JP3813515B2 - Wash-out cosmetic - Google Patents

Description

【００１１】
〔式中、Ｒ¹及びＲ²は同一又は異なって、１以上のヒドロキシ基が置換していてもよい炭素数７〜39の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基を示し、Ｒ³及びＲ⁴は同一又は異なって、水素原子、リン酸塩残基、硫酸塩残基又は糖残基を示す。ただし、１分子中に１以上のヒドロキシ基を有する。〕
【００１２】
一般式(1)において、Ｒ¹の炭化水素基としては、炭素数９〜25の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和若しくは不飽和の炭化水素基が好ましく、Ｒ²の炭化水素基としては、炭素数10〜26の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和若しくは不飽和の炭化水素基が好ましく、Ｒ³及びＲ⁴としては、水素原子が好ましい。
【００１３】
上記アミド誘導体(1)の製造法については特開昭62-228048号公報、特開昭63-216852号公報等に詳述されている。
【００１４】
成分(a)の両親媒性脂質は、いずれかを単独で又は２種以上を組み合わせて使用することができ、本発明の分散液中に５〜４０重量％、好ましくは１０〜３０重量％配合される。
【００１５】
本発明に用いられる成分(a)の平均粒径は、刺激低減効果及び洗い流し型化粧料中での安定性の観点から、0.5〜150μｍであるのが好ましく、より好ましくは１〜150μｍであり、さらに好ましくは１〜80μｍ、特に好ましくは１〜50μｍである。なお、ここでいう平均粒径は、光学顕微鏡で透過光下で写真撮影した後、写真上で任意に粒子を30個選び、各粒子について、直線距離で最長の部分を計測した際の算術平均値である。
【００１６】
本発明の分散液に使用される成分(b)の界面活性剤は、成分(a)を分散する目的で用いられる。該界面活性剤としては、一般に化粧品用として用いられるもの、例えば非イオン界面活性剤、陰イオン界面活性剤及び両性界面活性剤から選ばれる１種以上が挙げられる。このうち、非イオン界面活性剤としては、アルキルポリグリコシド、ポリオキシアルキレンアルキル又はアルケニルエーテル、ポリオキシアルキレンソルビタン脂肪酸エステル、ソルビタン脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシアルキレンソルビトール脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシアルキレングリセリン脂肪酸エステル、ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステル、脂肪酸モノグリセリド、ポリエチレングリコール脂肪酸エステル及び脂肪酸アルカノールアミド等が挙げられる。また、陰イオン界面活性剤としては、ポリオキシアルキレンアルキルエーテル酢酸又はその塩、Ｎ−アシルアミノ酸塩、ポリオキシアルキレンアルキルエーテル硫酸塩、ポリオキシアルキレンアルキルエーテルリン酸塩、アルキルリン酸塩、Ｎ−アシルメチルタウリン塩、アルキルスルホコハク酸塩、ポリオキシアルキレンアルキルスルホコハク酸塩、脂肪酸塩等が挙げられる。両性界面活性剤としては、アルキルアミノ酢酸ベタイン、アルキルアミンオキサイド、アルキルアミドプロピルベタイン、アルキルヒドロキシスルホベタイン及びアミドアミノ酸（イミダゾリン系ベタイン）等が挙げられる。
【００１７】
中でも好ましいものとして、非イオン界面活性剤、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテル酢酸又はその塩が挙げられる。非イオン界面活性剤としては、アルキルポリグリコシド、ポリオキシアルキレンアルキル又はアルケニルエーテル、ポリオキシアルキレンソルビタン脂肪酸エステル及びソルビタン脂肪酸エステルから選ばれるものが好ましい。
【００１８】
特に好ましい非イオン界面活性剤としては、アルキルポリグリコシド、例えばアルキル基の炭素数８〜１４で糖（グルコース）の縮合度１〜２のもの；ポリオキシアルキレンアルキル又はアルケニルエーテル、例えばアルキル基又はアルケニル基の炭素数８〜１８でエチレンオキシドの平均付加モル数４〜２５、好ましくは４〜１５のもの；ポリオキシアルキレンソルビタン脂肪酸エステル、例えば脂肪酸の炭素数８〜２０でエチレンオキシドの平均付加モル数５〜２５のもの；ソルビタン脂肪酸エステル、例えば炭素数８〜２０の脂肪酸のモノエステル等が特に好ましい。また、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテル酢酸又はその塩としては、炭素数８〜２０でエチレンオキシド平均付加モル数３〜１５の酸そのもの又はそのアルカリ金属等の塩が挙げられる。すなわち、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテル酢酸は、中和せず、そのまま用いてもよいし、適宜中和して用いてもよい。またカチオン界面活性剤を更に添加することにより、皮膚、毛髪への両親媒性脂質の吸着性を上げることができる。
【００１９】
成分(b)の界面活性剤は、いずれかを単独で又は２種以上を組み合わせて使用することができ、本発明分散液中に２〜55重量％、好ましくは５〜40重量％配合される。
【００２０】
ここで、成分(a)の両親媒性脂質と成分(b)の界面活性剤の含有重量比率(a)／(b)が90/10〜25/75、更に80/20〜30/70、特に70/30〜40/60が好ましい。
【００２１】
本発明の分散液は、例えば、成分(a)の両親媒性脂質、成分(b)の界面活性剤及び水の混合物を両親媒性脂質の融点以上（融点〜融点＋10℃程度）まで攪拌しながら加熱・融解し、均一状態になった後、攪拌しながら冷却し、成分(a)を晶析させることにより製造することができる。
【００２２】
本発明に用いられる成分（Ａ）の配合量は、高齢者の皮膚の保湿効果及びかさつき改善効果、皮膚の痒みや湿疹の抑制効果の観点から、洗い流し型化粧料中に０．０１〜３０重量％が好ましく、０．０５〜２０重量％がより好ましく、０．１〜１０重量％が更に好ましく、０．１〜５重量％が特に好ましい。
【００２３】
本発明に用いられる成分（Ａ）中の成分(a)の配合量は、高齢者の皮膚の保湿効果及びかさつき改善効果、皮膚の痒みや湿疹の抑制効果の観点から、洗い流し型化粧料中に成分(a)として０．０００５〜１０重量％が好ましく、０．００１〜５重量％がより好ましく、０．００５〜５重量％が更に好ましく、０．０１〜５重量％が特に好ましい。成分（Ａ）中の成分(a)は２種以上含有してもよく、その場合は合計した重量を含有量とする。
【００２４】
本発明に用いられる成分（Ｂ）としては、角層中のセラミドを増加させ、皮膚のバリア機能及び保湿機能を回復させることができるセラミド産生促進剤であれば、特に制限されるものではない。例えば、セラミド産生酵素の活性化でセラミドを産生するスフィンゴリン脂質、セラミドの合成を助ける乳精、あるいはユーカリ、ホップ、ショウガ、ガンビールノキ、ノイバラ、セイヨウトチノキ、ユリ、ハトムギ、ガマ、ビワ、クチナシ、オタネニンジン、サボンソウ、シラカバ、アマチャ、チョウジ、ベニバナ、ワレモコウ、イリス及びクララ等から選ばれる植物又はその抽出物、水蒸気蒸留物若しくは圧搾物を有効成分とするセラミド産生促進剤が挙げられる。好ましくは、ユーカリ、ホップ、ショウガ、ノイバラ、セイヨウトチノキ、サボンソウ、チョウジ、ベニバナ、ワレモコウ、及びクララから選ばれる植物又はその抽出物、水蒸気蒸留物若しくは圧搾物を有効成分とするセラミド産生促進剤が挙げられる。
【００２５】
本発明で用いる植物のうち、ユーカリは、ユーカリノキ Eucalyptus globulus又はその他近縁のフトモモ科（Myrtaceae）の植物であり、主としてその葉、小枝、花又は果実が用いられる。
【００２６】
ホップ Humulus lupulus は、クワ科（Moraceae）の植物であり、主としてその雌花穂が用いられる。
【００２７】
ショウガ Zingiber officinale Roscoe は、ショウガ科（Zingiberaceae）の植物であり、主としてその根茎（ショウキョウ）が用いられる。
【００２８】
ガンビールノキ Uncaria gambir Roxburghは、アカネ科（Rubiaseae）の植物であり、主としてその葉及び若枝が用いられる。
【００２９】
ノイバラ Rosa multiflora Thunberg は、バラ科（Rosaceae）の植物であり、主としてその偽果又は果実（堅果）（エイジツ）が用いられる。
【００３０】
セイヨウトチノキ Aesculus hippocastanum Linne は、トチノキ科（Hippocastanaceae）の植物であり、主としてその種子、葉又は樹皮が用いられる。
【００３１】
ユリ Lilium candidum は、ユリ科（Liliaceae）の植物であり、主としてその球根が用いられる。
【００３２】
ハトムギ Coix lacryma-jobi Linne var. ma-yuen Stapf は、イネ科（Gramineae）の植物であり、主として種皮を除いた種子（ヨクイニン）が用いられる。
【００３３】
ガマは、ヒメガマ Typha angustifolia Linne 又はその他同属のガマ科（Typhaceae）の植物であり、主としてその花穂が用いられる。
【００３４】
ビワ Eriobotrya japonica Lindley は、バラ科（Rosaceae）の植物であり、主としてその葉が用いられる。
【００３５】
クチナシ Gardenia jasminoides Ellis. は、アカネ科（Rubiaseae）の植物であり、主としてその果実が用いられる。
【００３６】
オタネニンジン Panax ginseng C. A. Meyer (Panax schinseng Nees) は、ウコギ科（Araliaceae）の植物であり、主としてその根又は根を蒸して乾燥したものが用いられる。
【００３７】
サボンソウ Saponaria officinalis Linne は、ナデシコ科（Caryophyllaceae）の植物であり、主としてその葉又は根が用いられる。
【００３８】
シラカバは、ヨーロッパシラカバ Betula pendula Roth. 又はその他同属のカバノキ科（Betulaceae）の植物であり、主としてその葉、樹皮、木部又は樹液が用いられる。
【００３９】
アマチャHydrangea serrata Seringe var. thunbergii Sugimoto（Hydrangeamacrophylla Seringe var. thunbergii Makino）は、ユキノシタ科（Saxifragaceae）の植物であり、主としてその葉又は枝先が用いられる。
【００４０】
チョウジ Syzygium aromaticum Merrill et Perry（Eugenia caryophyllata Thunberg）は、フトモモ科（Myrtaceae）の植物であり、主としてそのつぼみ、花柄、未熟な果実又は葉が用いられる。
【００４１】
ベニバナ Carthamus tinctorius Linne は、キク科（Compositae）の植物であり、主としてその花若しくは花から黄色色素の大部分を除いたもの、又は全草が用いられる。
【００４２】
ワレモコウ Sanguisorba officinalis Linne は、バラ科（Rosaceae）の植物であり、主としてその根又は根茎が用いられる。
【００４３】
イリスは、アヤメ科（Iridaceae）の植物であり、例えばシロバナイリス Irisflorentina L.、ムラサキイリス Iris germania L. 、シボリイリス Iris pallida L. 等が挙げられ、主としてその根茎が用いられる。
【００４４】
クララ Sophora flavescens Aiton は、マメ科（Leguminosae）の植物であり、主としてその根又は根の周皮の大部分を除いたものが用いられる。
【００４５】
本発明においては、上記植物をそのまま、又は乾燥粉砕して用いることもできるが、その抽出物、水蒸気蒸留物又は圧搾物を用いることもでき、これらは精油等、より精製したものを用いることもでき、また市販品を利用することもできる。これら植物又はその抽出物、水蒸気蒸留物若しくは圧搾物は、いずれかを単独で、又は２種以上を組み合わせて使用できる。
【００４６】
抽出に用いる溶媒としては、通常植物成分の抽出に用いられるもの、例えば水、石油エーテル、n−ヘキサン、トルエン、ジクロロエタン、クロロホルム、エーテル、酢酸エチル、アセトン、メタノール、エタノール、プロパノール、ブタノール、エチレングリコール、プロピレングリコール、ブチレングリコール等が挙げられ、特に水、エタノール、プロピレングリコール、ブチレングリコールが好ましい。これらは単独で又は２種以上を組み合わせて使用できる。また抽出条件も通常の条件を適用でき、例えば上記植物を３〜100℃で数時間〜数週間浸漬又は加熱還流すればよい。精油として利用する場合も通常の方法を採用でき、例えば上記植物から水蒸気蒸留法、抽出法、圧搾法等により得ることができる。これら植物の抽出物、水蒸気蒸留物若しくは圧搾物は、そのまま本発明のセラミド産生促進剤の有効成分として使用できるが、さらに適当な分離手段、例えばゲル濾過、クロマトグラフィー、精密蒸留等により活性の高い画分を分画して用いることもできる。
【００４７】
本発明に用いられる成分（Ｂ）の配合量は、高齢者の皮膚の保湿効果及びかさつき改善効果、皮膚の痒みや湿疹の抑制効果の観点から、洗い流し型化粧料中に固形分換算で０．００００１〜１０重量％が好ましく、０．００００５〜１０重量％がより好ましく、０．０００１〜５重量％が更に好ましく、０．０００１〜１重量％が特に好ましい。成分（Ｂ）は２種以上含有してもよく、その場合は合計した重量を含有量とする。
【００４８】
本発明に用いられる成分(a)と固形分換算した成分（Ｂ）の含有重量比率(a)／（Ｂ）は、高齢者の皮膚の保湿効果及びかさつき改善効果、皮膚の痒みや湿疹の抑制効果の観点から、０．０１／１〜１／０．００００１が好ましく、０．０５／１〜１／０．０００１がより好ましく、０．１／１〜１／０．０００１が更に好ましく、１／１〜１／０．０００１が特に好ましい。
【００４９】
本発明に用いられる成分(Ａ)には、油剤；粘度調整剤；酸化防止剤；紫外線吸収剤；殺菌剤；防腐剤；ｐＨ調整剤；色素；香料；炭酸ナトリウム、炭酸カリウム、硫酸ナトリウム等の無機化合物等を適宜配合することができる。
【００５０】
本発明に用いられる成分(Ｃ)としては、皮膚の消炎作用または抗炎症作用があれば、特に制限されるものではない。高齢者の皮膚の痒みや湿疹の抑制効果の観点から、好ましくはグアイアズレン、アラントイン、グリチルリチン酸、グリチルリチン酸塩、トラネキサム酸、ε−アミノ−ｎ−カプロン酸エステル、エピジヒドロコレステロール、エピジヒドロコレステロールリン酸エステル等が挙げられる。特に好ましくは、グアイアズレン、アラントイン、グリチルリチン酸、グリチルリチン酸塩が挙げられる
【００５１】
本発明に用いられる成分（Ｃ）の配合量は、高齢者の皮膚の痒みや湿疹の抑制効果の観点から、洗い流し型化粧料中に０．０００１〜１０重量％が好ましく、０．００１〜５重量％がより好ましく、０．０１〜５重量％が更に好ましく、０．１〜２重量％が特に好ましい。成分（Ｃ）は２種以上含有してもよく、その場合は合計した重量を含有量とする。
【００５２】
本発明の洗い流し型化粧料には、洗浄性、泡立ち性、乳化安定性等を高める目的で、前記した成分(b)と同様な界面活性剤を適宜配合することができる。
界面活性剤の配合量は、本発明洗い流し型化粧料の５〜95重量％、好ましくは10〜50重量％、より好ましくは10〜35重量％である。
【００５３】
本発明の洗い流し型化粧料には、防腐剤又は殺菌剤を配合することができる。例えば、安息香酸、メチルパラベン、エチルパラベン、プロピルパラベン、ブチルパラベン、エタノール、イソプロパノール、イソプロピルメチルフェノール、塩化ベンザルコニウム、塩化ベンゼトニウム、グルコン酸クロロヘキシジン等が挙げられる。これらの防腐剤又は殺菌剤を配合する場合には、洗い流し型化粧料中に０．０００１〜５重量％、好ましくは０．００１〜５重量％、更に好ましくは０．００５〜２重量％、特に好ましくは０．００５〜１重量％となるように配合することが好ましい。
【００５４】
本発明の洗い流し型化粧料には、高級アルコール、ラノリン、スクワラン、炭化水素、シリコーン類等の油剤；カチオン化セルロース、カチオン化グアガム、マーコート550(メルク)等のカチオン化ポリマー；メチルセルロース、ヒドロキシエチルセルロース、カルボキシビニルポリマー、多糖類（キサンタンガム等）等の水溶性高分子；ポリオキシアルキレンソルビタンエステル、ポリオキシエチレン脂肪酸エステル、エタノール、グリセリン、ソルビトール等の粘度調整剤や溶解助剤；エチレンジアミン四酢酸（EDTA）、ホスホン酸塩類等のキレート剤；メチルパラベン、ブチルパラベン等の防腐剤；ビタミン類又はその前駆体等の栄養成分；レシチン、ゼラチン等の動植物抽出物又はその誘導体；ナイロン、ポリエチレン等のポリマー微粉体；ジブチルヒドロキシトルエン等の酸化防止剤；その他紫外線吸収剤、pH調整剤、色素、香料等を、適宜配合することができる。
【００５５】
本発明の洗い流し型化粧料としては、シャンプー、リンス等の毛髪用のもの、洗顔料、洗顔パック等の顔用のもの、あるいはマッサージ剤、ボディーシャンプー等の全身用のものが挙げられる。
また、本発明の洗い流し型化粧料は、固形、ペースト状、液状等いずれの剤形にすることもできる。
【００５６】
本発明の洗い流し型化粧料には、両親媒性脂質及びセラミド産生促進剤が配合されているため、皮膚の保湿効果及びかさつき改善効果に優れ、高齢者の乾燥した皮膚に潤いを与え、痒みや湿疹を抑えることができる。従って、本発明の洗い流し型化粧料は高齢者の身体洗浄はもちろん、尿や便による刺激で皮膚が荒れ易いお尻周りの皮膚洗浄や、かさつきやすい創傷周りの皮膚洗浄には最適である。
【００５７】
【実施例】
製造例１
両親媒性脂質(a)〔一般式(1)においてＲ¹＝C₁₅H₃₁，Ｒ²＝C₁₆H₃₃，Ｒ³＝Ｈ，Ｒ⁴＝Ｈで融点74〜76℃のもの〕２０重量部、マイドール10〔有効分40重量％，デシルポリグルコシド（縮合度１〜1.35）；花王〕２０重量部及び水６０重量部を80〜85℃に昇温した後、攪拌しながら冷却して両親媒性脂質を晶析させ、更に攪拌しながら室温まで冷却し、分散液（１）を調製した。得られた分散液はパール様外観を有しており、この分散液中の両親媒性脂質の粒子は、平均粒径18.5μmの針状結晶であった。
【００５８】
製造例２
両親媒性脂質(a)〔一般式(1)においてＲ¹＝C₁₅H₃₁，Ｒ²＝C₁₆H₃₃，Ｒ³＝Ｈ，Ｒ⁴＝Ｈで融点74〜76℃のもの〕１５重量部、両親媒性脂質(b)〔一般式(1)においてＲ¹＝C₉H₁₉，Ｒ²＝C₁₆H₃₃，Ｒ³＝Ｈ，Ｒ⁴＝Ｈで融点53〜57℃のもの〕５重量部、エマルゲン１０６〔ポリオキシエチレン（５）ラウリルエーテル；花王〕１５重量部及び水６５重量部を80〜85℃に昇温した後、攪拌しながら冷却して両親媒性脂質を晶析させ、更に攪拌しながら室温まで冷却し、分散液（２）を調製した。得られた分散液はパール様外観を有しており、この分散液中の両親媒性脂質の粒子は、平均粒径8.3μmの針状結晶であった。
【００５９】
実施例１〜８
表１に示した配合処方に従って、常法により実施例１〜８で示す本発明の洗い流し型化粧料を製造した。また、比較例１〜４で示した洗い流し型化粧料を製造した。
【００６０】
【表１】

【００６１】
皮膚のかさつき、痒み、湿疹等の皮膚症状を抱える６５歳以上の２０名のパネラーに、一日一回、入浴時に身体の洗浄試験を７日間連続して実施した。その結果を表２に示す。
【００６２】
【表２】

【００６３】
表２の結果から、本発明の洗い流し型化粧料は皮膚のかさつき改善効果、痒みや湿疹の抑制効果が高いことが明らかとなった。
【００６４】
実施例９
実施例１と比較例１の洗い流し型化粧料を用いて、お尻周りに湿疹が認められる、６５歳以上のおむつ常用者１０名のパネラーに、一日一回、おむつ交換時にお尻周りの洗浄試験を２週間連続して実施した。使用試験後、皮膚の症状について試験開始前と２週間後をそれぞれ診断して、改善度を顕著改善、改善、やや改善、不変、及び悪化の５段階で評価した。その結果を表３に示す。
【００６５】
【表３】

【００６６】
表３の結果から、本発明の洗い流し型化粧料は皮膚の改善効果が高いことが明らかとなった。
【００６７】
【発明の効果】
本発明の洗い流し型化粧料は、皮膚の保湿効果及びかさつき改善効果に優れ、高齢者の乾燥した皮膚に潤いを与えて痒みや湿疹の抑制効果に優れるものである。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a washout-type cosmetic, and particularly to a washout-type cosmetic that is optimal for the elderly.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, moisture in the stratum corneum is important to moisturize and soften the skin, and water retention in this stratum corneum, namely free amino acids, urea, organic acids, It is known that inorganic ions are involved. For this reason, for the purpose of improving or preventing rough skin, such a water-soluble component is blended in the wash-out type cosmetic. For the same purpose, various moisturizing substances having high affinity with water have been developed and blended into wash-out cosmetics. In particular, many elderly people have dry skin, and many symptoms such as senile xeroderma, senile pruritus, and sebum-deficient eczema are observed. A lot of fees are used.
[0003]
However, when these moisturizing substances are applied to the skin, the action is to supply moisture to the stratum corneum and to the stratum corneum, and since the effect is temporary, It was not intended to improve moisture retention and essentially prevent or cure rough skin.
[0004]
By the way, some attempts have been made to protect the skin and hair by blending amphipathic lipids such as ceramide into wash-out cosmetics. That is, hair cosmetics containing amide derivatives that are ceramide analogues (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 64-9913), hair cosmetics containing glycoceramides and cationic surfactants (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 6-502660), anionic interfaces A composition for cleaning and treating hair or skin containing an active agent, an amphoteric surfactant, a cationic polymer and ceramide or glycoceramide (JP-A-8-59443) has been reported. However, in these cosmetics, since ceramides are solid at room temperature, only a small amount (up to about 2% by weight) can be stably blended. Further, when ceramides are dissolved in another medium to form a liquid emulsion, there is a problem that the effect cannot be obtained sufficiently.
[0005]
Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2000-239151 describes a wash-out type cosmetic comprising a dispersion containing an amphiphilic lipid as a dispersoid. However, it is insufficient for elderly people with dry skin, and it has been difficult to suppress itching and eczema.
[0006]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide a washout-type cosmetic material that is excellent in skin moisturizing effect and improvement effect on the skin, moisturizes dry skin and suppresses itching and eczema, and is optimal for elderly people.
[0007]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present inventors have successfully restored the ceramide production mechanism of the living body in order to recover the dispersion liquid containing the amphiphilic lipid and the surfactant in the aqueous medium and the skin having a high barrier function and moisturizing function, A wash-out type cosmetic compounded with a ceramide production promoter that increases ceramide in the reduced stratum corneum is superior in moisturizing and improving the skin, moisturizes dry skin and prevents itching and eczema. The present invention was completed by finding out that the composition is optimal for the elderly.
[0008]
That is, the present invention includes the following components (A) and (B):
(A) The following components (a) and (b)
(a) 5-40% by weight of an amphiphilic lipid having a hydroxy group and an amide group in the molecule as a dispersoid, and
(b) 2 to 55% by weight of surfactant
A wash-off type cosmetic comprising a dispersion containing an aqueous medium and at least one substance selected from (B) a ceramide production accelerator is provided.
The present invention also includes the following components (A) and (B):
(A) The following components (a) and (b)
(a) an amphiphilic lipid having a hydroxy group and an amide group in the molecule as a dispersoid, and
The present invention provides a wash-out type cosmetic containing at least one substance selected from (b) a dispersion containing a surfactant in an aqueous medium, and (B) a ceramide production accelerator.
[0009]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The amphipathic lipid having a hydroxy group and an amide group in the molecule of component (a) used in the dispersion in the present invention includes natural ceramides, synthetic ceramides, and analogs obtained by synthesis thereof (pseudo). Ceramide), which is solid at room temperature (25 ° C.). Examples of such amphiphilic lipids include Ceramide H03 (Sederma), Ceramide II (Sederma), Questamide H (Quest), Ceramide TIC-001 (Takasago Fragrance), and Sofcare Ceramide SL-E (Kao). Here, from the viewpoint of stability when a dispersion or the like is used, those having a melting point of 30 ° C. or higher are preferable, and those having a melting point of 40 ° C. or higher are more preferable. As a particularly preferred example of the ceramide analog obtained by synthesis, an amide derivative represented by the following general formula (1) containing the above-mentioned soft care ceramide SL-E can be mentioned.
[0010]
[Chemical 1]

[0011]
[Wherein, R ¹ and R ² are the same or different and each represents a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 7 to 39 carbon atoms which may be substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, R ³ and R ⁴ are the same or different and each represents a hydrogen atom, a phosphate residue, a sulfate residue or a sugar residue. However, it has one or more hydroxy groups in one molecule. ]
[0012]
In the general formula (1), the hydrocarbon group represented by R ¹ is preferably a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 9 to 25 carbon atoms, and the hydrocarbon group represented by R ² includes carbon atoms. 10-26 linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups are preferred, and R ³ and R ⁴ are preferably hydrogen atoms.
[0013]
The method for producing the amide derivative (1) is described in detail in JP-A-62-228048 and JP-A-63-216852.
[0014]
Any of the amphiphilic lipids of component (a) can be used alone or in combination of two or more thereof, and 5 to 40% by weight, preferably 10 to 30% by weight, is incorporated in the dispersion of the present invention. Is done.
[0015]
The average particle diameter of the component (a) used in the present invention is preferably 0.5 to 150 μm, more preferably 1 to 150 μm, from the viewpoint of the irritation reducing effect and the stability in the washout cosmetic. More preferably, it is 1-80 micrometers, Most preferably, it is 1-50 micrometers. The average particle size used here is an arithmetic average when taking a photograph under transmission light with an optical microscope, then arbitrarily selecting 30 particles on the photograph, and measuring the longest part of each particle with a linear distance. Value.
[0016]
The component (b) surfactant used in the dispersion of the present invention is used for the purpose of dispersing component (a). Examples of the surfactant include those generally used for cosmetics, for example, one or more selected from nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants. Among these, as the nonionic surfactant, alkyl polyglycoside, polyoxyalkylene alkyl or alkenyl ether, polyoxyalkylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyalkylene sorbitol fatty acid ester, polyoxyalkylene glycerin fatty acid ester, polyglycerin Examples include fatty acid esters, fatty acid monoglycerides, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, and fatty acid alkanolamides. Examples of the anionic surfactant include polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether acetic acid or a salt thereof, N-acyl amino acid salt, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether sulfate, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether phosphate, alkyl phosphate, N- Examples include acylmethyl taurate, alkyl sulfosuccinate, polyoxyalkylene alkyl sulfosuccinate, and fatty acid salt. Examples of amphoteric surfactants include alkylaminoacetic acid betaines, alkylamine oxides, alkylamidopropylbetaines, alkylhydroxysulfobetaines and amide amino acids (imidazoline betaines).
[0017]
Among them, preferred are nonionic surfactants, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether acetic acid and salts thereof. As the nonionic surfactant, those selected from alkyl polyglycosides, polyoxyalkylene alkyls or alkenyl ethers, polyoxyalkylene sorbitan fatty acid esters and sorbitan fatty acid esters are preferable.
[0018]
Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants include alkyl polyglycosides, such as those having an alkyl group of 8 to 14 carbon atoms and a sugar (glucose) condensation degree of 1 to 2; polyoxyalkylene alkyls or alkenyl ethers such as alkyl groups or alkenyls A group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms and an average addition mole number of ethylene oxide of 4 to 25, preferably 4 to 15; a polyoxyalkylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, for example, a fatty acid having 8 to 20 carbon atoms and an average addition mole number of ethylene oxide of 5 to 5 Particularly preferred are sorbitan fatty acid esters such as monoesters of fatty acids having 8 to 20 carbon atoms. Moreover, as polyoxyethylene alkyl ether acetic acid or its salt, salts, such as the acid itself of C8-C20 and ethylene oxide average addition mole number of 3-15, or its alkali metal are mentioned. That is, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether acetic acid may be used as it is without neutralization, or may be used after neutralization as appropriate. Further, by further adding a cationic surfactant, the adsorptivity of the amphipathic lipid to the skin and hair can be increased.
[0019]
The surfactant of component (b) can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and is incorporated in the dispersion of the present invention in an amount of 2 to 55% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight. .
[0020]
Here, the content weight ratio (a) / (b) of the amphiphilic lipid of component (a) to the surfactant of component (b) is 90/10 to 25/75, more preferably 80/20 to 30/70, 70 / 30-40 / 60 is particularly preferable.
[0021]
In the dispersion of the present invention, for example, a mixture of the amphiphilic lipid of component (a), the surfactant of component (b) and water is stirred to a temperature not lower than the melting point of the amphiphilic lipid (melting point to melting point + about 10 ° C.). The mixture is heated and melted to obtain a uniform state, then cooled with stirring, and crystallized from component (a).
[0022]
The blending amount of the component (A) used in the present invention is 0.01 to 30 in the wash-out type cosmetic from the viewpoint of the moisturizing effect and the improvement effect on the skin of the elderly, and the effect of suppressing the itching and eczema. % By weight is preferable, 0.05 to 20% by weight is more preferable, 0.1 to 10% by weight is further preferable, and 0.1 to 5% by weight is particularly preferable.
[0023]
The amount of the component (a) in the component (A) used in the present invention is determined from the viewpoint of the moisturizing effect and the improvement effect on the skin of the elderly, and the effect of suppressing the itching and eczema of the elderly. The component (a) is preferably 0.0005 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 5% by weight, still more preferably 0.005 to 5% by weight, and particularly preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight. Two or more types of component (a) in component (A) may be contained, in which case the total weight is the content.
[0024]
The component (B) used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a ceramide production promoter that can increase the ceramide in the stratum corneum and restore the skin barrier function and moisturizing function. For example, sphingophospholipids that produce ceramides by activating ceramide-producing enzymes, milk sperm that helps synthesize ceramides, or eucalyptus, hops, ginger, gambiloki, wild rose, horse chestnut, lily, barley, cattail, loquat, gardenia, ginseng And a ceramide production promoter containing as an active ingredient a plant selected from savanna, birch, acha, clove, safflower, walnut, iris, and clara, or an extract thereof, a steam distillate or a pressed product. Preferably, a ceramide production promoter comprising as an active ingredient a plant selected from eucalyptus, hops, ginger, wild rose, horse chestnut, bonito, clove, safflower, walnut, and clara, or an extract thereof, a steam distillate, or a pressed product. It is done.
[0025]
Among the plants used in the present invention, Eucalyptus is Eucalyptus globulus or other closely related Myrtaceae plant, and its leaves, twigs, flowers or fruits are mainly used.
[0026]
Hop Humulus lupulus is a plant of Moraceae, and its female flower spike is mainly used.
[0027]
Ginger Zingiber officinale Roscoe is a plant of the Zingiberaceae family, and its rhizome is mainly used.
[0028]
Gambir Uncaria gambir Roxburgh is a plant of the Rubiaseae family, and its leaves and shoots are mainly used.
[0029]
Neurose Rosa multiflora Thunberg is a plant of the Rosaceae family, and its false fruits or fruits (nuts) are mainly used.
[0030]
Horse chestnut Aesculus hippocastanum Linne is a plant of the family Hippostanstanae, and its seeds, leaves or bark are mainly used.
[0031]
Lilium candidum is a plant of the Liliumceae family, and its bulbs are mainly used.
[0032]
Coix lacryma-jobi Linne var. Ma-yuen Stapf is a plant of the Gramineae family, and seeds (yokuinin) excluding the seed coat are mainly used.
[0033]
Cattail is a plant of the family Typha angustifolia Linne or other related genera (Typhaceae), and its spikes are mainly used.
[0034]
Loquat Eriobotrya japonica Lindley is a plant of the Rosaceae family, and its leaves are mainly used.
[0035]
Gardenia jasminoides Ellis. Is a plant of the Rubiaseae family, and its fruit is mainly used.
[0036]
Panax ginseng CA Meyer (Panax schinseng Nees) is a plant of the family Araliaceae, and its roots or roots dried by steaming are used.
[0037]
Saponaria officinalis Linne is a plant of the family Caryophyllaceae, and its leaves or roots are mainly used.
[0038]
Birch is a plant of the European birch Betula pendula Roth. Or other related genera, Betulaceae, and its leaves, bark, xylem or sap are mainly used.
[0039]
Hydrangea serrata Seringe var. Thunbergii Sugimoto (Hydrangeamacrophylla Seringe var. Thunbergii Makino) is a plant of the family Saxifragaceae, and its leaves or branches are mainly used.
[0040]
Syzygium aromaticum Merrill et Perry (Eugenia caryophyllata Thunberg) is a plant of the Myrtaceae family, and its buds, floral patterns, immature fruits or leaves are mainly used.
[0041]
The safflower Carthamus tinctorius Linne is a plant of the Compositae family, and its flowers or flowers are obtained by removing most of the yellow pigment or whole plants.
[0042]
Sanguisorba officinalis Linne is a plant of the Rosaceae family, and its root or rhizome is mainly used.
[0043]
Iris is a plant of the Iridaceae family, and examples thereof include Irisflorentina L., Iris germania L., Iris pallida L. and the like, and its rhizome is mainly used.
[0044]
Clara Sophora flavescens Aiton is a plant of the leguminous family (Leguminosae), which is mainly used except the roots or most of the pericardium of the roots.
[0045]
In the present invention, the above plant can be used as it is or after being dried and pulverized, but an extract, a steam distillate or a pressed product can also be used, and these can be used as a refined one such as an essential oil. It is also possible to use a commercial product. These plants or extracts thereof, steam distillates or pressed products can be used alone or in combination of two or more.
[0046]
Solvents used for extraction are those usually used for extraction of plant components, such as water, petroleum ether, n-hexane, toluene, dichloroethane, chloroform, ether, ethyl acetate, acetone, methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, ethylene glycol. , Propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and the like, and water, ethanol, propylene glycol, and butylene glycol are particularly preferable. These can be used alone or in combination of two or more. Moreover, normal conditions can be applied as extraction conditions. For example, the above-described plant may be immersed or heated to reflux at 3 to 100 ° C. for several hours to several weeks. When used as an essential oil, a usual method can be adopted, and for example, it can be obtained from the above plant by a steam distillation method, an extraction method, a pressing method or the like. These plant extracts, steam-distilled products or pressed products can be used as active ingredients of the ceramide production promoter of the present invention as they are, but are highly active by suitable separation means such as gel filtration, chromatography, precision distillation, etc. The fraction can also be fractionated and used.
[0047]
The blending amount of the component (B) used in the present invention is 0 in terms of solid content in the wash-out type cosmetic from the viewpoint of the moisturizing effect and the improvement effect on the skin of the elderly, and the effect of suppressing the itching and eczema. 0.0001-10 wt% is preferable, 0.00005-10 wt% is more preferable, 0.0001-5 wt% is still more preferable, and 0.0001-1 wt% is particularly preferable. Two or more types of component (B) may be contained, in which case the total weight is the content.
[0048]
The weight ratio (a) / (B) of the component (a) and the component (B) converted to solid content used in the present invention is the effect of moisturizing and improving the skin of the elderly, the itching of the skin and eczema. In light of the suppression effect, 0.01 / 1 to 1 / 0.00001 is preferable, 0.05 / 1 to 1 / 0.0001 is more preferable, 0.1 / 1 to 1 / 0.0001 is still more preferable, Particularly preferred is 1/1 to 1 / 0.0001.
[0049]
Component (A) used in the present invention includes an oil agent, a viscosity modifier, an antioxidant, an ultraviolet absorber, a bactericidal agent, an antiseptic agent, a pH adjuster, a dye, a fragrance, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium sulfate, and the like. An inorganic compound etc. can be mix | blended suitably.
[0050]
The component (C) used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it has an anti-inflammatory action or an anti-inflammatory action on the skin. From the viewpoint of the effect of suppressing itching and eczema in the elderly, preferably guaiazulene, allantoin, glycyrrhizic acid, glycyrrhizinate, tranexamic acid, ε-amino-n-caproic acid ester, epidihydrocholesterol, epidihydrocholesterol phosphate Examples include esters. Particularly preferred are guaiazulene, allantoin, glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhizinate.
The blending amount of the component (C) used in the present invention is preferably 0.0001 to 10% by weight in the wash-out type cosmetic from the viewpoint of the effect of suppressing itching and eczema on the skin of elderly people, and 0.001 to 5%. % By weight is more preferred, 0.01 to 5% by weight is still more preferred, and 0.1 to 2% by weight is particularly preferred. Two or more types of component (C) may be contained. In that case, the total weight is the content.
[0052]
In the wash-out type cosmetic of the present invention, a surfactant similar to the above-mentioned component (b) can be appropriately blended for the purpose of improving detergency, foaming property, emulsion stability and the like.
The blending amount of the surfactant is 5 to 95% by weight, preferably 10 to 50% by weight, more preferably 10 to 35% by weight of the wash-out type cosmetic of the present invention.
[0053]
An antiseptic or a bactericidal agent can be blended in the wash-out type cosmetic of the present invention. For example, benzoic acid, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, ethanol, isopropanol, isopropylmethylphenol, benzalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, chlorohexidine gluconate and the like can be mentioned. When blending these preservatives or disinfectants, 0.0001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 2% by weight, especially in the wash-out type cosmetic. It is preferable to mix | blend so that it may become 0.005 to 1 weight% preferably.
[0054]
The rinse-type cosmetics of the present invention include oils such as higher alcohols, lanolin, squalane, hydrocarbons, silicones; cationized polymers such as cationized cellulose, cationized guar gum, and Merquat 550 (Merck); methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, Water-soluble polymers such as carboxyvinyl polymer and polysaccharides (xanthan gum, etc.); Viscosity modifiers and dissolution aids such as polyoxyalkylene sorbitan esters, polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters, ethanol, glycerin, sorbitol; ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) Chelating agents such as phosphonates; preservatives such as methylparaben and butylparaben; nutritional components such as vitamins or their precursors; animal and plant extracts such as lecithin and gelatin or their derivatives; polymer fine powders such as nylon and polyethylene ; Antioxidants such as dibutylhydroxytoluene; Other ultraviolet absorbers, pH adjusting agents, dyes, perfumes and the like, may be appropriately blended.
[0055]
Examples of the wash-out type cosmetics of the present invention include those for hair such as shampoos and rinses, those for the face such as facial cleansers and facial cleansing packs, and those for the whole body such as massage agents and body shampoos.
Moreover, the rinse-out type cosmetic of the present invention can be made into any dosage form such as solid, paste, and liquid.
[0056]
Since the rinse-type cosmetic of the present invention contains an amphipathic lipid and a ceramide production promoter, it is excellent in moisturizing effect on skin and improving skin texture, moisturizes dry skin of the elderly, and itchy And can suppress eczema. Therefore, the wash-out type cosmetic of the present invention is most suitable not only for washing the body of the elderly but also for washing the skin around the buttocks where the skin is easily roughened by stimulation with urine and feces, and the skin around the wound that is easily bulky.
[0057]
【Example】
Production Example 1
Amphiphilic lipid (a) (in the general formula (1), R ¹ = C ₁₅ H ₃₁ , R ² = C ₁₆ H ₃₃ , R ³ = H, R ⁴ = H and melting point 74 to 76 ° C.) 20 weight 10 parts by weight, Mydol 10 [effective weight 40% by weight, decylpolyglucoside (condensation degree 1-1.35); Kao] 20 parts by weight and 60 parts by weight of water were heated to 80-85 ° C. and then cooled with stirring. The amphiphilic lipid was crystallized, and further cooled to room temperature with stirring to prepare dispersion (1). The obtained dispersion had a pearl-like appearance, and the amphiphilic lipid particles in the dispersion were needle-like crystals having an average particle diameter of 18.5 μm.
[0058]
Production Example 2
Amphiphilic lipid (a) (in the general formula (1), R ¹ = C ₁₅ H ₃₁ , R ² = C ₁₆ H ₃₃ , R ³ = H, R ⁴ = H and melting point 74 to 76 ° C.) 15 weight Part, amphiphilic lipid (b) (in the general formula (1), R ¹ = C ₉ H ₁₉ , R ² = C ₁₆ H ₃₃ , R ³ = H, R ⁴ = H and melting point 53 to 57 ° C) 5 parts by weight, Emulgen 106 [polyoxyethylene (5) lauryl ether; Kao] 15 parts by weight and 65 parts by weight of water were heated to 80-85 ° C. and then cooled with stirring to crystallize amphiphilic lipids. The mixture was further cooled to room temperature with stirring to prepare dispersion (2). The obtained dispersion had a pearl-like appearance, and the amphiphilic lipid particles in this dispersion were needle-like crystals having an average particle diameter of 8.3 μm.
[0059]
Examples 1-8
According to the formulation shown in Table 1, the rinse-out type cosmetics of the present invention shown in Examples 1 to 8 were produced by a conventional method. Moreover, the rinse-off type cosmetics shown in Comparative Examples 1 to 4 were produced.
[0060]
[Table 1]

[0061]
20 panelists over 65 years old with skin symptoms such as skin roughness, itching and eczema were subjected to body washing tests once a day for 7 consecutive days during bathing. The results are shown in Table 2.
[0062]
[Table 2]

[0063]
From the results shown in Table 2, it was clarified that the wash-out type cosmetic of the present invention has a high effect of improving skin roughness and an effect of suppressing itching and eczema.
[0064]
Example 9
Using the wash-out type cosmetics of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, panelists of 10 regular diapers over 65 years old who have eczema around the buttocks, once a day, around the buttocks when changing diapers The washing test was carried out continuously for 2 weeks. After the use test, skin symptoms were diagnosed before the start of the test and after 2 weeks, respectively, and the degree of improvement was evaluated in five stages: remarkable improvement, improvement, slight improvement, unchanged, and deterioration. The results are shown in Table 3.
[0065]
[Table 3]

[0066]
From the results in Table 3, it was revealed that the wash-out type cosmetic of the present invention has a high skin improvement effect.
[0067]
【The invention's effect】
The rinse-out type cosmetic of the present invention is excellent in the skin moisturizing effect and the improvement effect on the roughness, moisturizes the dry skin of the elderly, and is excellent in the effect of suppressing itching and eczema.

Claims (6)

The following components (A) and (B):
(A) The following components (a) and (b)
(a) 5-40% by weight of an amphiphilic lipid having a hydroxy group and an amide group in the molecule as a dispersoid, and
(b) 2 to 55% by weight of surfactant
And (B) eucalyptus, hops, ginger, gambiloki, wild rose, horse chestnut, lily, pearl barley, catfish, loquat, gardenia, ginseng, bonnet, birch, amacha, clove, safflower, burdock Irrigation around the hips or wounds comprising one or more substances selected from ceramide production promoters comprising as active ingredients a plant selected from Iris and Clara, or an extract thereof, a steam distillate or a pressed product the elderly for rinse-off cosmetics of use. The following components (A) and (B):
(A) The following components (a) and (b)
(a) an amphiphilic lipid having a hydroxy group and an amide group in the molecule as a dispersoid, and
(b) a dispersion containing a surfactant in an aqueous medium, and (B) eucalyptus, hops, ginger, gambeel, green rose, horse chestnut, lily, pearl barley, gama, loquat, gardenia, ginseng, bonito, birch, amateur A hip or wound containing at least one substance selected from a ceramide production promoter comprising as an active ingredient a plant selected from swordfish, clove, safflower, walnut, iris and clara, or an extract thereof, steam distillate or compressed product Elderly washout cosmetics for cleaning the surrounding skin .   The rinse-off type cosmetic according to claim 2, comprising 0.0005 to 10% by weight of component (A) as component (a) and 0.00001 to 10% by weight of component (B) in terms of solid content.   The rinse-out type cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the average particle size of the component (a) is in the range of 0.5 to 150 µm.   The rinse-off type cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising one or more substances selected from anti-inflammatory or anti-inflammatory compounds as component (C).   6. The rinse-off type cosmetic according to claim 5, wherein the component (C) is a substance selected from guaiazulene, allantoin, glycyrrhizic acid, and glycyrrhizinate.