FR2948875A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARTICULAR SILICONE COPOLYMER, A VOLATILE SOLVENT AND METALLIC PARTICLES - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratinous fibers comprising one or more copolymers based on silicone resin and fluid silicone, one or more volatile solvents, and one or more metal particles. Thus, on the keratin fibers, sheathings are obtained making it possible to obtain particularly aesthetic colored sheathings on hair.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARTICULAR SILICONE COPOLYMER, A VOLATILE SOLVENT AND METALLIC PARTICLES

The subject of the present invention is a dyeing composition for keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, as well as a method for dyeing keratin fibers using this composition. It is known to produce sheathings on hair comprising pigments, these pigments being thus used in admixture with film-forming polymers such as particular silicone copolymers based on silicone resin and fluid silicone, better known under the name of BioPSA. These copolymers are described in particular in patent applications WO 03/026596, WO 2004/073626, WO 2007/051505 and WO 2007/051506 for various cosmetic applications such as the application to hair, nails, skin.

When these polymers are used in admixture with pigments, generally visible coloration is obtained, regardless of the initial color of the hair. And this without prior discoloration of the hair. The presence of these pigments, in particular nacres, makes it possible to obtain chromatic and visible coloration on all types of hair. However, the coloration obtained is not always sufficiently visible and predictable. In addition, with conventional pigments, some shades are very difficult to obtain, especially in the blond. Thus, the object of the present invention is to develop sheathings comprising a colored species which makes it possible to obtain a wide range of intense and / or chromatic colorings and without resorting to a fading step. This object is achieved with the present invention which relates to a composition for treating keratinous fibers comprising one or more copolymers based on silicone resin and fluid silicone, one or more volatile solvents, and one or more metal particles comprising more than 80% of metals. The subject of the invention is also a process for dyeing keratinous fibers in order to obtain an intense color and / or chromatic effect. Another subject of the invention is the use of this composition for obtaining This cladding makes it possible to obtain intense and / or chromatic coloring on the hair, which remains after shampooing while preserving the physical qualities of the keratin fiber, since it makes it possible to obtain permanent colorations. without the use of oxidizing agents that can degrade the hair. In what follows, unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of the ranges indicated are included in the invention.

Copolymer Based on Silicone Resin and Silicone Silicone The silicone copolymer defined according to the invention is derived from the reaction between a silicone resin and a fluid silicone. Such copolymers are described, for example, in Silicone Pressure Sensitive Adhesive, Sobieski and Tangney, Handbook of Pressure Sensitive Adhesive Technology (D. Satas Ed.), Von Nostrand Reinhold, New York. In the copolymer, the silicone resin is present at a level of between 45 and 75% (based on the total weight of silicone) and the fluid silicone is present at a level of between 25 and 55%, with the sum of the percentages of silicone resin and fluid silicone which is equal to 100. Preferably, the silicone resin is present at a level of between 55 and 65% (based on the total weight of silicone) and the fluid silicone is present at a rate between 35 and 45%, with the sum of the percentages of silicone resin and fluid silicone which is equal to 100. Preferably, the silicone resin according to the invention is the condensation product of SiO 2 groups and R 3 groups. (SiO) 112 (triorganosilyl) for which each R group is independently selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl or vinyl, and for which the ratio of the SiO 2 functions to the R 3 (SiO) 112 functions of the silicone resin is has from 0.6 to 0.9. Triorganosilyl groups useful for forming the silicone resin may be trimethylsilyl, triethylsilyl, methylmethylpropylsilyl, dimethylvinylsilyl and mixtures thereof. The trimethylsilyl group is preferred in the context of the invention. Preferably, the fluid silicone according to the invention is a terminal OH functional diorganopolysiloxane having a viscosity of between 100 and 100,000 cst at 25 ° C., for which the substituents of the diorganopolysiloxane are independently selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl or vinyl. The diorganopolysiloxanes are preferably linear polymers. Examples of diorganopolysiloxane may be, but not limited to, polydimethylsiloxane, ethylmethylpolysiloxane, dimethylsiloxane and methylvinylsiloxane copolymer, and mixtures of such polymers or copolymers having OH ends. The preferred diorganopolysiloxane is a polydimethylsiloxane. Examples of synthesis of such a copolymer are for example described in US Pat. No. 5,162,410 or in patent CA 711756.

The copolymers according to the present invention can therefore be prepared by heating the following mixture: from 45% to 75% by weight of silicone resin being the condensation product of the SiO 2 and R 3 (SiO) units 112 for which each R group is independently selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl or vinyl radicals and for which the ratio of the SiO 2 functions to the R 3 (SiO) 112 functions of the silicone resin is from 0.6 to 0.9; from 25% to 55% by weight of terminal OH-functional diorganopolysiloxane having a viscosity of between 100 and 100,000 cst at 25 ° C., for which the substituents of the diorganopolysiloxane are independently chosen from methyl, ethyl, propyl or vinyl radicals ; from 0.001% to 5% of a suitable catalyst, which is preferably an organic aliphatic amine compound preferably chosen from primary amines, secondary amines, tertiary amines, carboxylic acid salts of the amines mentioned above and quaternary ammonium salts.

The mixture is heated to a temperature of between 80 ° C and 160 ° C until the adhesive character of the resultant silicone copolymer is obtained. The preferred copolymers according to the invention are marketed by Dow Corning under the reference BIO-PSA, these BIO-PSA can be in two forms, standard or compatible amine, and being provided in different solvents with several ratio of silicone resin / fluid silicone. These include grades 7-4400, 7-4500, 7-4600. The particularly preferred BIO-PSA according to the invention is the grade 7-4400. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the amount of copolymer is greater than 1% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

The copolymer may in particular be present in the composition according to the invention in a content greater than 1% and up to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1.5% to 20% by weight. and preferably ranging from 1.5% to 15% by weight.

Volatile solvent According to the invention, the composition applied to the hair contains one or more volatile solvents. In the context of the invention, volatile solvent is understood to mean a compound which is liquid at ambient temperature (20 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and has a vapor pressure at 20 ° C. of greater than 0.1 mmHg and preferably between 0.1 and 300 mmHg, more preferably between 0.5 and 200 mmHg. This volatile solvent may be water, a non-silicone organic solvent, a silicone organic solvent or mixtures thereof.

As a volatile non-silicone organic solvent, mention may be made of: volatile C1-C4 alkanols such as ethanol or isopropanol; volatile C 5 -C 7 alkanes such as n-pentane, hexane, cyclopentane, 2,3-dimethylbutane, 2,2-dimethylbutane, 2-methylpentane and 3-methylpentane; esters of C.sub.1 -C.sub.20 acids and of volatile C.sub.1 -C.sub.6 alcohols, such as methyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, ethyl acetate and propyl acetate, isopentyl acetate, ethyl 3-ethoxypropionate; room-temperature and volatile ketones such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone, acetone; Volatile polyols such as propylene glycol; volatile ethers such as dimethoxymethane, diethoxyethane, diethyl ether; volatile glycol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, butyl diglycol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol n-butyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate; Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils such as volatile hydrocarbon oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes, for example C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or permetyls, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of isohexyl or isodecyl neopentanoate; volatile perfluoroalkanes C4-C10 such as dodecafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, decafluoropentane; volatile perfluorocycloalkyls such as perfluoromethylcyclopentane, 1,3-perfluorodimethylcyclohexane and perfluorodecalin, sold respectively under the names "Flutec PC10", "Flutec PC30" and "Flutec PC60" by the company F2 Chemicals, as well as perfluorodimethylcyclobutane and perfluoromorpholine; volatile fluoroalkyl or heterofluoroalkyl compounds corresponding to the following formula: ## STR3 ## in which t is 0 or 1; n is 0, 1, 2 or 3; X is a divalent perfluoroalkyl radical, linear or branched, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and Z represents O, S or NR, R being a hydrogen atom, a radical ù (CH 2) n -CH 3 or a radical (CF2) m-CF3, where m is 2, 3, 4 or 5.

Among the volatile fluoroalkyl or heterofluoroalkyl compounds, there may be mentioned in particular the methoxynonafluorobutane sold under the name "MSX 4518", "HFE-7100" by the company 3M and the ethoxynonafluorobutane sold under the name "HFE-7200" by the Company 3M. Preferably, the solvent is chosen such that its boiling point is below 200 ° C. According to a particular embodiment, the non-silicone organic solvent is chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, acetone and alkanes that are liquid at 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), such as isododecane. As a volatile silicone solvent, mention may be made of low viscosity silicone compounds chosen from linear or cyclic silicones having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, for example octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltri-siloxane, heptamethylethyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment, the silicone compound is chosen from cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane. This volatile silicone generally has a low viscosity, for example a viscosity of less than 10 cst at 25 ° C.

Preferably, the volatile silicone is chosen from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane. By way of example, mention may be made of the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name DC-245 by Dow Corning, the dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane sold under the name DC-246 by Dow Corning, and the octamethyltrisiloxane sold under the name DC-200 Fluid. 1 by Dow Corning and decamethyltetrasiloxane sold under the name DC-200 Fluid 1.5 cst by Dow Corning. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the volatile solvent (s) are chosen from water, ethanol, isopropanol, acetone, isododecane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane and mixtures thereof. The volatile solvent may be present in the composition useful in the process of the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 90% by weight. weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 90% by weight.

Metallic Particles The metallic particle consists of a pure metal or a metal alloy.

The metal particle useful in the composition of the invention is advantageously in the form of platelets. By platelets, we designate particles whose ratio of the largest dimension to the smallest dimension, called form factor, is greater than or equal to 5. By dimensions, we designate the dimensions given by the statistical particle size distribution at half the the population, called D50. In particular, the metal particle has a form factor greater than or equal to 8 and in particular to 10, and for example greater than or equal to 15. For the purposes of the invention, the metal particles consist of more than 80% of one or several metals.

The metal particle may be selected from silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze , titanium and alloys of these metals. Preferably the metal particle is selected from copper, zinc, aluminum, titanium, silver, gold and alloys of these metals. More preferably, a metal particle chosen from aluminum (advantageously having an aluminum content greater than or equal to 99%), copper (advantageously having a copper content of greater than or equal to 95%), bronze (preferably a copper content ranging from 70 to 95% and a zinc content ranging from 5 to 30%).

The metal particle of the invention may also be coated with the lubricant used in its production, in particular oleic acid or stearic acid. The metal core of the particle of the invention may also be coated with at least one so-called coating layer of at least one inorganic or organic material. The inorganic material is preferably chosen from metal oxides such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and their mixtures. The organic material is preferably selected from polyacrylates, silicones, polyolefins, polystyrene, polyesters, cellulose esters, polyamides, organophosphoric substances and mixtures thereof. When the metal particle is coated in addition or otherwise than by the lubricant used in its production, it is preferably coated with at least one layer of silicon oxide SiO2. These metal particles coated with SiO 2 and their preparation are described for example in DE 10238090.

The weight ratio of the coating layer to the metal substrate may range from 0.2 to 0.001. The coating layer may have a thickness of from 5 to 500 nm, in particular from 100 to 200 nm. The metal substrate coated with the layer of inorganic material may have a mean size (D50) ranging from 1 μm to 100 μm, preferably from 1 to 25 μm. The metal particles used in the compositions according to the invention have, for example, in their largest dimension, an average size of less than or equal to 25 μm, in particular less than or equal to 15 μm. By medium size, we denote the dimension given by the statistical size distribution to half of the population, called D50. Said particles generally have a thickness less than or equal to 1 μm, in particular less than or equal to 0.7 μm, in particular less than or equal to 0.5 μm. As metal particles that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names STARBRITE 2100 EAC by the company SIBERLINE and METALURE by the company ECKART. Mention may also be made of bronze powders such as those sold under the names Premior Super 8000 by the company Wolstenholme and under the names ROTHOFLEX, LITHOFLEX and STANDARD by the company ECKART with, for example, the references STANDART Bronze Powder Offset 3000 Super Pale Gold (D50 3-5 μm) and LITHOFLEX XA 40-03 Rich Pale Gold (D50 3-5 μm). Mention may also be made of metal alloy particles such as silica-coated bronze powders marketed under the name VISIONAIRE Honey (D50 17 μm) and under the name of VISIONAIRE Amber (D50 17 μm) by Eckart as well as those marketed. under the name DOROLAN 08/0 Pale Gold (D50 7-9 μm), the aluminum powder coated with SiO 2 sold under the reference VISIONAIRE Silver Sea (D50 17 μm) and the SiO 2 -coated copper powders marketed under the reference VISIONAIRE Cinnamon (D50 17 pm) and under the reference VISIONAIRE Lava (D50 17 pm) by the company ECKART as well as those sold under the name DOROLAN 10/0 Copper (D50 9-11 pm). The amount of metal particles is between 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Additional Additives The composition of the invention may comprise other cosmetic additives. In particular, the composition may contain additional silicone compounds other than volatile silicones. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may contain one or more polysiloxanes having a viscosity greater than 100 cst, preferably greater than 300 cst. The viscosity of these polysiloxanes can be measured according to ASTM D-445. Such polysiloxanes may be silicone oils, gums or resins, crosslinked silicones. As polysiloxanes with a viscosity of greater than 100 cSt, mention may be made in particular of polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones; polyphenylmethylsiloxanes such as phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethicones, and vinylmethylmethicones; as well as silicones modified with aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups. Such polysiloxanes may be chosen from the silicones of formula (I): ## STR5 ## in which: R 1, R 2, R 5 and R 6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms; carbon, R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an aryl radical, an optionally substituted aminoalkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical, a thioalkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, X is an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical, a vinyl radical, an optionally substituted aminoalkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a thioalkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, wherein n and p are integers selected so as to obtain a viscosity greater than 300 cst. By way of example, mention may be made of the following polydimethylsiloxanes: the substituents R 1, R 6 and X represent a methyl group, such as that sold under the name Baysilicone TP 3898 by the company General Electric, and that sold under the name AK 500000 by the company Waker, the substituents R 1, R 6 and X represent a methyl group, p and n are such that the molecular weight is 120,000 g / mol, such as that sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by the Dow Corning company, • the substituents R, to R6 and X represent a methyl group, p and n are such that the molecular weight is 250,000 g / mol, such as that sold under the name Mirasil DM 500,000 by Rhodia and that sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500,000 cst by the company Dow Corning, • the substituents R, to R6 represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, n and p are such that the molecular weight of the polymer is 600,000 g / mol, such as that sold under the name SGM 36 by Dow Corning, dimethicones of the (polydimethylsiloxane) (methylvinylsiloxane) type such as SE63 marketed by GE BAYER Silicones, poly (dimethylsiloxane) (diphenyl) (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

In the case where the polysiloxane comprises a fluorinated group, the following copolymers may be selected: ## STR1 ## wherein: linear or branched, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a divalent methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group, Rf represents a fluoroalkyl radical, especially a perfluoroalkyl radical, having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 9 atoms of carbon, R1 represents, independently of one another, a C1-C20 alkyl radical, a hydroxyl radical, a phenyl radical, R2 represents R1 or Rf, m is chosen from 0 to 500, preferably from 0 to 200, and n is selected from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 500. Preferably, the groups R 1 are identical and represent a methyl radical.

Such polysiloxanes are especially those marketed by Shin Etsu under the names 'FL-5', 'FL-10', 'X22-821' and 'X22-822' or 'FL-100', by Dow Corning under the name FS-1265 Fluid, by the company Phoenix Chemical under the Pecosil FS range under the names Pecosil FSL-150, Pecosil FSL-300, Pecosil FSH-150, Pecosil FSH-300, Pecosil FSU-150, Pecosil FSU- 300. The weight-average molecular mass of the polysiloxane (s) can be between 1000 and 150000 g / mol, especially between 20 000 and 1 000 000 g / mol. The polysiloxane may be a resin. By the term resin is meant a three-dimensional structure crosslinked or not. Examples of polysiloxane resin include silsesquioxanes and siloxysilicates. The nomenclature of the silicone resins is known under the name of "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomeric units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

The letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula (CH 3) 3 SiO 2, the silicon atom being connected to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit. The letter D signifies a difunctional unit (CH3) 2SiO212 in which the silicon atom is connected to two oxygen atoms. The letter T represents a trifunctional unit of formula (CH3) SiO312. In the units M, D and T defined above, at least one of the methyl groups may be substituted by a group R other than the methyl group such as a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group or else a hydroxyl group. Finally, the letter Q means a tetrafunctional unit SiO412 in which the silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen atoms themselves linked to the rest of the polymer. Various resins of different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying depending on the type of monomers (or units), the type and number of substituted radicals, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and size of hanging chains. By way of example of these silicone resins, mention may be made of: siloxysilicates which may be trimethylsiloxysilicate of formula [(CH 3) 3 SiO] X (SiO 4 12) y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 at 80, polysilesquioxanes of formula (CH3SiO312) X (T units) in which at least one of the methyl radicals may be substituted by a group R as defined above. Preferably the number x of T units of silsesquioxane is less than or equal to 500, it is more preferably between 50 and 500. The molecular weight of the silicone resin according to the invention is therefore preferably between 500 and 50,000. g / mol, more preferably between 500 and 20,000 g / mol and even more preferably between 500 and 10,000 g / mol; polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in US 5,246,694, the contents of which are incorporated by reference; polypropylsilsesquioxanes, for which the methyl radicals are replaced by propyl radicals. These compounds and their synthesis are described in particular in the patent application WO 2005/075567; polyphenylsilsesquioxanes, for which the methyl radicals are replaced by phenyl radicals. These compounds and their synthesis are described in particular in patent application US 2004/0180011. By way of examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those sold: by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising repeating units CH3SiO312 (T units), which can also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH3) 2SiO212 units (D units) and having an average molecular weight of about 10,000 g / mol. It is believed that the polymer is in a cage and ladder configuration as shown in the figures below. The average molecular weight of the units in cage configuration was calculated at 536 g / mol. The majority of the polymer is in ladder configuration with ethoxy groups at the ends. These ethoxy groups represent 4.5% by weight of the polymer. Since these ends may react with water, a low and variable level of SiOH groups may also be present. CH CH, Siù O ù Si CHa 0.'1 CNR 0'1 If ùbO ùSi / O 1 c1.4 l I 1 O Siù00 ù SI 1 ° / 1 ° / \ CH, Siù O ùSI / CH, CH, CHa Where and where Si Si Si Si Si Si Si Si Where Is Si? Si? Si? Si? Si? Si? Si? 1 O OBO If SI ù O ù If SI ù O SI Cy ~ If ù O r- If ù OEt CH I WhereSI XSI ~ whereSI CHO CH, I, ° I, ° CI / ° 1i ° CH3 IF ù O ù Si Where SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L which are composed of T units of formula CH3SiO312 and have Si-OH terminal groups (## STR1 ## silanol), under the reference KR-242A which comprise 98 ° / 0 of T units and 2 ° / 0 of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups or also under the reference KR-251 comprising 88 ° / 0 of T units and 12 ° / o of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups. As examples of commercially available polypropylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those sold: by the company Dow Corning under the reference Dow Corning 670 Fluid which is a polypropylsilsesquioxane diluted in D5.

As examples of commercially available polyphenylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those sold: by the company Dow Corning under the reference Dow Corning 217 Flake Resin which is a polyphenylsilsesquioxane with silanol ends; - by the company WACKER under the reference Belsil SPR 45 VP. As siloxysilicate resins, there may be mentioned trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins optionally in the form of powders. Such resins are sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of timethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J" by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749", "DC 593" by the company Dow Corning. The silicone resin according to the invention is preferably film-forming. Indeed, not all silsesquioxanes are film-forming, for example highly polymerized polymethylsilsesquioxanes such as Toshiba TospearlTM or Shin-Etsu KMP590 are insoluble and are not film-forming.

In one embodiment of the invention, the silicone resin or resins are soluble or dispersible in the composition of the invention. Preferably, the silicone resins according to the invention are soluble in volatile silicones and organic solvents. In one embodiment, the silicone resin is solid at 25 ° C. The preferred silicone resins according to the invention are trimethylsiloxysilicate resins, polymethylsilsesquioxane resins and polypropylsilsesquioxane resins.

The composition of the invention may also contain a crosslinked silicone such as a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane, a high molecular weight silicone compound having a three-dimensional structure with viscoelastic properties of a soft solid material. These organopolysiloxanes can thus be in dry powder form, or in swollen form, in a solvent, the resulting product being generally a gel. These products may also be in dispersed form in an aqueous solution. The synthesis of these organopolysiloxanes is described in the following patents: US Pat. No. 5,266,321 to Kobayashi Kose; US 4,742,142 to Toray Silicone; US Pat. No. 5,654,362 to Dow Corning Corp.; French Patent Application No. 2,864,784; .

The elastomeric organopolysiloxanes used in the composition may be partially or fully crosslinked. They are usually in the form of particles. In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles have a number average size ranging from 0.1 to 500 μm. These particles may be any shape and for example be spherical, flat or amorphous. The crosslinked organopolysiloxane obtained may be a non-emulsifying compound or an emulsifying compound. The term "non-emulsifying" defines crosslinked organopolysiloxanes not containing polyoxyalkylene units. The term "emulsifier" means crosslinked organopoysiloxane compounds having at least one polyoxyalkylene unit, especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene. The crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles may be transported in gel form consisting of a crosslinked organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles. The crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles may also be in the form of a powder, in particular in the form of a spherical powder. Non-emulsifying crosslinked organopolysiloxanes are described in US Pat. No. 4,970,252, US Pat. No. 4,987,169, US Pat. No. 5,412,004, US Pat. No. 5,654,362 and US Pat. No. 5,760,116 in JP-A-61-194009.

As non-emulsifying crosslinked organopolysiloxanes, those sold under the names "KSG-6", "KSG-15", "KSG-16", "KSG-18", "KSG-31", "KSG-32" can be used. , "KSG-33", "KSG-41", "KSG-42", "KSG-43", "KSG-44" USG-103 by the company Shin Etsu, "DC 9040", "DC9041", "DC 9509 "," DC9505 "," DC 9506 "DC 9045 by the company Dow Corning," GRANSIL "by the company Grant Industries," SFE 839 "by the company General Electric. Advantageously, the crosslinked emulsifying organopolysiloxanes comprise polyoxyalkylene modified organopolysiloxanes formed from divinyl compounds, in particular polysiloxanes having at least two vinyl groups, reacting with Si-H bonds of a polysiloxane. Cross-linked organopolysiloxanes which are emulsifiers are in particular described in patents US 5,236,986, US 5,412,004, US 5,837,793 and US 5,811,487. As emulsifiable crosslinked organopolysiloxanes, those marketed under the names "KSG-21", can be used. KSG-20 "," KSG-30 "by Shin Etsu, and" DC9010 "," DC9011 "by Dow Corning.

The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles may also be in the form of an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin, especially silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,538,793.

Such elastomers are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, KSP-105 by Shin Etsu. the crosslinked organopolysiloxane is non-emulsifying The composition of the invention may also contain a grafted silicone polymer Within the context of the invention, the term grafted silicone polymer is understood to mean a polymer comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer, the other being grafted onto said main chain, The grafted silicone polymers used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of polymers having a non-silicone organic skeleton grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane, polymers with a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers, and mixtures thereof. The non-silicone organic monomers constituting the main chain of the grafted silicone polymer may be chosen from radical-polymerizable ethylenically unsaturated monomers, polycondensation-polymerizable monomers such as those forming polyamides, polyesters, polyurethanes, such as those of the oxazoline or caprolactone type. The polymers having a non-silicone organic skeleton grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane, according to the invention, can be chosen from those described in patents US 4,693,935, US 4,728,571 and US 4,972,037 and the patent applications EP-AO 412,704, EP-AO 412,707, EP-AO 640,105 and WO 95/00578. These are copolymers obtained by free-radical polymerization from ethylenically unsaturated monomers and silicone macromers having a terminal vinyl group or else copolymers obtained by reacting a polyolefin comprising functionalized groups and a polysiloxane macromer having a function terminal reactive with said functionalized groups.

The non-silicone organic skeleton copolymer grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane may, for example, have the following structure: ## STR1 ## Such a polymer is marketed under the name KP 561 marketed by Shin Etsu. The non-silicone organic skeleton copolymer grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane may also have the following structure: ## STR1 ## ## STR2 ## where: ## STR1 ## This polymer, Polysilicone 7, is marketed under the name SA70 by 3M. ## STR1 ## ## STR2 ## ## STR1 ## . Other copolymers with a non-silicone organic skeleton grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane may also be KP545, KP574 and KP575 marketed by Shin Etsu.

As the grafted silicone compound, mention may also be made of the isobutylmethacrylate / bis-hydroxypropyl dimethicone acrylate copolymer marketed by Grant Industrie under the name Granacrysil BMAS. According to the present invention, the grafted silicone polymer or polymers having a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers comprise a silicone main chain (or polysiloxane (Si-O-) n) on which is grafted, inside. of said chain as well as possibly to at least one of its ends, at least one organic group having no silicone. Examples of silicone polymers corresponding to the definition are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting member, mixed polymer units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type and of the type alkyl poly (meth) acrylate. As a compound corresponding to this definition, mention may be made of poly dimethyl / methyl siloxane containing propylthio-3-methyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid or Polysilicone-8 groups sold under the name VS80 by the company 3M. Other examples of silicone polymers include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene type connecting link, polymeric units of the poly (meth) acrylate isobutyl type.

Preferably, the number-average molecular weight of the silicone polymers having a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers of the invention varies from about 10,000 to 1,000,000, and even more preferably from about 10,000 to 100,000. Preferably, the grafted silicone polymers are chosen from the group consisting of the polydimethylsiloxane grafted alkyl methacrylate copolymer, the copolymers of isobutyl methacrylate, of acrylic acid and of silicone macromer and the propyl group-containing poly dimethyl / methyl siloxane. thio-3-methyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid. The preferred silicone compounds are silicone oils, especially those described in formula (I), and silicone resins. When present in the composition according to the invention, the amount of additional silicone compounds is between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 20% by weight, and even more preferably between 0 and 20% by weight. , 1 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention may further contain one or more pigments other than metal particles.

By pigment is meant all the pigments bringing color to the keratin materials. Their solubility in water at 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05%, and preferably less than 0.01%. The pigments that may be used are chosen from organic and / or inorganic pigments known in the art, in particular those described in Kirk-Othmer's encyclopedia of chemical technology and in Ullmann's encyclopedia of industrial chemistry. These pigments can be in the form of powder or pigment paste. They can be coated or uncoated.

The pigments may for example be chosen from inorganic pigments, organic pigments, lacquers, special effect pigments such as nacres, metallic pigments or flakes, and mixtures thereof. The pigment may be a mineral pigment. By mineral pigment is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the inorganic pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium oxide. The pigment may be an organic pigment. By organic pigment is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may especially be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds. In particular, the organic pigments can be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references Cl 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives, phenolic such as that they are described in the patent FR 2 679 771. The pigments according to the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least a binder for fixing the organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.

The organic pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer is meant dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use. The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum. Among the dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the dyes known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (Cl 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (Cl 45 370), D & C Red 27 (Cl 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (Cl 45,425), D & C Red 3 (Cl 45,430), D & C Red 4 (Cl 15,510), D & C Red 33 (Cl 17,200), D & C Yellow 5 (Cl 19,140), D & C Yellow 6 (Cl 15,985), D & C Green (Cl 61,570), D & C Yellow 10 (Cl 77,002), D & C Green 3 (Cl 42,053), D & C Blue 1 ( Cl 42 090). As examples of lacquers, mention may be made of the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (Cl 15 850: 1). The pigment can also be a special effects pigment. Pigments with special effects means pigments which generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain nuance, a certain liveliness and a certain clarity) which is non-uniform and changeable according to the conditions of observation (light, temperature , observation angles ...). They are thus opposed to colored pigments that provide a uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent conventional shade.

There are several types of special effect pigments, those with low refractive index such as fluorescent pigments, photochromic or thermochromic, and those with higher refractive index such as nacres or flakes. By way of examples of special effect pigments, mention may be made of pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium oxide, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium oxide and of iron oxides, mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium oxide and in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium oxide and an organic pigment such as as defined above, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.

As an illustration of the nacres that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may especially be made of the gold-colored nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona), by the company Eckart under the name Prestige Bronze and Prestige Soft Bronze and by Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica) and by Eckart under the name Prestige Copper and Prestige Soft Copper; the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), Dark Blue (117324) (Colorona), the white nacres with silvery reflection sold by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by the company Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures. In addition to nacres on a mica support, it is possible to envisage multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum. Non-fixed interference-effect pigments may also be mentioned, such as liquid crystals (Wacker's Helicones HC) and holographic interference flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f / x by Spectratek). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether they are fluorescent substances in the light of day or that produce an ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, marketed for example by Quantum Dots Corporation. The variety of pigments that can be used in the present invention provides a rich palette of colors, as well as particular optical effects such as interferential metallic effects. The size of the pigment used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 μm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 μm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 μm. The pigments can be dispersed in the product by means of a dispersing agent. The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles against agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, bearing one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they can cling physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants have, in addition, at least one functional group compatible or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, the esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid, in particular of C 8 to C 20 fatty acid, and of polyol, such as glycerol or diglycerol, such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate, are used. molecular weight of about 750 g / mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, the 2-polyglyceryl dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by Henkel or the polyhydroxystearic acid; such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema and their mixtures.

As another dispersant that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of the quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, such as the Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, the mixtures of polydimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene such as those sold by the Dow Corning company under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.

The pigments used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be surface-treated with an organic agent. Thus, the previously surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the invention are pigments which have undergone totally or partially a chemical, electronic, electro-chemical, mechanical-chemical or mechanical surface treatment with an organic agent such as those described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64 before being dispersed in the composition according to the invention. These organic agents may be, for example, chosen from amino acids; waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example aluminum stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polysaccharides, for example chitosan, cellulose and its derivatives; polyethylene; (meth) acrylic polymers, for example polymethyl methacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; the proteins ; alkanoamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, polydimethylsiloxanes, alkoxysilanes, alkylsilanes, siloxysilicates; fluorinated organic compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluoro-silicone compounds. The surface-treated pigments useful in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and / or have undergone several surface treatments. The surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the present invention may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art or found as such in the trade. Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are covered by an organic layer. The organic agent with which the pigments are treated can be deposited on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surfactant or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.

The surface treatment can thus be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or fillers. This method is especially described in US Pat. No. 4,578,266. Preferably, an organic agent bound to the pigments will be covalently used. The agent for the surface treatment may represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigments, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight. weight.

When present, the amount of pigment is generally between 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more thickening agents chosen from polymeric thickeners, mineral thickeners and mixtures thereof.

The thickener may be inorganic or organic, polymeric or non-polymeric. The thickener may be chosen to thicken an aqueous phase or a fatty phase of the composition according to the case. A thickener is a compound which modifies the rheology of the medium in which it is incorporated by increasing the viscosity of the medium by at least 100 cps at 25 ° C. and at a shear rate of 1 sec -1. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plane viscometer (Haake R600 Rheometer or the like). The aqueous medium thickener can be chosen from: - hydrophilic clays, - hydrophilic fumed silica, - water-soluble cellulosic thickeners, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose. Among these, mention may in particular be made of the gums sold under the name Cellolize QP 4400 H by Amercol. nonionic guar gums comprising C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl groups. By way of example, mention may be made of hydroxymethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. Such guar gums are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar HP105 by the company Mehhall or under the name GALACTASOL 40H4FD2 by AQUALON. Carrageenans, locust bean, scleroglucan, gellan, rhamsan, karaya gums, alginates, maltodextrins, starch and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its salts, poly polymers. Glyceryl methacrylates sold under the names "Hispagel" or "Lubragel" by the Hispano Quimica or Guardian companies, polyvinyl alcohol, cross-linked acrylamide polymers and copolymers, such as those sold under the denominations of "PAS 5161" or "Bozepol C" by Hoechst, "Sepigel 305" by Seppic by Allied Colloid, or 30 - crosslinked homopolymers of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride sold under the name of "Salcare SC95 "by Allied Colloid, - associative polymers and especially associative polyurethanes. Such thickeners are especially described in applications EP-A-1400234, the contents of which are incorporated by reference. The oily medium thickener may be selected from: - organophilic clays, - hydrophobic fumed silicas - alkylated guar gums (with C1-C6 alkyl group), such as those described in EP-A-708114; oil-forming polymers such as triblock or star polymers resulting from the polymerization or copolymerization of at least one monomer containing an ethylenic group, such as the polymers sold under the name Kraton; polymers having a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymeric backbone having hydrocarbon-based repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain optionally functionalized, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being bonded to these hydrocarbon-based units, as described in applications WO-A-02/056847, WO-A-02/47619, the content of which is incorporated by way of reference ; in particular polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US-A-5783657 whose contents are incorporated by reference. silicone polyamide resins as described in patent application EP-A-1266647, in the French patent application filed under No. 0 216 039, the content of which is incorporated by reference. Such thickeners are especially described in applications EP-A-1400234, the contents of which are incorporated by reference. The thickener may be an organic gelling agent, that is to say an agent comprising at least one organic compound. The organogellators may be selected from those described in WO-A-03/105788, the contents of which are incorporated by reference. More specifically, the polymeric thickener present in the composition according to the invention is an amorphous polymer formed by polymerization of an olefin. The olefin may especially be an ethylenically unsaturated elastomeric monomer. As an example of an olefin, mention may be made of ethylenic carbide monomers, especially having one or two ethylenic unsaturations, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene and isoprene.

The polymeric thickening agent is capable of thickening or gelling the composition. By amorphous polymer is meant a polymer which does not have a crystalline form. The polymeric thickener may also be film-forming. The polymeric thickening agent may in particular be a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial or star copolymer, or mixtures thereof. Such polymeric thickeners are described in US-A-2002/005562 and in US-A-5,221,534. Advantageously, the polymeric thickening agent is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin.

The polymeric thickening agent is preferably hydrogenated to reduce residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers. In particular, the polymeric thickening agent is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / C 3 -C 4 alkylene blocks. As the diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, mention may be made of styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers and styrene / butadiene copolymers. Diblock polymers are in particular sold under the name Kraton G1701 E by Kraton Polymers. As the triblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, mention may be made of styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymers, styrene-butadiene copolymers. -styrene. Triblock polymers are sold in particular under the names Kraton G1650, Kraton G1652, Kraton D1101, Kraton D1102 and Kraton D1160 by Kraton Polymers. It is also possible to use a mixture of styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene triblock hydrogenated copolymer and ethylenepropylene-styrene hydrogenated star polymer, such a mixture being especially in isododecane. Such mixtures are for example sold by PENRECO under the trade names VERSAGEL M5960 and VERSAGEL M5670. Advantageously, a diblock copolymer such as those described above, in particular a diblock copolymer of styrene-ethylene / propylene, is used as polymeric thickening agent. More specifically, organophilic clays are clays modified with chemical compounds that make the clay swellable.

Clays are already well known products per se, which are described for example in the book "Clay Mineralogy, S. Caillere, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition 1982, Masson", whose teaching is here included for reference. The clays are silicates containing a cation which may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium cations and their mixtures. Examples of such products include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites, saponites, as well as the family of vermiculites, stevensite, chlorites .

These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. Preferably, the clays are used which are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with the keratin materials. The organophilic clay may be selected from montmorrilonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite. These clays can be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulphates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

As organophilic clays, mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38, Bentone 38V by Rheox, Tixogel VP by United catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40, Claytone XL by Southern Clay Company; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the names Claytone HT, Claytone PS by Southern Clay. The fumed silicas can be obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This method makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which have a large number of silanol groups on their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold under the names "AEROSIL 130", "AEROSIL 200", "AEROSIL 255", "AEROSIL 300", "AEROSIL 380" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL HS-5" , "CAB-O-SIL EH-5", "CAB-O-SIL LM-130", "CAB-O-SIL MS-55", "CAB-O-SIL M-5" by Cabot. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of said silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references "AEROSIL R812" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-530" by the company Cabot. - Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references "AEROSIL R972", "AEROSIL R974" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-610", "CAB-O-SIL TS-720" by Cabot. The fumed silica preferably has a particle size which may be nanometric to micrometric, for example from about 5 to 200 nm. The mineral thickener is preferably a hectorite or organomodified bentonite. The thickening agent (s) may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 7% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight. The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more agents usually used in cosmetics, chosen, for example, from reducing agents, fatty substances, plasticizers, softeners, anti-foam agents, moisturizing agents, UV filters, mineral colloids, peptizers, solubilizers, perfumes, proteins, vitamins, propellants, oxyethylenated waxes or not, paraffins, C10-C30 fatty acids such as stearic acid, lauric acid, C10-C30 fatty amides such as lauric diethanolamide.

The above additives are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additives in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the formation of the cladding according to the invention are not, or not substantially impaired.

The composition according to the invention may especially be in the form of suspension, dispersion, solution, gel, emulsion, in particular oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion. ), or multiple (EIHIE or polyol / H / E or H / E / H), in the form of cream, foam, stick, dispersion of vesicles including ionic lipids or not, biphase or multiphase lotion, spray , powder, paste. The composition may be an anhydrous composition, that is to say a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, in particular water-free, the water being being not added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients. The composition may also be in the form of lacquer. The composition described above can be used on dry or wet hair. The additives described above, when present, can be applied to the hair simultaneously with the composition of the invention or separately. The composition may be rinsed or not. It is also possible to perform a washing of the hair, this washing is not required. It is also possible to use an application method with heating. According to this particular mode, the application to the hair is implemented for example by means of a comb, a brush with a brush or fingers. The application of the composition is then followed by drying at a temperature above 40 ° C. According to a particular embodiment, this temperature is greater than 45 ° C. According to another particular embodiment, this temperature is greater than 45 ° C. and less than 220 ° C.

Drying can be carried out immediately after application or after a laying time ranging from 1 minute to 30 minutes. Preferably, the hair is dried, in addition to a heat input, with a flow of air. This air flow during drying makes it possible to improve the individualization of the cladding.

During the drying, a mechanical action on the locks can be exerted such as combing, brushing, the passage of the fingers. The drying step of the process of the invention can be carried out with a helmet, a hair dryer, a hair straightener ...

When the drying step is carried out with a helmet or a hair dryer, the drying temperature is between 40 and 110 degrees, preferably between 50 and 90 degrees. When the drying step is carried out with a straightening iron, the drying temperature is between 110 and 220 degrees, preferably between 140 and 200 degrees. Once the drying is completed, a rinsing or a terminal shampoo may optionally be performed. The invention will be more fully illustrated with the aid of the following nonlimiting examples.

EXAMPLES

EXAMPLE 1 The following compositions are carried out: Composition 1 2 3 (outside the invention) BioPSA DC 7-4405 40% 17.5 g 17.5 g 17.5 g in isododecane marketed by Dow Corning PDMS alpha gum 1.5 g 1.5 g 1.5g omega dihydroxyl of very high molecular weight 5g - - Silica coated bronze powder marketed under the name VISIONAIRE HONEY by Eckart Bronze powder - 5 g - marketed under the name STANDART Bronze Powder Offset 3000 Super Pale Gold by Eckart Nacre mica coated with titanium oxide and iron oxide marketed by Eckart® - 5 g under the name Prestige Sun Gold Isododecane Qs 100 g Qs 100 g Qs 100 g 0.6 g of the composition 1 or 2 is applied on a wick 1g of brown hair clean and wet. After 2 minutes pause, the wick is dried with a hair dryer at a temperature of 80 ° C for 2 minutes. We obtain a colored wick whose hair is individualized and whose color is intense, very homogeneous and remanent to shampoo. Composition 3 is applied to the hair under the same conditions as those used for compositions 1 and 2. When a lock is treated with composition 6, the color obtained is less intense and therefore less visible. The color obtained is also less predictable, that is to say that the coloration obtained on the locks is further from the color of the composition.

EXAMPLE 2 The following compositions are carried out: Composition 4 5 6 7 8 9 BioPSA DC 7-4405 at 40% in 17.5 g 17.5 g 17.5 g 17.5 g 17.5 g 17.5 g isododecane marketed by Dow Corning PDMS gum 1.5 g 1.5 g 1.5 g 1.5 g 1.5 g 1.5 g alpha-omega dihydroxyl of very high molecular weight 5 g - - - - - bronze powder coated with silica marketed under the name VISIONAIRE HONEY by Eckart Copper powder _ 5 g - - - - Coated of silica marketed under the name VISIONAIRE CINNAMON by Eckart Aluminum powder _ _ 5 g _ _ _ coated with silica marketed under the name VISIONAIRE SILVER SEA by Eckart Copper powder _ _ _ 5 g _ _ coated with silica marketed under the name DOROLAN 10/0 Copper by Eckart Bronze powder _ - - - 5 g 3 8- marketed under the name STANDART Bronze Powder Offset 3000 Super Pale Gold by Eckart Nacre mica coated - - - - - 2 g of brown iron oxide marketed by Eckart under the name Prestige Soft Bronze Polymethylsilsesqui ox 3g 3g 3g 3g 3g 3g ane sold under the name Wacker Belsil PMS MK Powder by Wacker Disteardimonium 15 g 15 g 15 g 15 g 15 g hectorite (10%) and propylene carbonate (3%) in isododecane sold by Elementis under the name Bentone Gel ISD V Isododecane Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 gggggg 0.6 g of the composition 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 or 9 is applied on a lock of 1 g of clean and wet chestnut hair. After 2 minutes pause, the wick is dried with a hair dryer at a temperature of 80 ° C for 2 minutes. We obtain a colored wick whose hair is individualized and whose color is intense, very homogeneous and remanent to shampoo.

Claims (16)

REVENDICATIONS1. Keratin fiber treatment composition comprising one or more copolymers based on silicone resin and fluid silicone, one or more volatile solvents, and one or more metal particles comprising more than 80% of metals. 2. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the copolymer comprises the silicone resin at a level of between 45 and 75% and the fluid silicone at a level of between 25 and 55%, with the sum of the percentages of silicone resin and of fluid silicone which is equal to 100. 3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the silicone resin is present at a level of between 55 and 65% and the fluid silicone is present at a level of between 35 and 45%, with the sum of the percentages of the resin of silicone and fluid silicone which is equal to 100. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the amount of copolymer is greater than 1% by weight of the total weight of the composition. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the volatile solvent (s) is (are) chosen from water, non-silicone organic solvents and silicone organic solvents. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the volatile solvent (s) are chosen from water, ethanol, isopropanol, acetone, isododecane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane. and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane or mixtures thereof. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the metal particle or particles consist of at least 80% of one or more metals. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the metal particle or particles are chosen from among silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper and zinc. , tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, titanium and alloys of these metals. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the metal particles have a form factor greater than or equal to 8. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the metal core of the particle or particles is coated with at least one layer of silicon oxide SiO2. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the metal particle or particles are present in an amount of between 0.1 and 40% and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity of greater than 100 cst chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones; polyphenylmethylsiloxanes; as well as silicones modified with aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups chosen from hydroxyl, thiol and amine groups. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more pigments, preferably nacres. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more pigments, preferably nacres. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims anhydrous. 16. A method for treating keratinous fibers comprising applying a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13, this application being followed by drying at a temperature above 40 ° C.