FR3075645A1 - PROCESS FOR COLORING KERATINIC FIBERS FROM INDIGOFERE (S), HENNE (S) AND SPECIAL ALKALIN (S) AGENT (S) POWDER (S) - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the invention is (I) a process for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, such as the hair, in which said fibers are treated in several steps, comprising at least one staining step a) of said fibers implementing a dye cosmetic composition comprising indigestible plant powder (s) i) and henna ii); at least one treatment step b) said fibers implementing a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more agent (s) agent (s) alkaline (s) iii) selected (s) from alkanolamines; it being understood that composition A is preferably used first of all on keratin fibers; and that the composition B is used on the keratinous fibers after application of the composition A and (II) the use of a composition B comprising one or more alkaline agent (s) chosen from the alkanolamine (s) iii) to stabilize the day of application the staining of keratinous fibers from indigo and henna and / or to improve the intensity, and / or the rise of the color and the tenacity of the coloring.

Description

METHOD FOR COLORING KERATINIC FIBERS FROM INDIGOFERED PLANT (S) POWDER, HENNE AND SPECIAL ALKALINE AGENT (S) The subject of the invention is (I) a coloring process keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as the hair, in which said fibers are treated in several stages, comprising at least one stage of coloring a) of said fibers using a coloring cosmetic composition A comprising i) of powder and / or an extract of indigofere plant (s), and ii) henna; at least one step of treatment b) of said fibers using a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more agent (s) alkaline agent (s) iii) chosen from alkanolamines; it being understood that composition A is preferably applied first to the keratin fibers; and that composition B is applied to the keratin fibers after application of composition A and (II) the use of a composition B comprising one or more alkaline agent (s) chosen from the alkanolamine (s) ) iii) to stabilize the color of the colored fibers from henna and indigo over time (the day of implementation of the coloring process) and to improve the intensity, the increase in color and / or the color hold.

Indeed, the colors from indigo and henna are generally evolutionary over time in terms of color; they show a characteristic yellow / green coloration on the day of application (i.e. on the day of coloration). This “raw” color, not very aesthetic and not appreciated by users of coloring, who evolve towards the desired colorings after a few hours (48H to 1 week) and can change color over time (appearance of purplish red reflections after generally 2 to Three weeks). There is therefore a need to stabilize this coloring in order to obtain aesthetic coloring on the day of the application (example brown free of yellow / green reflections) which changes little over time (without color change).

Two main modes of coloring human keratin fibers, and in particular the hair, are known.

The first, called oxidation or permanent coloring, consists in using one or more oxidation dye precursors, more particularly one or more oxidation bases possibly associated with one or more couplers.

Usually, oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- or paraphenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols as well as heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, associated with oxidizing products, allow access, through an oxidative condensation process, to colored species which remain trapped inside the fiber.

Very often, the nuances obtained with these oxidation bases are varied by associating them with one or more couplers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indole compounds.

The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers allows obtaining a rich palette of colors.

The second mode of coloring, called direct or semi-permanent coloring, involves the application of direct dyes which are colored and coloring molecules, having an affinity for fibers. Given the nature of the molecules used, they rather remain on the surface of the fiber and penetrate relatively little inside the fiber, compared to the small molecules of oxidation dye precursors. The main advantages of this type of coloring is that it does not require an oxidizing agent which limits the degradation of the fibers and that it does not use dyes with a certain reactivity, hence limiting the risks of intolerance.

The first hair dyes were semi-permanent. One of the most well-known natural dyes is indigo (see Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, "hair preparation", point 5.2.3, 2006 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim; 10.1002 / 14356007, a 12 571.pub2). Indigo continues to be used to beautify women by coloring hair, nails, or to color fabrics (jeans) leather, silk and wool, etc. Indigo [482-89-3] is a natural blue dye and its indomer isomer is red, Their crude formulas is: C16H10N2O2; and their chemical structures are as follows:

Depending on the oxidation, over oxidation, isatin can give either indogotine or indirubin. (Maugard et al, 2001). The presence of these two isomers explains the presence of a purplish color of indigo more or less marked according to the respective proportion in the hair of the 2 isomers formed in the hair (in particular from purple to purple if the amount of indirubin increases). Indigo is from the Indian can be prepared from different plants called indigofere such as Indigofera tinctoria, Indigo suffruticosa, Polygonum tinctorium etc (see Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, updated on 04/17 / 2009, DOI: 10.1002 / 0471238961.0425051903150618.a01.pub2). Indigo plants are usually cut and soaked in hot water, heated, fermented and air oxidized to release the purple blue indigo (see Chem. Rev. 2011,111,2537-2561, p. 2537-2561). Indigo is the result of hydrolysis and then oxidation of the indican (glycosylated precursor).

The problem is that coloring from indigo leaf is difficult because the coloring kinetics in keratin fibers are variable. In addition, the coloring process is unstable. Indigo theoretically provides a blue coloration with white hair, and a "cold" ash-like color. However, the coloring process from indigo is

difficult to control because of the competitive reaction of indirubin formation (also involving an oxidation stage with the formation of intermediate yellow isatin) bringing yellow to purple reflections complementary to brown hair over time.

The colors resulting from the mixtures of indigo and henna are therefore generally evolutionary over time in terms of color, they exhibit a characteristic yellow / green coloration on the day of coloration (“raw” color which is not very aesthetic, little appreciated by consumers of coloration ) which evolve towards the desired colorations after a few hours (48H to 1 week) and can change color over time (appearance of purplish red reflections after generally 2 to 3 weeks). There is therefore a need to stabilize this coloring in order to obtain aesthetic coloring on the day of the application (example brown free of yellow / green reflections) which changes little over time (without color change).

To remedy this problem of unattractive coloring on the day of coloring and color change, it is known to "boost" the coloring by adding direct dyes to mask unwanted reflections. The dyes are generally used in direct coloring such as the nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, methine, azomethine, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane dyes (see for example EP 0 806 199). This option has the drawback for users of natural products, or those who favor "natural / organic", that the coloring is partly carried out using synthetic dyes. However, the reflection provided on the day of the application does not prevent the color change over time (evolution of the yellow reflection still present in the fiber, although masked, towards red).

Furthermore, the colors obtained from indigo are not always homogeneous between the root and the tip or from one fiber to another (The Science of Hair Care, C. Bouillon, J. Wilkinson, 2d Ed. , CRC Press, Taylor & Francis Group; Boca Raton, London, p. 236-241 (2005)).

Finally, indigo as a molecule is insoluble in water while henna is soluble in it, resulting in a mixture of the 2 dyes significant inhomogeneities of rise in color between the root and the tip (selectivity).

There is therefore a real need to develop coloring methods which make it possible to obtain powerful, aesthetic and natural colorings at the end of the coloration, and which in particular make it possible to obtain rapid colourations, the coloration of which does not present any yellow / green reflections which are considered unsightly by the user, having a good rise in color, less aggressive for the hair and at the same time which resist external agents (light, bad weather, shampoos), which are tenacious and / or homogeneous while remaining powerful and / or chromatic, which does not veer over time in particular towards red reflections.

This object is achieved by the present invention which relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as the hair, in which said fibers are treated in several stages, comprising: - at least one stage of coloring a) of said fibers using a coloring cosmetic composition A comprising i) powder and / or extract of indigofere plant (s), and ii) henna; - At least one step of treatment b) of said fibers using a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more agent (s) alkaline agent (s) iii) chosen from alkanolamines; - it being understood that preferably composition A is applied first to the keratin fibers; composition B being applied to the keratin fibers after application of composition A; the process preferably using at least one rinsing step, and / or one washing step between the coloring step using the composition A and the treatment step using the application of the composition B .

Thus, according to a first embodiment, the coloring process according to the invention preferably implements a first treatment step b) with a composition B comprising one or more alkanolamines as an alkaline agent, then a coloring step a) keratin fibers via the application of a coloring composition A to the fibers comprising powder of indigofere plant (s) and henna.

According to a second particularly preferred embodiment, the dyeing method according to the invention preferably implements a first step of dyeing keratin fibers by applying a dye composition A to the fibers comprising plant powder ( s) indigofere (s) and henna, then in post-treatment a treatment step with a composition B comprising one or more alkanolamines as alkaline agent. .ie. in post-processing. The subject of the invention is also the use of alkaline agent (s) ii) chosen from alkanolamines (and of a composition B comprising said alkaline agents as defined below) to accelerate the obtaining of a stable and aesthetic color, that is to say without yellow reflections on the day of the application and not evolving towards red over time and / or in terms of power and intensity of the coloring and / or to improve the toughness of the coloring. The subject of the invention is also the use of alkaline agent (s) ii) chosen from alkanolamines (and of a composition B comprising said alkaline agents as defined below) for improving the kinetics of coloring keratin materials colored from indigo, in particular in terms of power and intensity of coloring, and / or for improving the toughness of coloring.

The process for dyeing keratin fibers according to the invention has the advantage of dyeing said fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, in particular the hair, with natural dye results without yellow / green reflections, and / or powerful dyes, chromatic, resistant to washing, perspiration, sebum and to light and more durable without alteration. In addition, the colors obtained from the process are homogeneous from the root to the tip of a fiber (low color selectivity).

The compositions used according to the invention are cosmetic compositions i.e. they are cosmetically acceptable therefore suitable for use for application to keratin fibers, in particular for application to human keratin fibers, such as the hair.

Preferably, composition A is obtained by mixing just before use the powder of indigofere plant (s) i) and henna ii) with an aqueous composition to obtain a ready-to-use coloring composition A, preferably under the shape of a poultice. Preferably, compositions A and / or B are aqueous compositions, preferably A and B are aqueous compositions. /) powder of plants) indiqofère (s)

The coloring composition A) according to the invention comprises powder of indigofere plant (s) and / or a coloring extract of indigofere plant (s).

For the purposes of the present invention, “indigofere plant extract” means a “indigofere plant dye extract”.

As indigofere plant we can cite many species from the genera: - Indigofera such as Indigofera tinctoria, Indigo suffruticosa, Indigofera articulata Indigofera arrecta, Indigofera gerardiana, Indigofera argenta, Indigofera indica, Indigofera longiracemosa; - Isatis such as Isatis tinctoria; - Polygonum or Persicaria such as Polygonum tinctorium (Persicaria tinctoria); - Wrightia such as Wrightia tinctoria; - Calanthe such as Calanthe veratrifolia; and - Baphicacanthus such as Baphicacanthus cusia.

Preferably the indigofere plant is of the genus Indigofera and more particularly is Indigofera tinctoria, Suffructicosa or argentea, preferably Indigofera tinctoria.

One can use all or part (in particular the leaves in particular for Indigofera tinctoria) of the indigofere plant.

The indigofere plant powder can be sieved to obtain particles of upper limit sizes corresponding to the orifices or mesh sizes of the sieve particularly between 35 and 80 mesh (US).

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the particle size of the indigofere plant powder is fine. According to the invention, more particularly means a particle size less than or equal to 500 μm. Preferably, the powder consists of fine particles of size inclusive between 50 and 300 μm and more particularly between 10 and 200 μm.

It is understood that said particles of indigofere plant (s) preferably have a moisture content of between 0 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the powders.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the powder and / or the extract of indigofere plant (s) is present in composition A (anhydrous) in a content varying from 10 and 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A, more particularly varying from 20 and 90% by weight, preferably varying from 20 and 80% by weight, when composition A does not include water or solvent.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, composition A is obtained by mixing just before use (that is to say extemporaneously) the powder and / or the extract of indigofere plant (s) i ) and henna ii) with water or with an aqueous composition to obtain a ready-to-use coloring composition A, preferably in the form of a poultice.

According to this embodiment, the powder and / or the extract of indigofere plant (s) is present in composition A preferably in a content varying from 0.5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A, more particularly varying from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably varying from 5 to 30% by weight, when said composition A is aqueous.

According to another particular embodiment, composition A when it is ready for use comprises water.

It is therefore preferably aqueous. By "ready to use" is meant a composition ready to be applied directly to the keranitic fibers.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition A of the invention may also contain one or more surfactant (s), preferably anionic (s) or nonionic (s).

The composition A ready to use applied to the keratin fibers according to the process of the invention is preferably obtained from the mixture between powder and / or the extract of indigofere plant (s) i) in compact form or not, henna ii), and an aqueous composition, preferably water.

Preferably composition A ready for use applied to the keratin fibers according to the process of the invention is in the form of a poultice.

Preferably, the ready-to-use coloring composition A comprises a water content ranging from 10% to 99% by weight, more particularly from 20% to 95% by weight, better still from 40% to 90% by weight relative to the weight of composition A ready for use.

To do this i) the powder and / or the extract of indigofere plant (s), henna ii) and optionally the additional compounds as described above, are mixed with an aqueous composition comprising water, to obtain a poultice of a smooth and pleasant consistency corresponding to composition A ready for use. When the powder of indigofere plant (s) is compact, it is crumbled into the aqueous composition, and preferably the compact composition is crumbled into water.

Henna ii)

The coloring composition A) according to the invention comprises henna ii).

According to the present invention, by "henna" is meant a powder of henna plant and / or a coloring extract of henna plant, preferably of henna plant such as Lawsonia alba or Lawsonia inermis. The powder and / or coloring extract of henna plant comprises in particular lawsone and / or one of its glucosylated precursors.

Preferably, the henna used according to the present invention is in powder form.

It is understood that "henna powder" (and "indigofere plant powder" is different from an extract). Indeed, an extract is a maceration product in generally organic solvents, while the powder according to the invention is a natural product originating from henna plants or indigoferes, reduced by grinding or other mechanical means, into fine particles.

Preferably the henna used in the invention is red henna (Lawsonia inermisT alba). Lawone [83-72-7] (Cl Natural Orange 6; Cl 75420) also known as isojuglone, can be found in Henna shrubs (Lawsonia alba, Lawsonia inermis). Preferably the henna is in powder form. The henna powder can be sieved to obtain particles of upper limit sizes corresponding to the orifices or mesh sizes of the sieve particularly between 35 and 80 mesh (US). According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the particle size of the henna powder is fine. According to the invention, more particularly means a particle size less than or equal to 500 μm. Preferably, the powder consists of fine particles of size inclusive between 10 and 300 μm and more particularly between 50 and 250 μm. It is understood that said henna particles preferably have a moisture content of between 0 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the powders.

Preferably, said henna particles come from henna leaves.

As indicated above, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition A is in the form of a solid composition, preferably pulverulent, preferably anhydrous. According to this embodiment, henna is preferably present in composition A in a content varying from 5 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A, more particularly varying from 10 to 60% by weight, preferably varying from 15 to 40% by weight, in particular relative to the weight of anhydrous composition A,

As indicated above, according to another particular embodiment of the invention, composition A is obtained by mixing just before use (that is to say extemporaneously) the powder of indigofere plant (s) i) and henna ii) with water or with an aqueous composition to obtain a ready-to-use coloring composition A, preferably in the form of a poultice.

According to this embodiment, henna is present in composition A preferably in a content varying from 0.5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A, when said composition A is aqueous, more particularly varying from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably varying from 2 to 10% by weight.

Preferably, the indigofere plant powder i) and henna ii) are present in composition A in a weight ratio i) / ii) varying from 0.1 to 95, preferably from 0.5 to 50, better still 1 to 10.

iii) the alkaline agents chosen from the alkanolamines of composition B

Within the meaning of the present invention, the terms “alkaline agent” or “alkalizing agent” are used interchangeably

Composition B used in the process according to the invention as a post-treatment comprises one or more alkaline agents iii) chosen from alkanolamines.

By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more alkyl groups, linear or branched, in Ci-Cs carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.

Particularly suitable for carrying out the invention are alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines.

In particular the alkanolamine (s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, Ν, Ν-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, triisopropanol-amine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino- methane, and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferably, the alkanolamine is monoethanolamine.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, composition B also comprises water.

Advantageously, composition B comprising iii) one or more alkaline agent (s) chosen from alkanolamine (s) is an aqueous composition whose pH is greater than or equal to 7.5 and preferably less or equal to 12; in particular at a pH ranging from 8.0 to 11.5.

Preferably, the alkaline agent (s) chosen from the alkanolamine (s) is (are) in the aqueous composition B in a content preferably ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the compositions containing the alkaline agent (s) and even more preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight.

Preferably, the alkaline agent (s) iii) chosen from alkanolamine (s) is (are) in aqueous composition B, in a concentration inclusive between 0.1 M and 1 M, such as 0.5 M.

Composition B according to the invention can also comprise one or more additional alkaline agent (s), preferably chosen from carbonates, bicarbonates, amino acids (preferably chosen from arginine, glycinate , serine and / or proline) and / or mixtures thereof.

Organic solvents:

The compositions A and / or B as defined above can comprise one or more organic solvent (s). As organic solvent, preferred are lower C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, hexylene glycol, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol.

The organic solvents are present in proportions preferably of between 0.1 and 20% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the composition considered, and even more preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight approximately.

Oils

The compositions A and / or B as defined above can comprise one or more oils, identical or different.

By "oil" is meant a "fatty substance" which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C), and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg); the viscosity at 25 ° C. is preferably less than 1200 cps, better still less than 500 cps (defined for example from the Newtonian plateau determined using an ARG2 rheometer from TA Instruments equipped with a mobile of cone plane geometry d '' a diameter of 60 mm and an angle of 2 degrees over a range of shear stress from 0.1 Pa to 100 Pa)

By “fatty substance” is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5% and preferably 1% even more preferably 0.1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran ( THF), petrolatum oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil containing no silicon atom (Si) and a "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom.

More particularly, the oils are chosen from non-silicone oils and in particular hydrocarbons and C 6 -C 16 or with more than 16 carbon atoms and in particular alkanes; oils of animal origin; vegetable triglyceride oils; essential oils ; glycerides or fluorinated oils of synthetic origin, fatty alcohols; fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, fatty acid amides and silicone oils.

Preferably, the oils are not oxyalkylenated or glycerol ethers.

Preferably, the oils do not comprise a C2-C3 oxyalkylene unit or a glycerol unit.

Preferably, the oils are not fatty acids which, in salified form, give water-soluble soaps.

The oils which can be used as second ingredient b) in composition A or B in accordance with the invention can be silicones.

The silicones can be volatile or not, cyclic, linear or branched, modified or not by organic groups, having a viscosity of 5.10-6 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25 ° C and preferably 1.10-5 to 1 m2 / s.

Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organo-modified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly (oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter NOLL's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and more particularly still from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name of VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name of VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE ® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 sold by the company UNION CARBIDE, of formula: Γ— D "- D'-D" - D '- | CH, '-1 CH3 I l. with D ": - Si - O - with D ': - Si - O - CH3 CgH., 7

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1, T- (hexa- 2,2,2 ', 2', 3,3'-trimethyl-silyloxy) bis-neopentane; (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to δ.ΙΟ ^ πΤ / ε at 25 ° C. These are, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name " SH 200 "by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 -TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics".

Preference is given to using non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, gums and resins of polydialkylsiloxanes, polyorganosiloxanes modified by the above organofunctional groups and their mixtures.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, non-limiting examples that may be mentioned are the following commercial products: - SILBIONE® oils of series 47 and 70,047 or MIRASIL® oils sold by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70,047 V 500,000; - the oils of the MIRASIL® series sold by the company RHODIA; - oils of the 200 series from the company DOW CORNING such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA.

The compositions A and / or B as defined above can comprise one or more oils, chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid amides and fatty acid esters in the form of oils.

It is recalled that within the meaning of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds can have one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

More specifically, the latter can represent an ester of C1-C10 alcohol and C6-C30 fatty acid such as RC (O) -O-R 'with R representing a C6-C3o alkyl group, linear or branched , C6-C3o alkenyl, linear or branched, comprising one or two unsaturations, and R representing a C1-C10 alkyl group, linear or branched.

Preferably R represents a linear C10-C20 alkyl group and R ’represents a preferably branched C1-C6 alkyl group such as isopropyl myristate.

According to another advantageous variant, the ingredient ii) represents one or more amides of C6-C3o fatty acid and of primary or secondary C1-C10 amine, preferably of primary amine, such as those of formula R ”- C (O) -N (Ra) -R ”'with R” representing a linear or branched C6-C3o alkyl group, linear or branched C6-C3o alkenyl, comprising one or two unsaturations, which may be substituted by a or more hydroxy groups, or (di) (Ci-C6) (alkyl) amino, and R '”representing a C1-C10 alkyl group, linear or branched, Ra representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group as defined for R'". Preferably R ”represents a C14-C20 alkenyl group, Ra represents a hydrogen atom and R '” represents a C1-C6 alkyl group optionally substituted by (di) (Ci-C4) (alkyl) amino such that l oleyl amidopropyl dimethyl amine.

As regards the C6-C16 alkanes, the latter are linear, branched, possibly cyclic. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, dodecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane. Linear or branched hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms can be chosen from paraffin oils, petrolatum, petrolatum oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, squalane, squalene and their mixtures ,

Among the hydrocarbons, there may be mentioned the refined vegetable perhydrosqualene marketed under the name fitoderm by the company Cognis; vegetable squalane sold for example under the name Squalive by the company Biosynthis;

The following compounds may also be mentioned: - a mixture of C15-C16 branched alkanes, for example that which is marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name EMOGREEN L15; - A mixture of linear and / or branched C13-C15 alkanes, for example that which is marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name EMOSMART L15. .Among animal oils we can cite perhydrosqualene.

Among the triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin, mention may be made of liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or also, for example, sunflower, corn, soy, squash, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, macaw, sunflower, castor, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides like those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil.

Among the fluorinated oils, mention may be made of perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3 dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names of "FLUTEC® PC1" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names of "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by the company 3M, or alternatively bromoperfluorooctyle sold under the name "FORALKYL®" by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M.

Among the essential oils contained in the composition of the invention, or may mention those mentioned in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Flavors and Fragrances", Karl-Georg Fahlbusch et al., Published Online: 15 JAN 2003, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a11_141).

Preferably, the oil or oils of the invention are non-silicone. The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil containing no silicon atom (Si) and a "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom.

According to a variant of the invention, the oil or oils are chosen from C 1 -C 6 alkanes, hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms, polydecenes, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol, liquid fatty alcohols or their mixtures.

According to another very particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the oils are chosen from oils of natural origin, more particularly from oils of vegetable origin, preferably chosen from oils of jojoba, babassu, sunflower, olive, coconut, brazil nut, marula, corn, argan, soy, squash, grapeseed, flax, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, coriander, almond, castor, avocado, shea butter oil as well as rapeseed oil, borage, evening primrose, pomegranate, mango, palm, cottonseed and coconut oil; and their mixtures

More particularly, compositions A, and / or B may contain one or more oils of vegetable origin preferably chosen from avocado oil, olive oil, coconut oil, coconut oil, argan oil and sunflower oil; more preferably the oil or oils of the invention are chosen from coconut oils.

According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions A, and / or B can contain one or more oils chosen from C6-C16OU hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms and in particular alkanes; preferably from: - C6-C16 hydrocarbons, these are linear, branched, optionally cyclic, preferably chosen from hexane, dodecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof; linear or branched hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from paraffin oils, petrolatum, petrolatum oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, hemisqualane, squalane, squalene and their mixtures - and their mixtures.

The compositions A and / or B used in the process of the invention preferably comprise one or more oils in an amount inclusive between 1 and 80% by weight, more particularly between 2 and 50% by weight, preferably between 3 and 40% by weight, and more preferably between 25 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said compositions.

The additives :

The compositions A and / or B used in the process of the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing the hair, such as anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, mineral thickening agents or organic, and in particular associative anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymer thickeners, antioxidants, penetration agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents such as for example ceramides, film-forming agents, preserving agents, opacifying agents and mineral or organic thickening agents such as clays.

The above adjuvants are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01 and 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition considered.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition or the poultice useful in the coloring process according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the planned addition (s).

Additional dyes:

The compositions A and / or B used in the coloring process of the invention may also contain one or more additional direct dyes, in particular synthetic or of natural origin, different from the powder of indigofere plant (s) (s) i) and henna ii). The synthetic direct dyes are preferably chosen from those conventionally used in direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes of common use such as neutral, benzene, acid or cationic direct dyes, dyes direct azo neutral, acid or cationic, natural direct dyes, direct dye quinones and in particular neutral anthraquinone, acid or cationic, direct dyes azine, triarylmethanic, indoaminics, methines, styriles, porphyrins, metalloporphyrins, phthalocyanines, methine cyanines, and fluorescent dyes.

Preferably, the natural direct dyes different from indigo i) and henna ii) are chosen from condensed, gallic or ellagic tannins, naphthoquinones (juglone), anthraquinones (emodin, alizarin, carmininic acid, laccaic acid, kermesic acid, ...), isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, flavonoid polyphenols, isoflavonoids, pterocarpanes, neoflavones, orceins.

Preferably, the additional dye (s), different from indigo i) and henna ii) are chosen from dyes of natural origin, preferably chosen from catechin, quercetin, hematin, hematoxylin, brasilin, brasilein, anthraquinones (emodin, alizarin, carmininic acid, laccaic acid, kermesic, ...), isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, polyphenols flavonoids, isoflavonoids, pterocarpanes, neoflavones, orceins, gallic acid, tannic acid and the natural extracts containing them chosen from grape marc, pine bark, green tea, onion, cocoa bean , logwood, redwood and gall nut, and mixtures thereof.

These natural colors can be added as defined compounds, extracts, or parts of plants. Said defined compounds of extracts, or part of plants are preferably in the form of powders, in particular fine powders whose particles have sizes identical to that of the powder of indigofere plant (s) as defined above.

When (s) are (are) present, the direct, natural or synthetic dye (s) different from the powder of indigofere plant (s) i) and henna ii) used in the process of the invention, represents in particular, from 0.001% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the ready-to-use composition and even more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition considered.

Preferably, the compositions of the invention do not contain synthetic direct dyes, i.e. which have no natural occurrence.

Composition A used in the process of the invention can also comprise one or more oxidation bases and / or one or more couplers conventionally used for dyeing keratin fibers. Among the oxidation bases that may be mentioned are para-phenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, bis-para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts

Among these couplers, mention may in particular be made of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts.

When (s) is (are) present, The oxidation base (s) present in the composition (s) are generally present each in an amount between 0.001 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the coloring compositions.

Preferably, the coloring process of the invention does not use an oxidation dye.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pH of the composition A ready for use after mixing with the aqueous composition, preferably with water, containing the ingredients i) and ii), varies from 2 to 9 preferably from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 6.5.

The pH of the ready-to-use composition A can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidic or alkaline agent (s) usually used in dyeing keratin fibers or even by using conventional buffer systems,

Among the acid agents used in the compositions of the invention, there may be mentioned mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid , citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids, preferably the acid is an organic acid such as citric acid.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention the coloring process uses hydrogen peroxide or one or more system (s) generating (s) hydrogen peroxide.

Surfactants

According to a particular embodiment, the coloring process implements one or more surfactant (s).

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the coloring process of the invention uses one or more surfactant (s) in admixture with the ingredients i) and ii), preferably in composition A as defined above, particularly in the form of poultice.

According to another advantageous embodiment, the coloring process of the invention uses one or more surfactant (s) in composition B, in mixture with the alkaline agent (s) chosen from alkanolamines.

Preferably the surfactant (s) are found in composition B as defined above.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention the surfactant (s) are found in composition A, and / or B as defined above in an amount between 0.001 and 20%, particularly between 0.01 and 10% and more particularly between 0.01 and 1% such as 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or B.

Staining method according to the invention

The dyeing process according to the invention implements two separate compositions A and B implemented in two distinct steps a) and a), via their application to keratin fibers.

According to a preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention, composition A is applied first to the keratin fibers; and composition B is applied to the keratin fibers after application of composition A; the method preferably using at least one rinsing step, and / or one washing step between the coloring step using composition A and the treatment step using application of composition B.

Preferably, the coloring process according to the invention implements the following steps: - the first step consists in the preparation of composition A as defined above, in particular in the form of a poultice as defined above comprising water , from powder and / or extract of indigofere plant (s) and / or a coloring extract of indigofere plant (s) i) and henna ii),; - then composition A ready for use as defined above is applied to the keratin fibers and is left on said fibers preferably a minimum time of 30 minutes, preferably a time ranging from 15 minutes to 12 hours, better ranging from 15 at 75 minutes even better from 15 to 60 minutes. then composition B is applied to said fibers comprising one or more alkaline agent (s) chosen from alkanolamine (s), as defined above, and composition B is left on said fibers preferably between 1 and 30 minutes, preferably between 5 to 20 minutes, preferably between 5 to 15 minutes.

Preferably, between the step of applying composition A ready for use and the step of applying composition B, the keratin fibers are rinsed with water until the poultice disappears, and / or washed, in the presence of a shampoo, preferably according to this third step, the fibers are rinsed with water without making a shampoo - at the end of this rinsing and / or washing step, if it is put in use, the keratin fibers can then be either dried or left wet, preferably left wet

Preferably, after the application of composition B, the keratin fibers are washed and / or rinsed.

According to another embodiment of the method according to the invention, composition B as defined above is applied first to the keratin fibers, then composition A ready for use as defined above is applied to the keratin fibers and is left to lay on said fibers preferably as defined above. According to this embodiment, the fibers are preferably also rinsed as described above.

Preferably, at the end of the coloring process according to the invention, the keratin fibers are washed and / or rinsed.

The composition A ready for use preferably comprises water and is in the form of a poultice, it can also comprise one or more oils, and / or one or more organic solvents and cosmetic additives, mixed with the plant powder. (s) indigofere (s) i) and or with henna ii).

According to another embodiment of the invention, the henna and the powder and / or extract of indigofere plant (s) i) is mixed or crumbled with or in an aqueous composition and preferably water to a temperature less than or equal to 100 ° C, in particular between 25 ° C and 70 ° C, better between 25 ° C and 50 ° C

Preferably, the application temperature of composition A varies from room temperature (15 to 25 ° C) to 100 ° C and more particularly from 25 to 50 ° C. It is advantageously possible, after applying the poultice according to the invention, to subject the hair to a heat treatment by heating at a temperature varying from 30 to 150 ° C, better still 30 ° C to 60 ° C. In practice, this operation can be carried out using a hairdressing helmet, a hair dryer, an infrared ray dispenser and other conventional heating devices.

A particular embodiment of the invention relates to a coloring process which is carried out at room temperature (25 ° C). The evaluation of the coloration obtained from keratin fibers can be carried out visually or with a spectrocolorimeter in the CIE L * a * b * system, for example by means of a Minolta CM 3600 spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10 °, specular component included).

In this system L * a * b *; L * represents the clarity of the color, a * indicates the green / red color axis and b * the blue / yellow color axis. The lower the value of L *, the darker, more powerful the coloration.

The lower the value of a * and the greener the color, the higher the value of a * the more the color is red.

The lower the value of b * and the more blue the color, the higher the value of b * the more yellow the color.

The rise in color corresponds to the variation in coloring between the locks of hair, before and after treatment or coloring is defined by (ΔΕ *) according to the following equation:

In this equation, L *, a * and b * represent the values measured on locks of hair after coloring and Lo *, ao * and bo * represent the values measured on locks of uncolored hair. The larger the value of ΔΕ *, the better the rise in color. The stability (AE * stab) of the coloration of the keratin fibers is also evaluated over time, in particular after 3 weeks by measuring the colon coordinates of the keratin fibers and by comparing them to the colon coordinates immediately after implementation of the coloring process according to 'invention. The color difference ΔΕ * between the color at TO and the color after 3 weeks represents the stability of the hair color and is calculated by the following equation:

In this equation, Lo *, ao * and b0 * represent the colorimetric coordinates measured on locks of hair at TO immediately after the implementation of the method and L3s *, a3S * and b * 3s represent the colorimetric coordinates 3 weeks after the implementation of the process. The lower the value of AE * stab, the more stable the coloration.

In the context of the present invention, it is therefore sought to obtain immediately after the coloring process a value of b * as low as possible and / or a value of a * as high as possible. We seek to obtain these results while having an effective color rise (large color rise value) and the most stable coloring over time.

COLORING EXAMPLES

The following compositions were prepared:

The percentages are given by weight relative to 100 g of composition. 1. Coloring step

The following coloring composition is prepared by mixing the natural dye powder with water at 50 ° C. at the time of use in order to produce the following poultice:

The ingredients described i) and ii) are dissolved or dispersed in the relative amounts described in the table above in water at 50 ° C in a bowl. The whole is homogenized with a spoon or spatula.

The poultice obtained is applied to locks of natural hair 90% white hair (BN) at the rate of 10 grams of composition per 1g of hair. The locks are left to stand for 60 min at 33 ° C. under cellophane. At the end of the pause time, the locks are rinsed and washed with Ultra Soft Chamomile Shampoo and then dried. 2. Neutralizing Post-Processing Stage

The following post-treatment compositions B1 and B2 are prepared so as to be at the same pH.

The compositions B1 and B2 are each applied to one of the locks previously prepared at the rate of 4 g of composition per gram of hair and left to stand for 20 min at 40 ° C. under cellophane. At the end of the pause time, the locks are rinsed and washed with Ultra Soft Chamomile Shampoo and then dried.

The color of the locks is then evaluated by colorimetry in the CIE L * a * b * system. Colorimetric results (tinted highlights)

The color of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L * a * b * system, using a

Minolta CM 3600 spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10 °, specular component included).

In this system L * a * b *, L * represents the intensity of the color, a * indicates the axis of color green / red and b * the axis of color blue / yellow.

The rise in color corresponds to the variation in coloring between the locks of hair, before and immediately after implementation of the process are defined by (ΔΕ *) according to the following equation:

In this equation, L *, a * and b * represent the values measured on locks of hair after coloring and Lo *, ao * and b0 * represent the values measured on locks of uncolored hair. The larger the value of ΔΕ *, the better the rise in color. Colorimetric measurements were carried out immediately after the implementation of the process (TO), then after 3 weeks (T 3s). The delta E color difference between the color at TO and the color after 3 weeks represents the stability of the hair color and is calculated by the following equation:

V v J y U z '' □ to V 'v J Λ U X

In this equation, Lo *, ao * and bo * represent the color coordinates measured on locks of hair at TO immediately after the implementation of the method and L3s *, a3s * and b * 3s represent the color coordinates 3 weeks after the implementation of the process.

Delta a (Da *) represents the variation between aO and a3s; delta b (Db *) represents the variation between bO and b3s.

It was observed that on the day of application the hair treated with the composition of the invention B2 is less yellow / green and more aesthetic with the post treatment of the invention than the hair not treated with an alkaline post treatment or else with comparative alkaline treatment B1.

After 3 weeks, we note that the locks treated according to the method of the invention (composition B2), have retained the initial color (TO) This is confirmed colorimetrically by less variation in the colorimetric values of color difference (DE *) or of green / blue reflection (Db *) or even red / yellow (Da *) between the process of the invention and the comparative processes without post treatment or post treatment of the comparative composition B1.

Thus, the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain an esthetic coloring from the day of application and to stabilize the coloring containing henna and indigo from the day of application of the coloring. Without post-treatment, an aesthetic coloring is only obtained several days after application. With an alkaline post treatment different from that of the invention, there is no esthetic coloring, neither at TO nor after 3 weeks. -> The process of the invention therefore makes it possible to accelerate the revelation of the coloring from henna and indigo to obtain the final coloring result from the day of the application and to avoid unsightly intermediate reflections.

Claims (20)

1. A process for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as the hair, in which said fibers are treated in several stages, comprising: at least one dyeing step a) of said fibers using a coloring cosmetic composition A comprising i) powder of indigofere plant (s) and / or a coloring extract of indigofere plant (s), and ii) henna; - At least one step of treatment b) of said fibers using a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more agent (s) alkaline agent (s) iii) chosen from alkanolamines; it being understood that composition A is preferably applied first to the keratinous fibes; and composition B is applied to the keratin fibers after application of composition A; it being understood that the process preferably using at least one rinsing step, and / or one washing step between the coloring step using the composition A and the treatment step using the application of the composition B, preferably a rinsing step. 2. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the indigofere plant (s) is (are) chosen from the species of the genera: - Indigofera such as Indigofera tinctoria, Indigo suffruticosa, Indigofera articulata Indigofera arrecta , Indigofera gerardiana, Indigofera argenta, Indigofera indica, or Indigofera longiracemosa; - Isatis such as Isatis tinctoria; - Polygonum or Persicaria such as Polygonum tinctorium or Persicaria tinctoria; - Wrightia such as Wrightia tinctoria; - Calanthe such as Calanthe veratrifolia; and - Baphicacanthus such as Baphicacanthus cusia. 3. Method according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the indigofere plant (s) is (are) of the genus Indigofera and more particularly is Indigofera tinctoria. 4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition A comprises a powder and / or extract content of indigofere plant (s) varying from 10 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition A, more particularly varying from 20 to 90% by weight, preferably varying from 20 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition A, when said composition A is anhydrous. 5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the henna c) is red henna. 6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition A used in the coloring process comprises a henna content varying from 5 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition A, more particularly varying from 10 to 60% by weight, preferably varying from 15 to 40% by weight, relative to the weight of composition A, when composition A is anhydrous. 7. coloring process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that composition A comprises water, preferably a content preferably ranging from 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 95% by weight , better from 40 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A. 8. Method according to the preceding claim in which the composition A comprises a powder and / or extract content of indigofere plant (s) varying from 0.5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition A, more particularly varying from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably varying from 5 to 30% by weight, when composition A is aqueous. 9. Method according to any one of claims 7 and 8 characterized in that composition A used in the coloring process comprises a henna content varying from 0.5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition A, when composition A is aqueous, more particularly varying from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably varying from 2 to 10% by weight. 10. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ingredients i) and ii) are present in composition A in a weight ratio i) / ii) varying from 0.1 to 95, preferably from 0.5 at 50, better from 1 to 10. 11. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3 and 5 to 10, wherein the composition A has a pH ranging from 2 to 9, preferably from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 6.5. 12. A coloring method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the coloring composition A comprises at least one or more additional dye (s), different from indigo i) and henna ii), chosen ( s) from synthetic direct dyes and dyes of natural origin, preferably chosen from natural dyes, preferably chosen from catechin, quercetin, hematin, hematoxylin, brasiline, brasiléine, anthraquinones (such as emodin, alizarin, carmininic acid, laccaic acid, kermesic), isatin, curcumin, spinulosine, flavonoid polyphenols, isoflavonoides, pterocarpanes, neoflavones, orcines gallic acid, tannic acid and the natural extracts containing them chosen from grape marc, pine bark, green tea, onion, cocoa bean, logwood, red wood and walnuts ga lle, and mixtures thereof. 13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkanolamine (s) (s) iii) is (are) chosen (s) mono-, di- and triethanolamines, preferably from mono-, di- and tri-alkanolmaines, and mixtures thereof. 14. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkanolamine (s) iii) is (are) chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, Ν, Ν-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanol-amine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3 -dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane, or mixtures thereof. 15. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkanolamine (s) iii) is monoethanolamine. 16. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkanolamine (s) iii) are present in composition B in a content varying from 0.001% to 10% by weight of the weight of composition B, more particularly from 0.005%. at 8% by weight, relative to the weight of composition B. 17. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition B comprises water and in that the pH of the composition B is greater than or equal to 7.5 and preferably less than or equal to 12, 0, in particular at a pH ranging from 8.0 to 11.5; 18. A coloring method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition A is applied first to the keratin fibers; and composition B is applied to the keratin fibers after application of composition A. 19. A coloring method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it implements at least one rinsing step, and / or a washing step between the coloring step using composition A and the treatment step using composition B, preferably a rinsing step. 20. Use of a composition B comprising one or more alkaline agent (s) chosen from alkanolamine (s), as defined in any one of the preceding claims for stabilizing the color of the colored fibers from henna and powder and / or indigofere plant extract over time (the day of application) and improve the intensity, the color increase and / or the color fastness.