FR2946875A1 - Composition, useful to lighten and/or color human keratin fibers e.g. hair, comprises fatty substances, alkaline agent having ammonia and optionally organic/inorganic bases, surfactants, oxidizing agents, water and optionally dyes - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprises: (a) at least 25 wt.% of one or more fatty substances; (b) an alkaline agent consisting of ammonia and optionally one or more organic or inorganic bases, where the ratio of the molar amount of ammonia to the total molar amount of organic or mineral bases other than ammonia is >= 0.65; (c) one or more surfactants; (d) one or more oxidizing agents; (e) 30-70% of water; and (f) and optionally one or more dyes, in a medium. Independent claims are included for: (1) a two compartment device comprising a first aqueous composition containing one or more fatty substances, alkaline agent consisting of ammonia and optionally one or more organic or mineral bases, in a first compartment, where the first composition optionally comprises one or more dyes and optionally one or more surfactants, and a second composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents, in another compartment, where the compositions of two compartments are intended to be mixed to prepare the composition; and (2) a three compartment device a first composition containing one or more fatty substances, one or more surfactants, in a first compartment, a second composition containing alkaline agent consisting of ammonia and optionally one or more organic or mineral bases, in a second compartment, where the second composition optionally comprises one or more dyes, and a third composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents, in third compartment, where the compositions of the three compartments are to be mixed to prepare the composition.

Description

The present invention relates to a composition for the lightening and / or coloring of human keratinous fibers, which composition comprises compositions for the lightening and / or coloring of human keratinous fibers, and comprising a composition for lightening and / or coloring human keratin fibers comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, ammonia and optionally one or more organic or inorganic bases, one or more oxidizing agents and water.

It also relates to a method for applying said composition. Finally, it relates to multi-compartment devices comprising a first compartment comprising an aqueous composition containing ammonia and at least a second compartment comprising an oxidizing composition containing one or more oxidizing agents.

The processes for lightening human keratin fibers generally consist in using an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, in an alkaline pH condition in the vast majority of cases. This oxidizing agent has the role of degrading the melanin of the hair and of oxidizing the possible precursors of oxidation dye present, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the fibers. Thus, for relatively low lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When greater lightening is desired, it is customary to use peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates for example, in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. Among the methods for staining human keratin fibers, mention may be made of oxidation or permanent staining in lightening conditions. More particularly, this mode of staining uses one or more oxidation dye precursors, usually one or more oxidation bases optionally associated with one or more couplers, to vary the obtained shade, in the presence of an oxidizing agent. in alkaline conditions. The oxidation bases and the couplers are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, combined with oxidizing products, make it possible to access colored species by a process of oxidative condensation.

Also known direct or semi-permanent coloring in lightening conditions. This process consists in applying to the keratinous fibers, direct dyes which are colored and coloring molecules, having an affinity for the fibers, in the presence of an alkaline pH oxidizing agent, to be allowed to pausate to allow the molecules to penetrate, by diffusion, inside the fiber, and then rinsing them off. One of the difficulties of these methods, whether of discoloration or coloration, comes from the fact that they are carried out under alkaline conditions and that the most commonly used alkaline agent is ammonia. Ammonia is particularly advantageous in this type of process. Indeed, it allows one hand to adjust the pH of the composition to an alkaline pH to allow degradation of the oxidizing agent (thus its activation). This agent also causes a swelling of the keratinous fiber, with an opening of the scales, which promotes the penetration of the oxidant and, where appropriate, oxidation dyes, inside the fiber and therefore increases the effectiveness of the reaction.

However, this alkalizing agent is very volatile, which causes inconvenience to the user because of the strong characteristic odor, rather uncomfortable ammonia that emerges during the process. In addition, the amount of ammonia released requires the use of higher levels than necessary to compensate for this loss. This is not without consequences for the user who remains not only bothered by the smell but who may also be faced with greater risks of intolerance, such as irritation of the scalp (tingling). As for the option of purely and simply replacing all or part of the ammonia with one or more other conventional alkalizing agents, it does not lead to compositions as effective as those based on ammonia.

One of the objectives of the present invention is to provide lightening and / or lightening dyeing methods for human keratin fibers, the disadvantages of which are encountered with those using the existing compositions, are substantially reduced, while remaining at least as effective in terms of the lightening and homogeneity of the latter and also even more effective in terms of intensity, chromaticity and or homogeneity of the coloring obtained if dyes are present. It has indeed been found that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to trap at least part of the ammonia, with the consequence of appreciably reducing the inconvenience caused by the presence of this compound (in particular the odor) without impairing the effectiveness. of the composition.

These and other objects are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a composition for lightening and / or coloring human keratin fibers, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: at least 25% by weight of one or more fatty substances (b) an alkaline agent consisting of ammonia and optionally one or more organic or inorganic bases, the ratio of the molar amount of the ammonia present in the ammonia the total molar amount of organic or inorganic bases other than ammonia being greater than or equal to 0.65 (c) one or more surfactants (d) one or more oxidizing agents (e) of 30 to 70% water; (f) and optionally one or more dyes. It also relates to a method for staining human keratinous fibers comprising carrying out the aforementioned composition.

The invention likewise relates to a device with two compartments comprising 10 in one of them, a first aqueous composition containing one or more fatty substances, an alkaline agent consisting of ammonia and optionally one or more organic bases. or mineral, this first composition optionally comprising one or more dyes and optionally one or more surfactants, in the other, a second composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents; the compositions of the two compartments being intended to be mixed to give the composition according to the invention.

The invention finally relates to a device with three compartments comprising, in one of them, a first composition containing one or more fatty substances, one or more surfactants, in another, a second composition containing an alkaline agent consisting of ammonia and optionally one or more organic or inorganic bases, this second composition possibly comprising one or more dyes, and in the latter, a third composition containing one or more oxidizing agents; the compositions of the three compartments being intended to be mixed to give the composition according to the invention.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are within this range.

The human keratinous fibers treated by the process according to the invention are preferably the hair. As indicated previously, the coloring composition according to the invention comprises at least 25% by weight of one or more fatty substances. The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, and preferably at 1% by weight). weight, even more preferably at 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. According to the invention, the fatty substances are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from C 6 -C 16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of animal, vegetable mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol, non-silicone waxes, silicones. It is recalled that for the purposes of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. As regards the C6-C16 lower alkanes, the latter are linear, branched, and possibly cyclic. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane and isodecane.

As oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, which may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene. triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides as sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil. linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, vaseline oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam. fluorinated oils such as perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC PC1" and "FLUTEC PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050" and "PF 5060" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl" by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052" by the company 3M.

The fatty alcohols that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

For example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol may be mentioned; .

The fatty acids that can be used in the context of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are advantageously chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.

With regard to fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohols, advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above; mention may be made in particular of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic or monohydric acid esters and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon of the esters being greater or equal to 6, more preferably greater than or equal to 10. Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isoketyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso) stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl ricinoleate acetyl; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, myristate and cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, mirystyl, stearyl hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Still in the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and di, tri, alcohols. C2-C26 tetra or pentahydroxy. These include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristates of alkyls such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate. The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22, fatty acid sugars. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives. especially alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose. The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. These esters may be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate esters.

More particularly, the mono- and di-esters are used, and especially the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose. By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate. Mention may also be made, by way of examples, of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid sugar: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70, SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmito-stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% monoester; % di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri-, and tetra. -ester, and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester; the sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft PSE.

The wax or the non-silicone waxes are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelila wax, and alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, wax of rice, hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellina) ); other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes, such as the one sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.

The silicones that can be used in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are volatile or cyclic, linear or branched, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or not with organic groups, having a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. C and preferably 1.10-5 to 1 m2 / s. The silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly (oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups. Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBONE 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBONE 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide, of the formula: cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '- (hexa-2,2,2') 2 ', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bisneopentane; (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200 "by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics".

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the above organofunctional groups and mixtures thereof are preferably used. These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to the ASTM 445 Appendix C standard. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: SILBONE oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, 70,047 V 500,000 oil; oils of the MIRASIL series marketed by RHODIA; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s; ## STR3 ## with VISCASIL oils of GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) of GENERAL ELECTRIC, mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol. (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series of the company RHODIA In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1 -C20) Siloxanes The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are, in particular, polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. The solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils and polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PP) oils. MS), isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or mixtures thereof. More particularly useful products according to the invention are mixtures such as: - mixtures formed from an end-hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such that the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company Dow Corning; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil. The organopolysiloxane resins that can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R 2 SiO 2/2, R 3 SiO 1/2, RSiO 3 / 2 and SiO4 / 2 wherein R represents an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl. Among these resins may be mentioned the product marketed under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu. The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group. In addition to the silicones described above, the organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include by way of example the products sold under the following names: the SILBONE oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; . the RHODORSIL 70 633 and 763 RHODIA series of oils; . DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; . silicones of the PK series from BAYER, such as the product PK20; . silicones of the PN and PH series of BAYER, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; . certain oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C 6 -alkyl groups; C24 such as the products called dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE and alkyl (C12) -methicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200; substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT.

Preferably, the fatty substances do not comprise an oxyalkylenated C2-C3 unit or a glycerolated unit.

More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. Preferably, the fatty substance is a liquid compound at a temperature of 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure.

The fatty substances are preferably chosen from C 6 -C 16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, silicones, or their mixtures.

Preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, C6-C16 lower alkanes, polydecenes, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, or mixtures thereof. Better still, the fatty substance is chosen from liquid petrolatum and lower alkanes C6-C16, polydecenes.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least 25% by weight of fatty substances. The composition according to the invention more particularly has a fat content ranging from 25 to 80% by weight, preferably from 25 to 65% by weight, still more advantageously from 30 to 55% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more surfactants. Preferably, the surfactant or surfactants are chosen from nonionic surfactants or from anionic surfactants.

The anionic surfactants are more especially chosen from salts (in particular salts of alkali metals, in particular of sodium, ammonium salts, amine salts, salts of aminoalcohols or salts of alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium) of the compounds. the following: alkylsulfates, alkylethersulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylaryl polyethersulfates, monoglycerides sulfates; alkylsulphonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulphonates, α-olefin-sulphonates, paraffin-sulphonates; alkylphosphates, alkyl ether phosphates; alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates; alkylsulfosuccinamates; alkylsulfoacetates; acylsarcosinates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates; salts of fatty acids such as oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic or stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; Salts of alkyl D galactoside uronic acids; the acyl lactylates, the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts, the polyoxyalkylenated alkylarylether carboxylic acids and the polyoxyalkylenated alkylamidoether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; - and their mixtures. It should be noted that the alkyl or acyl radical of these various compounds advantageously comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.

The nonionic surfactants are more particularly chosen from mono or polyoxyalkylenated, mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated units, oxypropylene, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated.

By way of examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of: • oxyalkylenated (C 8 -C 24) alkyl phenols, • linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C 8 -C 30 saturated or non-saturated alcohols, • C 8 amides, -C30, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated, • esters of C8-C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols, • esters of C8-C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated , linear or branched, and polyoxyethylenated sorbitol, • oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, • condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, among others, alone or in mixtures. Surfactants having a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene of between 1 and 100, more particularly between 2 and 50, preferably between 2 and 30. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants do not comprise oxypropylene units.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated C 8 -C 30 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 acid esters, and polyoxyethylenated sorbitol esters comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide.

By way of example of mono- or poly-glycerolated nonionic surfactants, the C 8 -C 40 mono- or polyglycerolated alcohols are preferably used. In particular, mono- or poly-glycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols correspond to the following formula: ## STR2 ## in which R represents a linear or branched C 8 -C 8 alkyl or alkenyl radical; -C40, preferably C8-C30, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10. By way of example of compounds that are suitable in the context of the invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauric alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleic alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleic alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol. The alcohol can be a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that in a commercial product several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols can coexist as a mixture. Among the mono- or poly-glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the C 8 / C alcohol, one mole of glycerol, the C 1 -C 12 alcohol with 1 mole of glycerol and the C 12 alcohol. to 1.5 moles of glycerol.

Preferably, the surfactant (s) present in the composition are chosen from nonionic surfactants. The content of surfactant (s) in the composition is more particularly from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more oxidizing agents. More particularly, the oxidizing agent (s) is (are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, for example alkali metal persulfates, perborates and percarbonates, or alkaline earth metals, as well as peracids and their precursors. Advantageously, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide. The content of oxidizing agent (s) represents more particularly from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. The composition of the invention comprises ammonia (NH 4 OH) optionally combined with one or more organic or inorganic bases. The mineral base (s) (that is to say the mineral alkalising agent (s)) are preferably chosen from alkaline carbonates or bicarbonates, such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates, and hydroxides. The organic base (s) (i.e. the organic basifying agent (s)) are preferably chosen from organic amines whose pKb at 25 ° C. is less than 12. and preferably less than 10, still more preferably less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the highest basicity function.

The organic alkalinizing agent (s) are, for example, chosen from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and compounds of the following formula (I): ## STR2 ## in which W is a C1-C6 alkylene radical optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl or C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, C1-C6 aminoalkyl radical. Examples of such amines include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diaminopropanol, spermine and spermidine.

By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals. Alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention. Among compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino -2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane.

More particularly, the amino acids that can be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from carboxylic, sulphonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions. Amino acids can be in neutral or ionic form. As amino acids that may be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine and cysteine. , glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.

Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (II): ## STR2 ## where R denotes a group chosen from: ## STR2 ## The compounds corresponding to the formula (II) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline.

The organic amine may also be chosen from heterocyclic organic amines. In addition to the histidine already mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. .

The organic amine may also be selected from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of carnosine, anserin and whale.

The organic amine is selected from compounds having a guanidine function. As amine amines of this type which can be used in the present invention, mention may in addition be made of the arginine already mentioned as amino acid, creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1, 1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2 - ([amino (imino) methyl] amino) ethane- 1-sulfonic acid.

Preferably, the organic amine present in the composition of the invention is an alkanolamine. Even more preferentially, the organic amine is monoethanolamine. The concentration of inorganic or organic bases, if they are present, is more particularly from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 1, 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

When ammonia is combined with one or more organic or inorganic bases, the ratio of the molar amount of ammonia present in ammonia to the total molar quantity of organic or inorganic bases other than ammonia is greater or equal to 0.65. Preferably this ratio ranges from 0.65 to 200, more preferably from 0.8 to 100, still more preferably from 1 to 80, and most preferably from 2 to 50.

Furthermore, according to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of fatty substance / ammonia (expressed as ammonia) is greater than or equal to 10, more particularly ranging from 10 to 200, preferably ranging from 15 to 125, and even more preferably ranging from 20 to 100.

One of the variants of the invention is to use ammonia in the absence of alkanolamine and even more particularly without monoethanolamine.

One embodiment of this variant is to use ammonia as the only alkalizing agent.

The concentration of ammonia, expressed as ammonia NH 3, is more particularly from 0.05 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 1.8% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

Ammonia may in particular be used in the compositions of the invention in the form of aqueous solutions containing from 15 to 30% by weight of ammonia.

The compositions of the invention also contain from 30 to 70% by weight of water, relative to the weight of the composition. More particularly, the water content is from 35% to 65% by weight, and preferably from 38% to 60% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more oxidation dyes. The oxidation dyes are generally chosen from one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more couplers. By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts. Among the paraphenylenediamines, there may be mentioned, for example, para-phenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N, N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N, N- bis - ([3-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis (13-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis- (13-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-13-hydroxyethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N- (13-hydroxypropyl) -paraphenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N- (ethyl, [3-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, N - ((3, y-dihydroxypropyl) paraphenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) paraphenylenediamine, N-phenyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-13-hydroxyethyloxy paraphenylenediamine, 2-13-acetylaminoethyloxy para-phenylenediamine, N- (13-methoxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 4- aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl paraphenylenediamine, 2- (3-hydroxyethylamino-5-amino-toluene, 3-hydroxy-1- (4'-aminophenyl) pyrrolidine and their addition salts with an acid. Among the paraphenylenediamines mentioned above, paraphenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-isopropyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-13-hydroxyethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2- [3-hydroxyethyloxy paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2, 6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (13-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2- [3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts with a acid are particularly preferred. Among the bis-phenylalkylenediamines, mention may be made, by way of example, of N, N'-bis- (13-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) 1,3-diamino propanol, N N, N'-bis- (13-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- ( 13-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- (4-methylaminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (ethyl) N, N ' -bis- (4'-amino, 3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, 1,8-bis (2,5-diamino phenoxy) -3,6-dioxaoctane, and their addition salts. Among para-aminophenols, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluoro phenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4- amino 3-hydroxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- hydroxyethyl aminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluoro phenol, and their addition salts with an acid. Among the ortho-aminophenols, mention may be made, for example, of 2-amino phenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and their addition salts. Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned by way of example are pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives. Among the pyridine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described for example in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5-diamino pyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-amino pyridine, 3,4-diamino pyridine, and their addition salts.

Other pyridinic oxidation bases useful in the present invention are the 3-amino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridines oxidation bases or their addition salts described for example in the patent application FR 2801308. By way of example, mention may be made of pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-acetylamino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-carboxylic acid; 2-methoxy-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamino; (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) -methanol; 2- (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-yl) -ethanol; 2- (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) -ethanol; (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-yl) -methanol; 3,6-diamino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; 3,4-diamino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3,7-diamine; 7-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3,5-diamine; 5-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2 - [(3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol; 2 - [(3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-4-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-6-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-ol; as well as their addition salts. Among the pyrimidine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765 such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2 , 4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and tautomeric forms, when tautomeric equilibrium exists. Among the pyrazole derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described in DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988 as the 4.5 1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1 - ([3-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diamino pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4, 5-diamino 1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazino pyrazole, 1-benzyl 4,5-diamino-3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methyl pyrazole, 4 5-diamino 1 - ([3-hydroxyethyl) 3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3- meth 1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4-amino 5- (2'-aminoethyl) amino 1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 1-methyl 3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino 4 - ([3-hydroxyethyl) amino-1-methyl pyrazole, and their addition salts. It is also possible to use 4-5-diamino-1 - ([3-methoxyethyl) pyrazole. Preferably, a 4,5-diaminopyrazole and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-1 - ([3-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and / or one of its salts will be used.

As pyrazole derivatives, mention may also be made of diamino N, N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and especially those described in application FR-A-2 886 136 such as the following compounds and their addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6 7-Dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] ] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3- (pyrrolidin-1) -yl) -6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-yl one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1,2-dihydro- pyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino 6,6-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H, 6H-pyridazino [1, 2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5- (pyrrolidin-1-yl) -1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5- (3) -diméthylam Ino-pyrrolidin-1-yl) -1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [ 1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one.

It will be preferred to use 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one and / or a salt thereof. As heterocyclic bases, use will preferably be made of 4,5-diamino-1 - ([3-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2 a] pyrazol-1-one and / or a salt thereof.

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more couplers advantageously chosen from those conventionally used for dyeing keratinous fibers. Among these couplers, there may be mentioned meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts. By way of example, mention may be made of 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene and 2,4-diamino-1- hydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2-amino 4- (β-hydroxyethylamino) 1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diamino benzene, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 3-ureido aniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylamino benzene, sesamol, 1-R-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N- (R-hydroxyethyl) amino-3 , 4-methylene dioxybenzene, 2,6-bis- (3-hydroxyethylamino) toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazole-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methyl pyrazole-5-one, 2,6-dimethyl pyrazolo [1,5-b] -1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl [3,2-c] -1, 2,4-triazole, 6-methyl pyrazolo [ 1,5-a] -benzimidazole, their addition salts with an acid, and their mixtures. In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers which can be used in the context of the invention are especially chosen from acid addition salts such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.

The oxidation base (s) each advantageously represent from 0.0001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The content of the coupler (s), if they are (are) present, are each advantageously from 0.0001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more direct dyes, synthetic or natural, chosen from ionic or nonionic species, preferably cationic or nonionic. As examples of suitable direct dyes, mention may be made of azo direct dyes; methinic; carbonyls; azinic; nitro (hetero) aryl; tri- (hetero) aryl methanes; porphyrins; phthalocyanines and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures. More particularly, the azo dyes comprise a function -N = N- whose two nitrogen atoms are not simultaneously engaged in a ring. However, it is not excluded that one of the two nitrogen atoms of the sequence -N = N- is engaged in a cycle.

The dyes of the family of methines are more particularly compounds comprising at least one sequence chosen from> C = C <and -N = C <whose two atoms are not simultaneously engaged in a ring. It is however specified that one of the nitrogen or carbon atoms of the chains can be engaged in a cycle. More particularly, the dyes of the methine family are derived from true methine-type compounds (comprising one or more -C = C-above-mentioned sequences); azomethine (comprising at least one or more -C = N- chains) with, for example, azacabocyanines and their isomers, diazacarbocyanines and their isomers, tetraazacarbocyanines; mono- and di-arylmethane; indoamines (or diphenylamines); indophenols; indoanilines.

As regards the dyes of the carbonyl family, mention may be made, for example, of the dyes chosen from acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone, pyranthrone, pyrazolanthrone, pyrimidinoanthrone, flavanthrone, idanthrone, flavone, (iso) violanthrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazolone, isoquinolinone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, indigo, thioindigo, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine, diketopyrrolopyrrole, coumarin.

As regards the dyes of the family of azines, there may be mentioned in particular azine, xanthene, thioxanthene, fluorindine, acridine, (di) oxazine, (di) thiazine, pyronine. The nitro (hetero) aromatic dyes are more particularly nitrobenzene or nitro pyridinic direct dyes.

With regard to porphyrin or phthalocyanine dyes, it is possible to use cationic or non-cationic compounds, optionally comprising one or more metals or metal ions, for example alkali and alkaline earth metals, zinc and silicon. Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from nitro dyes of the benzene series; azo; azomethines with diazacarbocyanines and their isomers, tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines); anthraquinone direct dyes; triarylmethane direct dyes; alone or in mixtures. Among the natural direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurine, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogalline, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin , curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins. It is also possible to use the extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular poultices or extracts made from henna. When present, the direct dye (s) more particularly represent from 0.0001 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight.

The composition of the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing hair, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; mineral thickeners, and in particular fillers such as clays, talc; organic thickeners, in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestering agents; perfumes ; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; preservatives; opacifying agents. The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. The composition of the invention may optionally comprise one or more organic solvents. Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

The solvent or solvents, if present, represent a content usually ranging from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a gel or a cream. The pH of the composition according to the invention is advantageously between 3 and 12, preferably between 5 and 11. Preferably between 7 and 11 inclusive. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents usually used for dyeing keratin fibers or else using conventional buffer systems. The alkaline agents are ammonia and optionally the organic or inorganic bases described above. Acidifying agents include, for example, inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as tartaric acid, citric acid, acid lactic acid, or sulfonic acids.

The composition of the invention may be obtained by mixing at least two different compositions, or even three, or possibly more than three, different compositions. One or more of the compositions leading by mixing to the composition of the invention may be anhydrous. Note that the composition according to the invention is prepared just before its application to human keratin fibers.

According to a first variant, the composition according to the invention is obtained by mixing just before the application on human keratin fibers, a first aqueous composition comprising one or more fatty substances, an alkaline agent consisting of ammonia and optionally one or a plurality of organic or inorganic bases, this first composition optionally comprising one or more dyes and optionally one or more surfactants, and a second composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents; the two aforementioned compositions being intended to be mixed to give the composition according to the invention with its characteristics described above. ,.

According to a second variant of the invention, the composition according to the invention is obtained by mixing a first composition comprising one or more fatty substances, one or more surfactants, a second composition comprising an alkaline agent consisting of ammonia and optionally one or more organic or inorganic bases, this second composition optionally comprising one or more dyes, and a third composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents; the three aforementioned compositions being intended to be mixed to give the composition according to the invention with its characteristics described above, just before application to human keratin fibers. The first composition may in particular be anhydrous.

According to the invention, an anhydrous composition has a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, and even more particularly less than 1% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition. It should be noted that the water may also be in the form of bound water, such as the water of crystallization of the salts or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in the production of the compositions according to the invention.

The ingredients of the aforementioned compositions and their contents are determined according to the characteristics detailed previously for the final composition according to the invention.

The invention also relates to a device with two compartments comprising in one of them, a first aqueous composition containing one or more fatty substances, an alkaline agent consisting of ammonia and optionally one or more organic or inorganic bases, this first composition optionally comprising one or more dyes and optionally one or more surfactants, in the other, a second composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents; the compositions of the two compartments being intended to be mixed to give the composition according to the invention, just before application to human keratin fibers.

The invention finally relates to a device with three compartments comprising in one of them, a first composition containing one or more fatty substances, one or more surfactants, in another, a second composition containing an alkaline agent consisting of ammonia. and optionally one or more organic or inorganic bases, this second composition optionally comprising one or more dyes, and in a third, a third composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents; the compositions of the three compartments being intended to be mixed to give the composition according to the invention, just before application to human keratin fibers.

In each of the above-mentioned variants and devices, the oxidizing composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.

It may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed previously; the latter more particularly, when present, from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition, and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight. The oxidizing composition also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, for example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids. Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when aqueous, is less than 7.

Preferably, the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which varies, more particularly, from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more particularly from 0.5 to 20% by weight. by weight, and even more preferably between 1 and 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.

The dyeing process according to the invention therefore consists in applying the composition according to the invention to human keratin fibers, dry or wet. The composition is then left in place for a period usually ranging from one minute to one hour, preferably from 5 minutes to 30 minutes.

The temperature during the process is typically between room temperature (between 15 and 25 ° C) and 80 ° C, preferably between room temperature and 60 ° C. At the end of the treatment, the human keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or allowed to dry.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLE I The following compositions are prepared (the amounts are expressed in g% of active ingredients)

Composition 1 Disteardimonium hectorite (Bentone 38 VCG) 3 Octyldodecanol 11.5 Glycol Distearate 8 Vaseline Oil 64.5 Propylene Carbonate 1 Laureth-2 1 Polysorbate 21 11 Compositions 2, 2 'or 2 "2 2' 2" Pentasodium pentetate 1 1 Sodium metabisulfite 0.7 0.7 Ammonia at 20% ammonia 30 20 Monoethanolamine - 3 - - - 7.5 Hydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol 250 HHR, Aqualon) 1.5 1.5 Hexylene glycol 3 3 Dipropylene glycol 3 3 Ethanol 8.25 8.25 Propylene Glycol 6.2 6.2 Ascorbic acid 0.25 0.25 water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Composition 3 Pentasodium pentetate 0.15 Hydrogen peroxide (50% aqueous solution) 12 Sodium stannate 0 , 04 Phosphoric acid Qs pH 2.2 Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 0.03 Vaseline oil Polycondensate tetramethyl hexamethylenediamine / dichloro 1,3-0,1 propylene (40% aqueous solution, Hexadimethrin chloride) Polydimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride (aqueous 40 0.2 unstabilized, Polyquaternium-6) Glycerin 0.5 Alcoo cetylstearyl (C16 / C18 30/70 - NAFOL 1618F) 8 Oxyethylenated cetylstearyl alcohol (33EE) 3 Oxyethylene rapeseed acid amide (40E) 1,2 Vitamin E: DL-α-tocopherol 0.1 water Qs 100 Method of Application The three compositions detailed above are mixed at the time of use in the following proportions: * 10 g of the composition 1 * 4 g of the composition 2 or the composition 2 'or the composition 2 " * 16 g of the composition 3. The resulting mixture is then applied to strands of brown hair, at a rate of 10 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.

The mixture is left at room temperature for 30 minutes. The hair is then rinsed, washed with standard shampoo and dried. A very good lightening effect is obtained on the locks.

EXAMPLE 2 The following compositions are prepared (the quantities are expressed in g% of active ingredients)

Composition 1 Disteardimonium hectorite (Bentone 38 VCG) 3 Octyldodecanol 11.5 Glycol Distearate 8 Vaseline Oil 64.5 Propylene Carbonate 1 Laureth-2 1 Polysorbate 21 11 Composition 2 Pentasodium pentetate 1 Sodium metabisulfite 0.7 Ammonia 20% Ammonia 5 Toluene-2,5-diamine 2,25 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol hydrochloride 0.05 Resorcinol 2 m-aminophenol 0.36 Hydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol 250 HHR, Aqualon) 1.5 Hexylene glycol 3 Dipropylene glycol 320 Ethanol 8.25 Propylene glycol 6.2 Ascorbic acid 0.25 water Qsp 100 Composition 3 Pentasodium pentetate 0.15 Hydrogen peroxide (50% aqueous solution) 12 Sodium stannate 0.04 Phosphoric acid Qs pH 2.2 Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 0.03 Vaseline oil Polycondensate tetramethyl hexamethylenediamine / 1,3-dichloro-propylene dichloro (40% aqueous solution; Hexadimethrin chloride) Polydimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride (0.2% non-stabilized aqueous solution, Polyquaternium-6) ycerin 0.5 Cetylstearyl alcohol (C16 / C18 30/70 to NAFOL 1618F) 8 Cetylstearyl alcohol oxyethylenated (33E) 3 Amide of rapeseed acids oxyethylene (40E) 1,2 Vitamin E: DL-α-tocopherol 0, 1 water Qsp 100 Mode of application The three compositions detailed above are mixed at the time of use in the following proportions: * 10 g of the composition 1 * 4 g of the composition 2 * 16 g of the composition 3.

The resulting mixture is then applied to hair strands natural to 90% white, at a rate of 10 g of mixture per 1 g of hair. The mixture is left at room temperature for 30 minutes. The hair is then rinsed, washed with standard shampoo and dried. We obtain light brown locks (visual evaluation).

Claims (17)

REVENDICATIONS1. Composition for lightening and / or coloring human keratin fibers, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least 25% by weight of one or more fatty substances b) an alkaline agent consisting of ammonia and optionally one or more organic or inorganic bases, the ratio of the molar amount of the ammonia present in the ammonia to the total molar amount of the organic or inorganic bases other than ammonia being greater than or equal to 0.65 c) one or more surfactants d) one or more oxidizing agents e) 30 to 70% water; f) and optionally one or more dyes. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the one or more fatty substances are chosen from C6-C16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of animal origin, vegetable mineral or synthetic, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol, non-silicone waxes, silicones. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance or bodies are liquid at a temperature of 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance or fats are chosen from liquid petrolatum, C6-C16 lower alkanes, polydecenes and, fatty acid esters and / or or liquid fatty alcohol, or mixtures thereof. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fat content varies from 25 to 80% by weight, preferably from 25 to 65% by weight, more particularly from 30 to 55% by weight. relative to the weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more nonionic surfactants, more particularly chosen from mono- or polyoxyalkylenated, mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of surfactants represents from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. . 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the inorganic or organic base is an alkanolamine, preferably chosen from 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, monoethanolamine or mixtures thereof. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ammonia concentration, expressed as ammonia NH3, preferably represents from 0.05 to 3% by weight, more particularly from 0.1 to 2% and more. preferably from 0.2 to 1.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that when the ammonia is combined with one or more organic or inorganic bases, the ratio of the molar amount of the ammonia present in the ammonia to the amount total molar organic or inorganic bases other than ammonia, ranges from 0.65 to 200, preferably from 0.8 to 100, more particularly from 1 to 80, more preferably from 2 to 50. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it does not contain alkanolamine, and preferably ammonia is the only alkalizing agent. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, for example persulfates. , perborates and percarbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, as well as peracids and their precursors, the oxidizing agent preferably being hydrogen peroxide. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water content varies from 35% to 65% by weight, preferably from 38% to 60% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is obtained by mixing at least two different compositions, or even three, or possibly more than three different compositions, at least one of which may be anhydrous. 15. Process for lightening and / or coloring human keratin fibers, characterized in that a composition as described according to any one of Claims 1 to 16 is applied to said keratinous fibers. 16. A two-compartment device comprising in a first compartment, a first aqueous composition containing one or more fatty substances, an alkaline agent consisting of ammonia and optionally one or more organic or inorganic bases, this first composition optionally comprising one or more dyes and optionally one or more surfactants, in the other a second composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents; the compositions of the two compartments being intended to be mixed to give the composition according to one of claims 1 to 13. 17. A three-compartment device comprising in one, a first composition containing one or more fatty substances, one or more surfactants, in another, a second composition containing an alkaline agent consisting of ammonia and optionally one or more organic or inorganic bases, this second composition optionally comprising one or more dyes, and in a third, a third composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents; the compositions of the three compartments being intended to be mixed to give the composition according to one of claims 1 to 13.