JP3779661B2 - Skin cosmetics - Google Patents
Skin cosmetics Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP3779661B2 JP3779661B2 JP2002269234A JP2002269234A JP3779661B2 JP 3779661 B2 JP3779661 B2 JP 3779661B2 JP 2002269234 A JP2002269234 A JP 2002269234A JP 2002269234 A JP2002269234 A JP 2002269234A JP 3779661 B2 JP3779661 B2 JP 3779661B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- group
- component
- carbon atoms
- oil
- skin
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Fee Related
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims description 59
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- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 23
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- 125000003545 alkoxy group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 9
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- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 3
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- BJDAUCLANVMIOB-UHFFFAOYSA-N (3-decanoyloxy-2,2-dimethylpropyl) decanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(C)(C)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCC BJDAUCLANVMIOB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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Description
【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、保湿性に優れ、使用感、及び保存安定性が良好で、皮膚刺激性がなく安全性に優れた皮膚化粧料に関する。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
皮膚角質層に存在する細胞間脂質の主成分であるセラミドは、皮膚のバリア機能や保湿機能を担う生体物質であることが知られている。しかしながら、セラミドは結晶性が高く、一般的な化粧品基剤に対する溶解性が乏しいために化粧料に配合することが困難である。
【０００３】
化粧料にセラミドやセラミド類似化合物を安定配合する試みとしては、特許文献１に非イオン性界面活性剤及びイオン性界面活性剤を配合することが開示されている。しかしながら多量又は複数の界面活性剤を配合すると、化粧料の保存安定性が悪くなる傾向があり、さらに使用感や皮膚刺激性の面で不充分である。
【０００４】
また、特許文献２には、セラミドやセラミド類似化合物等の角質細胞間脂質成分と特定のジアミド化合物を組み合わせることで、角質層のバリア機能及び水分保持機能をより本質的に改善、補強できることが開示されているが、化粧料の安定性や使用感の点で充分とはいえない。
【特許文献１】
特開平６−３４５６３３号公報
【特許文献２】
特開２００２−１１４６６６号公報
【０００５】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明の目的は、保湿性に優れ、保存安定性が良好で、皮膚刺激性がなく使用感に優れた皮膚化粧料を提供することにある。
【０００６】
【課題を解決するための手段】
発明者らは、保湿性に優れるが結晶性が高いために化粧料に配合することが困難なセラミド類に、両親媒性高分子、及び特定の油剤を配合することで、上記課題を解決できることを見出した。
【０００７】
すなわち、本発明は、次の（Ａ）成分、（Ｂ）成分、及び（Ｃ）成分：
（Ａ）両親媒性高分子、
（Ｂ）セラミド及びセラミド類似化合物から選択される一種又は二種以上の化合物、及び
（Ｃ）２５℃でペースト状の油剤及び／又は２５℃で液体の極性油剤、
を含有し、前記（Ａ）成分以外の界面活性剤を含有しない、皮膚化粧料（但し、１，２−ペンタンジオールを含有する皮膚化粧料を除く。）を提供するものである。
【０００８】
【発明の実施の形態】
本明細書中において、（メタ）アクリルは、アクリル及びメタクリルを表す。
【０００９】
本発明に係る皮膚化粧料は、必須成分として次の（Ａ）成分、（Ｂ）成分、及び（Ｃ）成分：
（Ａ）両親媒性高分子、
（Ｂ）セラミド及びセラミド類似化合物から選択される一種又は二種以上の化合物、及び
（Ｃ）２５℃でペースト状の油剤及び／又は２５℃で液体の極性油剤、を含有する。
【００１０】
本発明に係る皮膚化粧料は、セラミド及びセラミド類似化合物（以下、セラミド類、と示す）（Ｂ）に、両親媒性高分子（Ａ）、及び特定の油剤（Ｃ）を組み合わせて配合するため、セラミド類が性能を発揮するのに充分な量を安定的に溶解させることができ、保湿性に優れた化粧料である。また、本発明に係る皮膚化粧料は、従来セラミド類（Ｂ）を化粧料に配合するために必須とされていた界面活性剤を少量のみ使用するだけで又は全く使用しなくても、セラミド類（Ｂ）を均一且つ安定に配合した化粧料を調製することができ、従って、皮膚刺激性がなく使用感に優れた化粧料である。さらに、本発明に係る皮膚化粧料は、セラミド類（Ｂ）と、両親媒性高分子（Ａ）及び特定の油剤（Ｃ）とを組み合わせて配合するため、両親媒性高分子（Ａ）のみを使用する際のしっとり感に欠けるデメリット、及び特定の油剤（Ｃ）のみを使用する際の油性感のデメリットを互いに打ち消しあい、使用感が良好となり、且つ保存安定性も良好となる。
【００１１】
本発明において、（Ａ）成分である両親媒性高分子は、疎水性官能基と親水性官能基を有する高分子で、水性媒体及び油性媒体の両者に親和性を有するものである。両親媒性高分子（Ａ）としては、水性媒体及び油性媒体の両者に親和性を有し、且つ、増粘性及び乳化性がある高分子であれば、特に制限されることなく用いることができる。疎水性官能基としては、炭素数８〜４０の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基であることが好ましく、親水性官能基としては、カルボキシル基、スルホン基、リン酸基、第３級アミノ基、第４級アンモニウム基等のイオン性官能基であることが好ましい。
【００１２】
両親媒性高分子（Ａ）としては、例えば、アクリル酸アルキル共重合体；（メタ）アクリル酸／（メタ）アクリル酸アルキル共重合体；アクリル酸、メタクリル酸、アクリル酸アルキル、又はメタクリル酸アルキルの少なくとも１種以上のモノマーとポリオキシエチレンステアリルエーテルとメタクリル酸のエステルの共重合体；水溶性セルロース誘導体第４級アンモニウムエーテル；及び多糖誘導体等が挙げられる。尚、本発明の目的を達成できる限り、共重合体には他の単量体を含有していても良い。
【００１３】
具体的には、アクリル酸アルキル共重合体としては、アキュリン３３（ISP社）等が市販されている。（メタ）アクリル酸／（メタ）アクリル酸アルキル共重合体としては、カーボポール１３８２、ペムレンＴＲ−１、ペムレンＴＲ−２（以上、Noveon INC.）等が市販されている。アクリル酸、メタクリル酸、アクリル酸アルキル、又はメタクリル酸アルキルの少なくとも１種以上のモノマーとポリオキシエチレンステアリルエーテルとメタクリル酸のエステルの共重合体としては、粧配規（１９９８年版）に記載のアクリル酸アルキル・メタクリル酸アルキル・ポリオキシエチレン（２０）ステアリルエーテル共重合体等が挙げられ、また、市販品としてはアキュリン２２（ISP社）等が挙げられる。水溶性セルロース誘導体第４級アンモニウムエーテルとしては、ヒドロキシエチルセルロース塩化ヒドロキシプロピルラウリルジメチルアンモニウムエーテルが挙げられ、クオータリーソフトＬＭ−２００（ユニオンカーバイド社）等が市販されている。多糖誘導体としては、特開平９−２３５３０１、特開平１０−２９２００１号公報記載の方法により製造した多糖誘導体が含まれ、例えば、ヒドロキシエチルセルロースヒドロキシプロピルステアリルエーテルヒドロキシプロピルスルホン酸ナトリウム等が好ましい。
【００１４】
中でも、乳化分散性、保存安定性の点から、アクリル酸、メタクリル酸、アクリル酸アルキル、又はメタクリル酸アルキルの少なくとも１種以上のモノマーとポリオキシエチレンステアリルエーテルとメタクリル酸のエステルの共重合体、及び／又は水溶性セルロース誘導体第４級アンモニウムエーテルを用いることが好ましく、アクリル酸アルキル・メタクリル酸アルキル・ポリオキシエチレン（２０）ステアリルエーテル共重合体、及び／又はヒドロキシエチルセルロースヒドロキシプロピルステアリルエーテルヒドロキシプロピルスルホン酸ナトリウムを用いることが更に好ましい。
【００１５】
両親媒性高分子（Ａ）は、単独又は２種以上を組み合わせて用いても良い。
【００１６】
皮膚化粧料中における両親媒性高分子（Ａ）の含有量は、剤型等により異なり特に制限されないが、全組成中に０．０１〜１０重量％であることが好ましく、使用性の良好な粘度となる点から０．１〜５重量％であることが特に好ましい。
【００１７】
本発明において（Ｂ）成分として用いられるセラミド及びセラミド類似化合物から選択される一種又は二種以上の化合物は、優れた保湿性を与える成分である。
【００１８】
セラミドとしては、動植物から抽出、精製されたもの、微生物学的方法又は科学的方法によって合成されたものが含まれる。例えば、次の一般式（２）で表されるアミド誘導体が挙げられる。
【００１９】
【化２】
（式中、Ｒ4は、１つ以上の水酸基が置換していてもよい、炭素数８〜５０の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基、或いはＲ6−ＣＯＯ−Ｒ7−で表される基であり、Ｒ6は炭素数８〜３０の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基、Ｒ7は１つ以上の水酸基が置換していてもよい炭素数８〜４０の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基を示し、
Ｒ5は、１つ以上の水酸基が置換していてもよい、炭素数８〜５０の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基を示す。）
具体的には、Robson K.J. et al., J. Lipid Res.,35,2060（1994）や、Wertz P.W. et al., J. Lipid Res.,24,759（1983）等に記載されているタイプＩ〜VIIのセラミドが含まれる。市販されているセラミドとしては、セラミドIII、セラミドIIIＢ、セラミドIIIＡ、セラミドIV、フィトセラミドI（以上、デグサ社）、セラミドII（セダーマ社）、セラミドＴＩＣ−００１（高砂香料社）等が挙げられる。
【００２１】
一方、セラミド類似化合物としては、例えば特開昭６２−２２８０４８号公報記載の次の式（３）で表わされるアミド誘導体が挙げられる。
【００２２】
【化３】
（式中、Ｒ8は炭素数９〜２５の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基を示し、Ｒ9は炭素数１０〜２６の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基を示す）
式（３）で表されるアミド誘導体は、特開昭６２−２２８０４８号公報、特開昭６３−２２８０４８号公報等に記載された方法で製造することができ、また、ソフケアセラミドＳＬ−Ｅ（花王）等が市販されている。
【００２４】
（Ｂ）成分としては、式（２）及び／又は式（３）で表されるアミド誘導体を用いることが、保湿性の効果の点から好ましく、またこれらのうち２種以上の化合物を用いることが好ましい。
【００２５】
セラミド類（Ｂ）の皮膚化粧料中における含有量は、剤型等により異なり特に制限されないが、全組成中に０．００００１〜１０重量％であることが好ましく、保湿性の効果の点から０．０００１〜５重量％であることが更に好ましい。
【００２６】
（Ｃ）成分である油剤は、２５℃でペースト状の油剤（Ｃ−１）及び２５℃で液体の極性油剤（Ｃ−２）を含み、これらの中から選ばれる少なくとも１種が用いられる。
【００２７】
２５℃でペースト状の油剤（Ｃ−１）とは、２５℃より高い温度に融点を有し、２５℃で完全に固化しない半固体状態の油剤であって、液体油、固体脂とは区別される油剤であり、公定書（粧原基等）で軟こう様、ワセリン様等と示されるものをいう。
【００２８】
２５℃でペースト状の油剤は水溶性でも水に難溶性でも良い。例えば、ラノリン、トリラノリン脂肪酸グリセリル、軟質ラノリン脂肪酸、ワセリン、分岐又はヒドロキシル化した脂肪酸コレステリル、ジペンタエリトリット脂肪酸エステル（ヘキサオキシステアリン酸ジペンタエリトリット等）等が挙げられる。中でも、使用感が良好で、保湿性に優れ、且つ、保存安定性が良好になる点から、ワセリン、分岐又はヒドロキシル化した脂肪酸コレステリル、ジペンタエリトリット脂肪酸エステルを用いることが好ましく、ワセリン、イソステアリン酸コレステリル、ヒドロキシステアリン酸コレステリルを用いることが更に好ましい。
【００２９】
２５℃で液体の極性油剤（Ｃ−２）とは、２５℃で液体で分子内に電気双極子を有する油剤をいう。２５℃で液体の極性油剤（Ｃ−２）としては、化粧品、医薬品等に用いられるものであれば特に限定されず用いることができ、例えば合成又は天然のエステル油を挙げることができる。
【００３０】
合成エステル油としては、具体的には、オクタン酸セチル、ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル、パルミチン酸イソプロピル、パルミチン酸オクチル、ステアリン酸オクチル、オレイン酸デシル、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、アジピン酸ジイソブチル、Ｎ−ラウロイル−Ｌ−グルタミン酸ジ（フィトステリル・２−オクチルドデシル）、モノイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル、ジイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル、トリイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル、テトライソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル、ジ−２−エチルヘキサン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、ミリスチン酸イソドデシル、２−エチルヘキサン酸セチル、トリ−２−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリン、ミリスチン酸イソステアリル、セスキオレイン酸ソルビタン、乳酸オクチルドデシル、モノイソステアリン酸モノミリスチン酸グリセリル、イソノナン酸イソトリデシル等が例示される。
【００３１】
天然のエステル油としては、アボガド油、ツバキ油、マカデミアナッツ油、トウモロコシ油、オリーブ油、ナタネ油、卵黄油、ゴマ油、パーシック油、小麦胚芽油、サザンカ油、ヒマシ油、アマニ油、サフラワー油、綿実油、大豆油、落花生油、茶実油、カヤ油、コメヌカ油、シナギリ油、ホホバ油、胚芽油、等が例示される。
【００３２】
中でも、２５℃で液体の極性油剤（Ｃ−２）としては、（Ｂ）成分との相容性の点から、モノイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル、ジイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル、トリイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル、テトライソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル、ジ−２−エチルヘキサン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、ミリスチン酸イソステアリル、セスキオレイン酸ソルビタン、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、乳酸オクチルドデシル、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、モノイソステアリン酸モノミリスチン酸グリセリル、イソノナン酸イソトリデシル、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、オクタン酸セチル、オレイン酸デシル、テトラ−２−エチルヘキサン酸ペンタエリトリトール、及び、オリーブ油が好ましく用いられ、ジイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、オクタン酸セチル、オレイン酸デシルが更に好ましく用いられ、ジイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリルが特に好ましく用いられる。
【００３３】
皮膚化粧料中における２５℃でペースト状の油剤及び／又は２５℃で液体の極性油剤（Ｃ）の含有量は、剤型等により適宜調整され、特に制限されないが、全組成中に０．１〜２０重量％であることが好ましく、使用感が良好となる点から０．３〜１０重量％であることが更に好ましい。
【００３４】
（Ｃ）成分としては、ペースト状油剤（Ｃ−１）と液状極性油剤（Ｃ−２）を併用することが好ましい。（Ｃ−２）成分としてジイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル、及び（Ｃ−１）成分としてワセリン又はイソステアリルコレステリルエステルを併用することが好ましい。
【００３５】
また、２５℃でペースト状の油剤（Ｃ−１）と２５℃で液体の極性油剤（Ｃ−２）を併用する場合には、Ｃ−１とＣ−２の各々が全組成中に０．１〜１０重量％含有することが更に好ましく、使用感が良好となる点からＣ−１とＣ−２の各々が全組成中に０．３〜１０重量％含有することが特に好ましい。また、Ｃ−１とＣ−２の重量比は、１０：９０〜９０：１０であることが好ましく、２０：８０〜５０：５０であることが更に好ましい。
【００３６】
本発明に係る皮膚化粧料には、更に（Ｄ）次の一般式（１）
【００３７】
【化４】
（式中、Ｒ1は、水酸基及び／又はアルコキシ基が置換していてもよい、炭素数１〜２２の直鎖又は分岐鎖の炭化水素基を示し、Ｒ2は、炭素数１〜１２の直鎖又は分岐鎖の二価の炭化水素基を示し、Ｒ3は、炭素数１〜４２の直鎖又は分岐鎖の二価の炭化水素基を示す。）
で表わされるジアミド化合物を含有することが好ましい。ジアミド化合物（Ｄ）は、皮膚自体のバリア効果及び保湿効果を高めるセラミドに似た特性を示すセラミド機能様脂質化合物であり、（Ｂ）と組み合わせることで角質層のバリア機能及び水分保持機能の維持及び補強効果が高まる点から好ましい。
【００３９】
成分（Ｄ）の一般式（１）で表わされるジアミド化合物のＲ1は、水酸基及び炭素数１〜６のアルコキシ基から選ばれる１〜３個が置換していてもよい炭素数１〜２２の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキル基が好ましく、水酸基とアルコキシ基が同時に置換していてもよい。また、炭素数１〜１８のアルキル基、炭素数１〜１８のモノ又はジ−ヒドロキシアルキル基、炭素数１〜６のアルコキシが置換した炭素数１〜１８のアルキル基及びヒドロキシと炭素数１〜６のアルコキシが置換した炭素数１〜１８のアルキル基が好ましい。さらには、炭素数１〜１８のアルキル基、炭素数２〜１２のモノ−又はジ−ヒドロキシアルキル基、炭素数１〜６のアルコキシが置換した炭素数２〜１２のアルキル基、ヒドロキシと炭素数１〜６のアルコキシが置換した炭素数２〜１２のアルキル基がより好ましい。具体的にはメチル基、エチル基、プロピル基、ブチル基、ヘキシル基、ドデシル基、２−メチルプロピル基、２−エチルヘキシル基、メチル分岐イソステアリル基、２−ヒドロキシエチル基、９−ヒドロキシノニル基、２，３−ジヒドロキシプロピル基、２−メトキシエチル基、２−ヒドロキシ−３−メトキシプロピル基、９−メトキシノニル基等が挙げられる。このうち、２−ヒドロキシエチル基、メチル基、ドデシル基、２−メトキシエチル基がより好ましい。
【００４０】
Ｒ2は、炭素数１〜１２の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキレン基、さらには炭素数２〜６の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキレン基が好ましい。具体的にはエチレン基、トリメチレン基、テトラメチレン基、ペンタメチレン基、ヘキサメチレン基、メチルメチレン基（エチリデン基）、１−メチルエチレン基、２−メチルエチレン基、１−メチルトリメチレン基、２−メチルトリメチレン基、１，１−ジメチルエチレン基、２−エチルトリメチレン基等が挙げられる。このうちエチレン基及びトリメチレン基がより好ましい。
【００４１】
一般式（１）において、Ｒ3は、炭素数２〜３４の直鎖又は分岐鎖の二価炭化水素基が好ましく、さらには炭素数２〜３４の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキレン基又は１〜４個の二重結合を有するアルケニレン基が好ましく、特に炭素数２〜２４の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキレン基又は１〜４個の二重結合を有するアルケニレン基が好ましい。具体例としては、エチレン基、トリメチレン基、テトラメチレン基、ヘキサメチレン基、ヘプタメチレン基、オクタメチレン基、デカメチレン基、ウンデカメチレン基、ドデカメチレン基、トリデカメチレン基、テトラデカメチレン基、ヘキサデカメチレン基、オクタデカメチレン基、トリコサメチレン基、ヘキサコサメチレン基、トリアコンタメチレン基、１−メチルエチレン基、２−エチルトリメチレン基、１−メチルヘプタメチレン基、２−メチルヘプタメチレン基、１−ブチルヘキサメチレン基、２−メチル−５−エチルヘプタメチレン基、２，３，６−トリメチルヘプタメチレン基、６−エチルデカメチレン基、７−メチルテトラデカメチレン基、７−エチルヘキサデカメチレン基、７，１２−ジメチルオクタデカメチレン基、８，１１−ジメチルオクタデカメチレン基、７，１０−ジメチル−７−エチルヘキサデカメチレン基、１−オクタデシルエチレン基、９，１０−ジオクチルオクタデカメチレン基、８，９−ジノニルヘキサデカメチレン基、エテニレン基、１−オクタデセニルエチレン基、７，１１−オクタデカジエニレン基、７−エテニル−９−ヘキサデカメチレン基、７，１２−ジメチル−７，１１−オクタデカジエニレン基、８，１１−ジメチル−７，１１−オクタデカジエニレン基、９，１０−ジオクチル−７，１１−オクタデカジエニレン基、８，９−ジノニル−６，１０−ヘキサデカジエニレン基等が挙げられる。このうち、７，１２−ジメチルオクタデカメチレン基、７，１２−ジメチル−７，１１−オクタデカジエニレン基、オクタデカメチレン基、オクタメチレン基、デカメチレン基、ウンデカメチレン基、トリデカメチレン基がより好ましい。
【００４２】
ジアミド化合物において、好ましい化合物は、一般式（１）中のＲ1、Ｒ2及びＲ3がそれぞれ上記のより好ましい範囲の基を組合せた化合物である。本発明の外用剤組成物に用いるジアミド化合物において、特に好ましいのは、以下の化合物である。
【００４３】
【化５】
【化６】
成分（Ｄ）のジアミド化合物は、例えば、次の公知のアミド合成法によって製造することができる。
【００４６】
【化７】
（式中、Ｒ1、Ｒ2及びＲ3は前記と同様の意味を示す。）
すなわち、対応するジカルボン酸又はその反応性誘導体（エステル、酸ハライド、酸無水物等）とアミンを縮合させることにより、目的のジアミド化合物を効率的に得ることができる。
【００４８】
成分（Ｄ）は、２種以上を併用してもよい。本発明の皮膚化粧料中における成分（Ｄ）の含有量は、剤型等により異なり特に制限されないが、全組成中に成分（Ｂ）＋成分（Ｄ）の合計が０．００００１〜１５重量％であるように含有することが好ましく、０．０００１〜１０重量％であるように含有することが角質層のバリア機能及び水分保持機能の維持及び補強効果が高まる点から更に好ましい。
【００４９】
本発明の化粧料には、必須成分（Ａ）、（Ｂ）、（Ｃ）に更に（Ｄ）を含有することが好ましいが、特に好ましい組み合わせとしては、前記（Ａ）成分がアクリル酸アルキル・メタクリル酸アルキル・ポリオキシエチレン（２０）ステアリルエーテル共重合体及び／又はヒドロキシエチルセルロースヒドロキシプロピルステアリルエーテルヒドロキシプロピルスルホン酸ナトリウム；前記（Ｂ）成分が式（２）及び／又は式（３）
【００５０】
【化８】
（式中、Ｒ4は、１つ以上の水酸基が置換していてもよい、炭素数８〜５０の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基、或いはＲ6−ＣＯＯ−Ｒ7−で表される基であり、Ｒ6は炭素数８〜３０の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基、Ｒ7は１つ以上の水酸基が置換していてもよい炭素数８〜４０の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基を示し、
Ｒ5は、１つ以上の水酸基が置換していてもよい、炭素数８〜５０の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基を示す。）
【００５２】
【化９】
（式中、Ｒ8は炭素数９〜２５の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基を示し、Ｒ9は炭素数１０〜２６の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基を示す）
で表わされるアミド誘導体；前記（Ｃ）成分が（Ｃ−２）成分としてジイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル、及び（Ｃ−１）成分としてワセリン又はイソステアリルコレステリルエステルを併用するものであり；更に前記（Ｄ）成分が次の一般式（１）
【００５４】
【化１０】
（式中、Ｒ1は、水酸基及び／又はアルコキシ基が置換していてもよい、炭素数１〜２２の直鎖又は分岐鎖の炭化水素基を示し、Ｒ2は、炭素数１〜１２の直鎖又は分岐鎖の二価の炭化水素基を示し、Ｒ3は、炭素数１〜４２の直鎖又は分岐鎖の二価の炭化水素基を示す。）
で表わされるジアミド化合物である。
【００５６】
本発明に係る皮膚化粧料には、更に（Ｅ）揮発性及び不揮発性のジメチルポリシロキサンを含有することが、皮膚に滑らかさが付与され、且つ、塗布時のべたつきが抑えられて使用感が良好になる点から好ましい。
【００５７】
ジメチルシロキサンとしては、種々の粘度（粧原基第一法に基づく）のものを単独又は２種以上組み合わせて用いることができるが、粘度が１〜２００００ｍＰａ・Ｓ、更に好ましくは１〜１０００ｍＰａ・Ｓのものを用いることが、良好な使用感の持続性及び皮膚を滑らかにする効果がより優れる点から好ましい。 本発明の皮膚化粧料中における成分（Ｅ）の含有量は、剤型等により異なり特に制限されないが、全組成中に０．１〜１５重量％であることが、良好な使用感及び皮膚を滑らかにする効果の点から好ましい。
【００５８】
本発明に係る皮膚化粧料には、上記成分以外に、必要に応じて通常の化粧料に配合される成分を配合することができる。例えば、粘度調製、起泡、乳化・分散助剤としての界面活性剤；滑らかさ等感触向上のためのポリエーテルシリコーン、メチルフェニルシリコーン等の変性シリコーン油；流動パラフィン、流動イソパラフィン、ロウ類、固体パラフィン等の（Ｃ）成分以外の油剤、防腐剤、酸化防止剤、紫外線遮蔽剤、ポリオール類、アミノ酸及びその塩類等の保湿剤、溶剤、各種エキス、殺菌剤、キレート剤、ｐＨ調整剤、増粘剤、色素、香料等を本発明の目的及び効果を損なわない質的及び量的範囲内で配合することができる。
【００５９】
本発明の皮膚化粧料は、上記各材料を用いて常法に従って製造することができ、形態は可溶化系、乳化系等いずれでも良く、ローション、ジェル、クリーム、ＵＶケア化粧料、エアゾールフォーム等の任意の剤型とすることができる。
【００６０】
【実施例】
（実施例１〜７）
表１に示す割合に従って、精製水にグリセリン、メチルパラベンを加えて８０℃で加熱溶解したものに、（Ａ）成分を加え８０℃で溶解した。これに必要に応じて水酸化カリウムを加え、水相を調整した。別途、８０℃で（Ｂ）成分、（Ｃ）成分、（Ｄ）成分及びスクワランを均一に混合し油相を調整した。８０℃で、この油相を、先に調整した水相に加え予備乳化を行った。ホモミキサーにて乳化粒子を均一に調整した後、脱気、ろ過を行い、皮膚化粧料を得た。この皮膚化粧料を用いてセラミド類の溶解性、保存安定性、使用感、皮膚刺激性を評価した。
【００６１】
（比較例１）
表１に示す割合に従って、（Ａ）成分の代わりに（Ａ’）成分としてカルボキシルビニルポリマーを使用した以外は、実施例１と同様の手順で皮膚化粧料を得た。この皮膚化粧料を用いてセラミド類の溶解性、保存安定性、使用感、皮膚刺激性を評価した。
【００６２】
（比較例２）
表１に示す割合に従って、（Ａ）成分の代わりに界面活性剤を用いた。精製水にグリセリン、メチルパラベンを加えて８０℃で加熱溶解し、水相を調製した。別途、（Ｃ）成分、スクワラン、界面活性剤を加え、８０℃で加熱溶解し、油相を調整した。８０℃で、この油相を、先に調整した水相に加え予備乳化を行った。さらにホモミキサーにて乳化粒子を均一にし、室温まで冷却した後、脱気、ろ過を行い、皮膚化粧料を得た。この皮膚化粧料を用いてセラミド類の溶解性、保存安定性、使用感、皮膚刺激性を評価した。
【００６３】
（比較例３）
表１に示す割合に従って、（Ｃ）成分を使用しない以外は、実施例１と同様の手順で皮膚化粧料を得た。この皮膚化粧料を用いてセラミド類の溶解性、保存安定性、使用感、皮膚刺激性を評価した。
【００６４】
なお、使用した材料の由来を以下に示す。
＊１ アキュリン２２：ＩＳＰ製
＊２ ヒドロキシエチルセルロース（ナトロゾル２５０ＨＨＸ：ハーキュレス製）、ステアリルグリシジルエーテル（ステアリル基の置換度０．００３６ｍｏｌ％：花王製）、及び２，３−エポキシプロパンスルホン酸ナトリウム（スルホン基の置換度０．１１５：花王製）を用いて、特開平９−２３５３０１号公報、特開平１０−２９２００１号公報記載の方法に準じて製造。
＊３ ＰＥＭＵＬＥＮ ＴＲ−１：Ｎｏｖｅｏｎ Ｉｎｃ製
＊４ カーボポール９８０：Ｎｏｖｅｏｎ Ｉｎｃ製
＊５ セラミドIII：デグサ製
＊６ ソフケアセラミドＳＬ−Ｅ：花王製
＊７ コスモール４２：日清製油製
＊８ イソステアリン酸コレステリル：花王製
＊９ ＷＯ００／６１０９７の製造例６
＊１０ ＷＯ００／６１０９７の製造例１１
＊１１ モノステアリン酸ポリオキシエチレン（20.E.O.）ソルビタン：商品名レオドールスーパーＴＷ−Ｓ１２０：花王製
＊１２ ポリオキシエチレンラウリルエーテルリン酸ナトリウム：商品名ＳＰＥ−１０４ＮＢ：花王製
【００６５】
【表１】
（評価）
各実施例及び比較例で得られた皮膚化粧料について、下記の手順により保存安定性、使用感、皮膚刺激性を評価した。評価結果は表１に示す。
【００６７】
（１）保存安定性
各実施例及び比較例で得られた皮膚化粧料を、５℃、室温（２５℃）、５０℃において、１ヶ月保存し、性状の変化（増粘、ゲル化、分離、結晶の析出等）の有無で評価した。
○：５℃、室温（２５℃）、５０℃において、性状変化が認められない。
△：５℃、室温（２５℃）、５０℃において、性状変化が少し認められる。
×：５℃、室温（２５℃）、５０℃において、性状変化が明らかに認められる。
【００６８】
（２）使用感
化粧品専門評価パネラー１０名により、得られた各皮膚化粧料を使用して、べたつきのなさを判断した。
○：８名以上が、べたつかず使用感が良いと評価した。
△：６、７名が、べたつかず使用感が良いと評価した。
×：５名以上が、べたついて使用感が悪いと評価した。
【００６９】
（３）皮膚刺激性
敏感肌専門評価パネラー１０名により、得られた各皮膚化粧料を使用して、刺激感（ヒリヒリ感、発赤、ブツブツ、カサツキ等）の有無を判断した。
○：８名以上が、刺激感がないと評価した。
△：６、７名が、刺激感がないと評価した。
×：５名以上が、刺激感があると評価した。
【００７０】
実施例１〜７はいずれも、保存安定性、使用感、皮膚刺激性において良好な評価であった。（Ａ）成分の代わりに汎用の水溶性高分子を用いた比較例１は、保存安定性の点において劣るものであった。（Ａ）成分の代わりに汎用の界面活性剤を用いた比較例２は、使用感、及び皮膚刺激性の点で実施例に比べて劣るものであった。（Ｃ）成分を使用しなかった比較例３は、使用感の点で実施例に比べて劣るものであった。
【００７１】
（実施例８：乳液）
表２に示す組成に従って、精製水にグリセリン、防腐剤を加えて８０℃で加熱溶解したものと（Ａ）成分を加え８０℃で溶解した。これに水酸化カリウムを加えたものを水相とした。これに８０℃で均一混合した（Ｂ）成分、（Ｃ）成分、（Ｄ）成分、スクワラン、メチルポリシロキサン、香料を加えて乳化した。ホモミキサーにて乳化粒子を均一に調整した後、脱気、ろ過を行い、乳液を得た。
【００７２】
【表２】
（実施例９：クリーム）
表３に示す組成に従って、精製水にグリセリン、防腐剤を加えて８０℃で加熱溶解したものと（Ａ）成分を加え８０℃で溶解した。これに水酸化カリウムを加えたものを水相とした。これに８０℃で均一混合した（Ｂ）成分、（Ｃ）成分、（Ｄ）成分、香料を加えて乳化した。ホモミキサーにて乳化粒子を均一に調整した後、脱気、ろ過を行い、クリームを得た。
【００７４】
【表３】
（実施例１０：エッセンス）
表４に示す組成に従って、精製水にグリセリン、１，３−ブチレングリコール、エタノール、防腐剤を加えて８０℃で加熱溶解したものと（Ａ）成分を加え８０℃でようかいし、水相とした。これに８０℃で均一混合した（Ｂ）成分、（Ｃ）成分、（Ｄ）成分、メチルポリシロキサンを加えて乳化した。ホモミキサーにて乳化粒子を均一に調整した後、室温まで冷却し、脱気、ろ過を行い、エッセンスを得た。
【００７６】
【表４】
実施例８〜１０の皮膚化粧料は、いずれもセラミド類が良好に溶解し、保湿性に優れ、使用感、及び保存安定性が良好で、皮膚刺激性がなく安全性に優れた皮膚化粧料であった。
【００７８】
【発明の効果】
本発明に係る皮膚化粧料は、保湿性に優れるが結晶性が高いために化粧料に配合することが困難なセラミド類（Ｂ）に、両親媒性高分子（Ａ）、及び特定の油剤（Ｃ）を組み合わせて配合するため、従来セラミド類（Ｂ）を化粧料に配合するために必須とされてきた界面活性剤を使用しなくても、セラミド類（Ｂ）を配合した化粧料を調製することができ、界面活性剤を含有しないために皮膚刺激性がなく安全性に優れた化粧料である。また、本発明に係る皮膚化粧料は、セラミド類（Ｂ）を配合するため保湿性に優れ、両親媒性高分子（Ａ）、及び特定の油剤（Ｃ）を組み合わせて配合するため、使用感及び保存安定性が良好である。
【００７９】
本発明に係る皮膚化粧料に、更に（Ｄ）成分を含有する場合には、角質層のバリア機能及び水分保持機能の維持及び補強効果が高まる。
【００８０】
また、本発明に係る皮膚化粧料に、更に（Ｅ）成分を含有する場合には、皮膚に滑らかさが付与され、且つ、塗布時のべたつきが抑えられて使用感が更に良好になる。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a skin cosmetic that is excellent in moisture retention, has a good feeling in use and storage stability, has no skin irritation, and is excellent in safety.
[0002]
[Prior art]
It is known that ceramide, which is a main component of intercellular lipids present in the skin stratum corneum, is a biological substance that plays a role of skin barrier and moisture. However, since ceramide has high crystallinity and poor solubility in general cosmetic bases, it is difficult to blend in cosmetics.
[0003]
As an attempt to stably blend ceramide or a ceramide-like compound into cosmetics, Patent Document 1 discloses blending a nonionic surfactant and an ionic surfactant. However, when a large amount or a plurality of surfactants are blended, the storage stability of the cosmetic tends to be deteriorated, and the use feeling and skin irritation are insufficient.
[0004]
Patent Document 2 discloses that the barrier function and water retention function of the stratum corneum can be improved and strengthened more essentially by combining a specific diamide compound with a stratum corneum lipid component such as ceramide or a ceramide-like compound. However, it is not sufficient in terms of the stability and feeling of use of cosmetics.
[Patent Document 1]
JP-A-6-345633
[Patent Document 2]
JP 2002-114666 A
[0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
An object of the present invention is to provide a skin cosmetic having excellent moisture retention, good storage stability, no skin irritation, and excellent usability.
[0006]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The inventors can solve the above problems by blending an amphiphilic polymer and a specific oil into ceramides that are excellent in moisture retention but are difficult to be blended in cosmetics due to high crystallinity. I found.
[0007]
That is, the present invention includes the following components (A), (B), and (C):
(A) amphiphilic polymer,
(B) one or more compounds selected from ceramide and ceramide-like compounds, and
(C) a paste oil at 25 ° C. and / or a polar oil at 25 ° C.
Contains And does not contain a surfactant other than the component (A), Skin cosmetics (However, skin cosmetics containing 1,2-pentanediol are excluded.) Is to provide.
[0008]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
In this specification, (meth) acryl represents acrylic and methacrylic.
[0009]
The skin cosmetic according to the present invention includes the following components (A), (B), and (C) as essential components:
(A) amphiphilic polymer,
(B) one or more compounds selected from ceramide and ceramide-like compounds, and
(C) Contains a paste-form oil agent at 25 ° C. and / or a polar oil agent liquid at 25 ° C.
[0010]
The skin cosmetic according to the present invention is blended with ceramide and a ceramide-like compound (hereinafter referred to as ceramide) (B) in combination with an amphiphilic polymer (A) and a specific oil (C). The ceramides can be stably dissolved in an amount sufficient to exert their performance, and are cosmetics with excellent moisture retention. In addition, the skin cosmetic according to the present invention can be obtained by using only a small amount of a surfactant which has been conventionally required for blending ceramides (B) into cosmetics, or not at all. A cosmetic material in which (B) is blended uniformly and stably can be prepared. Therefore, it is a cosmetic material that has no skin irritation and has an excellent feeling of use. Furthermore, since the skin cosmetic according to the present invention is formulated by combining the ceramides (B), the amphiphilic polymer (A) and the specific oil (C), only the amphiphilic polymer (A) is included. The disadvantages of lacking moistness when using the oil and the disadvantages of oiliness when using only the specific oil (C) cancel each other, and the feeling of use becomes good and the storage stability is also good.
[0011]
In the present invention, the amphiphilic polymer as the component (A) is a polymer having a hydrophobic functional group and a hydrophilic functional group, and has an affinity for both an aqueous medium and an oily medium. As the amphiphilic polymer (A), any polymer can be used without particular limitation as long as it has affinity for both an aqueous medium and an oily medium and has a thickening and emulsifying property. . The hydrophobic functional group is preferably a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 8 to 40 carbon atoms, and the hydrophilic functional group includes a carboxyl group, a sulfone group, a phosphate group, It is preferably an ionic functional group such as a tertiary amino group or a quaternary ammonium group.
[0012]
Examples of the amphiphilic polymer (A) include alkyl acrylate copolymer; (meth) acrylic acid / (meth) alkyl acrylate copolymer; acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, alkyl acrylate, or alkyl methacrylate. A copolymer of at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene stearyl ether and methacrylic acid ester; water-soluble cellulose derivative quaternary ammonium ether; and polysaccharide derivatives. As long as the object of the present invention can be achieved, the copolymer may contain other monomers.
[0013]
Specifically, as the alkyl acrylate copolymer, Aculin 33 (ISP) and the like are commercially available. As the (meth) acrylic acid / (meth) acrylic acid alkyl copolymer, Carbopol 1382, Pemlene TR-1, Pemlene TR-2 (above, Noveon INC.) And the like are commercially available. As a copolymer of at least one monomer of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, alkyl acrylate, or alkyl methacrylate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether, and ester of methacrylic acid, an acrylic described in Cosmetic Coordination (1998 edition) Examples include alkyl acid, alkyl methacrylate, polyoxyethylene (20) stearyl ether copolymer, and a commercially available product such as Aculin 22 (ISP). Examples of the water-soluble cellulose derivative quaternary ammonium ether include hydroxyethyl cellulose hydroxypropyl lauryl dimethyl ammonium ether, and quarter soft LM-200 (Union Carbide) is commercially available. Examples of the polysaccharide derivative include polysaccharide derivatives produced by the methods described in JP-A-9-235301 and JP-A-10-292001, and for example, sodium hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyl stearyl ether hydroxypropylsulfonate is preferable.
[0014]
Among them, from the viewpoint of emulsification dispersibility and storage stability, a copolymer of at least one monomer of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, alkyl acrylate, or alkyl methacrylate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether, and an ester of methacrylic acid, And / or water-soluble cellulose derivative quaternary ammonium ether is preferably used, and alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, polyoxyethylene (20) stearyl ether copolymer, and / or hydroxyethyl cellulose hydroxypropyl stearyl ether hydroxypropyl sulfone More preferably, sodium acid is used.
[0015]
You may use an amphiphilic polymer (A) individually or in combination of 2 or more types.
[0016]
The content of the amphiphilic polymer (A) in the skin cosmetic varies depending on the dosage form and is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight in the total composition and has good usability. It is particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight from the point of viscosity.
[0017]
In the present invention, one or two or more compounds selected from ceramide and ceramide-like compounds used as the component (B) are components that provide excellent moisture retention.
[0018]
Ceramides include those extracted and purified from animals and plants, and those synthesized by microbiological methods or scientific methods. Examples thereof include amide derivatives represented by the following general formula (2).
[0019]
[Chemical 2]
(Wherein R Four Is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 8 to 50 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, or R 6 -COO-R 7 A group represented by-, R 6 Is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 7 Represents a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 8 to 40 carbon atoms which may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups,
R Five Represents a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 8 to 50 carbon atoms, which may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. )
Specifically, the types I to I described in Robson KJ et al., J. Lipid Res., 35, 2060 (1994), Wertz PW et al., J. Lipid Res., 24, 759 (1983), etc. Ceramide of VII is included. Examples of commercially available ceramides include ceramide III, ceramide IIIB, ceramide IIIA, ceramide IV, phytoceramide I (above, Degussa), ceramide II (Cederama), ceramide TIC-001 (Takasago Fragrance). .
[0021]
On the other hand, examples of the ceramide-like compound include amide derivatives represented by the following formula (3) described in JP-A-62-228048.
[0022]
[Chemical 3]
(Wherein R 8 Represents a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 9 to 25 carbon atoms, and R 9 Represents a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 10 to 26 carbon atoms)
The amide derivative represented by the formula (3) can be produced by the methods described in JP-A-62-228048, JP-A-63-228048, etc., and soft care ceramide SL-E. (Kao) etc. are commercially available.
[0024]
As the component (B), it is preferable to use an amide derivative represented by the formula (2) and / or the formula (3) from the viewpoint of a moisturizing effect, and two or more of these compounds are used. Is preferred.
[0025]
The content of the ceramide (B) in the skin cosmetic differs depending on the dosage form and is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.00001 to 10% by weight in the total composition, and is 0 from the viewpoint of the moisturizing effect. More preferably, it is 0.0001 to 5% by weight.
[0026]
The oil agent which is component (C) includes a paste oil agent (C-1) at 25 ° C. and a polar oil agent (C-2) which is liquid at 25 ° C., and at least one selected from these is used.
[0027]
A paste-like oil agent (C-1) at 25 ° C. is a semi-solid oil agent that has a melting point at a temperature higher than 25 ° C. and does not completely solidify at 25 ° C., and is distinguished from liquid oil and solid fat. Oils that are indicated as ointment-like, petrolatum-like, etc. according to official documents (such as makeup primaries).
[0028]
The paste-like oil agent at 25 ° C. may be water-soluble or sparingly soluble in water. Examples include lanolin, trilanoline fatty acid glyceryl, soft lanolin fatty acid, petrolatum, branched or hydroxylated fatty acid cholesteryl, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester (such as hexapentaoxystearate dipentaerythritol). Among them, it is preferable to use petrolatum, branched or hydroxylated fatty acid cholesteryl, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester from the viewpoint of good usability, excellent moisture retention, and good storage stability. More preferably, cholesteryl acid and cholesteryl hydroxystearate are used.
[0029]
The polar oil agent (C-2) that is liquid at 25 ° C. refers to an oil agent that is liquid at 25 ° C. and has an electric dipole in the molecule. The polar oil agent (C-2) that is liquid at 25 ° C. can be used without particular limitation as long as it is used in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and the like, and examples thereof include synthetic or natural ester oils.
[0030]
Specific synthetic ester oils include cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, octyl stearate, decyl oleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisostearyl malate, adipic acid Diisobutyl, N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (phytosteryl, 2-octyldodecyl), polyglyceryl monoisostearate, polyglyceryl diisostearate, polyglyceryl triisostearate, polyglyceryl tetraisostearate, dipentylglycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, myristic Isopropyl acid, isododecyl myristate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, isostear myristate Le, sorbitan sesquioleate, octyldodecyl lactate, monoisostearate monomyristate, isotridecyl isononanoate, and the like.
[0031]
Natural ester oils include avocado oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, persic oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil , Soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, snail oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, and the like.
[0032]
Among them, as a polar oil agent (C-2) which is liquid at 25 ° C., from the viewpoint of compatibility with the component (B), polyglyceryl monoisostearate, polyglyceryl diisostearate, polyglyceryl triisostearate, polyglyceryl tetraisostearate, diglyceryl diisostearate 2-ethylhexanoic acid neopentyl glycol, isostearyl myristate, sorbitan sesquioleate, diisostearyl malate, octyldodecyl lactate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, monoglycostyl monomystearate, isotridecyl isononanoate, myristic acid Isopropyl, cetyl octoate, decyl oleate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, and olive oil are preferably used, and polyglyceryl diisostearate , Isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate is used more preferably, polyglyceryl diisostearate is particularly preferably used.
[0033]
The content of the oily agent in the form of a paste at 25 ° C. and / or the polar oil agent (C) that is liquid at 25 ° C. in the skin cosmetics is appropriately adjusted depending on the dosage form, etc. It is preferably ˜20% by weight, and more preferably 0.3 to 10% by weight from the viewpoint that the feeling in use is good.
[0034]
(C) As a component, it is preferable to use together a paste-form oil agent (C-1) and a liquid polar oil agent (C-2). It is preferable to use polyglyceryl diisostearate as the component (C-2) and petrolatum or isostearyl cholesteryl ester as the component (C-1).
[0035]
Moreover, when using together the paste-form oil agent (C-1) at 25 degreeC, and the polar oil agent (C-2) liquid at 25 degreeC, each of C-1 and C-2 is 0. It is more preferable to contain 1 to 10 weight%, and it is especially preferable that each of C-1 and C-2 contains 0.3 to 10 weight% in the whole composition from the point that a usability is good. The weight ratio of C-1 to C-2 is preferably 10:90 to 90:10, and more preferably 20:80 to 50:50.
[0036]
The skin cosmetic according to the present invention further includes (D) the following general formula (1).
[0037]
[Formula 4]
(Wherein R 1 Represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group and / or an alkoxy group, and R 2 Represents a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, R Three Represents a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 42 carbon atoms. )
It is preferable to contain the diamide compound represented by these. The diamide compound (D) is a ceramide function-like lipid compound that exhibits properties similar to ceramide that enhance the barrier effect and moisturizing effect of the skin itself, and maintains the barrier function and moisture retention function of the stratum corneum by combining with (B). And the point from which the reinforcement effect increases is preferable.
[0039]
R of the diamide compound represented by the general formula (1) of component (D) 1 Is preferably a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms which may be substituted by 1 to 3 groups selected from a hydroxyl group and an alkoxy group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and the hydroxyl group and the alkoxy group are simultaneously substituted. You may do it. Also, an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, a mono- or di-hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms substituted by alkoxy having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and hydroxy and 1 to 1 carbon atoms. A C1-C18 alkyl group substituted by 6 alkoxy is preferable. Furthermore, an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, a mono- or di-hydroxyalkyl group having 2 to 12 carbon atoms, an alkyl group having 2 to 12 carbon atoms substituted by alkoxy having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, hydroxy and carbon number A C2-C12 alkyl group substituted with 1-6 alkoxy is more preferred. Specifically, methyl group, ethyl group, propyl group, butyl group, hexyl group, dodecyl group, 2-methylpropyl group, 2-ethylhexyl group, methyl branched isostearyl group, 2-hydroxyethyl group, 9-hydroxynonyl group 2,3-dihydroxypropyl group, 2-methoxyethyl group, 2-hydroxy-3-methoxypropyl group, 9-methoxynonyl group and the like. Of these, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a methyl group, a dodecyl group, and a 2-methoxyethyl group are more preferable.
[0040]
R 2 Is preferably a linear or branched alkylene group having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferably a linear or branched alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms. Specifically, ethylene group, trimethylene group, tetramethylene group, pentamethylene group, hexamethylene group, methylmethylene group (ethylidene group), 1-methylethylene group, 2-methylethylene group, 1-methyltrimethylene group, 2 -Methyltrimethylene group, 1,1-dimethylethylene group, 2-ethyltrimethylene group, etc. are mentioned. Among these, an ethylene group and a trimethylene group are more preferable.
[0041]
In the general formula (1), R Three Is preferably a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon group having 2 to 34 carbon atoms, and further an alkenylene having a linear or branched alkylene group having 1 to 34 carbon atoms or 1 to 4 double bonds. Group is preferable, and a C2-C24 linear or branched alkylene group or an alkenylene group having 1 to 4 double bonds is particularly preferable. Specific examples include ethylene group, trimethylene group, tetramethylene group, hexamethylene group, heptamethylene group, octamethylene group, decamethylene group, undecamethylene group, dodecamethylene group, tridecamethylene group, tetradecamethylene group, hexa Decamethylene group, octadecamethylene group, tricosamethylene group, hexacosamethylene group, triacontamethylene group, 1-methylethylene group, 2-ethyltrimethylene group, 1-methylheptamethylene group, 2-methylheptamethylene group 1-butylhexamethylene group, 2-methyl-5-ethylheptamethylene group, 2,3,6-trimethylheptamethylene group, 6-ethyldecamethylene group, 7-methyltetradecamethylene group, 7-ethylhexadeca Methylene group, 7,12-dimethyloctadecamethylene group, 8 11-dimethyloctadecamethylene group, 7,10-dimethyl-7-ethylhexadecamethylene group, 1-octadecylethylene group, 9,10-dioctyloctadecamethylene group, 8,9-dinonylhexadecamethylene group, ethenylene Group, 1-octadecenylethylene group, 7,11-octadecadienylene group, 7-ethenyl-9-hexadecamethylene group, 7,12-dimethyl-7,11-octadecadienylene group, 8, Examples include 11-dimethyl-7,11-octadecadienylene group, 9,10-dioctyl-7,11-octadecadienylene group, 8,9-dinonyl-6,10-hexadecadienylene group, and the like. Among these, 7,12-dimethyloctadecamethylene group, 7,12-dimethyl-7,11-octadecadienylene group, octadecamethylene group, octamethylene group, decamethylene group, undecamethylene group, tridecamethylene group Is more preferable.
[0042]
Among the diamide compounds, preferred compounds are R in the general formula (1). 1 , R 2 And R Three Are compounds obtained by combining groups in the above-described more preferable ranges. Of the diamide compounds used in the external preparation composition of the present invention, the following compounds are particularly preferred.
[0043]
[Chemical formula 5]
[Chemical 6]
The diamide compound of component (D) can be produced, for example, by the following known amide synthesis method.
[0046]
[Chemical 7]
(Wherein R 1 , R 2 And R Three Indicates the same meaning as described above. )
That is, the target diamide compound can be efficiently obtained by condensing a corresponding dicarboxylic acid or a reactive derivative thereof (ester, acid halide, acid anhydride, etc.) and an amine.
[0048]
Two or more types of component (D) may be used in combination. The content of the component (D) in the skin cosmetic of the present invention varies depending on the dosage form and the like and is not particularly limited, but the total of the component (B) + component (D) is 0.00001 to 15% by weight in the total composition. It is preferable to contain it so that it may be 0.0001-10 weight%, and it is still more preferable from the point which the maintenance function of a stratum corneum layer and a water | moisture retention function, and the reinforcement effect increase.
[0049]
The cosmetic of the present invention preferably contains (D) in addition to the essential components (A), (B), and (C). As a particularly preferred combination, the component (A) is an alkyl acrylate. Alkyl methacrylate / polyoxyethylene (20) stearyl ether copolymer and / or hydroxyethyl cellulose hydroxypropyl stearyl ether hydroxypropylsulfonate sodium; the component (B) is represented by formula (2) and / or formula (3)
[0050]
[Chemical 8]
(Wherein R Four Is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 8 to 50 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, or R 6 -COO-R 7 A group represented by-, R 6 Is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 7 Represents a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 8 to 40 carbon atoms which may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups,
R Five Represents a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 8 to 50 carbon atoms, which may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. )
[0052]
[Chemical 9]
(Wherein R 8 Represents a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 9 to 25 carbon atoms, and R 9 Represents a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 10 to 26 carbon atoms)
The component (C) is a combination of polyglyceryl diisostearate as the component (C-2) and petrolatum or isostearyl cholesteryl ester as the component (C-1); and the component (D). Is the following general formula (1)
[0054]
[Chemical Formula 10]
(Wherein R 1 Represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group and / or an alkoxy group, and R 2 Represents a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, R Three Represents a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 42 carbon atoms. )
It is a diamide compound represented by these.
[0056]
The skin cosmetic according to the present invention further contains (E) volatile and non-volatile dimethylpolysiloxane, which imparts smoothness to the skin and suppresses stickiness at the time of application and provides a feeling of use. It is preferable from the point of becoming good.
[0057]
As dimethylsiloxane, those having various viscosities (based on the first method of makeup base) can be used alone or in combination of two or more, but the viscosity is 1 to 20000 mPa · S, more preferably 1 to 1000 mPa · S. It is preferable to use one from the viewpoint that the durability of a good feeling of use and the effect of smoothing the skin are more excellent. The content of the component (E) in the skin cosmetic of the present invention varies depending on the dosage form and the like and is not particularly limited. This is preferable from the viewpoint of smoothing effect.
[0058]
In addition to the above components, the skin cosmetic according to the present invention may contain components that are blended in ordinary cosmetics as necessary. For example, surfactants for viscosity adjustment, foaming, emulsification / dispersion aids; modified silicone oils such as polyether silicone and methylphenyl silicone for improving touch such as smoothness; liquid paraffin, liquid isoparaffin, waxes, solids Oils other than the component (C) such as paraffin, preservatives, antioxidants, UV screening agents, humectants such as polyols, amino acids and salts thereof, solvents, various extracts, bactericides, chelating agents, pH adjusters, and increase A sticking agent, a coloring matter, a fragrance | flavor, etc. can be mix | blended within the qualitative and quantitative range which does not impair the objective and effect of this invention.
[0059]
The skin cosmetic of the present invention can be produced according to a conventional method using each of the above materials, and the form may be any of a solubilizing system, an emulsifying system, etc., such as lotion, gel, cream, UV care cosmetic, aerosol foam, etc. Any dosage form can be used.
[0060]
【Example】
(Examples 1-7)
According to the ratio shown in Table 1, glycerin and methylparaben were added to purified water and heated and dissolved at 80 ° C., and then component (A) was added and dissolved at 80 ° C. If necessary, potassium hydroxide was added to adjust the aqueous phase. Separately, component (B), component (C), component (D) and squalane were uniformly mixed at 80 ° C. to prepare an oil phase. At 80 ° C., this oil phase was added to the previously prepared aqueous phase for preliminary emulsification. After the emulsified particles were uniformly adjusted with a homomixer, deaeration and filtration were performed to obtain a skin cosmetic. Using this skin cosmetic, the solubility, storage stability, feeling of use, and skin irritation of ceramides were evaluated.
[0061]
(Comparative Example 1)
According to the ratio shown in Table 1, a skin cosmetic was obtained in the same procedure as in Example 1 except that a carboxyl vinyl polymer was used as the component (A ′) instead of the component (A). Using this skin cosmetic, the solubility, storage stability, feeling of use, and skin irritation of ceramides were evaluated.
[0062]
(Comparative Example 2)
According to the ratio shown in Table 1, a surfactant was used instead of the component (A). Glycerin and methylparaben were added to purified water and dissolved by heating at 80 ° C. to prepare an aqueous phase. Separately, component (C), squalane and surfactant were added and dissolved by heating at 80 ° C. to adjust the oil phase. At 80 ° C., this oil phase was added to the previously prepared aqueous phase for preliminary emulsification. Furthermore, the emulsified particles were made uniform with a homomixer, cooled to room temperature, then deaerated and filtered to obtain a skin cosmetic. Using this skin cosmetic, the solubility, storage stability, feeling of use, and skin irritation of ceramides were evaluated.
[0063]
(Comparative Example 3)
According to the ratio shown in Table 1, skin cosmetics were obtained in the same procedure as in Example 1 except that the component (C) was not used. Using this skin cosmetic, the solubility, storage stability, feeling of use, and skin irritation of ceramides were evaluated.
[0064]
In addition, the origin of the used material is shown below.
* 1 Aculin 22: made by ISP
* 2 Hydroxyethyl cellulose (Natrosol 250HHX: manufactured by Hercules), stearyl glycidyl ether (degree of substitution of stearyl group 0.0036 mol%: manufactured by Kao), and sodium 2,3-epoxypropanesulfonate (degree of substitution of sulfone group 0.115: Manufactured by Kao Corporation according to the methods described in JP-A-9-235301 and JP-A-10-292001.
* 3 PEMULEN TR-1: made by Noveon Inc
* 4 Carbopol 980: manufactured by Noveon Inc.
* 5 Ceramide III: Made by Degussa
* 6 Sofcare Ceramide SL-E: Kao
* 7 Cosmall 42: Made by Nisshin Oil
* 8 Cholesteryl isostearate: Kao
* 9 Production example 6 of WO00 / 61097
* 10 Production Example 11 of WO00 / 61097
* 11 Polystearic acid polyoxyethylene (20.EO) sorbitan: Trade name Leodor Super TW-S120: Kao
* 12 Sodium polyoxyethylene lauryl ether phosphate: Trade name SPE-104NB: Kao
[0065]
[Table 1]
(Evaluation)
The skin cosmetics obtained in each of the examples and comparative examples were evaluated for storage stability, feeling of use, and skin irritation by the following procedures. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.
[0067]
(1) Storage stability
The skin cosmetics obtained in each Example and Comparative Example were stored at 5 ° C., room temperature (25 ° C.), 50 ° C. for 1 month and changed in properties (thickening, gelation, separation, crystal precipitation, etc.) Evaluation was made with or without.
◯: No change in properties at 5 ° C., room temperature (25 ° C.), and 50 ° C.
(Triangle | delta): A little property change is recognized in 5 degreeC, room temperature (25 degreeC), and 50 degreeC.
X: Change in properties is clearly observed at 5 ° C., room temperature (25 ° C.), and 50 ° C.
[0068]
(2) Usability
Ten skincare professional evaluation panelists judged the non-stickiness by using each of the obtained skin cosmetics.
○: Eight or more people evaluated that it was not sticky and had a good feeling of use.
(Triangle | delta): Six or seven people evaluated that it was not sticky and the usability was good.
X: Five or more persons evaluated that it was sticky and the usability was bad.
[0069]
(3) Skin irritation
Ten sensitive panel evaluation panelists used each of the obtained skin cosmetics to determine the presence or absence of irritation (burning, redness, rustling, rustling, etc.).
○: Eight or more people evaluated that there was no irritation.
(Triangle | delta): Six or seven people evaluated that there was no irritation.
X: Five or more persons evaluated that there was a irritation.
[0070]
Examples 1-7 were all good evaluations in terms of storage stability, usability, and skin irritation. Comparative Example 1 using a general-purpose water-soluble polymer instead of the component (A) was inferior in terms of storage stability. The comparative example 2 which used the general purpose surfactant instead of (A) component was inferior to the Example in the point of use feeling and skin irritation. The comparative example 3 which did not use (C) component was inferior to the Example in the point of the usability | use_condition.
[0071]
(Example 8: Latex)
According to the composition shown in Table 2, glycerin and a preservative were added to purified water and heated and dissolved at 80 ° C., and component (A) was added and dissolved at 80 ° C. What added potassium hydroxide to this was made into the water phase. The components (B), (C), (D), squalane, methylpolysiloxane, and fragrance that were uniformly mixed at 80 ° C. were added and emulsified. After the emulsified particles were uniformly adjusted with a homomixer, deaeration and filtration were performed to obtain an emulsion.
[0072]
[Table 2]
(Example 9: Cream)
According to the composition shown in Table 3, glycerin and a preservative were added to purified water and heated and dissolved at 80 ° C., and component (A) was added and dissolved at 80 ° C. What added potassium hydroxide to this was made into the water phase. (B) component, (C) component, (D) component, and the fragrance | flavor uniformly mixed at 80 degreeC were added and emulsified to this. After the emulsion particles were uniformly adjusted with a homomixer, deaeration and filtration were performed to obtain a cream.
[0074]
[Table 3]
(Example 10: Essence)
According to the composition shown in Table 4, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, ethanol and preservatives were added to purified water and heated and dissolved at 80 ° C., and component (A) was added, and the mixture was stirred at 80 ° C. to obtain an aqueous phase. . The components (B), (C), (D) and methylpolysiloxane which were uniformly mixed at 80 ° C. were added and emulsified. After uniformly adjusting the emulsified particles with a homomixer, the emulsion was cooled to room temperature, deaerated and filtered to obtain an essence.
[0076]
[Table 4]
The skin cosmetics of Examples 8 to 10 all have ceramides dissolved well, excellent moisturizing properties, good usability and storage stability, no skin irritation and excellent safety. Met.
[0078]
【The invention's effect】
The skin cosmetic according to the present invention is excellent in moisture retention but has high crystallinity, so it is difficult to formulate the cosmetic with ceramides (B), an amphiphilic polymer (A), and a specific oil agent ( Since the combination of C) is combined, a cosmetic containing the ceramide (B) is prepared without using a surfactant that has been essential for mixing the ceramide (B) into the cosmetic. Since it does not contain a surfactant, it is a cosmetic with no skin irritation and excellent safety. In addition, the skin cosmetic according to the present invention is excellent in moisture retention because it contains the ceramides (B), and is combined with the amphiphilic polymer (A) and the specific oil (C). And storage stability is good.
[0079]
When the skin cosmetic according to the present invention further contains the component (D), the effect of maintaining and reinforcing the barrier function and moisture retention function of the stratum corneum is enhanced.
[0080]
Further, when the skin cosmetic according to the present invention further contains the component (E), the skin is given smoothness, and stickiness at the time of application is suppressed, so that the feeling of use is further improved.
Claims (4)
（Ａ）両親媒性高分子、
（Ｂ）セラミド及びセラミド類似化合物から選択される一種又は二種以上の化合物、及び
（Ｃ）２５℃でペースト状の油剤及び／又は２５℃で液体の極性油剤、
を含有し、前記（Ａ）成分以外の界面活性剤を含有しない、皮膚化粧料（但し、１，２−ペンタンジオールを含有する皮膚化粧料を除く。）。Next (A) component, (B) component, and (C) component:
(A) amphiphilic polymer,
(B) one or two or more compounds selected from ceramide and ceramide-like compounds, and (C) a paste oil at 25 ° C. and / or a polar oil at 25 ° C.
Skin cosmetics containing no surfactant other than the component (A) ( excluding skin cosmetics containing 1,2-pentanediol) .
で表わされるジアミド化合物を含有する、請求項１に記載の皮膚化粧料。Further, (D) the following general formula (1)
The skin cosmetic of Claim 1 containing the diamide compound represented by these.
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| JP2002269234A JP3779661B2 (en) | 2002-09-13 | 2002-09-13 | Skin cosmetics |
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| JP2002269234A JP3779661B2 (en) | 2002-09-13 | 2002-09-13 | Skin cosmetics |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE102004030044A1 (en) | 2004-06-22 | 2006-01-12 | Birken Gmbh | Triterpene-containing oleogel, triterpene-containing oleogel and process for the preparation of a triterpenhaltigen oleogel |
| CN101048133B (en) * | 2004-10-26 | 2010-10-13 | 株式会社资生堂 | Skin preparation for external use |
| JP4808393B2 (en) * | 2004-10-28 | 2011-11-02 | 花王株式会社 | Oil-in-water emulsion composition |
| JP5073210B2 (en) * | 2006-01-20 | 2012-11-14 | 花王株式会社 | Oil-in-water emulsion composition |
| JP5306725B2 (en) * | 2008-06-30 | 2013-10-02 | 持田製薬株式会社 | Topical skin preparation |
| JP2011231049A (en) * | 2010-04-28 | 2011-11-17 | Kao Corp | Production method of oil-in-water type emulsion |
| CN102727392A (en) * | 2011-03-31 | 2012-10-17 | 花王株式会社 | Emulsified composition |
| CA3081624A1 (en) | 2018-01-04 | 2019-07-11 | Amryt Research Limited | Betulin-containing birch bark extracts and their formulation |
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| DE60043187D1 (en) * | 1999-04-08 | 2009-12-03 | Kao Corp | COMPOSITIONS FOR EXTERNAL USAGE |
| JP2001122734A (en) * | 1999-10-22 | 2001-05-08 | Kao Corp | Emulsified cosmetic |
| JP4703809B2 (en) * | 2000-01-25 | 2011-06-15 | 花王株式会社 | Topical skin preparation |
| JP2001233754A (en) * | 2000-02-25 | 2001-08-28 | Kanebo Ltd | Emulsion type skin care preparation |
| JP4473437B2 (en) * | 2000-10-05 | 2010-06-02 | 花王株式会社 | Skin cosmetics |
| JP2003176210A (en) * | 2001-12-12 | 2003-06-24 | Nonogawa Shoji Kk | Emulsion type cosmetic |
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