FR3045341A1 - OXIDIZING COMPOSITION FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATIN FIBERS COMPRISING A FATTY BODY AND OXYETHYLENE SURFACTANTS - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the present invention is a composition for the treatment of keratinous substances, in particular keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: at least one fatty substance in a higher content or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - at least one oxyalkylenated (OA), preferably oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising a number of OA units, preferably from 1 to 9, at least one oxyalkylenated (OA), preferably oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OA units, preferably EO, the weight ratio of the amount of oxyalkylenated (OA) nonionic surfactant (s), preferably oxyethylenated (s) comprising a number of units OA, preferably OE ranging from 1 to 9 on the amount of oxyalkylenated (OA) nonionic surfactant, preferably oxyethylenated (s) comprising at least 10 OA units, preferably EO, being greater than 1, - at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide. The composition in accordance with the invention may be used for coloring, bleaching or permanent deformation of keratin materials, in particular keratinous fibers. It makes it possible to obtain ready-to-use compositions leading to good dyeing, bleaching or permanent deformation properties without degrading the keratin materials, in particular keratinous fibers, and without altering their cosmetic properties.

Description

OXIDIZING COMPOSITION FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATINIC MATERIALS COMPRISING A FATTY BODY AND SURFACTANTS

oxyalkylenated

The subject of the present invention is a composition for the treatment of keratinous substances, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a fatty substance in a content greater than or equal to 10% by weight, an oxyalkylenated (OA), preferably oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising a number of oxyalkylenated units ranging from 1 to 9 and an oxyalkylenated (OA), preferably oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 oxyalkylenated units, in a defined ratio and a chemical oxidizing agent

In cosmetics, in the fields of dyeing, bleaching and the permanent transformation or deformation of keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, oxidizing compositions are used.

Thus, in oxidation dyeing of the hair, oxidizing compositions are mixed with the oxidation dyes (bases and couplers), which are colorless by themselves, to generate colored and coloring compounds by a process of oxidative condensation. Oxidizing compositions are also used in the direct dyeing of hair mixed with certain direct dyes which are colored and dyed to obtain a coloration with a lightening effect of the hair. Among the oxidizing agents conventionally used for dyeing keratinous fibers, mention may be made of hydrogen peroxide or compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis, such as urea peroxide. Persals such as perborates and persulfates can also be used. Hydrogen peroxide is more particularly preferred.

In hair discoloration, the bleaching compositions contain one or more oxidizing agents. Among these oxidizing agents, the most conventionally used are hydrogen peroxide or compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis, such as urea peroxide or persalts such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates, hydrogen peroxide and persulfates being particularly preferred.

These compositions may be aqueous compositions containing alkaline agents (amines or ammonia) which are diluted at the time of use with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide composition.

These compositions can also be formed from anhydrous products which contain alkaline compounds (amines and / or alkali silicates), and a peroxygenated reagent such as persulfates, perborates or percarbonates, ammonium or alkali metals, which are diluted with moment of use with an aqueous composition of hydrogen peroxide.

In permanent deformation of the hair, the disulfide bonds -SS- of the keratin (cystine) are opened, using a composition containing a suitable reducing agent (reduction step), and then, after having rinsed the hair thus treated, the disulfide bonds are subsequently reconstituted by applying, to the hair previously put under tension (hair curlers and others), an oxidizing composition (oxidation stage, also called fixation stage) so as to finally give hair the desired shape. This technique thus makes it possible to achieve either the waving of the hair, or their straightening or their curing. The new form imposed on the hair by a chemical treatment as above is eminently durable over time and resists particularly the action of washing with water or shampoos, and this as opposed to simple conventional techniques of temporary deformation, such as styling.

The oxidizing compositions necessary for the implementation of the fixing step, are most often compositions based on hydrogen peroxide. It seeks to obtain ever more effective compositions, especially in terms of lightening or discoloration while respecting as much as possible the integrity of the keratinous fibers and giving said fibers the best possible cosmetic properties.

For this, it has been proposed oil-rich oxidizing compositions in the form of emulsion, however the incorporation of oil at high levels can cause destabilization of the emulsion.

Moreover, in the cosmetic field, it is always sought to improve the conditioning of the hair, that is to say in particular to improve the properties of smoothing and softness to the touch.

The compositions obtained must, in addition, have good properties of mixing and application, and in particular good rheological properties not to flow, when they are applied, on the face, the scalp, or outside areas that the we propose to treat.

The object of the present invention is to provide novel oxidizing compositions which make it possible to improve the cosmetic properties of keratin materials, in particular keratinous fibers such as the hair, which are stable over time.

This object is achieved with the present invention which relates to a composition for the treatment of keratin materials, and in particular hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: at least one fatty substance, preferably liquid, in a content greater than or equal to at 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one oxyalkylenated (OA), preferably oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising a number of OA units, preferably EO from 1 to 9, at least one oxyakylenated (OA) nonionic surfactant, preferably oxyethylenated (EO) comprising at least 10 OA units, preferably EO, the weight ratio of the amount of oxyakylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising a number of units OA ranging from 1 to 9 on the amount of oxyakylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising at least 10 OA units, being greater than 1, at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide; no.

By "chemical oxidizing agent" according to the invention is meant an oxidizing agent other than oxygen in the air.

When the composition in accordance with the invention is used for dyeing keratinous fibers, good dyeing properties are obtained, in particular intense, powerful, chromatic, low-selective coloring, which makes it possible to provide good coverage of the white hair and to withstand the various attacks that can undergo hair such as shampoos, light, sweat and permanent deformities, without altering the cosmetic properties of keratin fibers.

When the composition according to the present invention is used for the bleaching or lightening of keratinous materials, especially skin or keratinous fibers, it makes it possible to obtain a good lightening effect of the keratin materials without degrading them and without altering their cosmetic properties.

When the composition according to the present invention is used for the permanent deformation of the keratinous fibers, it makes it possible to obtain a satisfactory permanent deformation of these fibers without degrading them and without altering their cosmetic properties.

In addition, the composition according to the invention has good stability over time, especially storage at high temperatures, for example of the order of 45 ° C. The subject of the invention is also a process for treating keratinous substances, in particular keratinous fibers, in particular a process for coloring, decolourising (or brightening) or permanent deformation of keratin materials, in particular keratinous fibers, which implements this oxidizing composition.

Another subject of the invention is the use of this oxidizing composition for the treatment of keratinous substances, in particular keratinous fibers, in particular the coloring, the bleaching or the permanent deformation of the keratin materials, in particular keratinous fibers.

In what follows, unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of the ranges indicated are included in the invention.

By "at least one" is meant one or more.

Oxyalkylenated surfactants

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant (OA) comprising a number of OA units ranging from 1 to 9 and at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant (OA) comprising at least 10 OA units.

The weight ratio, in the composition of the invention, of the amount of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising a number of OA units ranging from 1 to 9 on the amount of nonionic surfactant (s) (s) Oxyalkylenated (s) comprising at least 10 OA units, is greater than 1, preferably greater than or equal to 1.2, better still greater than or equal to 1.5, more preferably greater than or equal to 2.

Preferably, the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants according to the invention are selected from oxyethylenated nonionic surfactants.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising a number of EO units ranging from 1 to 9 and at least one oxyethylenated (EO) nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 EO units.

The weight ratio, in the composition of the invention, of the amount of oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising a number of EO units ranging from 1 to 9 on the amount of nonionic surfactant (s) (s) oxyethylenated (s) comprising at least 10 EO units, is greater than 1, preferably greater than or equal to 1.2, better still greater than or equal to 1.5, more preferably greater than or equal to 2.

This weight ratio can range, for example, from 1.2 to 1.5 to 10, more preferably from 2 to 5.

The oxyethylenated nonionic surfactants comprising a number of EO units ranging from 1 to 9 and the oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactants comprising at least 10 EO units can be chosen from the following categories: oxyethylenated (C 8 -C 24) alkylphenols, Saturated or unsaturated linear or branched, oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, oxyethylenated, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 amides, esters of saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C8-C3o acids and polyethylene glycols, • linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 acid esters, and polyoxyethylenated sorbitol, • oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 EO units and the oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant comprising from 1 to 9 EO units are chosen from C 8 -C 3 fatty alcohol oxyethylenated, preferably C 12 -C 22, more preferably C 14 -C 22 C20, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear such as cetyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, oleocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably stearyl alcohol

An oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant comprising from 1 to 9 EO units is preferably used, oxyethylenated nonionic surfactants comprising from 2 to 8, preferably from 2 to 4, EO units, for example the oxide adducts. ethylene and stearyl alcohol such as stearyl alcohol 2 EO (CTFA name steareth-2),

The oxyethylenated nonionic surfactants comprising at least 10 EO units used in the invention may in particular have a number of oxyethylenated groups ranging from 10 to 50, preferably from 15 to 30 and better still from 15 to 25, such as, for example, addition of ethylene oxide and stearyl alcohol such as 20 stearyl alcohol (CTFA name steareth-20).

The content of nonionic surfactant (s) oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated (s) comprising from 1 to 9 oxyalkylene units, preferably oxyethylenated in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight and better still from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The content of oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated, nonionic surfactants comprising at least 10 oxyalkylene groups, preferably oxyethylenated, in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight. by weight, better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The total amount of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, preferably oxyethylenated, in the composition may range from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight and better still from 3 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the combination of the nonionic surfactant (s) oxyalkylene (s), preferably oxyethylenated (s) comprising at least 10 OA units, preferably EO and surfactant (s) nonionic (s) oxyalkylene (s), preferably oxyethylenated (s) comprising 1 to 9 OA units, preferably EO is the main surfactant system of the composition.

By "main surfactant system" is meant a system which, in its absence, does not lead to the formation of a stable composition.

By "stable" is meant a composition which, after being placed in an oven at 45 ° C for two months, does not exhibit, after return to ambient temperature, phase shift.

According to one particular embodiment, the combination of the at least one oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated, surfactant (s) comprising at least 10 OA units, preferably EO, and at least one surfactant (s). ) nonionic (s) oxyalkylene (s), preferably oxyethylenated (s) comprising 1 to 9 OA units, preferably EO is the only surfactant system of the composition.

By "unique" is meant that any additional surfactant system is present in a content not exceeding 1%, and preferably not exceeding 0.5%. More preferably, "single" denotes a total absence of any other surfactant system.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition comprises a single oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated, nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OA units, preferably EO, and a single oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated, nonionic surfactant comprising from 1 to 9 OA units, preferably EO, as the only surfactant system.

Fat body

The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more fatty compounds, preferably liquid (s) (or oil),

The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility less than 5% and preferably less than 1%, more preferably less than 0%). , 1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as for example chloroform, ethanol, benzene, petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

By "oil" is meant a "fat" which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C), and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1,013.105 Pa).

The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil containing no silicon atom (Si) and a "silicone oil" an oil containing at least one silicon atom.

More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from C 6 -C 16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons having more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, alcohols fatty acids, non-salified fatty acids, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters different from triglycerides, non-silicone waxes, different from solid fatty alcohols and solid synthetic esters, silicones, and mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that for the purposes of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise.

The linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably chosen from paraffin or petroleum jelly oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

With regard to the C6-C16 lower alkanes, the latter are linear, branched, possibly cyclic. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane and isododecane, and mixtures thereof. As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.

Triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or even more particularly from those present in vegetable oils such as for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado jojoba oil, shea butter oil or synthetic triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, and their mixtures.

The fluorinated oils may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PC1" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl®" by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M.

The fatty alcohols that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. There may be mentioned, for example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol and linolenic alcohol. ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol and mixtures thereof.

The fatty acids that can be used in the context of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are advantageously chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid. These fatty acids are the composition of the invention not salified by organic or mineral bases to not give rise to soaps.

Regarding fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohols, different from the previously mentioned triglycerides and vegetable waxes; mention may be made especially of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C 2 -C 26 or branched C 3 -C 26 aliphatic or saturated aliphatic monoferraments or of saturated or unsaturated, linear C 1 -C 26 or branched C 3 -C 26 aliphatic or monohydric alcohols, the total number of carbon of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more preferably greater than or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabiethyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isoketyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso) stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl ricinoleate acetyl; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; , styryl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and mixtures thereof.

Still within the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and of di, tri, tetra or di C2-C26 pentahydroxy.

These include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates and mixtures thereof.

Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristates of alkyls such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also comprise, as a fatty ester, esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 fatty acid sugars. preferably C12-C22. It is recalled that "sugar" is understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives. especially alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise.

The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmito-stearate esters.

More particularly, mono- and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Mention may also be made, by way of examples, of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid sugar: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70 and SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmito-stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% monoester; % di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri-, and tetra. -ester, and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester; the sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE.

The wax or the non-silicone waxes different from the solid fatty alcohols and the solid synthetic esters, are chosen in particular from Carnauba wax, Candelila wax, and Alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, and waxes. vegetable oils such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flower sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as waxes bees, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes, such as the one sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.

The fatty substance (s) do not comprise an oxyalkylenated C2-C3 unit. Preferably they do not contain a glycerol unit. More particularly, the fatty substances are different from the fatty acids.

More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.

Preferably, the fatty substance is a liquid compound at a temperature of 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure, or oil.

According to a preferred variant, the fatty substances are not silicone.

The fatty substances are preferably chosen from C 6 -C 16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons having more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, sodium esters and the like. fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms or mixtures thereof, for example liquid petroleum jelly.

The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least 10% by weight of the total weight of the fatty substance composition, preferably of oil, preferably at least 20% by weight, better still at least 30% by weight and even more preferentially at least 40% by weight.

The fat or fats generally represent from 10 to 80% by weight, preferably from 20 to 70%, more preferably from 25 to 60%, better still from 35 to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. 'invention.

Chemical oxidizing agent

The composition of the invention comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents. The term "chemical oxidizing agent" means an oxidizing agent different from the oxygen in the air.

More particularly, the chemical oxidizing agent (s) is (are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors and percarbonates. The alkaline or alkaline earth metal is preferably the hydrogen peroxide oxidizing agent.

The concentration of chemical oxidizing agents may vary more particularly from 0.1 to 50% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, better still from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises neither dye nor persalt.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium. By cosmetically acceptable medium is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, a medium compatible with keratinous substances, in particular keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair.

The cosmetically acceptable medium of the composition according to the present invention generally comprises water and / or one or more water-soluble organic solvents. As water-soluble organic solvents, mention may be made, for example, of lower C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol; polyols or polyol ethers, such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or its ethers such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and diethylene glycol alkyl ethers such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether; or else glycerol; as well as their mixtures.

The solvents are preferably present in proportions of between 0.1 and 35% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition, and even more preferably between 1 and 40% by weight approximately.

The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise additional compounds conventionally used in cosmetics. These compounds may especially be chosen from thickening or stabilizing polymers, non-silicone conditioning polymers, in particular cationic non-silicone polymers, chelants, and perfumes.

According to one embodiment, the composition comprises a polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide of structure (I) following H- (O-CH2-CH2) a- (O-CH (CH3) -CH2) b- (O-CH 2 -CH 2) a'-OH, wherein a, a 'are from 2 to 150, and b is from 1 to 100 (polyethylene glycol triblock / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol). In the chemical structure described above, preferably a and a 'are from 10 to 130, and b ranges from 20 to 80, and a' ranges from 50 to 130, and b ranges from 30 to 80, and still more preferably from range from 80 to 130 and b ranges from 40 to 80. According to a particular embodiment, a and a 'are identical.

The polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide useful in the composition of the invention preferably has a weight average molecular weight ranging from 250 to 19,000, and better ranging from 1,200 to 15,000, and in particular ranging from 1500 to 10000, and even better from 1500 to 5000.

Advantageously, the polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide has a cloud temperature, at 10 g / l in distilled water, greater than or equal to 20 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 60 ° C. The cloud temperature is measured according to ISO 1065.

As polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide used according to the invention, there may be mentioned polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the names "SYNPERONIC" such as "SYNPERONIC® PE / F32" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 108), "SYNPERONIC® PE / F108" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 338), "SYNPERONIC® PE / L44" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 124), "SYNPERONIC® PE / L42 (INCI name: POLOXAMER 122) ), "SYNPERONIC® PE / F127" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 407), "SYNPERONIC® PE / F88" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 238), "SYNPERONIC® PE / L64" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 184), "SYNPERONIC® PE / F88 "(INCI name: POLOXAMER 238)," SYNPERONIC® PE / F87 "(INCI name: POLOXAMER 237) by CRODA, or" LUTROL® F68 "(INCI name: POLOXAMER 188) by BASF.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the amount of the polycondensate (s) of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide preferably varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight. weight, better from 0.015 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. [0.02 g% in the ex G]

In another embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of thickening polymer.

Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition or additions considered.

The composition according to the invention may be in various forms, such as in the form of cream, gel, milk, lotion, mousse, or in any other form that is suitable for treating keratin materials, in particular keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair. Preferably, it is in the form of a cream or a milk.

The pH of the oxidizing composition according to the invention generally varies from 1.5 to 4.5, and preferably from 2 to 3.5. It can be adjusted by adding acidifying agents such as hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, boric acid, citric acid and phosphoric acid or acidifying agents in the presence of alkaline agents.

Another subject of the invention is a process for treating keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, comprising applying to the keratin fibers an oxidizing composition as defined above.

The oxidizing composition according to the invention may for example be used in a process for dyeing keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair.

The process for dyeing keratinous fibers in accordance with the invention uses a coloring composition comprising, in a support suitable for dyeing keratinous fibers, one or more direct dyes and / or one or more oxidation dyes and an oxidizing composition such that defined above.

According to this method, the dyeing composition is applied to the keratinous fibers, the color being revealed at acidic, neutral or alkaline pH using an oxidizing composition according to the invention which is applied simultaneously or sequentially, with or without intermediate rinsing. .

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the dyeing process according to the invention, at the moment of use, the dyeing composition is mixed with an oxidizing composition according to the invention. The resulting mixture is then applied to the keratin fibers and allowed to stand for about 3 to 50 minutes, preferably about 5 to 30 minutes, after which it is rinsed, washed with shampoo, rinsed again and dried.

The direct dye (s) may be chosen from the direct dyes conventionally used in direct dyeing. By way of examples, these direct dyes are chosen from nitro dyes of the benzene series, azo direct dyes, methine direct dyes, quinone direct dyes, azine direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes and indoamine direct dyes. natural direct dyes. These direct dyes may be nonionic, anionic or cationic in nature.

Among the benzene direct dyes, mention may be made of 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-nitro-4- (p-hydroxyethylamino) -benzene, 1-amino-2-nitro-4- bis (p-hydroxyethyl) -aminobenzene, 1,4-bis (p-hydroxyethylamino) -2-nitro-benzene, 1-p-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis- (p-hydroxyethylamino) -benzene, 1-p-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-amino-benzene, 1-p-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4- (ethyl) (p-hydroxyethyl) -aminobenzene, 1-amino-3-methyl- 4-p-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitro-benzene, 1-amino-2-nitro-4-p-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene, 1,2-diamino-4-nitro-benzene, 1-amino 2-p-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitro-benzene, 1,2-bis (p-hydroxyethylamino) -4-nitro-benzene, 1-amino-2- [tris (hydroxymethyl) methylamino] -5 -Nitro-benzene, 1-hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitro-benzene, 1-hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitro-benzene, 1-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-amino-benzene, 1-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitro-benzene, 1-p-hydroxyethyloxy-2-p-hydroxyethylamino-5-n itro-b enzene, 1-methoxy-2-p-hydoxyethylamine-5-nitro-benzene, 1-p-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 1-p, Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino- 4-nitro-benzene, 1-p-hydroxyethylamino-4-p, y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitro-benzene 1-β, γ-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitro-benzene, 1 -p 4-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitro-benzene, 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitro-benzene, 1-p-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitro-benzene, hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitro-benzene, 1-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitro-benzene, 1-hydroxy-6- [bis- (P-hydroxyethyl) -amino] -3-nitro-benzene, 1-p-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-benzene, 1-hydroxy-4-p-hydroxyethylacino-3-nitro-benzene.

Among the azo direct dyes, mention may be made of the cationic azo dyes described in the patent applications WO 95/15144, WO-95/01772, EP 0 714 954, FR 2 822 696, FR 2 825 702, FR 2 825 625, FR 2 822 698, FR 2 822 693, FR 2 822 694, FR 2 829 926, FR 2 807 650, WO 02/078660, WO 02/100834, WO 02/100369 and FR 2 844 269.

Among these compounds, mention may be made especially of 1,3-dimethyl-2 - [[4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] azo] -1H-imidazolium chloride, 1,3-dimethyl-2 - [(4 1-methyl-4 - [(methylphenylhydrozono) methyl] pyridinium methylsulfate.

Mention may also be made, among the azo direct dyes, of the following dyes, described in the COLOR INDEX INTERNATIONAL 3rd edition: Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Brown 16, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Basic Brown 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9.

There may also be mentioned 1- (4'-aminodiphenylazo) -2-methyl-4bis- (p-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene and 4-hydroxy-3- (2-methoxyphenylazo) -1-naphthalenesulfonic acid. *

Among the quinone direct dyes, mention may be made of the following dyes: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Bkie 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, as well as the following compounds: 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-4-metiylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylaminoanthraquinone, 5-p-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone, 1,4-bis- (P, DY-dihydroxypropylamino) anthraquinone.

Among the azine dyes, mention may be made of the following compounds: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.

Among the triarylmethane dyes, mention may be made of the following compounds: Basic Green 1, Acid Blue 9, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 7, Acid Violet 49, Basic Blue 26, Acid Blue 7.

Among the indoamine dyes, mention may be made of the following compounds: 2-β-hydroxyethlyamino-5- [bis- (P-4'-hydroxyethyl) amino] anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5 (2'-methoxy-4'-amino) anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 3-N (2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy) phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-1,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-N (3'-Chloro-4'-methylamino) phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine, 3- [4'-N- (ethyl, carbamylmethyl) amino] -phenyl- ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine.

Among the natural direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurine, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogalline, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin , curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins. It is also possible to use the extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular poultices or extracts made from henna.

The direct dye (s) are generally present in the dye composition in an amount of between 0.001 and 20% by weight approximately of the total weight of the composition, and even more preferentially between 0.005 and 10% by weight approximately.

The oxidation dye (s) may be chosen from oxidation bases and couplers conventionally used in the field of dyeing. As examples of oxidation bases, there may be mentioned para-phenylenediamines, double bases, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts.

Among the para-phenylenediamines, there may be mentioned, for example, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl para phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, Ν, Ν-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl para phenylenediamine, 4-amino-Ν, Ν-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N, N-bis- (p-hydroxyethyl) para-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis- (p-hydroxyethyl) amino 2- methyl aniline, 4-N, N-bis- (p-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-p-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N- (p-hydroxypropyl) para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl para-phenylenediamine, Ν, Ν-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N- (ethyl, β-hydroxyethyl) para-phenylenediamine, N - (p, y dihydroxypropyl) para-phenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl para-phenylenediamine, 2-p-hydroxyethyloxy para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy para-phenylenediamine, N - (p-methoxyethyl) para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-amino toluene, 3-hydroxy-1- (4'-aminophenyl) pyrrolidine and their salts; addition with an acid.

Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl para-phenylenediamine, 2-p-hydroxyethyl para-phenylenediamine, 2-p-hydroxyethyloxy para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (p-hydroxyethyl) para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro para-phenylenediamine, 2-p-acetylaminoethyloxy para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts with an acid are particularly preferred.

Among the double bases, there may be mentioned, by way of example, bis-phenylalkylenediamines and bis-para-aminophenols.

Among the bis-phenylalkylenediamines, mention may be made, by way of example, of N, N'-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) 1,3-diamino propanol, N N, N'-bis- (p-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- ( p-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-methylaminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (ethyl) N, N ' -bis- (4'-amino, 3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, 1,8-bis (2,5-diamino phenoxy) -3,6-dioxaoctane, and their addition salts with an acid.

Among the para-aminophenols, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluoro phenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4- amino 2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino 2- (p-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4- amino 2-fluoro phenol, and their addition salts with an acid.

Among the ortho-aminophenols, mention may be made, for example, of 2-amino phenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and their addition salts with an acid.

Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned by way of example are pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.

Among the pyridine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described for example in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5-diamino pyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-amino pyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy pyridine, 2- (β-methoxyethyl) amino-3-amino-6-methoxy pyridine, 3,4-diamino pyridine, and their addition salts with an acid. Other pyridinic oxidation bases useful in the present invention are the 3-amino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridines oxidation bases or their addition salts described for example in the patent application FR 2801308. By way of example, mention may be made of pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-acetylamino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-carboxylic acid; 2-methoxy-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamino; (3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) -methanol; 2- (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-yl) -ethanol; 2- (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) -ethanol; (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-yl) -methanol; 3,6-diamino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; 3,4-diamino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3,7-diamine; 7-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3,5-diamine; 5-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2 - [(3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol; 2 - [(3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-4-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-6-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-7-ol, 2 - [(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-yl) oxy] ethanol; as well as their addition salts with an acid or with a base.

Among the pyrimidine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765 such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, , 4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, and pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives such as those mentioned in the patent application FR-A-2750048 and among which mention may be made of pyrazolo [1, 5-a] -pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; 2,5-dimethyl pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine; 2,7-dimethyl pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine; 3-amino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ol; 3-amino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-5-ol; 2- (3-amino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ylamino) ethanol, 2- (7-amino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-ylamino) - ethanol, 2 - [(3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol, 2 - [(7-amino-pyrazolo [ 1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol, 5,6-dimethyl pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 2,6-dimethyl pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 2,5-N, 7-N-7-tetramethyl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] -pyrimidine-3, 7-diamine, 3-amino-5-methyl-7-imidazolylpropylamino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine and their acid addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when tautomeric equilibrium exists.

Among the pyrazole derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described in DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988 as the 4.5 1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (p-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diamino pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5 1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazino pyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methyl-pyrazole, diamino 1- (p-hydroxyethyl) 3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 4,5 1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl 1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4-amino-5- (2'-aminoethyl) amino-1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 3, 5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino 4- (p-hydroxyethyl) amino-1-methyl pyrazole, and their addition salts with an acid. As pyrazole derivatives, mention may also be made of diamino-N, N-dihydropyrazopyrazolones and especially those described in application FR 2 886 136 such as the following compounds and their addition salts.

Of these compounds, the preferred ones are: 2,3-Diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6, 7-Dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol 1-one, 2-Amino-3- (pyrrolidin-1-yl) -6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2- dimethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H, 6H pyridazino [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5- (pyrrolidin-1-yl) -1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4-amino -5- (3-Dimethylamino-pyrrolidin-1-yl) -1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H -pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one. As heterocyclic bases, use will preferably be made of 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol 1-one, 2 - [(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-yl) oxy] ethanol and / or their addition or solvated salts.

The oxidation base (s) are generally present in the dye composition in an amount of between 0.001 and 10% by weight approximately of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.005 and 6% by weight approximately. As examples of couplers, there may be mentioned meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts.

There may be mentioned 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-Ν- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 6-chloro-2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 3-amino phenol, 1, 3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1- (B-hydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2-amino 4- (β hydroxyethylamino) 1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diamino benzene, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 3-ureido aniline, 3-ureido 1-dimethylamino benzene, sesamol, 1-B-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, Γα-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy N -methylindole, 2-amino 3-hydroxy pyridine, 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylene dioxybenzene, 2,6-bis- (β-hydroxyethylamino) toluene and their addition salts with an acid.

The coupler or couplers are generally present in the dye composition in an amount of between 0.001 and 10% by weight approximately of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.005 and 6% by weight approximately. In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen especially from the addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

The oxidizing composition according to the invention can also be used in a process for bleaching or lightening keratinous substances, in particular skin or keratinous fibers, and in particular keratin fibers such as the hair.

The bleaching process according to the invention comprises a step of applying to the keratin materials, in particular the skin or the keratinous fibers of a bleaching composition preferably comprising oxygenated water in an alkaline medium after extemporaneous mixing. Conventionally, a second step of the bleaching process according to the invention is a step of rinsing the keratin materials, in particular keratinous fibers.

The bleaching composition applied to the keratin materials, in particular the keratin fibers, may be obtained by mixing an oxidizing composition according to the invention with an aqueous or anhydrous composition preferably containing one or more alkaline agents. The anhydrous composition may be pulverulent or in paste form and in both cases preferably contains one or more peroxygenated salts, and in particular one or more persulfates. The anhydrous dough composition further contains one or more organic inert liquids.

Another object of the present invention is a method of permanent deformation of keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, using an oxidizing composition as defined above.

According to this process, a reducing composition is applied to the keratinous fibers to be treated, the keratinous fibers being subjected to mechanical stress before, during or after the application of the reducing composition, the fibers are optionally rinsed and applied to the optionally rinsed fibers. the oxidizing composition of the present invention and then optionally rinsing the fibers.

The first step of this process consists in applying to the hair a reducing composition. This application is wicked by wick or globally.

The reducing composition comprises at least one reducing agent, which may in particular be chosen from thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, glycerol thioglycolate, thiolactic acid, or salts of thiolactic or thioglycolic acids. The usual step of tensioning the hair in a form corresponding to the final shape desired for the latter (loops for example) can be implemented by any means, including mechanical, appropriate and known per se to keep under tension hair , such as for example rollers, curlers, combs and the like.

The hair can also be shaped without the aid of external means, simply with the fingers.

Before proceeding to the optional next step of rinsing, it is advisable, in a conventional manner, to let stand for a few minutes, generally between 5 minutes and one hour, preferably between 10 and 30 minutes, the hair on which has been applied the reducing composition, and this so as to allow time for the reducer to act properly on the hair. This waiting phase is preferably carried out at a temperature ranging from 35 ° C to 45 ° C, preferably also protecting the hair with a cup.

In the second optional rinsing step, the hair impregnated with the reducing composition is thoroughly rinsed with an aqueous composition.

Then, in a third step, the hair thus rinsed is applied to the oxidizing composition according to the present invention, for the purpose of fixing the new shape imposed on the hair.

As in the case of the application of the reducing composition, the hair on which the oxidizing composition has been applied is then, in a conventional manner, left in a resting or waiting phase which lasts a few minutes, generally between 3 and 30 minutes. minutes, preferably between 5 and 15 minutes.

If the hair tension is maintained by external means, the hair (hair rollers, curlers and the like) can be removed from the hair before or after the fixation step.

Finally, in the last step of the process according to the invention, optional step also, the hair impregnated with the oxidizing composition is rinsed thoroughly, generally with water.

The present invention also relates to the use for the treatment of keratinous substances, in particular keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, of an oxidizing composition as defined above.

The present invention particularly relates to the use for dyeing keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, of an oxidizing composition as defined above.

The subject of the present invention is also the use for the bleaching or lightening of keratin materials, in particular keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, of an oxidizing composition as defined above. .

The present invention also relates to the use for the permanent deformation of keratin fibers, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, of an oxidizing composition as defined above.

The following examples illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLES

The following compositions are prepared:

They are placed 2 months at 45 ° C and their stability is evaluated visually.

Composition C, which has a nonionic surfactant ratio oxyethylenated 2 EO / nonionic surfactant oxyethylenated 20 EO of 1, is not stable, a phase separation occurs a few days after the stability of the formulation at 45 ° C.

The compositions A, B, D, E, F and G according to the invention are stable after 2 months at 45 ° C.

Claims (18)

1. Composition for the treatment of keratinous substances, in particular keratinous fibers comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: at least one fatty substance in a content greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one oxyalkylenated (OA), preferably oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising a number of OA units, preferably EO ranging from 1 to 9, at least one oxyalkylenated (OA), preferably oxyethylenated (OE) nonionic surfactant comprising at least less than 10 OA units, preferably OE, the weight ratio of the amount of oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated, nonionic surfactant (s) comprising a number of OA units, preferably from 1 to 9 on the amount of oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated, nonionic surfactant (s) comprising at least 10 OA units, preferably EO, being greater than 1, at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide. 2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising at least 10 OA units, preferably EO, and the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant (s) comprising from 1 to 9 OA units, preferably EO units, are chosen. from C 8 -C 30 fatty alcohol oxyethylenated, preferably C 12 -C 22, more preferably C 14 -C 20 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. 3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated, nonionic surfactant or surfactants comprising at least 10 OA units, preferably EO, and the oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated, nonionic surfactant comprising 1 to 9 OA units, preferably EO are chosen oxyethylenated fatty alcohol C4-C20, preferably linear, preferably from cetyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, oleocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, alcohol cetearyl, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably stearyl alcohol. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated, ionic surfactant (s) comprising at least 10 OA units, preferably EO comprises a number of oxyalkylene, preferably oxyethylene, groups ranging from 10 to 50, preferably 15 to 30 and more preferably 15 to 25 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated, nonionic surfactant (s) comprising at least 10 OA units, preferably EO is Steareth-20. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxyalkylene nonionic surfactants or surfactants, preferably oxyethylenated comprising 1 to 9 OA units, preferably EO comprises from 2 to 8, preferably from 2 to 4 OE reasons. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxyalkylene nonionic surfactants, preferably oxyethylenated comprising 1 to 9 OA units, preferably EO is steareth-2. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of nonionic surfactant (s) oxyalkylene (s), preferably oxyethylenated (s) comprising at least 10 OA groups, preferably OE goes from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B). 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the nonionic (s) oxyalylenated (s), preferably oxyethylenated (s) comprising from 1 to 9 OA units, preferably EO in the composition. from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight and better still from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxyalkylene nonionic (s), preferably oxyethylenated content comprising at least 10 oxyalkylene groups, preferably oxyethylene in the composition ranges from 0.1 to 15%. by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the combination of the nonionic surfactant (s) oxyalkylene (s), preferably oxyethylenated (s) comprising at least 10 OA units, preferably EO and oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated, nonionic surfactant (s) comprising from 1 to 9 OA units, preferably EO constitutes the sole surfactant I system of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance is chosen from compounds that are liquid at a temperature of 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure, or oil. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substances are chosen from C6-C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons having more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglycerides. of plant or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, or mixtures thereof. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty substance is chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, preferably liquid petroleum jelly. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of fatty substance, preferably oil, is greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight and more preferably still greater than or equal to 40% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide. 17. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrogen peroxide is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably between 5 and 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. 18. Process for the treatment, in particular of dyeing and / or lightening, of keratinous substances, in particular keratinous fibers, comprising the application to keratin materials, in particular the keratinous fibers of an oxidizing composition as defined in US Pat. any one of claims 1 to 17.