JP3634977B2 - Oily cosmetics - Google Patents
Oily cosmetics Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP3634977B2 JP3634977B2 JP11088199A JP11088199A JP3634977B2 JP 3634977 B2 JP3634977 B2 JP 3634977B2 JP 11088199 A JP11088199 A JP 11088199A JP 11088199 A JP11088199 A JP 11088199A JP 3634977 B2 JP3634977 B2 JP 3634977B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- note
- makeup
- cosmetic
- manufactured
- acid
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Fee Related
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Landscapes
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Description
【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、経時での高い化粧持続性を有しながら、伸び広がりが良好であるという使用性に優れ、また、肌にムラ無く均一に塗布することができ、しかも化粧直しが容易である、優れた油性化粧料に関するものである。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
従来、油性化粧料の化粧持続性を向上させる為に以下のような検討がなされてきた。
▲1▼肌への密着性・粘着性の高い油剤やワックスを多く配合して、化粧膜を強固にする方法。
▲2▼被膜形成剤を配合して、化粧膜の物理的強度を向上させる方法。
▲3▼水膨潤性高分子を配合して、皮膚や空気中の水分を取り込んで化粧膜を強固にする方法。
▲4▼撥油性の高い油剤を配合して、耐皮脂性を向上させる方法。
【0003】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
しかし、上記▲1▼の方法は、汗や皮脂に対しての強さは得られるが、その反面伸び広がりが悪く使用性が劣り、また、肌に均一に塗布し難く、塗布後は、つっぱり感等の肌への負担感、化粧を落す際の肌負担(クレンジングし難さ)等の問題が生じる場合があった。▲2▼の方法では、被膜による充分な効果を得る為に揮発性の油剤を用いる必要があり、密閉性の容器が必要になるといった問題や、化粧直しの際の重ね付けし難さ、経時で化粧が部分的に崩れ易いため、顔面で化粧料が残っている部分と崩れている部分が明確になるために外観の美しさを損ねる、等の問題が生じる場合があった。▲3▼の方法では、水膨潤性高分子の分散が悪く、凝集体が部分的に水分を取り込んでしまい、不均一な化粧膜を形成したり、経時で化粧膜が硬くなる、等の問題が生じる場合があった。▲4▼の方法では、撥油性の高い油剤は、他の油剤と相溶性が悪いため、経時で化粧料から汗の様に排液(発汗といった現象)する、等の問題が生じる場合があった。
よって、経時での高い化粧持続性を有しながら、伸び広がりが良好であるという使用性に優れ、また、肌にムラ無く均一に塗布することができ、しかも化粧直しが容易である、油性化粧料の開発が強く望まれていた。
【0004】
【課題を解決するための手段】
かかる事情に鑑み鋭意研究の結果、本発明者はジイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリルの抱水能に着目し、油性化粧料中でも水を抱える性質を利用し、この抱水された水でカルボキシビニルポリマー及び/又はアルキル変性カルボキシビニルポリマーを膨潤させることにより、経時での高い化粧持続性を有する油性化粧料が得られることを見出した。また同時に、ジイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル中にはカルボキシビニルポリマー及び/又はアルキル変性カルボキシビニルポリマーが良好に分散することから、従来分散が困難であった前記ポリマーの分散性が向上することを見出した。更に、これら両者を配合した油性化粧料は、塗布する際に滑らかで伸び広がりが良好であること、化粧膜全体が同じ化粧持続性を有するので経時で部分的に崩れたりしないこと、そのため化粧直しも容易である等の優れた特性を有することを見出した。、更に、この油性化粧料にロジン系樹脂や煙霧状疎水化シリカを含有させると、肌との強い付着、経時での皮脂の吸収効果が相乗的に飛躍し、化粧持続性の効果が向上することを見出した。
【0005】
すなわち、本発明は、即ち本発明は下記成分(a)、(b);
(a)カルボキシビニルポリマー及び/又はアルキル変性カルボキシビニルポリマー
(b)ジイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル
を含有することを特徴とする油性化粧料。
更に、ロジン系樹脂を含有する前記油性化粧料、また更に、煙霧状疎水化シリカを含有する前記油性化粧料に関するものである。
【0006】
【発明の実施の形態】
本発明で用いられる成分(a)カルボキシビニルポリマー及び/又はアルキル変性カルボキシビニルポリマーは、油性化粧料中で水分と接触すると膨潤する性質を有するため、化粧持続性を高めるものである。成分(a)のポリマーは、通常化粧料に用いられるカルボキシル基を有する水溶性高分子であり、アクリル酸重合体、アクリル酸とアルキルアクリル酸共重合体、アルキルアクリル酸の架橋重合体等が例示できる。本発明の油性化粧料においては、分散性の観点から、アルキル変性カルボキシビニルポリマーがより好ましい。成分(a)は、カルボキシビニルポリマーの市販品として、アクリル酸重合体である、ハイビスワコー(和光純薬工業社製)、カーボポール940、同941(何れも、グッドリッチ社製)、アクベック(住友精化製)等、アルキル変性カルボキシビニルポリマーとして、アクリル酸とアルキルアクリル酸共重合体である、ペミュレンTR−1、ペミュレンTR−2(何れも、グッドリッチ社製)等、アルキルアクリル酸の架橋重合体である、カーボポール1342(グッドリッチ社製)等が例示される。これらは、必要に応じて一種又は二種以上を用いることができる。またこれらは、従来、化粧料へ水膨潤物として配合されているが、本発明では粉末状で含有することを特徴とする。
【0007】
本発明の油性化粧料における成分(a)の含有量は、全組成中に0.05〜2重量%(以下単に「%」で示す)が好ましく、更に0.2〜1%がより好ましい。この範囲で含有すると、塗布膜の均一性、化粧持続性、使用性等がより良好となる。
【0008】
本発明で用いられる成分(b)ジイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリルは、分子内に水を抱え込む能力を有するものであり、油性化粧料中で、水分を抱え、その水分を成分(a)のポリマーに供給する役割と、成分(b)自身も水分を抱えることにより、化粧持続性を高め、使用性、肌への付着性を高めるものである。成分(b)は、2〜10個のグリセリンが縮合したポリグリセリンと、イソステアリン酸のジエステルであり、ジイソステアリン酸ジグリセリル、ジイソステアリン酸トリグリセリル、ジイソステアリン酸ヘキサグリセリル、ジイソステアリン酸デカグリセリル等が挙げられる。本発明の油性化粧料においては、使用性の観点より、ジイソステアリン酸ジグリセリル、ジイソステアリン酸トリグリセリルが好ましい。成分(b)は、市販品として、ジイソステアリン酸ジグリセリルである、NIKKOL DGDIS(日光ケミカルズ社製)、EmalexDISG−2(日本エマルジョン社製)、マツネートDI(松本製薬工業社製)、ユニグリGI−202(日本油脂社製)、コスモール42(日清製油社製)、ジイソステアリン酸トリグリセリルとしては、EmalexDISG−3(日本エマルジョン社製)、ユニグリGI−203(日本油脂社製)、ジイソステアリン酸デカグリセリルとしては、NIKKOLDecaglyn2−IS(日光ケミカルズ社製)、EmalexDISG−10(日本エマルジョン社製)等が例示される。これらは、必要に応じて一種又は二種以上を用いることができる。
【0009】
本発明の油性化粧料における成分(b)の含有量は、全組成中に1〜10%が好ましく、更に2〜5%がより好ましい。この範囲で含有すると、化粧持続性や伸び広がりといった使用性がより良好で、化粧直しもより容易なものが得られる。
【0010】
本発明の油性化粧料には、上記成分(a)及び(b)に加えて、更に成分(c)ロジン系樹脂を含有すると、化粧料と肌との密着性が向上するため、化粧持続性がより優れるものである。係る成分(c)は、ロジン、水素添加ロジン、重合ロジン、アビエチン酸等のロジン系樹脂と、ペンタエリスリット、ジペンタエリスリット、グリセリン等の多価アルコールとのエステルであり、ロジン酸ペンタエリスリット、ロジン酸ジペンタエリスリット、水素添加ロジン酸ペンタエリスリット、アビエチン酸ペンタエリスリット等が挙げられる。これらは、必要に応じて一種又は二種以上を用いることができる。
【0011】
本発明の油性化粧料における成分(c)の含有量は、全組成中に0.5〜8%が好ましく、更に1〜5%がより好ましい。この範囲で含有すると、化粧持続性がより向上する。
【0012】
本発明の油性化粧料には、上記成分(a)及び(b)、又は成分(a)〜(c)に加えて、更に成分(d)煙霧状疎水化シリカを含有すると、経時での皮脂の吸収効果が向上するため、化粧持続性がより優れるものである。係る成分(d)煙霧状疎水化シリカは、微細なシリカのエアロゾルで、粒径は5〜50nmであり、その表面をジメチルジクロロシラン、ジメチルポリシロキサン等の処理剤にて疎水化処理したものである。成分(d)の市販品としては、エロジールR−972、R−974、RX−300(日本エアロジル社製)、キャボジルTS−530(キャボット社製)等が例示される。これらは、必要に応じて一種又は二種以上を用いることができる。
【0013】
本発明の油性化粧料における成分(d)の含有量は、全組成中に0.05〜5%が好ましく、更に0.8〜3%がより好ましい。この範囲で含有すると、使用性と化粧持続性がより向上する。
【0014】
本発明の油性化粧料には、上記必須成分に加えて、メーキャップ効果や感触改良を目的として、通常油性化粧料に用いられる粉体を配合することができる。これら粉体は、例えば、球状、板状、針状等の形状、煙霧状、微粒子、顔料級等の粒子径、多孔質、無孔質等の粒子構造、等により特に限定されず、無機粉体類、光輝性粉体類、有機粉体類、色素粉体類、複合粉体類、等が挙げられる。具体的には、酸化チタン、黒酸化チタン、コンジョウ、群青、ベンガラ、黄酸化鉄、黒酸化鉄、酸化亜鉛、酸化アルミニウム、二酸化珪素、酸化マグネシウム、酸化ジルコニウム、炭酸マグネシウム、炭酸カルシウム、酸化クロム、水酸化クロム、カーボンブラック、ケイ酸アルミニウム、ケイ酸マグネシウム、ケイ酸アルミニウムマグネシウム、マイカ、合成マイカ、合成セリサイト、セリサイト、タルク、カオリン、炭化珪素、硫酸バリウム、ベントナイト、スメクタイト、窒化硼素等の無機粉体類、オキシ塩化ビスマス、雲母チタン、酸化鉄コーティング雲母、酸化鉄雲母チタン、タール色素、有機顔料処理雲母チタン、アルミニウムパウダー等の光輝性粉体類、ナイロンパウダー、ポリメチルメタクリレート、アクリロニトリル−メタクリル酸共重合体パウダー、塩化ビニリデン−メタクリル酸共重合体パウダー、ポリスチレンパウダー、ポリメチルシルセスキオキサンパウダー、ウールパウダー、シルクパウダー、結晶セルロース、N−アシルリジン等の有機粉体類、微粒子酸化チタン被覆雲母チタン、微粒子酸化亜鉛被覆雲母チタン、硫酸バリウム被覆雲母チタン、酸化チタン含有二酸化珪素、酸化亜鉛含有二酸化珪素等の複合粉体、等が挙げられ、これらを一種又は二種以上用いることができる。また、これら粉体は、化粧持続性の向上、肌への付着性改良、感触調製等を目的として、シリコーン類、フッ素化合物、金属石鹸類、油剤等の通常公知の方法により表面処理して配合することができる。
【0015】
また本発明の油性化粧料には、上記必須成分に加えて、油性固形化粧料の場合の形状保持、肌への付着性、肌へのエモリエント感付与、化粧持続性等を目的として、通常油性化粧料に用いられる油剤を配合することができる。これら油剤としては、例えば、動物油、植物油、合成油等の起源及び、固形油、半固形油、液体油、揮発性油等の性状を問わず、炭化水素類、油脂類、ロウ類、硬化油類、エステル油類、脂肪酸類、高級アルコール類、シリコーン油類、フッ素系油類、ラノリン誘導体類等が挙げられる。具体的には、流動パラフィン、スクワラン、ワセリン、ポリイソブチレン、ポリブテン、パラフィンワックス、セレシンワックス、マイクロクリスタリンワックス、モクロウ、モンタンワックス、フィッシャトロプスワックス等の炭化水素類、オリーブ油、ヒマシ油、ホホバ油、ミンク油マカデミアンナッツ油等の油脂類、ミツロウ、ラノリン、カルナウバワックス、キャンデリラワックス、ゲイロウ等のロウ類、セチルイソオクタネート、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、パルミチン酸イソプロピル、ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル、トリオクタン酸グリセリル、トリイソステアリン酸ジグリセリル、トリベヘン酸グリセリル、ジオクタン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、コレステロール脂肪酸エステル、N−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸ジ(コレステリル・ベヘニル・オクチルドデシル)等のエステル類、ステアリン酸、ラウリン酸、ミリスチン酸、ベヘニン酸、イソステアリン酸、オレイン酸、12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸等の脂肪酸類、ステアリルアルコール、セチルアルコール、ラウリルアルコール、オレイルアルコール、イソステアリルアルコール、ベヘニルアルコール等の高級アルコール類、低重合度ジメチルポリシロキサン、高重合度ジメチルポリシロキサン、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン、デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン、オクタメチルシクロテトラシロキサン、架橋型オルガノポリシロキサン、フッ素変性シリコーン等のシリコーン類、パーフルオロポリエーテル、パーフルオロデカン、パーフルオロオクタン等のフッ素系油剤類、ラノリン、酢酸ラノリン、ラノリン脂肪酸イソプロピル、ラノリンアルコール等のラノリン誘導体類、等が挙げられ、これらを一種又は二種以上用いることができる。
【0016】
本発明の油性化粧料には、上記必須成分に加えて、本発明の効果を妨げない範囲で、通常化粧料に配合可能な成分を配合することができる。例示すれば、多価アルコール、糖類、糖誘導体、アミノ酸、アミノ酸誘導体、塩類等の保湿剤、安息香酸、パラオキシ安息香酸エステル等の防腐剤、ビタミンE誘導体等の酸化防止剤、PABA誘導体類、桂皮酸誘導体類、オキシベンゾン類、ベンゾイルメタン誘導体等の紫外線吸収剤、植物抽出エキス等の美肌成分、冷感剤、香料等が挙げられる。
【0017】
本発明の油性化粧料は通常公知の方法で製造されるものであり、例えば、成分(a)〜(d)及びその他任意成分を必要に応じて加熱し溶解した後、均一に混合分散し、容器に流し込み、冷却固化する方法等により、得られるものである。また、本発明の油性化粧料は、実質的に水を含有しない化粧料である。
【0018】
本発明の油性化粧料の化粧品的用途は、口紅、アイシャドウ、アイブロウ、頬紅、ファンデーション、コントロールカラー等のメーキャップ化粧料が挙げられるが、この中でも口紅、アイシャドウ、ファンデーション、コントロールカラー等が、本発明の効果が発揮し易い化粧料である。
【実施例】
次に、実施例を挙げて本発明を更に説明するが、本発明はこれら実施例に限定されるものではない。
【0019】
実施例1〜6及び比較例1〜7:口紅
表1及び表2に示す処方の口紅を製造し、「化粧持続性」、「伸び広がりが良さ(使用性)」、「付着の均一性(ムラの無さ)」、「化粧直しの容易さ」の各項目を評価し、結果を併せて表1及び表2にまとめた。
【0020】
【表1】
(注1)シリコンKF−7312J(信越化学工業社製)
(注2)フォンブリンHC/04(アウシモント社製)
(注3)キャボジルTS−530(キャボット社製)
(注4)ペミュレンTR−2(グッドリッチ社製)
【0021】
【表2】
(注1)シリコンKF−7312J(信越化学工業社製)
(注2)フォンブリンHC/04(アウシモント社製)
(注3)キャボジルTS−530(キャボット社製)
(注4)ペミュレンTR−2(グッドリッチ社製)
【0022】
(製造方法)
A:1〜13を100℃で均一に溶解する。
B:Aに14〜28を加えホモミキサーにて混合分散する。
C:Bを金皿に流し込み、冷却固化して口紅を得た。
【0023】
(評価方法)
化粧歴10年以上の女性40人を評価パネルとし、実施例及び比較例の口紅を使用してもらい、「経時での化粧持続性」、「伸び広がりが良さ(使用性)」、「付着の均一性(ムラの無さ)」、「化粧直しの容易さ」の各項目について、良好であると感じたパネルの人数から、以下の基準で判定した。
【0024】
表1及び表2の結果から明らかなように、本発明に係わる実施例1〜6の口紅は、「化粧持続性」、「伸び広がりが良さ(使用性)」、「付着の均一性(ムラの無さ)」、「化粧直しの容易さ」の全ての項目が優れたものであった。それに対し、比較例1〜7の口紅は、全ての項目を満足するものは得られなかった。
【0025】
実施例7:アイシャドウ
(成分) (配合量:重量%)
1 マイクロクリスタリンワックス 5
2 セレシンワックス 10
3 ジイソステアリン酸トリグリセリル(注5) 4
4 ワセリン 5
5 スクワラン 残部
6 ジカプリン酸プロピレングリコール 15
7 球状ナイロン粉末 5
8 シリコーン処理セリサイト(注6) 15
9 シリコーン処理タルク(注7) 10
10 赤色202号 0.5
11 青色404号 1
12 シリコーン処理酸化チタン(注8) 2
13 カルボキシビニルポリマー(注9) 2
14 美容成分 適量
15 香料 適量
(注5)Emalex DISG−3(日本エマルジョン社製)
(注6)SA−セイリサイトFSE(三好化成社製)
(注7)SA−タルクハイフィラーK−5(三好化成社製)
(注8)SA−チタンA−100(80%)(三好化成社製)
(注9)カーボポール940(グッドリッチ社製)
【0026】
(製造方法)
A:1〜6を100℃にて均一溶解する。
B:Aに7〜15を加え、90℃でホモミキサーにて均一に混合分散する。
C:Bを金皿に流し込み、冷却固化してアイシャドウを得た。
実施例7のアイシャドウは、「化粧持続性」、「伸び広がりが良さ(使用性)」、「付着の均一性(ムラの無さ)」、「化粧直しの容易さ」の全ての項目が優れたものであった。
【0027】
実施例8:頬紅
(成分) (配合量:重量%)
1 カルナウバワックス 10
2 ポリエチレンポリプロピレンコポリマー 10
3 ロジン酸ペンタエリスリット 7
4 トリイソオクタン酸グリセリル 10
5 トリメチルシロキシケイ酸溶液(注10) 5
6 ジイソステアリン酸デカグリセリル(注11) 10
7 流動パラフィン 残部
8 球状ポリスチレン粉末 4
9 雲母チタン 2
10 セリサイト 15
11 タルク 10
12 有機変性粘土鉱物(注12) 0.5
13 赤色226号 1
14 黄色4号アルミニウムレーキ顔料 2
15 黒色酸化鉄 0.2
16 アルキル変性カルボキシビニルポリマー(注13) 0.05
17 美容成分 適量
18 保湿剤 適量
19 香料 適量
(注10)シリコンKF−7312F(信越化学工業社製)
(注11)NIKKOL Decaglyn2−IS(日光ケミカルズ社製)
(注12)ベントン38(NLインダストリー社製)
(注13)ペミュレンTR−1(グッドリッチ社製)
【0028】
(製造方法)
A:1〜7を100℃にて均一溶解する。
B:Aに8〜19を加えロールミルにて均一分散する。
C:Bを金皿に流し込み、冷却固化して頬紅を得た。
実施例8の頬紅は、「化粧持続性」、「伸び広がりが良さ(使用性)」、「付着の均一性(ムラの無さ)」、「化粧直しの容易さ」の全ての項目が優れたものであった。
【0029】
(実施例9)スティック状アイブロウ
(成分) (配合量:重量%)
1 セレシンワックス 10
2 ポリエチレンワックス 10
3 部分架橋型オルガノポリシロキサン(注14) 1
4 メチルフェニルポリシロキサン 5
5 ジメチルポリシロキサン 5
6 ジイソステアリン酸ジグリセリル(注15) 7
7 2−エチルヘキサン酸セチル 残部
8 ロジン酸ペンタエリスリット 0.5
9 球状ポリメチルメタクリレート粉末 5
10 シリコーン処理マイカ(注16) 5
11 シリコーン処理黒色酸化鉄(注17) 5
12 シリコーン処理黄色酸化鉄(注18) 1
13 煙霧状疎水化シリカ(注19) 1
14 炭酸カルシウム(注20) 10
15 アルキル変性カルボキシビニルポリマー(注21) 1.5
16 美容成分 適量
17 香料 適量
(注14)シリコンKSG16(信越化学工業社製)
(注15)NIKKOL DGDIS(日光ケミカルズ社製)
(注16)SAエクセルマイカJP−1(三好化成社製)
(注17)SA−ブラックBL−100(100%)(三好化成社製)
(注18)SA−イエローレモン(80%)(三好化成社製)
(注19)エロジールR−974(日本エアロジル社製)
(注20)ウィスカルA(丸尾カルシウム社製)
(注21)カーボポール1342(グッドリッチ社製)
【0030】
(製造方法)
A:1〜8を100℃にて均一溶解する。
B:Aに9〜17を加えロールミルにて均一分散する。
C:Bをスティック用の成形用型に流し込み、冷却固化しスティック状アイブロウを得た。
実施例9のスティック状アイブロウは、「化粧持続性」、「伸び広がりが良さ(使用性)」、「付着の均一性(ムラの無さ)」、「化粧直しの容易さ」の全ての項目が優れたものであった。
【0031】
【0032】
(製造方法)
A:1〜6を100℃にて均一溶解する。
B:Aに7〜20を加えホモミキサーにて均一に分散する。
C:Bを容器に金皿に流し込み、冷却してファンデーションを得た。
実施例10のファンデーションは、「化粧持続性」、「伸び広がりが良さ(使用性)」、「付着の均一性(ムラの無さ)」、「化粧直しの容易さ」の全ての項目が優れたものであった。
【0033】
【0034】
(製造方法)
A:1〜7を100℃にて均一に溶解する。
B:Aに8〜16を加え均一に分散する。
C:Bを樹脂皿に流し込み、冷却固化してコントロールカラーを得た。
実施例11のコントロールカラーは、「化粧持続性」、「伸び広がりが良さ(使用性)」、「付着の均一性(ムラの無さ)」、「化粧直しの容易さ」の全ての項目が優れたものであった。
【0035】
【発明の効果】
本発明の油性化粧料は、経時での高い化粧持続性を有しながら、伸び広がりが良好であるという使用性に優れ、また、肌にムラ無く均一に塗布することができ、しかも化粧直しが容易である、優れた特性を有していた。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is excellent in usability that it has a good makeup persistence over time and has a good spread of spread, and can be applied evenly and uniformly on the skin, and it is easy to remake. It relates to oily cosmetics.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, the following studies have been made to improve the makeup sustainability of oily cosmetics.
(1) A method of strengthening the cosmetic film by blending a lot of oils and waxes with high adhesion and adhesion to the skin.
(2) A method for improving the physical strength of a decorative film by blending a film forming agent.
(3) A method of strengthening the decorative film by incorporating water-swellable polymer and taking in moisture in the skin and air.
(4) A method of improving sebum resistance by blending an oil agent with high oil repellency.
[0003]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
However, the above method (1) provides strength against sweat and sebum, but on the other hand, it has poor stretchability and inferior usability, and it is difficult to apply evenly to the skin. There are cases where problems such as feeling of burden on the skin such as feeling and skin burden (difficult to cleanse) occur when removing makeup. In the method (2), it is necessary to use a volatile oil agent in order to obtain a sufficient effect by the coating, and there is a problem that a hermetically sealed container is required, difficulty in overlaying when applying makeup, over time. Since the makeup is liable to partially collapse, there are cases where problems such as deteriorating the beauty of the appearance due to the fact that the portion where the cosmetic material remains on the face and the portion that has collapsed are clear. In the method (3), the dispersion of the water-swellable polymer is poor, and the aggregates partially take in moisture, thereby forming a non-uniform cosmetic film and the cosmetic film becoming hard over time. May occur. In the method (4), since the oil agent with high oil repellency is not compatible with other oil agents, problems such as drainage from the cosmetic like sweat (a phenomenon such as sweating) may occur over time. It was.
Therefore, it is excellent in usability that it has good makeup persistence over time, has good stretch spread, and can be applied evenly and uniformly on the skin, and it is easy to remake and is an oily cosmetic. Development of was strongly desired.
[0004]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
As a result of diligent research in view of such circumstances, the present inventors paid attention to the water-holding ability of polyglyceryl diisostearate and utilized the property of holding water even in oily cosmetics. With this water held in water, carboxyvinyl polymer and / or alkyl It was found that by swelling the modified carboxyvinyl polymer, an oily cosmetic having a high makeup persistence over time can be obtained. At the same time, since the carboxyvinyl polymer and / or the alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer is well dispersed in the polyglyceryl diisostearate, it has been found that the dispersibility of the polymer, which has heretofore been difficult to disperse, is improved. Furthermore, oily cosmetics containing both of these have a smooth and good spread when applied, and since the entire cosmetic film has the same makeup persistence, it does not partially collapse over time, so re-makeup is also possible. It has been found that it has excellent characteristics such as being easy. Furthermore, when this oily cosmetic contains rosin-based resin or fumed hydrophobic silica, the strong adhesion to the skin and the effect of sebum absorption over time will synergistically improve, and the effect of makeup sustainability will improve. I found out.
[0005]
That is, the present invention, that is, the present invention includes the following components (a) and (b);
(A) A carboxyvinyl polymer and / or an alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer (b) an oily cosmetic comprising polyglyceryl diisostearate.
Furthermore, the present invention relates to the oily cosmetic containing a rosin resin, and further to the oily cosmetic containing fumed hydrophobic silica.
[0006]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The component (a) carboxyvinyl polymer and / or alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer used in the present invention has a property of swelling when it comes into contact with moisture in an oily cosmetic, and thus enhances makeup persistence. The polymer of component (a) is a water-soluble polymer having a carboxyl group usually used in cosmetics, and examples thereof include acrylic acid polymers, acrylic acid and alkyl acrylic acid copolymers, and alkyl acrylic acid cross-linked polymers. it can. In the oily cosmetic of the present invention, an alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer is more preferable from the viewpoint of dispersibility. Component (a) is a commercial product of carboxyvinyl polymer, which is an acrylic acid polymer, Hibiswako (manufactured by Wako Pure Chemical Industries, Ltd.), Carbopol 940, 941 (both manufactured by Goodrich), Akebec ( As an alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer such as Sumitomo Seika Co., Ltd., acrylic acid and alkylacrylic acid copolymer, such as Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2 (both manufactured by Goodrich), etc. Examples thereof include carbopol 1342 (manufactured by Goodrich), which is a crosslinked polymer. These can use 1 type, or 2 or more types as needed. These are conventionally blended into cosmetics as a water-swelled product, but are characterized in that they are contained in powder form in the present invention.
[0007]
The content of the component (a) in the oily cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably 0.05 to 2% by weight (hereinafter simply referred to as “%”) in the total composition, and more preferably 0.2 to 1%. When it contains in this range, the uniformity of a coating film, makeup sustainability, usability, etc. will become more favorable.
[0008]
Component (b) polyglyceryl diisostearate used in the present invention has the ability to entrap water in the molecule, and in oily cosmetics, holds moisture and supplies the moisture to the polymer of component (a) And the component (b) itself also has moisture, thereby enhancing makeup sustainability and enhancing usability and adhesion to the skin. Component (b) is a polyester obtained by condensation of 2 to 10 glycerols and a diester of isostearic acid, and examples thereof include diglyceryl diisostearate, triglyceryl diisostearate, hexaglyceryl diisostearate, and decaglyceryl diisostearate. In the oily cosmetic of the present invention, diglyceryl diisostearate and triglyceryl diisostearate are preferable from the viewpoint of usability. Component (b) is diglyceryl diisostearate as a commercial product, NIKKOL DGDIS (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals), Emalex DISG-2 (manufactured by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd.), Matsunate DI (manufactured by Matsumoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.), UNIGLY GI-202 (Nippon Yushi Co., Ltd.), Cosmol 42 (Nisshin Oil Co., Ltd.), diisostearate triglyceryl, Emalex DISG-3 (Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd.), Unigri GI-203 (Nippon Yushi Co., Ltd.), diisostearate decaglyceryl Examples thereof include NIKKOLD decaglyn2-IS (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals) and Emalex DISG-10 (manufactured by Nippon Emulsion). These can use 1 type, or 2 or more types as needed.
[0009]
The content of the component (b) in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 1 to 10%, more preferably 2 to 5% in the total composition. When the content is within this range, it is possible to obtain a product having better useability such as makeup sustainability and spread of spread, and easier remake.
[0010]
In addition to the components (a) and (b) described above, the oily cosmetic of the present invention further contains a component (c) rosin resin, so that the adhesion between the cosmetic and the skin is improved. Is better. The component (c) is an ester of a rosin resin such as rosin, hydrogenated rosin, polymerized rosin, and abietic acid and a polyhydric alcohol such as pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, and glycerin. A slit, a rosin acid dipentaery slit, a hydrogenated rosin acid pentaerythritol, an abietic acid pentaerythritol, etc. are mentioned. These can use 1 type, or 2 or more types as needed.
[0011]
The content of the component (c) in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.5 to 8%, more preferably 1 to 5% in the total composition. When it contains in this range, makeup sustainability improves more.
[0012]
When the oily cosmetic of the present invention further contains component (d) fumed hydrophobized silica in addition to the components (a) and (b) or components (a) to (c), sebum over time Since the absorption effect is improved, the makeup persistence is more excellent. The component (d) fumed hydrophobized silica is a fine silica aerosol having a particle size of 5 to 50 nm and its surface hydrophobized with a treating agent such as dimethyldichlorosilane or dimethylpolysiloxane. is there. Examples of commercially available components (d) include Erogil R-972, R-974, RX-300 (manufactured by Nippon Aerosil Co., Ltd.), Cabogil TS-530 (manufactured by Cabot Corp.), and the like. These can use 1 type, or 2 or more types as needed.
[0013]
The content of the component (d) in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.05 to 5%, more preferably 0.8 to 3%, in the total composition. When it contains in this range, usability and makeup sustainability are further improved.
[0014]
In addition to the above essential components, the oily cosmetics of the present invention can be blended with powders usually used in oily cosmetics for the purpose of improving the makeup effect and feel. These powders are not particularly limited by, for example, spherical, plate-like, needle-like shapes, fumes, fine particles, particle sizes such as pigment grades, porous and non-porous particle structures, etc. Body, glitter powder, organic powder, pigment powder, composite powder, and the like. Specifically, titanium oxide, black titanium oxide, conger, ultramarine, bengara, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, zinc oxide, aluminum oxide, silicon dioxide, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, chromium oxide, Chromium hydroxide, carbon black, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, mica, synthetic mica, synthetic sericite, sericite, talc, kaolin, silicon carbide, barium sulfate, bentonite, smectite, boron nitride, etc. Inorganic powders, bismuth oxychloride, mica titanium, iron oxide-coated mica, iron oxide mica titanium, tar dye, organic pigment-treated mica titanium, aluminum powder and other glittering powders, nylon powder, polymethyl methacrylate, acrylonitrile Me Kurylic acid copolymer powder, vinylidene chloride-methacrylic acid copolymer powder, polystyrene powder, polymethylsilsesquioxane powder, wool powder, silk powder, crystalline cellulose, organic cellulose such as N-acyl lysine, fine particle titanium oxide Coated mica titanium, fine particle zinc oxide coated titanium mica, barium sulfate coated mica titanium, titanium oxide-containing silicon dioxide, zinc oxide-containing silicon dioxide and the like, and the like can be used alone or in combination of two or more. . In addition, these powders are blended after surface treatment by generally known methods such as silicones, fluorine compounds, metal soaps, oils, etc. for the purpose of improving makeup persistence, improving adhesion to the skin, and adjusting the feel. can do.
[0015]
In addition to the above essential components, the oily cosmetics of the present invention are usually oily for the purpose of maintaining the shape in the case of oily solid cosmetics, adhesion to the skin, imparting emollient to the skin, makeup sustainability, etc. Oils used in cosmetics can be blended. These oil agents include, for example, hydrocarbons, fats and oils, waxes, hardened oils, regardless of the origin, such as animal oils, vegetable oils, synthetic oils, and properties such as solid oils, semi-solid oils, liquid oils, volatile oils, etc. , Ester oils, fatty acids, higher alcohols, silicone oils, fluorine oils, lanolin derivatives and the like. Specifically, hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, squalane, petrolatum, polyisobutylene, polybutene, paraffin wax, ceresin wax, microcrystalline wax, molasses, montan wax, and Fischer Trops wax, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, Fats and oils such as mink oil macadamian nut oil, beeswax, lanolin, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, waxes such as gay wax, cetyl isooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecyl myristate, glyceryl trioctanoate , Diglyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tribehenate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, cholesterol fatty acid ester, di (N-lauroyl-L-glutamate) Esters such as stearyl, behenyl, octyldodecyl), stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, fatty acids such as 12-hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl Higher alcohols such as alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, low polymerization dimethylpolysiloxane, high polymerization dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, cross-linked organopolysiloxane, Silicones such as fluorine-modified silicone, fluorine-based oils such as perfluoropolyether, perfluorodecane, and perfluorooctane, lanolin, lanolin acetate Isopropyl lanolate, lanolin derivatives such as lanolin alcohols, etc., and these can be used singly or in combination.
[0016]
In addition to the essential components described above, the oily cosmetic of the present invention can be blended with components that can be usually blended in cosmetics within a range that does not interfere with the effects of the present invention. For example, polyhydric alcohols, saccharides, sugar derivatives, amino acids, amino acid derivatives, humectants such as salts, antiseptics such as benzoic acid and paraoxybenzoic acid esters, antioxidants such as vitamin E derivatives, PABA derivatives, cinnamon Examples include ultraviolet light absorbers such as acid derivatives, oxybenzones, and benzoylmethane derivatives, skin-beautifying components such as plant extract, cooling sensation agents, and fragrances.
[0017]
The oily cosmetic of the present invention is usually produced by a known method. For example, the components (a) to (d) and other optional components are heated and dissolved as necessary, and then uniformly mixed and dispersed. It is obtained by pouring into a container and cooling and solidifying. The oily cosmetic of the present invention is a cosmetic that does not substantially contain water.
[0018]
The cosmetic use of the oily cosmetic composition of the present invention includes makeup cosmetics such as lipstick, eye shadow, eyebrow, blusher, foundation, control color, etc. Among them, lipstick, eye shadow, foundation, control color, etc. It is a cosmetic that easily exhibits the effects of the invention.
【Example】
EXAMPLES Next, although an Example is given and this invention is further demonstrated, this invention is not limited to these Examples.
[0019]
Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7: Manufacture lipsticks having the formulations shown in Tables 1 and 2, and "make-up sustainability", "extended spread (usability)", "uniformity of adhesion ( Each item of “no unevenness” and “easy to remake” was evaluated, and the results are summarized in Tables 1 and 2.
[0020]
[Table 1]
(Note 1) Silicon KF-7712J (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
(Note 2) Fomblin HC / 04 (Ausumont)
(Note 3) Cabogil TS-530 (Cabot)
(Note 4) Pemulen TR-2 (Goodrich)
[0021]
[Table 2]
(Note 1) Silicon KF-7712J (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
(Note 2) Fomblin HC / 04 (Ausumont)
(Note 3) Cabogil TS-530 (Cabot)
(Note 4) Pemulen TR-2 (Goodrich)
[0022]
(Production method)
A: 1 to 13 are uniformly dissolved at 100 ° C.
B: Add 14 to 28 to A and mix and disperse with a homomixer.
C: B was poured into a metal pan and solidified by cooling to obtain a lipstick.
[0023]
(Evaluation methods)
40 females with a makeup history of 10 years or more were used as evaluation panels, and the lipsticks of the examples and comparative examples were used, and “makeup persistence over time”, “good spread (usability)”, “adhesion” Each item of “uniformity (non-uniformity)” and “ease of retouching” was determined based on the following criteria based on the number of panel members that felt good.
[0024]
As is apparent from the results of Tables 1 and 2, the lipsticks of Examples 1 to 6 according to the present invention have “makeup durability”, “good spread (usability)”, “uniformity of adhesion (unevenness). ) ”And“ Easy to remake ”were all excellent. On the other hand, the lipsticks of Comparative Examples 1 to 7 were not obtained to satisfy all the items.
[0025]
Example 7: Eye shadow (component) (Blend amount:% by weight)
1 Microcrystalline wax 5
2 Ceresin wax 10
3 Triglyceryl diisostearate (Note 5) 4
4 Petrolatum 5
5 Squalane Remainder 6 Propylene glycol dicaprate 15
7 Spherical nylon powder 5
8 Silicone-treated sericite (Note 6) 15
9 Silicone-treated talc (Note 7) 10
10 Red 202 No.0.5
11 Blue 404 No. 1
12 Silicone-treated titanium oxide (Note 8) 2
13 Carboxyvinyl polymer (Note 9) 2
14 Cosmetic ingredients Appropriate amount 15 Fragrance Appropriate amount (Note 5) Emalex DISG-3 (manufactured by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd.)
(Note 6) SA-Serisite FSE (manufactured by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd.)
(Note 7) SA-talc high filler K-5 (manufactured by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd.)
(Note 8) SA-Titanium A-100 (80%) (manufactured by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd.)
(Note 9) Carbopol 940 (Goodrich)
[0026]
(Production method)
A: 1 to 6 are uniformly dissolved at 100 ° C.
B: Add 7 to 15 to A and uniformly mix and disperse at 90 ° C. with a homomixer.
C: B was poured into a metal pan and solidified by cooling to obtain an eye shadow.
The eye shadow of Example 7 is excellent in all items of “makeup persistence”, “excellent spread (usability)”, “uniformity of adhesion (no unevenness)”, and “easy to remake” It was.
[0027]
Example 8: Blusher (component) (Amount: wt%)
1 Carnauba wax 10
2 Polyethylene polypropylene copolymer 10
3 Rosin acid pentaerythlit 7
4 Glyceryl triisooctanoate 10
5 Trimethylsiloxysilicate solution (Note 10) 5
6 Decaglyceryl diisostearate (Note 11) 10
7 Liquid paraffin remaining 8 Spherical polystyrene powder 4
9 Mica titanium 2
10 Sericite 15
11 Talc 10
12 Organically modified clay mineral (Note 12) 0.5
13 Red 226 1
14 Yellow No. 4 aluminum lake pigment 2
15 Black iron oxide 0.2
16 Alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer (Note 13) 0.05
17 Cosmetic ingredients Appropriate amount 18 Moisturizing agent Appropriate amount 19 Fragrance Appropriate amount (Note 10) Silicon KF-7712F (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
(Note 11) NIKKOL Decaglyn2-IS (Nikko Chemicals)
(Note 12) Benton 38 (manufactured by NL Industry)
(Note 13) Pemulen TR-1 (Goodrich)
[0028]
(Production method)
A: 1-7 are uniformly dissolved at 100 ° C.
B: Add 8 to 19 to A and uniformly disperse with a roll mill.
C: B was poured into a metal pan and cooled and solidified to obtain blusher.
The blusher of Example 8 was excellent in all items of “makeup persistence”, “good spread and spread (usability)”, “uniformity of adhesion (no unevenness)”, and “easy to remake” It was a thing.
[0029]
(Example 9) Stick-shaped eyebrow (component) (Amount:% by weight)
1 Ceresin wax 10
2 Polyethylene wax 10
3 Partially cross-linked organopolysiloxane (Note 14) 1
4 Methylphenylpolysiloxane 5
5 Dimethylpolysiloxane 5
6 Diglyceryl diisostearate (Note 15) 7
7 cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate balance 8 rosin acid pentaerythrit 0.5
9 Spherical polymethyl methacrylate powder 5
10 Silicone-treated mica (Note 16) 5
11 Silicone-treated black iron oxide (Note 17) 5
12 Silicone-treated yellow iron oxide (Note 18) 1
13 Haze-like hydrophobized silica (Note 19) 1
14 Calcium carbonate (Note 20) 10
15 Alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer (Note 21) 1.5
16 Cosmetic ingredient appropriate amount 17 Fragrance appropriate amount (Note 14) Silicon KSG16 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
(Note 15) NIKKOL DGDIS (Nikko Chemicals)
(Note 16) SA Excel Mica JP-1 (manufactured by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd.)
(Note 17) SA-Black BL-100 (100%) (manufactured by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd.)
(Note 18) SA-Yellow Lemon (80%) (manufactured by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd.)
(Note 19) Erogil R-974 (manufactured by Nippon Aerosil Co., Ltd.)
(Note 20) Wiscal A (manufactured by Maruo Calcium)
(Note 21) Carbopol 1342 (Goodrich)
[0030]
(Production method)
A: 1 to 8 are uniformly dissolved at 100 ° C.
B: Add 9 to 17 to A and uniformly disperse with a roll mill.
C: B was poured into a mold for stick, cooled and solidified to obtain a stick-shaped eyebrow.
The stick-shaped eyebrow of Example 9 has all items of “makeup persistence”, “extensive spread (usability)”, “uniformity of adhesion (no unevenness)”, and “easy to remake”. It was excellent.
[0031]
[0032]
(Production method)
A: 1 to 6 are uniformly dissolved at 100 ° C.
B: Add 7 to 20 to A and uniformly disperse with a homomixer.
C: B was poured into a metal pan in a container and cooled to obtain a foundation.
The foundation of Example 10 was excellent in all items of “makeup persistence”, “good spread and spread (usability)”, “uniformity of adhesion (no unevenness)”, and “easy to remake” It was a thing.
[0033]
[0034]
(Production method)
A: 1-7 are uniformly dissolved at 100 ° C.
B: Add 8 to 16 to A and disperse uniformly.
C: B was poured into a resin pan and solidified by cooling to obtain a control collar.
The control color of Example 11 is excellent in all items of “makeup sustainability”, “extended spread (usability)”, “uniformity of adhesion (no unevenness)”, and “easy to remake”. It was.
[0035]
【The invention's effect】
The oily cosmetic composition of the present invention is excellent in usability that it has good makeup persistence over time and has good spread, and can be applied evenly and uniformly on the skin, and it is easy to remake. It had excellent characteristics.
Claims (3)
(a)粉末状のアルキル変性カルボキシビニルポリマー
(b)ジイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル
を含有することを特徴とする非水系油性固型化粧料。The following components (a), (b);
(A) A powdery alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer (b) a polyglyceryl diisostearate containing a non-aqueous oily solid cosmetic.
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JP11088199A JP3634977B2 (en) | 1999-04-19 | 1999-04-19 | Oily cosmetics |
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JP4647084B2 (en) * | 2000-11-22 | 2011-03-09 | 株式会社日本色材工業研究所 | Oily cosmetics |
JP4727067B2 (en) * | 2001-05-21 | 2011-07-20 | 株式会社コーセー | Water based cosmetics |
JP2004277285A (en) * | 2003-01-20 | 2004-10-07 | Nippon Fine Chem Co Ltd | Cosmetics and compositions for making cosmetics |
JP4870337B2 (en) * | 2004-05-19 | 2012-02-08 | 株式会社コーセー | Oily salmon cosmetic |
JP4763258B2 (en) * | 2004-08-31 | 2011-08-31 | 株式会社コーセー | Oily solid cosmetic |
JP4990544B2 (en) * | 2006-03-24 | 2012-08-01 | 株式会社コーセー | Oily solid cosmetic |
JP2009102251A (en) * | 2007-10-23 | 2009-05-14 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Oil-based solid cosmetic preparation |
JP6277307B1 (en) * | 2017-06-20 | 2018-02-07 | ニベア花王株式会社 | Water-in-oil type liquid emulsion composition |
JP2020083864A (en) * | 2018-11-30 | 2020-06-04 | 高級アルコール工業株式会社 | Novel composite and emulsion composition |
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