JP2008247759A - Oily cosmetic - Google Patents
Oily cosmetic Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP2008247759A JP2008247759A JP2007087849A JP2007087849A JP2008247759A JP 2008247759 A JP2008247759 A JP 2008247759A JP 2007087849 A JP2007087849 A JP 2007087849A JP 2007087849 A JP2007087849 A JP 2007087849A JP 2008247759 A JP2008247759 A JP 2008247759A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- fatty acid
- component
- acid ester
- degree
- oil
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 45
- -1 fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 158
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 121
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 120
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims abstract description 120
- 238000006116 polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 73
- 229940107187 fructooligosaccharide Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 66
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 35
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- 150000002772 monosaccharides Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 230000032050 esterification Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 238000005886 esterification reaction Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 125000002252 acyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 15
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 7
- 125000003910 behenoyl group Chemical group O=C([*])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 5
- 125000001312 palmitoyl group Chemical group O=C([*])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 5
- 125000001124 arachidoyl group Chemical group O=C([*])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000003696 stearoyl group Chemical group O=C([*])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000013329 compounding Methods 0.000 abstract description 2
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 59
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 59
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 description 48
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 23
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 19
- 229920001202 Inulin Polymers 0.000 description 18
- ZMXDDKWLCZADIW-UHFFFAOYSA-N N,N-Dimethylformamide Chemical compound CN(C)C=O ZMXDDKWLCZADIW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 18
- 229940029339 inulin Drugs 0.000 description 18
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 16
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 16
- 229920003171 Poly (ethylene oxide) Polymers 0.000 description 15
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 14
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 13
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 13
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 13
- OKKJLVBELUTLKV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Methanol Chemical compound OC OKKJLVBELUTLKV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 12
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 12
- 238000003786 synthesis reaction Methods 0.000 description 12
- JUJWROOIHBZHMG-UHFFFAOYSA-N Pyridine Chemical compound C1=CC=NC=C1 JUJWROOIHBZHMG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- JYJIGFIDKWBXDU-MNNPPOADSA-N inulin Chemical compound O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@]1(CO)OC[C@]1(OC[C@]2(OC[C@]3(OC[C@]4(OC[C@]5(OC[C@]6(OC[C@]7(OC[C@]8(OC[C@]9(OC[C@]%10(OC[C@]%11(OC[C@]%12(OC[C@]%13(OC[C@]%14(OC[C@]%15(OC[C@]%16(OC[C@]%17(OC[C@]%18(OC[C@]%19(OC[C@]%20(OC[C@]%21(OC[C@]%22(OC[C@]%23(OC[C@]%24(OC[C@]%25(OC[C@]%26(OC[C@]%27(OC[C@]%28(OC[C@]%29(OC[C@]%30(OC[C@]%31(OC[C@]%32(OC[C@]%33(OC[C@]%34(OC[C@]%35(OC[C@]%36(O[C@@H]%37[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%37)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%36)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%35)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%34)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%33)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%32)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%31)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%30)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%29)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%28)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%27)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%26)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%25)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%24)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%23)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%22)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%21)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%20)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%19)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%18)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%17)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%16)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%15)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%14)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%13)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%12)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%11)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%10)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O9)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O8)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O7)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O6)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O5)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O4)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O3)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 JYJIGFIDKWBXDU-MNNPPOADSA-N 0.000 description 11
- 239000010445 mica Substances 0.000 description 11
- 229910052618 mica group Inorganic materials 0.000 description 11
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 11
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethylene glycol Natural products OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- 239000004166 Lanolin Substances 0.000 description 9
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 9
- 125000005456 glyceride group Chemical group 0.000 description 9
- 235000019388 lanolin Nutrition 0.000 description 9
- 229940039717 lanolin Drugs 0.000 description 9
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 9
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 9
- 238000006467 substitution reaction Methods 0.000 description 9
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 8
- 239000003349 gelling agent Substances 0.000 description 8
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 8
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 8
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 8
- OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N titanium oxide Inorganic materials [Ti]=O OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron oxide Chemical compound [Fe]=O UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 239000002280 amphoteric surfactant Substances 0.000 description 7
- HGKOWIQVWAQWDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N bis(16-methylheptadecyl) 2-hydroxybutanedioate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC(O)C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C HGKOWIQVWAQWDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 125000003976 glyceryl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C(O[H])([H])C(O[H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 7
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 7
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 7
- 239000004375 Dextrin Substances 0.000 description 6
- 229920001353 Dextrin Polymers 0.000 description 6
- 239000006096 absorbing agent Substances 0.000 description 6
- 235000019425 dextrin Nutrition 0.000 description 6
- KWIUHFFTVRNATP-UHFFFAOYSA-N glycine betaine Chemical compound C[N+](C)(C)CC([O-])=O KWIUHFFTVRNATP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 description 6
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 6
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 5
- 229920002472 Starch Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 description 5
- 235000019438 castor oil Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- FTSSQIKWUOOEGC-RULYVFMPSA-N fructooligosaccharide Chemical compound OC[C@H]1O[C@@](CO)(OC[C@@]2(OC[C@@]3(OC[C@@]4(OC[C@@]5(OC[C@@]6(OC[C@@]7(OC[C@@]8(OC[C@@]9(OC[C@@]%10(OC[C@@]%11(O[C@H]%12O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]%12O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]%11O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]%10O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]9O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]8O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]7O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]6O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]5O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]4O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]3O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]2O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O FTSSQIKWUOOEGC-RULYVFMPSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 238000001879 gelation Methods 0.000 description 5
- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 description 5
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N monopropylene glycol Natural products CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 5
- UMJSCPRVCHMLSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyridine Natural products COC1=CC=CN=C1 UMJSCPRVCHMLSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 description 5
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000010936 titanium Substances 0.000 description 5
- 229910052719 titanium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 5
- ULQISTXYYBZJSJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O ULQISTXYYBZJSJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N D-Glucitol Natural products OC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 4
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- BFKJFAAPBSQJPD-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetrafluoroethene Chemical group FC(F)=C(F)F BFKJFAAPBSQJPD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940098465 tincture Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000010384 tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960001295 tocopherol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003799 tocopherol Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000011732 tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229950009883 tocopheryl nicotinate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- GYDJEQRTZSCIOI-LJGSYFOKSA-N tranexamic acid Chemical compound NC[C@H]1CC[C@H](C(O)=O)CC1 GYDJEQRTZSCIOI-LJGSYFOKSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960000401 tranexamic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- LOIYMIARKYCTBW-OWOJBTEDSA-N trans-urocanic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)\C=C\C1=CNC=N1 LOIYMIARKYCTBW-OWOJBTEDSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LOIYMIARKYCTBW-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-urocanic acid Natural products OC(=O)C=CC1=CNC=N1 LOIYMIARKYCTBW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ICUTUKXCWQYESQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N triclocarban Chemical compound C1=CC(Cl)=CC=C1NC(=O)NC1=CC=C(Cl)C(Cl)=C1 ICUTUKXCWQYESQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960001325 triclocarban Drugs 0.000 description 1
- UJMBCXLDXJUMFB-UHFFFAOYSA-K trisodium;5-oxo-1-(4-sulfonatophenyl)-4-[(4-sulfonatophenyl)diazenyl]-4h-pyrazole-3-carboxylate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)C1=NN(C=2C=CC(=CC=2)S([O-])(=O)=O)C(=O)C1N=NC1=CC=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=C1 UJMBCXLDXJUMFB-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
- PBYZMCDFOULPGH-UHFFFAOYSA-N tungstate Chemical compound [O-][W]([O-])(=O)=O PBYZMCDFOULPGH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000013799 ultramarine blue Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940045136 urea Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000003774 valeryl group Chemical group O=C([*])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008158 vegetable oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000012178 vegetable wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960001722 verapamil Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000010455 vermiculite Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052902 vermiculite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000019354 vermiculite Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 125000000391 vinyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])=C([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000010497 wheat germ oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001285 xanthan gum Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000010493 xanthan gum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940082509 xanthan gum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000010447 xylitol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000811 xylitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-SCDXWVJYSA-N xylitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-SCDXWVJYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960002675 xylitol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000001052 yellow pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010457 zeolite Substances 0.000 description 1
- XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc stearate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229940057977 zinc stearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L zinc;1-(5-cyanopyridin-2-yl)-3-[(1s,2s)-2-(6-fluoro-2-hydroxy-3-propanoylphenyl)cyclopropyl]urea;diacetate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O.CCC(=O)C1=CC=C(F)C([C@H]2[C@H](C2)NC(=O)NC=2N=CC(=CC=2)C#N)=C1O UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L 0.000 description 1
- KUPGJMJHAFGISS-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc;hexadecyl phosphate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOP([O-])([O-])=O KUPGJMJHAFGISS-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- OJYLAHXKWMRDGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N zingerone Chemical compound COC1=CC(CCC(C)=O)=CC=C1O OJYLAHXKWMRDGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910001928 zirconium oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
本発明は、フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルでゲル化されたエステル結合含有液状油を含有する油性化粧料に関し、化粧膜の適度で均一な膜厚感を有し、滑らかな使用感と密着性とツヤに優れ、潤い感の持続性が高く、温度安定性が良い油性化粧料に関する。 The present invention relates to an oily cosmetic containing an ester bond-containing liquid oil gelled with a fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester, having an appropriate and uniform film thickness of the decorative film, and having a smooth feeling of use, adhesion and gloss The present invention relates to an oily cosmetic that is excellent, has a long-lasting moisturizing feeling, and has good temperature stability.
口紅に代表されるような油性化粧料は、通常、ワックスなどの固形状油剤、或は液体油をデキストリン脂肪酸エステルや12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸などの油ゲル化剤でゲル化した油性ゲルに、顔料や色素を分散させたものである(特許文献1)。従来、これら固形状油剤の種類、或いは液体油とゲル化剤の種類や配合比率を検討することで油性化粧料の使用感の向上を図ってきた。そして、ツヤを出したい場合はグリセライドやエステルなど極性の液状油を採用しているが、この場合、高温状態において化粧料表面に汗をかいたような状態(液状油滲出、発汗)になりやすい不都合があり、また使用上では、肌や口唇への密着性に欠け、にじみを生じやすいなどの問題があった。そこで、高温状態での安定性を高めるために、ワックスや油ゲル化剤の配合量を高めることが行われてきたが、配合量が高まるとのびや滑らかさに欠け、またツヤが低下したり、使用性が損なわれる場合があった。 Oily cosmetics such as lipstick are usually pigmented into solid oils such as waxes or oily gels obtained by gelling liquid oils with oil gelling agents such as dextrin fatty acid esters and 12-hydroxystearic acid. And a pigment dispersed (Patent Document 1). Conventionally, the use feeling of oily cosmetics has been improved by examining the types of these solid oil agents, or the types and blending ratios of liquid oil and gelling agent. And if you want to get glossy, polar liquid oils such as glycerides and esters are used, but in this case, the surface of the cosmetics is likely to sweat (liquid oil exudation, sweating) at high temperatures. There are inconveniences, and in use, there are problems such as lack of adhesion to the skin and lips, and easy bleeding. Therefore, in order to increase the stability at high temperatures, it has been attempted to increase the blending amount of wax and oil gelling agent. However, as the blending amount increases, the stretch and lack of smoothness are reduced. In some cases, usability was impaired.
そこで、たとえば特許文献2に示されるように、油性固形化粧料中にポリオキシプロピレンアルキルエーテルを配合することで、ツヤと化粧持ち、高温安定性を改善したものや、特許文献3に示されるように、固形状ジアルキルケトンを配合することで、形状保持性や使用性を向上させたもの、更には特許文献4に示されるように、特定の分子量のポリエチレンワックスを必須成分とする炭化水素系ワックスと油分と、植物系ワックスの含有量を規定することで、良好な使用性と化粧持続性、温度安定性を向上されたものなどが提案されている。一方、イヌリン糖脂肪酸エステルを、揮発性環状シリコーンのゲル構造付与剤に用いることが提案されている(特許文献5)。
しかしながら、上記の特許文献1に示されるようなポリオキシプロピレンアルキルエーテルを配合した油性固形化粧料は、化粧膜のツヤや経時安定性には優れるものの、のびの軽さや膜の均一性は満足できるものではなかった。また特許文献2に示されるような固形状ジアルキルケトンを配合した油性化粧料は、べたつきの無さには優れるが、付着性や経時安定性では満足できるものではなかった。更には、特許文献3に示されるような特定の分子量のポリエチレンワックスを必須成分とする炭化水素系ワックスと油分と特定量の植物系ワックスを配合した油性固形化粧料も同様にのびや滑らかさ、フィット感などでは未だ満足の行くものではなかった。本発明は、このような状況に鑑みなされたもので、ツヤが良く適度で均一な膜厚感を有する化粧膜を形成し、滑らかな使用感と密着性に優れており、潤い感の持続性が高く、温度安定性に優れた油性化粧料を提供することを目的とする。 However, the oily solid cosmetic blended with the polyoxypropylene alkyl ether as shown in the above-mentioned Patent Document 1 is excellent in gloss of the decorative film and stability over time, but can satisfy the lightness of spreading and the uniformity of the film. It was not a thing. In addition, an oily cosmetic containing a solid dialkyl ketone as disclosed in Patent Document 2 is excellent in non-stickiness, but is not satisfactory in terms of adhesion and stability over time. Furthermore, an oily solid cosmetic containing a hydrocarbon wax having a specific molecular weight polyethylene wax as an essential component as shown in Patent Document 3 and an oil component and a specific amount of a vegetable wax is also spread and smooth. The fit was still not satisfactory. The present invention has been made in view of such a situation, and forms a decorative film having a good gloss with an appropriate and uniform film thickness, is excellent in smooth use feeling and adhesiveness, and maintains a moist feeling. An object of the present invention is to provide an oily cosmetic material having a high temperature stability and excellent temperature stability.
本発明者らは、上記課題を解決すべく鋭意研究を重ねた結果、ツヤを有する化粧膜を形成させるべく、エステル結合を有する液状油を配合した油性化粧料において、この液状油を、糖重合度が異なる2種の特定のフラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルでゲル化させた油性化粧料が上記課題を解決することを見出し、本発明を完成した。 As a result of intensive research to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have obtained an oily cosmetic composition containing a liquid oil having an ester bond in order to form a glossy decorative film. The present inventors have found that oily cosmetics gelled with two types of specific fructooligosaccharide fatty acid esters having different degrees can solve the above-mentioned problems.
すなわち本発明は、分子中に少なくとも一個以上のエステル結合を有する液状油(成分(A))を配合した油性化粧料であって、該液状油が、糖平均重合度が10以上60以下で、一単糖単位あたりの脂肪酸エステル化度が2.2以上の高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステル(成分(B))及び糖平均重合度が7以下で、一単糖単位あたりの脂肪酸エステル化度が2.2以上の低重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステル(成分(C))でゲル化されていることを特徴とする油性化粧料である。 That is, the present invention is an oily cosmetic comprising a liquid oil (component (A)) having at least one ester bond in the molecule, the liquid oil having a sugar average polymerization degree of 10 or more and 60 or less, High degree of polymerization fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester (component (B)) having a degree of fatty acid esterification per monosaccharide unit of 2.2 or more and an average degree of sugar polymerization of 7 or less, and the degree of fatty acid esterification per monosaccharide unit It is an oily cosmetic characterized by being gelled with a fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester (component (C)) having a low polymerization degree of 2.2 or higher.
また、上記成分(B)の高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルと上記成分(C)の低重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルとの配合比は質量比で(B)/(C)=0.25〜4が好ましい。また、上記成分(B)の糖平均重合度が10以上60以下で一単糖単位あたりの脂肪酸エステル化度が2.2以上の高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルは、その総アシル基の60モル%以上が、ヘキサデカノイル基、オクタデカノイル基、エイコサノイル基又はドコサノイル基から選ばれる1種又は2種以上であるフラクトオリゴ脂肪酸エステルであることが好ましい。また、上記成分(A)の分子中に少なくとも一個以上のエステル結合を有する液状油は、有機概念図におけるIOB値が0.3以上であるものが好ましい。 Moreover, the blending ratio of the high polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of the said component (B) and the low polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of the said component (C) is (B) / (C) = 0.25-4 by mass ratio. Is preferred. The high-polymerized fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester having a sugar average polymerization degree of 10 to 60 and a fatty acid esterification degree per monosaccharide unit of 2.2 or more is 60 mol of the total acyl group. % Or more is preferably a fructo-oligo fatty acid ester of one or more selected from a hexadecanoyl group, an octadecanoyl group, an eicosanoyl group or a docosanoyl group. Further, the liquid oil having at least one ester bond in the molecule of the component (A) preferably has an IOB value of 0.3 or more in the organic conceptual diagram.
本発明の油性化粧料は、分子中に少なくとも一個以上のエステル結合を有する液体油を、糖平均重合度が10以上60以下で一単糖単位あたりの脂肪酸エステル化度が2.2以上の高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルと、糖平均重合度が7以下で一単糖単位あたりの脂肪酸エステル化度が2.2以上の低重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルとでゲル化したゲル組成物を含むため、ツヤが良く適度で均一な膜厚感を有する化粧膜を形成し、滑らかな使用感と密着性に優れており、潤い感の持続性が高く、温度安定性に優れている。とりわけ分子中に少なくとも一個以上のエステル結合を有する液体油としてIOB値が0.3以上の液体油を使用した場合は、ゲル化効果がよく、上記の効果が一層向上する。 The oily cosmetic composition of the present invention is a liquid oil having at least one ester bond in the molecule, having a high sugar average degree of polymerization of 10 to 60 and a fatty acid esterification degree per monosaccharide unit of 2.2 or more. Because it contains a gel composition gelled with a degree of polymerization fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester and a low degree of fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester having a sugar average degree of polymerization of 7 or less and a degree of fatty acid esterification per monosaccharide unit of 2.2 or more It forms a decorative film with a good gloss and an appropriate and uniform film thickness, is excellent in smooth use feeling and adhesion, has a high moisturizing feeling, and has excellent temperature stability. In particular, when a liquid oil having an IOB value of 0.3 or more is used as a liquid oil having at least one ester bond in the molecule, the gelation effect is good, and the above effect is further improved.
本発明を更に詳しく説明する。本発明の成分(A)の分子中に少なくとも一個以上のエステル結合を有する液状油は、エステル油やグリセライド油が挙げられ、化粧料一般に使用されるものが使用できる。この成分(A)の液状油は、成分(B)の高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルと成分(C)の低重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルとでのゲル化によって、ツヤのあり適度で均一な膜厚感を有する化粧膜を形成し、また滑らかな使用感と密着性に優れ、潤い感の持続性が高く、温度安定性に優れた油性化粧料を構成する。 The present invention will be described in more detail. Examples of the liquid oil having at least one ester bond in the molecule of the component (A) of the present invention include ester oils and glyceride oils, and those commonly used in cosmetics can be used. This component (A) liquid oil is a glossy, moderate and uniform film by gelation of the high polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of component (B) and the low polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of component (C). A thick cosmetic film is formed, and an oily cosmetic with excellent smooth use feeling and adhesion, high moisturizing durability and excellent temperature stability is formed.
上記のエステル油としては、アジピン酸ジイソブチル、アジピン酸−2−ヘキシルデシル、アジピン酸−ジ−ヘプチルウンデシル、モノイソステアリン酸N−アルキルグリコール、ジ−2−エチルへキサン酸エチレングリコール、ジ−2−エチルへキサン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、オレイン酸オレイル、オレイン酸オクチルドデシル、オレイン酸デシル、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、クエン酸トリエチル、コハク酸−2−エチルヘキシル、セバシン酸ジイソプロピル、セバシン酸ジ−2−エチルヘキシル、炭酸ジアルキル、パルミチン酸イソプロピル、パルミチン酸−2−エチルヘキシル、パルミチン酸−2−ヘキシルデシル、ミリスチン酸−2−ヘプチルウンデシル、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、ミリスチン酸−2−オクチルドデシル、ミリスチン酸−2−ヘキシルデシル、ジメチルオクタン酸ヘキシルデシル、ラウリン酸ヘキシル、N−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸−2−オクチルドデシルエステル、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル等が挙げられる。 Examples of the ester oil include diisobutyl adipate, 2-hexyldecyl adipate, di-heptylundecyl adipate, N-alkyl glycol monoisostearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, di-2 -Neopentyl glycol ethylhexanoate, oleyl oleate, octyldodecyl oleate, decyl oleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, triethyl citrate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diisopropyl sebacate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate , Dialkyl carbonate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl decyl palmitate, 2-heptyl undecyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyl myristate Decyl, myristic acid-2-hexyl decyl dimethyl octanoate hexyl decyl, hexyl laurate, N- lauroyl -L- glutamic acid-2-octyldodecyl ester, and diisostearyl malate, and the like.
グリセライド油としては、アセトグリセリル、トリイソオクタン酸グリセリル、トリイソステアリン酸グリセリル、トリイソパルミチン酸グリセリル、トリ−2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリル、モノステアリン酸グリセリル、ジ−2−ヘプチルウンデカン酸グリセリル、トリミリスチン酸グリセリル、テトライソステアリン酸ジグリセリル、トリイソステアン酸ジグリセリル、ジイソステアリン酸ジグリセリル等が挙げられる。 Examples of glyceride oils include acetoglyceryl, glyceryl triisooctanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl triisopalmitate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl di-2-heptylundecanoate, and trimyristic acid Examples thereof include glyceryl, diglyceryl tetraisostearate, diglyceryl triisostearate, and diglyceryl diisostearate.
成分(A)の分子中に少なくとも一個以上のエステル結合を有する液状油は、より高いツヤや潤い感を付与するには、そのIOB値が0.3以上の極性の高い液状油が好ましい。ここで言うIOB値(Inorganic Organic Balance)とは、藤田穆の有機概念図(「化学の領域」、11‐10、719−729頁参照)によるもので、無機性及び有機性の価の比である。これは有機化合物の極性の指標であり、この数値が高くなるほど極性が高くなる。本発明に用いられる成分(A)のIOB値が0.3以上の分子中に少なくとも一個以上のエステル結合を有する液状油としては、具体的には、例えば、ジ−2−エチルヘキサン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、モノカプリン酸プロピレングリコール、ジカプリン酸プロピレングリコール、トリ2−エチルヘキサン酸トリメチロールプロパン、セバシン酸ジエチル、アジピン酸ジイソプロピル、セバシン酸ジイソプロピル、トリ2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリル、トリ(カプリル・カプリン酸)グリセリン、テトラ2−エチルヘキサン酸ペンタエリスリット、クエン酸トリ2−エチルヘキシル、乳酸オクチルドデシル、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、モノイソステアリン酸ジグリセリル、ジイソステアリン酸ジグリセリル、セスキオレイン酸ソルビタン等が挙げられ、これらの一種又は二種以上を適宜選択して用いることができる。 The liquid oil having at least one ester bond in the component (A) molecule is preferably a highly polar liquid oil having an IOB value of 0.3 or more in order to give a higher gloss or moist feeling. The IOB value (Inorganic Organic Balance) referred to here is based on the organic concept diagram of Satoshi Fujita (see “Chemistry Domain”, pages 11-10 and 719-729). is there. This is an indicator of the polarity of the organic compound, and the higher this value, the higher the polarity. Specific examples of the liquid oil having at least one ester bond in the molecule having an IOB value of 0.3 or more used in the present invention (A) include, for example, neopentyl di-2-ethylhexanoate. Glycol, propylene glycol monocaprate, propylene glycol dicaprate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, tri (capryl / capric acid) Glycerin, tetra-2-ethylhexanoic acid pentaerythritol, tri-2-ethylhexyl citrate, octyldodecyl lactate, diisostearyl malate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, diglyceryl diisostearate, sorbita sesquioleate Etc., and may be selected those one or two or more appropriately.
本発明の成分(A)の配合量は特に限定されないが、油性化粧料中の5〜90質量%が好ましく、10〜70質量%が特に好ましい。5質量%未満では、充分なツヤや潤い感が得られず、90質量%を超えると適度で均一な膜厚感や密着感が得られず好ましくない。 Although the compounding quantity of the component (A) of this invention is not specifically limited, 5-90 mass% in oily cosmetics is preferable, and 10-70 mass% is especially preferable. If the amount is less than 5% by mass, sufficient gloss and moist feeling cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 90% by mass, an appropriate and uniform film thickness feeling and adhesion cannot be obtained.
成分(B)は、糖平均重合度が10以上60以下で、一単糖単位あたりの脂肪酸エステル化度が2.2以上の高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルである。フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルは公知である(特開平3−197409号公報、特開2002−193732号公報)。成分(B)のフラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルの原料であるフラクトオリゴ糖は、フルクトースを主要構成糖とするオリゴ糖である。フラクトオリゴ糖はいろいろな植物、例えばキク科、イネ科およびユリ科の根、茎、葉、種子等に含まれており、その構造は主鎖の結合様式が2→1結合のものと、2→6結合のものの2種類がある。2→1結合のものとしてはイヌリン、アスパラゴシン、アスホデラン、トリチカン、クリテザン、バクモンドウ由来のフラクトオリゴ糖等が挙げられ、2→6結合のものとしてはフレアン、レバン、セラカン等が挙げられる。いずれも使用できる。これらのフラクトオリゴ糖の中でも、とりわけイヌリンが物性面からも供給面からも好ましい。 Component (B) is a high-polymerization fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester having an average sugar polymerization degree of 10 or more and 60 or less and a fatty acid esterification degree per monosaccharide unit of 2.2 or more. Fructooligosaccharide fatty acid esters are known (Japanese Patent Laid-Open Nos. 3-197409 and 2002-193732). The fructo-oligosaccharide which is a raw material of the fructo-oligosaccharide fatty acid ester of the component (B) is an oligosaccharide having fructose as a main constituent sugar. Fructooligosaccharides are contained in various plants such as roots, stems, leaves, and seeds of Asteraceae, Gramineae and Liliaceae, and their structures are such that the main chain has a 2 → 1 bond and 2 → There are two types of 6 bonds. Examples of the 2 → 1 bond include fructooligosaccharides derived from inulin, asparagosin, asphodelan, triticane, criticzan, and Bacmondo, and examples of the 2 → 6 bond include Flaen, Levan, and Ceracan. Either can be used. Among these fructooligosaccharides, inulin is particularly preferable from the viewpoint of physical properties and supply.
フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルは、フラクトオリゴ糖の水酸基の水素原子をアシル基RCO−(ここでRは炭素数7〜32の直鎖又は分岐のアルキル基又はアルケニル基を示す)で置換したものである。すなわち、このフラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルは、フラクトオリゴ糖に式RCOOH(ここでRは前記と同じ)で表される脂肪酸またはその反応性誘導体、具体的には酸ハライド、酸無水物等を反応させることにより製造される。この反応は、従来公知の方法により行なうことができる。例えば、フラクトオリゴ糖をジメチルホルムアミド及びピリジン中に分散させ、これに脂肪酸ハライド又は脂肪酸無水物を加え、60℃前後で約2時間反応させることにより得ることができる。 The fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester is obtained by replacing the hydrogen atom of the hydroxyl group of fructooligosaccharide with an acyl group RCO- (wherein R represents a linear or branched alkyl group or alkenyl group having 7 to 32 carbon atoms). That is, this fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester is obtained by reacting a fructooligosaccharide with a fatty acid represented by the formula RCOOH (where R is the same as above) or a reactive derivative thereof, specifically an acid halide, an acid anhydride, or the like. Manufactured. This reaction can be performed by a conventionally known method. For example, it can be obtained by dispersing fructooligosaccharide in dimethylformamide and pyridine, adding a fatty acid halide or a fatty acid anhydride thereto, and reacting at about 60 ° C. for about 2 hours.
そして、本発明の成分(B)では、一単糖単位あたりの脂肪酸エステル化度が2.2以上、すなわち一単糖単位当たり平均2.2個以上の水酸基が置換されたものを用いる。置換度が2.2以上であると、成分(A)の液状油を含有する油性基材への溶解性がよいためゲル構造をよりつくりやすいものとなり、安定性がより向上して分離などが起きにくい。一方、置換度が2.2より低いと、油性基材への溶解性が低いためゲル構造をつくりにくく、安定性の確保が困難な場合がある。 In the component (B) of the present invention, the fatty acid esterification degree per monosaccharide unit is 2.2 or more, that is, an average of 2.2 or more hydroxyl groups are substituted per monosaccharide unit. When the degree of substitution is 2.2 or more, the gel structure is more easily formed because the solubility of the component (A) in the oil-based base material containing the liquid oil is better, and the stability is further improved and the separation is improved. It's hard to get up. On the other hand, if the degree of substitution is lower than 2.2, it is difficult to form a gel structure due to low solubility in an oily substrate, and it may be difficult to ensure stability.
また、本発明の成分(B)の高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルにおいて、その総アシル基の60モル%以上が、ヘキサデカノイル基、オクタデカノイル基、エイコサノイル基又はドコサノイル基から選ばれる1種又は2種以上であることが好ましい。これらのアシル基の総量が60モル%以上であれば、本発明のゲル組成物や化粧料の安定性がより向上する。アシル基の炭素鎖長に関し、ヘキサデカノイル基より炭素数の少ないアシル基ではゲル硬度の付与が充分でない場合があり、反対にドコサノイル基より炭素数の多いアシル基では使用時に重い感触を伴ったり、経時的にゲル化剤が析出する場合がある。 In addition, in the high polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of the component (B) of the present invention, at least 60 mol% of the total acyl groups are selected from hexadecanoyl group, octadecanoyl group, eicosanoyl group or docosanoyl group. Or it is preferable that they are 2 or more types. If the total amount of these acyl groups is 60 mol% or more, the stability of the gel composition or cosmetic of the present invention is further improved. With regard to the carbon chain length of the acyl group, the acyl group having a carbon number smaller than that of the hexadecanoyl group may not give sufficient gel hardness, and conversely, the acyl group having a carbon number greater than that of the docosanoyl group may be heavy when used. The gelling agent may precipitate over time.
総アシル基の60モル%以上がヘキサデカノイル基、オクタデカノイル基、エイコサノイル基及びドコサノイル基から選ばれる1種又は2種以上であるフラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルにおいて、他のアシル基としてはアセチル基、プロピオニル基、ブチリル基、イソブチリル基、バレリル基、イソバレリル基、ピバロイル基、ヘキサノイル基、オクタノイル基、デカノイル基、ドデカノイル基、テトラデカノイル基、テトラコサノイル基、ヘキサコサノイル基、オクタコサノイル基、トリアコンタノイル基、オレオイル基、ベンゾイル基、ナフトイル基等を例示することができる。 In the fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester in which 60 mol% or more of the total acyl groups is one or more selected from a hexadecanoyl group, an octadecanoyl group, an eicosanoyl group and a docosanoyl group, the other acyl groups include acetyl groups, Propionyl, butyryl, isobutyryl, valeryl, isovaleryl, pivaloyl, hexanoyl, octanoyl, decanoyl, dodecanoyl, tetradecanoyl, tetracosanoyl, hexacosanoyl, octacosanoyl, triacontanoyl, ole An oil group, a benzoyl group, a naphthoyl group, etc. can be illustrated.
なお、本発明の油性化粧料に、安定性の確保と同時にゲルの収縮や亀裂を抑制したり、柔らかいゲル状にしたい場合には、成分(B)の高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルのアシル基において、分岐炭化水素骨格を有するアシル基を含有させれば良い。この場合、分岐炭化水素骨格を有するアシル基は炭素数22以下であることが好ましく、炭素数18以下が特に好ましい。好適に使用される分岐炭化水素骨格を有するアシル基を例示すると、イソステアロイル基、イソヘキサデカノイル基、イソデカノイル基、イソオクタノイル基等を挙げることができる。 In the oily cosmetic of the present invention, when it is desired to suppress the shrinkage and cracking of the gel at the same time as ensuring the stability, or to make the gel soft, the acyl group of the fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester having a high degree of polymerization of the component (B) In this case, an acyl group having a branched hydrocarbon skeleton may be contained. In this case, the acyl group having a branched hydrocarbon skeleton preferably has 22 or less carbon atoms, and particularly preferably 18 or less carbon atoms. Examples of the acyl group having a branched hydrocarbon skeleton that is preferably used include an isostearoyl group, an isohexadecanoyl group, an isodecanoyl group, and an isooctanoyl group.
本発明の成分(C)は、糖平均重合度が7以下で、一単糖単位あたりの脂肪酸エステル化度が2.2以上の低重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルである。成分(C)の低重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルは、糖平均重合度が7以下のフラクトオリゴ糖を原料とし、前述の成分(B)の高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルと同様にして、フラクトオリゴ糖の水酸基の水素原子を、アシル基RCO−(ここでRは炭素数7〜32の直鎖又は分岐のアルキル基又はアルケニル基を示す)で、一単糖単位当たり平均2.2個以上置換させたフラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルである。置換度が2.2以上であると、成分(A)の液状油を含有する油性基材への溶解性がよいためゲル構造をよりつくりやすいものとなり、安定性がより向上して分離などが起きにくい。一方、置換度が2.2より低いと、油性基材への溶解性が低いためゲル構造をつくりにくく、安定性の確保が困難な場合がある。成分(C)の低重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルは、市販品として、例えばレオパールISK(千葉製粉社製)が挙げられる。 Component (C) of the present invention is a low-polymerization fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester having a sugar average polymerization degree of 7 or less and a fatty acid esterification degree per monosaccharide unit of 2.2 or more. The low-polymerization fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of component (C) is made from a fructooligosaccharide having an average sugar polymerization degree of 7 or less, and is the same as the high-polymerization fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of component (B) described above. The hydrogen atom of the hydroxyl group was substituted with an acyl group RCO- (where R represents a straight-chain or branched alkyl group or alkenyl group having 7 to 32 carbon atoms) on average 2.2 or more per monosaccharide unit. Fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester. When the degree of substitution is 2.2 or more, the gel structure is more easily formed because the solubility of the component (A) in the oil-based base material containing the liquid oil is better, and the stability is further improved and the separation is improved. It's hard to get up. On the other hand, if the degree of substitution is lower than 2.2, it is difficult to form a gel structure due to low solubility in an oily substrate, and it may be difficult to ensure stability. Examples of the low-polymerization fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of component (C) include Leopard ISK (manufactured by Chiba Flour Mills) as a commercial product.
本発明で用いる成分(B)の高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルは、その糖平均重合度が10以上60以下である。糖平均重合度の測定法は、例えばL. De Leenheer, Starch 46(5),p193-196(1994)、Carbohydrates as Organic Raw Materials,Vol.III,p67-92(1996)に記載されている。糖平均重合度を10以上60以下の範囲のものは、成分(A)の分子中に少なくとも一個以上のエステル結合を有する液状油に対し高いゲル化能力を発揮し、高いゲル硬度を付与できる。しかしながら、後述の実験例、比較実験例で示すように、それ単独では、殊にIOB値が高い成分(A)の液状油に対して、十分なゲル化効果を示さない。ところが、この成分(B)の糖平均重合度が10以上60以下の高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルと成分(C)の糖平均重合度が7以下の低重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルとを併用すると、殊にIOB値が高い成分(A)の液状油に対して、ゲル化効果が一段と向上し、もって、膜厚感、ツヤ感、温度安定性の良い化粧膜を形成し得、滑らかさに優れ、べたつきの無い油性化粧料が得られる。また、IOB値が低い成分(A)の液状油に対しても、併用することによって、ゲル化効果はともかく、膜厚感、ツヤ感、温度安定性の良い化粧膜を形成し得、滑らかさに優れ、べたつきの無い油性化粧料が得られる。 The high polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of the component (B) used in the present invention has a sugar average polymerization degree of 10 or more and 60 or less. The method for measuring the average degree of polymerization of the sugar is described in, for example, L. De Leenheer, Starch 46 (5), p193-196 (1994), Carbohydrates as Organic Raw Materials, Vol.III, p67-92 (1996). Those having an average sugar polymerization degree of 10 or more and 60 or less can exhibit high gelling ability to a liquid oil having at least one ester bond in the molecule of the component (A) and can impart high gel hardness. However, as shown in the experimental examples and comparative experimental examples to be described later, by itself, a sufficient gelling effect is not exhibited particularly for the liquid oil of the component (A) having a high IOB value. However, when a high polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester having a sugar average polymerization degree of 10 to 60 and this component (B) is combined with a low polymerization fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester having a sugar average polymerization degree of 7 or less. In particular, the gelling effect is further improved for the liquid oil of component (A) having a high IOB value, so that a decorative film having a good film thickness, gloss and temperature stability can be formed, and the smoothness can be achieved. An oily cosmetic with excellent and non-stickiness can be obtained. Moreover, by using together with the liquid oil of component (A) having a low IOB value, it is possible to form a cosmetic film having a good film thickness, gloss, and temperature stability, regardless of the gelation effect, and smoothness. And an oily cosmetic without stickiness is obtained.
本発明の油性化粧料において、成分(A)の高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルは、必要に応じて1種又は2種以上を組み合わせて用いることができ、その配合量は、油性化粧料中の0.1〜30質量%が好ましく、0.5〜20質量%が特に好ましい。0.1質量%未満では、油性化粧料の安定性、特に高温での安定性に問題がある。また30質量%を超えると硬くなり、塗布時の肌や口唇へのつきやのびが重くなり好ましくない。また、本発明の成分(C)の低重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルは、必要に応じて一種又は二種以上を組み合わせて用いることができ、その配合量は、油性化粧料中の0.1〜30質量%が好ましく、0.5〜20質量%が特に好ましい。そして、成分(B)の高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルと成分(C)の低重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルとの配合比は質量比で(B)/(C)=0.25〜4が好ましく、0.5〜2が特に好ましい。この範囲内にすると、成分(A)の液状油、殊にIOB値が0.3以上の極性油を効果的にゲル化でき、特に経時安定性に優れた油性化粧料を得ることができる。0.25未満や4を超えると充分な経時安定性や使用性を確保できない。 In the oily cosmetic of the present invention, the high polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of the component (A) can be used alone or in combination of two or more as required. 0.1-30 mass% is preferable and 0.5-20 mass% is especially preferable. If it is less than 0.1% by mass, there is a problem in the stability of the oily cosmetic, particularly at a high temperature. On the other hand, if it exceeds 30% by mass, it becomes hard and unfavorable because the skin and lips are heavy and spread during application. Moreover, the low polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of the component (C) of the present invention can be used singly or in combination of two or more as required, and the blending amount thereof is 0.1 to 0.1 in the oily cosmetic. 30 mass% is preferable and 0.5-20 mass% is especially preferable. The blending ratio of the high-polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of the component (B) and the low-polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of the component (C) is preferably (B) / (C) = 0.25-4 by mass ratio. 0.5 to 2 is particularly preferable. Within this range, the liquid oil of component (A), particularly polar oil having an IOB value of 0.3 or more can be effectively gelled, and an oily cosmetic material having particularly excellent temporal stability can be obtained. If it is less than 0.25 or exceeds 4, sufficient stability over time and usability cannot be ensured.
本発明の油性化粧料では、成分(A)の液状油、成分(B)の高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステル及び成分(C)の低重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルを必須成分とするが、それら以外に、通常、化粧品で使用される液状や固形状の油性成分、界面活性剤、アルコール類、保湿剤、成分(B)、(C)以外のゲル化剤及び増粘剤、粉体、紫外線吸収剤、防腐剤、抗菌剤、酸化防止剤、美肌用成分(美白剤、細胞賦活剤、抗炎症剤、血行促進剤、皮膚収斂剤、抗脂漏剤等)、ビタミン類、アミノ酸類、核酸等を配合することができる。 In the oily cosmetic of the present invention, the liquid oil of component (A), the high-polymerization fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of component (B) and the low-polymerization fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of component (C) are essential components, but other than these In addition, liquid and solid oily components, surfactants, alcohols, humectants, gelling agents and thickeners other than components (B) and (C), powders, UV absorption Agents, preservatives, antibacterial agents, antioxidants, skin beautifying agents (whitening agents, cell activators, anti-inflammatory agents, blood circulation promoters, skin astringents, antiseborrheic agents, etc.), vitamins, amino acids, nucleic acids, etc. Can be blended.
上記の液状の油性成分は、具体的には天然動植物油及び半合成油としては、アボガド油、アマニ油、アーモンド油、オリーブ油、カヤ油、肝油、キョウニン油、小麦胚芽油、ゴマ油、コメ胚芽油、コメヌカ油、サザンカ油、サフラワー油、シナギリ油、シナモン油、タートル油、大豆油、茶実油、ツバキ油、月見草油、トウモロコシ油、ナタネ油、日本キリ油、胚芽油、パーシック油、パーム油、レッドパーム油、パーム核油、ヒマシ油、ヒマワリ油、ブドウ油、ホホバ油、マカデミアナッツ油、綿実油、ヤシ油、トリヤシ油脂肪酸グリセライド、落花生油、液状ラノリン、還元ラノリン、ラノリンアルコール、酢酸ラノリン、ラノリン脂肪酸イソプロピル、POEラノリンアルコールエーテル、POEラノリンアルコールアセテート、ラノリン脂肪酸ポリエチレングリコール、POE水素添加ラノリンアルコールエーテル、卵黄油等が挙げられる。 The above-mentioned liquid oily components include, specifically, natural animal and vegetable oils and semi-synthetic oils such as avocado oil, linseed oil, almond oil, olive oil, kaya oil, liver oil, kyounin oil, wheat germ oil, sesame oil, rice germ oil , Rice bran oil, sasanqua oil, safflower oil, cinnamon oil, cinnamon oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, tea seed oil, camellia oil, evening primrose oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, Japanese kiri oil, germ oil, persic oil, palm Oil, red palm oil, palm kernel oil, castor oil, sunflower oil, grape oil, jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, palm oil fatty acid glyceride, peanut oil, liquid lanolin, reduced lanolin, lanolin alcohol, lanolin acetate, Lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, POE lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate, lano Emissions fatty acid polyethylene glycol, POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether, yolk oil, and the like.
炭化水素油としては、スクワラン、スクワレン、軽質流動イソパラフィン、流動パラフィン等が挙げられる。エステル油としては、アジピン酸ジイソブチル、アジピン酸−2−ヘキシルデシル、アジピン酸−ジ−ヘプチルウンデシル、モノイソステアリン酸N−アルキルグリコール、ジ−2−エチルへキサン酸エチレングリコール、ジ−2−エチルへキサン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、オレイン酸オレイル、オレイン酸オクチルドデシル、オレイン酸デシル、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、クエン酸トリエチル、コハク酸−2−エチルヘキシル、セバシン酸ジイソプロピル、セバシン酸ジ−2−エチルヘキシル、炭酸ジアルキル、パルミチン酸イソプロピル、パルミチン酸−2−エチルヘキシル、パルミチン酸−2−ヘキシルデシル、ミリスチン酸−2−ヘプチルウンデシル、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、ミリスチン酸−2−オクチルドデシル、ミリスチン酸−2−ヘキシルデシル、ジメチルオクタン酸ヘキシルデシル、ラウリン酸ヘキシル、N−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸−2−オクチルドデシルエステル、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル等が挙げられる。 Examples of the hydrocarbon oil include squalane, squalene, light liquid isoparaffin, and liquid paraffin. Ester oils include diisobutyl adipate, 2-hexyldecyl adipate, di-heptylundecyl adipate, N-alkyl glycol monoisostearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, di-2-ethyl Neopentyl glycol hexanoate, oleyl oleate, octyldodecyl oleate, decyl oleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, triethyl citrate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diisopropyl sebacate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, carbonic acid Dialkyl, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl decyl palmitate, 2-heptyl undecyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyl dodecyl myristate , Myristic acid-2-hexyl decyl dimethyl octanoate hexyl decyl, hexyl laurate, N- lauroyl -L- glutamic acid-2-octyldodecyl ester, and diisostearyl malate, and the like.
グリセライド油としては、アセトグリセライド、トリイソオクタン酸グリセライド、トリイソステアリン酸グリセライド、トリイソパルミチン酸グリセライド、トリ−2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセライド、モノステアリン酸グリセライド、ジ−2−ヘプチルウンデカン酸グリセライド、トリミリスチン酸グリセライド、ジグリセリンテトライソステアリル、ジグリセリントリイソステアリル、ジグリセリンジイソステアリル等が挙げられる。シリコーン油としては、揮発性オルガノポリシロキサン、ジメチルポリシロキサン、メチルハイドロジェンポリシロキサン、テトラメチルテトラハイドロジェンシクロテトラシロキサン、アルキル変性シリコーン等が挙げられる。 Examples of glyceride oil include acetoglyceride, triisooctanoic acid glyceride, triisostearic acid glyceride, triisopalmitic acid glyceride, tri-2-ethylhexanoic acid glyceride, monostearic acid glyceride, di-2-heptylundecanoic acid glyceride, and trimyristic acid. Examples thereof include glyceride, diglycerin tetraisostearyl, diglycerin triisostearyl, and diglycerin diisostearyl. Examples of the silicone oil include volatile organopolysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, tetramethyltetrahydrogencyclotetrasiloxane, and alkyl-modified silicone.
固形状の油性成分は、具体的には、カルナウバロウ、キャンデリラロウ、ミツロウ、ラノリン等の天然ロウ類、オゾケライト、セレシン、パラフィンワックス、マイクロクリスタリンワックス等の鉱物系ワックス、ポリエチレンワックス、フィッシャートロプシュワックス、エチレン・プロピレンコポリマー等の合成ワックス、セタノール、ステアリルアルコール、ベヘニルアルコール等の高級アルコール、ステアリン酸、パルミチン酸、ベヘン酸等の高級脂肪酸、カカオ脂、モクロウなどの油脂類、キャンデリラレジン等の樹脂類、硬化ひまし油、12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸、ショ糖脂肪酸エステル、デンプン脂肪酸エステル、ロジン酸ペンタエリスリットエステル、コレステロール脂肪酸エステル、N−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸ジ(コレステリル・ベヘニル・オクチルドデシル)等のエステル、ステアリル変性シリコーン、ベヘニル変性シリコーン等のシリコーンワックスが挙げられる。 Specifically, solid oily components include natural waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, beeswax, lanolin, mineral waxes such as ozokerite, ceresin, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, Synthetic waxes such as ethylene / propylene copolymers, higher alcohols such as cetanol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol, higher fatty acids such as stearic acid, palmitic acid, and behenic acid, fats and oils such as cocoa butter and owl, resins such as candelilla resin, Hydrogenated castor oil, 12-hydroxystearic acid, sucrose fatty acid ester, starch fatty acid ester, rosin acid pentaerythritol ester, cholesterol fatty acid ester, N-lauroyl-L-glutamine Esters such as di (cholesteryl behenyl octyldodecyl), stearyl modified silicones, and silicone waxes such as behenyl-modified silicone.
界面活性剤としては通常化粧料に使用されるものであれば特に制限はなく、何れのものも使用することができる。界面活性剤はアニオン性界面活性剤、カチオン性界面活性剤、非イオン性界面活性剤、両性界面活性剤等が例示されるが、これらを必要に応じて1種又は2種以上を組み合わせて用いることができる。 The surfactant is not particularly limited as long as it is usually used in cosmetics, and any surfactant can be used. Examples of the surfactant include an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, and an amphoteric surfactant. These may be used alone or in combination of two or more as required. be able to.
アニオン性界面活性剤として、具体的にはステアリン酸ナトリウムやパルミチン酸トリエタノールアミン等の脂肪酸セッケン、アルキルエーテルカルボン酸及びその塩、アミノ酸と脂肪酸の縮合等のカルボン酸塩、アルキルスルホン酸、アルケンスルホン酸塩、脂肪酸エステルのスルホン酸塩、脂肪酸アミドのスルホン酸塩、アルキルスルホン酸塩とそのホルマリン縮合物のスルホン酸塩、アルキル硫酸エステル塩、第二級高級アルコール硫酸エステル塩、アルキル及びアリルエーテル硫酸エステル塩、脂肪酸エステル硫酸エステル塩、脂肪酸アルキロールアミドの硫酸エステル塩、ポリオキシエチレンアルキル硫酸エステル塩、ロート油等の硫酸エステル塩類、アルキルリン酸塩、エーテルリン酸塩、アルキルアリルエーテルリン酸塩、アミドリン酸塩、N−アシルアミノ酸系活性剤等が挙げられる。 Specific examples of anionic surfactants include fatty acid soaps such as sodium stearate and triethanolamine palmitate, alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, carboxylates such as condensation of amino acids and fatty acids, alkyl sulfonic acids, and alkene sulfones. Acid salts, sulfonates of fatty acid esters, sulfonates of fatty acid amides, sulfonates of alkyl sulfonates and their formalin condensates, alkyl sulfate esters, secondary higher alcohol sulfates, alkyl and allyl ether sulfates Ester salts, fatty acid ester sulfates, fatty acid alkylolamide sulfates, polyoxyethylene alkyl sulfates, sulfate salts such as funnel oil, alkyl phosphates, ether phosphates, alkyl allyl ether phosphates A Dorin salts, such as N- acylamino acid-based active agents.
カチオン性界面活性剤としては長鎖アルキルトリメチルアンモニウム塩、ジ長鎖アルキルジメチルアンモニウム塩、長鎖アルキルジメチルベンジルアンモニウム塩、ジポリオキシエチレンアルキルメチルアンモニウム塩、ジポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテルジメチルアンモニウム塩、ポリオキシプロピレンメチルジエチルアンモニウム塩等のアルキル4級アンモニウム塩や芳香族4級アンモニウム塩をはじめ、アルキルピリジニウム塩等のピリジニウム塩、アルキルジヒドロキシエチルイミダゾリン塩等のイミダゾリン塩、N−アシル塩基性アミノ酸低級アルキルエステル塩、そしてアルキルアミン塩、ポリアミン、アミノアルコール脂肪酸誘導体等のアミン塩等が挙げられる。 Cationic surfactants include long chain alkyltrimethylammonium salts, dilong chain alkyldimethylammonium salts, long chain alkyldimethylbenzylammonium salts, dipolyoxyethylene alkylmethylammonium salts, dipolyoxyethylene alkyl ether dimethylammonium salts, poly Alkyl quaternary ammonium salts such as oxypropylene methyl diethyl ammonium salt and aromatic quaternary ammonium salts, pyridinium salts such as alkyl pyridinium salts, imidazoline salts such as alkyl dihydroxyethyl imidazoline salts, N-acyl basic amino acid lower alkyl esters And amine salts such as alkylamine salts, polyamines, amino alcohol fatty acid derivatives and the like.
非イオン性界面活性剤としてはソルビタン脂肪酸エステル、グリセリン脂肪酸エステル、ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステル、プロピレングリコール脂肪酸エステル、ポリエチレングリコール脂肪酸エステル、ショ糖脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテル、ポリオキシプロピレンアルキルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルフェニルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレン脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレンソルビタン脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレンソルビトール脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレングリセリン脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレンプロピレングリコール脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレンヒマシ油、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレンフィトスタノールエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンフィトステロールエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンコレスタノールエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンコレステリルエーテル、ポリオキシアルキレン変性オルガノポリシロキサン、ポリオキシアルキレン・アルキル共変性オルガノポリシロキサン、アルカノールアミド、糖エーテル、糖アミド等が挙げられる。 Nonionic surfactants include sorbitan fatty acid ester, glycerin fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, propylene glycol fatty acid ester, polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxypropylene alkyl ether, polyoxy Ethylene alkyl phenyl ether, polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene propylene glycol fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene castor oil, polyoxyethylene cured Castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene N-phytostanol ether, polyoxyethylene phytosterol ether, polyoxyethylene cholestanol ether, polyoxyethylene cholesteryl ether, polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane, polyoxyalkylene / alkyl co-modified organopolysiloxane, alkanolamide, sugar ether, sugar Examples include amides.
両性界面活性剤としてはアルキルジメチルアミノ酢酸ベタイン、脂肪酸アミドプロピルジメチルアミノ酢酸ベタイン、アルキルジヒドロキシエチルアミノ酢酸ベタイン等のカルボベタイン型両性界面活性剤、アルキルスルホベタイン等のスルホベタイン型両性界面活性剤、N−脂肪酸アシル−N−カルボキシメチル−N−ヒドロキシエチルエチレンジアミン塩、N−脂肪酸アシル−N−カルボキシメトキシエチル−N−カルボキシメチルエチレンジアミン二塩等のアミドアミン型(イミダゾリン型)両性界面活性剤、N−[3−アルキルオキシ−2−ヒドロキシプロピル]アルギニン塩等のアミノ酸型両性界面活性剤、アルキルイミノジカルボン酸塩型両性界面活性剤等が挙げられる。 Examples of amphoteric surfactants include carbobetaine-type amphoteric surfactants such as alkyldimethylaminoacetic acid betaine, fatty acid amidopropyldimethylaminoacetic acid betaine, alkyldihydroxyethylaminoacetic acid betaine, and sulfobetaine-type amphoteric surfactants such as alkylsulfobetaine, N -Amidoamine type (imidazoline type) amphoteric surfactants such as fatty acid acyl-N-carboxymethyl-N-hydroxyethylethylenediamine salt, N-fatty acid acyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethylethylenediamine di-salt, N- [ Amino acid type amphoteric surfactants such as 3-alkyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl] arginine salt, and alkyliminodicarboxylate type amphoteric surfactants.
アルコール類として、エタノール、イソプロパノール等の低級アルコール、グリセリン、ジグリセリン、ポリグリセリン、ジエチレングリコール、ポリエチレングリコール、プロピレングリコール、ジプロピレングリコール、ポリプロピレングリコール、1,3−ブチレングリコール、エリスリトール等の多価アルコール、ソルビトール、マルトース、キシリトール、マルチトール等の糖アルコール、コレステロール、シトステロール、フィトステロール、ラノステロール等のステロール類等が例示される。 As alcohols, lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, erythritol and other polyhydric alcohols, sorbitol And sugar alcohols such as maltose, xylitol and maltitol, and sterols such as cholesterol, sitosterol, phytosterol and lanosterol.
保湿剤としては尿素、ヒアルロン酸、コンドロイチン硫酸、ピロリドンカルボン酸塩等が挙げられる。また、ゲル化剤のうち、水性のものとしては、アラビアガム、トラガカントガム、ガラクタン、キャロブガム、グァーガム、カラヤガム、カラギーナン、ペクチン、寒天、クインスシード(マルメロ)、デンプン(コメ、トウモロコシ、バレイショ、コムギ)、アルゲコロイド、トラントガム、ローカストビーンガム等の植物系高分子、キサンタンガム、デキストラン、サクシノグルカン、プルラン等の微生物系高分子、コラーゲン、カゼイン、アルブミン、ゼラチン等の動物系高分子、カルボキシメチルデンプン、メチルヒドロキシプロピルデンプン等のデンプン系高分子、メチルセルロース、ヒドロキシプロピルメチルセルロース、カルボキシメチルセルロース、ヒドロキシメチルセルロース、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロース、セルロース硫酸ナトリウム、カルボキシメチルセルロースナトリウム等のセルロース系高分子、アルギン酸ナトリウム、アルギン酸プロピレングリコールエステル等のアルギン酸系高分子、ポリアクリル酸ナトリウム、カルボキシビニルポリマー、アルキル変性カルボキシビニルポリマー、ポリアクリルアミド、ポリビニルアルコール、ポリビニルピロリドン等のビニル系高分子、ポリエチレングリコール、エチレンオキサイドプロピレンオキサイド共重合体、ベントナイト、ケイ酸アルミニウムマグネシウム、ラポナイト、ヘクトライト、無水ケイ酸等の無機系ゲル化剤増粘剤が挙げられる。 Examples of the humectant include urea, hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, pyrrolidone carboxylate and the like. Among the gelling agents, aqueous gums include gum arabic, gum tragacanth, galactan, carob gum, guar gum, caraya gum, carrageenan, pectin, agar, quince seed (malmello), starch (rice, corn, potato, wheat), Plant-based polymers such as algae colloids, Trant gum, locust bean gum, microbial polymers such as xanthan gum, dextran, succinoglucan, pullulan, animal polymers such as collagen, casein, albumin, gelatin, carboxymethyl starch, methyl Starch polymers such as hydroxypropyl starch, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, cellulose Cellulose polymers such as sodium sulfate and sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, alginic acid polymers such as sodium alginate and propylene glycol alginate, sodium polyacrylate, carboxyvinyl polymer, alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer, polyacrylamide, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone Inorganic gelling agent thickeners such as vinyl polymers such as polyethylene glycol, ethylene oxide propylene oxide copolymer, bentonite, magnesium aluminum silicate, laponite, hectorite, and silicic anhydride.
ゲル化剤のうち、油性のものとしては、アルミニウムステアレート、マグネシウムステアレート、ジンクミリステート等の金属セッケン、N−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸、α,γ−ジ−n−ブチルアミン等のアミノ酸誘導体、デキストリンパルミチン酸エステル、デキストリンステアリン酸エステル、デキストリン2−エチルヘキサン酸パルミチン酸混合エステル等のデキストリン脂肪酸エステル、ショ糖パルミチン酸エステル、ショ糖ステアリン酸エステル等のショ糖脂肪酸エステル、モノベンジリデンソルビトール、ジベンジリデンソルビトール等のソルビトールのベンジリデン誘導体、ジメチルベンジルドデシルアンモニウムモンモリロナイトクレー、ジメチルジオクタデシルアンモニウムモンモリロナイトクレー等の有機変性粘土鉱物が挙げられる。 Among gelling agents, oily ones include metal soaps such as aluminum stearate, magnesium stearate, zinc myristate, amino acid derivatives such as N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid, α, γ-di-n-butylamine, Dextrin fatty acid ester such as dextrin palmitic acid ester, dextrin stearic acid ester, dextrin 2-ethylhexanoic acid palmitic acid mixed ester, sucrose fatty acid ester such as sucrose palmitic acid ester, sucrose stearic acid ester, monobenzylidene sorbitol, dibenzylidene Organically modified clays such as benzylidene derivatives of sorbitol such as sorbitol, dimethylbenzyl dodecyl ammonium montmorillonite clay, dimethyl dioctadecyl ammonium montmorillonite clay Minerals.
粉体としては無機粉体、有機粉体、金属石鹸粉末、有色顔料、パール顔料、金属粉末、タール色素、天然色素等が挙げられ、その粒子形状(球状、針状、板状等)や粒子径(煙霧状、微粒子、顔料級等)、粒子構造(多孔質、無孔質等)を問わず、何れのものも使用することができる。無機粉体として、酸化チタン、酸化亜鉛、酸化セリウム、酸化ジルコニウム、酸化マグネシウム、硫酸バリウム、硫酸カルシウム、硫酸マグネシウム、炭酸カルシウム、炭酸マグネシウム、タルク、マイカ、カオリン、セリサイト、白雲母、合成雲母、金雲母、紅雲母、黒雲母、リチア雲母、ケイ酸、無水ケイ酸、ケイ酸アルミニウム、ケイ酸マグネシウム、ケイ酸アルミニウムマグネシウム、ケイ酸カルシウム、ケイ酸バリウム、ケイ酸ストロンチウム、タングステン酸金属塩、ヒドロキシアパタイト、バーミキュライト、ハイジライト、ベントナイト、モンモリロナイト、ヘクトライト、ゼオライト、セラミックスパウダー、第二リン酸カルシウム、アルミナ、水酸化アルミニウム、窒化ホウ素、窒化ボロン、シリカ等が挙げられる。 Examples of powders include inorganic powders, organic powders, metal soap powders, colored pigments, pearl pigments, metal powders, tar dyes, natural dyes, etc., and their particle shapes (spherical, needle, plate, etc.) and particles Any one can be used regardless of the diameter (smoke, fine particles, pigment grade, etc.) and the particle structure (porous, non-porous, etc.). As inorganic powder, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, magnesium oxide, barium sulfate, calcium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, talc, mica, kaolin, sericite, muscovite, synthetic mica, Phlogopite, red mica, biotite, lithia mica, silicic acid, anhydrous silicic acid, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, magnesium magnesium silicate, calcium silicate, barium silicate, strontium silicate, metal tungstate, hydroxy Examples include apatite, vermiculite, hydrite, bentonite, montmorillonite, hectorite, zeolite, ceramic powder, dicalcium phosphate, alumina, aluminum hydroxide, boron nitride, boron nitride, and silica.
有機粉体としては、ポリアミドパウダー、ポリエステルパウダー、ポリエチレンパウダー、ポリプロピレンパウダー、ポリスチレンパウダー、ポリウレタン、ベンゾグアナミンパウダー、ポリメチルベンゾグアナミンパウダー、テトラフルオロエチレンパウダー、ポリメチルメタクリレートパウダー、セルロースパウダー、シルクパウダー、ナイロンパウダー(12ナイロン、6ナイロン)、スチレン・アクリル酸共重合体パウダー、ジビニルベンゼン・スチレン共重合体パウダー、ビニル樹脂パウダー、尿素樹脂パウダー、フェノール樹脂パウダー、フッ素樹脂パウダー、ケイ素樹脂パウダー、アクリル樹脂パウダー、メラミン樹脂パウダー、エポキシ樹脂パウダー、ポリカーボネイト樹脂パウダー、微結晶繊維粉体パウダー、コメデンプン、ラウロイルリジン等が挙げられる。 Organic powders include polyamide powder, polyester powder, polyethylene powder, polypropylene powder, polystyrene powder, polyurethane, benzoguanamine powder, polymethylbenzoguanamine powder, tetrafluoroethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, cellulose powder, silk powder, nylon powder ( 12 nylon, 6 nylon), styrene / acrylic acid copolymer powder, divinylbenzene / styrene copolymer powder, vinyl resin powder, urea resin powder, phenol resin powder, fluororesin powder, silicon resin powder, acrylic resin powder, melamine Resin powder, epoxy resin powder, polycarbonate resin powder, microcrystalline fiber powder powder, comedemp And lauroyl lysine.
金属石鹸粉末(界面活性剤金属塩粉末)としてはステアリン酸亜鉛、ステアリン酸アルミニウム、ステアリン酸カルシウム、ステアリン酸マグネシウム、ミリスチン酸亜鉛、ミリスチン酸マグネシウム、セチルリン酸亜鉛、セチルリン酸カルシウム、セチルリン酸亜鉛ナトリウム等の各粉末が挙げられる。有色顔料としては酸化鉄、水酸化鉄、チタン酸鉄の無機赤色顔料、γー酸化鉄等の無機褐色系顔料、黄酸化鉄、黄土等の無機黄色系顔料、黒酸化鉄、カーボンブラック等の無機黒色顔料、マンガンバイオレット、コバルトバイオレット等の無機紫色顔料、水酸化クロム、酸化クロム、酸化コバルト、チタン酸コバルト等の無機緑色顔料、紺青、群青等の無機青色系顔料、タール系色素をレーキ化したもの、天然色素をレーキ化したもの及びこれらの粉体を複合化した複合粉体等が挙げられる。 As metal soap powder (surfactant metal salt powder), each of zinc stearate, aluminum stearate, calcium stearate, magnesium stearate, zinc myristate, magnesium myristate, zinc cetyl phosphate, calcium cetyl phosphate, sodium zinc cetyl phosphate, etc. A powder is mentioned. Examples of colored pigments include inorganic red pigments such as iron oxide, iron hydroxide, and iron titanate, inorganic brown pigments such as γ-iron oxide, inorganic yellow pigments such as yellow iron oxide and loess, black iron oxide, and carbon black. Lake inorganic black pigments, inorganic purple pigments such as manganese violet and cobalt violet, inorganic green pigments such as chromium hydroxide, chromium oxide, cobalt oxide and cobalt titanate, inorganic blue pigments such as bitumen and ultramarine blue, and tar dyes And those obtained by lacquering natural pigments and composite powders obtained by combining these powders.
パール顔料としては酸化チタン被覆雲母、酸化チタン被覆マイカ、オキシ塩化ビスマス、酸化チタン被覆オキシ塩化ビスマス、酸化チタン被覆タルク、魚鱗箔、酸化チタン被覆着色雲母等が挙げられ、また、金属粉末としてはアルミニウムパウダー、カッパーパウダー、ステンレスパウダー等が挙げられる。タール色素としては赤色3号、赤色104号、赤色106号、赤色201号、赤色202号、赤色204号、赤色205号、赤色220号、赤色226号、赤色227号、赤色228号、赤色230号、赤色401号、赤色505号、黄色4号、黄色5号、黄色202号、黄色203号、黄色204号、黄色401号、青色1号、青色2号、青色201号、青色404号、緑色3号、緑色201号、緑色204号、緑色205号、橙色201号、橙色203号、橙色204号、橙色206号、橙色207号等が挙げられ、天然色素としてはカルミン酸、ラッカイン酸、カルサミン、ブラジリン、クロシン等が挙げられる。 Examples of the pearl pigment include titanium oxide-coated mica, titanium oxide-coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide-coated bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide-coated talc, fish scale foil, titanium oxide-coated colored mica, and the metal powder is aluminum. Examples thereof include powder, copper powder, and stainless steel powder. The tar pigments are red No. 3, red No. 104, red No. 106, red No. 201, red No. 202, red No. 204, red No. 205, red No. 220, red No. 226, red No. 227, red No. 228 and red 230. No., red 401, red 505, yellow 4, yellow 5, yellow 202, yellow 203, yellow 204, yellow 401, blue 1, blue 2, blue 201, blue 404, Green No. 3, Green No. 201, Green No. 204, Green No. 205, Orange No. 201, Orange No. 203, Orange No. 204, Orange No. 206, Orange No. 207 and the like, and natural pigments include carminic acid, lacaic acid, Examples include calsamine, bradylin, and crocin.
これらの粉体はそのまま使用しても良いが、これらを粉体を複合化したり、油剤やシリコーン、フッ素化合物等で表面処理を行なって使用してもよい。上記粉体は必要に応じて1種又は2種以上を組み合わせて用いることができる。 These powders may be used as they are, but they may be used by combining the powders or by performing surface treatment with an oil agent, silicone, fluorine compound or the like. The said powder can be used 1 type or in combination of 2 or more type as needed.
紫外線吸収剤としてはパラアミノ安息香酸等の安息香酸系紫外線吸収剤、アントラニル酸メチル等のアントラニル酸系紫外線吸収剤、サリチル酸メチル等のサリチル酸系紫外線吸収剤、パラメトキシケイ皮酸オクチル等のケイ皮酸系紫外線吸収剤、2,4−ジヒドロキシベンゾフェノン等のベンゾフェノン系紫外線吸収剤、ウロカニン酸エチル等のウロカニン酸系紫外線吸収剤等が挙げられる。 As UV absorbers, benzoic acid UV absorbers such as paraaminobenzoic acid, anthranilic acid UV absorbers such as methyl anthranilate, salicylic acid UV absorbers such as methyl salicylate, and cinnamic acids such as octyl paramethoxycinnamate And benzophenone ultraviolet absorbers such as 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, and urocanic acid ultraviolet absorbers such as ethyl urocanate.
防腐剤、抗菌剤としてはパラオキシ安息香酸エステル、安息香酸、安息香酸ナトリウム、ソルビン酸、ソルビン酸カリウム、フェノキシエタノール、サリチル酸、石炭酸、ソルビン酸、パラクロルメタクレゾール、ヘキサクロロフェン、塩化ベンザルコニウム、塩化クロルヘキシジン、トリクロロカルバニリド、感光素、イソプロピルメチルフェノール等が挙げられる。 As preservatives and antibacterial agents, paraoxybenzoic acid esters, benzoic acid, sodium benzoate, sorbic acid, potassium sorbate, phenoxyethanol, salicylic acid, coalic acid, sorbic acid, parachlorometacresol, hexachlorophene, benzalkonium chloride, chlorhexidine chloride , Trichlorocarbanilide, photosensitizer, isopropylmethylphenol and the like.
酸化防止剤としてはトコフェロール、ブチルヒドロキシアニソール、ジブチルヒドロキシトルエン等、pH調整剤としては乳酸、乳酸塩、クエン酸、クエン酸塩、グリコール酸、コハク酸、酒石酸、リンゴ酸、炭酸カリウム、炭酸水素ナトリウム、炭酸水素アンモニウム等、キレート剤としてはアラニン、エデト酸ナトリウム塩、ポリリン酸ナトリウム、メタリン酸ナトリウム、リン酸塩、ヒドロキシエタンジホスホン等、清涼剤としてはL−メントール、カンファ、薄荷油、ペパーミント油、ユーカリ油等、抗炎症剤としてはアラントイン、グリチルレチン酸塩、グリチルレチン誘導体、トラネキサム酸、アズレン等が夫々挙げられる。 Tocopherol, butylhydroxyanisole, dibutylhydroxytoluene and the like as antioxidants, and lactic acid, lactate, citric acid, citrate, glycolic acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, potassium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate as pH adjusters , Ammonium bicarbonate, etc., as a chelating agent alanine, sodium edetate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium metaphosphate, phosphate, hydroxyethane diphosphone, etc., as a refreshing agent, L-menthol, camphor, light cargo oil, peppermint oil Examples of anti-inflammatory agents such as eucalyptus oil include allantoin, glycyrrhetinate, glycyrrhetin derivatives, tranexamic acid, azulene and the like.
美肌用成分としてはアルブチン、グルタチオン、ユキノシタ抽出物等の美白剤、ロイヤルゼリー、感光素、コレステロール誘導体、幼牛血液抽出液等の細胞賦活剤、肌荒れ改善剤、ノニル酸ワレニルアミド、ニコチン酸ベンジルエステル、ニコチン酸β−ブトキシエチルエステル、カプサイシン、ジンゲロン、カンタリスチンキ、イクタモール、カフェイン、タンニン酸、α−ボルネオール、ニコチン酸トコフェロール、イノシトールヘキサニコチネート、シクランデレート、シンナリジン、トラゾリン、アセチルコリン、ベラパミル、セファランチン、γ−オリザノール等の血行促進剤、酸化亜鉛、タンニン酸等の皮膚収斂剤、イオウ、チアントロール等の抗脂漏剤等が挙げられる。 As skin beautifying ingredients, whitening agents such as arbutin, glutathione, and yukinoshita extract, royal jelly, photosensitizer, cholesterol derivatives, cell activators such as calf blood extract, skin roughening agent, nonyl acid wallenyl amide, nicotinic acid benzyl ester, Nicotinic acid β-butoxyethyl ester, capsaicin, gingerone, cantalis tincture, ictamol, caffeine, tannic acid, α-borneol, tocopherol nicotinate, inositol hexanicotinate, cyclandrate, cinnarizine, trazoline, acetylcholine, verapamil, cephalanthin , Blood circulation promoters such as γ-oryzanol, skin astringents such as zinc oxide and tannic acid, and antiseborrheic agents such as sulfur and thianthol.
本発明において油性化粧料とは、油性成分を主骨格とし、油性成分が連続相である化粧料を意味するものであり、非水系の化粧料のみならず、油性成分を主骨格とするものであれば、水や水溶性成分を含む油中水型の化粧料も含む。本発明の油性化粧料は、他の成分との併用により種々の剤型にて実施することができ、他の成分との併用により種々の剤型にて実施することができ、アイクリーム、ヘアクリーム、ヘアワックス等の基礎化粧品や頭髪化粧品や、口紅やリップクリーム、コンシーラー、ファンデーション、アイ製品等のメイクアップ製品等に用いることができる。とりわけ、本発明の技術は特に口紅やリップクリーム、コンシーラー、ファンデーションのメイクアップ製品において好適に用いることができ、発明の効果を十分に利用することができる。 In the present invention, the oily cosmetic means a cosmetic in which the oily component is a main skeleton and the oily component is a continuous phase, and includes not only a non-aqueous cosmetic but also an oily component as a main skeleton. If present, it includes water-in-oil cosmetics containing water and water-soluble ingredients. The oily cosmetics of the present invention can be implemented in various dosage forms by using in combination with other ingredients, and can be implemented in various dosage forms by using in combination with other ingredients. Eye cream, hair It can be used in basic cosmetics such as creams and hair waxes and hair cosmetics, and makeup products such as lipsticks, lip balms, concealers, foundations, and eye products. In particular, the technique of the present invention can be suitably used especially for lipstick, lip balm, concealer, and foundation makeup products, and the effects of the invention can be fully utilized.
以下に実施例を挙げて、本発明を更に説明する。まず、フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルの製造例を示す。
合成例1
イヌリン(商品名「ラフティリンLS」ORAFTI社製、糖平均重合度10)10.8gにジメチルホルムアミド500gを加え、60℃で攪拌して溶解した。これにピリジン16gを加えて攪拌しながら塩化ステアロイル60.5gを滴下し、2時間反応後ピリジン塩を濾別し、ジメチルホルムアミドを留去した。残渣にトルエンを加えて抽出し、ボウ硝にて乾燥後溶媒を留去した。残渣をメタノールで洗浄し、目的物のイヌリンステアリン酸エステル45gを得た。このイヌリンステアリン酸エステルの脂肪酸平均置換度(一単糖単位あたりにアシル化した脂肪酸の分子数を示す)は2.7であった。
The following examples further illustrate the present invention. First, production examples of fructooligosaccharide fatty acid esters are shown.
Synthesis example 1
500 g of dimethylformamide was added to 10.8 g of inulin (trade name “Raftirin LS”, manufactured by ORAFTI, sugar average polymerization degree 10), and dissolved by stirring at 60 ° C. To this was added 16 g of pyridine and 60.5 g of stearoyl chloride was added dropwise with stirring. After reacting for 2 hours, the pyridine salt was filtered off, and dimethylformamide was distilled off. Toluene was added to the residue for extraction, and the solvent was distilled off after drying with bow glass. The residue was washed with methanol to obtain 45 g of the target product, inulin stearate. The average substitution degree of fatty acid of the inulin stearate ester (indicating the number of molecules of fatty acid acylated per monosaccharide unit) was 2.7.
合成例2
イヌリン(商品名「ラフティリンHP」ORAFTI社製、糖平均重合度23)16.2gにジメチルホルムアミド200g、ピリジン30gを加え、60℃で攪拌しながら溶解した。これに、攪拌しながら塩化ステアロイル91gを滴下し、5時間反応後、精製水1L中に投入して固形分を析出させた。これを濾別し、残渣をメタノールで洗浄し、目的物のイヌリンステアリン酸エステル57gを得た。このイヌリンステアリン酸エステルの脂肪酸平均置換度(一単糖単位あたりにアシル化した脂肪酸の分子数を示す)は2.8であった。
Synthesis example 2
200 g of dimethylformamide and 30 g of pyridine were added to 16.2 g of inulin (trade name “Raftirin HP”, manufactured by ORAFTI, sugar average polymerization degree 23), and dissolved at 60 ° C. with stirring. To this, 91 g of stearoyl chloride was added dropwise with stirring. After reacting for 5 hours, the mixture was poured into 1 L of purified water to precipitate a solid content. This was filtered off and the residue was washed with methanol to obtain 57 g of the target inulin stearate. The average substitution degree of fatty acid of the inulin stearate ester (indicating the number of molecules of fatty acid acylated per monosaccharide unit) was 2.8.
合成例3
イヌリン(商品名「ラフティリンHP」ORAFTI社製、糖平均重合度23)16.2gにジメチルホルムアミド200g、ピリジン30gを加え、60℃で攪拌しながら溶解した。これに、攪拌しながら塩化ステアロイル73gを滴下し、5時間反応後、精製水1L中に投入して固形分を析出させた。これを濾別し、残渣をメタノールで洗浄し、目的物のイヌリンステアリン酸エステル53gを得た。このイヌリンステアリン酸エステルの脂肪酸平均置換度(一単糖単位あたりにアシル化した脂肪酸の分子数を示す)は2.2であった。
Synthesis example 3
200 g of dimethylformamide and 30 g of pyridine were added to 16.2 g of inulin (trade name “Raftirin HP”, manufactured by ORAFTI, sugar average polymerization degree 23), and dissolved at 60 ° C. with stirring. To this, 73 g of stearoyl chloride was added dropwise with stirring. After reacting for 5 hours, the mixture was poured into 1 L of purified water to precipitate a solid content. This was filtered off and the residue was washed with methanol to obtain 53 g of the target inulin stearate. This inulin stearate ester had an average fatty acid substitution degree (indicating the number of fatty acid molecules acylated per monosaccharide unit) of 2.2.
合成例4
イヌリン(商品名「ラフティリンHP」ORAFTI社製、糖平均重合度23)16.2gにジメチルホルムアミド200g、ピリジン30gを加え、60℃で攪拌しながら溶解した。これに、攪拌しながら塩化ベヘノイル108gを滴下し、5時間反応後、精製水1.5L中に投入して固形分を析出させた。これを濾別し、残渣をメタノールで洗浄し、目的物のイヌリンベヘン酸エステル67gを得た。このイヌリンベヘン酸エステルの脂肪酸平均置換度(一単糖単位あたりにアシル化した脂肪酸の分子数を示す)は2.7であった。
Synthesis example 4
200 g of dimethylformamide and 30 g of pyridine were added to 16.2 g of inulin (trade name “Raftirin HP” manufactured by ORAFTI, 23), and dissolved at 60 ° C. with stirring. To this, 108 g of behenoyl chloride was added dropwise with stirring. After reacting for 5 hours, the solution was poured into 1.5 L of purified water to precipitate a solid content. This was filtered off, and the residue was washed with methanol to obtain 67 g of the target inulin behenate ester. The average substitution degree of fatty acid of the inulin behenate ester (indicating the number of molecules of fatty acid acylated per monosaccharide unit) was 2.7.
合成例5
加水分解イヌリン(商品名「ラフティローズP−95」ORAFTI社製、糖重合度2〜7)を用いる以外は、合成例2と同様の操作を行い、目的物のイヌリンステアリン酸エステル56gを得た。このイヌリンステアリン酸エステルの脂肪酸平均置換度(一単糖単位あたりにアシル化した脂肪酸の分子数を示す)は2.8であった。
Synthesis example 5
The same operation as in Synthesis Example 2 was performed except that hydrolyzed inulin (trade name “Rafty Rose P-95” manufactured by ORAFTI, sugar polymerization degree 2 to 7) was used to obtain 56 g of the target inulin stearate ester. . The average substitution degree of fatty acid (indicating the number of molecules of fatty acid acylated per monosaccharide unit) of this inulin stearate was 2.8.
実験例1〜4及び比較実験例1〜6
表1に示す実験例1〜4及び比較実験例1〜6の組成で加温溶解後、冷却して油性ゲル組成物を調製した。この油性ゲル組成物のゲル硬度を測定した。また、各油性ゲル組成物を高温(40℃)に静置して下記の評価方法により安定性を評価した。更に下記の評価方法により専門パネル10名により油性ゲル組成物について膜厚感、ツヤ感、滑らかさ、べたつきの無さを官能評価にてパネル各人が下記評価基準aを用いて評点を付け、各試料毎にパネル全員の評点合計からその平均値を算出したものを、下記判定基準bを用いて判定した。
Experimental Examples 1-4 and Comparative Experimental Examples 1-6
An oily gel composition was prepared by heating and dissolving in the compositions of Experimental Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Experimental Examples 1 to 6 shown in Table 1 and then cooling. The gel hardness of this oily gel composition was measured. Moreover, each oil-based gel composition was left still at high temperature (40 degreeC), and stability was evaluated with the following evaluation method. Furthermore, each panel gives a score using the following evaluation criteria a for sensory evaluation of film thickness feeling, glossiness, smoothness, and non-stickiness of the oil-based gel composition by 10 professional panels according to the following evaluation method, What calculated the average value from the total score of all the panels for every sample was determined using the following criteria b.
<ゲル硬度>
表1に示す組成物を80℃で加温溶解後、25℃の恒温槽に3時間静置した後にゲル硬度の測定を実施した。ゲル硬度はFUDOH社製レオメーターでΦ10mmのプランジャーを用い、6cm/分の進入速度で3mm進入時の荷重ピーク値(g)をゲル硬度とした。
<温度安定性>
○ :外観いずれも全く変化なし(発汗や油の染み出しが見られない)
△ :外観わずかに変化あり(わずかな油の染み出しが観察される)
× :外観著しい変化あり(著しい発汗が観察される)
<官能評価>
(評価基準a)
(評点) : (評価)
6 : 非常に良い
5 : 良い
4 : やや良い
3 : 普通
2 : やや悪い
1 : 悪い
0 : 非常に悪い
<Gel hardness>
The composition shown in Table 1 was heated and dissolved at 80 ° C., and then allowed to stand in a thermostatic bath at 25 ° C. for 3 hours, and then the gel hardness was measured. The gel hardness was a rheometer manufactured by FUDOH, using a Φ10 mm plunger, and the load peak value (g) at the time of 3 mm approach at an approach speed of 6 cm / min was defined as the gel hardness.
<Temperature stability>
○: No change in appearance (no sweating or oil seepage)
Δ: Appearance slightly changed (slight oil seepage observed)
×: Significant change in appearance (remarkable sweating observed)
<Sensory evaluation>
(Evaluation criteria a)
(Score): (Evaluation)
6: Very good 5: Good 4: Somewhat good 3: Normal 2: Somewhat bad 1: Bad 0: Very bad
(判定基準b)
(判定) : (評点平均値)
◎ : 5点を超える
○ : 3.5点を超え、かつ、5点以下
△ : 1.5点を超え、かつ、3.5点以下
× : 1.5点以下
(Criteria b)
(Judgment): (average score)
◎: Over 5 points ○: Over 3.5 points and 5 points or less △: Over 1.5 points and 3.5 points or less ×: 1.5 points or less
表1の結果から明らかなように、実験例1〜3と比較実験例1、2とを対比すると、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル(IOB値:0,33)に対し、成分(B)の高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルと成分(C)の低重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルを併用配合した実験例1〜3が、成分(B)の高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステル或は成分(C)の低重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルのみを配合した比較実験例1、2よりゲル化効果が良く、膜厚感、ツヤ感、滑らかさ、べたつきの無さの評価が優れている。また、実験例4と比較実験例3とを対比すると、IOB値が低いイソオクタン酸セチル(IOB値:0,13)に対しは、ゲル化効果は、成分(B)の高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルと成分(C)の低重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルを併用配合した実験例4が、成分(B)の高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルのみ配合した比較実験例3よりやや劣るが、温度安定性、膜厚感、ツヤ感、滑らかさ、べたつきの無さの全ての評価が優れている。また、成分(C)の低重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルのみを配合したものは、比較実験例4に見るように、ゲル化力がなく、温度安定性、膜厚感、ツヤ感、滑らかさ、べたつきの無さの全ての評価が劣る。このように、成分(B)の高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルと成分(C)の低重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルを併用配合したものは、殊にIOB値が0.3以上の極性の液状油のゲル化力に優れ、上記の各評価も優れている。 As is clear from the results of Table 1, when Experimental Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Experimental Examples 1 and 2 are compared, high polymerization of component (B) with respect to diisostearyl malate (IOB value: 0, 33). Experimental Examples 1-3 in which a fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester with a low degree of polymerization and a fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester with a low degree of component (C) are used in combination are high polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid esters of component (B) or low polymerization of component (C). The gelation effect is better than Comparative Experimental Examples 1 and 2 in which only the fructo-oligosaccharide fatty acid ester is blended, and the evaluation of film thickness, gloss, smoothness, and non-stickiness is excellent. Further, when Experimental Example 4 and Comparative Experimental Example 3 are compared, the gelation effect is high in the fructooligosaccharide fatty acid having a high degree of polymerization of component (B) for cetyl isooctanoate (IOB value: 0, 13) having a low IOB value. Experimental Example 4 in which an ester and a low-polymerization fructo-oligosaccharide fatty acid ester of component (C) are used in combination is slightly inferior to Comparative Experimental Example 3 in which only a high-polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of component (B) is mixed, but temperature stability Excellent evaluation of film thickness, gloss, smoothness and non-stickiness. Moreover, what mix | blended only the low degree-of-polymerization fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of a component (C) has no gelling power, as seen in the comparative experiment example 4, and has temperature stability, a film thickness feeling, a glossy feeling, smoothness, All evaluations of non-stickiness are inferior. Thus, the combination of the high polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of the component (B) and the low polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of the component (C) is particularly a polar liquid oil having an IOB value of 0.3 or more. The gelling power is excellent, and the above evaluations are also excellent.
表2に示す組成及び下記の製法でスティック状口紅を調製し、前述の評価方法に準じて、高温安定性と官能評価による膜厚感、ツヤ感、滑らかさ、べたつきの無さの評価を実施し判定した。その結果も併せて表2に示す。 A stick-shaped lipstick is prepared with the composition shown in Table 2 and the following production method, and the film thickness, gloss, smoothness, and non-stickiness are evaluated by high-temperature stability and sensory evaluation according to the above-described evaluation methods. Judged. The results are also shown in Table 2.
(製法)
A:成分1〜12を加温溶解後、成分13〜16を添加して均一に混合分散する。
B:Aを加温溶解後、容器に充填して冷却し、スティック状口紅を得た。
(Manufacturing method)
A: After components 1-12 are dissolved by heating, components 13-16 are added and mixed and dispersed uniformly.
B: After dissolving A by heating, the container was filled and cooled to obtain a stick-shaped lipstick.
表2の結果から明らかなように、本発明品1〜3の高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルと低重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルを併用配合したスティック状口紅は高温安定性に優れていた。また塗布したときに均一な膜厚感、ツヤ感、滑らかさ、べたつきの無さに優れたスティック状口紅であった。それに対し比較品1の高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルのみ配合したスティック状口紅、比較品3の低重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステルのみ配合したスティック状口紅は温度安定性にやや劣り、使用性も全てを満足させることはできなかった。比較品2のパルミチン酸デキストリンを配合したスティック状口紅、比較品4のエステル結合を有さない流動パラフィンを中心としたスティック状口紅は柔らかく、使用性、温度安定性すべての項目で劣っていた。 As is clear from the results in Table 2, the stick-shaped lipsticks in which the high polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester and the low polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of the products 1 to 3 of the present invention were combined were excellent in high temperature stability. Moreover, it was a stick-like lipstick that was excellent in uniform film thickness, gloss, smoothness and non-stickiness when applied. On the other hand, the stick lipstick containing only the high polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of Comparative Product 1 and the stick lipstick containing only the low polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester of Comparative Product 3 are slightly inferior in temperature stability and all of usability. I couldn't be satisfied. The stick-shaped lipstick blended with dextrin palmitate of comparative product 2 and the stick-shaped lipstick mainly composed of liquid paraffin having no ester bond of comparative product 4 were soft and inferior in all items of usability and temperature stability.
下記組成及び製法にて固形状リップグロスを調製した。
(成分) (質量%)
1.ミツロウ 2
2.パラフィンワックス(注10) 1
3.高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステル(合成例2) 0.5
4.低重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステル(合成例5) 2
5.水添ポリイソブチレン(注11) 20
6.ジカプリン酸プロピレングリコール(注12) 残量
7.ジイソステアリン酸ジグリセリル(注6) 10
8.リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル(注1) 20
9.赤色104号 1
10.黄色4号アルミニウムレーキ 2
11.黒酸化鉄 0.5
12.群青 0.2
13.ベンガラ被覆雲母チタン(注13) 5
14.防腐剤 適量
15.香料 適量
注10:PERFORMALENE 500(ニューフェーズテクノロジー社製)
注11:パールリーム18(日本油脂社製)
注12:NIKKOL PDD(日光ケミカルズ社製)
注13:チミロンスーパーレッド(メルク社製)
(製法)
A:成分1〜8を加温溶解後、成分9〜14を加えて均一に混合する。
B:Aに成分15を加えて均一に混合し、金皿に加熱充填後冷却し、固形状リップグロスを得た。
上記で得た固形状リップグロスは、化粧膜の均一な膜厚感、ツヤ感、滑らかな使用感、べたつきの無さ及び温度安定性にも極めて優れた品質を有するものであった。
Solid lip gloss was prepared by the following composition and production method.
(Ingredient) (mass%)
1. Beeswax 2
2. Paraffin wax (Note 10) 1
3. High polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester (Synthesis example 2) 0.5
4). Low polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester (Synthesis Example 5) 2
5. Hydrogenated polyisobutylene (Note 11) 20
6). 6. Propylene glycol dicaprate (Note 12) Remaining amount Diglyceryl diisostearate (Note 6) 10
8). Diisostearyl malate (Note 1) 20
9. Red No. 104 1
10. Yellow No. 4 aluminum rake 2
11. Black iron oxide 0.5
12 Ultramarine 0.2
13. Bengala-coated mica titanium (Note 13) 5
14 Preservative appropriate amount15. Perfume proper amount Note 10: PERFORMALENE 500 (manufactured by New Phase Technology)
Note 11: Pearl Ream 18 (Nippon Yushi Co., Ltd.)
Note 12: NIKKOL PDD (Nikko Chemicals)
Note 13: Timilon Super Red (Merck)
(Manufacturing method)
A: After components 1-8 are heated and dissolved, components 9-14 are added and mixed uniformly.
B: Component 15 was added to A and mixed uniformly. The mixture was heated and filled in a metal pan and cooled to obtain a solid lip gloss.
The solid lip gloss obtained above had a quality that was extremely excellent in the uniform film thickness, glossiness, smooth feel, non-stickiness, and temperature stability of the decorative film.
下記組成及び製法にて油性コンシーラーを調製した。
(成分) (質量%)
1.高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステル(合成例4) 5
2.低重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステル(合成例5) 5
3.ジメチルポリシロキサン(注14) 10
4.リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル(注1) 5
5.トリ2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリル(注7) 10
6.シリコーン分岐型ラウリル・ポリグリセリン
変性シリコーン(注15) 0.5
7.シリコーン処理酸化チタン(注16) 30
8.ベンガラ 0.5
9.黄酸化鉄 6
10.黒酸化鉄 0.01
11.シリコーン処理タルク(注17) 残量
12.ナイロンパウダー(注18) 3
13.雲母チタン(注19) 5
14.防腐剤 適量
15.香料 適量
注14:KF−96A−10cs(信越化学工業社製)
注15:KF−6105(信越化学工業社製)
注16:SA−チタンCR−50(三好化成社製)
注17:SA−タルク5μ(三好化成社製)
注18:東レナイロン粉末SP−500(東レ社製)
注19:チミロンスーパーシーンMP−1001(メルク社製)
(製法)
A:成分1〜6を加温溶解後、成分7〜14を添加して混合分散する。
B:Aを冷却後、成分15を添加して混合し、容器に加温充填後、冷却固化して油性コンシーラーを得た。
上記で得た油性コンシーラーは、化粧膜の均一な膜厚感、ツヤ感、滑らかな使用感、べたつきの無さ及び温度安定性にも極めて優れた品質を有するものであった。
An oily concealer was prepared by the following composition and production method.
(Ingredient) (mass%)
1. High polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester (Synthesis example 4) 5
2. Low polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester (Synthesis example 5) 5
3. Dimethylpolysiloxane (Note 14) 10
4). Diisostearyl malate (Note 1) 5
5. Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate (Note 7) 10
6). Silicone branched lauryl polyglycerin modified silicone (Note 15) 0.5
7). Silicone-treated titanium oxide (Note 16) 30
8). Bengala 0.5
9. Yellow iron oxide 6
10. Black iron oxide 0.01
11. Silicone-treated talc (Note 17) Remaining amount 12. Nylon powder (Note 18) 3
13. Mica titanium (Note 19) 5
14 Preservative appropriate amount15. Perfume appropriate amount Note 14: KF-96A-10cs (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
Note 15: KF-6105 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
Note 16: SA-titanium CR-50 (manufactured by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd.)
Note 17: SA-talc 5μ (manufactured by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd.)
Note 18: Toray nylon powder SP-500 (Toray Industries, Inc.)
Note 19: Timilon Super Scene MP-1001 (Merck)
(Manufacturing method)
A: Components 1 to 6 are heated and dissolved, and then components 7 to 14 are added and mixed and dispersed.
B: After cooling A, component 15 was added and mixed, and the container was heated and filled, and then cooled and solidified to obtain an oily concealer.
The oily concealer obtained as described above had a quality excellent in the uniform film thickness, glossiness, smooth feeling of use, non-stickiness and temperature stability of the decorative film.
下記組成及び製法にて油性ゲル状アイカラーを調製した。
(成分) (質量%)
1.高重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステル(合成例1) 5
2.低重合度フラクトオリゴ糖脂肪酸エステル(合成例5) 5
3.エチレン・プロピレンコポリマー(注3) 1
4.ロジン酸ペンタエリスット(注20) 5
5.トリ2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリル(注7) 残量
6.リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル(注1) 15
7.イソノナン酸イソノニル(注21) 10
8.セスキオレイン酸ソルビタン 1
9.酸化チタン 2
10.雲母チタン(注13) 10
11.ベンガラ被覆雲母チタン 5
12.マイカ 15
13.群青 1.5
14.黒酸化鉄 0.5
15.煙霧状無水ケイ酸(注22) 1
16.ウレタンパウダー(注23) 5
17.防腐剤 適量
18.香料 適量
注20:エステルガムHP(荒川化学工業社製)
注21:サラコス99(日清オイリオグループ社製)
注22:AEROSIL 300(日本アエロジル社製)
注23:プラスチック・パウダーD400(東色ピグメント社製)
(製法)
A:成分1〜8を加温溶解後、成分9〜17を加えて均一に混合する。
B:Aに成分18を加えて均一に混合し、容器に加熱充填後冷却し、油性ゲル状アイカラーを得た。
上記で得た油性ゲル状アイカラーは、化粧膜の均一な膜厚感、ツヤ感、滑らかな使用感、べたつきの無さ及び温度安定性にも極めて優れた品質を有するものであった。
An oily gel eye color was prepared by the following composition and production method.
(Ingredient) (mass%)
1. High polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester (Synthesis example 1) 5
2. Low polymerization degree fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester (Synthesis example 5) 5
3. Ethylene / propylene copolymer (Note 3) 1
4). Rosin acid pentaerythot (Note 20) 5
5. 5. Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate (Note 7) Diisostearyl malate (Note 1) 15
7). Isononyl isononanoate (Note 21) 10
8). Sorbitan sesquioleate 1
9. Titanium oxide 2
10. Mica titanium (Note 13) 10
11. Bengala coated mica titanium 5
12 Mica 15
13. Ultramarine 1.5
14 Black iron oxide 0.5
15. Smoke-like silicic acid (Note 22) 1
16. Urethane powder (Note 23) 5
17. Preservative appropriate amount 18. Fragrance proper amount Note 20: Esther gum HP (Arakawa Chemical Industries)
Note 21: Saracos 99 (Nisshin Oillio Group)
Note 22: AEROSIL 300 (Nippon Aerosil Co., Ltd.)
Note 23: Plastic powder D400 (Toyo Pigment)
(Manufacturing method)
A: Components 1 to 8 are heated and dissolved, and then components 9 to 17 are added and mixed uniformly.
B: Component 18 was added to A and mixed uniformly. The mixture was heated and filled in a container and then cooled to obtain an oily gel eye color.
The oily gel-like eye color obtained above had a quality that was extremely excellent in the uniform film thickness, gloss, smooth use, non-stickiness, and temperature stability of the decorative film.
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JP2014196259A (en) * | 2013-03-29 | 2014-10-16 | 株式会社コーセー | Oily solid cosmetic |
JP2014221755A (en) * | 2013-05-14 | 2014-11-27 | 千葉製粉株式会社 | Fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester and cosmetic |
JP2015024962A (en) * | 2013-07-24 | 2015-02-05 | 日本メナード化粧品株式会社 | Oily bar cosmetic |
JP2016070847A (en) * | 2014-09-30 | 2016-05-09 | 花王株式会社 | Method and device for evaluating gloss of cosmetic |
JP2019104710A (en) * | 2017-12-13 | 2019-06-27 | 東色ピグメント株式会社 | Oily cosmetic |
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JP2002193747A (en) * | 2000-12-28 | 2002-07-10 | Kose Corp | Oily makeup cosmetic |
JP2002265328A (en) * | 2001-03-12 | 2002-09-18 | Kose Corp | Solid cosmetic |
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Patent Citations (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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JP2002193747A (en) * | 2000-12-28 | 2002-07-10 | Kose Corp | Oily makeup cosmetic |
JP2002265328A (en) * | 2001-03-12 | 2002-09-18 | Kose Corp | Solid cosmetic |
Cited By (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPS6092625A (en) * | 1983-10-27 | 1985-05-24 | Toshiba Corp | Removing method of resin burr of resin seal type semiconductor device |
JP2014196259A (en) * | 2013-03-29 | 2014-10-16 | 株式会社コーセー | Oily solid cosmetic |
JP2014221755A (en) * | 2013-05-14 | 2014-11-27 | 千葉製粉株式会社 | Fructooligosaccharide fatty acid ester and cosmetic |
JP2015024962A (en) * | 2013-07-24 | 2015-02-05 | 日本メナード化粧品株式会社 | Oily bar cosmetic |
JP2016070847A (en) * | 2014-09-30 | 2016-05-09 | 花王株式会社 | Method and device for evaluating gloss of cosmetic |
JP2019104710A (en) * | 2017-12-13 | 2019-06-27 | 東色ピグメント株式会社 | Oily cosmetic |
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