FR3097763A1 - Use of an extract of Maritime Armeria (Armeria maritima) to hydrate the skin and improve the barrier function - Google Patents

Abstract

Use of an extract from Armérie maritime ( Armeria maritima ) to hydrate the skin and improve the barrier function The present invention relates to an alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Maritime Armeria (Armeria maritima), to a composition comprising it, and to its cosmetic uses. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Use of sea wormwood extract (Armeria maritima) to moisturize the skin and improve the barrier function

The present invention relates to the use of an alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic extract of Armeria maritime ( Armeria maritima ) to improve the barrier function and moisturize the skin.

The skin is a tissue whose cells are contiguous, and solidary with each other. The skin tissue forms an outer covering comprising sebaceous or sweat glands, and hair follicles. The skin, and in particular the scalp, are epithelia with continual renewal. Renewal, or desquamation, is a coordinated and finely regulated process resulting in the elimination of superficial cells, in a imperceptible and invisible way.

Human skin consists of two compartments, namely a superficial compartment, the epidermis, and a deep compartment, the dermis.

The epidermis is conventionally divided into a basal layer of keratinocytes constituting the germinative layer of the epidermis, a so-called spiny layer consisting of several layers of polyhedral cells arranged on the germinative layers, one to three so-called granular layers consisting of flattened cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, the grains of keratohyaline and finally, a set of upper layers called stratum corneum (or stratum corneum ), made up of keratinocytes at the terminal stage of their differentiation called corneocytes.

Corneocytes are anucleate cells mainly made up of a fibrous material containing cytokeratins, surrounded by a horny envelope. There is a permanent production of new keratinocytes to compensate for the continuous loss of epidermal cells at the level of the stratum corneum according to a mechanism called desquamation.

However, an imbalance between the production of cells at the level of the basal layer and the rate of desquamation can in particular lead to the formation of scales on the surface of the skin. Similarly, a lack of terminal differentiation of cells in the stratum corneum , for various reasons, can lead to the formation of large, thick clusters of cells, visible to the naked eye, and called "squames", or in d other situations, to a thinning of the stratum corneum . This can lead to a fragility of the barrier properties of the epidermis, to chronic dehydration of the stratum corneum, a loss of mechanical elasticity, tightness, as well as a lack of radiance and transparency of the skin.

By way of example of factors favoring this decrease in the surface quality of the skin, we can mention stress, the winter period, excess sebum or lack of hydration.

Thus, a fragility of the skin barrier can occur in the presence of external aggressions such as irritating agents (detergents, acids, bases, oxidants, reducers, concentrated solvents, gases or harmful fumes), thermal or climatic imbalances (cold, dryness, radiation ), xenobiotics (undesirable micro-organisms, allergens) or internal attacks such as psychological stress.

One of the critical steps in the stratum corneum terminal differentiation process is the cross-linking of protein precursors to the corneal envelope (EC). This phenomenon plays an essential role in the development and maintenance of skin cohesion, physical properties of the skin such as the barrier function, and is a crucial step in the process of terminal differentiation. The horny envelope is an essential component of corneocytes.

The hydrating active agents conventionally used, such as humectants, hydrating polymers or fatty substances such as petroleum jelly, temporarily modify the surface properties of the skin. These active ingredients can lead to a mechanical softening of the stratum corneum, an increase in its state of hydration and/or an improvement in the microrelief of the skin by the formation of a film on the surface of the skin. Generally, these effects are not persistent over time and only last a few hours. In addition, after cleaning the skin, these active ingredients are eliminated and the mechanical softening effect of the skin, the improvement in the texture of the skin or its optical properties disappear.

Finally, dry skin, which lacks radiance, is often treated with moisturizing active ingredients, which have an effect on the differentiation and maturation of the stratum corneum.

There is therefore a need for active agents enabling the skin, in particular dry skin, to maintain its role as a barrier function.

There is therefore a need for active agents which improve the surface condition of the skin, in particular dry skin, by avoiding tightness and feelings of discomfort for the user; moreover, there is a need for active agents which also improve the properties of texture and radiance of the complexion.

Maintaining or restoring a corneal envelope exhibiting correct maturation is essential for preserving a good quality barrier function ensuring protection against external attacks and lasting hydration of the skin, in particular of the epidermis.

The present invention makes it possible to meet these needs. Indeed, the inventors have now discovered that a specific alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of sea worm ( Armeria maritima ), makes it possible to hydrate the skin in a satisfactory manner, but also to preserve its barrier function properties.

As demonstrated in the examples, this extract is specific and has unique properties: unlike other extracts of the same plant, it improves the barrier function and hydrates the skin. Indeed, this extract induces the expression of markers involved in the establishment of the stratum corneum and the barrier function, such as the markers CNFN (cornifeline), LCE3D (“late cornified envelope 3D”) and SPRR1A (“small proline- rich protein 1A”). It is therefore of interest by improving the barrier function and hydration. Furthermore, and surprisingly, the biological efficacy observed for this extract is not driven by any of these main components.

The present invention thus relates to an alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of maritime Armeria ( Armeria maritima ).

The present invention also relates to the use of such an extract for reinforcing the barrier function and/or improving the hydration of the skin.

Typically, by reinforcing the barrier function, said extract also improves the quality of the skin and/or the radiance of the complexion.

In addition, the extract helps prevent and/or treat cosmetic signs associated with dry skin.

The cosmetic signs associated with dry skin are chosen in particular from the user's tightness and feelings of discomfort.

By "skin" is meant all of the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, neckline, neck, arms and forearms, or even even more preferably, the skin of the face (especially the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin), décolleté and neck.

By “prevent” or “prevention”, according to the invention is meant the fact of reducing the probability of occurrence or of reducing a risk of manifestation of the phenomenon concerned.

• fonction barrière efficace ;
• effet hydratant ;
• élasticité et texture lisse de la peau ;
• morphologie de surface avec une rugosité faible, une bonne cohésion des tissus et une amélioration de l’aspect visuel de la peau.

The present invention thus makes it possible to confer beneficial properties on the skin, in particular in a lasting manner, in particular:

• effective barrier function;
• moisturizing effect;
• elasticity and smooth texture of the skin;
• surface morphology with low roughness, good tissue cohesion and improved visual appearance of the skin.

An increase in skin dryness is often observed with age; however, such states of skin dryness can also occur in young people. Indeed, the state of cutaneous dryness is a physiological state which can be present in young subjects, without any pathological cause. This dryness can be constitutive, as is often the case in individuals with pale, thin and/or fragile skin.

In addition, many external factors can cause the skin to dry out or make already dry skin worse. Among these factors, mention may be made of difficult climatic conditions, sunlight, exposure to certain chemical or therapeutic agents.

On a physiological level, dry skin is often associated with a drop in the level of cutaneous hydration and an alteration of the barrier function, measured by insensible water loss. On the sensory level, it is characterized in particular by a feeling of tightness and/or cutaneous tension. For obvious reasons, these manifestations are sources of discomfort, even pain.

However, in certain situations, whether it is a food imbalance, repeated external, physical or chemical attacks (such as UV rays, pollution, wind, cold or air conditioning) or psychological factors (fatigue , stress), the human epidermis can present qualitative or quantitative modifications of its composition and/or its lipid synthesis.

The extract according to the invention thus proves to be particularly effective:

- to treat states of dry skin,

- to treat dry skin,

- to treat itching and/or tightness associated with dry skin,

- to physiologically restore a suitable state of hydration to the stratum corneum,

- to treat hypo-seborrheic dry skin,

- to improve the comfort of dry skin, or even

- to fight against the dull and/or sluggish appearance of the skin as a result of its drying out.

In particular, the extract according to the invention is useful as an agent for improving the hydration of the skin. According to one embodiment of the invention, the extract according to the invention aims to prevent and/or treat dry skin and/or reduce the signs associated with skin dryness, whether constitutive or acquired.

The invention also relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, an alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of maritime Armeria ( Armeria maritima ).

The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of at least one alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Armenia maritime ( Armeria maritima ) as described above, or of a composition as defined above. More particularly, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic treatment process as defined above for improving and/or reinforcing the barrier function of the skin, in particular for promoting the maintenance of skin having a good quality barrier function.

The invention relates first of all to an alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of maritime Armeria ( Armeria maritima ).

By “aerial parts”, we mean the flowers, the leaves and/or the stems. In particular, aerial parts do not include roots or rhizomes.

Plant extraction is a process aimed at extracting certain constituents present in plants. It is a solid/liquid separation operation: a solid body (the plant, in this case the aerial parts of maritime Armérie) is brought into contact with a fluid (the solvent, in this case comprising at least one alcohol ). The compounds of interest are then solubilized and contained in the solvent. The solution obtained corresponds to the desired extract.

The solvent can then be removed in order to isolate the plant extract: when it is completely removed, a dry extract is then obtained. Thus, by “dry extract” is meant an extract obtained after removal of the extraction solvent. Preferably, the dry extract comprises less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of extract, of extraction solvent (in this case, alcohol or a mixture of water and at least one alcohol). Preferably, the dry extract is free of extraction solvent.

Preferably, according to a first embodiment, the extract according to the invention is a dry extract.

When the solvent is not completely removed, it is called a fluid extract. Preferably, the fluid extract comprises a content greater than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of extract, of extraction solvent.

Preferably, according to a second embodiment, the extract according to the invention is a fluid extract.

By “alcoholic extract”, is meant an extract obtained with a solvent which is chosen from alcohols.

By "hydro-alcoholic extract", we mean an extract obtained with a solvent which is a mixture of water and at least one alcohol.

In particular, alcohol is a mono-alcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms. Preferably, the alcohol is ethanol.

Preferably, the alcoholic extract is an ethanolic extract. Preferably, the alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Arméria maritime ( Armeria maritima ) according to the invention is obtained from the aerial parts previously crushed, and extracted using at least one alcohol having from 2 to 6 atoms. carbon, preferably ethanol.

Preferably, the mixture of water and at least one alcohol of the hydro-alcoholic extract is a mixture comprising from 20% to 60% by volume of water relative to the total volume of the mixture, and from 40% to 80% by volume of alcohol relative to the total volume of the mixture. Preferably, the mixture of water and at least one alcohol is a mixture comprising from 30% to 55% by volume, preferably from 45% to 55% by volume, of water relative to the total volume of mixture, and from 45% to 60% by volume, preferably from 47% to 55% by volume, of alcohol relative to the total volume of the mixture.

Preferably, the mixture is a mixture of water and a single alcohol.

More preferably, the mixture of water and at least one alcohol is a mixture comprising 50% by volume of water relative to the total volume of the mixture, and 50% by volume of alcohol, preferably ethanol, relative to the total mix volume (50% mix).

Preferably, the hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Arméria maritime ( Armeria maritima ) according to the invention is obtained from the aerial parts previously crushed, and extracted using a hydro-alcoholic mixture (ie mixture water and at least one alcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol), preferably at 50%.

The genus Armeria belongs to the Plumbaginaceae family. The species Armeria maritima or Armérie maritime or marine carnation or sea rush or grass of Olympus, is quite common on the rocky coasts and on the salty muds.

Sea thrush is a halophyte, i.e. able to grow in an environment subject to salt stress .

Maritime Armeria is a perennial plant, with a fairly variable habit depending on its habitat. It grows in grassy clumps 20 to 50 cm high. It grows in the Iberian Peninsula, on the coasts of France, in central Europe up to Norway, and is quite rare on the Atlantic dunes. The somewhat fleshy, very elongated leaves, 1 to 3 mm wide, form large cushions at the base of the floral stem. They are glabrous or sparsely hairy and single-veined. The flowers are pink in color, globose in head, and tight (1.5 to 1.8 cm wide) at the end of a slender flowering stem with an ordinary bloom from May to June and sometimes until September.

According to the invention, the biomass used consists of dried aerial parts of maritime Armeria ( Armeria maritima ). This plant is a plant grown in the North Brittany region (Finistère, France) by the Setalg company. The aerial parts are preferably harvested in full bloom during the summer (in September).

The alcoholic extract of aerial parts of maritime Armeria ( Armeria maritima ) according to the invention is obtained by a process comprising the extraction of the aerial parts, preferably ground beforehand, in at least one alcohol, preferably a mono-alcohol having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol.

The hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of maritime Armeria ( Armeria maritima ) according to the invention is obtained by a process comprising the extraction of the aerial parts, preferably ground beforehand, in a mixture of water and at least an alcohol, preferably a mono-alcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol.

The alcoholic and hydro-alcoholic extracts according to the invention are preferably obtained as described in Example 1. In particular, they are obtained by the process comprising the following steps:

a: grinding into fine particles of the dried aerial parts of Maritime Armory in a grinder (1 – 2mm particle size);

b: extraction by maceration in a solvent chosen from alcohols and mixtures of water and at least one alcohol, at a temperature of 15° C. to 45° C., in particular from 15° C. to 40° C. and in particular at room temperature, in particular by introducing from 10g to 500g of plant powder obtained in a, per liter of solvent (i.e. respectively alcohol(s) or mixture of water and at least one alcohol), in particular from 50g to 200g and more particularly from 70g to 150g such as 100g of plant powder obtained in a, per liter of solvent, and maintaining at this temperature for 1 to 5 hours, in particular 1 to 3h, in particular 1h30 to 2h30 such as 2 hours. The solvent is indeed either at least one alcohol (alcoholic extract), or a mixture of water and at least one alcohol (hydro-alcoholic extract). Preferably, the mixture of water and at least one alcohol comprises from 20% to 60% by volume, preferably from 30% to 55% by volume, preferably from 45% to 55% by volume, preferably 50 % by volume, of water relative to the total volume of the mixture, and from 40% to 80% by volume, preferably from 45% to 60% by volume, preferably from 47% to 55% by volume, preferably 50 % by volume, of alcohol, preferably of ethanol, relative to the total volume of the mixture; Then

c: filtration of the mixture obtained in b, in particular on a Whatman GF/C filter with a porosity of 1.2 μm;

d: partial or total evaporation of the alcohol in the filtered mixture obtained in c, typically using a rotary evaporator at 35°C; And

e: possibly lyophilization of the aqueous residue obtained in d, typically for 24 hours.

When step d) is a total evaporation of the alcohol followed by freeze-drying step e), the extract is obtained in dry form (dry extract), which can optionally be ground and/or typically packaged in a bottle in glass.

The hydro-alcoholic extract according to the invention is preferably in the form of a 1.5% water-soluble powder, soluble in a 50/50 5% water/ethanol mixture, and is insoluble in ethanol. pure. It is preferably light brown in color.

The alcoholic extract according to the invention is preferably in the form of a water-insoluble powder, soluble in a 50/50 5% water/ethanol mixture, and soluble in 1% pure ethanol. It is preferably light brown in color.

Preferably, the alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic extract according to the invention comprises at least two, preferably at least three molecules chosen from quercetin, isoquercitrin (or isoquercetin or quercetin 3-O-glucoside), kaempferol 3- O-sophoroside (or sophoraflavonoloside) and hyperoside (or quercetin 3-O-galactoside).

Preferably, the dry alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic extract according to the invention comprises the following four molecules: quercetin, isoquercitrin (or isoquercetin or quercetin 3-O-glucoside), kaempferol 3-O-sophoroside and hyperoside.

Preferably, the extract according to the invention does not comprise kaempferol.

The invention also relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, an alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of maritime Armeria ( Armeria maritima ) according to the invention.

Preferably, the extract according to the invention is prepared by mixing between 20 g and 500 g, preferably between 50 g and 250 g, of powder of aerial plant parts per 1 L of solvent, preferably with 100 g of powder of aerial plant parts for 1 L of solvent.

More particularly, when the extract is in the form of dry extract, said dry extract is present in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight composition total.

More particularly when the extract is in the form of an extract in a hydroalcoholic or alcoholic medium, said extract is present in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 25% by weight, by relative to the total weight of the composition.

By “cosmetically acceptable medium”, is meant a medium compatible with the skin, the mucous membranes and/or the superficial body growths.

The compositions according to the invention can be in all the dosage forms conventionally used for topical application and in particular in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil ( W/O) or multiple (triple: W/O/W or O/W/O), aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules possibly being lipid vesicles of the ionic and/or non-ionic type (liposomes, niosomes, oleosomes). These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

The compositions according to the invention can also be in anhydrous form, such as for example in the form of an oil. The term "anhydrous composition" means a composition containing less than 1% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, and in particular free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.

Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of a gel, or an emulsion, a powder or a paste.

In addition, the composition according to the invention can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foaming gel, a treatment, a tonic or a mousse. It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick.

When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, the latter preferably contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example:

- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean oils, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by CREMER OLEO, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;

- synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas RCOOR2 and ROR2 in which R represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, Purcellin's oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl stearate -2-dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil;

- fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol;

- partially hydrocarbon and/or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;

- silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendent or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

- and mixtures thereof.

The term “hydrocarbon oil” in the list of oils mentioned above means any oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.

The other fatty substances which may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin or lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes of Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products marketed under the names KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil", "BY29" or "EPSX" by the company Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries.

These fatty substances can be chosen in a variety of ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the properties, for example of consistency or texture, desired.

The composition may comprise at least one emulsifier, chosen in particular from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately according to the emulsion to be obtained (water-in-oil or oil-in-water). The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also contain the usual ingredients in the cosmetics field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, perfumes, fillers, waxes, pasty fatty substances, sun protection filters or UV filters, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, basic agents, acids, sequestrants, polyols, nonionic, anionic, cationic surfactants.

The composition according to the invention can of course comprise other active agents of the barrier effect and/or other moisturizing active agents different from the extract of the invention.

The amounts of these various ingredients are those conventionally used in the field considered, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These ingredients, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and/or into the lipid vesicles.

The compositions according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one aqueous phase. The aqueous phase contains water, and optionally other water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvents. An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may comprise, for example, water chosen from natural spring water, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, or water from Vichy, or water floral.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible compound(s) to be added to the composition according to the invention and their quantities in such a way that the advantageous properties inherently attached to the composition in accordance with the invention are not , or not substantially, altered by the contemplated addition.

As indicated above, the present invention also relates to the use of an alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Armeria maritime ( Armeria maritima ) for reinforcing the barrier function and/or improving the hydration of the skin.

The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of at least one alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Armenia maritime ( Armeria maritima ) as described above, or of a composition as defined above. More particularly, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic treatment process as defined above for improving and/or reinforcing the barrier function of the skin, in particular for promoting the maintenance of skin having a good quality barrier function.

The method according to the invention may comprise repeated application, for example 1 to 3 times daily over one day or several days, preferably 1 to 2 times per day, and particularly over a prolonged period of at least 4, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of interruption. According to one embodiment, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention may comprise a single application. Preferably, a method according to the invention will comprise the topical application of a composition according to the invention to the skin, in particular to the skin of the face.

Concrete, but in no way limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

In the examples, the temperature is ambient (20° C.) and expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated.

Example 1: Preparation of extract s To alcoholic and hydro-alcoholic parts aerial of the Maritime Army ( Armeria maritima ) according to the invention

1. Hydro-alcoholic extract according to the invention:

• Broyage en fines particules des parties aériennes séchées d’Armérie maritime dans un broyeur (1 – 2mm de granulométrie). Les parties aériennes sont les parties exposées à l’air libre (feuilles, tiges et fleurs) dans les conditions de croissance normale de l’Armérie maritime, ce qui exclut en particulier les racines ;
• Extraction par macération dans un mélange éthanol/eau (50/50 en volume, i.e. v/v) à température ambiante, en introduisant 100g de poudre de plante par litre de solvant, et en maintenant à cette température pendant 2 heures ;
• Puis filtration sur un filtre Whatman GF/C de 1.2µm de porosité ;
• Evaporation de l’alcool à l’évaporateur rotatif à 35°C ;
• Puis lyophilisation du résidu aqueux pendant 24 heures ;
• Broyage et conditionnement de l’extrait sec obtenu en flacon en verre.

The hydro-alcoholic extract according to the invention was prepared according to the following process:

• Grinding of the dried aerial parts of Maritime Armeria into fine particles in a grinder (1 – 2mm grain size). The aerial parts are the parts exposed to the open air (leaves, stems and flowers) under the normal growth conditions of the sea worm, which excludes in particular the roots;
• Extraction by maceration in an ethanol/water mixture (50/50 by volume, ie v/v) at room temperature, introducing 100 g of plant powder per liter of solvent, and maintaining at this temperature for 2 hours;
• Then filtration on a Whatman GF/C filter with a porosity of 1.2 µm;
• Evaporation of the alcohol on a rotary evaporator at 35° C.;
• Then lyophilization of the aqueous residue for 24 hours;
• Grinding and packaging of the dry extract obtained in a glass bottle.

1. Extrait alcoolique (éthanolique) selon l’invention :

A hydro-alcoholic dry extract of aerial parts of seafaring armerie in powder form is thus obtained.

1. Alcoholic (ethanolic) extract according to the invention:

• Broyage en fines particules des parties aériennes séchées d’Armérie maritime dans un broyeur (1 – 2mm de granulométrie). Les parties aériennes sont les parties exposées à l’air libre (feuilles, tiges et fleurs) dans les conditions de croissance normale de l’Armérie maritime, ce qui exclut en particulier les racines ;
• Extraction par macération dans l’éthanol à température ambiante, en introduisant 100g de poudre de plante par litre de solvant, et en maintenant à cette température pendant 2 heures ;
• Puis filtration sur un filtre Whatman GF/C de 1.2µm de porosité ;
• Evaporation de l’alcool à l’évaporateur rotatif à 35°C ;
• Puis lyophilisation du résidu aqueux pendant 24 heures ;
• Broyage et conditionnement de l’extrait sec obtenu en flacon en verre.

The alcoholic extract according to the invention was prepared according to the following process:

• Grinding of the dried aerial parts of Maritime Armeria into fine particles in a grinder (1 – 2mm grain size). The aerial parts are the parts exposed to the open air (leaves, stems and flowers) under the normal growth conditions of the sea worm, which excludes in particular the roots;
• Extraction by maceration in ethanol at room temperature, introducing 100g of plant powder per liter of solvent, and maintaining at this temperature for 2 hours;
• Then filtration on a Whatman GF/C filter with a porosity of 1.2 µm;
• Evaporation of the alcohol on a rotary evaporator at 35° C.;
• Then lyophilization of the aqueous residue for 24 hours;
• Grinding and packaging of the dry extract obtained in a glass bottle.

This gives an ethanolic dry extract of powdered aerial parts of maritime armeria.

• de l’eau uniquement, permettant ainsi d’obtenir un extrait sec aqueux de parties aériennes d’Armérie maritime (ci-après « extrait aqueux comparatif ») ;

Additional crude extracts were made by replacing the ethanol/water mixture (50/50 v/v) or ethanol, by:

• water only, thus making it possible to obtain a dry aqueous extract of aerial parts of maritime Armérie (hereinafter “comparative aqueous extract”);

• de l’acétate d’éthyle uniquement, permettant ainsi d’obtenir un extrait sec acétate d’éthyle de parties aériennes d’Armérie maritime (ci-après « extrait acétate d’éthyle comparatif »).

Or

• ethyl acetate only, thus making it possible to obtain a dry ethyl acetate extract of aerial parts of maritime Armérie (hereinafter “comparative ethyl acetate extract”).

Example 2: Evaluation of efficacy on hydration and modulation of the barrier function

Principle:

The aim of this study is to evaluate the effects of alcoholic and hydro-alcoholic extracts of aerial parts of maritime Armérie according to the invention as described in example 1, on the expression of transcripts (mRNA) involved in the barrier function and skin hydration by RT-qPCR.

The alcoholic and hydro-alcoholic extracts of aerial parts of Maritime Armenia according to the invention and obtained according to example 1 were evaluated at 0.1 mg/mL.

The different markers studied are: CNFN, LCE3D and SPRR1A.

Protocol (experimental conditions):

Normal human epidermal keratinocytes were used to perform the study.

Cytotoxicity

Normal human epidermal keratinocytes were inoculated into 96-well culture plates and then cultured at 37° C. and 5% CO2 in culture medium for 24 hours. The culture medium was then replaced with culture medium containing or not containing (control) the test compounds (8 concentrations tested) then the cells were incubated for 24 hours. All conditions were carried out in n=2. At the end of the incubation, the cell viability was measured according to a standard test for measuring mitochondrial activity with Alamar Blue®.

Gene expression analysis RT-qPCR

The normal human epidermal keratinocytes were inoculated into 48-well culture plates and then cultured in culture medium for 3 days at 37° C. and 5% CO2 with renewal of the culture medium after the first 24 hours of culture. At the end of the incubation, the culture medium was replaced by test medium (supplemented with 1.5 mM CaCl2) containing or not (control) the test compounds and then the cells were incubated for 24 hours. All conditions were carried out in n=2.

At the end of the treatments, the culture media were removed and the cells were rinsed twice in PBS (w/o CaCl2, w/o MgCl2). The total RNAs were then isolated using a magnetic bead extraction kit and according to the supplier's recommendations (MagMAXTM-96 Total RNA Isolation Kit, Ambion). RNA quantification and quality control were analyzed using Labchip GX (Perkin Elmer).

The expression of the selected transcripts was analyzed by quantitative PCR in 2 steps. First, the cDNAs were reverse-transcribed from the RNAs using the Quantitect® Reverse transcription kit (QIAGEN) and according to the supplier's recommendations. The quantitative PCR experiments were then carried out using a LightCycler® 480 Real-Time PCR System in a 384-well plate (Roche) and according to the SYBR®Green incorporation technique (Roche) (Table 4). .

Results and conclusions:

The results are expressed as a modulation factor (Fc, fold change) compared to the untreated control after normalization of the relative expressions compared to the expression of a housekeeping gene (GAPDH). The expression of a gene is considered stimulated when it is multiplied at least by 1.5.

Table 1 shows the effect of a hydro-alcoholic extract of the aerial part of Maritime Armeria according to the invention on the expression of transcripts (mRNA) involved in the barrier function.

CNFN LCE3D SPRR1A Modulation Factor vs Control (Fc) Witness 1 1 1 Hydro-alcoholic extract according to the invention at 0.1 mg/mL 2.77 1.79 1.47

The results show that the hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of maritime Armérie according to the invention at 0.1mg/mL induces the expression of markers involved in the establishment of the stratum corneum and the barrier function (Eve Toulza, Nicolas R Mattiuzzo, Marie-Florence Galliano, Nathalie Jonca, Carole Dossat, Daniel Jacob, Antoine de Daruvar, Patrick Wincker, Guy Serre, Marina et al . Large-scale identification of human genes involved in epidermal barrier function. Genome Biology 8, R107 ( 2007)) (CNFN, LCE3D, SPRR1A).

The hydro-alcoholic extract of Armérie maritime according to the invention therefore has an interest in skin aging by improving the barrier function and hydration (RK Chaudhuri, K. Bojanowski et al. Improvement of hydration and epidermal barrier function in human skin by a novel compound isosorbide dicaprylate.International Journal of Cosmetic Science 39, 518–526 (2017)).

Table 2 compares the effects of the comparative aqueous extract of Armérie maritime, of the hydro-alcoholic extract of Armérie maritime according to the invention and of the ethanolic extract of Armérie maritime according to the invention, on the expression of transcripts (mRNA) involved in the barrier function.

CNFN LCE3D SPRR1A Modulation Factor vs Control (Fc) Witness 1 1 1 Ethanolic extract according to the invention at 0.1 mg/mL 5.18 6.3 1.53 Hydro-alcoholic extract according to the invention at 0.1 mg/mL 2.77 1.79 1.47 Comparative aqueous extract at 0.1 mg/mL 0.93 0.97 0.9

The results show that the two extracts of sea armenia comprising ethanol (i.e. the hydro-alcoholic extract and the ethanolic extract) induce at 0.1% the expression of markers involved in the establishment of the stratum corneum and the barrier function (CNFN, LCE3D and SPRR1A), whereas no stimulation is observed with the aqueous extract.

The best induction is obtained with the ethanolic extract of aerial parts of maritime Armérie according to the invention.

The two alcoholic and hydro-alcoholic extracts from Armérie maritime according to the invention therefore have an interest in skin aging by improving the barrier function and hydration.

Table 3 compares the effects of a hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of maritime Armérie according to the invention, of an ethanolic extract of aerial parts of maritime Armérie according to the invention, and of its main constituents described, on the expression of transcripts (mRNA) involved in barrier function and hydration.

CNFN LCE3D SPRR1A Modulation Factor vs Control (Fc) Witness 1 1 1 Alcoholic extract according to the invention at 0.1 mg/mL 5.18 6.3 1.53 Hydro-alcoholic extract according to the invention at 0.1 mg/mL 2.77 1.79 1.47 Kaempferol 0.1 mg/mL 0.28 0.63 0.41 Quercetin 0.1 mg/mL 0.13 0.2 0.13 Kaempferol 3-O-sophoroside 0.1 mg/mL 0.69 0.62 0.76 Hyperoside at 0.1 mg/mL 0.61 0.61 0.64 Isoquercitrin 0.1 mg/mL 0.54 0.47 0.57

The main components described are kaempferol, quercetin, isoquercitrin (or isoquercetin), kaempferol 3-O-sophoroside and hyperoside. It should be noted that the hydro-alcoholic extract according to the invention does not contain kaempferol.

The results show that the biological effectiveness observed is not brought by one of these main components, in the hydro-alcoholic and ethanolic extracts of aerial parts of maritime Armerie according to the invention.

These components even show an opposite effect to that observed with the extracts.

Table 4 presents the effects of different types of extracts from the aerial parts of Maritime Armenia on the expression of transcripts (mRNA) involved in the barrier function.

CNFN LCE3D SPRR1A Modulation Factor vs Control (Fc) Witness 1 1 1 Alcoholic extract according to the invention at 0.1 mg/mL 5.18 6.3 1.53 Hydro-alcoholic extract according to the invention at 0.1 mg/mL 2.77 1.79 1.47 Comparative aqueous extract at 0.1 mg/mL 0.93 0.97 0.9 Comparative ethyl acetate extract at 0.02 mg/mL 2.36 2.59 0.78

The extracts tested are the hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of maritime Armerie according to the invention; the ethanolic extract of aerial parts of maritime Armérie according to the invention; the comparative aqueous extract; and the comparative ethyl acetate extract.

The results show that among the different types of extracts of aerial parts of Maritime Armérie tested, the hydro-alcoholic and ethanolic extracts according to the invention, and the comparative ethyl acetate extract, induce the expression of markers involved in the establishment of the stratum corneum and the barrier function (CNFN, LCE3D and SPRR1A).

The modulation is much more important on the expression of CNFN and LCE3D.

The best induction is obtained with the ethanolic extract of aerial parts of maritime Armérie according to the invention.

Claims (13)

Alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Armeria maritima . Extract according to claim 1, characterized in that it is obtained by extraction of the aerial parts with a solvent chosen from alcohols and mixtures of water and at least one alcohol, preferably said alcohol is a mono-alcohol having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol. Extract according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the aerial parts are chosen from the flowers, leaves and/or stems of Armeria maritima . Extract according to Claim 2 or 3, characterized in that the mixture of water and at least one alcohol is a mixture comprising from 20% to 60% by volume of water relative to the total volume of the mixture, and from 40 % to 80% by volume of alcohol relative to the total volume of the mixture, preferably the mixture of water and at least one alcohol is a mixture comprising from 30% to 55% by volume, preferably from 45% to 55% by volume, of water relative to the total volume of mixture, and from 45% to 60% by volume, preferably from 47% to 55% by volume, of alcohol relative to the total volume of mixture. Extract according to one of Claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the mixture of water and at least one alcohol is a mixture comprising 50% by volume of water relative to the total volume of the mixture, and 50% by volume of alcohol, preferably ethanol, relative to the total volume of the mixture. Extract according to one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is obtained from the aerial parts which have been crushed beforehand and extracted using at least one alcohol or a hydro-alcoholic mixture, preferably 50%. Extract according to one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is obtained by a process comprising the following steps:
a: grinding of the dried aerial parts of Armeria maritima into fine particles in a grinder;
b: extraction by maceration in a solvent chosen from alcohols and mixtures of water and at least one alcohol, at a temperature of 15° C. to 45° C., in particular from 15° C. to 40° C. and in particular at room temperature, in particular by introducing from 10g to 500g of plant powder obtained in a, per liter of mixture of water and alcohol, in particular from 50g to 200g, and more particularly from 70g to 150g such as 100g of powder of plant obtained in a, per liter of solvent, and maintaining at this temperature for 1 to 5 hours, in particular 1 to 3 hours, in particular 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours 30 minutes, such as 2 hours; Then
c: filtration of the mixture obtained in b;
d: partial or total evaporation of the alcohol in the filtered mixture obtained in c; And
e: possibly lyophilization of the aqueous residue obtained in d. Extract according to one of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it comprises at least two, preferably at least three molecules chosen from quercetin, isoquercitrin, kaempferol 3-O-sophoroside and hyperoside; preferably it comprises the following four molecules: quercetin, isoquercitrin, kaempferol 3-O-sophoroside and hyperoside; preferably it does not include kaempferol. Extract according to one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it is a dry extract. Composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, an extract according to one of Claims 1 to 9. Use of an extract according to one of Claims 1 to 9 for reinforcing the barrier function and/or improving the hydration of the skin. Use of an extract according to one of Claims 1 to 9 for improving the quality of the skin and/or the complexion; and/or to prevent and/or treat the cosmetic signs associated with dry skin. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of at least one extract according to one of Claims 1 to 9, or of a composition according to Claim 10 .