FR3152387A3 - COMPOSITION ADAPTED TO KERATINOUS FIBERS - Google Patents

Abstract

COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS The present invention mainly relates to a composition for keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one aminosilicone. The present invention can improve the remodeling of keratinous fibers such as hair based on a treatment of the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, providing longer lasting smoothing effects. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS

The present invention relates mainly to a composition which is suitable for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair.

STATE OF THE ART

Straightening keratin fibers, such as hair, by heating them with a flat iron is a common practice. This method makes unruly fibers more manageable, reduces volume, and improves the overall appearance. While this type of straightening is convenient for quick styling, the results are short-lived, lasting only until the next shampoo. Many consumers require a more permanent straightening method.

On the other hand, classic permanent straightening processes using a reducing agent and an alkaline agent, as well as an oxidizing agent, with heating, can offer keratin fibers a durable style, but they have several disadvantages such as a long treatment time, damage to keratin fibers and a bad smell.

Document WO 2014/131469 discloses a process for smoothing keratinous fibers by heating with an iron, without the use of reducing and oxidizing agents, in which glyoxylic acid is used to smooth the keratinous fibers.

Document US-A-2023/742 discloses a semi-permanent hair smoothing composition including 15% to 20% by weight of glyoxylic acid and 0.1% to 5% by weight of levulinic acid.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

It remains necessary to improve the remodeling of keratinous fibers based on treatment of keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof.

An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition that is useful for remodeling keratinous fibers such as hair, based on a treatment of the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, which can provide the keratinous fibers with more durable remodeling effects.

1. au moins un composé choisi dans le groupe consistant en acide glyoxylique, solvates d’acide glyoxylique, sels d’acide glyoxylique, esters d’acide glyoxylique, amides d’acide glyoxylique et mélanges de ceux-ci ;
2. au moins un composé, différent du composé (a), choisi dans le groupe consistant en acides cétoniques, sels de ceux-ci et mélanges de ceux-ci ; et
3. au moins une aminosilicone.

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition intended for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising:

1. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;
2. at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketone acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; and
3. at least one aminosilicone.

The quantity of compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 14% by weight, and more preferably less than 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Compound (d) may be chosen from levulinic acid, a salt thereof, and a mixture of these.

The quantity of compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less and, more preferably, 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aminosilicone (c) may be selected from the group consisting of amodimethicone, aminopropyldimethicone and a mixture of these.

The amount of aminosilicone or aminosilicones (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) water.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one betaine compound.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one fatty amine.

The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less.

The composition according to the present invention may not comprise any ammonia or thiol compound, or may comprise less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of ammonia or thiol compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may not include any reducing agent or oxidizing agent, or may include less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention can be used for remodeling, preferably for smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair.

1. application de la composition selon la présente invention sur les fibres kératineuses ;
2. rinçage facultatif des fibres kératineuses avec ou sans séchage des fibres kératineuses après rinçage ; et
3. remodelage, de préférence lissage des fibres kératineuses, préférablement à une température de plus de 50 ºC, plus préférablement, de plus de 100 ºC et encore plus préférablement, de plus de 150 ºC.

The present invention also relates to a method for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps:

1. application of the composition according to the present invention on keratinous fibers;
2. Optional rinsing of keratin fibers with or without drying of the keratin fibers after rinsing; and
3. remodeling, preferably smoothing of keratinous fibers, preferably at a temperature of more than 50°C, more preferably, of more than 100°C and even more preferably, of more than 150°C.

The present invention also relates to a kit for reshaping, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:

at least one chosen from the group consisting of an iron, a curler, a comb, a hairdryer and a combination thereof, preferably at least one heated iron, heated curler, heated comb or heated hairdryer that is capable of supplying the keratin fibers with a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C and more preferably above 150°C; and

the composition according to the present invention.

After diligent research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to provide a composition that is useful for remodeling keratinous fibers such as hair, based on treating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, and that can provide the keratinous fibers with more durable remodeling effects.

1. au moins un composé choisi dans le groupe consistant en acide glyoxylique, solvates d’acide glyoxylique, sels d’acide glyoxylique, esters d’acide glyoxylique, amides d’acide glyoxylique et mélanges de ceux-ci ;

1. au moins un composé, différent du composé (a), choisi dans le groupe consistant en acides cétoniques, sels de ceux-ci et mélanges de ceux-ci ; et
2. au moins une aminosilicone.

Thus, the present invention relates primarily to a composition intended for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising:

1. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;

1. at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketone acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; and
2. at least one aminosilicone.

The present invention can improve the remodeling of keratinous fibers such as hair, based on a treatment of the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, providing more durable remodeling effects.

The remodeling of keratinous fibers, such as hair, here encompasses the straightening or curling of keratinous fibers.

The present invention can impart more durable remodeling effects to keratin fibers such as hair. Thus, the present invention can lengthen or prolong the remodeling effects of keratin fibers obtained through the use of a composition comprising only glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof. In particular, the present invention can further maintain the straight or curly shape of keratin fibers, or can prevent or reduce the loss of the straight or curly shape of keratin fibers over time.

For example, if keratin fibers are originally wavy, the present invention can offer better prevention against the return of keratin fibers to their original wavy shape, after straightening of the keratin fibers, particularly after shampooing.

The present invention can also impart sufficient immediate remodeling effects to keratin fibers. Thus, keratin fibers treated with the present invention to be smoothed can exhibit less volume or less frizz due to the reduction of the keratin fiber curls. The remodeling effects conferred by the present invention can be long-lasting, for example, even after shampooing the keratin fibers. Therefore, the present invention can also impart a shape to keratin fibers with good shampoo resistance.

The present invention can cause less damage to keratin fibers compared to conventional permanent remodeling processes, as it does not require the use of reducing/oxidizing agents. Consequently, keratin fibers treated with this invention can be easily combed. Thus, keratin fibers treated with this invention can be easy to manage. Furthermore, keratin fibers treated with this invention can be more resistant than those treated with conventional permanent remodeling technologies.

Furthermore, the present invention can use little or no ammonia or thiol compound, and consequently, the odor during its use can be reduced compared to conventional processes that require the use of ammonia or a thiol compound. In addition, the present invention may offer ease of use, for example, a short processing time.

We will describe the present invention in detail below.

[Composition]

1. au moins un composé choisi dans le groupe consistant en acide glyoxylique, solvates d’acide glyoxylique, sels d’acide glyoxylique, esters d’acide glyoxylique, amides d’acide glyoxylique et mélanges de ceux-ci ;

1. au moins un composé, différent du composé (a), choisi dans le groupe consistant en acides cétoniques, sels de ceux-ci et mélanges de ceux-ci ; et
2. au moins une aminosilicone.

The composition according to the present invention comprises:

1. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;

1. at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketone acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; and
2. at least one aminosilicone.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention should be a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for remodeling keratin fibers, and even more preferably a cosmetic composition for remodeling keratin fibers in a single step. It is particularly preferable that the keratin fibers be hair.

(Glyoxylic acid and its derivatives)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof.

Only one type of compound (a) may be used, or two or more different types of compounds (a) may be used in combination.

Compound (a) is chosen from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof. In other words, compound (a) is chosen from glyoxylic acid and derivatives thereof.

Examples of glyoxylic acid solvates include glyoxylic acid hydrates such as glyoxylic acid monohydrate.

Examples of glyoxylic acid salts include alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of glyoxylic acid such as sodium or potassium glyoxylate, and magnesium or calcium glyoxylate.

Examples of glyoxylic acid esters include alkyl esters of glyoxylic acid such as methyl glyoxylate and ethyl glyoxylate.

Examples of glyoxylic acid amides include N-glyoxyloylcarbocysteine and N-glyoxyloyl keratin amino acids.

It is preferable to use glyoxylic acid as compound (a).

The quantity of the compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 14% by weight, and more preferably less than 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, the quantity of compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to less than 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to less than 14% by weight and more preferably from 1% to less than 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the quantity of compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be 12% by weight or less, preferably 11% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, in this embodiment, the quantity of compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 11% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Ketonic acid)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from ketonic acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. Two or more of the compounds (b) may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of compound (b) or a combination of different types of compounds (b) may be used.

Ketone acids can be chosen from α-keto acids, β-keto acids, γ-keto acids and mixtures thereof.

α-Ketone acids can be compounds represented by the general formula (I):

R ¹ -C(=O)-COOH (I)

• R¹désigne un groupe alkyle en C₁-C₆linéaire ou ramifié, facultativement substitué par un atome d’OH, de COOH ou d’halogène tel qu’un atome de chlore ou de brome.

in which

• R ¹ denotes a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group, optionally substituted by an OH, COOH or halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

Examples of α-keto acid include pyruvic acid.

β-keto acids can be represented by the general formula (II):

R ² -C(=O)-R ³ -COOH (II)

• R²désigne un groupe alkyle en C₁-C₆linéaire ou ramifié, facultativement substitué par un atome d’OH, de COOH ou d’halogène tel qu’un atome de chlore ou de brome ; et
• R³désigne un groupe méthylène, facultativement substitué par un atome d’halogène tel qu’un atome de chlore ou de brome.

in which

• ^R2 denotes a linear or branched _C1 - _C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by an OH, COOH, or halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom; and
• R ³ designates a methylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

Examples of β-keto acid include acetoacetic acid.

γ-keto acids can be represented by the general formula (III):

R ² -C(=O)-R ⁴ -COOH (III)

• R²désigne un groupe alkyle en C₁-C₆linéaire ou ramifié, facultativement substitué par un atome d’OH, de COOH ou d’halogène tel qu’un atome de chlore ou de brome ; et
• R⁴désigne un groupe éthylène, facultativement substitué par un atome d’halogène tel qu’un atome de chlore ou de brome.

in which

• ^R2 denotes a linear or branched _C1 - _C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by an OH, COOH, or halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom; and
• R ⁴ designates an ethylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

Examples of γ-keto acids include levulinic acid.

Ketone acid salts can be alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of ketone acid such as sodium or potassium salts of ketone acid, and magnesium or calcium salts of ketone acid.

It is preferable to use, as compound(s) (b), γ-keto acid, and more preferably, levulinic acid and/or a salt thereof such as sodium levulinate.

The quantity of compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less and, more preferably, 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, the quantity of compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the quantity of compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, in this embodiment, the quantity of compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another embodiment, compound(s) (b) may be present in a smaller quantity than compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention. For example, the weight ratio of the quantity of compound(s) (a) to the quantity of compound(s) (b) included in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1:1 to 15:1, preferably from 1:1 to 10:1, and more preferably from 1:1 to 4:1.

(Aminosilicone)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one aminosilicone. Two or more aminosilicones may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of aminosilicone or a combination of different types of aminosilicones may be used.

As an aminosilicone (c), any aminosilicone compound in the field of cosmetics can be used.

The term "aminosilicone" here refers to a silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group or at least one quaternary ammonium group.

1. Polysiloxanes correspondant à la formule (A) :

Examples of aminosilicone (c) compounds that can be used in the present invention include:

1. Polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):

1. Aminosilicones correspondant à la formule (B) :

in which x' and y' are independently integers such that the average molecular mass by weight (Mw) is between approximately 5,000 and 500,000 g/mol;

1. Aminosilicones corresponding to formula (B):

R' _a G _(3-a) -Si(OSiG ₂ ) _n -(OSiG _b R' _(2-b) ) _m -O-SiG _(3-a') R'_a' (B)

• G désigne indépendamment un atome d’hydrogène, ou un groupe phényle, OH, ou un groupe alkyle en C₁-C_8,par exemple méthyle, ou un groupe alcoxy en C₁-C_8,par exemple méthoxy,
• a et a' désignent indépendamment le nombre 0 ou un entier de 1 à 3, en particulier 0 ;
• b désigne 0 ou 1, et en particulier 1 ;
• m et n sont des nombres tels que la somme (n + m) va de 1 à 2 000 et en particulier de 50 à 150, sachant que n peut désigner un nombre de 0 à 1 999 et en particulier de 49 à 149, et que m peut désigner un nombre de 1 à 2 000 et en particulier de 1 à 10 ;

in which:

• G independently designates a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl group, OH, or a _C1 - _{C8 alkyl group,} for example methyl, or a _C1 - _{C8 alkoxy group,} for example methoxy,
• a and a' independently denote the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0;
• b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1;
• m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

R' independently denotes a monovalent group of formula -C _q H _2q L in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

-NR"-QN(R") ₂

-N(R") ₂

-N ⁺ (R") ₃ A ^-

-N ⁺ H(R") ₂ A ^-

-N ⁺ H ₂ (R") A ^-

-NR"-QN ⁺ R"H ₂ A ^-

-NR"-QN ⁺ (R") ₂ HA ^-

-NR"-QN ⁺ (R") ₃ A ^- ,

• R" désigne indépendamment un atome d’hydrogène, un groupe phényle, un groupe benzyle ou un groupe hydrocarboné monovalent saturé, par exemple un groupe alkyle en C₁-C₂₀;
• Q désigne un groupe C_rH_2rlinéaire ou ramifié, r étant un nombre entier allant de 2 à 6, de préférence de 2 à 4 ; et
• A^-représente un ion cosmétiquement acceptable, en particulier un halogénure tel que fluorure, chlorure, bromure ou iodure.

in which

• R" independently designates a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, a benzyl group or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon group, for example a _C1 - _C20 alkyl group;
• Q denotes a linear or branched group C _r H _2r , where r is an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and
• A ^- represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

A group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" with formula (C):

in which n and m have the meaning given above, in formula B. The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of aminosilicone (C) can range from 100,000 to 2,500,000, preferably from 300,000 to 2,000,000 and more preferably from 500,000 to 1,500,000.

Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by silicones with the following formula (D) or (E):

• m et n sont des nombres tels que la somme (n + m) peut aller de 1 à 1 000, en particulier de 50 à 250 et plus particulièrement de 100 à 200, sachant que n peut désigner un nombre de 0 à 999 et en particulier de 49 à 249, et plus particulièrement de 125 à 175, et que m peut désigner un nombre de 1 à 1 000 et en particulier de 1 à 10, et plus particulièrement de 1 à 5 ;
• R₁, R₂et R₃représentent indépendamment un groupe hydroxy ou alcoxy en C₁-C_4,dans lequel au moins un des groupes R₁à R₃désigne un groupe alcoxy.

in which:

• m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can go from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 1,000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;
• _R1 , _R2 and _R3 independently represent a hydroxy or alkoxy group in _C1 - _C4, in which at least one of the groups _R1 to _R3 designates an alkoxy group.

The alkoxy group is preferably a methoxy group.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

The average molecular weight (Mw) of aminosilicone (D) preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.

• p et q sont des nombres tels que la somme (p + q) va de 1 à 1 000, en particulier de 50 à 350, et plus particulièrement de 150 à 250 ; sachant que p peut désigner un nombre de 0 à 999 et en particulier de 49 à 349, et plus particulièrement de 159 à 239 et que q peut désigner un nombre de 1 à 1 000, en particulier de 1 à 10, et plus particulièrement de 1 à 5 ;
• R₁et R₂représentent indépendamment un groupe hydroxy ou alcoxy en C₁-C_4,où au moins un des groupes R₁ou R₂désigne un groupe alcoxy.

in which:

• p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) goes from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; knowing that p can denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and that q can denote a number from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;
• _R1 and _R2 independently represent a hydroxy or alkoxy group in _C1 - _C4, where at least one of the groups _R1 or _R2 designates an alkoxy group.

The alkoxy group is preferably a methoxy group.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of aminosilicone (E) preferably ranges from 2,000 to 200,000, even more particularly from 5,000 to 100,000 and more particularly from 10,000 to 50,000.

Commercial products corresponding to these structural silicones (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other aminosilicones whose structure is different from formula (D) or (E).

A product containing an aminosilicone of structure (D) is marketed by Wacker under the name BELSIL ADM 652.

A product containing an aminosilicone of structure (E) is marketed by Wacker under the name FLUID WR 1300®.

Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (F):

• m et n sont des nombres tels que la somme (n + m) va de 1 à 2 000 et en particulier de 50 à 150, sachant que n peut désigner un nombre de 0 à 1 999 et en particulier de 49 à 149, et que m peut désigner un nombre de 1 à 2 000 et en particulier de 1 à 10 ;
• A désigne un groupe alkylène linéaire ou ramifié contenant de 4 à 8 atomes de carbone et préférablement 4 atomes de carbone. Ce groupe est de préférence linéaire.

in which:

• m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
• A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably linear.

The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of aminosilicone (F) preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly, from 3,500 to 200,000.

A preferred silicone formula (F) is amodimethicone marketed under the trade name XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow.

Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (G):

• m et n sont des nombres tels que la somme (n + m) va de 1 à 2 000 et en particulier de 50 à 150, sachant que n peut désigner un nombre de 0 à 1 999 et en particulier de 49 à 149, et que m peut désigner un nombre de 1 à 2 000 et en particulier de 1 à 10 ;
• A désigne un groupe alkylène linéaire ou ramifié contenant de 4 à 8 atomes de carbone et préférablement 4 atomes de carbone. Ce groupe est de préférence ramifié.

in which:

• m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
• A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably branched.

The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of aminosilicone (G) preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly, from 1,000 to 200,000.

1. Aminosilicones correspondant à la formule (H) :

A silicone with this formula is, for example, DOWSIL ^TM 2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow.

1. Aminosilicones corresponding to formula (H):

• R₅représente indépendamment un groupe hydrocarboné monovalent contenant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbone, et en particulier un groupe alkyle en C₁-C₁₈ou alcényle en C₂-C₁₈, par exemple méthyle ;
• R₆représente un groupe hydrocarboné divalent, en particulier un groupe alkylène en C₁-C₁₈ou un groupe alkylènoxy divalent en C₁-C₁₈, par exemple en C₁-C₈, lié au Si par l’intermédiaire d’une liaison SiC ;
• Q^-est un anion tel qu'un ion halogénure, en particulier chlorure, ou un sel d'acide organique (par exemple, acétate) ;
• r représente une valeur statistique moyenne de 2 à 20 et en particulier de 2 à 8 ;
• s représente une valeur statistique moyenne de 20 à 200 et en particulier de 20 à 50.

in which:

• R ₅ independently represents a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl or C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl group, for example methyl;
• R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene group or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylenoxy group, for example C ₁ -C ₈ , linked to Si via a SiC bond;
• Q ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or a salt of organic acid (e.g., acetate);
• r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;
• s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50.

1. Silicones d'ammonium quaternaire de formule (I) :

Such aminosilicones are described more specifically in US patent 4,185,087.

1. Quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I):

• R₇représente indépendamment un groupe hydrocarboné monovalent contenant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbone, et en particulier un groupe alkyle en C₁-C₁₈, un groupe alcényle en C₂-C₁₈ou un cycle contenant 5 ou 6 atomes de carbone, par exemple méthyle ;
• R₆représente indépendamment un groupe hydrocarboné divalent, en particulier un groupe alkylène en C₁-C₁₈ou un groupe alkylènoxy divalent en C₁-C₁₈, par exemple en C₁-C₈, lié au Si par l’intermédiaire d’une liaison SiC ;
• R₈représente indépendamment un atome d’hydrogène, un groupe hydrocarboné monovalent contenant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbone, et en particulier un groupe alkyle en C₁-C_18,un groupe alcényle en C₂-C₁₈ou un groupe -R₆-NHCOR₇;
• X^-est un anion tel qu'un ion halogénure, en particulier un chlorure, ou un sel d'acide organique (par exemple acétate) ;
• r représente une valeur statistique moyenne de 2 à 200 et en particulier de 5 à 100 ;

in which:

• R ₇ independently represents a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl group or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
• R ₆ independently represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene group or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylenoxy group, for example C ₁ -C ₈ , linked to Si via a SiC bond;
• R ₈ independently represents a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C _{18 alkyl group,} a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl group or an -R ₆ -NHCOR ₇ group;
• X ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular a chloride, or a salt of organic acid (e.g. acetate);
• r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100;

1. Aminosilicones de formule (J) :

These silicones are described, for example, in the patent application
EP-A 0 530 974.

1. Aminosilicones of formula (J):

• R₁, R₂, R₃et R₄désignent indépendamment un groupe alkyle en C₁-C₄ou un groupe phényle ;
• R₅désigne un radical alkyle en C₁-C₄ou un groupe hydroxyle ;
• m est un nombre entier allant de 1 à 5 ;
• n est un nombre entier allant de 1 à 5 ;
• et dans laquelle x est choisi de telle sorte que l’indice d’amine soit entre 0,01 et 1 méq/g ;

1. Aminosilicones polyoxyalkylénées multiblocs, de type (AB)_n, A étant un bloc polysiloxane et B étant un bloc polyoxyalkyléné contenant au moins un groupe amine.

in which:

• _R1 , _R2 , _R3 and _R4 independently designate a _C1 - _C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group;
• R ₅ denotes a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group;
• m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;
• n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;
• and in which x is chosen such that the amine index is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g;

1. Multiblock polyoxyalkylated aminosilicones, of type (AB) _n , A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylated block containing at least one amine group.

These silicones are preferably made up of repeating patterns of the following general formulas:

[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ -RN(R")-R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -R'-N(H)-R-]

or alternatively

[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ -RN(R")-R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -]

• a est un nombre entier supérieur ou égal à 1, allant préférablement de 5 à 200, allant plus particulièrement de 10 à 100 ;
• b est un nombre entier compris entre 0 et 200, allant préférablement de 4 à 100, plus particulièrement entre 5 et 30 ;
• x est un nombre entier allant de 1 à 10 000, plus particulièrement de 10
  à 5 000 ;
• R" est un atome d’hydrogène ou un méthyle ;
• R représente indépendamment un groupe hydrocarboné en C₂-C₁₂divalent linéaire ou ramifié incluant facultativement un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes tels qu'un oxygène ; préférablement, R désigne indépendamment un groupe éthylène, un groupe propylène linéaire ou ramifié, un groupe butylène linéaire ou ramifié ou un groupe -CH₂CH₂CH₂OCH(OH)CH₂- ; préférentiellement R désigne indépendamment un groupe -CH₂CH₂CH₂OCH(OH)CH₂- ;
• R' représentent indépendamment un groupe hydrocarboné en C2-C12 divalent linéaire ou ramifié, incluant facultativement un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes tels qu'un oxygène ; préférablement, R' désigne un groupe éthylène, un groupe propylène linéaire ou ramifié, un groupe butylène linéaire ou ramifié ou un groupe -CH₂CH₂CH₂OCH(OH)CH₂- ; préférentiellement R' désigne -CH(CH₃)-CH₂-.

in which:

• a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 5 to 200, more particularly from 10 to 100;
• b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30;
• x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more specifically from 10
  to 5,000;
• R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;
• R independently represents a linear or branched divalent _C2 - _C12 hydrocarbon group optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as an oxygen; preferably, R independently denotes an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or _branched butylene group, or a _{-CH2CH2CH2OCH} (OH) _CH2- group; preferably _, R independently denotes _{a -CH2CH2CH2OCH} (OH) _{CH2- group} ;
• R' independently represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon group, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as an oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or _{branched butylene group, or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH (} OH) _CH2- group; preferably R' denotes -CH( _CH3 ) _{-CH2- .}

The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mole percent of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85 mole percent.

The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of the copolymer in a 30% dipropylene glycol solution, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

The average molecular weight (Mw) of the above aminosilicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.

1. Alkylaminosilicones correspondant aux formules (K' et K) ci-dessous :

Examples include silicones marketed under the names SILSOFT A-843 or SILSOFT A+ by Momentive.

1. Alkylaminosilicones corresponding to the formulas (K' and K) below:

• R, R' et R" représentent indépendamment un groupe hydroxy ou alkyle en C₁-C_4,
• A représente un groupe alkylène en C₃et m et n sont tels que la masse moléculaire moyenne en poids du composé est comprise entre 5 000 et 500 000 environ ;

in which:

• R, R' and R" independently represent a hydroxyl or alkyl group at _C1 - _C4,
• A represents a _C3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the compound is between approximately 5,000 and 500,000;

• x et y sont des nombres allant de 1 à 5 000 ; préférablement, x va de 10 à 2 000 et en particulier, de 100 à 1 000 ; préférablement, y va de 1 à 100 ;
• R1 et R2 indépendamment de préférence identiques, sont des groupes alkyle linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés, comprenant 6 à 30 atomes de carbone, préférablement 8 à 24 atomes de carbone et en particulier, 12 à 20 atomes de carbone ;
• A désigne un groupe alkylène linéaire ou ramifié contenant 2 à 8 atomes de carbone.

in which:

• x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5,000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2,000 and in particular, from 100 to 1,000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;
• R1 and R2 independently, preferably identical, are linear or branched alkyl groups, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular, 12 to 20 carbon atoms;
• A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular, 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched.

We can cite in particular the following divalent groups: -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -.

Preferably, R1 and R2 are independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; particular examples include dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferably R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from among the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

• x allant de 10 à 2 000 et notamment de 100 à 1 000 ;
• y allant de 1 à 100 ;

Preferably, the silicone has formula (K) with:

• x ranging from 10 to 2,000 and in particular from 100 to 1,000;
• ranging from 1 to 100;

• R1 et R2 étant indépendamment des groupes alkyle saturés linéaires comprenant 6 à 30 atomes de carbone, préférablement 8 à 24 atomes de carbone et notamment 12 à 20 atomes de carbone ; choisis en particulier parmi les groupes dodécyle, tétradécyle, pentadécyle, hexadécyle, heptadécyle, octadécyle, nonadécyle et eicosyle ; préférentiellement, R1 et R2, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, étant choisis parmi les groupes hexadécyle (cétyle) et octadécyle (stéaryle).

A comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms and, in particular, 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from _the following divalent groups: _{-CH₂CH₂CH₂- and -CH₂CH} ( _CH₃ ) _CH₂- ; and

• R1 and R2 being independently linear saturated alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferably, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

A preferred formula silicone (K) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone.

One example is silicone marketed under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.

The aminosilicones in this disclosure may also be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, for example terminal or lateral aminopropyl groups, for example those of formula (A), (B) or (C):

In formula (A): the value of n is such that the average molecular mass by weight of silicone is between 500 and 55,000. Examples of aminosilicone (A) include those marketed under the names DMS-A11, DMS-A12, DMS-A15, DMS-A21, DMS-A31, DMS-A32 and DMS-A35 by the company Gelest.

In formula (B), the values of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of silicone is between 1,000 and 55,000. Examples of silicone (B) include those marketed under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by Gelest and KF-8015 by Shin-Etsu Chemical.

In formula (C), the value of n is such that the average molecular mass by weight of silicone is between 500 and 3,000. As an example of silicone (C), we can cite those marketed under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

Preferably, the aminosilicone (c) according to the present invention is amodimethicone such as amodimethicone marketed under the name KF 8020 from the supplier Shin-Etsu Chemical, or the name SILSOFT 253 from the supplier MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS. Another preferred aminosilicone is an amodimethicone of formula (F) marketed under the trade name XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow.

In other embodiments, the aminosilicone (c) according to the present invention is selected from bis-cetearyl amodimethicone (marketed under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive).

Another preferred aminosilicone (c) which can be used in the composition of the present invention is aminopropyldimethicone, for example, aminopropyldimethicone marketed under the name KF-8015 from Shin-Etsu Chemical.

Aminosilicones suitable for use according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, volatile and non-volatile, cyclic, linear and branched aminosilicones having a viscosity ranging from 5× ^10⁻⁶ to 2.5 ^m² /s at 25°C, for example, from 1× ^10⁻⁵ to 1 ^m² /s.

It is preferable to choose aminosilicone (c) from the group consisting of aminodimethicone, aminopropyldimethicone and a mixture of these.

The amount of aminosilicone or aminosilicones (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of aminosilicone or aminosilicones (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, the quantity of aminosilicone or aminosilicones (c) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Water)

The composition according to the present invention may include (d) water.

Thus, if the composition according to the present invention includes water (d), the composition according to the present invention is not anhydrous.

The quantity of water (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the quantity of water (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of water (d) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 20% to 95% by weight, preferably from 30% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Betaine compound)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one betaine compound. Only one type of betaine compound (e) may be used, or two or more different types of compounds (e) may be used in combination.

The term "betaine compound" here refers to an amphoteric compound having a positively charged cationic fraction and a negatively charged anionic fraction, in which no hydrogen atom is bonded to a positively charged atom in the positively charged cationic fraction and the positively charged cationic fraction may not be adjacent to the negatively charged anionic fraction.

For the purposes of the present invention, the betaine (e) compound here is not a surfactant, which comprises at least one hydrophilic part and at least one hydrophobic part.

The positively charged cationic fraction in the betaine(e) compound includes, but is not limited to, a quaternary ammonium cation, a phosphonium cation, and a sulfonium cation. Preferably, the betaine(e) compound includes a quaternary ammonium cation as the positively charged cationic fraction.

The negatively charged anionic fraction in the betaine (e) compound includes, but is not limited to, a carboxylate anion.

The compound betaine (e) may be chosen from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, carnitine, L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof, and may preferably be trimethylglycine.

The amount of the betaine compound(s) (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of the betaine compound(s) (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the betaine compound(s) (e) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Fat amine)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one fatty amine. Two or more fatty amines may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty amine or a combination of different types of fatty amines may be used.

The term "fatty amines" refers to primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally (poly)oxyalkylated, or salts thereof. Fatty amines generally comprise at least one _C6 - _C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amines according to the present invention are not quaternized.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises (f) at least one fatty amine comprising at least one _C6 - _{C30 hydrocarbon chain.}

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises (f) at least one fatty amine selected from the tertiary fatty amines.

More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty tertiary amines selected from fatty amidoamines.

The fatty amine (f) which can be used in the context of the present invention can be chosen from the fatty amines of formula (IV) below:

RN(R') ₂ (IV)

• R représente un radical hydrocarboné monovalent contenant de 6 à 30 atomes de carbone, préférablement de 8 à 24 atomes de carbone, et en particulier, un radical alkyle en C₆-C₃₀, préférablement en C₈-C₂₄, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé et substitué ou non substitué, préférablement un radical alkyle en C₆-C₃₀, mieux encore en C₈-C₂₄, linéaire ou ramifié ou un radical alcényle en C₆-C₃₀, préférablement en C₈-C₂₄, linéaire ou ramifié ; et
• R', qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, représentent un radical hydrocarboné monovalent, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé et substitué ou non substitué contenant moins de 6 atomes de carbone, préférablement de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone, préférablement un radical méthyle.

in which:

• R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular, a _C6 - _C30 alkyl radical, preferably _C8 - _C24 , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a _C6 - _C30 alkyl radical, preferably _C8 - _C24 , linear or branched, or a _C6 - _C30 alkenyl radical, preferably _C8 - _C24 , linear or branched; and
• R', which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

The fatty amine (f) corresponding to formula (IV) above may be chosen, for example, from dimethyllauramine, dimethylbehenamine, dimethylcocamine, dimethylmyristamine, dimethylpalmitamine, dimethylstearamine, dimethyltallowamine, dimethylsoyamine and mixtures thereof.

The fatty amine (f) which can be used in the context of the present invention can also be chosen from fatty amidoamines, preferably fatty amidoamines of formula (V) below:

R-CO-N(H)-R''-N(R') ₂ (V)

in which:

R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a _C5 - _C29 alkyl radical, preferably _C7 - _C23 , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a _C5 - _C29 alkyl radical, even better a _C5 - _C23 , linear or branched, or a _C5 - _C29 alkenyl radical, preferably _C7 - _C23 , linear or branched;

R′', which may be identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms; and

R', which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

The fatty amine (f) corresponding to formula (V) above may be chosen, for example, from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine marketed by Inolex Chemical Company under the name Lexamine S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, lacocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty amine (f) can be chosen from among the fatty amidoamines, preferably from among the fatty amidoamines of formula (V) above.

It is preferable that the fatty amine (f) be stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

The chemical structure of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine can be represented by formula (VI) below:
(VI)

• R désigne un groupe alkyle en C₁₇pour la stéaramidopropyl diméthylamine.

in which

• R denotes an alkyl group at _C17 for stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

Therefore, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention include stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

The amount of the fatty amine or amines (f) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the fatty amine or amines (f) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, the quantity of the fatty amine or amines (f) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Oil)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (g) at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.

Here, "oil" refers to a fatty compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid, paste, or solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils (g), those commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, silicone oil or similar; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture of these.

The oil (f) can be chosen from the group consisting of vegetable or animal origin oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.

Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, jojoba esters, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

Ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched _C1 - _C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched _C1 - _C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

Examples of monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols include ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isonanoate, isononyl isonanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

One can also use esters of dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids in _C4 - _C22 and of alcohols in _C1 - _C22 , and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols in _C4 - _C26 .

Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

Ester oils can be made from C6-C30 fatty acid sugar esters and diesters, preferably C12-C22. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to hydrocarbon compounds containing oxygen, multiple alcohol groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that can be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

Sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in _C6 - _C30 and preferably in _C12 - _C22 . If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

In particular, monoesters and diesters are used, including monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

One example that can be mentioned is the product marketed under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).

Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, silicone oils are chosen from among liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils can also be organo-modified. The organo-modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those with a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more specifically from:

Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7, and preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. Examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, marketed in particular under the names Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, marketed under the names Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, marketed under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, as well as mixtures thereof. Also noteworthy are dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane cyclocopolymers, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, marketed by Union Carbide, with the formula:

We can also mention mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2',2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

(ii) Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 × ^{10⁻⁶ m²} /s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, marketed notably under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics . The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are most often chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, of which polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups are particularly noteworthy.

• les huiles Silbione® des gammes 47 et 70 047 ou les huiles Mirasil® commercialisées par Rhodia, par exemple l’huile 70 047 V 500 000 ;
• les huiles de la gamme Mirasil® commercialisées par la société Rhodia ;
• les huiles de la gamme 200 de la société Dow Corning, telles que la DC200 avec une viscosité de 60 000 mm²/s ;
• les huiles Viscasil^®de General Electric et certaines huiles de la gamme SF (SF 96, SF 18) de General Electric.

Examples of these polydialkylsiloxanes include, but are not limited to, the following commercial products:

• Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils marketed by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;
• the oils from the Mirasil® range marketed by the company Rhodia;
• oils from the 200 series by Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 ^mm² /s;
• Viscasil ^® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.

• les huiles Silbione® de la gamme 70 641 de Rhodia ;
• les huiles des gammes Rhodorsil® 70 633 et 763 de Rhodia ;
• l’huile DOWSIL^TM556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid de Dow ;
• les silicones de la gamme PK de Bayer, comme le produit PK20 ;
• certaines huiles de la gamme SF de General Electric, comme SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 et SF 1265.

Silicones containing aryl groups include polydiarylsiloxanes, notably polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples include products marketed under the following names:

• Rhodia's Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range;
• the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;
• DOWSIL ^TM 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow;
• silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as product PK20;
• certain oils from General Electric's SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

Organomodified liquid silicones may contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone from Shin-Etsu Chemical and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

• des alcanes inférieurs en C₆-C₁₆, linéaires ou ramifiés, facultativement cycliques. Des exemples qui peuvent être cités incluent hexane, undécane, dodécane, tridécane et isoparaffines, par exemple, isohexadécane, isododécane et isodécane ; et
• les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés contenant plus de 16 atomes de carbone, tels que paraffines liquides, gelée de pétrole liquide, polydécènes et polyisobutènes hydrogénés tels que Parleam et squalane.

Hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:

• lower _C6 - _C16 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that can be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and
• linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for instance, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petroleum jelly or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene/butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the oil (g) be chosen from among the polar oils, more preferably ester oils, and even more preferably monoester oils.

The quantity of oil or oils (g) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the quantity of oil or oils (g) in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of oil or oils (g) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Fat alcohol]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (h) at least one fatty alcohol. Only one type of fatty alcohol may be used, or two or more different types of fatty alcohol may be used in combination.

The term "fatty" here refers to the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols with 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms, fall within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. A fatty alcohol can be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols can be used in combination.

Fatty alcohols (h) can have the structure R-OH, in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from _C12 - _C24 alkyl and _C12 - _C24 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohol (h) include lauric alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty alcohol can represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, meaning that several species of fatty alcohols can coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).

It is preferable that the fatty alcohol (h) be chosen from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

The amount of alcohol or fatty alcohols (h) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the quantity of alcohol or fatty alcohols (h) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of alcohol or fatty alcohols (h) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(pH)

The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 7 or less, preferably of 6 or less and more preferably of 5 or less, which is measured at 25 °C.

The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 3 or more, which is measured at 25 °C.

The composition according to the present invention can have a pH of 3 to 7, preferably of 3 to 6 and more preferably of 3 to 5, which is measured at 25 °C.

(Alkaline agent)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkali agent. Two or more alkali agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkali agent or a combination of different types of alkali agents may be used.

The alkaline agent is different from the fatty amine (f).

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention include one or more alkaline agent(s), if compound (a) or compound (b) can be used to reduce the pH of the composition.

The alkali agent may be an inorganic alkali. Preferably, the alkali agent should be non-volatile. Preferably, the inorganic alkali agent should be chosen from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates, and alkali metal monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferred as inorganic alkali reagents.

The alkali agent can be an organic alkali. It is preferable that the organic alkali be chosen from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines.

Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines such as mono-, di-, and tri-ethanolamine, comprising 1 to 3 _C1 - _C4 hydroxyalkyl groups. In particular, alkanolamines can be selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

Diamines can be described by the structure (B) below:
(B)

in which W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a _C1 - _C4 hydroxyl or alkyl radical, and _Ra , _Rb , _Rc and _Rd independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a _C1 - _C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.

The quantity of the alkali agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the quantity of the alkali agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, the quantity of alkali agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Acid)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one acid that is different from compound (a) or compound (b). Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.

The acid can be used to correct the pH of the composition according to the present invention.

As for acids, we can mention all the inorganic or organic acids that are commonly used in cosmetic products, such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid, or hydrochloric acid (HCl). HCl is preferable.

The amount of acid or acids in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the quantity of the acid or acids in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, the quantity of the acid or acids in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Other optional ingredients)

The composition according to the present invention may also include at least one other optional ingredient, selected in particular from: anionic and amphoteric surfactants; thickeners; sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; antibacterial agents such as benzoic acid; preservatives such as phenoxyethanol; chelating agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizers or coalescers; fillers; emulsifiers; polymers, in particular conditioning polymers such as cationic polymers; perfumes; silanes; crosslinking agents; and surfactants including anionic, cationic, amphoteric, and nonionic surfactants. The composition may, of course, include several cosmetic ingredients listed above.

The composition according to the present invention may include one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and caprylyl glycol; other polyols such as glycerol; and ethers such as monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of propylene glycol and monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of butylene glycol.

Depending on their nature and the purpose of the composition, the above-mentioned optional ingredient(s) may be present in normal quantities that can be easily determined by a person skilled in the art and which may be, for each ingredient, between 0.01% and 80% by weight. A person skilled in the art shall take care to select the ingredients included in the composition, as well as their quantities, so as not to impair the properties of the compositions used for the present invention.

(Ammonia and thiol compound)

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention should be free of ammonia or thiol compounds. The expression "free of ammonia or thiol compounds" means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of ammonia or a thiol compound. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of ammonia or thiol compounds, in particular no ammonia or thiol compounds.

Due to the very small amount or absence of ammonia and/or thiol compound, the bad odor during the use of the composition according to the present invention can be reduced or prevented.

The compound thiol here refers to a compound that has at least one thiol group (-SH).

The thiol compound can be a reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent can be selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol monothiolactate; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and its derivatives, in particular its _C1 - _C4 acyl derivatives such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; monothioglycerol and its derivatives, in particular its esters; cysteine and its derivatives, including its esters such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alcanoylcysteine and alkyl esters of cysteine; thioglycerin and its derivatives, including its s-alkyl derivatives; and salts thereof.

Examples of the above-mentioned salts include ammonium salts; primary, secondary, and tertiary amine salts; alkali metal salts; and alkaline earth metal salts. Primary, secondary, and tertiary amines, for example, include monoethanolamine, diisopropanolamine, and triethanolamine, respectively.

Other examples of thiol reducing agents include, but are not limited to, sugar N-mercapto alkyl amides such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, β-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives; thiomalic acid; panthetin; N-(mercaptoalkyl)ω-hydroxyalkyl amides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 354 835 and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butyramides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 368 763; aminomercaptoalkyl amides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 432 000 and alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 514 282; 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate (2/3) and the mixture based on 2-hydroxymethyl-1-ethyl thioglycolate (67/33) described in French patent application no. 2,679,448.

(Reducing agent and oxidizing agent)

The composition according to the present invention may include a reducing agent; however, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention include a reduced amount of reducing agent or oxidizing agent, preferably be free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent.

The expression "free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent" means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of reducing agent or oxidizing agent. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, in particular no reducing agent or no oxidizing agent.

The reducing agent can be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent is as described above.

The term "non-thiol reducing agent" here refers to a reducing agent without a thiol group. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones, and hydrides. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfites and bisulfites, as well as metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal sulfites and bisulfites, and more preferably from sodium sulfites and bisulfites.

The oxidizing agent can be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, and compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent can be chosen from an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates.

(Shape)

The compositions used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O/W, W/O or multiple type (if the composition according to the present invention includes at least one oil); a soft consistency suspension or emulsion of the cream (O/W) or (W/O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.

The compositions used for the present invention can be in any pharmaceutical form. For example, the compositions used for the present invention can be in the form of any hair treatment in general, such as a cream, lotion, gel, or similar product.

The composition according to the present invention can be used to treat, preferably remodel and more preferably smooth keratinous fibers such as hair.

[Process]

1. application de la composition selon la présente invention sur les fibres kératineuses ;

1. rinçage facultatif des fibres kératineuses avec ou sans séchage des fibres kératineuses après rinçage ; et
2. remodelage, de préférence lissage, des fibres kératineuses, préférablement à une température de plus de 50 ºC, plus préférablement, de plus de 100 ºC et encore plus préférablement, de plus de 150 ºC.

The present invention also relates to a method for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps:

1. application of the composition according to the present invention on keratinous fibers;

1. Optional rinsing of keratin fibers with or without drying of the keratin fibers after rinsing; and
2. remodeling, preferably smoothing, of keratinous fibers, preferably at a temperature of more than 50°C, more preferably, of more than 100°C and even more preferably, of more than 150°C.

Details of the composition used in the process according to the present invention are explained in the section entitled [Composition] above.

The process according to the present invention is intended for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers, such as hair, more preferably for long-term smoothing and even more preferably for smoothing even after several shampoos. In this sense, the process according to the present invention can be a semi-permanent remodeling, preferably smoothing, process.

It is best to clean the keratin fibers before step (i). This cleaning step can be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratin fibers and then rinsing them. After rinsing, the keratin fibers can be dried. It is preferable that the keratin fibers be damp just before step (i).

In step (i), the composition according to the present invention, which is explained above, is applied to keratinous fibers such as hair. The application of the composition according to the present invention can be carried out by any means, such as a brush or a comb.

The bath ratio of the composition applied according to the present invention to the keratinous fibers can range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.3 and 2. The expression "bath ratio" is intended to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the applied composition and the total weight of the keratinous fibers.

It may be possible, after application of the composition according to the present invention, to leave the keratinous fibers as they are for a certain period of time; generally from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes, and more preferably from 3 to 10 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow the composition to penetrate the keratinous fibers.

After step (i), the process according to the present invention may include the optional step of (ii) rinsing the keratinous fibers with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing.

Thus, if step (ii) is present, the keratin fibers are rinsed to remove the composition according to the present invention from the keratin fibers. The rinsing step can be carried out with water. It is preferable that the keratin fibers not be dried after rinsing. Drying of the keratin fibers can be carried out with a conventional drying method such as a hairdryer.

On the other hand, if step (ii) is not present, the keratinous fibers can be treated by step (iii) after step (i), without rinsing.

In step (iii), the keratin fibers, which are preferably dry, are subjected to remodeling, preferably smoothing, preferably at a temperature above 50°C, more preferably above 100°C, and even more preferably above 150°C, with a heating element, such as a heated iron or a heated curling iron. This temperature may be below 250°C, preferably below 240°C, and more preferably below 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50°C and below 250°C, preferably above 100°C and below 240°C, and more preferably above 150°C and below 230°C.

Reshaping can be achieved by supplying keratin fibers with any mechanical force, such as mechanical tension. Mechanical tension can be applied to the keratin fibers by any reshaping device to deform them into a desired shape. For example, mechanical force can be supplied by at least one reshaping device chosen from the group consisting of at least one iron, at least one curler, at least one comb, and a combination thereof. Any conventional iron, curler, or comb can be used as a reshaping device. A hair dryer that can blow gas, such as air, can also be used as a reshaping device.

The styling device may include at least one heating element. Thus, the styling device may be at least one heated iron and/or at least one heated curler and/or at least one heated comb and/or at least one heated hair dryer that can blow hot gas such as hot air. It may be preferable to use at least one heated iron and/or at least one heated curler.

Any standard hot iron can be used as a heating tool. The hot iron should have at least one plate, preferably two, which can be heated, for example, by an electric heater. The heated plate(s) can be applied to the keratin fibers and moved in the direction of the fibers to smooth them.

It is preferable that the heating iron has two plates, and that the keratin fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heating iron, in which at least one of the plates can be heated, then the two plates are moved in the direction of the keratin fibers to smooth them.

It is preferable that the heating iron, in particular a part of it in contact with keratinous fibers, such as a heating plate or heating plates, has a temperature of more than 50 °C and less than 250 °C, more preferably, of more than 100 °C and less than 240 °C, and even more preferably, of more than 150 °C and less than 230 °C.

Step (iii) can be performed by one or more passes of the heating iron in the direction of the keratin fibers. Step (iii) can be controlled not only by the temperature of the heating iron but also by the number of passes of the heating iron.

The heating time can depend on the temperature of the iron, but also on the number of times the iron is passed over the surface. It can range, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes, and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

Any standard heated roller can be used as a heated roller. When wrapping keratin fibers around a heated roller, this wrapping can be done along the entire length of the fibers or, for example, half their length. Depending on factors such as the desired hairstyle and the number of curls, the wrapping can be done with thicker or thinner sections of hair.

It is preferable that the heated curler, in particular a part of it in contact with keratinous fibers, such as a heating rod or a heating sleeve, has a temperature of more than 50 °C and less than 250 °C, more preferably, of more than 100 °C and less than 240 °C, and even more preferably, of more than 150 °C and less than 230 °C.

Step (iii) can be carried out by holding the keratin fibers on a heated roller so that mechanical tension is applied to the keratin fibers. Step (iii) can be controlled not only by the temperature of the heated roller but also by the strength of the mechanical tension.

The heating time can depend on the temperature of the heated roller as well as the strength of the mechanical tension. It can range, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes, and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

If necessary, before step (ii), mechanical tension may be applied to the keratinous fibers as explained above.

[Kit]

The present invention also relates to a kit for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:

at least one chosen from the group consisting of an iron, a curler, a comb, a hairdryer and a combination thereof, preferably at least one heated iron, heated curler, heated comb or heated hairdryer that is capable of supplying the keratin fibers with a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C and more preferably above 150°C; and

the composition according to the present invention.

Any conventional iron or curler, including any conventional heated iron or heated curler, can be used as the above iron or curler in the kit according to the present invention.

The heating element in the kit is not limited as long as it can heat the keratin fibers to a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, and more preferably above 150°C. This temperature may be below 250°C, preferably below 240°C, and more preferably below 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50°C and below 250°C, preferably above 100°C and below 240°C, and more preferably above 150°C and below 230°C.

The iron or curler, as well as the composition, in the kit according to the present invention can be used as explained in the section entitled [Method] above.

Details of the composition used in the kit according to the present invention are explained in the section entitled [Composition] above.

[Use]

1. au moins un composé choisi dans le groupe consistant en acide glyoxylique, solvates d’acide glyoxylique, sels d’acide glyoxylique, esters d’acide glyoxylique, amides d’acide glyoxylique et des mélanges de ceux-ci ; et

1. au moins un composé, différent du composé (a), choisi dans le groupe consistant en des acides cétoniques, des sels de ceux-ci et des mélanges de ceux-ci

The present invention may relate to the use of (c) at least one aminosilicone in a composition for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, preferably with heating, comprising:

1. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; and

1. at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketone acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof

in order to prolong the remodeling effects for keratin fibers treated by the composition, in particular in order to further maintain the smoothed shape of keratin fibers, or to prevent or reduce waviness of keratin fibers.

Heating is not limited as long as it can heat the keratin fibers to a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, and more preferably above 150°C. This temperature may be below 250°C, preferably below 240°C, and more preferably below 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50°C and below 250°C, preferably above 100°C and below 240°C, and more preferably above 150°C and below 230°C.

The above composition may further comprise (d) water and/or (e) at least one betaine compound and/or (f) at least one fatty amine and/or (g) at least one oil and/or (h) at least one fatty alcohol.

The above explanations concerning compound (a), compound (b) and aminosilicone (c), as well as water (d), betaine compound (e), fatty amine (f), oil (g) and fatty alcohol (h), can be applied to those in the above composition used for use according to the present invention.

EXAMPLES

We will describe the present invention in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[Examples 1-4 and comparative example 1]

[Preparation]

Each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 4 and comparative example 1 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1. The numerical values for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on the "% by weight" as raw materials.

The concentration of amodimethicone or aminopropyldimethicone in the composition according to examples 1 to 4 has been adjusted to be 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex.
comp. 1 Cetearyl alcohol 8 8 8 8 8 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Cetyl esters 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Isopropyl myristate 6 6 6 6 6 Glycerin 4 4 4 4 4 Glyoxylic acid (50% by weight of MA) (1) 3.6 3.6 3.6 3.6 3.6 Levulinic acid (60% by weight of MA) (2) 1.03 1.03 1.03 1.03 1.03 Betaine 1 1 1 1 1 pH adjuster qs pH 3.2 qs pH 3.2 qs pH 3.2 qs pH 3.2 qs pH 3.2 Ethanol 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 Amodimethicone (and) trideceth-5 (and) amodimethicone (and) trideceth-10
(Wacker BELSIL ADM LOG 1, amodimethicone concentration: 15% by weight) 3.38 - - - - Amodimethicone (and) cetrimonium chloride (and) trideceth-3 (and) trideceth-15 (and) acetic acid
(Dow DOWSIL 969 emulsion, amodimethicone concentration: 31% by weight) - 1.61 - - - Aminopropyldimethicone (X-22-9686 from Shin Etsu, aminopropyldimethicone concentration: 55% by weight) - - 0.91 - - Amodimethicone (and) trideceth-6 (and) cetrimonium chloride
(Dow MEM-8299 Xiameter, amodimethicone concentration: 57% by weight) - - - 0.88 - Conservative 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Smoothing effects (T0/T1sh) 5/4 5/4 5/3 5/2 5/2 Surface (T0/T1sh) 1091/1165 1107/1194 1000/1241 970/1262 1003/1494 Increased surface area (%) +7 +8 +24 +30 +49

1. commercialisé par la société WEYLCHEM sous le nom GLYOXO-HIGH PURE 50 (contenant 50 % de matière active).
2. commercialisé par la société DR STRAETMANS (EVONIK) sous le nom DERMOSOFT 700 B (contenant 60 % de matière active).

MA: Active ingredient

1. marketed by the company WEYLCHEM under the name GLYOXO-HIGH PURE 50 (containing 50% active ingredient).
2. marketed by the company DR STRAETMANS (EVONIK) under the name DERMOSOFT 700 B (containing 60% active ingredient).

[Reviews]

1. On a shampooiné une mèche de cheveux de cheveux noirs chinois naturels, légèrement ondulés, d’une longueur de 27 cm avec un shampooing SLES, dont la composition est indiquée dans le tableau 2 ci-dessous. On a rincé soigneusement la mèche de cheveux à l’eau du robinet.

Each of the above compositions was used to smooth a strand of hair, and then the strand of hair was evaluated according to the following protocols.

1. A strand of natural, slightly wavy, black Chinese hair, 27 cm in length, was shampooed with an SLES shampoo, the composition of which is indicated in Table 2 below. The strand of hair was then thoroughly rinsed with tap water.

% by weight Water qsp 100 Coco-betaine (30% by weight) 9 Sodium laureth sulfate (70% by weight) 15 Polyquaternium-10 0.3 Conservatives 0.7 pH adjuster qs pH 5.3

1. Each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 4 and comparative example 1 was applied in an amount of 0.6 g to the wet strand of hair.
2. The strand of hair was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C).
3. The lock of hair was carefully rinsed under tap water.
4. The strand of hair was dried with a hair dryer (Nobby NB3100, TESCOM DENKI Co., Ltd, Japan) for approximately 90 seconds until it was dry.
5. We straightened the strand of hair in 3 passes with a straightener (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180°C, 4 seconds/pass.
6. The level of smoothness of the hair strand was visually assessed immediately after step 6 (for the smoothing effect at T0) according to the following criteria.

5: Very good

4: Good

3: Correct

2: Bad

1: Very bad

1. On a pris une photo de la mèche de cheveux juste après l’étape 6, et on a déterminé la surface (exprimée par le nombre de pixels) de la mèche de cheveux à l’aide d’un logiciel libre du domaine public, Image J. Les résultats sont présentés à gauche de « / » sur la ligne « Surface (T0/T1sh) » du tableau 1.
2. On a shampooiné à nouveau la mèche de cheveux avec le shampooing SLES, dont la composition est indiquée dans le tableau 2, on l'a rincée abondamment à l’eau du robinet et on l'a séchée au sèche-cheveux (pendant environ 90 secondes jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit sèche).
3. On a évalué à nouveau le niveau de lissage et la surface de la mèche de cheveux comme ci-dessus (T1sh). Les résultats sont présentés à droite de « / » sur les lignes « Effets de lissage (T0/T1sh) » et « Surface (T0/T1sh) » du Tableau 1.
4. La surface augmentée entre T0 et T1sh a été calculée. Les résultats sont présentés sur la ligne « Surface augmentée (%) » du tableau 1.

The results are presented to the left of "/" on the "Smoothing effects (T0/T1sh)" line of Table 1.

1. A photo was taken of the hair strand just after step 6, and the surface area (expressed by the number of pixels) of the hair strand was determined using free software in the public domain, Image J. The results are presented to the left of "/" on the "Surface (T0/T1sh)" line of Table 1.
2. The hair strand was shampooed again with the SLES shampoo, the composition of which is indicated in Table 2, rinsed thoroughly with tap water and dried with a hairdryer (for about 90 seconds until dry).
3. The level of smoothing and the surface area of the hair strand were reassessed as above (T1sh). The results are presented to the right of "/" on the "Smoothing Effects (T0/T1sh)" and "Surface Area (T0/T1sh)" rows of Table 1.
4. The increased area between T0 and T1sh was calculated. The results are presented in the "Increased Area (%)" row of Table 1.

The evaluation results in Table 1 show that the use of an aminosilicone with a combination of glyoxylic acid and levulinic acid can better maintain the smoothed shape of the hair or reduce the increase in hair volume, which reflects hair straightening or waving, than the use of the combination of glyoxylic acid and levulinic acid alone.

Claims (10)

Composition intended for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising:
(a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;
(b) at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketone acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof; and
(c) at least one aminosilicone. Composition according to claim 1, wherein compound (b) is selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture of these. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein aminosilicone (c) is selected from the group consisting of aminodimethicone, aminopropyldimethicone and a mixture thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition further comprises (d) water. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one betaine compound. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition further comprises (f) at least one fatty amine. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the pH of the composition is 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, which is intended to remodel, preferably smooth, keratinous fibers, such as hair. A remodeling process, preferably for smoothing, of keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising the following steps:
(i) application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 on keratinous fibers;
(ii) optional rinsing of the keratinous fibers with or without drying of the keratinous fibers after rinsing; and
(iii) remodeling, preferably smoothing, of keratinous fibers, preferably at a temperature of more than 50°C, more preferably, of more than 100°C and even more preferably, of more than 150°C. Kit for reshaping, preferably smoothing, keratin fibers such as hair, including:
at least one chosen from the group consisting of an iron, a curler, a comb, a hairdryer and a combination thereof, preferably at least one heated iron, heated curler, heated comb or heated hairdryer that is capable of supplying the keratin fibers with a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C and more preferably above 150°C; and
the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8.