FR3150428A1 - Composition comprising a particular carboxylic acid or one of its salts, a (bi)carbonate in a particular content, an additional alkaline agent, a fatty substance and a colorant. - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprising a particular carboxylic acid or one of its salts, a (bi)carbonate in a particular content, an additional alkaline agent, a fatty substance and a dye. The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one particular carboxylic acid or one of its salts, a (bi)carbonate in a particular content, an additional alkaline agent, a fatty substance and a dye.

Description

Composition comprising a particular carboxylic acid or one of its salts, a (bi)carbonate in a particular amount, an additional alkaline agent, a fat and a color.

The invention relates to a composition comprising a particular carboxylic acid or one of its salts, at least one (bi)carbonate in a particular content, at least one additional alkaline agent, at least one fat and at least one colorant.

The invention also relates to a process for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair, using this composition.

The invention also relates to the use of such a composition for coloring keratin fibers, and in particular hair.

For a long time, many people have sought to change the color of their hair, and in particular to cover their gray hair.

In the field of hair keratin fiber coloring, particularly human hair, it is already known to color hair keratin fibers by different techniques from direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent colorings or from dye precursors for permanent colorings.

There are essentially three types of hair coloring processes:
a) so-called permanent coloring which has the function of bringing about a significant change in the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate the hair fiber and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation;
b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not implement the oxidative condensation process and resists 4 or 5 shampoos; consists of dyeing the keratin fibers with dyeing compositions containing direct dyes;
c) Temporary hair coloring, which results in a change to the natural hair color that lasts from one shampoo to the next and is used to enhance or correct an existing shade. It can also be considered a "makeup" procedure.

It is known to dye keratin fibers, particularly human keratin fibers such as hair, to obtain so-called permanent colors using dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, including oxidation bases such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols, or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones, or pyrazolopyridines. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing agents, can give rise to colored compounds through an oxidative condensation process.

It is also possible to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases by combining them with couplers or color modifiers. The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers allows for a rich palette of colors.

However, the implementation of these dyeing compositions can present a number of disadvantages.

Indeed, after application to keratin fibers, the dyeing power obtained may not be entirely satisfactory, or even weak, and lead to a limited range of colors.

Hair dyes may also not be sufficiently resistant to external agents such as light, shampoos, perspiration, and may also be too selective, meaning that the difference in color is too great along the same keratin fiber which is differently sensitized between its tip and its root.

Consumers are also looking for more environmentally friendly hair coloring products, particularly those based on naturally derived ingredients, that offer good performance, are easy to use, and provide good coloring results.

The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern in order to help meet global challenges.

It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions that can address these environmental challenges.

Thus, there is a real need to make available a coloring composition for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, that is more environmentally friendly and capable of producing good color rise, intensity and chromaticity, while having low selectivity and good tenacity, including good shampoo retention, and capable of producing good dyeing performance, even after a period of storage, while having good usability and maintaining good sensory performance, particularly in terms of shine, softness, suppleness, smoothness, and detangling of keratin fibers such as hair.

These and other goals are achieved by the present invention, which therefore relates to a composition comprising:
1) at least one polycarboxylic acid of the following formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and/or their solvates :

R ₁ -N-(CH(R ₂ )COOH) ₂ (I) in which
R ₁ represents a hydrogen atom or a -CH(COOH)-(CH ₂ ) ₂ -COOH group,
-CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CH(CH ₃ )COOH, -(CH ₂ ) ₂ N(COR ₃ )-CH ₂ -COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH ₂ -COOH; And
_R2 represents a _CH2COOH group when _R1 represents a hydrogen atom, or _R2 represents a hydrogen atom when _R1 is not a hydrogen atom; and
R ₃ represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a cyclic group containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms;
2) at least one (bi) carbonate, the total (bi)carbonate content being greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
3) at least one additional alkali agent;
4) at least one fat; and
5) at least one colorant.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a composition for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair.

The composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to produce chromatic, powerful, intense and not very selective colours, that is to say colours which are homogeneous along the fibre.

The composition according to the invention exhibits improved shampoo retention, as well as good stability over time, including little or no change in its viscosity during storage.

The composition according to the invention has good performance qualities, particularly in terms of texture, ease of application, adhesion to hair, and lengthening.

The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to achieve good cosmetic qualities, particularly in terms of shine, softness, suppleness, a more natural feel, while preserving the integrity of the fiber.

The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to provide cosmetic compositions for keratin fibers that do not have a strong ammonia odor.

The invention also relates to a method of coloring hair using the composition of the invention.

The invention also relates to a kit comprising in a first compartment a composition as defined above and in a second compartment an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

By " chemical oxidizing agent " according to the invention, we mean an oxidizing agent other than oxygen from the air.

Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

Furthermore, the expression " at least one " used in this description is equivalent to the expression " one or more ".

Specific polycarboxylic acid

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polycarboxylic acid of the following formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and/or their solvates 1):

R ₁ -N-(CH(R ₂ )COOH) ₂ (I) in which
R ₁ represents a hydrogen atom or a -CH(COOH)-(CH ₂ ) ₂ -COOH group,
-CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CH(CH ₃ )COOH, -(CH ₂ ) ₂ N(COR ₃ )-CH ₂ -COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH ₂ -COOH; And
_R2 represents a _CH2COOH group when _R1 represents a hydrogen atom, or _R2 represents a hydrogen atom when _R1 is not a hydrogen atom; and
R ₃ represents a linear or branched alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a cyclic group with 3 to 30 carbon atoms.

More specifically, carboxylic acids of formula (I) correspond to:
- compounds comprising four carboxylic acid functions, when R₁represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a -CH2-COOH group, or when R₁represents the group -CH(COOH)-(CH₂)₂-COOH and R₂represents a hydrogen atom or when R₁represents the group -CH(COOH)-CH₂-COOH and R₂represents a hydrogen atom;
- compounds comprising three carboxylic acid functions, where R1 represents the -CH(CH) group₃)-COOH and R₂represents a hydrogen atom, or when R₁represents a group -(CH₂)₂-N(COR₃)-CH₂-COOH and R₂represents a hydrogen atom; and to
- compounds comprising two carboxylic acid functions, where R1 represents the -CH group₂CH₂OH and R₂represents a hydrogen atom.

Preferably, _R1 represents the group -CH(COOH)-( _CH2 ) ₂ -COOH and _R2 represents a hydrogen atom.

Carboxylic acids of formula (I) can be in the form of pure enantiomers, preferably of L configuration, or in the form of mixtures, in particular racemic mixtures.

Salts of the carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are preferably chosen from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, transition metal salts, organic amine salts, their ammonium and substituted ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

Examples of alkali metal salts include sodium (Na ⁺ ) and potassium (K ⁺ ) salts, while examples of alkaline earth metal salts include calcium (Ca2 ⁺ ) and magnesium (Mg2 ⁺ ) salts.

For the purposes of the present invention, "transition metal" means a metal having an incomplete d subshell; more particularly in the oxidation state II, such as cobalt (Co ²⁺ ), iron (Fe ²⁺ ), manganese (Mn ²⁺ ), zinc (Zn ²⁺ ) and copper (Cu ²⁺ ).

Regarding organic amine salts, we can mention primary, secondary, or tertiary amine salts, or even alkanolamine salts. These amines have one or more radicals, identical or not, of the alkyl type, linear or branched from Cl to C2O, possibly including a heteroatom such as oxygen.

Among the salts of these compounds, alkali metal salts are preferred, and in particular sodium or potassium salts.

Preferably, the carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) used in the context of the present invention are selected from methylglycine diacetyl, N-lauroyl-N,N',N'-triacetic ethylenediamine, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and their mixtures.

Better still, the carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl) aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and their mixtures.

Preferably, the carboxylic acid of formula (I) used according to the present invention is chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its alkali metal salts, their optical isomers, and/or their geometric isomers, preferably from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-glutamate, their optical isomers, and/or their geometric isomers, better from N,N-dicarboxymethyl L-glutamic acid and/or tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)- L-glutamate) .

Preferably, the compound with the name Tetrasodium Glutamate diacetate (INCI name) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 47S marketed by Akzo Nobel should be used.

According to this embodiment, the total content of the carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and/or their solvates as defined above, ranges from 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) is or are selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl L-glutamic acid and/or tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate which may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Bicarbonate

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one (bi)carbonate, the total (bi)carbonate content 2) being greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

By "(bi)carbonate" we mean carbonate, carbonate generating system, bicarbonate, bicarbonate generating system and their mixtures.

By “carbonate generating system” we mean a system that generates carbonate in situ such as carbon dioxide in water or percarbonate in water.

By "bicarbonate generating system" we mean a system that generates bicarbonate in situ such as carbon dioxide in water or by buffering a carbonate with a mineral or organic acid.

The (bi)carbonate(s) is/are preferably chosen from:

- the carbonate(s), preferably chosen from:

a) alkali metal carbonates (Met ²⁺ , CO ₃ ^2- ), alkaline earth metal carbonates (Met' ²⁺ , CO ₃ ^2- ), ammonium carbonate NH ⁴⁺ or phosphonium carbonate (R'' ₄ P ⁺ ) ₂ ,CO ₃ ^2- with Met' representing an alkaline earth metal and Met representing an alkali metal, and R'', identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group possibly substituted such as hydroxyethyl; and their mixtures;

- the bicarbonate(s), preferably chosen:

• R’⁺, HCO3^-avec R’ représentant un atome d’hydrogène, un métal alcalin, un groupement ammonium NH⁴⁺ou un groupement phosphonium R’’₄P⁺- où R’’, identiques ou différents, représentent un atome d’hydrogène, un groupement (C₁-C₆)alkyle éventuellement substitué tel qu’hydroxyéthyle- et lorsque R’ représente un atome d’hydrogène l’hydrogénocarbonate est alors appelé dihydrogénocarbonate (CO₂, H₂O) ; et
• Mét’²⁺(HCO₃ ^-)₂avec Mét’ représentant un métal alcalino-terreux ;

b) compounds with the following formulas:

• R' ⁺ , HCO3 ^- with R' representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an ammonium group NH ⁴⁺ or a phosphonium group R'' ₄ P ⁺ - where R'', identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group possibly substituted such as hydroxyethyl- and when R' represents a hydrogen atom the hydrogen carbonate is then called dihydrogen carbonate (CO ₂ , H ₂ O); and
• Met' ²⁺ (HCO ₃ ^- ) ₂ with Met' representing an alkaline earth metal;

and their mixtures.

More specifically, the (bi)carbonate(s) is/are chosen from alkali metal (bi)carbonates, alkaline earth metal (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates and their mixtures; more preferably alkali metal bicarbonates, ammonium bicarbonate and their mixtures.

For example, they are chosen from among the (bi)carbonates of Na, K, Mg, Ca, ammonium (bi)carbonates and their mixtures. Preferably the (bi)carbonate(s) is/are chosen from among the (bi)carbonate of Na, the (bi)carbonate of K, the (bi)carbonates of ammonium and their mixtures, preferably Na bicarbonate, K bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate and their mixtures, even better ammonium bicarbonate.

According to one embodiment, the compound(s) are chosen from bicarbonates, bicarbonate generating systems and their mixtures, preferably from bicarbonates.

According to a preferred embodiment, the (bi)carbonate(s) is ammonium bicarbonate.

These bicarbonates can come from natural water, for example spring water from the Vichy basin, from La Roche Posay, Badoit water which are known for their content of sodium bicarbonate or soda bicarbonate [144-55-8] = _NaHCO3 , and calcium bicarbonate = Ca( _HCO3 ) ₂ .

The (bi)carbonate(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1.2% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight, better from 1.8% to 5% by weight, better still from 2% to 4% relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, bicarbonate is ammonium bicarbonate which may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1.2% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight, better from 1.8% to 5% by weight, better still from 2% to 4% relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional alkaline agent

The composition according to the invention comprises one (or more) alkaline agent(s) 3) in addition to (bi)carbonates.

Preferably, the additional alkali agent(s) may be chosen from organic alkali agents and inorganic alkali agents.

Preferably, the organic alkali metal(s) are chosen from among the organic amines whose pKb at 25°C is less than 12, and more preferably less than 10, and even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the highest basicity functional group. Furthermore, the organic amines do not contain a fatty, alkyl, or alkenyl chain comprising more than ten carbon atoms.

The organic alkali agent(s) are preferably chosen from among the alkanolamines in particular mono-, di- or tri-hydroxy(C1-C6)alkylamines such as 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, monoethanolamine, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids, polyamines and mixtures thereof.

Alkanolamine is defined as an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more alkyl groups, linear or branched, in C1 to C8 bearing one or more hydroxy radicals.

Examples of such compounds include monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, and tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane.

More specifically, the usable amino acids are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D, or racemic forms, and contain at least one acidic functional group, most notably carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic, or phosphoric acid groups. Amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form.

Examples of amino acids that can be used in the present invention include aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.

Among the inorganic alkali agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, ammonium hydroxide (also called ammonia), mineral hydroxides, silicates, metasilicates, phosphates, hydrogen phosphates, and in particular, ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal silicates or metasilicates, especially sodium silicate and sodium metasilicate.

Among mineral hydroxides, sodium hydroxide is preferred.

Preferably, the additional alkali agent(s) is (or are) chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, alkali metal silicates and metasilicates, mineral hydroxides and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof, better chosen from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, the additional alkaline agent is ammonium hydroxide.

Advantageously, the total content of the additional alkaline agent(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 1 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fatty body
The composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances 4).

The term "fats" refers to an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). Their structure includes at least one hydrocarbon chain with at least six carbon atoms and/or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fats are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

Advantageously, the fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

Preferably, the useful fats according to the invention are non-siliconized.

The term "non-siliconized fat" refers to a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds, and "siliconized fat" refers to a fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.

The fats used according to the invention may be liquid fats (or oils) and/or solid fats. Liquid fats are defined as fats having a melting point of 25°C or lower at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). Solid fats are defined as fats having a melting point above 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

For the purposes of this invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In this application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

More particularly, the liquid fat(s) according to the invention are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids in particular have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

As an example, liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 6 carbon atoms can be chosen from among liquid hydrocarbons with a carbon atoms ranging from _C6 to _C16 . These can be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and preferably saturated. Examples include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms may also be chosen from among liquid hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms, linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petroleum jelly oils (INCI name mineral oil or paraffinum liquidum), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and their mixtures.

Liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 6 carbon atoms can also be chosen from mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more particularly from 15 to 28 carbon atoms, we can cite mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC, more particularly Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC.

Perhydrosqualene is one example of hydrocarbon oils of animal origin.

Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among the liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and their mixtures.

Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned previously, we may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters, we can mention dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-Ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

We can also use esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in C1 to C22 and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26.

Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also include, as fatty acid esters, esters and diesters of sugars of fatty acids ranging from C6 to C30, preferably from C12 to C22. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing multiple alcohol groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, particularly alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected, in particular, from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the C6 to C30 range, preferably in the C12 to C22 range, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

These esters can be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

In particular, mono- and di- esters are used, including mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

One example is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Preferably, a liquid ester of a monoacid and a monoalcohol will be used.

Preferably, the liquid fat(s) are chosen from mixtures of alkanes having 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more particularly 15 to 28 carbon atoms, better mixtures of INCI designation C15-19 Alkane.

According to one embodiment, the fats are chosen from liquid fats , preferably from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters and mixtures thereof, more preferably from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, better from mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more particularly from 15 to 28 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the liquid fat(s) are chosen from mixtures of alkanes having 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more particularly 15 to 28 carbon atoms, better mixtures of INCI designation C15-19 Alkane.

The solid fats according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.

The solid fat(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

The term "fatty acids" refers to a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated.

These solid fatty acids are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.

The solid fatty acids usable in the present invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof.

In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty acid(s) are chosen from stearic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty acids, the total content of the solid fatty acid(s) varies from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5%, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, better from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.

Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated (mono)alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen from, alone or in mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

The solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and/or C9-C26 fatty alcohols.

Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, Octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and/or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture. However, upon lowering the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

In particular, waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, particularly of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C20 to C60, such as Microwax HW.

We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8 to C32. Among these, we can notably mention isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol can also be used, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

As a wax, one can also use a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; Examples include carnauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS; polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.

Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes and their mixtures, preferably vegetable waxes such as carnauba wax and Candelilla wax and more preferably candelilla wax (INCI name euphorbia cerifera wax).

Solid fats are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, waxes and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the fat or fats present in the composition is or are chosen from liquid fats, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, better from mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more particularly from 15 to 28 carbon atoms.

According to another preferred embodiment, the fat or fats present in the composition is or are chosen from solid fats, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, waxes, solid fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fat selected from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, and at least one solid fat, preferably at least one wax and/or at least one solid fatty alcohol.

According to another preferred embodiment, the composition includes at least one fat body other than solid fatty acids.

According to another preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one solid fatty acid and at least one fat body other than solid fatty acids.

According to a preferred embodiment, the fat(s) is/are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, solid fatty acids, waxes and mixtures thereof, more preferably from solid fatty alcohols, mixtures of alkanes having 8 to 28 carbon atoms, waxes, solid fatty acids and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), cetearyl alcohol, waxes, solid fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the total content of the fat(s) in the composition according to the invention is from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 7% to 30% by weight, preferably from 8% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of the solid fat(s) in the composition according to the invention is from 5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 6 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 7 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, the total content of the hydrocarbon(s) comprising more than 6 carbon atoms varies, preferably, from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Dye

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more colorants selected from oxidation colorants, direct colorants and their mixtures 5).

Preferably, the composition includes one (or more) oxidation dye(s).

Oxidation dyes are generally chosen from one or more oxidation bases, possibly combined with one or more couplers.

oxidation base

Oxidation bases can be present in the form of salts, solvates and/or solvates of salts.

The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are in particular selected from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base such as sodium, potassium, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

Furthermore, the solvates of oxidation bases represent more specifically the hydrates of said oxidation bases and/or the association of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched alcohol from _C1 to _C4 such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

As an example, oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases and corresponding addition salts.

Examples of para-phenylenediamines include para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, and 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline. 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β,γ-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-1-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine and the corresponding addition salts with an acid.

Among the aforementioned para-phenylenediamines, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-b-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine and the corresponding addition salts with an acid are particularly preferred.

Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that can be mentioned are, for example, N,N'-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane and the corresponding addition salts.

Among the para-aminophenols that are mentioned are, for example, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(b-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol and the corresponding addition salts with an acid.

Examples of ortho-aminophenols that can be mentioned include 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol and their corresponding addition salts.

Examples of heterocyclic bases that can be mentioned include pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.

Among the pyridine derivatives that can be mentioned are the compounds described for example in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine and the corresponding addition salts.

Other pyridine oxidation bases useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in French patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-b-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-1-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; and the corresponding addition salts.

More specifically, the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from among the 3-aminopyrazolo-[1,5-a]-pyridines and preferably substituted at carbon atom 2 by:

a) a (di)( _C1 - _C6 )(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group being able to be substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino, imidazolium group;

b) a heterocycloalkyl group containing 5 to 7 members and 1 to 3 heteroatoms, possibly cationic, possibly substituted by one or more ( _C1 - _C6 )alkyl groups, such as a di( _C1 - _C4 )alkylpiperazinium group; or

c) a ( _C1 - _C6 )alkoxy group possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups such as a β-hydroxyalkoxy group and the corresponding addition salts.

Among the pyrimidine derivatives that can be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, where a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

Among the pyrazole derivatives that can be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FRA-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, the 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-Amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole, and their corresponding addition salts. 4,5-Diamino-1-(β-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used.

A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-1-(b-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a corresponding salt.

Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones, and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and their corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H,6H-pyridazino[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one.

Preferably, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a corresponding salt will be used.

Preferably, 4,5-diamino-1-(b-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a corresponding salt will be used as heterocyclic bases.

Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from among para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and their corresponding addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof; more preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof.

When the composition includes at least one oxidation base, preferably the oxidation base(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5%, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

Oxidation coupler

The composition according to the invention may include one or more couplers advantageously chosen from those traditionally used in the coloring of keratin fibers.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more couplers.

Among these couplers, we can in particular mention meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents as well as the corresponding addition salts.

Examples include 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,4-hydroxyethylmethylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-naphtol, 2-methyl-1-naphtol, 6-hydroxyindole, and 4-Hydroxyindole, 4-Hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-Amino-3-Hydroxypyridine, 3,5-Diamino-2,6-Dimethoxypyridine, 1-N-(β-Hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis(β-Hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-Hydroxyindoline, 2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-Phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-Dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-Dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole and 6-Methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-Methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and the corresponding mixtures.

In general, the addition salts of the couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

Furthermore, solvates more specifically represent the hydrates of these couplers and/or the association of these couplers with a linear or branched alcohol at C1 to C4 such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free from oxidation couplers selected from resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.

When the composition includes one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of the coupler(s) present in the composition according to the invention varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When present, the total content of oxidation colorants varies preferably from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more synthetic or natural direct dyes, chosen from anionic and non-ionic species, preferably cationic or non-ionic species, either as unique dyes or in addition to the oxidation dye(s).

Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.

When present, the direct colorant(s) represent more particularly 0.001% to 10% by weight and preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition and, similarly, the ready-to-use composition contains at least one colorant and preferably at least one oxidation colorant as defined above.

Additional surfactants

The composition according to the present invention may include one (or more) additional surfactant(s).

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition includes one (or more) additional surfactant(s).

These can be chosen from anionic surfactants other than fatty acids, non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and/or mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the surfactants are non-ionic surfactants.

Examples of non-ionic surfactants include the following:
- alkyl(C8-C24)oxyalkylened phenols;
- alcohols in the C8 to C40 range, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated or glycerolated, preferably oxyalkylated, they preferably have one or two fatty chains;
- C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated;
- esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;
- esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated;
- fatty acid and sucrose esters,
- alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated (0 to 10 oxyalkylated motifs) and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs, alkyl (C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters;
- oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated;
- ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide condensates;
- N-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and N-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine derivatives;
- aldobionamides;
- amine oxides;
- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated silicones;
- and their mixtures.

Oxyalkylated motifs are more specifically oxyethylated, oxypropylated motifs, or their combination, preferably oxyethylated.

The number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or propylene preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100; better from 2 to 50, better still from 2 to 40; the number of moles of glycerol ranges in particular from 1 to 50, better from 1 to 10.

As an example of non-ionic glycerolated surfactants, C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 moles of glycerol, are preferably used.

Examples of compounds of this type include lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol.

Among glycerol alcohols, C8-C10 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, C10-C12 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, and C12 alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol are particularly preferred.

More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from:
- alcohols in the range of C8 to C40, preferably in C10-C32, more preferably in C12-C28, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated or glycerolated, preferably oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated;
- alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs;
- and their mixture.

According to a preferred embodiment, the additional surfactants are selected from non-ionic surfactants, more preferably selected from _C8 - _C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene or propylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles, and comprising at least one _C8 - _{C20 alkyl chain.}

Preferably, the additional surfactant(s) represent from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
- at least one polycarboxylic acid of formula (I), its optical isomers, its geometric isomers, its salts and/or its solvates;
- at least one (bi)carbonate, the total (bi)carbonate content being greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
- at least one additional alkaline agent;
- at least one fatty substance;
- at least one dye, preferably at least one oxidation dye; and
- at least one additional surfactant, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants, more preferably chosen from _C8 to _C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene or propylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles and comprising at least one _C8 - _C20 alkyl chain.

Solvents

The composition according to the invention may also include at least one organic solvent.

Examples of organic solvents include linear or branched _C2 to _C4 alkanols such as ethanol, propanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the organic solvent(s) is/are chosen from polyols, more preferably from propylene glycol, glycerol, propane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof.

The organic solvent(s) may be present in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, better from 0.5 to 20% by weight, even better from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the composition according to the invention is preferably an aqueous composition. Preferably, the composition comprises water in an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more nonionic polyoxyalkylated fatty alcohol ether(s) of the following formula (i):

R-(O-Alk)n–OR’ (i),

in which:
R denotes a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in C10-C30,
R' denotes a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in C10-C30 that can be substituted by a hydroxyl radical, said hydroxyl radical being preferably located in the beta position of the ether function and
n is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive
Alk represents a (C1-C6) alkylene group, linear or branched, preferably linear such as ethylene or propylene, preferably ethylene.

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the Alk radical of formula (i) represents a –CH2-CH2- group

More particularly, the nonionic polyoxyalkylened fatty alcohol ether of formula (i) is such that R and R’, independently of each other, denote a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated; in C12-C20, preferably in C14-C18; R’ being able to be substituted by at least one hydroxyl radical, said hydroxyl radical being preferably located in the beta position of the ether function and n denotes an integer greater than or equal to 20, for example from 20 to 100, preferably from 40 to 80.

Preferably R and R’ denote an alkyl radical.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the nonionic polyoxyalkylened fatty alcohol ether of formula (i) is such that: R denotes an alkyl radical, preferably linear, in C16-C18, and R' denotes an alkyl radical, preferably linear, in C14 substituted by an OH group, said hydroxyl radical being preferably located in the beta position of the ether function and n is equal to 60.

Preferably, the nonionic compound of formula (i) has the following formula:

with R being a cetyl or stearyl group with n = 60.

Such a compound is listed in the CTFA Dictionary as CETEARETH 60 MYRISTYL GLYCOL or HYDROGENATED TALLOWETH 60 MYRISTYL GLYCOL. For example, CETEARETH 60 MYRISTYL GLYCOL is sold by AKZO under the trade name ELFACOS GT 282 S.

When present, preferably the non-ionic polyoxyalkylated fatty alcohol ether(s) (i) is/are present in a content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.075 to 2% by weight, better from 0.01 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives

The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more additives, different from the compounds previously described and among which we may mention cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes.

The above additives can generally be present in quantities of between 0 and 20% by weight of each of them, relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use composition.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more chemical oxidizing agents as described below.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not include a cationic polymer.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more chemical oxidants as described below. In this embodiment, the composition is ready for use.

This ready-to-use composition may include one or more of the ingredients described above.

Preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition is between 8 and 11, preferably between 9 and 10.5.

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any chemical oxidizing agents. In this embodiment, the composition is intended to be mixed with one or more chemical oxidizing agent(s).

Preferably, the pH of the composition not containing a chemical oxidizing agent is between 8 and 13, preferably between 9 and 12.

According to another particular embodiment, the pH of the composition not containing a chemical oxidizing agent is between 7 and 10 and the pH of the ready-to-use composition is between 6 and 9.

Process

The present invention also relates to a method for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, which includes applying to said keratin fibers an effective amount of a composition as defined above, in the presence of an oxidizing agent.

The composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. After treatment, the keratin fibers may be rinsed with water, or possibly washed with shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.

Preferably, the process according to the invention includes a step of mixing the composition described above, which does not include a chemical oxidizing agent, with an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent. This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the resulting composition to the hair.

According to this embodiment, the ready-to-use composition is obtained by mixing at least two compositions:
a composition including:
- at least one polycarboxylic acid of formula (I), its optical isomers, its geometric isomers, its salts and/or its solvates 1);
- at least one (bi) carbonate 2), the total (bi)carbonate content(s) being greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
- at least one additional alkaline agent 3);
- at least one fatty substance (4); and
- at least one colorant (5), preferably at least one oxidation colorant and
an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

In a preferred embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, according to the invention comprises the step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture, at the time of use, of at least two compositions:
a) a composition comprising:
- at least one polycarboxylic acid of formula (I), its optical isomers, its geometric isomers, its salts and/or its solvates 1);
- at least one (bi) carbonate 2), the total (bi)carbonate content(s) being greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
- at least one additional alkaline agent 3);
- at least one fatty substance (4); and
- at least one colorant, preferably at least one oxidation colorant 5);
- at least one additional surfactant;
b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents.

More specifically, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors, and alkali or alkaline earth metal percarbonates and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide.

The oxidizing composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.

It may also include one or more organic solvents selected from those listed previously; these solvents, when present, should represent, more specifically, 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition, and preferably 5 to 30% by weight of the oxidizing composition. The oxidizing composition also preferably includes one or more acidifying agents. Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

In addition, the oxidizing composition may include fatty substances such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms and their mixtures, surfactants, polymers.

Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when aqueous, is less than 7, preferably ranging from 1.5 to 4.

Preferably, the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which varies, more particularly, from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly between 0.5 and 20%, and even more preferably between 1 and 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.

Kit

Another object of the invention is a multi-compartment device, preferably two compartments, for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing the coloring composition according to the invention and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition as described above.

The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, optionally, by suitable application means, identical or different, such as brushes, sponges or brushes.

The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means of delivering the desired mixture onto the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.

The present invention finally relates to the use of a composition as described above for coloring keratin fibers, and in particular hair.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being intended to be limiting.

Examples

In the following examples, all quantities are given as mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated).

Compositions

Colour compositions A and B were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (% active ingredient):

Colour compositions

INCI NAME A (invention) B (comparative) AMMONIUM BICARBONATE 2.50 2.50 AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE 3.29 3.29 NON-IONIC SURFACTANT 2.45 2.45 ANTIOXIDANT 1.00 1.00 SOLVENT 2.00 2.00 TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE 0.24 - EDTA - 0.24 FATTY ACID(S)* 0.30 0.30 m-AMINOPHENOL 0.10 0.10 C15-19 ALKANE 2.00 2.00 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 16.00 16.00 CANDELILLA WAX 0.10 0.10 N,N-BIS(2-HYDROXYETHYL)-p-PHENYLENEDIAMINE SULFATE 0.16 0.16 HYDROXYETHYL-3,4-METHYLENEDIOXYANILINE HCL 0.18 0.18 2-AMINO-3-HYDROXYPYRIDINE 0.04 0.04 HYDROXYBENZOMORPHOLINE 0.43 0.43 TOLUENE-2,5-DIAMINE 0.53 0.53 WATER QS100 QS100

* INCI Name: STEARIC ACID

At the time of use, each of the colour compositions A and B is mixed with 1 1/2 times its weight of oxidant O. Each of the mixtures is then applied to a strand of hair that is 90% white, permed (BP) and moderately sensitized (SA20) at a rate of 5g of mixture /g of hair.

After 35 minutes of application at 27°C, the hair is rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and dried.

Results

The colorimetric measurements were carried out using a KONICA MINOLTA-3600 spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.

Color selectivity is the variation in color between permed (BP) colored hair and moderately sensitized (SA20) colored hair. Selectivity allows for the evaluation of color homogeneity throughout the hair fiber.

Selectivity is measured by:

ΔE, which is the color variation between permed hair and moderately sensitized hair (SA20), is obtained from the formula:

In which L* represents the intensity a* and b*, the chromaticity of permed colored hair, and _L0 * represents the intensity, _a0 *, and _b0 * the chromaticity of moderately sensitized colored hair. The lower the ΔE value, the lower the selectivity and the more uniform the coloring along the hair shaft.

Hair type L* has* b* ΔE A+O (invention) BP 19.0 1.8 2.9 0.6 SA20 18.6 1.8 2.4 B+O (comparative) BP 20.3 2.0 3.5 3.1 SA20 17.7 1.8 1.7

The hair strands treated with the A+O mixture according to the invention exhibit a much lower ΔE value than those treated with the comparative B+O mixture.

In other words, the A+O mixture according to the invention makes it possible to obtain hair strands exhibiting better selectivity compared to those treated with the comparative B+O mixture.

Furthermore, the A+O mixture according to the invention allows for good sensory performance.

Claims (15)

Composition includes:
- at least one polycarboxylic acid of the following formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and/or their solvates:
R1-N-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which
R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group,
-CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; And
R2 represents a CH2COOH group when R1 represents a hydrogen atom, or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when R1 is not a hydrogen atom; and
R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a cyclic group containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms;
- at least one (bi) carbonate 2), the total (bi)carbonate content(s) being greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
- at least one additional 3) alkaline agent;
- at least one fatty substance (4); and
- at least one colorant 5). Composition according to claim 1, wherein the carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl) aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-glutamate, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and mixtures thereof, preferably N,N-dicarboxymethyl L-glutamic acid and/or tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate, more preferably tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (INCI name). Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of the (I) carboxylic acid(s), its salts, its optical isomers, its geometric isomers, its salts and/or its solvates, ranges from 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the (bi)carbonates is (or are) selected from alkali metal (bi)carbonates, alkaline earth metal (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates, preferably alkali metal (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from Na, K, Mg, Ca (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates and mixtures thereof, better selected from Na (bi)carbonate, K (bi)carbonate, ammonium (bi)carbonate and mixtures thereof, preferably Na bicarbonate, K bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate and mixtures thereof, better still ammonium bicarbonate. Composition according to any one of the claims wherein the total content of the (bi)carbonates ranges from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1.2% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight, better from 1.8% to 5% by weight, better still from 2% to 4% relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the additional alkali agent(s) is or are selected from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, alkali metal silicates and metasilicates, mineral hydroxides and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof, better selected from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fat(s) is/are selected from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, solid fatty acids, waxes and mixtures thereof, more preferably from solid fatty alcohols, mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, waxes, solid fatty acids and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), cetearyl alcohol, waxes, solid fatty acids and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the claims wherein the total content of the fat(s) ranges from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 7% to 30% by weight, preferably from 8% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the colorant(s) is/are selected from oxidation colorants, direct colorants and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from oxidation colorants, preferably from oxidation bases possibly associated with one or more couplers. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one additional surfactant, the additional surfactant(s) being preferably selected from non-ionic surfactants, more preferably selected from _C8 - _C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene or propylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles, and comprising at least one _C8 - _C20 alkyl chain. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide. A method for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising applying to the keratin fibers the composition as defined according to claim 12. A method according to claim 13 comprising applying the mixture to the fibers:
a) a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11.
b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide. A multi-compartment device, preferably two compartments, for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 11 and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.