JP2022067553A - Method for evaluating burden feeling of makeup film - Google Patents

Abstract

To evaluate the burden feeling of a makeup film with high accuracy by an objective evaluation method alternative to organoleptic evaluation including subjective factors as a method for evaluating the feeling of the makeup film on an organism surface.SOLUTION: A method comprises a fixation part that measures a trend of an attenuation factor relative to a lapse time using a rigid pendulum type physical property tester, wherein the fixation part fixes a sample, a pendulum part where a pendulum is suspended from the fixation part, and a sensor part for measuring a swing width of the pendulum, wherein the pendulum part contacts the sample at a knife edge to be a fulcrum of the pendulum and gives free oscillation to the pendulum. This free oscillation undergoes resistance due to viscosity of the sample, so that the oscillation attenuates. Burden feeling is evaluated suing a trend of this attenuation factor.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

The present invention relates to a method for evaluating a feeling of burden on a cosmetic film.

When purchasing cosmetics such as lipsticks, milky lotions, and liquid foundations, the user considers not only the makeup retention on the surface of the living body but also the feel of the formed cosmetic film on the surface of the living body as an important evaluation index.

For example, as a method for evaluating the feeling of tension on the skin surface, a method for evaluating the moisturized state of the stratum corneum by measuring the IR spectrum of the stratum corneum (see Patent Document 1), or a shock wave between terminals arranged on the skin surface. (See Patent Document 2) and the like, which evaluates the tightness of the skin by measuring the propagation time of the shock wave.

On the other hand, as a method for evaluating the feel of the cosmetic film on the surface of a living body, a method by sensory evaluation is often used.

Japanese Patent No. 65678996 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2004-160020

At the site of cosmetics development, there has been a demand for the development of an objective evaluation method as an alternative to the sensory evaluation method including subjective elements as a method for evaluating the feel of the cosmetic film on the biological surface.

Therefore, an object of the present invention is to accurately evaluate the feeling of burden on the cosmetic film.

In examining the feeling of burden on the cosmetic film, the inventors have found that there is a correlation between the evaluation result by the sensory test and the evaluation result by the rigid pendulum test, and have come up with the present invention.

The gist of the present invention is as follows.
The method for evaluating the burden feeling of the cosmetic film of the present invention is characterized by using a rigid pendulum test.
In the method for evaluating the burden feeling of the cosmetic film of the present invention, the magnitude relationship of the burden feeling among the plurality of the decorative film samples is evaluated by comparing the results of the rigid pendulum test among the plurality of the decorative film samples. It is preferable to do so.
Here, in the method for evaluating the burden feeling of the cosmetic film of the present invention, the result of the rigid pendulum test is represented on each of the plurality of decorative film samples, the test time is represented on the horizontal axis, and the logarithmic attenuation rate is represented on the vertical axis. Each of the charts shown is shown, and in the chart, a linear approximation is performed in the range from the time when the test is started to the time after a given time elapses, and the slope in the linear approximation curve obtained by the linear approximation is calculated. It is preferable to evaluate the magnitude relationship of the feeling of burden between the plurality of samples of the decorative membrane by comparing the magnitude of the inclination in the linear approximation curve among the plurality of samples of the decorative membrane. At this time, with respect to any two samples of the plurality of decorative membrane samples, the sample having a larger slope in the linear approximation curve is more than the sample having a smaller slope in the linear approximation curve. It is preferable to evaluate that the burden on the cosmetic film is large.
Further, in the method for evaluating the burden feeling of the decorative film of the present invention, the results of the rigid pendulum test are shown on each of the plurality of decorative film samples, the test time is shown on the horizontal axis, and the logarithmic decrement is shown on the vertical axis. In the chart, the slope of a straight line passing through the plot at the start of the test and the plot at the time after a given time has elapsed is calculated, and a plurality of samples of the cosmetic membrane are sampled. It is preferable to evaluate the magnitude relationship of the feeling of burden between the plurality of samples of the decorative membrane by comparing the magnitude of the inclination of the straight line. At this time, with respect to any two samples of the plurality of samples of the decorative membrane, the sample having a larger slope of the straight line bears more burden on the cosmetic membrane than the sample having a smaller slope of the straight line. It is preferable to evaluate that the feeling is great.
In the method for evaluating the burden feeling of the cosmetic film of the present invention, it is preferable to determine the time point after a lapse of a given time from the start of the test according to the physical characteristics of the cosmetic film.
Further, in the method for evaluating the burden feeling of the cosmetic film of the present invention, it is preferable that the time point after a given time has elapsed from the start of the test is the time point when the logarithmic decrement reaches a predetermined value.
Specifically, in the method for evaluating the burden feeling of the cosmetic film of the present invention, the time when the logarithmic decrement reaches a predetermined value is defined as the time when the logarithmic decrement reaches a value in the range of 0.1 to 0.5. It is preferable to do so. In the method for evaluating the burden feeling of the cosmetic film of the present invention, it is more preferable that the time point when the logarithmic decrement reaches a predetermined value is the time point when the logarithmic decrement reaches 0.3.
Specifically, in the method for evaluating the burden feeling of the cosmetic film of the present invention, it is preferable that the cosmetic film constituting the cosmetic film is a make-up cosmetic film. In the method for evaluating the burden feeling of the cosmetic film of the present invention, it is more preferable that the makeup cosmetic is lipstick or lip gloss.

According to the present invention, it is possible to accurately evaluate the feeling of burden on the cosmetic film.

FIG. 1 is a diagram showing an outline of a rigid pendulum type physical property tester. (A) is a perspective view showing the whole of a rigid pendulum type physical property tester. (B) is a partial cross-sectional view when cut by a plane along the line AA of (A). FIG. 2 is a chart showing evaluation results when a rigid pendulum test was performed on an R-1 resin, an R-2 resin, and an MQ resin according to the method of the embodiment of the present invention. In the figure, the vertical axis represents the logarithmic decrement (-) and the horizontal axis represents the time (minutes). In the figure, the plot of the R-1 resin is indicated by a triangle, the plot of the R-2 resin is indicated by a circle, and the plot of the MQ resin is indicated by a square.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the method for evaluating the burden feeling of the cosmetic film of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the drawings.
Hereinafter, the embodiment of the present invention is also referred to as "the present embodiment".

The method for evaluating the burden feeling of the cosmetic film of the present embodiment is characterized by using a rigid pendulum test.

The rigid pendulum test is a method of measuring the transition of the damping rate with respect to the elapsed time using a rigid pendulum type physical property tester.
FIG. 1 is a diagram showing an outline of a rigid pendulum type physical property tester. (A) is a perspective view showing the whole of a rigid pendulum type physical property tester. (B) is a partial cross-sectional view when cut by a plane along the line AA of (A).
The rigid pendulum type physical property tester is a tester including a fixed portion for fixing a sample, a pendulum portion in which a pendulum is suspended from the fixed portion, and a sensor portion for measuring the swing width of the pendulum. The pendulum part comes into contact with the sample at the knife edge, serves as a fulcrum of the pendulum, and gives free vibration to the pendulum. This free vibration receives resistance due to the viscosity of the sample, and the vibration is attenuated. The feeling of burden in the present invention can be evaluated by using the transition of the attenuation rate.
Specifically, a test cosmetic is applied to a substrate having an appropriate size to an appropriate thickness to prepare a sample of a cosmetic film. Then, a rigid pendulum test is performed on each of the cosmetic film samples.
The substrate of the sample may be made of any material (for example, aluminum or glass) and may have any size. Further, the cosmetic may be applied to the substrate using a jig, a finger or the like. The thickness of the cosmetic film at the time of the test may be appropriately determined according to the type of cosmetic, and may be 1.0 to 1000 μm, preferably 10 to 500 μm. As the measuring device, for example, a rigid pendulum type physical property tester (manufactured by A & D Co., Ltd., model number RPT-3000W) may be used. Examples of the edge shape include a knife type and a pipe type, but a knife type is preferable. The frame type and frame weight are not particularly limited. The measurement temperature may be 0 to 50 ° C, preferably 25 ° C.

The method of the present embodiment can be suitably applied to cosmetics that are required to reduce the feeling of burden while maintaining the longevity of makeup.

The cosmetic constituting the cosmetic film applicable to the method of the present embodiment is not particularly limited, but is limited to lipstick, lip gloss, lipstick overcoat, base, foundation, BB cream, concealer, eye color, mascara, eyeliner, and the like. Manicure, lotion, beauty liquid, milky lotion, cream, sunscreen, hair styling agent, etc. Lipsticks, lip glosses, lipstick overcoats, eyeliners, and sunscreens are preferable because they are cosmetics that can be applied and that the burden on the cosmetic film is easily felt.

Specifically, in the method of the present embodiment, the magnitude relationship of the feeling of burden between the samples of the plurality of cosmetic films may be evaluated by comparing the results of the rigid pendulum test among the samples of the plurality of cosmetic films.

Here, the plurality of decorative film samples may be two or more decorative film samples such as two, three, and four.
Further, one cosmetic film sample may be composed of several samples, and in that case, the evaluation result of the decorative film sample may be the average of several evaluation results.
Further, the sample of the plurality of cosmetic films may be a plurality of samples made of the same type of cosmetics or a plurality of samples made of different kinds of cosmetics. For example, when a plurality of cosmetic film samples consist of a first cosmetic film sample and a second cosmetic film sample, the first cosmetic film sample and the second cosmetic film sample are used from the viewpoint of improving the accuracy of the comparative study. It is preferable that the sample of the cosmetic film is made of the same kind of cosmetics, and more preferably it is made of the same cosmetics.

More specifically, one aspect of the method of this embodiment may be performed by the following procedure.

First, the results of the rigid pendulum test for each of the plurality of cosmetic film samples are shown in a chart in which the horizontal axis represents the test time and the vertical axis represents the logarithmic decrement (see FIG. 2).
At this time, the unit of the test time is not particularly limited, and may be hours, minutes, and seconds, and is preferably minutes from the viewpoint of a suitable time until the formation of the cosmetic film.

Then, in a chart showing the results of such a rigid pendulum test, a linear approximation is performed in the range from the start of the test to the time point after a lapse of a given time. In addition, when the term "time point after a given time has elapsed" is simply used, it means a time point after a given time has elapsed from the start time of the test.
At this time, the time point after a lapse of a given time from the start of the test may be determined according to the physical characteristics of the cosmetic, and may be a time point when the logarithmic decrement reaches a predetermined value or a time point of a specific value.

In the method of the present embodiment, it is preferable for convenience that the time point after a given time has elapsed from the start of the test is the time point when the logarithmic decrement reaches a predetermined value. The predetermined value is not particularly limited, but is preferably a value in a region close to the start of the test in which linearity is easily obtained in the logarithmic decrement plot for the cosmetic film sample, and is 0.1 to 0.5. The value may be in the range, and is preferably in the range of 0.2 to 0.4, preferably in the range of 0.3 to 0.4, from the viewpoint of clarifying the difference between the samples of a plurality of cosmetic films. The value of is more preferable. As the predetermined value, for example, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5 or the like is used, and 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5 is preferable. It is more preferably 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, and particularly preferably 0.3, 0.4.

Assuming that the time point after a given time has elapsed from the start of the test is the time point at which the logarithmic decrement reaches a predetermined value (for example, 0.3), the time point at which the logarithmic decrement reaches a predetermined value is the time point for the cosmetic membrane sample. In the logarithmic decrement plot, it may be the time point when the logarithmic decrement becomes equal to or higher than a predetermined value for the first time. As described above, assuming that one cosmetic film sample consists of several samples, the time when the logarithmic decrement rate of the decorative film sample reaches a predetermined value is the average of the logarithmic decrement rates of several samples. You may decide on the plot.

In the method of the present embodiment, when the cosmetic constituting the cosmetic film is lipstick or lip gloss, the time point after a given time has elapsed from the start of the test is from the start of the test until the logarithmic decrement reaches 0.3. It is preferably time.

Then, the slope in the linear approximation curve obtained by the linear approximation in the above time range is calculated.

Subsequently, the magnitude relationship of the feeling of burden between the samples of the plurality of cosmetic films is evaluated by comparing the slopes in the linear approximation curve among the samples of the plurality of decorative films.
As described above, the inventors have found that there is a correlation between the evaluation result by the sensory test and the evaluation result by the rigid pendulum test in examining the burden feeling of the cosmetic film. Evaluating the magnitude relationship of the burden feeling by comparing the slopes in the above linear approximation curve is based on this finding.

Specifically, in the evaluation of the magnitude relationship of the feeling of burden, for any two samples of the plurality of cosmetic film samples, the sample having the larger inclination is more than the sample having the smaller inclination. It can be evaluated that the feeling of burden is large.
Here, when there are three or more samples of the cosmetic film, a pair consisting of two samples is arbitrarily selected, and the magnitude relationship of the burden feeling of the cosmetic film is evaluated by comparing the inclinations between the selected pairs. By repeating the selection and evaluation, the magnitude relationship of the burden feeling in the sample of three or more cosmetic films may be determined.

In this way, when the inclination is relatively large, the damping rate of the rigid pendulum is relatively large, and the contraction force in the extending direction of the cosmetic film, which can be a factor of the feeling of burden felt on the surface of the living body, is relatively large. Can be evaluated as.

In the method of the present embodiment, a time point after a given time has elapsed from the start of a plurality of tests, more specifically, a time point when a plurality of logarithmic decrement rates reach a predetermined value is selected, and the results for each case are selected. May be combined to comprehensively evaluate the cosmetic film.

Further, more specifically, another aspect of the method of the present embodiment may be performed by the following procedure.

First, as in the above aspect, the results of the rigid pendulum test are shown for each of the plurality of cosmetic film samples (see FIG. 2).

Then, in the chart showing the result of the rigid pendulum test, the test time at the time when the logarithmic decrement reaches a predetermined value is recorded. The predetermined value may be the same as the above-mentioned one aspect. The time point at which the logarithmic decrement reaches a predetermined value may also be determined in the same manner as in the case of the above-described aspect.

In this other aspect, when the cosmetic constituting the cosmetic film is lipstick or lip gloss, the time when the logarithmic decrement reaches a predetermined value is preferably the time when the logarithmic decrement reaches 0.3.

Subsequently, the slope of a straight line passing through the plot (origin) at the start of the test and the plot at the time when the logarithmic decrement reaches a predetermined value is compared between a plurality of decorative membrane samples, or the logarithmic decrement is determined. By comparing the time points when the predetermined values are reached, the magnitude relationship of the burden feeling among the samples of a plurality of cosmetic films is evaluated.
This step is also based on the finding that there is a correlation between the results of the evaluation by the sensory test and the results of the evaluation by the rigid pendulum test.

As described above, when the slope of the straight line passing through the plot (origin) at the start of the test and the plot at the time when the logarithmic decrement reaches a predetermined value is relatively large, or the logarithmic decrement reaches a predetermined value. When the time point is relatively large, it can be evaluated that the decay rate of the rigid pendulum is relatively large, and the contraction force in the extending direction of the cosmetic film, which can be a factor of the burden felt on the surface of the living body, is relatively large. ..

Although the embodiment of the method for evaluating the burden feeling of the cosmetic film of the present invention has been exemplified with reference to the drawings, the method for evaluating the burden feeling of the cosmetic film of the present invention is limited to the above embodiment. However, the above embodiment may be modified as appropriate.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, but the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

In this example, the following materials were used as the main components of the test cosmetics.
-R-1 resin: polymethylsilsesquioxane / trimethylsiloxysilicic acid-R-2 resin: polymethylsilsesquioxane / trimethylsiloxysilicic acid (the ratio of trimethylsiloxysilicic acid is higher than that of R-1 resin) )
-MQ resin: trimethylsiloxysilicic acid (manufactured by Momentive Performance Materials Japan, trade name SR1000)

The following ingredients were mixed to prepare a test cosmetic.
・ Main component of the above-mentioned cosmetic film: 60 g
-Solvent (isododecan): 40 g

[Evaluation by rigid pendulum test]
Using a jig, apply the above-mentioned test cosmetics to a thickness of 100 μm on an aluminum flat plate (length: 20 mm, width: 50 mm, thickness: 1 mm), which is the substrate of the sample, and apply the cosmetic film sample. Prepared.
A rigid pendulum test was performed on each of the above cosmetic film samples under the following conditions.
-Measuring equipment: Rigid pendulum type physical property tester (manufactured by A & D Co., Ltd., model number RPT-3000W)
-Frame type: Model number FRB-200
・ Frame weight: 47g
-Edge shape: knife type (tip angle: 60 °), model number RBE-160
・ Measurement temperature: 25 ° C

The rigid pendulum test of each sample is shown in a chart showing the test time (minutes) on the horizontal axis and the logarithmic decrement rate (-) on the vertical axis (see FIG. 2).
FIG. 2 is a chart showing evaluation results when a rigid pendulum test was performed on an R-1 resin, an R-2 resin, and an MQ resin according to the method of the embodiment of the present invention. In the figure, the vertical axis represents the logarithmic decrement (-) and the horizontal axis represents the time (minutes). In the figure, the plot of the R-1 resin is indicated by a triangle, the plot of the R-2 resin is indicated by a circle, and the plot of the MQ resin is indicated by a square.

In the resulting chart, for each sample plot, a linear approximation was made using Microsoft® Excel® from the start of the test to the point when the logarithmic decrement reaches 0.3. Then, the slope in the linear approximation curve obtained by the linear approximation was calculated (see Table 1).
Also, in the resulting chart, the time point at which the logarithmic decrement reached 0.3 was recorded for each sample plot.
Table 1 shows the results of the rigid pendulum test of each sample.

[Evaluation by sensory test]
10 subjects (makeup specialty panel) A to J (adult men and women in their 20s to 40s) were covered with lipstick chips to apply the above-mentioned test cosmetics to a thickness of about 50 μm. A cosmetic film was prepared on the lip site.
The subjects determined the feeling of burden on the cosmetic film according to the following criteria, and the average value and standard deviation of the scores of the 10 subjects were calculated.
・ Judgment criteria (score: judgment criteria)
＋3: The skin feels taut, dry or contracted very strongly ＋2: The skin feels taut, dry or contracted +1: The skin feels taut, dry or contracted a little 0: Which Not -1: The skin feels taut, dry or contracted -2: The skin does not feel taut, dry or contracted -3: The skin feels taut, dry or contracted at all I don't receive it.

Table 1 shows the results of the sensory test of each sample.

As shown in Table 1, in the evaluation by the rigid pendulum test, the results were obtained that the burden feeling of the R-1 resin was smaller than that of the R-2 resin, and the burden feeling of the R-2 resin was smaller than that of the MQ resin. .. Moreover, in the evaluation by the sensory test, the same tendency was shown in the feeling of burden among the R-1 resin, the R-2 resin, and the MQ resin. From this result, it was shown that there is a correlation between the evaluation result by the rigid pendulum test in the method of the present embodiment and the evaluation result by the sensory test in the conventional method in examining the burden feeling of the cosmetic film. rice field.
On the other hand, the difference between the average value of the functional evaluation of the R-1 resin and the average value of the functional evaluation of the R-2 resin is the standard deviation of the average value of the R-1 resin and the standard deviation of the average value of the R-2 resin. Was smaller than. From this result, there is a possibility that the sensory evaluation by the conventional method may not accurately evaluate the magnitude of the burden feeling of the samples of a plurality of cosmetic films. In other words, the evaluation by the rigid pendulum test in the method of the present embodiment may not be possible. It was shown that it is possible to accurately evaluate the magnitude of the burden feeling of a plurality of cosmetic film samples.
Then, in the evaluation by the rigid pendulum test in the method of the present embodiment, the slope in the linear approximation curve obtained by the linear approximation in the range from the time of the test start to the time of the test start to the time after a given time elapses is used. Even in this case, it was shown that the burden feeling of the cosmetic film can be evaluated well even when the slope of a straight line passing through the plot at the start of the test and the plot at the time after a given time has elapsed from the start of the test. .. Further, in particular, in the test cosmetics of the examples, a time point at which the logarithmic decrement reaches 0.2, 0.3, 0.4 is selected as a time point after a lapse of a given time from the time point at which the test is started. When the logarithmic decrement was 0.2, the difference between the samples became clearer when the logarithmic decrement was 0.3 and 0.4. have understood.

According to the present invention, it is possible to accurately evaluate the feeling of burden on the cosmetic film.

Claims (12)

A method of evaluating the burden on the cosmetic film using a rigid pendulum test. The method according to claim 1, wherein the magnitude relationship of the feeling of burden between the plurality of decorative film samples is evaluated by comparing the results of the rigid pendulum test among the plurality of decorative film samples. For each of the plurality of decorative film samples,
The results of the rigid pendulum test are shown in a chart showing the test time on the horizontal axis and the logarithmic decrement on the vertical axis.
In the chart, a linear approximation is performed in the range from the start of the test to the time after a given time has elapsed.
Calculate the slope in the linear approximation curve obtained by the linear approximation,
Among the plurality of samples of the cosmetic film,
By comparing the magnitude of the inclination in the linear approximation curve, the magnitude relationship of the feeling of burden between the plurality of samples of the decorative film is evaluated.
The method according to claim 1 or 2. For any two samples of the plurality of decorative membrane samples, the sample having a larger slope in the linear approximation curve has a larger slope than the sample having a smaller slope in the linear approximation curve. The method according to claim 3, wherein the burden is evaluated to be large. For each of the plurality of cosmetic film samples,
The results of the rigid pendulum test are shown in a chart showing the test time on the horizontal axis and the logarithmic decrement on the vertical axis.
In the chart, the slope of a straight line passing through the plot at the start of the test and the plot at the time after a given time has elapsed from the start of the test is calculated.
Among the plurality of samples of the cosmetic film,
By comparing the magnitude of the slope of the straight line, the magnitude relationship of the feeling of burden between the plurality of samples of the decorative film is evaluated.
The method according to claim 1 or 2. For any two samples of the plurality of decorative membrane samples, the sample having a larger slope of a straight line has a greater burden on the cosmetic membrane than the sample having a smaller slope of a straight line. , The method according to claim 5. The method for evaluating the burden feeling of a cosmetic film according to any one of claims 3 to 6, wherein a time point after a given time has elapsed from the start of the test is determined according to the physical characteristics of the cosmetic. The method according to any one of claims 3 to 6, wherein a time point after a given time has elapsed from the start of the test is a time point when the logarithmic decrement reaches a predetermined value. The method according to claim 8, wherein the time when the logarithmic decrement reaches a predetermined value is the time when the logarithmic decrement reaches a value in the range of 0.1 to 0.5. The method according to claim 9, wherein the time when the logarithmic decrement reaches a predetermined value is the time when the logarithmic decrement reaches 0.3. The method for evaluating a feeling of burden on a cosmetic film according to claim 10, wherein the cosmetic film constituting the cosmetic film is a make-up cosmetic. The method according to claim 11, wherein the make-up cosmetic is lipstick or lip gloss.

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