WO2023094468A1 - Shell-free macroscopic dispersion with pigmented fatty phase - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a dispersion comprising a dispersed phase including droplets and a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, in which the droplets have a fatty phase comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent and at least one pigment, wherein: - the fatty phase has a melting point of between 50°C and 100°C, preferably between 60°C and 90°C, and meets the following physicochemical criteria at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure: - a hardness (x) of between 2 and 14 N, preferably between 2.5 and 12 N, more preferably between 3 and 9 N, and especially preferably between 4 and 6 N; and - a tack (y) greater than or equal to -2 N, preferably greater than or equal to -1 N, and especially preferably greater than or equal to -0.6 N; and - the dispersion does not comprise amodimethicone.

Description

MACROSCOPIC DISPERSION WITHOUT BARK WITH PIGMENTED FAT PHASE

The subject of the present invention is stable oil-in-water dispersions comprising an aqueous continuous phase and drops, in particular macroscopic drops, of a dispersed fatty phase comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent and pigments. It also relates to compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, containing said dispersions as well as their uses in the cosmetics field, and in particular as a make-up composition, in particular a foundation composition.

One of the main goals in cosmetics is to improve the outward appearance of the skin, especially the face. Generally, foundations are used to enhance features or hide imperfections in the skin. Due to their powdery and insoluble nature, the pigments are difficult to integrate into the dispersed phase of the dispersions.

Thus, it often proves complicated to add high levels of pigments in emulsified systems, in particular in the dispersed phases, without altering the stability, the sensory and the quality of the film deposited on the keratin materials and in particular the skin. . It is also difficult to reconcile in the same composition opposing technical performances such as coverage and the feeling of freshness, even hydration.

Thus, in the case of complexion make-up, the preferred emulsifying systems are mainly inverse emulsions with continuous-phase pigments in view of the good level of coverage and the homogeneous appearance they provide compared to direct emulsions. Their weak point, on the other hand, is a significant feeling of fat and stickiness and/or a lack of freshness and naturalness, and therefore a lack of lightness for the textures obtained. The few emulsifying systems of the “direct emulsion” type currently on the market comprise pigments generally present in a continuous aqueous phase, which gives them poor resistance to sweat and humidity.

The Applicant has however succeeded in overcoming these drawbacks by proposing in patent application WO2019053236 compositions in the form of dispersions comprising pigmented macroscopic drops capable of providing a long-lasting visual result on the skin with a feeling of lightness, freshness and good hydration on application. These dispersions are obtained using a microfluidic process and their kinetic stability is ensured in whole or in part thanks to the presence of a shell deriving a complex interfacial coacervation reaction which is based in particular on a silicone lipophilic cationic polymer, amodimethicone.

However, there is an increasingly strong demand from consumers for cosmetic compositions devoid of silicone compounds because of their environmental impact, since they are not biodegradable, and/or their suspected danger to health.

Furthermore, amodimethicone can sometimes lead to problems of compatibility with other raw materials and/or phenomena of aggregation of the drops between them and/or adhesion of the drops to the packaging, which for obvious reasons is not is not desirable.

Also, it is sometimes observed with the dispersions according to WO2019053236 that the drops of pigmented fatty phase have insufficient sphericity and/or mechanical strength. Without wishing to be bound by any theory, the Applicant believes that these defects may be the result of an interaction between the pigments and the amodimethicone, the latter then being less available to ensure the formation of the bark.

Finally, it is found that the presence of amodimethicone in a pigmented fatty phase generally induces an increase in the viscosity of this fatty phase which, for obvious reasons, is not desirable in a microfluidic process where the continuous phase must be sufficiently fluid and homogeneous to allow good emulsification at the injection duct of the disperse phase into the continuous phase.

Finally, it should be noted that the aforementioned drawbacks are exacerbated the more the diameter of the drops increases.

There is therefore a need for new dispersions comprising drops of a pigmented fatty phase, in particular of macroscopic size, dispersed in an aqueous continuous phase and which remain satisfactory in terms of kinetic stability, coverage, sensoriality, freshness, hydration, comfort on application, despite the absence of amodimethicone and therefore bark.

Thus, the present invention relates to a dispersion comprising a fatty phase in the form of drops, in particular macroscopic, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, the dispersed phase and the continuous phase being immiscible with each other at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in which the fatty phase comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent, at least one pigment and optionally at least one oil, in which: - the fatty phase has a melting point of between 50°C and 100°C, preferably between 60°C and 90°C, and, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, meets the following physicochemical criteria:

- a hardness (x) of between 2 and 14 N, preferably between 2.5 and 12 N, and better still between

3 and 9 N, and most particularly between 4 and 6 N; And

- a tackiness (y) greater than or equal to -2 N, better still greater than or equal to -1 N, and in particular greater than or equal to -0.6 N; And

- the dispersion does not include amodimethicone.

Preferably, the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention also has a cohesion (z) of less than or equal to 40, preferably less than or equal to 35, and better still less than or equal to 30.

As emerges from the examples below, and unexpectedly, the implementation of a pigmented dispersed fatty phase endowed with the above physicochemical properties makes it possible to obtain dispersions, in particular macroscopic, endowed with satisfactory or even improved performance. , in terms of sphericity and mechanical resistance, while retaining satisfactory properties in terms of visual and aesthetic rendering, coverage, and ease and comfort of application on the skin, despite the absence of amodimethicone and so bark.

Given the absence of amodimethicone, a dispersion according to the invention also allows more freedom as to the compounds and/or their contents, in particular of active ingredients, which can be encapsulated.

By "stable" or "kinetic stability" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, the absence of creaming or sedimentation of the drops of dispersed phase in the continuous phase, the absence of opacification of the aqueous continuous phase, the absence of aggregation of the drops between them, and in particular the absence of coalescence or Oswald ripening of the drops between them, the absence of adhesion of the drops to the packaging and the absence of material leakage from the dispersed phase to the continuous phase, or vice versa, for a dispersion according to the invention over a period of time greater than or equal to 1 month, preferably greater than or equal to 3 months, and better still greater than or equal at 6 months.

By "gelling agent" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, an agent making it possible to increase the viscosity of the phase devoid of said gelling agent, and preferably to achieve a final viscosity of the phase thus gelled greater than 20 000 mPa.s, preferably greater than 50,000 mPa.s, better still greater than 100,000 mPa.s, and very particularly greater than 200,000 mPa.s. By "macroscopic" or "macroscopic drop" or "macroscopic dispersion" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, drops of dispersed fatty phase visible to the naked eye, as opposed to microscopic drops not visible to the naked eye. Thus, preferably, in a dispersion according to the invention:

- drops having a diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm, or even greater than or equal to 200 μm, better still greater than or equal to 300 μm, in particular greater than or equal to 400 μm, preferably greater than or equal to 500 μm, even greater or equal to equal to 1,000 μm, or even between 100 μm and 3,000 μm, better still between 200 μm and 2,000 μm, in particular between 300 μm and 1,000 μm, better still between 500 μm and 3,000 μm, preferably between 1,000 μm and 2,000 μm, in particular between 800 μm and 1,500 μm, represent a volume greater than or equal to 60%, or even greater than or equal to 70%, preferably greater than or equal to 80%, and better still greater than or equal to 90%, the total volume of the dispersed phase, and/or

- at least 60%, even at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, and better still at least 90%, of the drops have an average diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm, even greater than or equal to 200 μm, better still greater than or equal to 300 μm, in particular greater than or equal to 400 μm, preferably greater than or equal to 500 μm, or even greater than or equal to 1,000 μm, or even between 100 μm and 3,000 μm, better still between 200 μm and 2,000 μm, in particular between 300 μm and 1000 μm, better still between 500 μm and 3000 μm, preferably between 1000 μm and 2000 μm, in particular between 800 μm and 1500 μm.

Determining the volume of drops having a particular diameter relative to the total volume of the dispersed phase falls within the general knowledge of those skilled in the art, in particular with regard to the method for measuring the diameter described below.

A dispersion according to the invention can be qualified as a macroscopically inhomogeneous mixture of two immiscible phases, in particular when the drops are macroscopic. In other words, in a dispersion according to the invention, each of the phases can be individualized, in particular with the naked eye.

In the context of the present invention, the aforementioned dispersions can be designated interchangeably by the term “emulsions”.

With regard to the nature of the phases, an emulsion according to the invention is an emulsion of the oil-in-water type (or direct emulsion), the dispersed fatty phase and the aqueous continuous phase being immiscible with each other at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. . Thus, the solubility of the fatty phase dispersed in the aqueous continuous phase is advantageously less than 5% by weight, and vice versa.

According to one embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention is such that the lipophilic gelling agent(s), in particular the wax(es), and the optional (s) surfactant(s) (or emulsifying system) are present at a respective total content as that the "lipophilic gelling agent(s)/surfactant(s)" weight ratio, in particular "wax(es)/surfactant(s)" is not less than or equal to 1, or even preferably is greater than 1.

According to another embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention does not comprise a surfactant.

According to one embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention does not comprise glyceryl trioctanoate, glycerol tricaprylate/caprate, and their mixture.

According to one embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention does not include:

- dextrin ester and fatty acid(s), and in particular dextrin palmitate(s), and/or silica optionally treated with hydrophobicity, for example fumed silica, and/or

- Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, in particular Pemulen™ EZ-4ll Polymeric Emulsifier from Lubrizol; and or

- Cetyl Ethylhexanoate.

Preferably, the drops advantageously have an apparent monodispersity (i.e. they are perceived by the eye as spheres identical in diameter).

The drops are advantageously substantially spherical.

The drops of a dispersion according to the invention are devoid of shell or membrane, in particular of polymeric membrane or membrane formed by interfacial polymerization. In particular, the drops of a dispersion according to the invention are not stabilized using a coacervate membrane (anionic polymer type (carbomer)/cationic polymer (amodimethicone)). In other words, the contact between the aqueous continuous phase and the dispersed fatty phase is direct.

Thus, according to one embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention does not comprise bark, in particular bark formed of a layer of coacervate interposed between the dispersed fatty phase and the continuous aqueous phase.

dans laquelle : - Ri, R2 et R3, indépendamment les uns des autres, représentent OH ou CH₃ ;In particular, a dispersion according to the invention does not comprise (is devoid of) lipophilic cationic polymer corresponding to the following formula:

in which : - Ri, R2 and R3, independently of each other, represent OH or CH ₃ ;

- R4 represents a group -CH ₂ - or a group -X-NH- in which X is a divalent alkylene radical in C3 or C4;

- x is an integer between 10 and 5000, preferably between 30 and 1000, and better still between 80 and 300;

- y is an integer between 1 and 1000, in particular between 2 and 1000, preferably between 4 and 100, and better still between 5 and 20; And

- z is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 0 and 1, and better still is equal to 1.

The drops differ from solid capsules, that is to say capsules provided with a solid bark (or “membrane”), such as for example those described in WO20 10/063937, and capsules provided with an evanescent bark , such as for example those described in WO2012120043.

According to the invention, the pH of a dispersion is typically between 4.0 and 8.0, in particular between 5.0 and 7.0.

Temperature and pressure

Unless otherwise indicated, in what follows, we consider that we are at ambient temperature (for example T=25°C ± 2°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, i.e. 1,013.10 ⁵ Pa or 1013 mbar).

Viscosity

The viscosity of a dispersion according to the invention or of at least one of its phases can vary significantly, which makes it possible to obtain varied textures. The viscosity is measured at ambient temperature and at ambient pressure according to the method described in WO2017046305.

According to one embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention has a viscosity of from 1 mPa.s to 500,000 mPa.s, preferably from 10 mPa.s to 300,000 mPa.s, better still from 400 mPa.s to 100 000 mPa.s, and more particularly from 1,000 mPa.s to 30,000 mPa.s, as measured at 25° C. according to the method described above.

Aqueous continuous phase

As indicated above, the dispersions according to the invention comprise an aqueous continuous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, in particular a gel having a viscosity suitable for suspending the drops and thus contributing to the kinetic stability and to the attractive visual of a dispersion according to the invention. Advantageously, the aqueous continuous phase is not solid at ambient temperature and at ambient pressure, that is to say that it is capable of flowing under its own weight.

According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase has a viscosity of between 400 mPa.s and 100,000 mPa.s, preferably between 800 mPa.s and 30,000 mPa.s, as measured at 25° C. according to the method described above.

The continuous phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises water.

In addition to distilled or deionized water, water suitable for the invention can also be natural spring water or floral water.

According to one embodiment, the mass percentage of water of the aqueous continuous phase is at least 30%, preferably at least 40%, in particular at least 50%, and better still at least 60 %, in particular between 70% and 98%, and preferably between 75% and 95%, relative to the total mass of said continuous phase.

The continuous aqueous phase of a dispersion according to the invention may also comprise at least one base. It may comprise a single base or a mixture of several different bases. The presence of at least one base in said aqueous continuous phase contributes in particular to enhancing the viscosity of the latter.

According to one embodiment, the base present in the aqueous phase is a mineral base.

According to one embodiment, the mineral base is chosen from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides and alkaline-earth metal hydroxides.

Preferably, the mineral base is an alkali metal hydroxide, and in particular NaOH.

According to one embodiment, the base present in the aqueous phase is an organic base. Among the organic bases, mention may be made, for example, of ammonia, pyridine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, or even triethylamine.

A dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and preferentially from 0.02% to 1% by weight of base, preferably from mineral base, and in particular NaOH, relative to the total weight of said dispersion.

Fat phase

The dispersed fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention has a melting point of between 50°C and 100°C, preferably between 60°C and 90°C. The melting point of a fatty phase can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC Q2000” by the company TA Instruments. The sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows: a 5 mg sample of the sample to be tested, previously heated to 80°C and taken with magnetic stirring using a spatula which is also heated, is placed in an airtight aluminum capsule, or crucible. Two tests are carried out to ensure the reproducibility of the results. The measurements are carried out on the calorimeter mentioned above. The oven is flushed with nitrogen. Cooling is provided by the RCS 90 heat exchanger. The sample is then subjected to the following protocol by first being brought to temperature at 20°C, then subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from 20°C to 130 °C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute, then is cooled from 130°C to -80°C at a cooling rate of 5°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from - 80°C to 130°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second rise in temperature, the variation of the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the apex of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature. The melting end temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample has melted.

The dispersed fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention must satisfy at least the following two physicochemical criteria of hardness and stickiness:

- a hardness (x) of between 2 N and 14 N, preferably between 2.5 N and 12 N, in particular between 3 and 9 N, and better still between 4 and 6 N. The hardness (or firmness )) corresponds to the maximum compression force measured in Newtons. Related to a dispersion according to the invention, the hardness (x) is an indicator of the sensory rendering of a dispersion on application to a keratin material, in particular the skin. On the one hand, the hardness must not be too low to guarantee the drops of dispersed fatty phase sufficient mechanical resistance, in particular to shearing and/or to mechanical stresses linked for example to the manufacture and packaging of the dispersion and/or or its transport, and thus guarantee satisfactory kinetic stability to the dispersion, in particular in the presence of non-airless packaging. On the other hand, the hardness must not be too high so as not to degrade the sensoriality, in particular the comfort and the ease of application of the dispersion on application to the skin. The above is exacerbated the larger the diameter of the drops of dispersed fatty phase of a dispersion. - a stickiness (y) greater than or equal to -2 N, better still greater than or equal to -1 N and in particular greater than or equal to -0.6 N. The stickiness (or adhesion (adhesiveness)) represents the work necessary to overcome the attractive forces between the surface of the product and the material with which it is in contact (for example, the total force necessary to separate the measuring tool from the sample). Related to a dispersion according to the invention, the stickiness criterion (y) is an indicator of the kinetic stability of the dispersion with regard to the phenomena of adhesion of the drops to the wall of the packaging.

The dispersed fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention advantageously also has a cohesion (z) less than or equal to 40, preferably less than or equal to 35, and better still less than or equal to 30. Preferably, the dispersed fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention advantageously has a cohesion (z) greater than or equal to 15, preferably greater than or equal to 20, and better still greater than or equal to 25. Advantageously, the dispersed fatty phase of a dispersion according to invention has a cohesion (z) of between 15 and 40, preferably between 20 and 35, and better still between 20 and 30. The cohesion (cohesiveness) corresponds to the way in which the tested product resists the second deformation, relative to the way how it behaved during the first deformation. The cohesion corresponds to the surface of the second curve (Area. 2) on the surface of the first curve (Area 1) (ie Area. 2/ Area. 1). In other words, cohesion represents the forces within the tested sample. Thus, strong bonds within the gel will allow a completely reversible deformation during the first compression which will induce a force A2 identical to the force A1, and therefore 100% cohesion. Consequently, the stronger the cohesion, the more the gel is deformable. The lower the cohesion, the more brittle the gel (weak bonds, no resistance to stress). Related to a dispersion according to the invention, the cohesion criterion (z) is an indicator of the kinetic stability of the dispersion with regard to the phenomena of aggregation, or even coalescence, of the drops of dispersed phase between them. Cohesion corresponds to the property of drops sticking to themselves. Thus, a minimum of cohesion is needed to ensure the “gelled” nature of the drops, but not too much to prevent the gelled drops from sticking together.

Hardness, adhesion and cohesion measurements are obtained using the shimadzu EZ-X texturometer and the texturometer protocol described below:

- the sample to be tested is placed in a 40 mm diameter mold filled to 75% of its height.

- The mobile used is a cylindrical acrylic mobile 12.7 mm in diameter. Moving the mobile involves 4 steps: 1) a 1st step after automatic detection of the sample surface where the mobile moves at the measurement speed of 1 mm/s, and penetrates the sample at a penetration depth of 5 mm, the software notes the value of the maximum force reached;

2) a 2nd so-called withdrawal step, at a speed of 1 mm/s, where the mobile returns to its initial position and rises by more than 5 mm; and the energy of withdrawal of the probe (negative force) is noted;

3) a 3rd step repeating the same action 1) described above; And

4) a 4th step repeating the same action 2) described above.

This combination of physicochemical criteria constitutes a non-obvious compromise characterizing an anhydrous gel that is brittle but not very sticky and not very elastic. As emerges from the examples below, this combination of physicochemical criteria provides access to dispersions, in particular macroscopic ones, endowed with satisfactory, or even improved, performance in terms of kinetic stability, and therefore of visual and aesthetic rendering, and of sensoriality. , in particular comfort and ease of application on the skin, despite the absence of amodimethicone and therefore of bark.

Regarding the hardness, the hardness values in N, obtained by the aforementioned measurement method, can easily be converted into Pa, for example with regard to the surface of the cylindrical acrylic spindle of 12.7 mm mentioned above.

Typically, 1 MPa is equivalent to 1 N/mm ² . Also, to convert the hardness values according to the invention measured into N, it suffices to divide them by the surface of the probe. For example, using a probe as above with a diameter of 12.7 mm, the surface thereof is equal to S=TT×(12.7/2) ² =126.68 mm ² . To obtain the hardness values in MPa, it would then be necessary to divide the values measured with this probe by 126.68.

For the above measurements, the aforementioned shimadzu EZ-X texturometer works in conjunction with the TRAPEZIUM X software.

The drops of dispersed fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention are preferably based on a viscoelastic gel with an elastic modulus greater than the viscous modulus. The drops do not flow under their own weight, but can be easily deformed by pressure, for example with a finger. Thus, their consistency is close to that of butter, with a malleable and prehensible character. The drops can be spread easily by hand, in particular on a keratin material, in particular the skin.

The dispersed fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent. It is essentially the combination between at least one lipophilic gelling agent and at least one oily solvent which allows the dispersed fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention to satisfy the physicochemical criteria x and y, even z, mentioned above.

Lipophilic gelling agent

Advantageously, a lipophilic gelling agent is a heat-sensitive gelling agent, namely which reacts to heat, and in particular is a gelling agent which is solid at room temperature and liquid at a temperature above 50° C., preferably above 60° C., and better above 70°C. Preferably, a heat-sensitive lipophilic gelling agent according to the invention has a melting point of between 50°C and 130°C, and preferably between 60°C and 120°C.

The lipophilic gelling agent according to the invention can be chosen from organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents; fatty substances that are solid at ambient temperature and pressure; and their mixtures.

Gelling agent(s) lipophilic) organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular

As inorganic lipophilic gelling agent, mention may be made of optionally modified clays such as hectorites modified with a Cw to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that marketed under the name of Bentone 38VÔ by the company ELEMENTIS. Mention may also be made of hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, also known as quaternium-18 bentonite, such as the products marketed or manufactured under the names Bentone 34 by the company Rheox, Claytone XL, Claytone 34 and Claytone 40 marketed or manufactured by the company Southern Clay, the modified clays known under the name of benzalkonium and quaternium-18 bentonites and marketed or manufactured under the names Claytone HT, Claytone GR and Claytone PS by the company Southern Clay, the clays modified by chloride of stearyldimethylbenzoylammonium, known as steralkonium bentonites, such as the products marketed or manufactured under the names Claytone APA and Claytone AF by the company Southern Clay, and Baragel 24 marketed or manufactured by the company Rheox.

Mention may also be made of fumed silica optionally treated hydrophobic at the surface, the size of the particles of which is less than 1 μm. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, we can substitute silanol groups by hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The hydrophobic groups can be:

- trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called “Silica silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R812Ô by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-530Ô by the company CABOT; Or

- dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called “Silica dimethyl silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972Ô and Aerosil R974Ô by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610Ô and CAB-O-SIL TS-720Ô by the company CABOT.

The hydrophobic fumed silica in particular has a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from approximately 5 to 200 nm.

The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, of three-dimensional structure, such as those marketed under the names KSG6Ô, KSG16Ô and KSG18Ô by the company SHIN-ETSU, Trefil E-505CÔ and Trefil E- 506CÔ by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYCÔ, SR DMF10Ô, SR-DC556Ô, SR 5CYC gelÔ, SR DMF 10 gelÔ and SR DC 556 gelÔ by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204Ô and JK 113Ô by GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name EthocelÔ by the company DOW CHEMICAL; galactommanans comprising from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per ose, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C1 to C6 alkyl chains, and in particular by C1 to C3 and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of the “diblock”, “triblock” or “radial” type of the polystyrene/polyisoprene, polystyrene/polybutadiene type such as those marketed under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-propylene) type such as those marketed under the name Kraton® by the company SHELL CHEMICAL CO or else of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane such as those marketed by the company PENRECO under the name Versagel® such as for example the mixture of butylene/ethylene/styrene triblock copolymer and ethylene/propylene/styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960). According to one embodiment, the gelling agents that can be used according to the invention can be chosen from the group consisting of polyacrylates; sugar/polysaccharide esters of fatty acid(s), in particular esters of dextrin and fatty acid(s), esters of glycerol and fatty acid(s) or esters of inulin and d 'Fatty acids ; polyamides, and mixtures thereof.

As lipophilic gelling agent, mention may also be made of polymers with a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymeric backbone having hydrocarbon repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one chain pendant fat and/or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon units, as described in applications WO 02/056847, WO 02/47619, in particular resins polyamides (in particular comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US 5783657.

As an example of a polyamide resin that can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of UNICLEAR 100 VG® marketed by the company ARIZONA CHEMICAL.

It is also possible to use silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in US 5,874,069, US 5,919,441, US 6,051,216 and US 5,981,680.

These silicone polymers can belong to the following two families:

- polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and/or

- polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or ramifications.

dans laquelle : n est un nombre entier allant de 2 à 200, de préférence allant de 20 à 150, et en particulier allant de 25 à 50, les radicaux R4, R5 et R6, identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi l'hydrogène ou un groupement acyle -CORa dans lequel le radical Ra représente un radical hydrocarboné, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, possédant de 5 à 50, de préférence de 5 à 25 atomes de carbone, sous réserve qu’au moins un desdits radicaux R4, R5 ou R6 est différent de l'hydrogène.Among the lipophilic gelling agents which can be used in the present invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates. According to one embodiment, the ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s) according to the invention is a mono- or poly-ester of dextrin and of at least one fatty acid corresponding to the following formula (II):

in which: n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably ranging from 20 to 150, and in particular ranging from 25 to 50, the radicals R4, R5 and R6, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group -CORa in which the radical Ra represents a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably having from 5 to 50 from 5 to 25 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of the said radicals R4, R5 or R6 is different from hydrogen.

Among the esters of dextrin and of fatty acid(s), mention may be made, for example, of dextrin palmitates, dextrin myristates, dextrin palmitates/ethylhexanoates and mixtures thereof. Mention may in particular be made of esters of dextrin and fatty acid(s) marketed under the names Rheopearl® KL2 or D2 (INCI name: dextrin palmitate), Rheopearl® TT2 (INCI name: dextrin palmitate ethylhexanoate), and Rheopearl® MKL2 ( INCI name: dextrin myristate) by the company Miyoshi Europe. Among the lipophilic gelling agents which can be used in the present invention, mention may also be made of the esters of inulin and fatty acid(s) marketed under the names Rheopearl® ISK2 or Rheopearl® ISL2 (INCI name: Stearoyl Inulin) by the company Miyoshi Europe.

Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the present invention, mention may also be made of the polyacrylates resulting from the polymerization of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate(s), preferably of C14-C30 alkyl acrylate(s). C24, and even more preferably C18-C22 alkyl acrylate(s). According to one embodiment, the polyacrylates are polymers of acrylic acid esterified with a fatty alcohol whose saturated carbon chain comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, or a mixture of said fatty alcohols . Preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises 18 carbon atoms or 22 carbon atoms. Among the polyacrylates, mention may more particularly be made of stearyl polyacrylate and behenyl polyacrylate. Preferably, the gelling agent is stearyl polyacrylate or behenyl polyacrylate. Mention may in particular be made of the polyacrylates marketed under the names Interlimer® (INCI name: Poly C10-C30 alkyl acrylate), in particular Interlimer® 13.1 and Interlimer® 13.6, by the company Airproducts.

Among the lipophilic gelling agents which can be used in the present invention, mention may also be made of esters of glycerol and of fatty acid(s), in particular a mono-, di- or triester of glycerol and of fatty acid(s). Typically, said ester of glycerol and fatty acid(s) can be used alone or as a mixture. According to the invention, it may be a glycerol ester and a fatty acid or a glycerol ester and a mixture of fatty acids. According to one embodiment, the fatty acid is chosen from the group consisting of behenic acid, isooctadecanoic acid, stearic acid, eicosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

dans laquelle : R1 , R2 et R3 sont, indépendamment l’un de l’autre, choisi parmi H et une chaîne alkyle saturée comprenant de 4 à 30 atomes de carbone, au moins un de R1 , R2 et R3 étant différent de H. Selon un mode de réalisation, R1 , R2 et R3 sont différents. On peut notamment citer les esters de glycérol et d’acide(s) gras commercialisés sous les dénominations Nomcort HK-G (nom INCI : Glyceryl behenate/eicosadioate) et Nomcort SG (nom INCI : Glyceryl tribehenate, isostearate, eicosadioate), par la société Nisshin Oillio. According to one embodiment, the ester of glycerol and fatty acid(s) has the following formula (III):

in which: R1, R2 and R3 are, independently of one another, chosen from H and a saturated alkyl chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, at least one of R1, R2 and R3 being different from H. According to one embodiment, R1, R2 and R3 are different. Mention may in particular be made of the esters of glycerol and of fatty acid(s) marketed under the names Nomcort HK-G (INCI name: Glyceryl behenate/eicosadioate) and Nomcort SG (INCI name: Glyceryl tribehenate, isostearate, eicosadioate), by the Nisshin Oillio company.

Macaws strong bodies

The fatty substance that is solid at ambient temperature and pressure is chosen in particular from the group consisting of waxes, pasty fatty substances, butters and mixtures thereof.

Raincoats)

By "wax" is meant within the meaning of the invention, a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C), reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 50 ° C up to 120°C.

The protocol for measuring this melting point is described previously.

The waxes capable of being used in a dispersion according to the invention can be chosen from waxes which are solid, deformable or not at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin and mixtures thereof. It is in particular possible to use hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and China insect waxes; Rice Wax, Carnauba Wax, Candelilla Wax, Ouricurry Wax, Alfa Wax, Cork Fiber Wax, Sugar Cane Wax, Japan Wax and Sumac Wax ; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers as well as their esters. Mention may in particular be made of the waxes marketed under the names Kahlwax®2039 (INCI name: Candelilla cera) and Kahlwax®6607 (INCI name: Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax) by the company Kahl Wachsraffinerie, Casid HSA (INCI name: Hydroxystearic Acid) by the SACI CFPA, Performa®260 (INCI name: Synthetic wax) and Performa®103 (INCI name: Synthetic wax) by New Phase, and AJK-CE2046 (INCI name: Cetearyl alcohol, dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethylhaxanoyl glutamide) by the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo. Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by hydrogenation catalyst of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, C8-C32. Among these, mention may in particular be made of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-( trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by the company HETERENE, the tetrabehenate of di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE.

It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils, such as castor oil or olive oil, such as the waxes sold under the names of Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR2792190.

It is also possible to use silicone waxes which can advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably with a low melting point.

Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (GOLDSCHMIDT), KF910 and KF7002 (SHIN ETSU), or 176-11 18-3 and 176-11481 (GENERAL ELECTRIC).

The silicone waxes that can be used can also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (WACKER), as well as (C20-C60) alkyldimethicones, in in particular (C30-C45) alkyldimethicones such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones.

It is also possible to use hydrocarbon waxes modified with silicone or fluorinated groups such as, for example: siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax from Koster Keunen.

The waxes can also be chosen from fluorinated waxes.

Butter(s) or pasty macaw body

By “butter” (also called “pasty fatty substance”) within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid state change and comprising at a temperature of 25° C. a liquid fraction and a fraction solid, and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound can be lower than 25°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 25° C. can represent from 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 25° C. preferably represents between 15% and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. Preferably, the butter or butters have a end of melting temperature below 60°C. Preferably, the butter(s) have a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa.

Preferably, the butters or pasty fatty substances present in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, visible by X-ray observations.

Within the meaning of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 1 1357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments .

Regarding the measurement of the melting temperature and the determination of the end of melting temperature, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as described in WO2017046305.

The liquid fraction by weight of butter (or pasty fatty substance) at 25°C is equal to the ratio of the melting enthalpy consumed at 25°C to the melting enthalpy of the butter. The melting enthalpy of butter or pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.

Butter is said to be in a solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. Butter is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The melting enthalpy of butter is equal to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained using the above-mentioned calorimeter, with a temperature rise of 5°C or 10°C per minute, depending on the standard ISO 11357-3:1999. Butter's enthalpy of melting is the amount of energy required to change the compound from solid to liquid. It is expressed in J/g.

The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 25°C is the quantity of energy absorbed by the sample to pass from the solid state to the state it presents at 25°C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32° C. preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50% to 100%, more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32°C is equal to 100%, the temperature at the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C. The liquid fraction of butter measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of melting consumed at 32°C to the enthalpy of melting of butter. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C.

Regarding the measurement of hardness, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as described in WO2017046305. The pasty fatty substance or butter can be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty fatty substance can be obtained by synthesis from starting products of plant origin.

The pasty fatty substance is advantageously chosen from:

- lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolins, polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds such as polydimethylsiloxanes of high molecular masses, polydimethylsiloxanes with side chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular stearyl dimethicones,

- polymeric or non-polymer fluorinated compounds,

- vinyl polymers, in particular

- olefin homopolymers,

- olefin copolymers,

- homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes,

- linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group,

- homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups,

- oligomers homo and copolymers of vinylethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups,

- liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols, preferably C2-C50,

- esters and polyesters, and

- their mixtures.

According to a preferred mode of the invention, the particular butter or butters are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, published on 06/15/2000, D01 : 10.1002/14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2 Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

Mention may more particularly be made of C10-C18 triglycerides (INCI name: C10-18 Triglycerides) comprising, at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction, shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter, (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo or tengkawang tallow butter or fat (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipé butter, Madhuca or Bassia Madhuca butter longifolia, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), Mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocatyum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), Coffee butter (Coffea arabica), Apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), Macadamia butter (Macadamia Temifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao ) and sunflower butter, butter under the INCI name Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, butter under the INCI name Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, and butter under the INCI name Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, jojoba esters (mixture of wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil (INCI name: Jojoba esters) and shea butter ethyl esters (INCI name: Shea butter ethyl esters), and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, in particular marketed under the name Estogel M by PolymerExpert, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane- 79, in particular marketed under the name OILKEMIA™ 5S polymer by the company Lubrizol, Trihydroxystearin, in particular marketed under the name THIXCIN® R by the company Elementis Specialties, and mixtures thereof, and better still Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride.

According to a particular embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention, in particular the fatty phase, does not comprise an elastomer gel comprising at least one dimethicone, in particular as marketed by NuSil Technology under the name CareSil™ CXG-1 104 (INCI: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer).

According to a particular embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention, in particular the fatty phase, does not comprise an organic lipophilic gelling agent chosen from semi-crystalline polymers, polycondensates of hydrocarbon-based polyamide type, ethylcellulose, polyamides silicones of the polyorganosiloxane type, galactommanans comprising from one to six hydroxyl groups per ose substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, block copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type, non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, organogelators, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, a dispersion according to the invention, in particular the fatty phase, does not comprise: - of ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer, in particular the COOLBIND 34-1300 reference from National Starch, and preferably at 2% by weight relative to the weight of the fatty phase;

- beeswax, and preferably at 4% by weight relative to the weight of the fatty phase;

- Carnauba wax, and preferably at 1.8% by weight relative to the weight of the fatty phase; and or

- of C36 hydrogen/ethylene diamine diacid condensate, esterified with stearyl alcohol, in particular the reference Uniclear 100 VG from Arizona Chemicals, and preferably at 2% by weight relative to the weight of the fatty phase.

Preferably, the viscosity of the fatty phase of the drops of a dispersion according to the invention is between 20,000 and 100,000,000 mPa.s, preferably between 50,000 and 1,000,000 mPa.s, and better still between 100,000 to 500,000 mPa.s, at 25°C.

Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the lipophilic gelling agent(s) and/or their quantity so as to satisfy the melting points and physicochemical properties x and y, or even z, of the phase aforementioned fat. In particular, the nature and/or the quantity of lipophilic gelling agent(s) must take into account the process implemented (in particular of the "non-microfluidic" or "microfluidic" type) for the manufacture of the dispersion according to the invention. These adjustments fall within the competence of a person skilled in the art with regard to the teaching of this description.

In particular, a dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 30%, preferably from 1% to 25%, in particular from 1.5% to 20%, better still from 2% to 15%, and any particularly from 5% to 12%, by weight of lipophilic gelling agent(s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

Preferably, the content of lipophilic gelling agent(s) is greater than or equal to 2%, preferably greater than or equal to 5%, and better still greater than or equal to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

These percentages refer to the lipophilic gelling agent(s) only present in the dispersed fatty phase.

Pigments

The fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least one pigment. The use of several pigments makes it possible to nuance the color of the fatty phase of the drops, and therefore of the dispersion, as desired.

By "pigment" is meant a coloring chemical substance insoluble in the phase in which the pigment is present. By “insoluble”, it is meant that the solubility at 20° C. of the pigment in the phase in which the pigment is present is less than 1 g/L, in particular less than 0.1 g/L, preferably less than 0.001 g/L.

Each pigment may independently be an organic, inorganic or hybrid organic-inorganic pigment. These are typically inorganic pigments.

The coloration conferred by a dispersion according to the invention can for example be measured by spectrocolorimetry and/or spectrophotocolorimetry.

Coverage corresponds to the ability of a composition to "hide the skin" / to "hide imperfections".

The coverage of a composition is measured at a finished thickness of 50 μm for liquid compositions at 25° C. to be applied to the lips, in particular liquid lipsticks, liquid lip glosses and liquid lip balms, and at a thickness of 150 pm for eye shadow, liquid foundation, mascara and other liquid makeup products not intended to be applied to the lips. The composition is spread on matt black and matt white contrast cards, for example of brand LENETA Form WPI for the matt black card and Leneta IA for the matt white card. The application can be done with an automatic spreader. When the composition is inhomogeneous, like a dispersion according to the invention, in particular when the drops (G1) are macroscopic, a step of mixing said dispersion, for example with Rayneri, prior to the step of applying (ie the spreading on cards) is preferably carried out to make it homogeneous. The measurements are carried out on the compositions thus spread out. Reflectance spectra are acquired using a MINOLTA 3700-d spectrocolorimeter (diffuse measurement geometry and D65/ ¹⁰⁰ observation, specular component mode excluded, small aperture (CREISS)) on black and white backgrounds. The spectra are expressed in colorimetric coordinates in the CIELab76 space within the meaning of the International Commission on Illumination according to recommendation 15:2004. The contrast ratio, or coverage, is calculated by taking the arithmetic mean of Y on a black background, divided by the mean value of Y on a white background, multiplied by 100.

By way of pigments, mention may in particular be made of titanium dioxide, zinc dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium and ferric blue, and mixtures thereof. Preferred inorganic pigments are iron oxides, including red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, black iron oxide, titanium dioxide, and mixtures thereof.

The pigment is preferably an iron oxide, especially red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, black iron oxide and mixtures thereof. Each pigment can be an untreated pigment or a treated pigment. Within the meaning of the application, “treated pigment” means a pigment having been treated with an additive improving its dispersibility within an oily or aqueous composition, in particular one of the additives defined below. By “untreated pigment” or “untreated pigment”, is meant a pigment that has not been treated with such an additive.

In view of the above, the fatty phase of the drops of a dispersion according to the invention comprises a high content of pigment(s).

Nevertheless, the aqueous continuous phase, or even the internal aqueous phase in the case of a complex dispersion as described below, can also comprise at least one pigment.

Preferably, when the phase comprising pigments is a fatty (or oily) phase, said phase also comprises hydrostearic acid or polyhydroxystearic acid, as sold by Phoenix Chemical under the name PELEMOL PHS-8, from preferably in a content of between 0.5% and 10%, in particular between 1.5% and 6%, and better still between 2.5% and 4%, by weight relative to the total weight of the phase considered.

The presence of such particular compound(s) is advantageous in that:

-it(s) make(s) possible to reduce the viscosity of a fatty phase comprising at least one pigment, for example a pigment/oil ground material (60:40), a fortiori of a phase highly loaded with pigments, and therefore making it fluid and more easily processable, in particular at the level of fluidic devices as described below; And

- they make it possible to maintain the size of the drops. Indeed, the inventors have observed that the implementation of pigment(s) in the dispersed fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention generally leads to a reduction in the size of the drops compared to the same dispersion but devoid of said pigment(s). (s).

Finally, maintaining the integrity of a dispersion according to the invention in the presence of this (these) compound(s) is unexpected. Indeed, this (these) compound(s) generally destabilizes the bark comprising at least one anionic polymer and at least one cationic polymer.

According to a first alternative, the pigment used is an untreated and unground pigment (pigment used “as is”).

According to a second alternative, the pigment used has undergone a preliminary treatment in order to make it more easily dispersible during the formulation of the pigment, that is to say in particular more easily dispersible in the phase considered. This preliminary treatment consists of grinding the pigment and/or pretreating it with an additive improving its dispersibility before formulating it in the form of a series of colored particles. The use of a ground pigment and/or a pigment pretreated with an additive improving its dispersibility:

- contributes to a liquid containing the ground and/or pretreated pigment having a low viscosity,

- contributes to the preparation of a dispersion whose dispersed fatty phase has a very high pigment content, comprising more than 23.5%, generally more than 25%, in particular more than 30%, even more than 40%, in weight of pigment(s) relative to the weight of the dispersed fatty phase,

- contributes to the reduction, or even avoids, the sedimentation of the pigment(s) in the phase(s) which contains them, and/or

- contributes to the reduction, or even avoids, the aggregation of pigments in the phase(s) which contain(s) them.

Generally, when several pigments are used, they all undergo the same treatment, i.e. they are all ground and/or they are all pretreated. However, some may be ground and untreated, and others processed and ground or unground.

According to a first embodiment according to the second alternative, the at least one pigment is pretreated with an additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment.

The nature of the additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment depends on the hydrophilic or lipophilic nature of the phase(s) which will include this treated pigment.

When a dispersion uses several pretreated pigments, these can be pretreated with identical or different additives from each other.

An additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment within an oily phase is chosen for example from hydrogenated lecithin, a silicone, a wax, an amino acid or one of its salts and an amino acid ester or one of its salts, and their mixtures. Hydrogenated lecithin comprises phosphate mono- and di-ester comprising fatty chains which promote dispersibility in the oily phase. The silicone additive can either be obtained from a silicone precursor, such as an alkoxyalkylsilane such as triethoxycaprylsilane, or such as a trialkylsiloxysilicate such as trimethylsiloxysilicate, or either be a silicone, such as dimethicone or one of its derivatives , for example bis-hydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone, or be obtained from a mixture of silicone and one of its precursors, for example a mixture of dimethicone and trimethylsiloxysilicate. The silicone additive can be a hybrid treatment, in particular a mixture of isopropyl titanium triisostearate, bis-hydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone, PEG-2 soyamine and isophorone diisocyanate (I PDI). The wax can for example be rose floral wax. The preferred amino acid is cystine, and preferred amino acid esters are sodium cocoyl glutamate, layroyl arginine or lauroyl lysine.

dans laquelle : An additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment within an aqueous phase is chosen, in particular, from an additive of formula (I) below:

in which :

- n represents 1 or 2,

- M represents H or a cation,

- m represents 1 when M is H and m represents the valence of the cation when M is a cation,

- R represents: a group G chosen from a saccharide or a group -[CH ₂ -CHRi-O] _q -R2 or -[CH ₂ -CH(CH ₂ OH)-O] _q -R ₂ where: q represents a integer from 1 to 1000, for each CH ₂ -CHRI-O unit, Ri independently represents H or a methyl,

R ₂ represents H or an alkyl comprising from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 500 carbon atoms substituted by one or more groups G, phosphate (of formula OPO3(M) ₂ / _m ) and / or hydroxyl (OH).

The group -[CH ₂ -CHRi-O] _q -R ₂ with Ri represents H corresponds to a polyethylene glycol (PEG). The -[CH ₂ -CHRi-O] _q -R ₂ group with Ri represents a methyl corresponds to a polypropylene glycol (PPG). The -[CH ₂ -CH(CH ₂ OH)-0] _q -R' group corresponds to a polyglycerol.

Typically, q is an integer from 1 to 500, especially from 1 to 100, preferably from 1 to 60.

dans laquelle M, m et R sont tels que définis ci-dessus. Preferably, n represents 2 and the additive has the following formula (I'):

wherein M, m and R are as defined above.

Within the meaning of the present application, a hydrocarbon chain comprises from 1 to 500 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 50, typically from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, of preferably 1 to 5 carbon atoms. Hydrocarbon chains can be linear, branched or cyclic. The preferred hydrocarbon chains are alkyl groups (preferably having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, especially 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 3, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl and isopropyl groups) , alkenyl (preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 6), aryl (preferably having 6 to 10 carbon atoms), arylalkyl (preferably having 7 to 10 carbon atoms) or alkylaryl (preferably having 7 to 10 carbon atoms). The vinyl group is the preferred alkenyl group. The phenyl group is the preferred aryl.

A saccharide can be a mono- or polysaccharide. Preferred saccharides are mono- or disaccharides, in particular monosaccharides such as glucose, galactose or fructose.

M can in particular be an inorganic cation, such as Ag ³⁺ , Al ³⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Fe ²⁺ , Ag ²⁺ , Zn ²⁺ , Sn ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ , Ba ²⁺ , Ag ⁺ , Na ⁺ or an organic cation, such as a diethanolammonium (DEA) (H ₃ N ⁺ -(CH ₂ )2-OH) OR a quaternary ammonium.

dans laquelle M, m et q sont tels que définis ci-dessus, The following additives of formula (II), (III) or (IV) below are particularly suitable for the implementation of the invention:

in which M, m and q are as defined above,

dans laquelle M et m sont tels que définis ci-dessus, (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2 and R represents an isopropyl hydrocarbon chain in which each of the carbon atoms is substituted by a group G which represents -[CH ₂ -CHRi-O] _q -R2 where R1 and R2 represent H),

in which M and m are as defined above,

dans laquelle M et m sont tels que définis ci-dessus et q’ et q” représentent indépendamment un nombre entier de 0 à 1000, généralement de 0 à 500, notamment de 0 à 100, de préférence de 0 à 60, tel que la somme de q’ et q” représentent indépendamment un nombre entier de 1 à 1000, (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2, R represents a group G of formula -[CH ₂ -CH(CH ₂ OH)-O] _q -R2 where q represents 1 and R2 represents H) ,

in which M and m are as defined above and q' and q” independently represent an integer from 0 to 1000, generally from 0 to 500, in particular from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 60, such that the sum of q' and q” independently represent an integer from 1 to 1000,

(which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2, R represents a group G of formula -[CH2-CHRi-O] _q -R2 where q represents the sum of q' and q” and, for q” first units, Ri represents a methyl and for the last q' units, Ri represents H, and R2 represents H).

The following additives of formula (V) and (VI) are also suitable:

(which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2, R represents a cyclohexyl hydrocarbon chain substituted in positions 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 by a phosphate group of formula OPO3H2),

(which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2, R represents a methyl hydrocarbon chain linked to a group G glucose), in which M and m are as defined above.

The following additives are particularly preferred:

- glycereth-26 phosphate, of formula (II') below:

(which corresponds to an additive of formula (II) in which M represents H and m represents 1), this additive being advantageously commercially available, for example from Croda®,

- glycerophosphate, of formula (III') below:

(which corresponds to an additive of formula (III) in which M represents Na and m represents 1), this additive being advantageously commercially available, for example from Dr Paul Lohman®,

- the PEG-26 PPG-30 diethanolammonium phosphate of formula (IV') below:

(which corresponds to an additive of formula (IV) in which M represents a diethanolammonium cation and m represents 1), this additive being advantageously commercially available, for example from Innospec®,

- phytic acid of the following formula (V'):

(which corresponds to an additive of formula (V) in which M represents H and m represents 1), this additive being advantageously commercially available, for example from Nutriscience®,

- glucose phosphate, of the following formula (VI'):

(which corresponds to an additive of formula (VI) in which M represents H and m represents 1), this additive being advantageously commercially available.

Advantageously, phytic acid is the additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment within an aqueous composition.

A process for preparing a pigment pretreated with an additive as defined above is for example described in WO2012/120098.

In this first embodiment according to the second alternative implementing a pretreated pigment, the pretreated pigment may then comprise a grinding step or be free thereof. This grinding makes it possible to limit, or even eliminate, the aggregates of pretreated pigments, which facilitates their subsequent incorporation into the phase(s) and/or contributes to reducing the sedimentation of the pigment in the phase(s). ) that contains it.

This grinding step can be implemented in the presence of a binder, or in the absence of binder (dry grinding).

The binder is for example glycerin, propanediol, a hydrogenated starch hydrolyzate, octyldodecanol, castor oil, a mineral oil, isononyl isononanoate, dimethicone and cyclomethicone, isododecane, and their mixtures .

Preferably, when the pigment is treated with an additive improving its dispersibility within an oily phase, the binder is chosen from glycerin, octyldodecanol, castor oil, a mineral oil, isononyl isononanoate, dimethicone and cyclomethicone, isododecane, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, when the pigment is not pretreated or when it is treated with an additive improving its dispersibility within an aqueous phase, the binder is chosen from propanediol, glycerin, a hydrogenated starch hydrolyzate, and their mixtures.

The mill is then typically chosen from three-cylinder mills, ball mills and plate mills.

When the grinding step is implemented in the absence of binder, the mill can be a pin mill, a jet micronizer, an impact mill, a hammer mill, a knife mill, a ball mill , a vibrating mill or a cryogenic mill.

According to a second embodiment according to the second alternative, the at least one pigment is not pretreated with an additive improving its dispersibility, and the method then includes a step of grinding the pigment. This grinding makes it possible to limit, or even eliminate, the aggregates of pretreated pigments, which facilitates their subsequent incorporation into the phase(s) and/or contributes to reducing the sedimentation of the pigment in the phase(s). ) that contains it.

The embodiments described above for grinding are of course applicable (type of grinder, absence or presence of binder).

Advantageously, a dispersion according to the invention comprises between 1% and 60%, preferably between 5% and 50%, in particular between 10% and 40%, in particular better still between 15% and 35%, and preferably between 20% and 25%, by weight of pigment(s) relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase comprising it(s).

A dispersion according to the invention is advantageous in that its aforementioned advantageous properties remain even in the presence of high levels of pigments in the dispersed fatty phase. Thus, a dispersion according to the invention advantageously comprises a content greater than or equal to 25%, preferably between 24% and 60%, in particular between 25% and 60%, preferably between 30% and 55%, in particular between 35 % and 50%, and better still between 40% and 45%, by weight of pigment(s) relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase comprising it(s).

Advantageously, when a phase other than the fatty phase (i.e. drops (G1) further comprises at least one pigment, in particular the aqueous continuous phase, a dispersion according to the invention comprises between 0% and 60%, preferably between 5 % and 55%, in particular between 10% and 50%, and better still between 15 and 40%, by weight of pigment(s) relative to the total weight of said phase.

Oils)

According to one embodiment, the dispersed fatty phase may comprise at least one oil.

The term “oil” is understood to mean a fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

As oils according to the invention, mention may be made, for example:

- hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, as described below;

- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane;

- synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a Cs to C29 fatty acid, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, C3 to C30, such as Purcellin's oil, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetrabehenate (DUB PTB) or pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631);

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam oil;

- silicone oils, such as for example polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatile or not with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendent or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

- fatty alcohols with 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), or even octyldodecanol;

- partially hydrocarbon and/or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;

- and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least one vegetable oil.

As hydrocarbon oil(s) of plant origin, mention may be made of caprylic and capric acid triglycerides, caprylic and capric acid triglycerides (also known as "MCT oil"), myristic and stearic (INCI name: Caprylic/capric/myristic/stearic Triglyceride), triethylhexanoin, meadowfoam seed oil Limnanthes Alba (INCI name: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil), macadamia nut oil ( INCI name: Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil), Rosa Canina Rosehip Oil (INCI name: Rosa Canina Fruit Oil), Soybean Oil (INCI name: Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil), sunflower (INCI name: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil), Tribehenin (INCI name: tribehenin), Triisostearin (INCI name: triisostearin), Apricot Kernel Oil (INCI name: Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil), Rice Bran Oil (INCI name: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil), Argan Oil (INCI name: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil), Avocado Oil (INCI name: Persea Gratissima Oil), Evening Primrose Oil (INCI name: Oenothera Biennis Oil), Rice Germ Oil (INCI name: Oryza Sativa Germ Oil), Hydrogenated Coconut Oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coconut Oil), Sweet Almond Oil (INCI name: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), Sesame Seed Oil (INCI name: Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil), Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil), Safflower Seed Oil (INCI name: INCI name: Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil), Macadamia integrifolia Queensland nut oil (INCI name: Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil), tricaprylin (or triacylglycerol), wheat germ oil (INCI name: Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil ), borage seed oil (INCI name: Borago Officinalis Seed Oil), shea oil (INCI name: Butyrospermum Parkii Oil), hydrogenated castor oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil), Chinese cabbage seed oil (INCI name: Brassica Campestris Seed Oil), camellia oil, and in particular Japanese camellia seed (INCI name: Camellia Japonica Seed Oil), green tea seed oil (name INCI: Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil), sea buckthorn oil (INCI name: Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil), Camellia Kissi seed oil (INCI name: Camellia Kissi Seed Oil), Moringa seed oil (INCI name: INCI: Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Oil), Canola Oil (INCI name: Canola Oil), Tea Seed Oil (INCI name: Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil), Carrot Seed Oil (INCI name: Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil), triheptanoin (INCI name: Triheptanoin), vanilla oil (INCI name: Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Oil), canola oil and phytosterol glycerides (INCI name: Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides), blackcurrant seed oil (INCI name: Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil), karanja seed oil (INCI name: Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil), achiote oil (INCI name: Roucou (Bixa orellana ) Oil), and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oil is chosen from vegetable oils rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids. The term "unsaturated fatty acid" within the meaning of the present invention, a fatty acid comprising at least one double bond. According to a preferred embodiment, unsaturated fatty acids containing from 18 to 22 carbon atoms are used as oil, in particular polyunsaturated fatty acids, in particular œ-3 and œ-6 fatty acids.

Advantageously, the fatty phase comprises at least one oil having a refractive index close to that of the aqueous continuous phase, namely an oil having a refractive index, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, preferably between 1.2 and 1 .6, preferably between 1.25 and 1.5, in particular between 1.3 and 1.4. This embodiment is advantageous in that it makes it possible to improve the transparency of the phase fat, and therefore the transparency of the dispersion according to the invention. Transparency can be qualified according to the method described in WO2018/167309. Advantageously, the oil having a refractive index of between 1.2 and 1.6 is a silicone oil, in particular a phenyl silicone oil.

Advantageously, the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least one, or even at least two, oil(s), preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oil(s) of plant origin , and preferably chosen from meadowfoam seed oil Limnanthes Alba (INCI name: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, triglycerides of caprylic and capric acids, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oil that may be present in the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention is not a silicone oil or a fluorinated oil. Preferably, a dispersion according to the invention, in particular the dispersed fatty phase, does not comprise polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS or dimethicone) or one of its derivatives, and preferably does not comprise silicone oil, and in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (or Cyclotetrasiloxane or D4), decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (or Cyclopentasiloxane or D5) and cyclohexasiloxane (or D6).

Preferably, a dispersion according to the invention comprises, as oil(s), Caprylic/Capric triglyceride, hexyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

The person skilled in the art will take care to choose the oil/oils and/or their quantity so as to satisfy the melting points and the physicochemical properties x and y, even z, of the fatty phase mentioned above. These adjustments fall within the competence of a person skilled in the art with regard to the teaching of this description.

A dispersion according to the invention may comprise between 10% and 99.5%, preferably between 20% and 90%, better still between 30% and 85%, and in particular between 50% and 80%, by weight of oil ( s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

A dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 1% to 50%, preferably from 5% to 40%, and better still from 10% to 25%, by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of said dispersion.

A dispersion according to the invention is also advantageous in that its kinetic stability allows high percentages of dispersed fatty phase. Thus, a dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 1% to 60%, in particular from 5% to 50%, preferably from 10% to 40%, and better still from 15% to 30%, by weight of dispersed fatty phase relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

Additional compound(s) A dispersion according to the invention, in particular the aqueous continuous phase and/or the dispersed fatty phase, may/may also comprise at least one additional compound other than the lipophilic gelling agent, the pigments and the oils mentioned above.

Soft-focus filler / soft-focus fillers

The continuous aqueous phase and/or the dispersed fatty phase, in particular the dispersed fatty phase, of a dispersion according to the invention can also comprise at least one filler with a soft-focus effect.

A filler with a soft-focus effect is capable of modifying and/or masking wrinkles by its intrinsic physical properties. These fillers can in particular modify the wrinkles by a tightening effect, a camouflage effect, or a blurring effect.

As a filler with a soft-focus effect, the following compounds can be given by way of examples:

- porous silica microparticles such as Silica Beads® SB 150 and SB 700 from Miyoshi with an average size of 5 μm and the SUNSPHERES® H series from Asahi Glass such as H33, H51 in size 3.5 and 5 respectively pm and Sensibead Si 175 and Sensibead Si 320 from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies in sizes 7 μm and 5 μm, respectively;

- hollow hemispherical particles of silicone resins such as NLK 500®, NLK 506® and NLK 510® from Takemoto Oil and Fat, described in particular in EP 1 579 849;

- silicone resin powders such as, for example, SILICON Resin Tospearl® 145 A DE GE silicone with an average size of 4.5 μm;

- powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular of methyl poly(meth)acrylate, such as for example the PMMA Jurimer MBI® particles from Nihon Junyoki with an average size of 8 μm, the hollow PMMA spheres sold under the name COVABEAD® LH 85 by the Sensient Cosmetic Technologies and vinylidene/acrylonitrile/expanded methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel®;

- wax powders such as Paraffin wax microloase® 114S particles from Micropowders with an average size of 7 μm;

- polyethylene powders in particular comprising at least one ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer such as for example FLOBEADS® EA 209 E from Sumimoto with an average size of 10 μm; - Crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane under the name KSP 100®, KSP 101®, KSP 102®, KSP 103®, KSP 104® and KSP 105® by the company Shin Etsu;

- talc/dioxide or titanium/alumina/silica composite powders such as for example Coverleaf AR 80® from Catalyst &Chemical;

- talc, mica, kaolin, lauryl glycine, starch powders cross-linked with octeanyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate of magnesium, barium sulphate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and glass or ceramic microcapsules;

- synthetic or natural, mineral or organic hydrophilic or hydrophobic fibers such as silk, cotton, wool, linen, cellulose fibers extracted in particular from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon®), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide, acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, absorbable synthetic fibers, and their mixtures described in patent application EP 1 151 742;

- spherical elastomeric crosslinked silicones such as Trefil E-505C® or E-506 C® from Dow Corning;

- abrasive fillers which by mechanical effect bring a smoothing of the cutaneous microrelief, such as abrasive silica such as for example Abrasif SP® from Semanez or powdered nuts or shells (apricot, walnut, for example from Cosmétochem); And

- their mixtures

The fillers having an effect on the signs of aging are chosen in particular from porous microparticles of silica, hollow hemispherical particles of silicones, powders of silicone resin, powders of acrylic copolymers, powders of polyethylenes, powders of organopolysiloxanes cross-linked elastomers coated with silicone resin, talc/titanium dioxide/alumina/silica composite powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate carbonate, barium sulphate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate , cerium dioxide and glass or ceramic microcapsules, silk fibers, cotton, and mixtures thereof.

Also, as an additional compound, a dispersion according to the invention, in particular the aqueous continuous phase and/or the dispersed fatty phase, can thus further include powders; charges ; Glitter ; coloring agents, chosen in particular from water-soluble or non-water-soluble, fat-soluble or not, organic or inorganic coloring agents, materials with an optical effect, liquid crystals, and mixtures thereof; particulate agents insoluble in the fatty phase; curators; humectants; perfuming agents, in particular as defined in WO2019002308; stabilizers; chelators; emollients; modifying agents chosen from gelling/texture agents, of viscosity different from the base and the lipophilic gelling agents mentioned above, of pH, of osmotic strength and/or of refractive index modifiers etc... or any usual cosmetic additive ; and their mixtures.

By "filler" is meant in the sense of the invention colorless or white particles, solids of any shape, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the middle of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to confer body or rigidity and/or softness, and uniformity to the deposit, in particular in a make-up context, and improved stability with regard to exudation and the properties non-migration after application and/or dullness and/or coverage.

By “particulate agents insoluble in the fatty phase”, is meant within the meaning of the invention the group consisting of pigments, ceramics, polymers, in particular acrylic polymers, and mixtures thereof.

As an additional compound, a dispersion according to the invention, in particular the aqueous continuous phase and/or the dispersed fatty phase, may/may also comprise at least one biological/cosmetic active ingredient, chosen in particular from moisturizing agents, healing agents, depigmenting agents, UV filters, desquamating agents, antioxidant agents, active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and/or epidermal macromoleculars, dermo-contracting agents, antiperspirant agents, soothing agents and/or anti-aging agents. -age, and mixtures thereof. Such active agents are in particular described in FR1558849.

Hydrophilic gelling agent(s)

Advantageously, the aqueous phase can also comprise at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, that is to say soluble or dispersible in water. In the context of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic gelling agent" may be designated interchangeably by the term "hydrophilic texture agent". The hydrophilic gelling agents make it possible to modulate the fluidity of the dispersion, and therefore the sensorial and/or galenic quality, which it is desired to obtain and/or contribute to further improving the kinetic stability of the dispersion.

As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of: - natural gelling agents, in particular chosen from algae extracts, plant exudates, seed extracts, exudates of microorganisms, such as alcasealan marketed by the company Hakuto (INCI: Alcaligenes Polysaccharides), and other agents natural, in particular hyaluronic acid,

- semi-synthetic gelling agents, chosen in particular from cellulose derivatives and modified starches,

- synthetic gelling agents, chosen in particular from homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid or one of their esters, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid or one of their esters, copolymers of AMPS (2-acrylamido-2 -methylpropane sulfonic acid), associative polymers,

- other gelling agents, chosen in particular from polyethylene glycols (marketed under the name Carbowax), clays, silicas such as those marketed under the names Aérosil® 90/130/150/200/300/380), glycerine, and

- their mixtures.

According to one embodiment, the aqueous continuous phase comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably chosen from Carbomer, alcasealan (INCI: Alcaligenes Polysaccharides), and their mixture.

By “associative polymer” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion; the associative polymers in accordance with the present invention can be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric; these include those described in FR2999921. Preferably, they are amphiphilic and anionic associative polymers and amphiphilic and nonionic associative polymers as described below.

These hydrophilic gelling agents are described in more detail in FR3041251.

According to one embodiment, the dispersion according to the invention comprises from 0.0001% to 20%, preferably from 0.001% to 15%, in particular from 0.01% to 10%, and better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight of hydrophilic gelling agent(s) relative to the total weight of the continuous aqueous phase. These percentages refer to the hydrophilic gelling agent(s) only present in the continuous aqueous phase.

According to one embodiment, the dispersion according to the invention comprises from 0.0001% to 20%, preferably from 0.001% to 15%, and preferably from 0.01% to 10%, by weight of additional compound(s) (s) relative to the total weight of said dispersion.

According to one embodiment, the dispersion according to the invention comprises a single-phase core or comprises an intermediate drop of an intermediate phase and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an internal phase placed in the intermediate drop, the intermediate phase and the internal phase being mutually immiscible at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, the pigment(s) being present( s) in the intermediate phase and/or the internal phase.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additional compound(s) and/or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the dispersion according to the invention, in particular its kinetic stability and, with regard to to the dispersed fatty phase, its melting point and its physicochemical properties x and y, even z, mentioned above, are not or substantially not altered by the envisaged addition. In particular, the nature and / or the amount of additional compound (s) depends (are) on the aqueous or fatty nature of the phase considered of the dispersion according to the invention and / or must take into account the process used. work (in particular of the “non-microfluidic” or “microfluidic” type) for the manufacture of the dispersion according to the invention. These choices and adjustments fall within the competence of a person skilled in the art.

Preparation process

A dispersion according to the invention can be prepared by various methods.

Thus, a dispersion according to the invention has the advantage of being able to be prepared according to a simple "non-microfluidic" process, namely by simple emulsification, in particular using a Rayneri-type stirring device or paddle stirrer.

As in a classic emulsion, an aqueous solution and a fatty solution are prepared separately. It is the addition under agitation of the fatty phase in the aqueous phase which creates the direct emulsion.

The viscosity of the aqueous phase can be controlled, in particular, by varying the amount of hydrophilic gelling agent and/or the pH of the solution. In general, the pH of the aqueous phase is less than 4.5, which may involve adding a third sodium hydroxide solution (BF) at the end to reach a pH between 5.5 and 6, 5.

The viscosity of the aqueous phase and the shear force applied to the mixture are the two main parameters that influence the size and the monodispersity of the drops of the emulsion.

A person skilled in the art will know how to adjust the parameters of the non-microfluidic process to achieve the dispersion according to the invention, and in particular satisfy the desired drop diameter criterion.

The dispersions according to the invention can also be prepared according to a microfluidic process, in particular as described in applications WO2012/120043 or WO2019/145424. According to this embodiment, the microfluidic nozzle(s) implemented can have a configuration according to the T geometry, in co-flow (or co-currents), or flow-focusing.

According to this embodiment, the drops obtained by this microfluidic method advantageously have a uniform size distribution.

Preferably, the dispersions of the invention consist of a population of monodisperse drops, in particular such that they have an average diameter D comprised from 100 μm to 3000 μm, in particular from 500 μm to 3000 μm and a coefficient variation Cv less than 10%, or even less than 3%.

In the context of the present description, the term "monodispersed drops" means the fact that the population of drops of the dispersion according to the invention has a uniform size distribution. Monodisperse drops exhibit good monodispersity. Conversely, drops with poor monodispersity are said to be "polydispersed".

According to one mode, the average diameter D of the drops is for example measured by analysis of a photograph of a batch consisting of N drops, by image processing software (Image J). Typically, according to this method, the diameter is measured in pixels, then reported in pm, according to the size of the container containing the drops of the dispersion.

Preferably, the value of N is chosen to be greater than or equal to 30, so that this analysis reflects in a statistically significant manner the distribution of diameters of the drops of said emulsion. N is advantageously greater than or equal to 100, in particular in the case where the dispersion is polydisperse.

We measure the diameter Di of each drop, then we obtain the average diameter D by calculating the arithmetic mean of these values:

From these values Di, one can also obtain the standard deviation c of the diameters of the drops of the dispersion:

et que l’on trouve 68,2% de la population dans l’intervalle

The standard deviation c of a dispersion reflects the distribution of the diameters Di of the drops of the dispersion around the average diameter D . By knowing the average diameter D and the standard deviation c of a dispersion, it can be determined that 95.4% of the droplet population is found in the diameter interval

and that we find 68.2% of the population in the interval

To characterize the monodispersity of the dispersion according to this embodiment of the invention, the coefficient of variation can be calculated:

This parameter reflects the distribution of the diameters of the drops as a function of the average diameter of the latter.

The coefficient of variation Cv of the diameters of the drops according to this mode of the invention is less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, or even less than 3%.

Alternatively, the monodispersity can be demonstrated by placing a dispersion sample in a bottle with a constant circular section. Gentle agitation by rotation of a quarter turn over half a second around the axis of symmetry crossing the bottle, followed by a rest of half a second is carried out, before repeating the operation in the opposite direction, and this four times in a row.

The drops of the dispersed phase organize themselves in a crystalline form when they are monodispersed. Thus, they have a stack according to a following repeating pattern in three dimensions. It is then possible to observe, a regular stacking which indicates a good monodispersity, an irregular stacking translating the polydispersity of the dispersion.

To obtain monodisperse drops, the microfluidic technique can also be implemented (Utada et al. MRS Bulletin 32, 702-708 (2007); Cramer et al. Chem. Eng. Sci. 59, 15, 3045-3058 (2004)), and more particularly microfluidic devices of the co-flow type (the fluids go in the same direction) or flow-focusing (the fluids go in different directions, and typically in opposite directions).

The presence, in the dispersed fatty phase, of lipophilic gelling agent(s), or even in the aqueous continuous phase, of hydrophilic gelling agent(s), may require adjustments at the level of the process for preparing a dispersion according to the invention. In particular, the method for preparing such a dispersion according to the invention comprises a step of heating (between 50° C. and 150° C., in particular between 60° C. and 90° C.) at least the fatty phase before mixing/ bringing said fatty phase into contact with the aqueous phase and, where appropriate, maintaining this heating (i) during stirring in the case of a “non-microfluidic” process or (ii) at the level of the microfluidic device in the case of a “microfluidic” process, until the desired dispersion is obtained.

The process for preparing a dispersion of the invention comprises at least the following steps: a) heating an oily fluid F1 to a temperature between 50° C. and 150° C., preferably from 60° C. to 120 °C, and better still from 70°C to 100°C; b) optionally heating an aqueous fluid FE to a temperature between 50°C and 150°C, preferably from 60°C to 120°C, and better still from 70°C to 100°C; c) bringing the aqueous fluid FE and the oily fluid F1 into contact; and d) the formation of drops of fatty phase, consisting of oily fluid Fl, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, consisting of aqueous fluid FE, in which:

- the oily fluid F1 comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent, at least one pigment, and optionally at least one oil and has a melting point of between 50°C and 100°C, preferably between 60°C and 90°C , and, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, meets the following physicochemical criteria:

- a hardness (x) of between 2 and 14 N, preferably between 2.5 and 12 N, better still between 3 and 9 N, and very particularly between 4 and 6 N; And

- a tackiness (y) greater than or equal to -2 N, better still greater than or equal to -1 N, and in particular greater than or equal to -0.6 N; the oily fluid F1 further being devoid of amodimethicone and, optionally, further comprising at least one additional compound as mentioned above; And

- the aqueous fluid FE comprises at least water and, optionally, at least one additional compound as mentioned above, and preferably at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

Steps (c) and (d) are carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point of the gelling agent(s) used. In other words, steps (c) and (d) are carried out with an oily fluid Fl in a form capable of emulsifying with the aqueous fluid FE, and therefore capable of ensuring the formation of drops, and in particular with a Fl oily fluid in a liquid form.

According to one embodiment, the fluid F1 is initially prepared by mixing a fatty phase intended to form the core of the drops, comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent and optionally at least one oil and in addition, optionally, at least one compound additional as mentioned above.

According to one embodiment, the FE fluid is initially prepared by mixing an aqueous phase intended to form the continuous phase of the dispersion with, so as optionally, at least one base, at least one additional compound, preservatives and/or other water-soluble products such as glycerin, and most particularly at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

According to one embodiment, the aqueous continuous phase of the dispersion formed comprises, or even is represented by, the aqueous fluid FE.

According to one embodiment, the method for manufacturing a dispersion according to the invention can also comprise a step e) of injecting a solution for increasing the viscosity of the continuous aqueous phase of the fluid FE, for example as described in WO20 15/055748. Preferably, the viscosity increasing solution is aqueous. This viscosity-increasing solution is typically injected into the aqueous fluid FE after formation of the dispersion according to the invention, and therefore after formation of the drops.

According to one embodiment, the viscosity-increasing solution comprises a base, in particular an alkali hydroxide, such as sodium hydroxide.

In the case of a "non-microfluidic" process as mentioned above, step c) is represented by stirring during which the heating can be maintained during this stirring allowing the desired dispersion to be obtained.

In the case of a “microfluidic” process as mentioned above, the microfluidic device as such can be adapted to be maintained at a temperature between 50° C. and 150° C., preferably from 80° C. to 90° C. vs.

In the case of a “microfluidic” process, step d) of formation of drops can comprise the formation of drops of oily fluid F1 at the outlet of a first conduit opening into the aqueous fluid FE. Preferably, the aqueous fluid FE is circulated in a second conduit, the outlet of the first conduit opening into the second conduit, advantageously coaxially with the local axis of the second conduit.

Advantageously, a method of the invention may comprise, after step d) but before step e), a cooling step f) to accelerate the cooling kinetics of the dispersion formed, and thus prevent the risks of coalescence and fragmentation of post-formation drops (between 10 and 30°C).

The present invention also relates to a dispersion capable of being obtained by a process such as those described above.

Uses

Preferably, a dispersion according to the invention can be used directly, at the end of the aforementioned preparation processes, as a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition. The dispersion according to the invention, when prepared by means of a microfluidic process as described above, can also be used as a composition, in particular cosmetic, after separation of the drops and redispersion thereof in a second appropriate phase.

The invention also relates to the use of a dispersion according to the invention for the preparation of a composition, in particular cosmetic, pharmaceutical, in nutrition or in the food industry, preferably of a cosmetic composition and in particular of a composition of caring for and/or making up a keratin material, in particular the skin.

The present invention thus also relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, in particular the skin and/or the hair, and more particularly the skin, comprising at least one dispersion according to invention, optionally in combination with at least one physiologically acceptable medium.

The dispersions or compositions according to the invention can therefore in particular be used in the cosmetics field.

They may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients or compounds, at least one physiologically acceptable medium.

The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition must be applied, as well as to the appearance in which the composition must be packaged.

According to one embodiment, the physiologically acceptable medium is represented directly by the aqueous continuous phase as described above.

In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, the term “physiologically acceptable medium” means a medium suitable for cosmetic applications, and suitable in particular for the application of a composition of the invention to a keratin material, in particular the skin and/or the hair, and more particularly the skin.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention can be, for example, a cream, a lotion, a serum and a gel for the skin (hands, face, feet, etc.), a foundation (liquid, paste), a preparation for baths and showers (salts, mousses, oils, gels, etc.), a hair care product (hair dyes and bleaches), a cleaning product (lotions, powders, shampoos), a maintenance product for the hair (lotions, creams , oils), a styling product (lotions, lacquers, brilliantines), a shaving product (soaps, foams, lotions, etc.), a product intended to be applied to the lips, a sunscreen product, a tanning product without sun, a product allowing to whiten the skin, an anti-wrinkle product. In particular, the cosmetic compositions of the invention can be an anti-aging serum, a youth serum, a moisturizing serum or a perfumed water. According to one embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention is not a composition for coating keratin fibres, and in particular is not a mascara.

Thus, in view of the foregoing, a dispersion or composition according to the invention is oral or topical, preferably topical, and better still topical on a keratin material, in particular the skin, and better still the skin of the face.

The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in particular the skin and/or the hair, and more particularly the skin, comprising a step of applying to the said keratin material at least one dispersion or of at least one aforementioned cosmetic composition.

The present invention also relates to the use of a dispersion or of a composition according to the invention, for improving the surface appearance of the skin, in particular for moisturizing the skin and/or reducing wrinkles and fine lines.

The present invention also relates to the use of a dispersion as defined above, to improve the properties of a cosmetic composition, in particular of makeup and better still of foundation, in terms of:

- tint intensity;

- progressive make-up result;

- freshness and/or hydration;

- kinetic stability;

- durability of the make-up effect, in particular the coverage; And

- coverage of color imperfections and/or relief imperfections without marking them, combined with a feeling of lightness, freshness and hydration on application without feeling greasy and/or sticky or even slowing down application .

Throughout the description, the expression "comprising a" must be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless the contrary is specified. The expressions "included between ... and ...", "included from ... to ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." must be understood as limits included, unless otherwise specified. The amounts of the ingredients appearing in the examples are expressed in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Physicochemical study of fatty phases comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent and pigments This example consisted in preparing thirteen anhydrous gels likely to feature the dispersed fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention, and in evaluating their physicochemical properties in terms of hardness (or firmness) (x), stickiness (or adhesion ) (y) and cohesion (z). These anhydrous gels essentially differ in the nature of the oily solvent and/or the lipophilic gelling agent (ie Rheopearl D2 (equivalent to Rheopearl KL2), Estogel M or OILKEMIA™ 5S polymer) and their concentrations (ie 5%, 10 % and 15%). In the case of Rheopearl D2, test 1 D differs from test 1C by the nature of the solvent. Table 1 below shows the composition of these various anhydrous gels.

Table 1

QSP: sufficient quantity for ** UEMC30 is a premix of Estogel M (INCI: Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) in Caprylic oil/Capric Triglyceride in a 30/70 ratio; the corresponding concentrations of lipophilic gelling agent (ie Estogel M) are therefore respectively 5%/10%/15% relative to the total weight of the anhydrous gel.

The protocol for preparing these anhydrous gels is as follows.

- Mixture A: the pigments are dispersed in part of the Labrafac CC using a three-cylinder mill. The mixture is heated to 50°C.

- Mixture B: the remainder of the solvent (Labrafac CC or DUB Inin) is stirred and heated to 80° C./90° C. depending on the gelling agent to be dispersed; the lipophilic gelling agent (ie Estogel M, Rheopearl D2 or OILKEMIA™ 5S polymer) is added thereto with magnetic stirring at 80°C/90°C until a homogeneous solution is obtained, guaranteeing good dispersion of the polymer.

- Mixture C: under hot stirring (80°C/90°C), add Meadowfoam oil or Lipex 205 or Coconut oil to mixture B.

- Final mixture: under hot stirring (80°C/90°C), mixture A is added to mixture C.

The melting points of the anhydrous gels are measured according to the method described previously and are presented in table 2 below.

Table 2

The physicochemical criteria x, y and z of the anhydrous gels are then measured using the texturometer protocol described previously. Note the impossibility of measuring the hardness of the fatty phases of example 18 of application US 2004/137020 and of example 31 of application EP 2 189 081. Indeed, these fatty phases are too hard for the texturometer EZ-X from shimadzu whose maximum force in terms of hardness is 50 N.

The corresponding measurements are presented in figures 1 to 7. Figure 1 is a graph representing the hardness criterion (x) of the anhydrous gels of table 1.

Figure 2 is a graph representing the stickiness criterion (γ) of the anhydrous gels of table 1. Figure 3 is an enlargement of Figure 2 of the stickiness (y) values of anhydrous gels 2A, 2B, 2C, 3A, 3B, 3C, 5 and 6.

Figure 4 is a graph representing the cohesion criterion (z) of the anhydrous gels 1B, 1D, 2B, 3B, 5 and 6 of table 1.

Finally, Figures 5 to 7 are graphs representing the texturometry curves of the anhydrous gels in table 1. These Figures 5 to 7 provide the strength (in N) of the gels in table 1 as a function of the time (in seconds) during which the gels are subjected (1) to a first compression stage (0 to 5 s) then (2) to a second relaxation stage where the mobile rises (5 to 10 s). Steps (1) and (2) above are repeated. These Figures 5 to 7 therefore provide information on the physicochemical properties of the gels in Table 1, in particular in terms of hardness, stickiness and cohesion.

Results :

Hardness (x): as shown in Figure 1, with the same percentage of lipophilic gelling agent and oily solvent (for example 1 B vs 2B vs 3B), the differences in terms of hardness profiles of the different anhydrous gels tested are not significant . In addition, tests 1 C and 1 D, it is observed that the hardness is impacted by the nature of the solvent.

Sticky (y): as shown in Figures 2 and 3, with identical lipophilic gelling agent and oily solvent percentage:

- gels 2 (A, B, C), 3 (A, B, C), 5 and 6 have similar stickiness profiles, and

- gels 1 (B, C) and 4 exhibit stickiness properties that are markedly superior to those of gels 2 (A, B, C) and 3 (A, B, C).

Furthermore, tests 1 C and 1 D, it is observed that the nature of the solvent has an impact on the stickiness.

Cohesion (z): as shown in Figure 4, gels 2B, 3B, 5 and 6 exhibit similar physicochemical properties in terms of cohesion, significantly lower than those of gels 1B and 1D.

Example 2: Preparation of Pigmented Macroscopic Dispersions

In this example 2, ten dispersions are prepared comprising a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed phase in the form of drops represented each time by one of the anhydrous gels of example 1. These dispersions are obtained by means of a process of microfluidic manufacturing as described in WO2019145424, namely where the formation of the drops is carried out by means of a nozzle capable of conveying a fluid jet formed of a second fluid concentrically surrounding a first fluid and a device for mechanical fragmentation of said jet fluid disposed in the vicinity of the outlet of the nozzle. According to this embodiment, the drops obtained by a microfluidic method have a uniform size distribution with a high production yield.

The compositions of the phases (fluids) allowing the preparation of the dispersions are described in Table 3 below.

* QSP : quantité suffisante pour Protocole de préparation : Table 3

* QSP: sufficient quantity for Preparation protocol:

For the OF:

- Mixture A: with stirring under a deflocculating blade, the Phenoxyethanol, the Pentylene glycol and the EDTA are incorporated into the water and the mixture obtained is stirred for 5 min.

- Mixture B: the Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymer carbomer is then sprinkled on mixture A until hydration, then stirred for 30 minutes using a deflocculating blade.

- Mixture C: the Carbopol ETD 2050 polymer carbomer is then dispersed in mixture B with stirring for 30 minutes using a deflocculating blade.

- Mixture D: with stirring under a deflocculating blade, the humectants (ie glycerin, zemea propanediol and butylene glycol 1.3) are added to mixture C. The mixture D obtained is kept under stirring for 10 min.

- Mixture E: the blanose, previously predispersed at 1% in water with magnetic stirring at 80°C, after returning to room temperature, is added to mixture D with stirring under a deflocculating blade.

- Mixture F: soda is added to mixture E which is stirred for 10 minutes to obtain the OF solution.

The OF solution is then connected to a pOF pump connected to a heater to keep the OF hot (80°C).

For FIs: see protocol described in example 1.

Each of the ten heated IF solutions is then connected to a pIF pump connected to a heater to keep the IF hot (80°C). To reduce heat losses, the microfluidic device was installed directly at the outlet of the pIF and pOF pumps and is itself maintained at 80°C.

For the BF: the soda and the water are mixed using a magnetic bar for 5 min. The BF solution is then introduced into an sBF syringe.

Using the pIF and pOF pumps and the sBF syringe and an associated syringe pump, the IF and the OF are injected into the microfluidic device and the BF is injected into the dispersion at the outlet of the microfluidic device, according to the flow rates described in Table 4 below. Table 4

Depending on the configuration of the microfluidic device and the flow rates, the dispersions obtained may comprise drops endowed with a satisfactory monodispersity and having an average diameter comprised between 100 μm and 1500 μm, in particular between 700 and 1300 μm.

Results on manufacture of dispersions:

It was possible to manufacture dispersions from the ten anhydrous gels according to example 1.

Stability test

Each of the ten dispersions is then packaged in three half-filled 30 ml polypropylene (PP) receptacles. After 1 day at room temperature, each test undergoes one of the three transport tests below (one receptacle per test), namely:

- roller test (i.e. horizontal circular movement): Wheaton reference, for 1 hour;

- vibrating table (i.e. vertical circular movement): reference Heidolph llnimax 1010, for 1 hour; And

- 3D mixer (i.e. random movements): for 6 minutes.

At the end of these stability tests, one evaluates (i) the integrity of the drops, in particular their fragmentation and (ii) the turbidity of the gel, generally linked to a transfer of fatty phase into the continuous aqueous phase.

Rating criteria :

Table 5

Results :

Table 6

D1A = dispersion according to example 2 using as dispersed fatty phase the anhydrous gel 1A of example 1.

Dispersions D1A and D2A show unsatisfactory stability results. The corresponding fatty phases are therefore excluded from the rest of the study. The D3A dispersion presents average stability results but deemed sufficiently satisfactory to be kept for the rest of the study. The other dispersions tested show satisfactory stability results. These results demonstrate that a fatty phase must have properties in terms of hardness greater than 2 N, preferably greater than or equal to 2.5 N, in particular greater than or equal to 3 N, and better still greater than or equal to 4 N.

Sensory tests

Then, from the eight dispersions above endowed with satisfactory stability, visual, sensory and coverage tests were carried out on a cohort of 24 women between 22 and 45 years old. Each woman blindly tested the eight satisfactory dispersions in terms of kinetic stability. The criteria evaluated are (i) the adhesion of the drops of dispersed fatty phase to the wall of the packaging, (ii) the aggregation of the drops of dispersed phase between them, (iii) the ease (or comfort) of application, and in particular the ease of crushing and spreading the drops of dispersed phase and (iv) coverage. Rating criteria :

Table 7

Results :

5 Table 8

* D1A = dispersion according to example 2 using as fatty phase disperses the anhydrous gel 1A according to example 1.

**NR: Not filled in. Conclusion

In view of the results above, we observe that a fatty phase:

- given the above results in terms of "ease of application" and Figure 1, must have a hardness (x) less than or equal to 14 N, better still less than or equal to 12 N, and preferably less than or equal at 9 N,

- in view of the results above in terms of “adhesion” and of figures 2 and 3, that the fatty phase must have a tackiness (y) greater than or equal to -2 N, and better still greater than or equal to -1 N , or even greater than or equal to -0.6 N, and

- in view of the results above in terms of "aggregation" and of Figure 4, that the fatty phase must have a cohesion (z) less than or equal to 40, preferably less than or equal to 35, and better still less than or equal to 30.

In conclusion, a dispersion according to the invention comprising a dispersed phase comprising pigmented drops and a continuous aqueous phase, when the stability of this dispersion is not ensured by the presence of a shell at the “continuous aqueous phase/ dispersed fatty phase" or surfactant, may despite everything and unexpectedly present satisfactory properties in terms of kinetic stability, sensoriality (in particular in terms of comfort, ease of application, freshness and hydration), and coverage, provided that the gelled fatty phase has:

(i) a melting point between 50°C and 100°C, preferably between 60°C and 90°C, and,

(ii) at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure:

- of a hardness (x) of between 2 and 14 N, in particular between 2.5 and 12 N, preferably between 3 and 9 N, and better still between 4 and 6 N;

- a tackiness (y) greater than or equal to -2 N, and better still greater than or equal to -1 N, and in particular greater than or equal to -0.6 N; And

- optionally, with a cohesion (z) less than or equal to 40, preferably less than or equal to 35, and better still less than or equal to 30.

Even more unexpectedly, these results are observed and applicable with a dispersion provided with drops of dispersed fatty phase of macroscopic size.

These observations are all the more unexpected in that they are obtained even in the presence of (i) high levels of pigments relative to the weight of the dispersed fatty phase and (ii) a high level of dispersed pigmented fatty phase.

These observations are even more unexpected in that they are associated, on application, with a progressive (or progressive) makeup result; a faint tint of the skin is observed at first, which gradually intensifies. The final color appears at about 45 seconds after application to the skin. The durability of this shade over time is also particularly satisfactory.

In addition, an improved hue is observed. Indeed, the makeup result of a dispersion according to the invention on the skin is unexpectedly endowed with a particularly intense hue with regard to the percentage of pigments in said dispersion. This observation can result in an excellent revelation of the pigments present in 1.1 F in the form of macroscopic drops.

In addition to a particularly satisfactory make-up result, the dispersion provides satisfactory sensory properties when applied to the skin, particularly in terms of freshness and hydration.

Claims

55 CLAIMS 1. Dispersion comprising a fatty phase, in the form of drops, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, the dispersed phase and the continuous phase being immiscible with each other at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in which the phase fat comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent and at least one pigment, in which: - the fatty phase has a melting point of between 50°C and 100°C, preferably between 60°C and 90°C, and, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, meets the following physicochemical criteria: - a hardness (x) of between 2 and 14 N, preferably between 2.5 and 12 N, better still between 3 and 9 N, and very particularly between 4 and 6 N; And - a tackiness (y) greater than or equal to -2 N, better still greater than or equal to -1 N, and in particular greater than or equal to -0.6 N; And - the dispersion does not include amodimethicone. 2. Dispersion according to claim 1, characterized in that the fatty phase has a cohesion (z) less than or equal to 40, preferably less than or equal to 35, and better still less than or equal to 30. 3. Dispersion according to claim 1 or claim 2, in which the fatty phase comprises between 1% and 60%, preferably between 5% and 50%, in particular between 10% and 40%, better still between 15% and 35% , and preferably between 20% and 25%, by weight of pigment(s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase. 4. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dispersion does not comprise bark, in particular bark formed of a layer of coacervate interposed between the dispersed fatty phase and the aqueous continuous phase. 5. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the drops having a diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm represent a volume greater than or equal to 60%, or even greater than or equal to 70%, preferably greater than or equal to 80 %, and better still greater than or equal to 90% of the total volume of the dispersed phase 56 and/or at least 60%, or even at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, and better still at least 90%, of the drops have an average diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm. 6. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents; fatty substances that are solid at ambient temperature and pressure; and their mixtures. 7. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.5% to 30%, preferably from 1% to 25%, in particular from 1.5% to 20%, better still from 2% to 15%, and most particularly from 5% to 12%, by weight of lipophilic gelling agent(s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase. 8. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous continuous phase comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably chosen from the group consisting of natural gelling agents; semi-synthetic gelling agents; synthetic gelling agents; and their mixtures, and is preferably chosen from Carbomer, alcasealan (INCI: Alcaligenes Polysaccharides), and their mixture. 9. Dispersion according to the preceding claim, comprising from 0.0001% to 20%, preferably from 0.001% to 15%, in particular from 0.01% to 10%, and better still from 0.1% to 5%, in weight of hydrophilic gelling agent(s) relative to the total weight of the continuous aqueous phase. 10. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 1% to 60%, in particular from 5% to 50%, preferably from 10% to 40%, and better still from 15% to 30%, by weight of fatty phase dispersed relative to the total weight of the dispersion. 11. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a single-phase core or comprising an intermediate drop of an intermediate phase and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an internal phase placed in the intermediate drop, the intermediate phase and the internal phase being mutually immiscible at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, the pigment(s) being present in the intermediate phase and/or the internal phase. 57 12. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dispersion does not comprise a surfactant. 13. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dispersion does not comprise: - dextrin ester and fatty acid(s), and in particular dextrin palmitate(s), and/or silica optionally treated with hydrophobicity, for example fumed silica, and/or - Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, and/or - Cetyl Ethylhexanoat. 14. Process for the preparation of a dispersion as defined according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least the following steps: a) heating an oily fluid F1 to a temperature of 50°C to 150°C VS ; b) optionally, the heating of an aqueous fluid FE, at a temperature between 50°C and 150°C; c) bringing the aqueous fluid FE and the oily fluid F1 into contact; and d) the formation of drops of fatty phase, consisting of oily fluid Fl, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, consisting of aqueous fluid FE, in which: - the oily fluid F1 comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent, at least one pigment, and optionally at least one oil and has a melting point of between 50°C and 100°C, preferably between 60°C and 90°C , and, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, meets the following physicochemical criteria: - a hardness (x) of between 2 and 14 N, preferably between 2.5 and 12 N, better still between 3 and 9 N, and very particularly between 4 and 6 N; And - a tackiness (y) greater than or equal to -2 N, better still greater than or equal to -1 N, and in particular greater than or equal to -0.6 N; the oily fluid F1 also being devoid of amodimethicone; And - the aqueous fluid FE comprises at least water and, optionally, at least one hydrophilic gelling agent. 15. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the step of forming drops comprises the formation of drops of oily fluid F1 at the outlet of a first conduit opening into the aqueous fluid FE. 58 16. Method according to claim 15, characterized in that the aqueous fluid FE is circulated in a second conduit, the outlet of the first conduit opening into the second conduit, advantageously coaxially with the local axis of the second conduit. 17. Dispersion obtained by a process according to any one of claims 14 to 16. 18. Composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising at least one dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 13, optionally in combination with at least one physiologically acceptable medium. 19. Composition according to claim 18, said composition being a make-up composition, in particular a foundation composition. 20. Non-therapeutic process for the cosmetic treatment, in particular of make-up and/or care, preferably make-up, of a keratin material, in particular of the skin, the lips or the hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin material of at least one dispersion according to any one of Claims 1 to 13 or of at least one composition according to Claim 18 or 19. 21. Use of a dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 13, to improve the properties of a cosmetic composition, in particular makeup and better still foundation, in terms of: - tint intensity; - progressive make-up result; - freshness and/or hydration; - kinetic stability; - durability of the make-up effect, in particular the coverage; And - coverage of color imperfections and/or relief imperfections without marking them, combined with a feeling of lightness, freshness and hydration on application without feeling greasy and/or sticky or even slowing down application .