心分離により、沈殿を回収し、乾燥して粗酵素粉末を得る。この粉末を精製水10mlに溶解し、酵素溶液とする。調製した酵素溶液5mlに0.1g/mlイカスミメラニン(グリコ栄養食品社製)分散水溶液を50μlを添加し、室温で3日間放置した。その後、メラニンをろ過した溶液の400nmの吸光度を測定し、メラニンの分解度を測定した。
【0052】
【表2】
各種菌株から精製した酵素溶液のメラニン分解度
【0053】
表2に示したように、いずれの菌株から調製した酵素溶液もメラニンを分解し、400nmにおける吸光度の値が上昇していることがわかった。陰性対象として酵素液の代わりに精製水を用いたものは、400nmの吸光度値はほとんど増加は認められなかった。特にハイイロシメジから調製した酵素溶液は、3.85と高い値を示し、メラニン分解が進んでいた。また、表1との比較から、マンガンパーオキシダーゼ活性の高いものは、メラニン分解性も高いことが認められた。
【0054】
次に、本発明の各種成分を配合した化粧料の処方例の例を示すが、本発明はこれに限定されるものでない。
化粧料の処方例
【0055】
(1)化粧用クリーム (重量%)
a)ミツロウ・・・2.0
b)ステアリルアルコール・・・5.0
c)ステアリン酸・・・8.0
d)スクワラン・・・10.0
e)自己乳化型グリセリルモノステアレート・・・3.0
f)ポリオキシエチレンセチルエーテル(20E.O.)・・・1.0
g)ヒラタケ培養液・・・10.0
h)シャクヤク抽出液・・・0.5
i)アスコルビン酸グルコシド・・・2.0
j)1,3-ブチレングリコール・・・5.0
k)水酸化カリウム・・・0.3
l)防腐剤・酸化防止剤・・・適量
m)精製水・・・残部
製法 a)〜f)までを加熱溶解し、80℃に保つ。H)〜m)までを加熱溶解し、80℃に保ち、a)〜f)に加えて乳化し、40℃まで撹拌しながら冷却する。その後、g)を加え、攪拌し均一に溶解する。
【0056】
(2)乳液 (重量%)
a)ミツロウ・・・0.5
b)ワセリン・・・2.0
c)スクワラン・・・8.0
d)ソルビタンセスキオレエート・・・0.8
e)ポリオキシエチレンオレイルエーテル(20E.O.)・・・1.2
f)ハイイロシメジ培養液・・・15.0
g)イレイセンエキス・・・2.0
h)1,3-ブチレングリコール・・・7.0
i)カルボキシビニルポリマー・・・0.2
j)水酸化カリウム・・・0.1
k)精製水・・・残部
l)防腐剤・酸化防止剤・・・適量
m)エタノール・・・7.0
製法 a)〜e)までを加熱溶解し、80℃に保つ。h)〜l)までを加熱溶解し、80℃に保ち、a)〜e)に加えて乳化し、50℃まで撹拌しながら冷却する。50℃でf)、g)、m)を添加し、40℃まで攪拌、冷却する。
【0057】
(3)化粧水 (重量%)
a)キクラゲ培養液乾燥物・・・0.1
b)アスコルビン酸リン酸マグネシウム・・・1.0
c)グリセリン・・・5.0
d)ポリオキシエチレンソルビタンモノラウレート(20E.O.)・・・1.0
e)エタノール・・・6.0
f)香料・・・適量
g)防腐剤・酸化防止剤・・・適量
h)精製水・・・残部
製法 a)とb)を均一に混合する。c)〜h)までを混合し、均一に溶解する。使用時に2剤を混合して使用する。
【0058】
(4)化粧水 (重量%)
a)マンガンパーオキシダーゼ・・・0.01
b)グルタチオン・・・0.1
c)グリセリン・・・5.0
d)ポリオキシエチレンソルビタンモノラウレート(20E.O.)・・・1.0
e)エタノール・・・6.0
f)香料・・・適量
g)防腐剤・酸化防止剤・・・適量
h)精製水・・・残部
製法 a)〜b)までを混合する。c)〜h)までを混合し、均一に溶解する。使用時に2剤を混合して使用する。
【0059】
(5)洗顔剤 (重量%)
a)ヒラタケ培養液乾燥物・・・0.1
b)アスコルビン酸グルコシド・・・2.0
c)シャクヤク抽出液・・・0.5
d)タルク・・・残部
e)セルロース・・・20.0
f)ミリスチン酸カリウム・・・30.0
g)ラウリルリン酸ナトリウム・・・10.0
h)香料・・・適量
i)防腐剤・・・適量
製法 a)〜i)までを混合し、よく撹拌、分散させ均一にする。
【0060】
【効果確認試験】
(1)塗布によるヒトでの効果確認試験
被験者として、20〜50歳の女性15名に1日2回(朝、夜)連続2ヵ月間、本発明品と比較品のそれぞれを使用させ、塗布部位の状態を試験前後で比較し、改善効果を調べた。本試験には、試験品として【0055】、【0059】で示した化粧料を用い、対照品 1 には【0055】、【0059】に示した化粧料からヒラタケ培養液を除いた化粧料、対照品 2 には【0059】に示した化粧料からシャクヤク抽出液、アスコルビン酸グルコシドを除いた化粧料を作成し、その使用による効果について調べた。 本発明の有効成分を配合した化粧料を毎日使用しながら肌のクスミおよび美白効果を塗布開始前及び2ヶ月塗布後におけるアンケートで集計し、効果の確認を行った。 結果は表3に示す。表3からも明らかなように、従来の美白成分のみからなる対照品 1 、メラニン分解性物質のみからなる対照品 2 と比較して、美白成分とメラニン分解性物質からなる試験品は高い効果が認められた。
【0061】
【表3】
【0062】
【発明の効果】
以上詳述したごとく、本発明の化粧料は、角質中のメラニンを分解し、かつ同時に配合される美白成分によってメラニン産生を抑制するため、高い美白効果を有するものである。[0001]
[Industrial application fields]
The present invention contains a melanolytic substance and a whitening component, thereby decomposing melanin produced in melanocytes and then transferred into the stratum corneum with a melanolytic substance and producing new melanin. The present invention relates to a whitening cosmetic having an unprecedented high effect by suppressing with a whitening component.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Melanin is biosynthesized in the central nerve and retina in addition to the skin, and is widely distributed in nature from plants to microorganisms, not limited to animals. Melanin is produced by the conversion of tyrosine to dopa and further dopaquinone by the action of tyrosinase, followed by oxidation to indole-5,6-dihydroquinone, which is polymerized.
[0003]
The biosynthesis of melanin takes place in melanocytes present in the basal layer of the epidermis. In melanocytes, melanin is synthesized and matured in granules called melanosomes, migrates and disperses into epidermal cells, and finally becomes plaque and falls off. Melanin plays an important role in protecting the body from the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays and is an important medical factor. However, if the amount of melanin is too large, it becomes dark skin, which is a serious cosmetic problem such as rash, stain, buckwheat.
[0004]
Currently known countermeasures against Kusumi, blemishes, and freckles include a method of shielding the ultraviolet rays that trigger melanin biosynthesis with a sunscreen agent, and substances that inhibit melanin biosynthesis, such as arbutin, kojic acid, and vitamins. Methods using melanin synthesis inhibitors such as C derivatives and plant extracts that suppress melanin biosynthesis are known.
[0006]
However, the present condition is that the safe method without the side effect for decomposing | disassembling and disappearing the melanin in the stratum corneum once formed has not been developed yet. In the past, hydroquinone, 4-isopropylcatechol, and hydroquinone monobenzyl ether have been used as skin bleaching agents, but these have strong depigmenting effects, but they are based on degeneration and lethality of pigment cells. However, if it is used continuously, it becomes permanent vitiligo, and side effects such as rash are unavoidable, so it is not currently marketed as a cosmetic. In this industry, it is a safe whitening agent effective for Kumi, stains and freckles. Development was strongly desired.
[0007]
Therefore, at present, in order to accelerate the period in which melanin falls off with the renewal of the epidermis for Kusumi, blemishes, and buckwheat, the use of placental extracts that have a metabolic promoting effect and the softening of keratin such as resorcin and salicylic acid Only a method for shortening the turnover of the epidermis using a release agent is known. However, this method is not inherently a fundamental treatment for Kusumi, blemishes and buckwheat.
[0008]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention has been made in view of the current state of the art, and by preventing the formation of kusumumi, blemishes, freckles with whitening ingredients, and by decomposing melanin in the stratum corneum, kusumumi, blemishes, It was made for the purpose of developing whitening cosmetics that show an unprecedented high whitening effect against buckwheat.
[0009]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
In order to achieve the above object, the present invention has been completed by combining a melanin-decomposing substance and a whitening component, focusing on wood-rotting fungi having melanin decomposability among microorganisms.
[0010]
As the microorganisms that can be used in the present invention, wood-rotting fungi having melanin decomposability can be used, for example, pleurotus, Pholiota, Lentinus, Auricularia, oyster mushroom Basidiomycetes belonging to the genus (Clitocybe), Pseudohiatula, and Phellinus can be used.
[0011]
More specifically, among basidiomycetes belonging to the genus Pleurotus, oyster mushrooms (Pleurotus ostreatus (Jacq.:Fr.)Kummer), bamboo shoots (Pleurotus cornucopiae (Paulet) Rolland var. Citrinopileatus (Sing.) Ohira), Pleurotus salmoneostramineus L. Vass., Pleurotus pulmonarius (Fr.) Quel, is a basidiomycete belonging to the genus Pholiota, Pholiota aurivella (Batschmer Fum. (Pholiota adiposa (Fr.) Kummer), Nameko (Pholiota nameko (T.Ito) S. Ito et Imai inImai), Nagaritake (Pholiota flammans (Fr.) Kummer), Sugitake (Pholiota squarrosa (Mull Fr.) Kummer), Pholiota squarrosoides (Peck) Sacc., Phaniota lubrica (Pers. Fr.) Sing. Is a basidiomycete belonging to the genus Pinus genus Lentinus edodes (Berk.) Sing., Matsuouji (L entinusFr.em Sing.) is a basidiomycete belonging to the genus Asterus (Auricularia auricula (Hook.) Underw.), Auricularia jellyfish (Auricularia polytricha (Mont.) Sacc.), However, in basidiomycetes belonging to the genus Clitocybe, Clitocybenebularis (Batsch: Fr.) Kummer, Clitocybe odora (Bull: Fr.) Kummer, Hotito-shimeji (Clitocybe clavipes (.Pers) Fr. Kummer) is a mosquito (Clitocybe gibba (Pers: Fr.) Kummer), a basidiomycete belonging to the genus Pseudohiatula is Pseudohiatulaoshimae, and a basidiomycete belonging to the genus Phellinus is P.yucatensis (Murr.) Imaz. Available.
[0012]
The melanolytic substance used in the present invention can be produced by culturing mycelia of basidiomycetes. Basidiomycetes can induce mycelia from natural fruiting bodies and soil, and can also be sold from strain distribution agencies. By culturing these mycelium, a melanin-degrading substance such as manganese peroxidase is produced in the culture solution. Manganese peroxidase is known as an enzyme that degrades wood lignin, and is used for pretreatment of wood saccharification, decolorization of dyes, decolorization of colored waste water, and decomposition of hardly decomposable substances.
[0013]
About the plant extract in the whitening component utilized in this invention, the seed | species of a plant is not specifically limited. It includes everything that is called generically.
[0014]
Licorice is a perennial plant belonging to the genus Licorice, a plant native to the Ussuri region from northern China that is rarely cultivated.
[0015]
Ireisen is a plant belonging to the family Dendrobaceae, also called ginseng.
[0016]
Sunflower is an annual plant belonging to the genus Sunflower, which is widely cultivated for ornamental use and oil extraction.
[0017]
Ibukitorano is a perennial plant belonging to the genus Ibukitrano, which is distributed in Hokkaido, Honshu, Shikoku and the northern hemisphere from the cold zone to the temperate zone and grows in sunny grasslands in the mountains.
[0018]
Ages is a deciduous shrub of the rose family, also known as a rose. It grows widely in Japan.
[0019]
Ogon is a perennial plant belonging to the family Lamiaceae and is also referred to as Scotch. Native to China, Korea and Siberian wilderness.
[0020]
Kujin is a perennial of the bean family, also known as Clara. It occurs in the wilderness and roadside.
[0021]
Gokahi is a deciduous shrub of the family Araceae and grows naturally in the sunny hills of Yamano. Use root bark and stem bark. It is also called Yamaukogi or Onikougi.
[0022]
Saishin is a perennial plant belonging to the genus Usbasaicin, a suzuma family of horses, that ripens in the shade of the mountains of Honshu and Kyushu.
[0023]
Hawthorn is a deciduous shrub belonging to the family Hawthorn, which is cultivated for ornamental purposes.
[0024]
Shirayuri is a perennial plant belonging to the genus Lily family, and is cultivated at home.
[0025]
Peonies are perennials belonging to the genus Buttonaceae and are planted for ornamental or medicinal purposes.
[0026]
Sempukuka is a perennial perennial plant belonging to the asteraceae family, and grows naturally near the fields and hills of the hilly plains that are sunny and moist. Also called Ogulma.
[0027]
Sohakuhi is a deciduous Takagi tree that grows naturally in mountains throughout Japan.
[0028]
Soybean is an annual plant of the legume family.
[0029]
Tea is an evergreen shrub of the camellia family.
[0030]
Japanese cypress is a perennial plant of the sericulture family and is cultivated in various locations.
[0031]
Byaclen is a vine belonging to the genus Grapeaceae.
[0032]
Beech trees are deciduous Takagi trees belonging to the genus Beechidae, which form a pure forest in the temperate zone of southwestern Hokkaido and Kyushu.
[0033]
Grapes are deciduous vines belonging to the genus Grapeaceae. It is widely planted as a fruit in the temperate zone of the world.
[0034]
A hop is a perennial vine in the family Hoeaceae.
[0035]
Maikaika is a rose family plant and is also called Hermanus. Wild on the beach in Hokkaido.
[0036]
Yukinoshita is a perennial plant belonging to the genus Yukinoshita, and is distributed from Honshu to Kyushu and the warm temperate zone of China. Fly over wet rocks in the mountains.
[0037]
Yokuinin is an annual plant of the grass family and is also called pearl barley. Native to tropical Asia and cultivated in various parts of Japan.
[0038]
Further, kojic acid and its derivatives which are whitening components and salts thereof, ellagic acid and its derivatives and salts thereof, endothelin antagonist, ascorbic acid and its derivatives and salts thereof, glutathione and its derivatives and salts thereof, cysteine Commercially available reagents can be used for these and derivatives thereof, and salts thereof, resorcin and derivatives thereof, and salts thereof, hydroquinone and derivatives thereof, and salts thereof. Various solvents from plants containing a large amount of these compounds, such as water; lower monohydric alcohols such as methyl alcohol and ethyl alcohol; liquid polyhydric alcohols such as glycerin, propylene glycol and 1,3-butylene glycol; acetone Extraction using 1 type or 2 types or more of alkyl esters such as ethyl acetate; hydrocarbons such as benzene and hexane; ethers such as diethyl ether; halogenated alkanes such as dichloromethane and chloroform; It can be used after purification. Furthermore, the above compound can be prepared by chemical synthesis.
[0039]
In addition, grabrizine, glabrene, liquiritin, isoliquiritin and licorice extract, placenta extract, carotenoids and animal and plant extracts containing these, irasen extract, sunflower seed extract, ibukitorano extract, agetsu extract , Ogon extract, Ononis extract, Seaweed extract, Kujin extract, Sesame extract, Oil containing linoleic acid, Oil containing linolenic acid, Saicin extract, Hawthorn extract, Shirayuri extract, Peonies extract , Sempukuka extract, Sowakuhihi extract, soybean extract, tea extract, Toki extract, sandalwood extract, beech extract, grape seed extract, hop extract, mica extract, saxifrage extract, yokuinin extract The preparation is not particularly limited. For example, various suitable organic solvents can be used. It is extracted under heating from a low temperature to have. Examples of the extraction solvent include water; lower monohydric alcohols such as methyl alcohol and ethyl alcohol; liquid polyhydric alcohols such as glycerin, propylene glycol, and 1,3-butylene glycol; ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone; and ethyl acetate. One or more of alkyl esters; hydrocarbons such as benzene and hexane; ethers such as diethyl ether; and halogenated alkanes such as dichloromethane and chloroform can be used. In particular, one, two or more mixed solvents of water, ethyl alcohol, and 1,3-butylene glycol are particularly suitable.
[0040]
Production of melanolytic substances consisting of basidiomycetes of the genus Pleurotus, Pholiota, Lentinus, Auricularia, Clitocybe, Pseudohiatula, and Phellinus Can be used after culturing mycelium in potato-dextrose medium, malt extract medium, Chapec-Dox medium, Ebios medium, yeast extract medium, Sabouraud medium, oatmeal medium, etc., and then drying the culture solution as it is. In addition, peroxidases present in the culture solution are salted out with salts such as ammonium sulfate. The substance precipitated by salting out may be dried and used as it is, but it can be used after further purification if necessary. The amount of the purified peroxidase in the cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.00001 to 10.0% by weight, and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1% by weight.
[0041]
Moreover, it is also possible to filter the said culture solution and to mix | blend with cosmetics as it is. In this case, the blending amount can be used in the range of 0.01 to 100% by weight, and preferably in the range of 10.0 to 50.0% by weight.
[0042]
Kojic acid and its derivatives and their salts, ellagic acid and their derivatives and their salts, endothelin antagonists, ascorbic acid and their derivatives and their salts, glutathione and their derivatives and their salts, cysteine and their used as whitening ingredients Derivatives and salts thereof, resorcin and derivatives thereof, and salts thereof, hydroquinone and derivatives thereof, and salts thereof, glabrizine, glabrene, liquiritin, isoliquiritin, and licorice extract, placenta extract, carotenoids and the like containing these Animal and plant extracts, Ireisen extract, sunflower seed extract, Ibukitorano extract, Agetsu extract, Ogon extract, Ononis extract, seaweed extract, Kudin extract, Gokahi extract, fat and oil containing linoleic acid, Reno Fats and oils containing acid, Saishin extract, Hawthorn extract, Shirayuri extract, Peonies extract, Sempukuka extract, Sakuhakuhi extract, soybean extract, tea extract, Toki extract, sandalwood extract, beech extract , Grape seed extract, hop extract, mica squid extract, yukinoshita extract, yokoinin extract, each material is dried and then finely pulverized 1 to 1000 times by weight, especially 10-100 It is preferable to use a double amount of solvent at 0 ° C. or higher, particularly 20 ° C. to 40 ° C. for 1 hour or longer, particularly 3 to 7 days. Moreover, you may heat-extract at 60-100 degreeC for 1 hour.
[0043]
Each of the above-mentioned extracts obtained under the above conditions may be used as an extracted solution. However, if necessary, it is necessary to appropriately use a concentrated and powdered product after filtration or the like. I can do it.
[0044]
The blending amount of the whitening component in the cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.00001 to 20.0% by weight in terms of the evaporated and dried content, and particularly the range of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight is optimal.
[0045]
In addition to the above essential components, the cosmetics of the present invention are aqueous components, oily components, plant extracts, animal extracts, powders, excipients, surfactants, oils, alcohols, pH adjusters, preservatives, antioxidants. It is prepared by mixing agents and thickeners, sweeteners, pigments, fragrances, and the like as necessary and blending appropriately. The dosage form of the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, and can be various dosage forms such as lotion, milky lotion, cream, pack, powder, spray, ointment, dispersion, and cleaning agent.
[0046]
【Example】
Examples of melanin degradation of various products according to the present invention and elimination of Kusumi / stain / sobacas by melanin production inhibitory effects are shown below, and examples of prescriptions applied to cosmetics using the materials are described here. Needless to say, the present invention is not limited to these examples.
[0047]
Cultivation of wood-rotting fungi As wood-rotting fungi, oyster mushroom (IFO: No.30776), numerisugitake mushroom (IFO: No.30265), shiitake mushroom (IFO: No.30719.), Jellyfish (IFO: No.5949.), The strains purchased from the Fermentation Research Institute were used for gray shimeji (IFO: No. 9350) and Pseudohiatula oshimae (IFO: No. 30370). Meshimakobu is aseptically excised from a natural fruiting body and placed on a potato-dextrose agar medium prepared from Potato-Dextrose Broth (Difco) 2.4% and agar 1.5%. After 2 weeks of culture, the mycelium obtained was used. As the medium, a yeast medium prepared by dissolving 3.0 g of yeast extract, 3.0 g of polypeptone, 3.0 g of malt extract, and 1.0 g of sucrose in 1 L of purified water was used. The culture was performed by adding 100 ml of a culture solution to a 200 ml Erlenmeyer flask, sterilizing, planting mycelia, and rotating culture at 24 ° C. and 150 rpm for 10 days.
[0048]
Determination of manganese peroxidase titer
Add 1 ml of 2,6-dimethoxyphenol (2,6-DMP) 1% aqueous solution to 2 ml of culture medium, 0.3 ml of buffer solution prepared to pH 4.5 with 0.2 M-citrate-NaOH, 0.7 ml of purified water, and 10 minutes The subsequent change in absorbance at 475 nm was measured.
[0049]
[Table 1]
Manganese peroxidase activity in various bacterial cultures
[0050]
As shown in Table 1, the culture solution of any strain showed high activity. In particular, the gray shimeji broth showed a manganese peroxidase activity as high as 4.31.
[0051]
Preparation of Manganese Peroxidase and Melanin Decomposition Add 100 g of ammonium sulfate to 100 ml of the culture solution and dissolve. Leave at 4 ° C for 1 day to cause precipitation. The precipitate is collected by centrifugation at 3,000 rpm for 10 minutes and dried to obtain a crude enzyme powder. This powder is dissolved in 10 ml of purified water to make an enzyme solution. To 5 ml of the prepared enzyme solution, 50 μl of a 0.1 g / ml squid mimelanin (Glyco Nutrition Foods) dispersed aqueous solution was added and left at room temperature for 3 days. Thereafter, the absorbance at 400 nm of the solution obtained by filtering melanin was measured, and the degree of degradation of melanin was measured.
[0052]
[Table 2]
Degradation of melanin in enzyme solutions purified from various strains
[0053]
As shown in Table 2, it was found that the enzyme solution prepared from any strain decomposed melanin and the absorbance value at 400 nm increased. In the case of using purified water instead of the enzyme solution as a negative target, the absorbance value at 400 nm hardly increased. In particular, the enzyme solution prepared from gray shimeji mushroom showed a high value of 3.85, and melanin decomposition was advanced. Further, from comparison with Table 1, it was confirmed that those having high manganese peroxidase activity also had high melanolytic activity.
[0054]
Next, although the example of the formulation example of the cosmetics which mix | blended various components of this invention is shown, this invention is not limited to this.
Cosmetic formulation example [0055]
(1) Cosmetic cream (wt%)
a) Beeswax ... 2.0
b) Stearyl alcohol ... 5.0
c) Stearic acid: 8.0
d) Squalane ... 10.0
e) Self-emulsifying glyceryl monostearate ... 3.0
f) Polyoxyethylene cetyl ether (20E.O.) ... 1.0
g) Oyster mushroom broth ... 10.0
h) Peonies extract ... 0.5
i) Ascorbic acid glucoside ... 2.0
j) 1,3-butylene glycol ... 5.0
k) Potassium hydroxide ... 0.3
l) Preservatives / Antioxidants ... appropriate amount
m) Purified water: The rest of the manufacturing method a) to f) is dissolved by heating and kept at 80 ° C. Heat up to H) to m), keep at 80 ° C., add to a) to f), emulsify, and cool to 40 ° C. with stirring. Then g) is added and stirred to dissolve uniformly.
[0056]
(2) Emulsion (wt%)
a) Beeswax ... 0.5
b) Petrolatum ... 2.0
c) Squalane ... 8.0
d) Sorbitan sesquioleate ... 0.8
e) Polyoxyethylene oleyl ether (20E.O.) ... 1.2
f) Gray shimeji broth ... 15.0
g) Ireisen extract ... 2.0
h) 1,3-butylene glycol ... 7.0
i) Carboxyvinyl polymer ... 0.2
j) Potassium hydroxide ... 0.1
k) Purified water: balance
l) Preservatives / Antioxidants ... appropriate amount
m) Ethanol ... 7.0
The process up to production methods a) to e) are dissolved by heating and kept at 80 ° C. Heat up to h) to l), keep at 80 ° C., add to a) to e), emulsify, and cool to 50 ° C. with stirring. Add f), g), m) at 50 ° C., stir to 40 ° C. and cool.
[0057]
(3) Lotion (wt%)
a) Dried fungus culture ... 0.1
b) Magnesium phosphate ascorbate ... 1.0
c) Glycerin ... 5.0
d) Polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate (20E.O.) ... 1.0
e) Ethanol ... 6.0
f) Perfume ... appropriate amount
g) Preservatives / Antioxidants ...
h) Purified water: Remaining preparation method a) and b) are mixed uniformly. c) to h) are mixed and dissolved uniformly. Mix two agents when using.
[0058]
(4) Lotion (wt%)
a) Manganese peroxidase: 0.01
b) Glutathione ... 0.1
c) Glycerin ... 5.0
d) Polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate (20E.O.) ... 1.0
e) Ethanol ... 6.0
f) Perfume ... appropriate amount
g) Preservatives / Antioxidants ...
h) Purified water: Mix the remaining manufacturing methods a) to b). c) to h) are mixed and dissolved uniformly. Mix two agents when using.
[0059]
(5) Facial cleanser (wt%)
a) Oyster mushroom broth dried product ... 0.1
b) Ascorbic acid glucoside ... 2.0
c) Peonies extract ... 0.5
d) Talc ... remainder
e) Cellulose ... 20.0
f) Potassium myristate ... 30.0
g) Sodium lauryl phosphate ... 10.0
h) Perfume
i) Preservatives: Appropriate amount of production method a) to i) are mixed, stirred and dispersed well to make uniform.
[0060]
[Effectiveness confirmation test]
(1) Human effect confirmation test by application As a test subject, 15 women of 20 to 50 years old use the product of the present invention and the comparative product twice a day (morning and night) for 2 consecutive months. The condition of the part was compared before and after the test, and the improvement effect was investigated. In this test, the cosmetics indicated by [0055] and [0059] were used as test products, and the control product 1 was a cosmetic obtained by removing the oyster mushroom culture solution from the cosmetics indicated by [0055] and [0059] For Control 2, a cosmetic prepared by removing the peony extract and ascorbic acid glucoside from the cosmetic shown in [0059] was prepared, and the effects of its use were examined. While using cosmetics containing the active ingredient of the present invention daily, skin smears and whitening effects were tabulated before and after application for 2 months to confirm the effects. The results are shown in Table 3. As is clear from Table 3, the test product consisting of the whitening component and the melanin-degrading substance is more effective than the control product 1 consisting only of the conventional whitening component and the control product 2 consisting only of the melanin-degrading substance. Admitted.
[0061]
[Table 3]
[0062]
【The invention's effect】
As described in detail above, the cosmetic of the present invention has a high whitening effect because it decomposes melanin in the stratum corneum and suppresses melanin production by the whitening component blended at the same time.
Claims (2)
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WO2005026290A1 (en) | 2003-09-10 | 2005-03-24 | Shiseido Co., Ltd. | Antioxidant, whitening agent and skin preparation for external use containing the same |
JP4643208B2 (en) * | 2003-09-10 | 2011-03-02 | 文陽 江口 | Antioxidant, whitening agent, and external preparation for skin containing the same |
JP4440612B2 (en) * | 2003-12-02 | 2010-03-24 | 花王株式会社 | Microbe |
JP4837303B2 (en) * | 2005-03-30 | 2011-12-14 | 株式会社ナリス化粧品 | Cosmetics |
JP2006282594A (en) * | 2005-03-31 | 2006-10-19 | Naris Cosmetics Co Ltd | External preparation for skin |
JP2010042026A (en) * | 2009-11-16 | 2010-02-25 | Kao Corp | Microorganism |
JP5791879B2 (en) * | 2010-06-22 | 2015-10-07 | 三省製薬株式会社 | NF-κB activation inhibitor and pore care agent |
JP5399466B2 (en) * | 2011-12-26 | 2014-01-29 | 敏 新川 | Tyrosinase inhibitor |
CN104983602A (en) * | 2015-08-11 | 2015-10-21 | 上海奥利实业有限公司 | Whitening agent combining water-soluble glabridin and endothelin antagonist |
CN115337235B (en) * | 2022-07-25 | 2023-06-13 | 上海林清轩生物科技有限公司 | Multiple whitening pathway composition containing safflower camellia extract |
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JPH06219933A (en) * | 1991-07-12 | 1994-08-09 | Kobe Steel Ltd | Method for decomposing melanin and decomposable substance of melanin |
JPH05163135A (en) * | 1991-12-16 | 1993-06-29 | Suntory Ltd | Beautifying cosmetic composition |
JPH06269278A (en) * | 1993-03-19 | 1994-09-27 | Sanki Eng Co Ltd | Melanin-decoloring microbe |
JP3407935B2 (en) * | 1993-06-30 | 2003-05-19 | 三省製薬株式会社 | External preparation for skin |
JPH07165553A (en) * | 1993-12-07 | 1995-06-27 | Kobe Steel Ltd | Agent for preventing and treating disease caused by melamin |
JPH07157409A (en) * | 1993-12-07 | 1995-06-20 | Kobe Steel Ltd | Skin-beautifying cosmetic |
JPH07213294A (en) * | 1994-02-04 | 1995-08-15 | Sekisui Chem Co Ltd | Melamine pigmenrt-decomposing substance, production thereof and decomposition of melamine pigment therewith |
JPH07258062A (en) * | 1994-03-17 | 1995-10-09 | Kansai Kouso Kk | Cosmetic |
JP3432940B2 (en) * | 1994-03-31 | 2003-08-04 | 臼杵製薬株式会社 | External preparation for skin |
JP2000119156A (en) * | 1998-10-14 | 2000-04-25 | Kose Corp | Skin lotion |
JP4824181B2 (en) * | 2001-02-13 | 2011-11-30 | 日本メナード化粧品株式会社 | Topical skin preparation |
US6514506B1 (en) * | 2001-02-14 | 2003-02-04 | Color Access, Inc. | Whitening compositions containing ascomycete derived enzyme |
JP2003226637A (en) * | 2001-05-18 | 2003-08-12 | Kanebo Ltd | Cleansing sheet |
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