FR2939032A1 - Composition, useful for cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, and for styling of hair comprises polysaccharides of lambda carrageenan, and a compound having unmodified monosaccharide ketose and unmodified disaccharide - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprises one or more polysaccharides of lambda carrageenan, and one or more compound comprising unmodified monosaccharide ketose and unmodified disaccharide containing at least one unit form ketose, in a medium.

Description

B08 / 0300FR - GD / JBL OA 08391

Anonyme known as: L'OREAL Cosmetic composition comprising at least one lambda carrageenan type polysaccharide and at least one particular unmodified monosaccharide and / or disaccharide Invention of: VIERA Valérie LAURENT Ludivine Cosmetic composition comprising at least one lambda carrageenan type polysaccharide and The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a carrageenan lambda type polysaccharide and a particular monosaccharide or disaccharide, as well as to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers. and the use of said hair styling composition. In the field of styling, in particular among hair products intended for shaping and / or maintaining the hairstyle, the hair compositions generally consist of an alcoholic or aqueous solution and one or more fixing polymers mixed with various cosmetic adjuvants. These compositions can be in the form of gels or hair mousse which are generally applied to wet hair before blow drying or drying. In particular, the hair gels consist in particular of one or more thickening polymers or gelling agents in combination with one or more fixing polymers which most often have the function of forming a film on the surface of the keratin fibers to be fixed. It is known to use carrageenans as fixing polymers in styling gels or in aerosols. In particular, the use of a carrageenan lambda type polysaccharide makes it possible to obtain hair styling products having good styling and cosmetic properties. Carrageenans are polysaccharides that constitute the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the families Gigartinaceae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae. They have long galactan chains, anionic polyelectrolytes. Their molecular weight can be greater than 106. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units alternately linked by α- and β-linkages, which are highly sulphated polysaccharides (20-50% ) and the α-D-galactopyranosyl residues may be in the 3 ', 6'-anhydro form.

Initially, carrageenans were subdivided into two families according to their solubility in potassium chloride (KCl). The fractions soluble in KC1 were designated by the prefixes "Kappa", while the terms "Lambda" were reserved for those insoluble. Later, the classifications were based on the number, the position of sulphate groups and the presence of 3 ', 6'-anhydro bridge on residues (3-D-galactopyranosyls), which resulted in the four major families: x, X, (3, w) The different types of carrageenans do not exist in the pure state, but in the form of hybrids, Thus in the natural state, the x and 1-carrageenans are in a hybrid Kappa form. but one of the two structures can predominate over the other.The hybrid state xt of a structure can be elucidated by using specific enzymes, which allow to enrich or diminish the content of one of the two The carrageenans can coexist with their precursors Carrageenans from different families can coexist in a hybrid structure, eg carrageenan from Euchema gelatinae: a hybrid of (3-carrageenan, major component, and x, ycaraghenans. Document FR 2 904 53 is known 7 a cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratinous fibers comprising a carrageenan Lambda type polysaccharide and a polyol containing in its structure at least three hydroxyl groups other than the carrageenan Lambda. In particular, this document discloses a cosmetic composition comprising a carrageenan lambda and glucose, which is an aldose. It aims to obtain gels of better textures, less brittle, less hard and easier to apply, and to improve the properties of the hairstyle over time. If the use of a lambda carrageenan type polysaccharide makes it possible to obtain hair styling products having good styling and cosmetic properties, the level of fixing of the hairstyle is however a little weak and the behavior over time must be improved. There is therefore a real need to have a cosmetic composition which has good styling and cosmetic properties, and which makes it possible to overcome the disadvantages mentioned above. The Applicant has discovered that by combining a carrageenan lambda type polysaccharide with one or more compounds selected from particular unmodified monosaccharides and / or disaccharides, it was possible to obtain a hair composition having improved hair fixing capacity, and allowing a better behavior in time. The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: one or more lambda-type carrageenan polysaccharides, and one or more compounds chosen from unmodified monosaccharide ketoses and unmodified disaccharides containing at least one motif. from a ketosis. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process using the cosmetic composition according to the invention. Another object of the present invention is the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for styling the hair.

Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. Hair styling means fixing and / or maintaining the shape of the hairstyle.

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more carrageenan type lambda polysaccharides. The carrageenan lambda polysaccharide may be chemically modified or not. Preferably, the carrageenan lambda polysaccharide is not chemically modified.

Preferably, the molecular weight (MW) of the polysaccharide is between 100 000 and 1000 000. Even more preferentially, the molecular weight is between 250 000 and 800 000. As carrageenan lambda polysaccharide present in the composition according to the present invention. invention, mention may be made of SATIAGUM UTC 10 from DEGUSSA and WELGEENAN ED 1039 from EUROGUM. The carrageenan lambda polysaccharide (s) generally represent from 0.01 to 30%, preferably from 0.1 to 20%, better still from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. As explained above, the composition according to the invention also comprises one or more compounds chosen from unmodified monosaccharide ketoses and unmodified disaccharides containing at least one unit derived from a ketosis.

Ketosis means a ketone-functionose. By unmodified saccharides is meant native saccharides that have not been chemically modified. The unmodified monosaccharide ketoses according to the invention may be chosen from fructose, sorbose, tagatose, psicose, ribulose, xylulose and erythrulose. As the preferred unmodified monosaccharide ketose, there may be mentioned fructose. The unmodified disaccharides containing at least one unit resulting from a ketosis may comprise, for example, two units derived from the same ketosis. This is the case of inulobiosis which includes two fructose units. They may also include two units from different monosaccharides. This is the case of sucrose (sucrose), isomaltulose, turanose, trehalulose, leucrose and lactulose.

Preferably, the unmodified disaccharide containing at least one unit derived from a ketosis is sucrose. Thus, for example, the composition according to the invention may comprise honey. Honey generally comprises between 75 and 80% by weight of sugars. The main sugar is fructose, generally present in honey at a content of between 35 and 40% by weight. Honey also contains sucrose. The compounds chosen from unmodified monosaccharide ketoses or unmodified disaccharides containing at least one unit derived from a ketosis generally represent from 0.01 to 30%, preferably from 0.5 to 25%, more preferably from 1 to 20%, better from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The carrageenan lamda polysaccharide (s) weight ratio / compound (s) chosen from unmodified monosaccharide ketoses and unmodified disaccharides containing at least one unit resulting from a ketosis is generally between 0.01 and 10. and preferably between 0.05 and 1. The cosmetic composition according to the invention preferably further comprises at least one additive chosen from silicones, fatty substances, polymers other than carrageenan lambda polysaccharides and surfactants. The silicones optionally present in the composition according to the invention are in particular polyorganosiloxanes which may be in the form of aqueous solutions, that is to say solubilized, or optionally in the form of dispersions or micro-dispersions, or of emulsions aqueous. The polyorganosiloxanes may also be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums. Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academie Press. Silicones can be volatile or non-volatile. When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic silicones containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms and preferably 4 to 5. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHONE POULENC, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name of "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHONE POULENC, as well as their mixtures. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by UNION CARBIDE, with a chemical structure, such that D "D" D "H3 H3 with D Examples of cyclic silicone mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1, may also be mentioned. (hexa-2,2,2 ', 2', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; (ii) linear volatile silicones having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5.10.6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200 "by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics". Non-volatile silicones and more particularly polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups and their mixtures are preferably used. These silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups (dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. and preferably 1 × 10 -5 to 1 m2 / s. The viscosity of the silicones is, for example, measured at 25 ° C. according to the ASTM 445 Appendix C standard. Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: SILBIONE oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL oils marketed by RHONE POULENC such as, for example, 70 047 V 500 000; oils of the MIRASIL series marketed by RHONE POULENC; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as, more particularly, the DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 Cst; - VISCASIL oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA name), such as the oils of the 48 series of the company Rhone-Poulenc. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing aminoethyl aminopropyl and alpha-omega silanol groups.

In this class of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT, which are poly (C1-C20) alkylsiloxanes. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl methylphenylsiloxanes and linear and / or branched polydimethyl diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include by way of example the products sold under the following names: - SILBIONE oils of the 70 641 series RHONE POULENC; - RHODORSIL 70 633 and 763 series oils from RHONE POULENC; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from Dow Corning; the silicones of the PK series of BAYER, such as the product PK20; the silicones of the PN, PH series of BAYER, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; . certain oils of the series SF of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265. The silicone gums which may be present in the composition according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having high average molecular weights between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecanes or their mixtures. Mention may be made more particularly of the following products: polydimethylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums. More particularly useful products are the following mixtures: - mixtures formed from a hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane at the end of the chain (called dimethiconol according to the CTFA dictionary nomenclature) and a cyclic poly-dimethylsiloxane (called cyclomethicone according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary) such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning; mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500 000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE 30 gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil.

The organopolysiloxane resins optionally present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R2SiOz12, R3SiO112, RSiO312 and SiO412 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, those particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a lower alkyl radical C1-C4, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl radical. Among these resins may be mentioned the product sold under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu. The organomodified silicones optionally present in the composition according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon radical. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C 6 -C 24 alkyl groups such as the products called dimethicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C12) methicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200; thiol groups such as the products sold under the names "GP 72 A" and "GP 71" from GENESEE; alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT; hydroxyl groups such as the hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes described in the French patent application FRA-85 16334; acyloxyalkyl groups such as, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in US Pat. No. 4,957,732; anionic groups of the carboxylic type, for example in the products described in the patent EP 186 507 of the company Chisso Corporation, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as those present in the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulphate such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL 5201" and "ABIL S255"; hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent application EP 342 834. Mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2-8413 from Dow Corning. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may also be made of amino silicones. Amino silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

The amino silicones used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from: (a) the compounds corresponding to the following formula (I) (R1) a (T) 3-a-Si [OSi (T) 2] n- [OSi (T) b (R1) 2-b] m-OSi (T) 3-a- (R1) a (I) wherein, T is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH ), or C1-C8 alkyl, and preferably methyl or C1-C8 alkoxy, preferably methoxy, a denotes the number 0 or an integer of 1 to 3, and preferably 0, b is 0 or 1, and in particular 1, m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) may vary in particular from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and especially from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2,000, and in particular from 1 to 10; R1 is a monovalent radical of the formula -CqH2qL wherein q is 2-8 and L is an optionally quaternized amine group selected from: - N (R2) -CH2-CH2-N (R2) 2; N (R 2) 2 N + (R 2) 3 Q- - N + (R 2) (H) 2 Q- - N + (R 2) 2HQ-25 -N (R 2) -CH 2 -CH 2 -N + (R 2) (H) 2 Q-, in which R2 may designate a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical, and Q- represents a halide ion such as, for example, fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide. In particular, the amino silicones corresponding to the definition of the formula (I) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula: ## STR2 ## wherein SiO 2 SiO 2 SiCH 3 CH 3 CH 3 n CH 3

NH 1 (CH 2) 2 m

NH 2 (11) in which R, R ', R ", which may be identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, preferably CH 3, a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy, or OH; A represents a radical; C3-C8 linear or branched, preferably C3-C6 alkylene, m and n are integers dependent on molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.

According to a first possibility, R, R ', R ", identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl radical, A represents a C3 alkylene radical and m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound The compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicone".

According to a second possibility, R, R ', R ", which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R or R" is an alkoxy radical and A represents a radical alkylene radical. C3. The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 0.2 / 1 and 0.4 / 1 and advantageously equal to 0.3 / 1. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 106. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.

In this category of compounds, mention may be made inter alia of the product Belsil ADM 652, marketed by Wacker.

According to a third possibility, R, R ", different, represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R, R" is an alkoxy radical, R 'represents a methyl radical and A represents a radical. C3 alkylene. The molar ratio of hydroxy / alkoxy is preferably between 1 / 0.8 and 1 / 1.1, and advantageously is equal to 1 / 0.95. Furthermore, m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 200000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.

More particularly, there may be mentioned the product F1uidWR 1300, marketed by Wacker. According to a fourth possibility, R, R "represent a hydroxyl radical, R 'represents a methyl radical and A is a C4-C8 alkylene radical, preferably a C4 radical, and m and n are such that the average molecular weight by weight of the compound is between 2000 and 106. More particularly, n is between 0 and 1999 and m is between 1 and 2000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 2000. A product of this type is especially sold under the name DC28299 by Dow Corning.It should be noted that the molecular mass of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard, styragem columns, THF eluent, flow rate of 1 mm / m, 200 l of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF and the detection is carried out by refractometry and UV-metry.) A product corresponding to the definition of formula (I) is in particular the polymer referred to in US Pat. di CTFA reporter "trimethylsilylamodimethicone", having the following formula (III): CH3 CH3 (CH3) 3 SiO SiO SiO Si (CH3) 3 1 CH3 CH2 n CHCH3 CH2 NH m (i H2) 2

NH2 (III) in which n and m have the meanings given above

according to formula (I).

Such compounds are described for example in EP 95238; a compound of formula (III) is for example sold under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI.

(b) compounds of the following formula (IV): R 4 CH 2 CHOH 1 CH 2 · N + (R 3) 3 R 3 Si O

Wherein R3 represents a C1-C18 monovalent hydrocarbon radical, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl; R4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, especially a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C1-C8, alkyleneoxy radical; Q- is a halide ion, especially chloride; r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 20 and in particular 2 to 8; s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50.

Such compounds are described more particularly in US Patent 4185087.

A compound in this class is that sold by Union Carbide under the name "Ucar Silicone ALE 56".

c) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (V): 2X-R 7 R 7 Si 1 R 6 -CH 2 -CHOH-CH 2 -N 1 R 7 R 7 (V)

in which :

R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or

a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkylene radical or a divalent C 1 -C 18, for example C 1 -C 8, alkyleneoxy radical connected to Si by an SiC bond;

R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom,

a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical, a -R6-NHCOR7 radical;

X - is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.);

r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 200 and in particular 5 to 100;

These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974.

d) the aminosilicones of formula (VI): ## STR5 ## wherein R 5 is a hydrogen atom of the formula (VI): ## STR2 ##

NH 1 (ÇmH 2m) NH 2 in which: R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4, which may be identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, R 5 denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, n is an integer varying from 1 to 5, m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and wherein x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq / g. Particularly preferred silicones are polysiloxanes containing amine groups such as amodimethicones or trimethylsilylamodimethicones (CTFA 4th edition 1997), and even more particularly silicones with quaternary ammonium groups. When these compounds are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use together with cationic and / or nonionic surfactants. As an example, it is possible to use the product sold under the name "Cationic Emulsion DC 939" by Dow Corning, which comprises, in addition to amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant which is trimethylketylammonium chloride and a non-surface-active agent. ionic compound of formula: C13H27- (OC2H4) 12-OH, known under the name CTFA "trideceth-12".

Another commercial product that can be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name "Dow Corning Q2 7224" by the company Dow Corning, comprising in combination the trimethylsilylamodimethicone of formula (III) described above, a nonionic surfactant of formula: C8H17-C6H4- (OCH2CH2) 40-OH, known under the name CTFA "octoxynol-40", a second nonionic surfactant of the formula: C12H25- (OCH2-CH2) 6-OH, known under the name CTFA "isolaureth-6", and propylene glycol. The silicone or silicones generally represent from 0 to 30%, preferably from 0.2 to 20% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. As explained above, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more polymers other than lambda carrageenan type polysaccharides and unmodified disaccharides containing at least one ketosis-derived unit described above. The polymer or polymers other than the carrageenan type lambda polysaccharides described above may be of natural, vegetable or mineral origin, and / or of synthesis. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" means a compound comprising the repetition of at least two units derived from at least one compound called a monomer. This therefore includes oligomers with a repetition number ranging from 2 to 10. The polymers of natural origin can be chosen from pectins, celluloses, alginates, gum tragacanth and starches. Polymers of vegetable origin and synthetically modified can be chosen for example from starch derivatives, such as carboxymethyl starch and diamidon phosphate and cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose. The polymers may be chosen from cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups.

The cationic polymers that can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly connected thereto, and having a mass number average molecular weight of between 500 and about 5,000,000, and preferably between 1,000 and 3,000,000. Among these polymers, there may be mentioned more particularly the following cationic polymers: (1) homopolymers or copolymers of esters or d amino-functional acrylic or methacrylic amides having at least one of the following units: ## STR2 ## where ## STR1 ## where ## STR2 ## C) 1+

R4 N + R6 [X] R4 wherein R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group; A is a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R4, R5, R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group; X denotes a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of family (1) also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone-acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyl groups (C 1.4). , groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters. Thus, among these copolymers of the family (1), mention may be made of: the copolymers of dimethylaminoethyl acrylamide and methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES, the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in the patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY, the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules, the vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, whether or not quaternized, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by ISP, for example by example, "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755", or the products referred to as "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 9 37 ". These polymers are described in detail in French Pat. Nos. 2,077,143 and 2,393,573, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP, and vinylpyrrolidone copolymers. quaternized dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide, such as in particular the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP; crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with chloride; of methyl, the homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE SC 92" by the company CIBA. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are marketed under the names "SALCARE SC 95" and "SALCARE SC 96" by the company CIBA. (2) cationic polysaccharides, and in particular those chosen from a) derivatives of cellulose ethers containing quaternary ammonium groups described in patent FR 1492597. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group; b) cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer comprising a quaternary ammonium, and described in particular in US Pat. No. 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl-cellulose grafted in particular with a methacryloyloxyethyl salt; trimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl diallylammonium. The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "CELQUAT L 200" and "CELQUAT H 100" by the company National Starch. c) cationic polygalactomannans such as those described in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 by the company MEYHALL; (3) quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole; (4) chitosans or their salts; the salts that can be used are, in particular, chitosan acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrolidonecarboxylate. Among these compounds, mention may be made of chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of 90.5% by weight sold under the name KYTAN BRUT STANDARD by the company ABER TECHNOLOGIES, the pyrrolidone carboxylate of chitosan sold under the name KYTAMER PC by the company AMERCHOL . The anionic polymers generally used are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acid and have a number-average molecular mass of between about 500 and 5,000,000. The carboxylic groups are provided by mono- or di-carboxylic acid monomers. unsaturated compounds, such as those having the formula: wherein n is an integer from 0 to 10, Al denotes a methylene group, optionally attached to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or a neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur, R7 denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group, R8 denotes a hydrogen atom, a group lower alkyl or carboxyl, R9 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group, a -CH2-COOH group, phenyl or benzyl.

In the abovementioned formula, a lower alkyl group preferably denotes a group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular the methyl and ethyl groups. The anionic polymers with preferred carboxylic groups according to the invention are: A) homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their salts and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL E or K by ALLIED COLLOID, and ULTRAHOLD by the company BASF, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salts under the names RETEN 421, 423 or 425 by the company HERCULES, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids. B) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol, and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent No. 1,222,944 and German Application No. 2,330,956, copolymers of this type comprising in their chain an acrylamide unit optionally N-alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated such as described in particular in the Luxembourg patent applications Nos. 75370 and 75371 or proposed under the name QUADRAMER by AMERICAN CYANAMID. Mention may also be made of methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Luvimer 100 P by the company BASF. Mention may also be made of methacrylic acid / acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymers in aqueous dispersion, sold under the name AMERHOLD DR 25 by the company AMERCHOL.

C) Crotonic acid copolymers, such as those comprising in their chain vinyl acetate or propionate units, and optionally other monomers such as allyl or methallyl esters, vinyl ethers or vinyl esters of a saturated carboxylic acid, linear or branched, long hydrocarbon chain, such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers may optionally be grafted or crosslinked, or another vinyl ester, allylic or methallyl monomer of a carboxylic acid a- or (3- Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French Patents 1,222,944, 1,580,545, 2,265,782, 2,265,781, 1,564,110 and 2,439,798. 28-29-30, 26-13-14 and 28-13-10 marketed by the company National Starch D) copolymers of C4-C8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides chosen from: (i) one or more maleic, fumaric and itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer selected from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidified. Such polymers are described in particular in US Pat. Nos. 2,047,398, 2,723,248, 2,102,113 and GB Patent No. 839,805. Commercial products are especially those sold under the names GANTREZ AN or ES by ISP company. copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, citraconic and itaconic anhydride units and (ii) one or more monomers chosen from allyl or methallyl esters optionally containing one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, α-olefin or acrylic or methacrylic ester groups; acrylic or methacrylic acids or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidified.

These polymers are, for example, described in French patents Nos. 2,350,384 and 2,357,241 of the applicant. E) Polyacrylamides having carboxylate groups.

Homopolymers and copolymers comprising sulphonic groups are polymers comprising vinylsulphonic, styrene-sulphonic, naphthalenesulphonic or acrylamidoalkylsulphonic units. These polymers may especially be chosen from: - the salts of polyvinylsulphonic acid having a molecular weight of between about 1,000 and 100,000, as well as copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters, as well as acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone. the salts of polystyrene-sulphonic acid, such as the sodium salts sold, for example, under the names Flexan 500 and Flexan 130 by National Starch. These compounds are described in patent FR 2 198 719. - polyacrylamidesulfonic acid salts such as those mentioned in US Pat. No. 4,128,631, and more particularly the polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulphonic acid sold under the name COSMEDIA POLYMER HSP 1180 by Henkel. Preferably, the anionic polymers are chosen from acrylic acid copolymers such as acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold in particular under the name ULTRAHOLD STRONG by the company BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold in particular under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company National Starch, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters such as methyl vinyl ether / monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold, for example, under the GANTREZ denomination by ISP, methacrylic acid copolymers and methyl methacrylate sold under the name EUDRAGIT L by the company ROHM PHARMA, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer MAEX or MAE by BASF and copolymers vinyl acetate / crotonic acid sold in particular under the name Luviset CA 66 by the company BASF and vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers grafted with polyethylene glycol sold under the name ARISTOFLEX A by the company BASF. Among the anionic polymers mentioned above, it is more particularly preferred to use in the context of the present invention the monoesterified methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers sold under the name Gantrez ES 425 by the company ISP, the terpolymers acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tertiobutylacrylamide sold under the name ULTRAHOLD STRONG by the company BASF, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name EUDRAGIT L by the company ROHM PHARMA, the vinyl acetate terpolymers / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid and the crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by National Starch, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer MAEX or MAE by the company BASF. The amphoteric polymers that can be used in accordance with the invention can be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C statistically distributed in the polymer chain where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a pattern derived from an acidic monomer having one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or B and C may denote groups derived from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or sulfobetaines; B and C may also designate a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulphonic group connected via a hydrocarbon group, or Well B and C are part of a chain of an ethylene-α, β-dicarboxylic-type polymer having one of the carboxylic groups reacted with a polyamine having one or more primary or secondary amine groups.

The amphoteric polymers corresponding to the definition given above, which are more particularly preferred, are chosen from the following polymers: (1) copolymers with acidic vinyl units and with basic vinyl units, such as those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloro acrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as more particularly methacrylate and dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in US Pat. No. 3,836,537. (2) Polymers comprising units derived from: a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by a alkyl group, b) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and c) at least one basic comonomer such as esters with primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.

The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are those compounds whose alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides. The acidic comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic and fumaric acids as well as alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides. Preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl, N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates. The copolymers whose CTFA (4th Ed., 1991) name is octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER or LOVOCRYL 47 by the company National Starch, are particularly used. (3) partially or completely crosslinked polyamino amides derived from poyamino amides of the general formula: embedded image wherein R 10 represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, an aliphatic mono or dicarboxylic acid with an ethylenic double bond; , a lower alkanol ester having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or a group derived from the addition of any of said acids with a bis-primary or bis-secondary amine, and Z denotes a group derived from a bis-primary, mono- or bis-secondary polyalkylenepolyamine and preferably represents a) in the proportions of 60 to 100 mol%, the NH (CH 2) group. NH where x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or x = 3 and p = 2 this group derived from diethylene triamine, triethylene tetraamine or dipropylene triamine; b) in the proportions of 0 to 40 mol%, the group (IX) above, in which x = 2 and p = 1 and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or the group derived from piperazine: ) in the proportions of 0 to 20 mol%, the -NH- (CH 2) 6 -NH- group derived from hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamides being crosslinked by addition reaction of a bifunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives, by means of 0.025 to 0.35 moles of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide, and acylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane -sultone or their salts. The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms such as adipic acid, trimethyl-2,2,4-adipic acid and trimethyl-2,4,4-adipic acid, terephthalic acid, acids with ethylenic double bond such as, for example, acrylic, methacrylic, itaconic acids. The alkane sultones used in the acylation are preferably propane or butane sultone, the salts of the acylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts. (4) polymers comprising zwitterionic units of formula: ## STR1 ## in which R 11 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3, R12 and R13 represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, R14 and R15 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R14 and R15 does not exceed 10.

The polymers comprising such units may also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers, such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate, or

alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl acetate.

By way of example, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate / methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethylmethacrylate copolymers, such as the product sold under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by Sandoz.

(5) polymers derived from chitosan having monomeric units corresponding to the following formulas: ## STR2 ## wherein R 2 is CH 2 OH (CH 2 OH); F) the unit (D) being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the unit (E) in proportions of between 5 and 50% and the unit (F) in proportions of between 30 and 90% being understood that in this unit (F), R16 represents a group of formula:

In which, if q = 0, R 17, R 18 and R 19, which may be identical or different, each represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a residue; dialkylamine optionally interrupted by one or more nitrogen atoms and / or optionally substituted by one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio, sulphonic groups, an alkylthio radical whose alkyl group carries an amino residue, at least one of the groups R17, R18 and R19 being in this case a hydrogen atom; or if q = 1, R 17, R 18 and R 19 each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids. (6) The polymers comprising units corresponding to the general formula (X) are, for example, described in French Patent 1,400,366: R20 (CH 2 CH 2) CH CH COOH CO 1 R NùR 21 R 24 (X) in which R 20 is hydrogen, CH3O, CH3CH2O, phenyl, R21 is hydrogen or lower alkyl such as methyl, ethyl, R22 is hydrogen, or C1-C6 lower alkyl, that methyl, ethyl, R23 denotes a C1-C6 lower alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -R24-N (R22) 2, R24 representing a group -CH2-CH2-, -CH2- CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH (CH 3) -, R 22 having the meanings mentioned above. (7) The polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as N-carboxymethylchitosan or N-carboxybutylchitosan, sold under the name "Evalsan" by Jan Dekker. (8) amphoteric polymers of the type -D-X-D-X selected from:

a) the polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds comprising at least one unit of formula:

-DXDXD- (XI) wherein D denotes a group and X denotes the symbol E or E ', E or E', which may be identical or different, denote a divalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group having up to 7 atoms carbon in the main chain unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxyl groups and which may further comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulphonium, alkylamine, alkenylamine, hydroxyl groups, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide groups, imide, alcohol, ester and / or urethane.

b) polymers of formula: -D-X-D-X- (XII) where D denotes a group / ùN N / and X denotes the symbol E or E 'and at least once E'; E having the meaning indicated above and E 'is a bivalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, substituted or unsubstituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and comprising one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an optionally interrupted alkyl chain with an oxygen atom and necessarily comprising one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betaineized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate. (9) (C1-C5) vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with N, N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semi-esterification with N, N-dialkylaminoalkanol. These copolymers may also comprise other vinylic comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam. Among the amphoteric polymers described above, the most particularly preferred according to the invention are those of the family (3) such as the copolymers whose CTFA name is octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylamino-ethylmethacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names AMPHOMER, AMPHOMER LV 71 or LOVOCRYL 47 by the company National Starch and those of the family (4) such as methyl methacrylate5 / dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethylmethacrylate copolymers sold for example under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by SANDOZ. The nonionic polymers that can be used according to the present invention are chosen, for example, from: homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone; polyalkyloxazolines; homopolymers of vinyl acetate; vinyl acetate copolymers such as, for example, copolymers of vinyl acetate and acrylic ester, copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example, dibutyl maleate; homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic esters such as, for example, copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates such as the products offered by the company Rohm & Haas under the names PRIMAL AC-261 K and EUDRAGIT NE 30 D, by the company BASF under the name 8845, by the company HOECHST under the name APPRETAN N9212; copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer chosen, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth) acrylates; mention may be made of the products sold under the name CJ 0601 B by the company Rohm &Haas; homopolymers of styrene; styrene copolymers such as, for example, styrene and alkyl (meth) acrylate copolymers such as Mowilith LDM 6911, Mowilith DM 611 and Mowilith LDM 6070 products supplied by Hoechst, RHODOPAS SD 215 and RHODOPAS DS 910 offered by RHODIA CHIMIE; copolymers of styrene, alkyl methacrylate and alkyl acrylate; copolymers of styrene and butadiene; or copolymers of styrene, butadiene and vinylpyridine; polyamides; homopolymers of vinyllactam different from homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as polyvinylcaprolactam sold under the name Luviskol PLUS by the company BASF; and copolymers of vinyllactam such as a poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec VPC 55K65W by the company BASF, polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, such as those sold under the name PVPVA S630L by the ISP company, Luviskol VA 73, VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 28 by BASF; and poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate / vinyl propionate) terpolymers such as, for example, that marketed under the name Luviskol VAP 343 by the company BASF. The alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above preferably have from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use, as polymers, functionalized or non-silicone or non-silicone, cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, or mixtures thereof. The polyurethanes particularly targeted by the present invention are those described in the applications EP 0 751 162, EP 0 637 600, EP 0 648 485 and FR 2 743 297 of which the applicant is the holder, as well as in the applications EP 0 656 021 and WO 94/03510 of the company BASF, and EP 0 619 111 of the company National Starch. As polyurethanes particularly suitable in the present invention, mention may be made of the products sold under the names LUVISET PUR and LUVISET Si PUR by the company BASF. Polymers other than carrageenan lambda type polysaccharides may also be synthetic associative or non-associative thickening polymers. Mention may be made especially of cross-linked acrylic acid homopolymers (INCI name: CARBOMER) and nonionic or anionic associative polyurethanes, such as compounds ACULYN 44 and 46, and VISCOPHOBE DB 1000. The polymer or polymers other than carrageenan-type polysaccharides The lambda described above generally represent from 0 to 20%, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. As explained above, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more surfactants.

The surfactant (s) optionally present in the composition according to the invention may be anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, zwitterionic or cationic surfactants. Surfactants suitable for the implementation of the present invention are notably the following: (i) anionic surfactant (s):

By way of example of anionic surfactants which may be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (nonlimiting list) of the salts (in particular alkaline salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkyl aryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; (C6-C24) alkylsulphosuccinates, (C6-C4) alkylsulfosuccinates, (C6-C4) alkylamidesulfosuccinates; (C6-C24) alkyl sulphoacetates; acyl (C6-Cz4) sarcosinates and acyl (C6-C4) glutamates. It is also possible to use (C6-C24) alkyl polyglycoside carboxylic esters such as alkylglucoside citrates, alkylpolyglycoside tartrate and alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinamates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants that can still be used, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; acyl lactylates whose acyl radical has 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkyl carboxylic ether acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) aryl ether carboxylic acids, (C6-C24) alkyl amido acids. polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic ether and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, and mixtures thereof.

(ii) Nonionic surfactant (s): Nonionic surfactants are also well-known compounds per se (see in particular in this connection "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions ( Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178). Thus, they may be chosen in particular from (non-limiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, polyethoxylated alkylphenols, polypropoxylated, having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide groups or propylene oxide which may range from 2 to 50. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkylglucosamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14) alkyl oxides or oxides N-acylaminopropylmorpholine. Mention may also be made of alkylpolyglucosides.

Mention may in particular be made of stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol and polysorbate 20. Amongst the polyalkylglucosides, mention may be made, for example, of the products sold by HENKEL under the name APG, such as the APG 300, APG 350 products, APG 500, APG 550, APG 625, APG base 10-12; the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the trade names TRITON CG 110 (or ORAMIX CG 110) and TRITON CG 312 (or ORAMIX NS 10); those sold by B.A.F. under the name LUTENSOL GD 70; sold by HENKEL under the names PLANTAREN 1200, PLANTAREN 1300, PLANTAREN 2000, and PLANTACARE 2000, PLANTACARE 818, PLANTACARE 1200.

(iii) Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s): The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, the nature of which does not take place in the context of the present invention of a critical nature, may especially be (non-limiting list) aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives, wherein the aliphatic radical is a straight or branched chain having 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (eg carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate; mention may also be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6) alkyl betaines or (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6) alkyl sulfobetaines. amines, mention may be made of the products sold under the name MIRANOL, as described in patents US Pat. No. 2,528,378 and US Pat. No. 2,781,354 and filed in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names Amphitol. ocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates of respective structures: R2 -CONHCH2CH2 -N (R3) (R4) (CH2000O-) in which: R2 denotes a linear or branched C5-C20 alkyl radical derived, for example, from a R2-COOH acid present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R3 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R4 a carboxymethyl group; and R2'-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (C) wherein: B represents -CH2CH2OX ', C represents - (CH2) z -Y', with z = 1 or 2, X 'denotes the group -CH2CH2-COOH or a hydrogen atom Y 'denotes -COOH or the radical -CH2 -CHOH -SO3H R2' denotes a linear or branched, saturated or non-saturated C5-C20 alkyl radical of an R9 -COOH acid present, for example, in the coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, especially C7, C9, C11 or C13, a C17 alkyl radical and its iso form, an unsaturated C17 radical.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic Acid, Cocoamphodipropionic Acid . By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOL C2M concentrated by Rhodia Chimie. (iv) Cationic surfactants:

Among the cationic surfactants, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list) of the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides; imidazoline derivatives; or oxides of amines with a cationic character. Mention may in particular be made of methyl alkyl alkylamidoethyl imidazolinium methosulphate (Quaternium-87) marketed by Degussa under the reference VARISOFT W 575 PG, or behenyltrimethylammonium chloride marketed by Clariant under the reference GENAMIN KDMP. There may also be mentioned cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride. It is also possible to use as cationic surfactants the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula XIII: ## STR2 ## ## STR2 ## -R23 X-R22 (XIII) in which: R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl radicals and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals R23 is chosen from: OII - radical R26-C- - hydrocarbon radicals R27 C1-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: OII - the radical R28ùC - R29 hydrocarbon radicals C1-C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon radicals; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 is R29. The alkyl radicals R22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R 23 is a hydrocarbon radical R 27, it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 radical, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon radicals, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or saturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals. or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are 2 or 3, and even more particularly are 2. The anion is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkylsulfate more particularly methylsulfate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The X- anion is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate.

In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (XIII) are used more particularly in which: R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical,

- x and y are equal to 1; -z is unequal to ooul;

- r, set are equal to 2;

- R23 is chosen from O I I - the R26-C- radical - methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon radicals, - the hydrogen atom

R 25 is chosen from O I I - the radical R 28 C - - the hydrogen atom

- R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon radicals;

or unsaturated, and preferably from alkyl and alkenyl radicals

C13-C17, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear.

There may be mentioned, for example, the compounds of formula (XIII) such as the salts (especially chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl- dimethyl ammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl radicals preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl radical, the latter may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification. of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably methyl or ethyl) or methane sulphonate. methyl, methyl paratoluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are for example sold under the names DEHYQUART by Henkel, STEPANQUAT by STEPAN, NOXAMIUM by CECA, REWOQUAT WE 18 by REWO-WITCO. The composition according to the invention preferably contains a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. As a mixture of ammonium salts, it is possible to use, for example, the mixture containing 15 to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulfate, 45 to 60% of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium methyl sulfate and 15 to 30% triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulfate, acyl radicals having from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and from partially partially hydrogenated palm oil. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. The surfactant or surfactants generally represent from 0 to 20%, preferably from 0.05 to 10%, more preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition. As explained above, the composition according to the invention may contain one or more preferably non-silicone fatty substances such as vegetable, animal, mineral and synthetic oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and waxes.

By fatty alcohol is meant in the sense of the present invention, any pure saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohol, linear or branched having at least 8 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH, in which R denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated radical containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30; R preferably denotes a C12-C24 alkyl or C12-C24 alkenyl group. R may be substituted with one or more hydroxy groups. As examples of fatty alcohols, mention may be made of lauryl, cetyl, dodecyl, decyl, stearyl, oleic, behenic, linoleic, undecylenic, palmitoleic, arachidonic, erucic alcohols and mixtures thereof. The fatty alcohol can be a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that in a commercial product can coexist several species of fatty alcohols in the form of a mixture. As a mixture of fatty alcohols, there may be mentioned cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Advantageously, the non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol is solid or pasty at a temperature of 25 ° C. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid or pasty fatty alcohol" means a fatty alcohol having a viscosity measured with a rheometer with a shear rate of 1% greater than or equal to 1 Pa · s. Preferably, the fatty alcohols used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol. By fatty acids is meant in the sense of the present invention, any pure carboxylic acid saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched having at least 8 carbon atoms. As examples of fatty acid, mention may be made of lauric acid and oleic acid.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain one or more cosmetic adjuvants chosen from fibers, such as cotton or bamboo fibers, mineral particles, perfumes, floral waters, essential oils, plasticizers, non-polymeric polyols other than unmodified monosaccharides comprising a 5-membered ring and unmodified disaccharides comprising at least one 5-membered ring, sunscreens, alkalizing agents, acidifying agents, preservatives, permanent or temporary dyes, mineral fillers, flakes, conditioners, defoamers, moisturizers, humectants, emollients, non-polymeric thickeners, peptizers, ceramides, pseudo-ceramides, vitamins and provitamins , proteins, sequestering agents, solubilizing agents, oxidizing agents, corrosion and reducing agents or antioxidants. As mineral particles that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of particles containing at least 10% by weight of at least one silicate, preferably particles of at least one silicate, glass particles, particles containing at least 10% by weight of calcium carbonate, the particles containing at least 90% by weight of aluminum oxide, silicas, magnesium oxide, zinc oxides, titanium oxides and sulphate of barium. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose any adjuvants and their amount so that they do not affect the properties of the composition according to the invention. By cosmetically acceptable medium is meant a medium compatible with keratin materials and in particular the hair. The cosmetically acceptable medium comprises water or a mixture of water and a cosmetically acceptable solvent.

The cosmetically acceptable solvent is chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, polyols, polyol ethers, C5-C10 alkanes, C3-C4 ketones, C1-C4 alkyl acetates, dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane, and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention may be in the form of cream, paste or preferably in the form of foam (aerosol or not), or gel. When the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a foam, it can be packaged in an aerosol. In this case, it comprises one or more propellants. The propellant (s) is (are) chosen from non-liquefied compressed gases, such as air, nitrogen, nitrous oxide, carbon dioxide or dimethyl ether, or from liquefied gases such as volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, isobutane, propane, pentane and halogenated hydrocarbons. For example, a mixture of one or more volatile hydrocarbons can be used with dimethyl ether. The foam can still be obtained without thruster by means of a pump bottle. The composition according to the invention may also be washing, and may comprise a washing base known to those skilled in the art, preferably containing more than 4% of at least one preferably anionic surfactant. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising the application to the keratinous fibers, preferably the hair, of a cosmetic composition as defined above. The present invention finally relates to the use of a cosmetic composition for styling hair. The invention is illustrated by the following nonlimiting examples.

EXAMPLES

Example 1 Cosmetic compositions according to the invention are prepared in the form of styling foams. The compositions 1, 3 and 4 are delivered by an aerosol device, and the composition 2 is delivered by a foam pump device.

The formulations of compositions 1, 2, 3 and 4 are given in Table 1. The contents are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Table 1 1 2 3 4 Carrageenan Lambda 0, there 1% 1% (SATIAGUM UTC 10 ù 2% 10% DEGUSSA, WELGEENAN ED1039 EUROGUM) Surfactant (Polysorbate-20, 0.01 to 1% 1% Alkylpolyglycoside) 1% Polymer fixing 1 to 1% 1% (Polyvinylpyrrolidone) 10% Sucrose or fructose 2% 1% 1% 4% honey 5% 7% 3% Denatured alcohol 0 to 20% O to 20% Preservatives, Neutralizer, QS QS QS QS Perfume Propellant gas 2 to 10% 5% 5% (Hydrocarbons, CO2, nitrous oxide, etc.) Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 The compositions 1 to 4 give the hair an improved level of fixation, and better durability over time.

Example 2

Cosmetic compositions according to the invention are prepared in the form of styling gels. The formulations of compositions 5, 6, 7 and 8 are given in Table 2. The contents are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Table 2 6 7 8 Carrageenan Lambda 1 to 10% 1 to 2% 2% (SATIAGUM UTC 10 - 10% DEGUSSA, WELGEENAN ED1039 EUROGUM) Starch hydrolyzate 0.1 to 5% 5% (dextrin, maltodextrin) ) 10% 10% Mg Li Na Laponite 0, 1 to 0, 1 to 5% 5% (Laponite XLG - DEGUSSA) 10% 10% Sucrose or fructose 5% 4% 2.5% 5% Honey 2% 5% 2.5% Surfactant (Polysorbate-20, 0.5% 0.1 to 0.5% 0.5% Alkyl polyglucoside) 1% Polymer fixing there 1% 1% (Polyvinylpyrrolidone) Io% Denatured alcohol 0 to 20% O to 2 % 2% 20% Silicone (Dimethicone, 0-20% Dimethiconol) Cations (0-2% 2% 2% 2% trimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride) Preservatives, Neutralizer, QS QS QS QS Perfume Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 compositions 5 to 8 give the hair an improved level of fixation, and better durability.

Claims (16)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: one or more carrageenan type lambda polysaccharides, and one or more compounds chosen from unmodified monosaccharide ketoses and unmodified disaccharides containing at least one unit derived from a ketosis. 2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the molecular weight (MW) of carrageenan lambda type polysaccharide (s) is between 100,000 and 1,000,000, preferably between 250,000 and 800,000. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the carrageenan lambda polysaccharide or polysaccharides represent from 0.01 to 30%, preferably from 0.1 to 20%, more preferably from 1 to 10%. more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the unmodified monosaccharide ketoses are chosen from fructose, sorbose, tagatose, psicose, ribulose, xylulose and erythrulose. 5. Composition according to the preceding claim characterized in that the unmodified monosaccharide ketose is fructose. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 characterized in that the unmodified disaccharides containing at least one unit derived from a ketose are chosen from sucrose, isomaltulose, turanose, trehalulose, leucrose, lactulose and inulobiose. 7. Composition according to the preceding claim characterized in that the unmodified disaccharide containing at least one unit derived from a ketose is sucrose. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound (s) chosen from unmodified monosaccharide ketoses and unmodified disaccharides containing at least one unit derived from a ketosis generally represent from 0.01 to 30%. preferably from 0.5 to 25%, better still from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of polysaccharide (s) carrageenan type lamda / compound (s) selected (s) among unmodified monosaccharide ketoses and unmodified disaccharides containing at least one pattern resulting from a ketosis is between 0.01 and 10 and preferably between 0.05 and 1. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one additive chosen from silicones, fatty substances, polymers other than carrageenan lambda type polysaccharides and surfactants. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more cosmetic adjuvants chosen from fibers, mineral particles, perfumes, floral waters, essential oils, plasticizers, nonpolymeric polyols. different from unmodified monosaccharides comprising a 5-membered ring and unmodified disaccharides comprising at least one 5-membered ring, sunscreens, basifying agents, acidifying agents, preservatives, permanent or temporary dyes, mineral fillers, flakes, conditioning agents, defoamers, moisturizers, humectants, emollients, non-polymeric thickeners, peptizers, ceramides, pseudo-ceramides, vitamins and provitamins, proteins , sequestering agents, solubilizing agents, oxidizing agents, anti-oxidizing agents, corrosion and reducing agents or antioxidants. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetically acceptable medium comprises water or a mixture of water and a cosmetically acceptable solvent. 13. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that the cosmetically acceptable solvent is chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, polyols, polyol ethers, C5-C10 alkanes, C3-C4 ketones and acetates. C1-C4 alkyl, dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane, and mixtures thereof. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of foam, aerosol or not, or gel. 15. Cosmetic treatment process characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratinous fibers, preferably the hair, of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims. 16. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14 for styling hair.