FR3150103A1 - DISPERSIONS COMPRISING PIGMENTS AND AT LEAST TWO LIPOPHILIC GELLING AGENTS - Google Patents

Abstract

DISPERSIONS COMPRISING PIGMENTS AND AT LEAST TWO LIPOPHILIC GELTING AGENTS The present invention relates to a dispersion comprising a fatty phase in the form of drops dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, the fatty phase comprising at least one pigment and at least two lipophilic gelling agents, preferably heat-sensitive. Figure: none

Description

DISPERSIONS COMPRISING PIGMENTS AND AT LEAST TWO LIPOPHILIC GELLING AGENTS

The present invention relates to stable dispersions comprising macroscopic drops of a dispersed fatty phase comprising at least one pigment and at least two lipophilic gelling agents. It also relates to compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, containing said dispersions as well as their uses in the cosmetic field.

There are currently pigmented dispersions of macroscopic drops of a fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, notably described in WO2019/053236. These dispersions are notably obtained using a microfluidic process. Such dispersions have a differentiating and attractive visual appearance while combining high coverage and hydration.

Macroscopic droplet dispersions are sensitive to shear or fragmentation of the drops. To overcome this drawback, it is known to implement these dispersions in packaging requiring a specific atmosphere free of air (so-called "airless" packaging), which restricts their uses. To overcome this problem, application WO 2017/046305 describes the addition of a gelling agent to the dispersed fatty phase, which makes it possible to obtain stable dispersions with improved mechanical strength, and therefore less sensitive to shear or fragmentation, in particular during transport. However, the presence of pigments in the dispersed fatty phase of such dispersions can lead to leakage of encapsulated oil into the continuous aqueous phase. This phenomenon is exacerbated, or even appears only, in the presence of dispersions with macroscopic-sized fatty phase drops.

For obvious reasons, this inconvenience is not desirable. Indeed, these oil leaks can lead to:

- the leakage of encapsulated active ingredient(s), which may be detrimental to the integrity of said active ingredient, or even lead to unwanted reactions with other active ingredients present in the continuous aqueous phase;

- an increase in the hardness of the dispersed fatty phase drops, because they are less loaded with oils, which can alter the sensoriality and comfort when applying the dispersion;

- a change in the size of the drops; and

- continuous opacification of the aqueous phase, agglomeration of the dispersed phase drops between them and/or adhesion of the drops to the walls of the packaging, via the formation of oil bridges.

All these drawbacks are likely to negatively impact the stability, comfort of application and also the appearance of these dispersions. However, the appearance is a very important selection (and therefore purchase) criterion in the cosmetic field.

There is therefore a need for new pigmented dispersions comprising macroscopic drops which do not have the aforementioned drawbacks.

More generally, the development of pigmented dispersions, particularly in the cosmetic field, which are ever more stable, comfortable to apply and aesthetic, remains a constant objective.

The present invention therefore aims to provide stable pigmented dispersions of drops, in particular macroscopic ones, in which the oil leaks described below and the underlying drawbacks are reduced, or even overcome.

Thus, the present invention relates to a dispersion comprising, or even containing, a fatty phase in the form of drops dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, the fatty phase comprising at least one pigment and at least two lipophilic gelling agents, preferably heat-sensitive, and very particularly chosen from:

- at least one ester of sugar/polysaccharide and fatty acid(s);

- at least one lipophilic polyurethane gelling agent, preferably chosen from Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79 and/or Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer; or

- at least one pasty fatty substance chosen from a wax, a butter, and their mixtures.

Preferably, the present invention relates to such a dispersion, in which the two lipophilic gelling agents are chosen from:

- a first lipophilic gelling agent chosen from at least one ester of sugar/polysaccharide and fatty acid(s); and

- a second lipophilic polyurethane gelling agent, preferably chosen from Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer or at least one pasty fatty substance chosen from a wax, a butter, and their mixtures.

In the remainder of the description, the drops of dispersed fatty phase may be referred to interchangeably as “G1 drops”.

A dispersion of the invention has the advantage of being stable, in particular over time and during transport. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “stable” means the absence of creaming or sedimentation of the dispersed phase drops in the continuous phase, the absence of opacification of the aqueous continuous phase, the absence of aggregation of the drops with each other, and in particular the absence of coalescence or Oswald ripening of the drops with each other, and the absence of leakage of materials from the dispersed phase to the continuous phase, or vice versa, and in particular the absence of leakage of oil(s) from the dispersed phase to the continuous phase.

As is apparent from the examples described below, the presence of at least two lipophilic gelling agents in a dispersion according to the invention makes it possible to reduce, or even prevent, the phenomenon of oil leakage and the underlying drawbacks, which makes it possible to preserve, or even improve, the stability, comfort of application and the appearance of a dispersion according to the invention.

Advantageously, the drops of a dispersion according to the invention are macroscopic drops, that is to say that the drops are visible to the naked eye, as opposed to microscopic drops not visible to the naked eye.

Advantageously, in a dispersion according to the invention, the drops having a diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm, or even greater than or equal to 200 μm, better still greater than or equal to 300 μm, in particular greater than or equal to 400 μm, preferably greater than or equal to 500 μm, or even greater than or equal to 1,000 μm, or even between 100 μm and 3,000 μm, better still between 200 μm and 2,000 μm, in particular between 300 μm and 1,500 μm, and better still between 500 μm and 1,000 μm, represent a volume greater than or equal to 60%, or even greater than or equal to 70%, preferably greater than or equal to 80%, and better still greater than or equal to 90% of the total volume of the phase. scattered,

and/or

at least 60%, or even at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, and better still at least 90%, of the drops have an average diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm, or even greater than or equal to 200 μm, better still greater than or equal to 300 μm, in particular greater than or equal to 400 μm, preferably greater than or equal to 500 μm, or even greater than or equal to 1,000 μm, or even between 100 μm and 3,000 μm, better still between 200 μm and 2,000 μm, in particular between 300 μm and 1,500 μm, better still between 500 μm and 1,000 μm.

Preferably, the dispersions of the invention consist of a population of monodisperse G1 drops, in particular such that they have a coefficient of variation Cv of less than 10%, or even less than 3%.

In the context of the present description, the term "monodispersed drops" means that the population of drops G1 of the dispersion according to the invention has a uniform size distribution. Monodispersed drops have good monodispersity. Conversely, drops having poor monodispersity are said to be "polydispersed".

The average diameter of the drops is for example measured according to the method described in WO2021234135.

The coefficient of variation Cv of the drop diameters G1 is advantageously less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, or even less than 3%.

To obtain monodisperse drops, it is also possible to implement the microfluidic technique (Utada et al. MRS Bulletin 32, 702-708 (2007); Cramer et al. Chem. Eng. Sci. 59, 15, 3045-3058 (2004)), and more particularly microfluidic devices of the co-flow type (the fluids go in the same direction) or flow-focusing type (the fluids go in different directions, and typically in opposite directions), and in particular by means of the manufacturing processes described below.

Determining the volume of drops having a particular diameter relative to the total volume of the dispersed phase falls within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art, in particular with regard to the method of measuring the diameter described above.

In the context of the present invention, the above-mentioned dispersions may be referred to interchangeably by the term "emulsions".

In addition, the drops advantageously exhibit an apparent monodispersity (i.e. they are perceived to the eye as spheres identical in diameter). The drops are advantageously substantially spherical.

According to the invention, the pH of a dispersion is typically between 4.0 and 8.0, in particular between 5.0 and 7.0.

Unless otherwise indicated, in all that follows, we consider that we are at room temperature (for example T = 25°C ± 2°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 1,013.10 ⁵ Pa or 10 ¹³ mbar).

The viscosity of the compositions according to the invention can vary significantly, which therefore makes it possible to obtain varied textures.

According to one embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention has a viscosity of from 500 mPa.s to 300,000 mPa.s, preferably from 1,000 mPa.s to 200,000 mPa.s, better still from 2,500 mPa.s to 100,000 mPa.s, and more particularly from 5,000 mPa.s to 50,000 mPa.s, as measured at 25°C.

Viscosity is measured at room temperature and ambient pressure by the method described in WO2017046305.

According to a particular embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention, in particular the continuous aqueous phase, does not comprise a surfactant.

Dispersion

A dispersion according to the invention, in particular the continuous aqueous phase, is liquid at room temperature and at room pressure. In other words, a dispersion according to the invention is not in a solid form, in particular compact, powdery, cast or in stick form.

The G1 drops of fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention can be single-phase or multi-phase.

G1 drops can be spheres or capsules. By “sphere” is meant a drop without a shell, and therefore where the dispersed fatty phase is in direct contact with the continuous aqueous phase.

In the case where the drops G1 are capsules, the drops comprise a core (which comprises at least one fatty phase) and a shell (or membrane or envelope) totally encapsulating the core. In other words, the dispersed fatty phase is not in direct contact with the continuous aqueous phase.

The drops themselves can comprise one or more phases.

All or part of the pigments present in a dispersion according to the invention are in the fatty phase forming the core.

According to one embodiment, the drops of a dispersion according to the invention comprise a liquid or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic core, and optionally a shell completely encapsulating said core, said core being single-phase, and at least formed by the dispersed fatty phase. Such a type of drop then leads to a simple dispersion comprising two distinct phases, an internal phase represented by the fatty phase and an external phase, preferably in the gelled state, surrounding the internal phase and represented by the aqueous phase.

According to another particular embodiment, the drops of a dispersion according to the invention comprise a liquid or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic core, and optionally a shell completely encapsulating said core, said core comprising an intermediate drop of an intermediate phase and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an internal phase arranged in the intermediate drop, at least one of the intermediate and/or internal phase(s) forming the fatty phase and the pigment(s) being present in at least the fatty phase.

Advantageously, the intermediate phase is oily and the internal phase is aqueous or formed from a different oily phase and immiscible at room temperature and atmospheric pressure with the intermediate phase. Such a type of drop then leads to a complex dispersion meaning that the core comprises a single intermediate drop of an intermediate phase, and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an internal phase arranged in the intermediate drop.

According to one variant, the core comprises an intermediate phase within which there is a plurality of drops of internal phase(s).

According to a particular embodiment:

- the continuous aqueous phase may itself be in the form of a direct emulsion (oil-in-water), said emulsion comprising a continuous aqueous phase and a fatty phase dispersed in the form of drops (G2), the size of the drops (G2) preferably being smaller than the size of the drops (G1);

and/or

- the fatty phase may itself be in the form of an inverse emulsion (water-in-oil), said emulsion comprising a continuous fatty phase and an aqueous phase dispersed in the form of drops (G3), the size of the drops (G3) necessarily being smaller than the size of the drops (G1) and preferably microscopic.

In particular, the size of the drops (G2) and/or (G3) is less than 500 µm, preferably less than 400 µm, in particular less than 250 µm, better still less than 150 µm, in particular less than 100 µm, or even less than 20 µm, and better still less than 10 µm. Preferably, the size of the drops (G2) and/or (G3) is between 0.1 µm and 200 µm, preferably between 0.25 µm and 100 µm, in particular between 0.5 µm and 50 µm, preferably between 1 µm and 20 µm, and better still between 1 µm and 10 µm, or even between 3 µm and 5 µm.

Optionally, the drops (G2) and/or (G3) comprise a shell formed from at least one anionic polymer and at least one cationic polymer, said anionic and cationic polymers being as defined below.

Advantageously, the drops (G2) and/or (G3) are not macroscopic, and are therefore microscopic, i.e. not visible to the naked eye. In other words, the drops (G2) and/or (G3) are different and independent of the drops (G1).

These drops (G2) and/or (G3) of reduced size make it possible to have an effect on the texture. Indeed, a dispersion according to the invention comprising such finely dispersed drops (G2) and/or (G3) has improved smoothness qualities.

Advantageously, the drops (G2) and/or (G3) can comprise at least one pigment, identical to or different from the pigment(s) present in the fatty phase of the drops (G1).

Advantageously, the intermediate phase comprises at least one gelling agent, in particular a lipophilic agent, in particular as defined below. The gelling agent contributes in particular to improving the suspension of the internal drop(s) arranged in the intermediate drop, and therefore to improving the stability of a dispersion according to the invention according to this embodiment.

Continuous aqueous phase

According to one embodiment, the continuous aqueous phase has a viscosity of from 500 mPa.s to 300,000 mPa.s, preferably from 1,000 mPa.s to 200,000 mPa.s, better still from 2,500 mPa.s to 100,000 mPa.s, and more particularly from 5,000 mPa.s to 50,000 mPa.s, as measured at 25°C.

This viscosity is measured using the method described above.

The continuous aqueous phase comprises at least water. In addition to distilled or deionized water, water suitable for the invention may also be natural spring water or floral water.

According to one embodiment, the mass percentage of water in the continuous aqueous phase is at least 30%, preferably at least 40%, in particular at least 50%, and better still at least 60%, in particular between 70% and 98%, and preferentially between 75% and 95%, relative to the total mass of the continuous aqueous phase.

The continuous aqueous phase of the dispersion according to the invention may further comprise at least one base, in particular when the continuous aqueous phase comprises at least one pH-dependent hydrophilic gelling agent, for example a carbomer, and thus to increase the viscosity. It may comprise a single base or a mixture of several different bases. According to one embodiment, the base present in the aqueous phase is a mineral base, in particular chosen from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides and alkaline earth metal hydroxides. Preferably, the mineral base is an alkali metal hydroxide, and in particular NaOH. According to one embodiment, the base present in the aqueous phase is an organic base. Among the organic bases, mention may be made, for example, of ammonia, pyridine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, or triethylamine.

A dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and preferentially from 0.1% to 1% by weight of base, preferably mineral base, and in particular NaOH, relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

Dispersed fatty phase

The fatty phase dispersed in the form of drops G1 of a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least one pigment and at least two different lipophilic gelling agents.

Preferably, a dispersion according to the invention may comprise between 1% and 60%, preferably between 5% and 50%, in particular between 10% and 40%, and in particular between 15% and 30%, by weight of fatty phase relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

Advantageously, the dispersed fatty phase can further comprise at least one oil, and can indifferently be designated by “oily phase”.

Oils

The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature.

As oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, we can cite for example:

- hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, perilla oil, inca inchi oil, rosehip oil, rapeseed oil, hemp oil, sweet almond oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, meadowfoam oil (INCI: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil), hydrogenated where appropriate;

- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane;

- synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulae R ₁ COOR ₂ and R ₁ OR ₂ in which R ₁ represents the residue of a C ₈ to C ₂₉ fatty acid, and R ₂ represents a branched or unbranched C ₃ to C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetrabehenate (DUB PTB) or pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631);

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam oil;

- silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

- fatty alcohols with 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), or octyldodecanol;

- partially hydrocarbon and/or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in JP-A-2-295912; and

- and their mixtures.

Preferably, a dispersion according to the invention does not comprise hydrocarbon oil of animal origin, hydrocarbon, silicone oil, fluorinated oil, and their mixtures.

A person skilled in the art will know how to adjust the nature and/or content of oil(s), in particular to ensure satisfactory solubilization (or homogenization) of the pigment(s) and lipophilic gelling agents.

A dispersion according to the invention advantageously comprises from 10% to 98%, in particular between 20% and 90%, preferably from 30% to 80%, better still from 40% to 70%, and in particular from 50% to 60%, by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

Pigments

The fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least one pigment. The use of several pigments makes it possible to nuance the color of the fatty phase of the drops, and therefore of the dispersion, as desired.

By "pigment" is meant a coloring chemical substance insoluble in the phase in which the pigment is present. By "insoluble" is meant that the solubility at 20°C of the pigment in the phase in which the pigment is present is less than 1 g/L, in particular less than 0.1 g/L, preferably less than 0.001 g/L.

Each pigment can independently be an organic, inorganic or organic-inorganic hybrid pigment. These are typically inorganic pigments.

The coloration conferred by a dispersion according to the invention can for example be measured by spectrocolorimetry and/or spectrophotocolorimetry.

Coverage is the ability of a composition to “mask the skin” / “hide imperfections”. The coverage of a composition can be measured according to the method described in WO2019053236.

As pigments, mention may be made in particular of titanium dioxide, zinc dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and mixtures thereof. Preferred mineral pigments are iron oxides, in particular red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, black iron oxide, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof.

The pigment is preferably an iron oxide, especially red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, black iron oxide and mixtures thereof.

Each pigment may be an untreated pigment or a treated pigment. For the purposes of the application, “treated pigment” means a pigment that has been treated with an additive that improves its dispersibility in an oily or aqueous composition, in particular one of the additives defined below. “Untreated pigment” or “untreated pigment” means a pigment that has not been treated with such an additive.

According to a first alternative, the pigment used is an untreated and unground pigment (pigment used “as is”).

According to a second alternative, the pigment used has undergone a prior treatment in order to make it more easily dispersible during the formulation of the pigment, that is to say in particular more easily dispersible in the phase considered. This prior treatment consists of grinding the pigment and/or pretreating it with an additive improving its dispersibility before formulating it in the form of a series of colored particles.

• contribue à ce qu’un liquide qui contient le pigment broyé et/ou prétraité ait une viscosité faible,
• contribue à la préparation d’une dispersion dont la phase grasse dispersée a une teneur en pigment très élevées, par exemple comprenant plus de 25%, en particulier plus de 30%, voire plus de 35%, en poids de pigment(s) par rapport au poids de la phase grasse dispersée,
• contribue à la diminution, voire évite, la sédimentation du(es) pigment(s) dans la(es) phase(s) qui le(s) contient(nent), et/ou
• contribue à la diminution, voir évite, l’agrégation des pigments dans la(es) phase(s) qui le(s) contient(nent).

The use of a ground pigment and/or a pigment pretreated with an additive improving its dispersibility:

• contributes to a liquid containing the ground and/or pretreated pigment having a low viscosity,
• contributes to the preparation of a dispersion whose dispersed fatty phase has a very high pigment content, for example comprising more than 25%, in particular more than 30%, or even more than 35%, by weight of pigment(s) relative to the weight of the dispersed fatty phase,
• contributes to the reduction, or even avoids, the sedimentation of the pigment(s) in the phase(s) which contain(s) it, and/or
• contributes to the reduction, or even avoids, the aggregation of pigments in the phase(s) which contain it(them).

Typically, when multiple pigments are used, they all undergo the same treatment, i.e. they are all ground and/or they are all pre-treated. However, it is possible that some are ground and not treated, and others treated and ground or not ground.

According to a first embodiment according to the second alternative, the at least one pigment is pretreated with an additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment.

The nature of the additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment depends on the hydrophilic or lipophilic character of the phase(s) which will comprise this treated pigment.

When a dispersion uses several pretreated pigments, these can be pretreated with additives that are identical or different from each other.

An additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment within the fatty phase is chosen for example from hydrogenated lecithin, a silicone, a wax, an amino acid or one of its salts and an amino acid ester or one of its salts, and their mixtures, as described for example in WO2019/053236. The preferred amino acid is cystine, and the preferred amino acid esters are sodium cocoyl glutamate, lauroyl arginine or lauroyl lysine. Mention may also be made of hydrophobic surface treatments based on avocado butter, such as the UNIPURE pigments from Sensient.

In this first embodiment according to the second alternative implementing a pretreated pigment, the pretreated pigment can then comprise a grinding step or be free of it. This grinding makes it possible to limit, or even eliminate, the aggregates of pretreated pigments, which facilitates their subsequent incorporation into the phase(s) and/or contributes to reducing the sedimentation of the pigment in the phase(s) which contain(s) it.

This grinding step can be carried out in the presence of a binder, or in the absence of a binder (dry grinding).

Preferably, when the pigment is treated with an additive improving its dispersibility within an oily phase, the binder is chosen from octyldodecanol, castor oil, a mineral oil, isononyl isononanoate, dimethicone and cyclomethicone, isododecane, and mixtures thereof.

The crusher is typically chosen from three-roll crushers, ball crushers and plate crushers.

When the grinding step is carried out in the absence of binder, the mill may be a pin mill, a jet micronizer, an impact mill, a hammer mill, a knife mill, a ball mill, a vibrating mill or a cryogenic mill.

According to a second embodiment according to the second alternative, the at least one pigment is not pretreated with an additive improving its dispersibility, and the method then comprises a step of grinding the pigment. This grinding makes it possible to limit, or even eliminate, the aggregates of pretreated pigments, which facilitates their subsequent incorporation into the phase(s) and/or contributes to reducing the sedimentation of the pigment in the phase(s) which contain(s) it.

The embodiments described above for grinding are of course applicable (type of grinder, absence or presence of binder).

Advantageously, a dispersion according to the invention comprises between 1% and 60%, preferably between 5% and 50%, in particular between 10% and 40%, in particular better between 15% and 35%, preferably between 20% and 35%, and very particularly between 25% and 35%, by weight of pigment(s) relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase.

A dispersion according to the invention is advantageous in that its aforementioned advantageous properties remain, even in the presence of high pigment contents in the dispersed fatty phase. Thus, a dispersion according to the invention advantageously comprises a content greater than 25%, or even greater than 30%, and even greater than 35%, by weight of pigment(s) relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase.

Preferably, the fatty phase may further comprise at least one pigment dispersing agent. As pigment dispersing agent, mention may be made of hydrostearic acid or polyhydroxystearic acid, such as those marketed by Phoenix Chemical under the name PELEMOL PHS-8 or by Lubrizol under the name Matrifuse S-1. Mention may also be made of MiyoFILM CCTG marketed by Miyoshi (INCI: Dextrin Isostearate (and) Caprylic/capric triglyceride).

Preferably, a dispersion according to the invention comprises between 0.5% and 10%, in particular between 1.5% and 6%, and better between 2% and 4%, by weight of pigment dispersing agent(s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

The presence of such particular compound(s) is advantageous in that it/they make it possible to reduce the viscosity of a fatty phase comprising at least one pigment, for example a pigment/oil (60:40) ground material, a fortiori of a phase highly loaded with pigments, and therefore make it/them fluid and more easily processable, in particular at the level of fluidic devices such as described below.

Lipophilic gelling agents

The fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least two lipophilic gelling agents, different from the oils and pigments described above. The combination of these (at least) two lipophilic gelling agents, in addition to their capacities to improve the mechanical resistance of the drops, to increase the viscosity and/or to reduce, or even prevent, the sedimentation of the pigment(s) at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, unexpectedly makes it possible to improve the properties of a dispersion according to the invention in terms of oil leakage, adhesion, aggregation and stickiness.

In the context of the invention, the term “gelling agent” means an agent which, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, makes it possible to increase the viscosity of the phase(s) which contain it compared to the same phase(s) devoid of said gelling agent, and for example to achieve a final viscosity of the phase(s) greater than 2,000 mPa.s, preferably greater than 4,000 mPa.s, better still greater than 10,000 mPa.s, and very particularly greater than 100,000 mPa.s.

Preferably, the viscosity of the dispersed fatty phase is between 2,000 and 100,000,000 mPa.s, preferably between 4,000 and 1,000,000 mPa.s, and better still between 10,000 and 500,000 mPa.s, at 25°C.

The term “lipophilic gelling agent” means a liposoluble or lipodispersible compound capable of gelling the fatty (or oily) phase of a dispersion according to the invention.

Lipophilic gelling agents are advantageously heat-sensitive. The expression “heat-sensitive gelling agent” designates an agent capable of increasing the viscosity of the fatty phase comprising it when devoid of said agent, this viscosity changing reversibly as a function of the temperature.

Preferably, the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least two different lipophilic gelling agents chosen from:

- at least one ester of sugar/polysaccharide and fatty acid(s);

- Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79 and/or Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI/ Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer; Or

- at least one pasty fatty substance chosen from a wax, a butter, and their mixtures.

Preferably, the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least two different lipophilic gelling agents, in which:

- the first lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one ester of sugar/polysaccharide and fatty acid(s); and

- the second lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, or at least one pasty fatty substance chosen from a wax, a butter, and their mixtures.

In other words, the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from at least one ester of sugar/polysaccharide and fatty acid(s).

Ester ( s ) of sugar/polysaccharide and fatty acid(s)

Preferably, the ester of sugar/polysaccharide and fatty acid(s) is chosen from esters of dextrin and fatty acid(s), esters of inulin and fatty acid(s), esters of glycerol and fatty acid(s), and mixtures thereof, preferably from esters of dextrin and fatty acid(s), and in particular from dextrin palmitate.

According to one embodiment, the ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s) according to the invention is a mono- or poly-ester of dextrin and at least one fatty acid corresponding to the following formula (II):

• n est un nombre entier allant de 2 à 200, de préférence allant de 20 à 150, et en particulier allant de 25 à 50,
• les radicaux R_4,R₅et R_6,identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi l'hydrogène ou un groupement acyle -COR_adans lequel le radical R_areprésente un radical hydrocarboné, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, possédant de 5 à 50, de préférence de 5 à 25 atomes de carbone,

in which:

• n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably ranging from 20 to 150, and in particular ranging from 25 to 50,
• the radicals R _4, R ₅ and R _6, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group -COR _a in which the radical R _a represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 50, preferably from 5 to 25 carbon atoms,

provided that at least one of said radicals R ₄ , R ₅ or R ₆ is other than hydrogen.

According to one embodiment, R _4, R ₅ and R ₆ represent, independently of one another, H or an acyl group -COR _a in which R _a is a hydrocarbon radical as defined above, provided that at least two of said radicals R _4, R ₅ or R ₆ are identical and different from hydrogen.

According to one embodiment, when the radicals R _{4 ,} R ₅ and R ₆ , which are identical or different, represent a radical -COR _a , these may be chosen from the radicals caprylyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, eicosanyl, docosanoyl, isovaleryl, 2-ethylbutyryl, ethylmethylacetyl, isoheptanyl, 2-ethylhexanyl, isononanyl, isodecanyl, isotridecanyl, isomyristyl, isopalmityl, isostearyl, isohexanyl, decenyl, dodecenyl, tetradecenyl, myristyl, hexadecenoyl, palmitoleyl, oleyl, elaidyl, eicosenyl, sorbyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, punicyl, arachidonyl, stearolyl, and their mixtures.

Among the esters of dextrin and fatty acid(s), we can for example cite dextrin palmitates, dextrin myristates, dextrin palmitates/ethylhexanoates and their mixtures. We can in particular cite the esters of dextrin and fatty acid(s) marketed under the names Rheopearl® KL2 (INCI name: dextrin palmitate), Rheopearl® TT2 (INCI name: dextrin palmitate ethylhexanoate), and Rheopearl® MKL2 (INCI name: dextrin myristate) by the company Miyoshi Europe, also dextrin palmitate marketed by The Innovation Company.

As esters of inulin and fatty acid(s), we can cite those marketed under the names Rheopearl ^® ISK2 or Rheopearl ^® ISL2 (INCI name: Stearoyl Inulin) by the company Miyoshi Europe.

The ester of glycerol and fatty acid(s) may in particular be a mono-, di- or triester of glycerol and fatty acid(s). According to the invention, it may be an ester of glycerol and a fatty acid or an ester of glycerol and a mixture of fatty acids.

According to one embodiment, the fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of behenic acid, isooctadecanoic acid, stearic acid, eicosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the ester of glycerol and fatty acid(s) has the following formula (III):

in which: R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ are, independently of one another, chosen from H and a saturated alkyl chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, at least one of R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ being different from H.

According to one embodiment, R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ are different.

According to one embodiment, R ₁ , R ₂ and/or R ₃ represents a saturated alkyl chain comprising from 4 to 30, preferably from 12 to 22, and preferentially from 18 to 22 carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment, the ester of glycerol and fatty acid(s) corresponds to a compound of formula (III) in which R ₁ = H, R ₂ = C ₂₁ H ₄₃ and R ₃ = C ₁₉ H ₄₀ .

According to one embodiment, the ester of glycerol and fatty acid(s) corresponds to a compound of formula (III) in which R ₁ = R ₂ = R ₃ = C ₂₁ H ₄₃ .

According to one embodiment, the ester of glycerol and fatty acid(s) corresponds to a compound of formula (III) in which R ₁ = R ₂ = H, and R ₃ = C ₁₉ H ₄₀ .

According to one embodiment, the ester of glycerol and fatty acid(s) corresponds to a compound of formula (III) in which R ₁ = R ₂ = H, and R ₃ = C ₁₇ H ₃₅ .

Examples of esters of glycerol and fatty acid(s) include those marketed under the names Nomcort HK-G (INCI name: Glyceryl behenate/eicosadioate) and Nomcort SG (INCI name: Glyceryl tribehenate, isostearate, eicosadioate), by the company Nisshin Oillio.

Polyurethane lipophilic gelling agents

As a lipophilic gelling agent, mention may be made of polyurethane lipophilic gelling agents (or polyurethane compounds capable of gelling at least one oil), such as those described in WO2016/090081 and WO2018/185432.

As a lipophilic polyurethane gelling agent, mention may be made of the one having the INCI: CASTOR OIL / IPDI COPOLYMER & CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, and in particular that marketed by PolymerExpert under the name Estogel M or EMC 30. Mention may also be made of the one having the INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79, and in particular that marketed by Lubrizol under the name OILKEMIA 5S. Mention may also be made of the one having the INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, and in particular that marketed by Lubrizol under the name OILKEMIA 5S CC.

Pasty fat body

The pasty fatty substance may be chosen from synthetic compounds and/or compounds of plant origin. A pasty fatty substance may be obtained by synthesis from starting products of plant origin. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the pasty fatty substance(s) are of plant origin.

Wax(s)

For the purposes of the invention, the term “wax” means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C and up to 120°C.

The protocol for measuring this melting point is described later.

The waxes that can be used in a composition according to the invention can be chosen from solid waxes, deformable or not at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin and their mixtures, and preferably from waxes of vegetable origin.

In particular, hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice wax, sunflower wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, waxy copolymers and their esters, and their mixtures, and preferably rice wax and/or sunflower wax.

We can also cite waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C ₈ -C ₃₂ .

These include hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name “HEST 2T-4S” by the company HETERENE, and di-(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrabehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE.

Waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils, such as castor oil or olive oil, may also be used, such as the waxes sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64 ^® and 22L73 ^® and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A- 2792190.

Silicone waxes can also be used which can advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably with a low melting point.

Commercial silicone waxes of this type include those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (GOLDSCHMIDT), KF910 and KF7002 (SHIN ETSU), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (GENERAL ELECTRIC).

The silicone waxes that can be used can also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (WACKER), as well as (C ₂₀ -C ₆₀ ) alkyldimethicones, in particular (C ₃₀ -C ₄₅ ) alkyldimethicones such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones.

Hydrocarbon waxes modified with silicone or fluorinated groups can also be used, such as: siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax from Koster Keunen.

Waxes can also be chosen from fluorinated waxes.

Butter(s) or pasty fat(s)

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "butter" (also called "pasty fat") means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 25°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction, and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

Preferably, butters or pasty fats have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, visible by X-ray observations.

Examples of butters that may be mentioned include C10-C18 triglycerides (INCI name: C10-18 Triglycerides) comprising at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction, shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter ( Butyrospermum parkii ), Galam butter ( Butyrospermum parkii ), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow ( Shorea stenoptera ), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca longifolia, mowrah butter ( Madhuca Latifolia ), Katiau butter ( Madhuca mottleyana ), Phulwara butter ( M. butyracea ), mango butter ( Mangifera indica ), Murumuru butter ( Astrocatyum murumuru ), Kokum ( Garcinia Indica ), Ucuuba butter ( Virola sebifera ), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter ( Pentadesma butyracea ), Coffee butter ( Coffea arabica ), Apricot butter ( Prunus Armeniaca ), Macadamia butter ( Macadamia Temifolia ), Grape seed butter ( Vitis vinifera ), Avocado butter ( Persea gratissima ), Olive butter ( Olea europaea ), Sweet almond butter ( Prunus amygdalus dulcis ), Cocoa butter ( Theobroma cacao ) and Sunflower butter, the butter under the INCI name Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, the butter under the INCI name Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, and the butter under the INCI name Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, Jojoba esters (mixture of wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil) (INCI name: Jojoba esters) and shea butter ethyl esters (INCI name: Shea butter ethyl esters), and mixtures thereof.

• au moins un ester de dextrine et d'acide(s) gras ;
• le Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride ; ou
• au moins une cire.

Preferably, the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least two different lipophilic gelling agents chosen from:

• at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s);
• Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride; Or
• at least one wax.

Even more preferably, the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least two different lipophilic gelling agents, in which:

- the first lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s) and the second lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride;

- the first lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s) and the second lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one wax; or

- the first lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and the second lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one wax.

According to a first preferred embodiment, the first lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s) and the second lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride.

According to a second preferred embodiment, the first lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s) and the second lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one wax.

In other words, the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s).

Preferably, in particular with the first preferred embodiment described above, the two lipophilic gelling agents are present in the dispersed fatty phase in a weight ratio “first lipophilic gelling agent(s)/second lipophilic gelling agent(s)” of between 50:50 and 25:75, preferably between 45:55 and 30:70, and better still between 35:65 and 30:70.

According to the invention, a dispersion according to the invention may comprise between 1% and 30%, preferably between 2.5% and 20%, and in particular between 5% and 12%, by weight of lipophilic gelling agents relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase.

Additional lipophilic gelling agent

A dispersion may further comprise at least one additional lipophilic gelling agent, different from the lipophilic gelling agents described above.

Such an additional lipophilic gelling agent may be chosen from organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular gelling agents; and mixtures thereof. Such lipophilic gelling agents are notably described in WO2019002308.

According to the invention, a dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 20%, preferably from 1% to 15%, and in particular from 2% to 10%, by weight of additional lipophilic gelling agent(s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase comprising it.

Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additional lipophilic gelling agent(s) and/or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of a dispersion according to the invention, as well as their manufacturing processes, are not or are not substantially altered by the envisaged addition. These adjustments fall within the skills of the person skilled in the art.

Bark drops (optional)

Drops (G1) may include a bark.

According to the invention, the drops obtained may have a very fine shell, in particular with a thickness of less than 1% of the diameter of the drops.

The thickness of the bark is thus preferably less than 1 µm and is therefore too small to be measured by optical methods.

According to one embodiment, the thickness of the droplet shell is advantageously less than 1,000 nm, in particular between 1 and 500 nm, preferably less than 100 nm, advantageously less than 50 nm, preferentially less than 10 nm.

The measurement of the thickness of the bark of the drops of the invention can be carried out by the method described in WO2017046305.

The bark surrounding the drops of the dispersed fatty phase makes it possible in particular to improve the properties of the drops in terms of shear resistance, adhesion and aggregation.

This shell is preferably formed by coacervation, that is, by precipitation of polymers charged with opposite charges. Within a coacervate, the bonds linking the charged polymers together are of the ionic type, and are generally stronger than bonds present within a surfactant-type membrane.

The bark is formed by coacervation of at least two charged polymers of opposite polarity (or polyelectrolyte) and preferably in the presence of a first polymer, of cationic type, and a second polymer, different from the first polymer, of anionic type. These two polymers act as membrane stiffening agents.

The formation of the coacervate between these two polymers can be caused by a modification of the conditions of the reaction medium (temperature, pH, concentration of reagents, etc.).

The coacervation reaction results from the neutralization of these two charged polymers of opposite polarities and allows the formation of a membrane structure by electrostatic interactions between the anionic polymer and the cationic polymer. The membrane thus formed around each drop typically forms a shell that completely encapsulates the core of the drop, and thus isolates the core of the drop from the continuous aqueous phase.

Advantageously, one of the first and second charged polymers is a lipophilic polymer capable of being ionized upon contact with an aqueous phase, the other of the first and second charged polymers is a hydrophilic polymer capable of being ionized.

Anionic polymer

In the context of this description, the term "anionic type polymer" or "anionic polymer" means a polymer comprising anionic type chemical functions. It may also be referred to as an anionic polyelectrolyte.

By "chemical function of anionic type" we mean a chemical function AH capable of giving up a proton to give an A ^- function. Depending on the conditions of the environment in which it is found, the anionic type polymer therefore contains chemical functions in AH form, or in the form of its conjugated base A ^- .

As an example of anionic chemical functions, we can cite the carboxylic acid functions –COOH, possibly present in the form of carboxylate anion –COO ^- .

As an example of an anionic type polymer, mention may be made of any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers of which at least a portion carries anionic type chemical functions, such as carboxylic acid functions. Such monomers are, for example, acrylic acid, maleic acid, or any ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one carboxylic acid function. It may, for example, be an anionic polymer comprising monomer units comprising at least one carboxylic acid type chemical function.

Preferably, the anionic polymer is hydrophilic, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water.

Examples of anionic polymers suitable for implementing the invention include copolymers of acrylic acid or maleic acid and other monomers, such as acrylamide, alkyl acrylates, C ₅ -C ₈ alkyl acrylates, C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylates, C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ alkyl methacrylates, methoxypolyethylene glycol methacrylates, hydroxyester acrylates, crosspolymer acrylates, and mixtures thereof.

According to the invention, an anionic type polymer is preferably a carbomer as described below. This polymer may also be a crosslinked acrylates/C ₁₀ - ₃₀ alkyl acrylate copolymer (INCI name: acrylates/C ₁₀ - ₃₀ alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer).

According to one embodiment, the shell of the drops comprises at least one anionic polymer, such as for example a carbomer.

In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, the term "carbomer" means an optionally crosslinked homopolymer resulting from the polymerization of acrylic acid. It is therefore an optionally crosslinked poly(acrylic acid). Among the carbomers of the invention, mention may be made of those marketed under the names Tego ^® Carbomer 340FD from Evonik, Carbopol ^® 981 from Lubrizol, Carbopol ETD 2050 from Lubrizol, or Carbopol Ultrez 10 from Lubrizol.

According to one embodiment, the term "carbomer" or "carbomer" or "Carbopol ^® " is understood to mean a high molecular weight acrylic acid polymer crosslinked with allyl sucrose or allyl ethers of pentaerythritol (Handbook of Pharmaceutical Excipients, 5th ^Edition , plll). For example, it is Carbopol ^® 910, Carbopol ^® 934, Carbopol ^® 934P, Carbopol ^® 940, Carbopol ^® 941, Carbopol ^® 71G, Carbopol ^® 980, Carbopol ^® 971P or Carbopol ^® 974P. According to one embodiment, the viscosity of said carbomer is between 4,000 and 60,000 cP at 0.5% w/w.

Carbomers have other names: polyacrylic acids, carboxyvinyl polymers or carboxy polyethylenes.

A dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2%, and preferentially from 0.10% to 0.5%, of anionic polymer(s), in particular carbomer(s), relative to the total weight of said dispersion.

Cationic polymer

The drops, and in particular the bark of said drops, further comprise at least one cationic polymer. They may also comprise several cationic polymers. This cationic polymer is the one mentioned above which forms the bark by coacervation with the anionic polymer.

In the context of this application, and unless otherwise stated, the term "cationic polymer" or "cationic polymer" means a polymer comprising cationic chemical functions. It may also be referred to as a cationic polyelectrolyte.

Preferably, the cationic polymer is lipophilic or liposoluble.

In the context of this application, and unless otherwise stated, by "cationic type chemical function" is meant a chemical function B capable of capturing a proton to give a BH ⁺ function. Depending on the conditions of the medium in which it is found, the cationic type polymer therefore comprises chemical functions in B form, or in BH ⁺ form, its conjugated acid.

As an example of cationic chemical functions, we can cite the primary, secondary and tertiary amine functions, possibly present in the form of ammonium cations.

As an example of a cationic type polymer, we can cite any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers of which at least one part carries chemical functions of the cationic type, such as primary, secondary or tertiary amine functions.

Such monomers are, for example, aziridine, or any ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

Examples of cationic polymers suitable for implementing the invention include amodimethicone, derived from a silicone polymer (polydimethylsiloxane, also called dimethicone), modified by primary amine and secondary amine functions.

We can also cite derivatives of amodimethicone, such as for example copolymers of amodimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, and more generally linear or branched silicone polymers comprising amine functions.

According to one embodiment, the drops, and in particular the bark of said drops, comprise amodimethicone, which advantageously corresponds to the following formula:

in which:

- R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ , independently of each other, represent OH or CH ₃ ;

- R ₄ represents a -CH ₂ - group or a -X-NH- group in which X is a divalent C3 or C4 alkylene radical;

- x is an integer between 10 and 5,000, preferably between 30 and 1,000, and better still between 80 and 300;

- y is an integer between 1 and 1,000, preferably between 2 and 1,000, and better between 4 and 100, and better between 5 and 20; and

- z is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 0 and 1, and better is equal to 1.

The cationic polymer according to the invention may be one of the following commercial products: CAS 3131 from Nusil, KF 8005 S or KF 8004 from Shin Etsu, Silsoft AX or SF 1708 from Momentive and DC 8500, DC 2-2078 or DC 2-8566 from Dow Corning.

The cationic polymer according to the invention may be an amodimethicone such as, for example, one of the following commercial products: CAS 3131 from Nusil, KF 8005 S or KF 8004 from Shin Etsu, SF 1708 from Momentive and DC 2-8566 from Dow Corning.

According to another preferred embodiment, the cationic polymer corresponds to the following formula:

• X¹représente -O-, -CH₂- ou -NH-, de préférence -NH-,
• R¹représente un radical alkylène divalent, linéaire, cyclique ou ramifié, comprenant de 20 à 50 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 25 à 45 atomes de carbone, mieux de 30 à 40 atomes de carbone, et préférentiellement de 34 à 36 atomes de carbone, R¹pouvant inclure un radical cycloalkylène comprenant de 3 à 10 atomes de carbone, de préférence comprenant 6 atomes de carbone, ledit radical cycloalkylène étant éventuellement substitué par une ou plusieurs chaînes alkyles comprenant de 6 à 10 atomes de carbone.

in which:

• X ¹ represents -O-, -CH ₂ - or -NH-, preferably -NH-,
• R ¹ represents a divalent, linear, cyclic or branched alkylene radical, comprising from 20 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 25 to 45 carbon atoms, better still from 30 to 40 carbon atoms, and preferentially from 34 to 36 carbon atoms, R ¹ possibly including a cycloalkylene radical comprising from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably comprising 6 carbon atoms, said cycloalkylene radical being optionally substituted by one or more alkyl chains comprising from 6 to 10 carbon atoms.

According to yet another preferred embodiment, the cationic polymer corresponds to the following formula:

• n est un nombre entier compris de 1 à 5, de préférence compris de 1 à 3, préférentiellement égal à 1 ou 2,
• X¹et X², identiques ou différents, représentent, indépendamment l’un de l’autre, -O-, -CH₂- ou -NH-, de préférence l’un au moins des groupes X¹et X², voire X¹et X², représentant -NH-,
• R¹, R²et R³, identiques ou différents, représentent indépendamment les uns des autres un radical alkylène divalent, linéaire, cyclique ou ramifié, comprenant de 20 à 50 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 25 à 45 atomes de carbone, mieux de 30 à 40 atomes de carbone, et préférentiellement de 34 à 36 atomes de carbone, R¹, R²et R³pouvant inclure un radical cycloalkylène comprenant de 3 à 10 atomes de carbone, de préférence comprenant 6 atomes de carbone, ledit radical cycloalkylène étant éventuellement substitué par une ou plusieurs chaînes alkyles comprenant de 6 à 10 atomes de carbone,
• R⁴et R⁵, identiques ou différents, représentent, indépendamment l’un de l’autre, H, OH ou NH₂, l’un au moins des groupes R⁴et R⁵représentant NH₂.

in which:

• n is an integer from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3, preferably equal to 1 or 2,
• X ¹ and X ² , identical or different, represent, independently of one another, -O-, -CH ₂ - or -NH-, preferably at least one of the groups X ¹ and X ² , or even X ¹ and X ² , representing -NH-,
• R ¹ , R ² and R ³ , which may be identical or different, represent, independently of one another, a divalent, linear, cyclic or branched alkylene radical comprising from 20 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 25 to 45 carbon atoms, better still from 30 to 40 carbon atoms, and preferentially from 34 to 36 carbon atoms, R ¹ , R ² and R ³ possibly including a cycloalkylene radical comprising from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably comprising 6 carbon atoms, said cycloalkylene radical being optionally substituted by one or more alkyl chains comprising from 6 to 10 carbon atoms,
• R ⁴ and R ⁵ , identical or different, represent, independently of one another, H, OH or NH ₂ , at least one of the groups R ⁴ and R ⁵ representing NH ₂ .

According to the invention, a dispersion may comprise from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.05% to 5%, better still from 0.1% to 2.5%, very particularly from 0.5% to 1%, by weight of cationic polymer(s) relative to the total weight of the phase comprising it, and in particular of the fatty phase.

Cationic polymers and/or surfactants lipophilic

As can be seen from the examples below, the presence in the fatty phase of at least one lipophilic cationic polymer and/or surfactant can make it possible to improve the properties of a dispersion according to the invention in terms of adhesion of the drops to each other. This is particularly the case when one of the two lipophilic gelling agents is at least one pasty fatty substance chosen from a wax, a butter, and their mixtures, and in particular is at least one wax.

As lipophilic cationic polymers, those described above may be mentioned.

A lipophilic cationic surfactant according to the invention may be chosen from any lipophilic cationic surfactant known to those skilled in the art.

Preferably, the cationic surfactant may be chosen from those marketed by SurfactGreen under the names CosmeGreen ES1822+ (INCI: Arachidyl/Behenyl Betainate Esylate (and) Arachidyl/Behenyl Alcohol) or CosmeGreen MB1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Betainate Mesylate), those marketed by Evonik under the name Varisoft EQ 90 (INCI: Dioleoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate) or Varisoft EQ 100 (INCI: Bis-(Isostearoyl/Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate), or those marketed by Inolex under the name KerazyneMB (INCI: Polyester-11), and mixtures thereof.

According to the invention, a dispersion may comprise from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.05% to 5%, better still from 0.1% to 2.5%, very particularly from 0.5% to 1%, by weight of lipophilic cationic polymer(s) and/or surfactant(s) relative to the total weight of the phase comprising it, and in particular of the fatty phase.

Additional compound(s)

According to the invention, the continuous aqueous phase and/or the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional compound different from the aforementioned anionic and cationic polymers, surfactants, oils, pigments and lipophilic gelling agents.

According to the invention, the continuous aqueous phase and/or the dispersed fatty phase may thus also comprise powders; coloring agents; blurring effect fillers/soft-focus fillers, in particular as described in WO2019053236; emulsifying and/or non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, in particular as described in EP2353577; hydrophilic texturing agents (or hydrophilic gelling agents), in particular as described in FR3041251; preservatives; humectants; stabilizers; pH stabilizing agents, in particular a pH buffer (eg HEPES, PBS); chelators; emollients; etc. or any usual cosmetic additive; and mixtures thereof.

The continuous phase and/or the dispersed phase, in particular the fatty phase, of a dispersion according to the invention may also further comprise at least one active agent, in particular biological or cosmetic, preferably chosen from moisturizing agents, healing agents, depigmenting agents, UV filters, desquamating agents, antioxidant agents, active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and/or epidermal macromolecules, dermo-contracting agents, antiperspirant agents, soothing agents, anti-aging agents, perfuming agents, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, a dispersion according to the invention does not comprise hydrophilic surfactant, vitamin E (or tocopheryl acetate), magnesium sulfate, poloxamer, EDTA (or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid), and mixtures thereof.

Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additional and/or active compound(s) mentioned above and/or their respective quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of a dispersion according to the invention, as well as their manufacturing processes, are not or are not substantially altered by the envisaged addition. In particular, the nature and/or the quantity of the additional and/or active compound(s) depend on the aqueous or oily nature of the phase considered and/or the process implemented (in particular of the “non-microfluidic” or “microfluidic” type). These adjustments fall within the skills of the person skilled in the art.

Preparation process

The dispersions according to the invention can be prepared by different processes.

Thus, the dispersions according to the invention have the advantage of being able to be prepared according to a simple “non-microfluidic” process, namely by simple emulsification.

As in a classic emulsion, an aqueous solution and a fatty solution are prepared separately. It is the addition, with stirring, of the fatty phase into the aqueous phase which creates the direct emulsion and therefore the dispersion according to the invention.

The viscosity of the aqueous phase and the shear force applied to the mixture are the two main parameters which influence the size (and therefore the macroscopic character) and the monodispersity of the drops of the dispersion according to the invention.

A person skilled in the art will know how to adjust the non-microfluidic process to satisfy the criterion of average diameter of the drops of the dispersion according to the invention.

The dispersions according to the invention can also be prepared according to a microfluidic process. A microfluidic process capable of manufacturing dispersions according to the invention are described in particular in WO2012/120043, WO2015/055748 or WO2019145424.

The different fluids, in particular their flow rates, can be implemented in a microfluidic process according to the invention in a hydrodynamic mode called “dripping” or “jetting” (formation of a liquid jet at the outlet of the microfluidic device, then fragmentation of the jet in the ambient air under the effect of gravity).

The presence, in the fatty phase, of at least two gelling agents as described above, in particular heat-sensitive ones, may require adjustments to the process for preparing a dispersion according to the invention. In particular, the process for preparing a dispersion according to the invention may comprise a step of heating (between 40°C and 150°C, in particular between 50°C and 90°C) at least the fatty phase and optionally the aqueous phase before mixing/bringing said fatty phase into contact with the aqueous phase and, where appropriate and in the case of a “non-microfluidic” process as mentioned above, maintaining this heating during stirring until the desired dispersion is obtained.

According to one embodiment, the process for preparing the dispersions of the invention comprises at least the following steps:

- optionally, heating an oily fluid FI to a temperature of from 40°C to 150°C, preferably from 60°C to 130°C, and better still from 80°C to 110°C;

- optionally, heating an aqueous fluid FE, at a temperature of from 40°C to 150°C, preferably from 60°C to 130°C, and better still from 80°C to 110°C;

- bringing into contact an aqueous fluid FE and an oily fluid FI as defined below; and

- the formation of drops of fatty phase, consisting of the oily fluid FI, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, consisting of fluid FE, said drops optionally comprising a shell isolating the core of the drops from the fatty phase of the dispersion,

in which:

- the oily fluid FI comprises at least one pigment and at least two different lipophilic gelling agents and optionally in addition at least one oil, and

- the aqueous fluid FE comprises at least water and, optionally, at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

According to one embodiment, a method according to the invention, in particular the step of forming the drops, may further comprise a step of injecting a solution for increasing the viscosity of the continuous aqueous phase of the fluid FE, in particular when the continuous aqueous phase comprises at least one pH-dependent hydrophilic gelling agent, for example a carbomer. Preferably, the viscosity-increasing solution is aqueous. This viscosity-increasing solution is typically injected into the aqueous external fluid FE after formation of the dispersion according to the invention, and therefore after formation of the drops.

According to one embodiment, the viscosity increasing solution comprises a base, in particular an alkali hydroxide, such as sodium hydroxide.

Depending on the pigment(s) used, a process for preparing a dispersion according to the invention may comprise the steps consisting of:

(a) providing at least one pigment optionally pretreated with an additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment, then

b) optionally grinding said at least one pigment, said grinding preferably taking place when the at least one pigment is not pretreated,

c) dispersing the at least one pigment in at least one oily fluid FI,

d) optionally, heating said oily fluid FI and optionally the aqueous fluid FE, to a temperature between 40°C and 150°C, preferably between 50°C and 90°C;

e) bringing the aqueous fluid FE and the oily fluid FI into contact; and

f) forming drops of fatty phase, consisting of the oily fluid FI, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase consisting of aqueous fluid FE, said drops optionally comprising a shell isolating the core of the drops from the fatty phase of the dispersion,

wherein the oily fluid FI and the aqueous fluid FE are as previously described.

Of course, the person skilled in the art will ensure that the parameters of the manufacturing process are adjusted to ensure its proper functioning, in particular so as to ensure the implementation of phases with suitable fluidity, achievable in particular by increasing the temperature of said phases. These adjustments fall within the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

Uses

Preferably, a dispersion according to the invention can be used directly, following the abovementioned preparation processes, as a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition. The dispersion according to the invention, when prepared using a microfluidic process as described above, can also be used as a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, after separation of the drops and redispersion thereof in a second appropriate phase.

The invention also relates to the use of at least one dispersion according to the invention for introduction into a cosmetic composition.

The dispersions according to the invention can in particular be used in the cosmetic field.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup composition, comprising at least one dispersion as defined above.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the above-mentioned ingredients, at least one physiologically acceptable medium.

The invention therefore also relates to a composition comprising at least one dispersion as defined above in association with an acceptable physiological medium.

By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes or eyebrows, and preferably the skin.

The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the aspect in which the composition is to be packaged.

The presence of a physiologically acceptable medium can contribute to improving the conservation and/or preserving the integrity over time of the drops of a dispersion according to the invention.

According to one embodiment, the physiologically acceptable medium is in the form of an aqueous gel, the viscosity of which is adapted, in particular to ensure the suspension of the drops according to the invention.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions are used for the makeup and/or care of keratin materials, in particular the skin.

These compositions are therefore intended to be applied in particular to the skin, lips or hair, and therefore for topical use.

Thus, the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a dispersion or composition according to the invention, as a makeup and/or care product for keratin materials, in particular the skin.

More particularly, a dispersion or composition according to the invention may for example be a mascara, a complexion product, such as a foundation, an eyeliner, an eye shadow or blush, a lip product such as a lipstick or a lip gloss, an eye shadow, complexion products or lip products, a BB cream, a CC cream, and preferably a foundation.

The dispersion or composition of the invention may be in the form of a single-phase or two-phase lotion, emulsion, gel, stick or cream.

A dispersion or composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of a foundation to be applied to the face or neck, a concealer, a complexion corrector, a tinted cream or a make-up base for the face or a make-up composition for the body.

The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment, in particular of make-up and/or care, preferably of make-up, of a keratin material, in particular of the skin, lips or hair, and more particularly of the skin, comprising at least one step of application to said keratin material of at least one dispersion or composition according to the invention.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression “comprising a” should be understood as being synonymous with “comprising at least one”, unless otherwise specified.

The expressions “between … and …”, “from … to …” and “ranging from … to …” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

The quantities of the ingredients appearing in the examples are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.

EXAMPLES

Unless otherwise indicated, the dispersions described below result from a microfluidic process as described above or in WO2017046305. The microfluidic device implemented is divided into two parts, a first part where the contact between the IF (or FI) and the OF (or FE) is carried out hot (between 75 and 90°C) so as to form the dispersion, and a second part ensuring rapid cooling of the dispersion formed to accelerate the gelling kinetics of the drops and thus prevent the risks of coalescence of the drops post-formation (cooling temperature: between 5 and 28°C).

Example 1 : Preparation of macroscopic drop dispersions pigmented with ASL pigments

Dispersions of macroscopic drops of a gelled fatty phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase are prepared. The compositions of the phases (fluids) allowing the preparation of the dispersions are described in Tables 1 and 2 below.

Example 1 is based on 20 trials, 10 without amodimethicone (designated by the letter X) and 10 with amodimethicone (designated by the letter A). For illustration purposes, trial 7 with amodimethicone will be designated “Trial 7A”.

Preparation protocol: For the OF:

Phenoxyethanol, Pentylene Glycol and EDTA are incorporated into water. The mixture is stirred for 5 min.

The carbomer is then dispersed in the previous mixture with stirring for 30 minutes using a deflocculating paddle.

Glycerin is then added and the mixture is stirred for 10 min.

The soda is then added and the solution is mixed for 10 minutes.

For the IF:

Amodimethicone, when present, is added to part of the Labrafac CC and Cetiol CC and then mixed using a magnetic bar for 5 min.

The mixture is heated to 80°C and the lipophilic gelling agents are added with stirring in the deflocculator until a homogeneous solution is obtained (= Solution 1). In parallel, a pigment ground material is prepared by mixing the pigments with the rest of Labrafac CC and Cetiol CC with stirring (= Solution 2). Solutions 1 and 2 are mixed with stirring in the deflocculator at 80°C until a homogeneous solution is obtained. The IF solution is kept warm (80°C) and with stirring and is injected into the microfluidic device using a gear pump (Reference HNPM).

For BF: the soda and water are mixed using a magnetic bar for 5 min.

In these tests, the following flow rates were used:

The dispersions obtained comprise drops having an average diameter greater than 100 μm, in particular an average diameter of approximately 1000 μm.

Observed parameters:

Each test is then packaged in several 30 ml glass containers filled halfway. A stability analysis is carried out for 1 month at Room Temperature (RT), 50°C and cycle with a microscope evaluation at D+7, D+14 and M+1, during which the dispersions are observed under the microscope in terms of oil leakage, adhesion of drops to the walls of the packaging, aggregation of drops between them and stickiness. By "cycle", we mean a cycle of temperature variation between +40°C and -10°C over periods of 8 hours for each temperature.

Scoring criteria:

A score of 3 on at least one of the above parameters will be disqualifying.

Results :

In view of the above, the implementation of a gelling system with at least two different lipophilic gelling agents makes it possible to improve the performance of a dispersion of macroscopic drops of a pigmented fatty phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, and in particular to achieve a satisfactory compromise between oil leakage, adhesion, aggregation and stickiness.

Considering all these parameters, the best performance is obtained with test 8.

When the gelling system includes at least one wax, it is noted that the presence of amodimethicone can be advantageous in reducing adhesion.

Five additional trials were conducted, which differ from Trial 8A by replacing amodimethicone in favor of, respectively:

- CosmeGreen ES1822+ (INCI: Arachidyl/Behenyl Betainate Esylate (and) Arachidyl/Behenyl Alcohol) at a concentration of 2.5%,

- CosmeGreen MB1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Betainate Mesylate) at a concentration of 2.5%,

- Kerazyne MB (INCI: Polyester-11) at a concentration of 0.25%,

- Varisoft EQ 100 (INCI: Bis-(Isostearoyl/Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate) at a concentration of 0.5%, and

- of the compound of formula (III) described in the patent application filed under no. FR2205166 at a concentration of 0.4%.

Similar results have been observed, particularly with the compound of formula (III) described above and in the patent application filed under no. FR2205166.

Note that tests 5 to 9 all remain endowed with satisfactory properties in terms of high coverage and hydration.

Example 2 : Influence of u weight ratio " first and second lipophilic gelling agents »

From the 5X test of Example 1, 5 other dispersions are prepared which differ only in the weight ratio of “first and second lipophilic gelling agents”, as described in Table 7 below.

Results :

After testing at different weight ratios “Estogel M / RheoPearl KL2”, we notice that:

- the higher the percentage of Rheopearl KL2, the more the oil leak phenomena decrease; and

- the higher the percentage of Rheopearl KL2, the higher the aggregation phenomena of the drops, which can be counteracted with the use of amodimethicone.

Best results are obtained with tests 5Xiii, 5Xiv and 5Xv, in the following order 5Xiv > 5Xiii > 5Xv.

Similar results were obtained by replacing Estogel M with OILKEMIA™ 5S polymer (INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79).

Example 3 : Preparation of macroscopic drop dispersions pigmented with UNIPURE pigments

Dispersions of macroscopic drops of a gelled fatty phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase are prepared which differ from those described in Example 1 by the replacement of the ASL pigments with UNIPURE pigments from Sensient. The compositions of the phases (fluids) allowing the preparation of the dispersions are described in Table 9 below.

The composition of the aqueous phase (OF) and the base (BF), the preparation protocol, the flow rates, the observed parameters and the scoring criteria are identical to those described in example 1.

The observed results are similar, or even slightly superior, to those obtained in example 1.

Claims (16)

Dispersion comprising a fatty phase in the form of drops dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, the fatty phase comprising at least one pigment and at least two lipophilic gelling agents, preferably heat-sensitive. Dispersion according to claim 1, in which the two lipophilic gelling agents are chosen from:
- at least one ester of sugar/polysaccharide and fatty acid(s);
- at least one lipophilic polyurethane gelling agent chosen from Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79 and/or Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer; Or
- at least one pasty fatty substance chosen from a wax, a butter, and their mixtures. Dispersion according to claim 1 or 2, in which the ester of sugar/polysaccharide and fatty acid(s) is chosen from esters of dextrin and fatty acid(s), esters of inulin and fatty acid(s), esters of glycerol and fatty acid(s), and mixtures thereof, preferably from esters of dextrin and fatty acid(s), and in particular from dextrin palmitate. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the two lipophilic gelling agents are chosen from:
- at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s);
- Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride; Or
- at least one wax. A dispersion according to any preceding claim, wherein:
- the first lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s) and the second lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride;
- the first lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s) and the second lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one wax; or
- the first lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and the second lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one wax. Dispersion according to the preceding claim, in which the weight ratio “first lipophilic gelling agent(s) / second lipophilic gelling agent(s)” is between 50:50 and 25:75, preferably between 45:55 and 30:70, and better still between 35:65 and 30:70. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty phase comprises between 1% and 30%, preferably between 2.5% and 20%, and in particular between 5% and 12%, by weight of lipophilic gelling agents relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty phase comprises between 1% and 60%, preferably between 5% and 50%, in particular between 10% and 40%, better still between 15% and 35%, preferably between 20% and 35%, and very particularly between 25% and 35%, by weight of pigment(s) relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the dispersion comprises between 1% and 60%, preferably between 5% and 50%, in particular between 10% and 40%, and in particular between 15% and 30%, by weight of fatty phase relative to the total weight of the dispersion. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the drops having a diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm represent a volume greater than or equal to 60%, or even greater than or equal to 70%, preferably greater than or equal to 80%, and better still greater than or equal to 90% of the total volume of the dispersed phase and/or at least 60%, or even at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, and better still at least 90%, of the drops have an average diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm. A dispersion according to any preceding claim, wherein the continuous aqueous phase comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the dispersed fatty phase further comprises at least one lipophilic cationic polymer and/or at least one lipophilic cationic surfactant. Dispersion according to the preceding claim, in which the dispersion comprises from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.05% to 5%, better still from 0.1% to 2.5%, and very particularly from 0.5% to 1%, by weight of lipophilic cationic polymer(s) and/or surfactant(s) relative to the total weight of the phase comprising it. A process for preparing a dispersion as defined in any one of the preceding claims, comprising the following steps:
- optionally, heating an oily fluid FI, at a temperature of from 40°C to 150°C, preferably from 60°C to 130°C, and better still from 80°C to 110°C;
- optionally, heating an aqueous fluid FE, at a temperature of from 40°C to 150°C; preferably from 60°C to 130°C, and better still from 80°C to 110°C;
- bringing into contact an aqueous fluid FE and the oily fluid FI; and
- the formation of drops of fatty phase, consisting of the oily fluid FI, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, consisting of fluid FE,
in which:
- the oily fluid FI comprises at least one pigment and at least two lipophilic gelling agents and optionally in addition at least one oil, and
- the aqueous fluid FE comprises at least water and, optionally, at least one hydrophilic gelling agent. Composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising at least one dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 13. Non-therapeutic process for cosmetic treatment, in particular make-up and/or care, preferably make-up, of a keratin material comprising at least one step of application to said keratin material of at least one dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 13 or of at least one cosmetic composition according to claim 15.