FR2968987A1 - BUPLEVRE ESSENTIAL OIL - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of at least one extract of at least one plant of the species Bupleurum fruticosum L. for preventing and / or treating cutaneous signs of aging.

Description

The invention relates to the use of at least one extract of a plant of the species Bupleurum fruticosum L., for preventing and / or treating the cutaneous signs of aging. The human skin consists mainly of two compartments, namely a superficial compartment, the epidermis, and a deep compartment, the dermis, the cohesion of which is ensured by the epidermal junction. With regard to the natural human epidermis, it is composed mainly of three types of cells which are the keratinocytes, a very large majority, the melanocytes and the Langerhans cells. Each of these cell types contributes by its own functions to the essential role played in the body by the skin. The dermis provides the epidermis with a solid support. It is also its nurturing element. It consists mainly of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix composed mainly of collagen, elastin and a substance called the fundamental substance, components synthesized by the fibroblast. As for the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) or basement membrane, it consists of extracellular matrix leaflets separating cells of different origin: keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Collagen is a fibrous protein found in the extracellular environment of all connective tissues. Among the 20 types of collagen identified, collagen III is one of the major components of the dermis. It is secreted in the extracellular matrix by fibroblasts in pro-collagen form, consisting of 3 alpha polypeptide chains forming a helical structure. Collagen fibers are constantly renewed, but this renewal decreases with age, which results in thinning of the dermis and slackening of the skin, at the origin of a loss of firmness. This thinning of the dermis may also be due to pathological causes such as hypersecretion of corticosteroid hormones, certain pathologies or vitamin deficiencies. It is also recognized that extrinsic factors such as ultraviolet rays, tobacco or certain treatments also have an effect on the skin and on its collagen level. In addition, at menopause, the main changes in the dermis are a decrease in collagen level and dermal thickness. This leads to a thinning of the skin and / or mucous membranes in the menopausal woman. The woman feels a sensation of "dry skin" or skin that pulls and there is an accentuation of fine lines and wrinkles surface. The skin has a rough appearance on palpation and reduced flexibility.

In addition, it is known that collagen fibers are sensitive to certain enzymes called collagenases. Collagenases are part of a family of enzymes called metalloproteinases (MMPs). Very widely distributed in the living world, these enzymes are present, but weakly expressed, in normal physiological situations such as organ growth and tissue turnover. Their overexpression in humans and their activation are however linked to many processes, sometimes pathological, which involve the destruction and remodeling of the matrix. The metalloproteinase family consists of several well-defined groups based on their similarities in substrate structure and specificity (see Woessner, J. F., Faseb Journal, 1991, 5, 2145). Among these groups, there may be mentioned collagenases intended to degrade fibrillar collagens (MMP-1 or interstitial collagenase, MMP-8 or neutrophil collagenase, MMP-13 or collagenase 3), gelatinases which degrade type IV collagen or any other type of collagenase. denatured collagen form (MMP-2 or gelatinase A (72 kDa), MMP-9 or gelatinase B (92 kDa)), stromelysins (MMP-3) whose broad spectrum of activity is directed to the proteins of the extracellular matrix such as glycoproteins (fibronectin, laminin), proteoglycans, etc., or membrane metalloproteinases. It is also known that prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation, particularly of type A and / or B, has the effect of stimulating the expression of collagenases and more particularly MMP-1. This is one of the components of photo-induced skin aging. It is then understood from reading the foregoing the importance of collagen in the structure of tissues, particularly of the skin and / or mucous membranes, and the importance of combating its degradation so as to combat aging, be it chronobiological or photoinduced, and its consequences, namely the thinning of the dermis and / or the degradation of collagen fibers which cause the appearance of soft and / or wrinkled skin. Obviously, several courses of action are possible to prevent or limit the consequences of skin aging such as the stimulation of the synthesis of macromolecules, in particular collagens I, III or VII, and more particularly collagen III, or the inhibition of the synthesis of MMP-1. One of the aims of the present invention is precisely to propose a new asset in this sense. Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the inventors have observed that an extract of at least one plant of the species Bupleurum fruticosum L. proves particularly advantageous for preventing or treating disorders related to cutaneous aging that is of origin chronobiological or photobiological. What's more, this asset has the advantage of being of natural origin and thus, to meet a growing consumer demand in this sense.

Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the subject of the invention is the use, in particular the cosmetic use, of at least one extract of at least one plant of the species Bupleurum fruticosum L. for preventing and / or treating the signs. cutaneous aging. For the purposes of the invention, the term "cutaneous signs of aging" means any changes in the external appearance of the skin due to aging, whether chronobiological and / or photoinduced, such as, for example, lines and wrinkles, wilted skin, soft skin, thinned skin, lack of elasticity and / or tone of the skin, lack of density and / or firmness of the skin, but also any internal changes in the skin that do not occur. do not systematically reflect a modified external appearance, such as all internal skin damage, particularly collagen, resulting from exposure to ultraviolet radiation. To the inventors' knowledge, anti-aging activity, as well as the inhibitory activity of the collagenase activity of an extract of such a plant, has never been described to date. Only antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory or larvicidal activities of Bupleurum fruticosum have heretofore been described (Home et al .: J. of Essential Oil Ides., 2001, Vol.13: 387; Martin et al .: Planta Medica, 1993, Vol 59: 533, Lorente et al .: J. of Natural Products, 1989, Vol 52: 267, Evergetis et al .: Parasitology Res, 2009, Vol 105: 117, Ashour et al. J. of Pharmacy and Pharmacology, 2009, Vol 61: 1079). Furthermore, EP 0 972 508 describes the use of roots of a plant of the genus Bupleurum, to promote the production of extracellular matrices and in particular the production of type VIi collagen. The species considered in this document, however, are different from the species Bupleurum, fruticosum L. As can be seen from the examples below, the inventors have unexpectedly found that an essential oil of Bupleurum fruticosum L. effectively inhibits the synthesis of MMP-1, and stimulates the synthesis of type III collagen thus preventing degradation and / or repair the extracellular matrix of the dermis and thus prevent and / or treat deep wrinkles and loss of firmness of the skin. Thus, the subject of the invention is also the use, in particular the cosmetic use, of at least one extract of at least one plant of the species Bupleurum fruticosum L. for inhibiting the expression of the proteases of the extracellular matrix, particularly the metalloproteinases, and even more particularly metalloproteinase type 1 (MMP-1). The subject of the invention is also the use, in particular the cosmetic use, of at least one extract of at least one plant of the species Bupleurum fruticosum L., for preventing and / or reducing the degradation of collagen, in particular collagen of type III.

Accordingly, the invention relates to the use, including cosmetic, of at least one extract of a plant of the species Bupleurum fruticosum L. to prevent and / or treat wrinkles and fine lines. The subject of the invention is also the use, in particular the cosmetic use, of at least one extract of a plant of the species Bupleurum fruticosum L. for combating wilted, soft and / or thinned skin. The subject of the invention is also the use, in particular the cosmetic use, of at least one extract of at least one plant of the species Bupleurum fruticosum L. for preventing and / or treating cutaneous lesions related to menopause. Advantageously, the plant extract considered according to the invention may be formulated in a cosmetic or dermatological composition.

Thus, the present invention also relates to the use of at least one extract of at least one plant of the species Bupleurum fucticosum L. as a useful agent for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition. Preferably, the composition is a cosmetic composition.

According to a first variant embodiment, an extract of at least one plant of the species Bupleurum efruticosum L. according to the invention is intended for topical administration. Thus, the compositions containing the extract according to the invention may be in the form of a skincare base; a care cream, especially a day cream, night cream, anti-wrinkle cream; a makeup base; or a tinted skincare cream. It can in particular be skin care products such as a protective composition, treatment or care for the face, for the hands, for the feet, for large anatomical folds or for the body (for example day creams, night cream, make-up removing cream, sunscreen composition, body care or care milks, after-sun milks, lotion, gel or mousse for skin care or scalp, artificial tanning composition), an aftershave composition, or a hair composition. According to a second variant embodiment, an extract of at least one plant of the species Bupleurum fruticosum L. according to the invention is intended for oral administration.

Thus, the composition of the invention may be in any suitable form, particularly in the form of an oral solution, a tablet, a capsule, a capsule or a nutritional food or a nutritional supplement. Preferably, a vegetal extract according to the invention is intended for topical administration.

The amount of extract that can be used according to the invention is, of course, a function of the desired effect and can therefore vary to a large extent. This aspect is within the skill of those skilled in the art. To give an order of magnitude, an extract according to the invention may be used in an amount representing from 0.00001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0, 01 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising it.

According to another of its aspects, the invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising the combination of a plant extract of the species Bupleurum fruticosum L. according to the invention with at least one additional active agent chosen from the active ingredients wrinkles or anti-aging, moisturizing agents, UV filters, desquamating agents, antioxidants, active agents stimulating the synthesis of macromolecular and / or epidermal macromolecular, dermodecontracting agents, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, it is more particularly an active agent selected from anti-wrinkle or anti-aging active agents, moisturizing agents, UV filters, and mixtures thereof, and even more particularly anti-aging agents. wrinkles. The choice and the quantity of the additional assets depend in particular on the route of administration considered. These aspects are within the skill of those skilled in the art. According to yet another of its aspects, the present invention aims at a cosmetic treatment method, non-therapeutic, intended to prevent and / or treat the cutaneous signs of aging, in particular to firm the skin, comprising at least the oral administration or topically, in particular topical, at least one extract according to the invention. Advantageously, this topical application is carried out on the skin and / or the scalp.

Vegetable extract of the species Bupleurum fruticosum Bupleurum fruticosum L., also called Bupleurum frutescens Hill. or Tenoria fruticosa Spreng or, more commonly, Shrubby Bupleurum or Woody Bupleurum, is a plant belonging to the family Umbelliferae or Apiaceae. It is a shrub with evergreen foliage, quite common on poor soils scrubland type (dry, sunny). This species is therefore widespread in the regions around the Mediterranean (Provence, Languedoc Roussillon, Corsica). Its essential oil is used traditionally as a general stimulant of the body in massage and tonic baths, especially in sports traumatology. It also has mucolytic activity and stimulates the activity of the digestive glands.

According to the invention, the extract of at least one plant of the species Bupleurum fruticosum L. may be of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural. An extract of the species Bupleurum fruticosum within the meaning of the present invention may be any extract prepared from any plant material derived from said plant. Preferably, an extract according to the invention is an essential oil of Bupleurum.fruticosum L. According to the definition given in International Standard ISO 9235 and adopted by the European Pharmacopoeia Commission, an essential oil is a product generally of complex composition. obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material, either by steam distillation, by dry distillation, or by a suitable mechanical process without heating (cold expression). The essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process that does not entail a significant change in the composition. Advantageously, the essential oil of Bupleurum fruticosum L. according to the present invention contains mainly monoterpene compounds and in particular alpha-pinin, beta-pinene and limonene. The alpha-pinene may be present in the essential oil of Bupleurum fruticosum L. in a content greater than or equal to 27% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 32% by weight, and better still greater than or equal to 35% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of said essential oil. The beta-pinene may be present in the essential oil of Bupleurum fruticosum L. in a content greater than or equal to 20% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 25% by weight, and better still greater than or equal to 30% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of said essential oil. Limonene may be present in the essential oil of Bupleurum fruticosum L. in a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 7% by weight, by relative to the total weight of said essential oil. An essential oil according to the invention may be prepared from any plant material derived from at least one Bupleurum fruticosum L. grown in vivo or derived from in vitro culture. By in vivo culture is meant any culture of conventional type, ie in soil in the open air or in the greenhouse or above ground. By in vitro culture is meant all the techniques known to those skilled in the art which artificially allows the production of a plant or part of a plant. The selection pressure imposed by the physicochemical conditions during the growth of the plant cells in vitro makes it possible to obtain a standardized plant material that is available throughout the year, unlike plants grown in vitro. The essential oil of Bupieurum_fruticosum L. used in the present invention can be obtained from any plant material derived from this whole plant or from any part of this plant, such as, for example, leaves, stems, flowers or petals. , seeds, umbels, buds and roots. Preferably, an essential oil of Bupleurum fruticosum L. according to the invention is obtained from umbels or seeds, and more preferably from umbels. Even more preferably, an essential oil of Bupleurum firuticosum L. according to the invention is obtained from graminaceous umbels. An essential oil according to the invention may be prepared according to the techniques mentioned above.

Preferably, an essential oil according to the invention is obtained according to the conventional technique of steam distillation. Steam training corresponds to the vaporization in the presence of water vapor of a substance that is not very miscible with water. The raw material is brought into the presence of boiling water or water vapor in a still. The water vapor causes the essential oil vapor which is condensed in the refrigerant to be recovered in liquid phase in a florentine (or essencier) vase where the essential oil is separated from the water by decantation. The aqueous distillate which remains in steam distillation after the separation of the essential oil is called "aromatic water" or "hydrosol" or "floral distilled water".

Preferably, the extract according to the invention is prepared from the grafted umbels of Bupleurum fretectosum L., by hydro-distillation.

As indicated above, an extract according to the invention may be combined with at least one additional active agent chosen from anti-wrinkle or anti-aging active agents, moisturizing agents, UV-screening agents, desquamating agents, antioxidants and active agents. stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromoleculars, dermodecontracting agents, and mixtures thereof.

As indicated above, the choice and the content of these additional assets depends in particular on the route of administration considered that fall within the competence of those skilled in the art. These additional active agents may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.

Anti-wrinkle or anti-aging agents Representative of anti-wrinkle or anti-aging agents that may be used in the present invention, may more particularly be mentioned adenosine, retinol and its derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; tocopherol and its derivatives, such as tocopheryl acetate; nicotinic acid and its precursors, such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and its precursors, such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid; C-glycoside compounds and their derivatives, as described in particular below; plant extracts and in particular extracts of sea fennel and olive leaf, as well as vegetable proteins and their hydrolysates, such as hydrolysates of rice or soy proteins; or the aconitifolia vigna seed extracts, such as those marketed by Cognis under the references Vitoptine LS9529 and Vit-A-Like LS9737; algae extracts and in particular laminaria; bacterial extracts; sapogenins, such as diosgenin and extracts of Dioscorea, in particular Wild Yalta, containing it; u-hydroxyacids; β-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and their acyl derivatives, in particular {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylaminoacetic acid and the lipopeptides sold by SEDERMA under the trade names Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000; lycopene; manganese and magnesium salts, especially gluconates; and their mixtures. The additional anti-wrinkle or anti-aging active agent may represent at least 0.05%, preferably at least 0.5% and more preferably at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Moisturizing Agents As humectants or moisturizing agents, there may be mentioned urea and its derivatives including Hydrovancee marketed by National Starch, monosaccharides such as mannose, hyaluronic acid, AHA, BHA; homopolymers of acrylic acid such as NOF corporation Lipidure-HM®, betaglucan and in particular Mibelle-ACBiochemistry sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan; a polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol such as WILBRIDE S-753L® from NOF corporation, a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by the company Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those sold by the company Engelhard Lyon. The additional moisturizing agent may represent at least 0.05%, preferably at least 0.5% and more preferably at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

UV Filters As an illustration of the UV filters, and in a nonlimiting manner, mention may be made of anthranilates, in particular menthyl anthranilate; benzophenones, in particular benzophenone-1, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, and preferentially benzophenone-2 (oxybenzone) or Benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS40® available from BASF); benzylidenecamphers, in particular 3-benzylidene camphor, benzylidenecamphosulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulphate, polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene di-camphorsulfonic acid, and preferentially 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300 ® available from Merck); benzimidazoles, in particular benzimidazilate (Neo Heliopan AP® available from Haarmarm and Reimer), or phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Eusolex 232® available from Merch); benzotriazoles, in particular trisiloxane drometzol, or methylene bis-benzotriazolyitytramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M® available from Cilla); cinnamates, in particular cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylinnamate, dimethoxycinnamate glyceryl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl cinnamate, and preferably ethocrylene (Uvinul N35® available from BASF), octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX® available from Hoffmann La Roche), or ehocrylene (Uvinul 539® available from BASF); dibenzoylmethanes, in particular butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), imidazolines, in particular ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline, PABAs, in particular ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PABA, PEG- PABA, and preferentially diethylhexylbutamido-triazone (Uvasorb F-IEB ~ available from 3V Sigma), ethylhexyitriazone (Uvinul T150 (e available from BASF), or ethyl PABA (benzocaine), Mexoryl, salicylates, especially dipropylene glycol salicyclate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, or TEA salicylate, triazines, in particular anisotriazine (Tinosorb Se available from Ciba), trisiloxane drometrizole, zinc oxide, titanium, zinc oxide, iron, zirconium, cerium coated or uncoated.

Preferably, cinnamates, salicylates and mixtures thereof are used. The amount of filters depends on the desired end use. It may range, for example, from 1 to 30% by weight and better still from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing it.

In addition to the aforementioned assets, a composition according to the invention may also contain at least one of the following assets.

Descaling Agents As desquamating agents, mention may be made of beta-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives other than n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; Urea; glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, alpha-hydroxy acids (Ali.), beta-hydroxy acids (BHA), and mixtures thereof.

Thus, a composition according to the invention may comprise a desquamating agent in a content ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Antioxidant Agents As an antioxidant agent, mention may be made more particularly of tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate; ENTA, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl magnesium phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; chelating agents, such as BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts, and mixtures thereof. Thus, a composition in accordance with the invention may comprise an antioxidant agent in a content ranging from 0.001% to 10% and preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Dermodecontracting Agents or Dermorelaxants Dermorelaxing agents that may especially be mentioned include manganese gluconate, wild yam, sea fennel, glycine and alverine.

A composition according to the invention may comprise a dermorelaxing agent in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 5% and preferably from 0.001% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Assets stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation As active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of: peptides extracted from plants, such as soya hydrolyzate marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions under the trade name Phytokine® malt extract as marketed under the name Collalift`a by BASF BCS; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide® from SILAB, or an extract of rice peptides such as Colhibin® from Pentapharm DSM, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C © marketed by Exsyrnol; an extract of vaccinium myrtillus such as those described in FR-A-2 814 950; the lupine extract marketed by SILAB under the trade name Structurine®, and mixtures thereof.

A composition according to the present invention may comprise an active agent stimulating the synthesis of macromolecules in a content ranging from 0.001% to 10% and preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may also contain Vichy water, rich in minerals, for its fortifying, anti-radical, and soothing action.

Depigmenting Agents As depigmenting agents, mention may be made of ceramides, vitamin C and its derivatives, and especially the vits CG, CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, acid and the like. kojic, resorcinol and its derivatives, D calcium panthetin sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, phenylethyl resorcinol such as Symwhite 377e from Symrise, a water of kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that sold by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®, a brown sugar extract (Saccharum officinarum), such as the melamine extract marketed by the company Taiyo Kagaku under the name Molasses Liquid, a mixture of undecylenic acid and phenylalanine undecylenoyl, such as Sepiwhite MSHde Seppic.

COMPOSITION An extract according to the invention may be present in a composition intended for a cosmetic or dermatological application. Preferably, this composition according to the invention is intended for a cosmetic application. As indicated above, an essential oil of Bupleurum fruticosum 25 L. according to the present invention contains mainly monoterpene compounds and in particular alpha-pinene, beta-pinene and limonene. Thus, according to one particular embodiment, a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises Bupleurum fruticosum L. essential oil consisting of at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight, and better still at least 70% by weight of monoterpenes selected from alpha-pinene, beta-pinene, and limonene, based on the total weight of said essential oil.

Preferably, an extract according to the invention, when present in a composition, can be formulated in a physiologically acceptable medium. A physiologically acceptable medium is preferably a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say without odor, color or unpleasant appearance, and which is perfectly compatible with the route of administration considered. When the composition is to be administered topically, such a medium is considered physiologically acceptable when it does not generate tingling, tightness or redness unacceptable to the user.

Furthermore, when the composition is intended to be administered orally, such a medium is considered physiologically acceptable when it does not generate oral intolerance. A composition according to the invention is preferably intended for topical use.

The composition according to the invention may be present in all the galenic fofines normally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields. It may especially be in the form of an aqueous solution, hydroalcoholic, optionally gelled, a dispersion of the lotion type possibly two-phase, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, an aqueous gel , a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, in particular using spherules, these spherules may be polymeric particles or better, lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type, or else in the form of a powder, serum, paste or soft stick. It can be of solid consistency, pasty, or liquid more or less fluid.

Thus, the composition may comprise all the constituents usually used in the application and the type of administration envisaged. Mention may in particular be made of water, solvents, oils of mineral, animal and / or vegetable origin, in particular as detailed below, the waxes, in particular as described below, the pigments, the fillers, the surfactants, gelling agents, preservatives, and mixtures thereof, in particular water.

Thus, a composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 35 to 75% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition.

A composition of the invention may advantageously have a firm and compact grip to the grip. It can be thick on application and then transform, melt and release freshness. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the extract according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged and that the properties of the resulting compositions are compatible with the preferred route of administration. A composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one liquid fatty phase at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

As examples of oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut or apricot oils, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyoi 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas RICO®R7 and R, OR2 in which R1 represents the remainder of a fatty acid having from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate or isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate, and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as oils of paraffin, volatile or not, and their derivatives, isohexadecane, isododecane, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil, - natural or synthetic essential oils, - alcohols not having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, alcohol oleic or linoleic alcohol, partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone such as those described in document IP-A-2-295912, the silicone oils e such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

Other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, waxes and fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid.

As waxes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, vegetable waxes such as wax of Carnauba, Candellila, Ouricury, Japan, cocoa butter or cork fiber or sugarcane waxes, mineral waxes, eg paraffin, petrolatum, lignite or microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites synthetic waxes, among which are polyethylene waxes, polytetrafluoroethylene waxes and waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, or silicone waxes, hydrogenated oils that are solid at 25 ° C., such as hydrogenated castor oil, and oil. hydrogenated jojoba, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil and concrete fatty esters at 25 ° C such as C20-C40 alkyl stearate sold under the trade name "STFR WAX K82H "by the company KOSTER KEUNEN. These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture. The compositions according to the invention may comprise a volatile oil. For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0 to 13 Pa at 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

Volatile oils which may be mentioned include, among others, cyclic or linear silicones containing from 2 to 6 silicon atoms, such as cyclohexasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, butyltrisiloxane and ethyltrisiloxane. It is also possible to use branched hydrocarbons such as, for example, isododecane as well as volatile perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by the company 3M and the derivatives perfluoromorpholine, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M.

The amount of oily phase present in the compositions according to the invention may range, for example, from 0.01 to 50% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of an emulsion, in particular obtained by dispersing an aqueous phase in a fatty phase (W / O) or a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W). , of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, or of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or of multiple emulsion (W / O / E or 14 / E / L1). These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. A composition of this type may have the form of a care product or make-up of the face and / or the body, and may be packaged, for example, in the form of a potted cream or a fluid in a tube or in a pump bottle. The emulsions according to the invention may comprise at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. Advantageously, the emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifiers are generally present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For the O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic surfactants, and in particular saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acid and polyol esters containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. at 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say containing oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene units, such as esters of glyceryl and of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of polyethylene glycol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sorbitol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkylglucose) and C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one silicone elastomer such as the products sold under the names "KSG" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil", "BY29" or "EPSY" by the company Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries. A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one dyestuff chosen, for example, from pigments, nacres, dyes, effect materials and mixtures thereof. These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one filler, especially in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30%. in weight. These fillers may be inorganic or organic in any form, platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, or amorphous). Mention may be made of silica, talc, mica, kaolin, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, PTFE powders, PMMA powders, methyl silsesquioxane resin powders (such as Tospearl 145A from GE Silicone), hollow hemispherical silicone resin particles (such as Takemoto Gil and Fat's NLK 500, NLK 506 and NLK 510), barium sulfate, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and hydrochloric acid. magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example stearate zinc, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate. A composition according to the invention may also contain various adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetics field, such as sequestering perfumes; And thickeners and gelling agents. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional adjuvants, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the plant extract according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged and that they are also compatible with the route of administration considered. A composition according to the invention may be manufactured by any known method generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the phrase "having a" must be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one" unless the contrary is specified. Expressions "between ... and ..." and "from ... to ..." must be understood as inclusive terms unless otherwise specified. The following examples and figures are presented for illustrative and non-limiting purposes of the invention. The percentages are expressed by weight of raw materials. The compounds are, as the case may be, cited in chemical names or in CITA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook). In the examples below, the compounds are, as the case may be, listed in chemical names or CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook). EXAMPLES Example 1: Obtaining an essential oil according to the invention kg of freshly harvested grape bunches of Bupleurum fruticosum L. are distilled "fresh" without pretreatment. This distillation is carried out for 165 minutes according to the so-called steam distillation technique in a "Pilot 50 liters" apparatus, ie of the same principle as that detailed in the European Pharmacopoeia (PH Eur. 4th Ed 2.8.12). 63 grams of an essential oil according to the invention containing, as majority compounds, alpha pinene (37.83%), beta-pinene (31.98%) and limonene (7, 72%). EXAMPLE 2 Care cream in the form of an oil / water emulsion The composition and after is produced in a conventional manner for a person skilled in the art. This cream of care in the form of oil / water emulsion can be applied daily on the neck and / or the face.

Example 3: Effects of an essential oil of Bupleurum fruticosum L. on the expression of collagen III The in vitro effect of the essential oil of Bupleurum fruticosum L. obtained according to Example 1 above is evaluated on the basis of Expression of collagen III at normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) via the quantitative RT-PCR technique. These fibroblasts are inoculated into 24-well plates and cultured in a culture medium defined below at 37 ° C. and 5% CO 2 for 48 hours. The culture medium is then replaced with a test medium, also defined hereinafter, the fibroblasts being cultured for an additional 24 hours. Raw materials {CONCENTRATION (in% / o) Glyceryl stearate Paraffinum liquidum 5.5 Bupleurum fruticosum L. essential oil of Example 1 Preservatives 0.4 Triethanolamine 4 Glycerine 5 Stearyl alcohol 1.5 Disodium EDTA 0.05 Xanthane 0.1 Potassium sorbate 0.15 Perfume 0.2 Carbomer 0.4 Water QSP 100 0.8 20 DMEM supplemented with: Culture medium - 2 mM L-glulamine; Penicillin 50 U / ml; Streptomycin 50 μg / ml; - Fetal calf serum (FCS) 10%. DMEM test medium supplemented with: - 2 mM glulamine; Penicillin 50 U / ml; Streptomycin 50 dg / ml; - SVF 1%. Then, or not (untreated control) added the essential oil of Bupleurum fruticosum Id obtained in Example 1. In parallel, the same experiment is carried out while replacing the essential oil with TGFb. The fibroblasts are then incubated for 24 hours. At the end of this incubation step, the culture supernatants are removed and the cell mats are rinsed with a solution of PBS ("phosphate buffered saline") and covered with a TRI-Reagent® solution. The plates are immediately frozen at -80 ° C. The expression of collagen III is then evaluated by conventional RT-qPCR on messenger RNAs extracted from the cell mats of each treatment. For this purpose, the "reverse transcription" step is performed by: - extraction of the total RNAs from each cell layer using TRI-15 Reagente according to the protocol recommended by the supplier. The amount of DNA was then evaluated using Nanovue (Amersham); - removal of traces of potentially contaminating DNA by treatment with the DNA-free system (Ambion 1906); performing the "reverse-transenption" reaction of the mRNA in the presence of the oligo (dT) primer and the Superscript II enzyme (Gibco); and quantification of the cDNA obtained using the Nanovue (Amersham) and cDNA adjustment at 10 ng / ql. As for the quantitative polymerase chain reaction (PCR) step, it is performed using the "Light Cycier" system (Roche Moiecular Systems Inc.) and according to the procedures recommended by the supplier.

The couples of primers (primers) used for the amplification of the specific collagen III gene (COL3A1 / Gene Bank reference: NM-000090) are easily determinable by those skilled in the art with regard to the COL 3A1 sequence. Thus, the reaction mixture (10 μl final) for each sample comprises: 2.5 μCdDNAc10 / μl; - the appropriate primers; and a reaction mixture (Roche) containing the enzyme Taq DNA polymerase, the SYBR Green I marker (fluorophore that intercalates in the double-stranded DNA, during the elongation step) and MgCl 2. Results The expression results of the collagen marker 3 are hereinafter expressed as a percentage relative to the untreated control. As is apparent from the above results, the essential oil of Bupleurum fruticosum L. induces a stimulation of the expression of the gene coding for the synthesis of colloid 11I and thus confirm the beneficial effect of this essential oil on the prevention and / or or the treatment of skin aging.

Example 4: Effects of an essential oil of Bupleurum fruticosum L. on the expression of MIVIP-1 The in vitra effect of the essential oil of Bupleurum fruticosum L. obtained according to Example 1 above is evaluated on the amount of MMP-1 via an ELISA assay. Fibroblasts (NHDF) are cultured in 96-well plates in culture medium as defined in Example 3 for 24 hours at 37 ° C., 5% CO 2. After incubation, this culture medium is replaced by a distinct culture medium and containing (untreated control) the essential oil of Bupleurum fruticosum L. obtained as example 1. The cells are then incubated for 24 hours. TGFJ3 control essential oil of Bupleurum fruticosum L. Collagen 3 100 142 10 ng / ml 0.0002% 159 0.002% 173 Concentra 10 This medium is then replaced by the irradiation medium as defined in Example 3. The cells are then irradiated or no (unirradiated control) by UVA at 15 J / cm 2. At the end of the irradiation, the irradiation medium is replaced by the test medium 5 as defined in Example 3, which may or may not contain (control) the test compound. The cells are then incubated for 48 hours. At the end of the incubation, the amount of MMP-1 present in the supernatants of the culture media is measured using an R & D Systems ELISA assay kit with DV901 reference according to the supplier's specifications.

Results Concentration Expression of MMP-1 (in%) Control 1 100 + UVA Control 3 - UVA Essential oil of 81 Bupieurum fruticosum 0.0002% L. + UVA Conclusion The results above attest to the effectiveness of essential oil of Buμmplorer, fruticosum L. on the inhibition of MMP-1 expression in irradiated human fibroblasts, thus demonstrating its potential to prevent and / or treat photoinduced aging.

Claims (13)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic use of at least one extract of at least one plant of the species Bupleurum fruticosum L. for preventing and / or treating the cutaneous signs of aging. 2. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the extract is intended to prevent and / or treat wrinkles and fine lines. 3. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is intended to fight against skin withered, soft and / or thinned. 4. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is used in an amount representing from 0.00001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising it. 5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is intended for topical administration. 6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is an essential oil of Bupleurum fruticosum L .. 7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is obtained from umbels or seeds Bupleur ° um.fr uticosum L., and more preferably from the umbels grained. 8. Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least one extract of at least one plant of the species Bupleurum fruticosum L. as defined in claims 4 to 7 and an additional active agent chosen from anti-wrinkle or anti-aging active agents, moisturizing agents, UV filters, and mixtures thereof. 9. Cosmetic composition comprising at least one essential oil of Bupleurum fruticosum L., characterized in that said essential oil of Bupleurum fruticosum. L. consists of at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight, and more preferably at least 70% by weight of monoterpenes selected from alpha-pinene, beta-pinene, and limonene, based on the total weight of said essential oil. 10. Composition according to claim 8 or 9, characterized in that said composition is in the form of a skincare base; a care cream, especially a day cream, night cream, anti-wrinkle cream; a makeup base; or a tinted care cream. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 8 to 10, characterized in that said composition further comprises at least one liquid fatty phase at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. 12. Cosmetic treatment process intended to prevent and / or treat cutaneous signs of aging comprising at least the topical administration of at least one extract of at least one plant of the species Bupleurum fruticosum L. as defined according to US Pat. any of claims 4 to 7. 13, cosmetic treatment method according to claim 12, characterized in that said method is intended to firm the skin.