FR2921261A1 - ANHYDROUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING FIBERS - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the invention is an anhydrous composition comprising an oily phase and a pulverulent phase, the said pulverulent phase comprising 15 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one pigment, fibers, and minus an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder, and said oily phase comprising at least one hydrocarbon dispersing agent chosen from ether-modified fatty alcohols, synthetic esters resulting from the formation of fatty acid and alcohol or polyols, esters partial reactions resulting from the reaction of at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, ricinoleic acid or 12-hydroxystearic acid with at least one sugar (sucrose or polysucrose), the adducts of the ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil, trialkyl phosphates and alkylated mono, di and triphosphate, and mixtures thereof.

Description

The present invention relates to an anhydrous makeup composition for the skin of both the face and the human body, in particular foundations, blushes, eyeshadows, correctors of complexion.

Traditional make-up products such as, for example, blushes, eyeshadows, foundations, concealer or lipsticks, improve the aesthetics by giving more relief to the face, eyes and lips, and unifying their color. They usually contain pigments and fillers.

In the field of complexion, one of the main expectations of consumers is to have a makeup unifying the complexion, camouflaging areas of the skin with color irregularities such as stains or depigmented areas, while remaining little perceptible to the eye, to obtain the most natural effect possible.

When the skin has pigmentary disorders such as spots or hypo or hyperpigmented areas (respectively corresponding to lighter or darker areas of the skin), it is necessary that the makeup has sufficient coverage to hide effectively all these defects . In this case, it is often necessary to introduce a high level of pigments.

However, the higher the pigment content, the more the texture of the composition becomes pasty and therefore difficult to spread. The deposit obtained is then drier and less homogeneous. In addition, the pasty texture is often uncomfortable for the user during and after the application of the composition to the skin. In addition, the high content of pulverulent materials often results in an unnatural powdery effect that consumers want to avoid.

On the other hand, the high level of pigments accentuates the stability problems of the composition during its storage over time. Indeed, the pigments have a tendency to sediment and an important over-oiling can appear. Such instability of the composition is not acceptable to the user.

There is therefore a need for makeup compositions that effectively conceal skin color defects (especially hypo or hyperpigment spots and areas) and have a texture that is sufficiently fluid to allow easy application to the skin. while being stable in storage.

It is known from patent application EP-A-1736140, a composition comprising an oily phase comprising a volatile oil; a pulverulent phase comprising at least 25% by weight of pigments, and an oil thickening agent. Because of their very high content of 40 pigments, these compositions often confer an opaque makeup, pronounced and visible powdery appearance, which is not close to the natural grain of the skin.

However, the lower the pigment content in these compositions, the lower the hiding power of the composition. The applicant has discovered that it is possible to obtain a fluid creamy composition effectively camouflaging skin color defects without giving an unnatural powdery effect. Such a composition can be obtained by combining fibers, elastomeric organopolysiloxane particles and a particular hydrocarbon dispersant. More specifically, the present invention relates to an anhydrous make-up composition of the skin of the face or of the human body, making it possible to effectively and homogeneously cover skin color defects while maintaining a texture. creamy, pleasant to use and leading to a makeup with good coverage and good performance, including good color and coverage of skin defects.

In particular, said composition has good spreading properties, in particular allowing the user to have sufficient time to apply the cosmetic product to the skin during its application. It also has good stability over time.

The subject of the invention is also, according to a first aspect, an anhydrous composition comprising an oily phase and a pulverulent phase, the said pulverulent phase comprising 15 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one pigment, fibers, and at least one elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder, and said oil phase comprising at least one hydrocarbon dispersing agent selected from ether modified fatty alcohols, synthetic esters resulting from the formation of fatty acid and alcohol or polyols, partial esters resulting from the reaction of at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, ricinoleic acid or 12-hydroxystearic acid, with at least one sugar (sucrose or polysucrose), adducts of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil, trialkyl phosphates and alkylated mono, di and triphosphate, and mixtures thereof.

The subject of the invention is, according to a second aspect, an anhydrous composition comprising an oily phase and a pulverulent phase, the said pulverulent phase comprising 15 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one pigment , fibers, and at least one elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder, and said oil phase comprising at least one hydrocarbon dispersing agent which has the solubility parameters bd and ba satisfying the following conditions: 16.2 <_dd <_20 (J / cm3) 112 and 9.1 <_6a <_20 (J / cm3) 112 In particular, the compositions according to the invention impart a matte finish when applied to the skin.

The subject of the invention is also, according to a third aspect, a process for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising applying to said keratinous materials at least one composition as defined above.

Finally, the invention relates to the use of a composition as described above for blurring and / or camouflaging the inhomogeneities of skin color, especially dark circles, redness, blemishes or scars.

Anhydrous Composition The composition according to the present invention is an anhydrous composition.

For the purposes of the present application, the term "anhydrous composition" means a composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 2% by weight of water. More preferably still, the composition is free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.

Powdery phase

The composition according to the invention comprises a pulverulent phase comprising at least fibers, elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles and pigments. fibers

The composition according to the invention comprises fibers. By "fiber" is meant an object of length L and diameter D such that L is greater than D, and preferably much greater than D, where D is the diameter of the circle in which the section of the fiber is inscribed. . In particular, the L / D ratio (or form factor) is chosen in the range from 3.5 to 2500, preferably from 5 to 500, and more preferably from 5 to 150. The fibers which can be used in the composition of the The invention may be fibers of synthetic or natural, mineral or organic origin, and they may be flexible or rigid. They can be short or long, unitary or organized, for example braided. Their shape can be any and in particular of circular or polygonal section (square, hexagonal or octagonal) depending on the specific application envisaged. In particular, their ends are blunt and / or polished to avoid injury.

According to a preferred embodiment, their shape is of circular section.

In particular, the fibers have a length of from 1 μm to 10 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and more preferably from 0.1 mm to 3 mm. They have a section in a circle with a diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 μm, preferably ranging from 100 nm to 100 μm. The weight of the fibers is often given in denier or decitex.

The fibers may be those used in the manufacture of textiles, and in particular silk, cotton, wool, flax fibers, cellulose fibers extracted from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide fibers (nylon, for example). , especially under the names nylon 6 = nylon 6, nylon 6,6 or nylon 66 = nylon 6,6, nylon 12 = polyamide 12), rayon, viscose, acetate including rayon acetate, acetate cellulose or silk acetate, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide, acrylic polymer, especially polymethyl methacrylate or poly-2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, polyolefin fibers and in particular polyethylene or polypropylene fibers, glass fibers silica, carbon, especially in graphite form, polytetrafluoroethylene (such as Teflon), insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, pol yurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers such as those mentioned above, such as polyamide / polyester fibers, trilobe.and mixtures of these fibers.

Surgical fibers such as resorbable synthetic fibers prepared from glycolic acid and caprolactone (Monocryl from Johnson & Johnson) can also be used; resorbable synthetic fibers of the copolymer type of lactic acid and glycolic acid (Vicryl from Johnson &Johnson); terephthalic polyester fibers (Ethibond from Johnson & Johnson) and stainless steel wires (Steel from Johnson & Johnson). In addition, the fibers may or may not be treated on the surface, coated or not. As coated fibers that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of polyamide fibers coated with copper sulphide for an antistatic effect (for example the R-STAT fibers from Rhodia) or fibers coated with another polymer allowing for an organization particular fibers (specific surface treatment) or surface treatment inducing color effects / holograms (Lurex fiber from Sildorex, for example).

The fibers that can be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from polyamide fibers, cellulose fibers, polyethylene fibers and their mixtures. Their length may range from 0.1 to 5 mm, preferably from 0.25 to 1.6 mm, and their average diameter may range from 5 to 50 μm.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fibers are chosen from nylon 6 (or polyamide 6), nylon 6,6 or nylon 66 (or polyamide 6,6), nylon 12 (or polyamide 12) fibers. ) and their mixtures.

In particular, it is possible to use the polyamide fibers marketed by Etablissements P. Bonte under the name Polyamide 0.9 Dtex 0.3 mm (INCI name: nylon 6.6), having an average diameter of 6 μm, a weight of approximately 0.9 dtex. and a length ranging from 0.3 mm to 3 mm, or else the polyamide fibers sold under the name Fiberlon 931-D1-S by LCW, having a title of about 0.9 dtex and a length of about 0.3 mm. It is also possible to use the nylon-66 fibers having a titer of approximately 2 Dtex and a length of approximately 0.3 mm, sold under the name Trilobal glossy polyamide by the company Utexbel (INCI name: Nylon-66).

It is also possible to use cellulosic (or rayon) fibers having an average diameter of 50 μm and a length ranging from 0.5 mm to 6 mm, such as those sold under the name "Natural Ray Flock Fiber RC1 BE-N003-M04". "by Claremont Flock. It is also possible to use polyethylene fibers such as those sold under the name "Shurt Stuff 13,099 F" by the company Mini Fibers.

The fibers may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition. Particles of organo olysiloxane crosslinked elastomer

The composition according to the invention comprises particles of organopolysiloxane crosslinked elastomer.

The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and diorganopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst; or by condensation-crosslinking dehydrogenation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condenstation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of oranopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.

Preferably, the crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups (in particular vinyl groups ) linked to silicon, in particular in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in application EP-A-295886.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.

The compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A) with the compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C).

The compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule. The compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.

The compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, especially to be well miscible with the compound (B).

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

The compound (A) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane cyclic copolymers.

The compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched chain, linear chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear chain structure is preferred. The compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, the compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C.

The organopolysiloxane (B) can be selected from methylvinylsiloxanes, the methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane terminations 50 dimethylvinylsiloxy, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane trimethylsiloxy end-groups, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxane, and dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers .

In addition to the aforementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in the compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

The organopolysiloxane (B) can be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, the methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, copolymers terminated dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane trimethylsiloxy end groups, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxane, and dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A) is at least 5.

It is advantageous that the compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all the groups to Ethylenic unsaturation in the compound (B) is in the range of 1.5: 1 to 20: 1.

Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum. on support.

The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A) and ( B).

Such elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles are in particular described in applications JP-A-61-194009, EP-A-242219 and EP-A-381166. Advantageously, the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane used in the compositions according to the invention is non-emulsifying. The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing polyoxyalkylene units. As elastomers in powder form, it is possible to use those sold under the names "DC9505" and "DC 9506" by the company Dow Corning.

The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles may be present in the composition according to the invention in an active material content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 5% by weight. Pieces The composition according to the invention comprises pigments. By pigments, it is necessary to include particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the liquid organic phase, intended to color the composition.

The pigments may be inorganic or organic pigments. As pigments, it is possible to use metal oxides such as iron oxides (in particular those of yellow, red, brown or black color), titanium dioxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide and chromium oxide. ; manganese violet, blue ultramarine, prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, bismuth oxychloride, mother-of-pearl, mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, in particular, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride, and their mixtures. It is preferable to use pigments of iron oxides or of titanium dioxide.

The pigments can be treated with a hydrophobic agent to make them compatible with the organic phase of the composition. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amines; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zin, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The alkyl term mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 atoms. of carbon. Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-1086683.

The pigments may be present in the composition according to the invention, in a content ranging from 15 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 20 to 35% by weight, more preferably ranging from at 30% by weight.

Additional particles

The composition according to the invention may comprise additional particles different from the pigments, fibers and particles of organopolysiloxane elastomeric crosslink described above. The additional particles may be chosen from pulverulent dyestuffs other than pigments, fillers, and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention may therefore comprise dyestuffs and / or fillers. The pulverulent dyestuff other than the pigments may be chosen in particular from nacres and / or additional dyes.

By nacres, it is necessary to include iridescent particles, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized, insoluble in the medium of the composition. The nacres may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

Fat-soluble dyes include generally organic compounds soluble in fats such as oils. Liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan Red, D & C Red No. 17, D & C Green No. 6, 6-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow No. 11, D & C Purple No. 2, D & C orange No. 5, yellow quinoline, annatto, bromoacids.

The nacres and / or additional dyes may be present in each of the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, and preferably ranging from 3% to 10% by weight. By fillers, it is necessary to include particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (nylon) powders, poly-R-alanine powders, polyethylene powders, polymethylmethacrylates, polyurethane powders such as copolymer powder of hexamethylene diisocyanate and trimethylol hexyl lactone sold under the names PLASTIC POWDER D-400 by TOSHIKI, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride copolymers of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin powders, in particular silsesquioxane powders (silicone resin powders, in particular described in patent EP 293795; Toshiba's Tospearls, by for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, silica microspheres uses, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate; zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; barium sulphate and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise at least one filler having a density of less than 0.2 g / cm 3. In particular, the density is between 0.01 and 0.2 g / cm 3, preferably between 0.05 and 0.1 g / cm 3.

To obtain this low density, it is advantageous to use fillers consisting of expanded polymers or copolymers preferably based on acrylonitrile and on an acrylic or styrene monomer and / or vinylidene chloride.

For example, a copolymer containing: from 0 to 60% of units derived from vinylidene chloride (in particular from 0.1 to 60%), from 20% to 90% of units derived from acrylonitrile and from 0 to 50% can be used. of units derived from an acrylic or styrenic monomer (in particular from 0.1 to 50%), the sum of the percentages (by weight) being equal to 100. The acrylic monomer is, for example, a methyl or ethyl acrylate or methacrylate . The styrenic monomer is, for example, α-methylstyrene or styrene.

Preferably, the fillers having a density of less than 0.2 g / cm 3 used in the compositions according to the present invention are hollow particles of an expanded copolymer of vinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile or vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methacrylate.

The particles of the invention can be obtained, for example, according to the processes of patents and patent applications EP-56219, EP-348372, EP-486080, EP-320473, EP-112807 and US-3615972.

The internal cavity of the particles in principle contains a gas which may be air, nitrogen or a hydrocarbon such as isobutane or isopentane.

Advantageously, the fillers having a density of less than 0.2 g / cm 3 have a particle size ranging from 1 μm to 80 μm and more preferably from 10 μm to 50 μm, and more preferably from 10 μm to 30 μm.

The fillers having a density of less than 0.2 g / cm 3 in the compositions according to the invention are, for example, the microspheres of expanded terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methacrylate, sold under the trademark Expancel by Nobel Casco. under the references 551 DE 50 (particle size of about 40 μm), 551 DE (particle size of about 30 μm and density of about 65 kg / m3), 551 DE 12 (particle size of about 12 μm), 551 μm. DE 80 (particle size about 80 μm), 461 DE 50 (particle size about 50 μm). It is also possible to use microspheres formed from the same expanded terpolymer having a particle size of about 18 μm and a density of about 70 kg / m 3, referred to below as EL 23, or having a particle size of about 34 μm and a mass volume of about 20 kg / m3, referred to below as EL 43.

In the compositions of the invention, use is preferably made of 0.05% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of fillers having a density of less than 0.2 g / cm 3, preferably of 0, 1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight.

The fillers may be present in each of the compositions according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight. weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight.

Fatty phase

Aqent hydrocarbon dispersant

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon dispersing agent. The hydrocarbon dispersing agent used in the composition according to the invention makes it possible to avoid agglomeration or flocculation of the dispersed particles. By hydrocarbon compound is meant a compound comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic, amide functions. The hydrocarbon dispersing agent of the invention is devoid of fluorine atoms. This agent carries one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed.

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon dispersant does not comprise a silicon atom.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon dispersing agent (hereinafter referred to as a hydrocarbon dispersant) of the composition according to the invention is fluid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.), and in particular liquid and / or has a refractive index of 1.45. at 20 ° C (the refractive index being measured by refractometer). According to a first aspect of the invention, the hydrocarbon dispersant according to the invention can be chosen from:

ether-modified fatty alcohols and in particular adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with i) a linear or branched fatty alcohol or with ii) an alkylphenol,

synthetic esters resulting from the formation of fatty acid and alcohol or polyols, especially the following esters: i) Partial esters resulting from the reaction of at least one C8-C40 fatty acid, and better still C8 -C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, a ricinoleic acid or a 12-hydroxystearic acid, with at least one polyol such as glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, saccharide alcohols such as sorbitol, and in particular: a) glycerol or polyglycerol esters such as polyglycerol-3 diisostearate, glycerol monoisostearate and, polyglycerol-2 monoisostearate, polyglycerol-3 isostearate, isostearate of polyglycerol-4, polyglycerol-6 monoisostearate, polyglycerol-10 monoisostearate, polyglycerol-2 monooleate;

(b) esters resulting from the reaction of at least one fatty acid with at least one adduct of ethylene oxide and glycerol or with at least one adduct of ethylene oxide and polyglycerol, such as, in particular, polyglycerol-2 monoisostearate oxyethylenated with 5 OE;

c) the esters resulting from the reaction of glycerol or polyglycerol with at least one addition product of ethylene oxide and a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid,

d) the esters resulting from the reaction of sorbitan with at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, such as in particular sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan monooleate,

e) linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid oligomers, such as, in particular, oligomeric stearate of 12-hydroxystearic acid, known under the name INCI Polyhydroxystearic acid;

f) the monoester resulting from the reaction of hexitol anhydrides (comprising 6 oxygen atoms) derived from sorbitol and stearic acid, known under the name INCI sorbitan stearate,

G) the modified esters of sorbitan ether, and in particular the resulting esters iii) the reaction of sorbitan with at least one addition product of ethylene oxide and a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid or iv) reacting at least one saturated or unsaturated fatty acid with at least one adduct of ethylene oxide and sorbitan, such as, in particular, 5EO oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate; 30

(ii) Partial esters resulting from the reaction of at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, ricinoleic acid or 12-hydroxystearic acid with at least one sugar or sugar derivative (sucrose or polysucrose) such as in particular polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate;

adducts of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil, trialkylated phosphates and alkylated mono, di and triphosphates, and mixtures thereof.

The word ester according to the invention means a monoester, a diester, a triester and more generally a polyester. Preferably, the hydrocarbon dispersant is chosen from monoesters, diesters and esters resulting from a partial esterification, that is to say that the final ester comprises one or more free -OH functions.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon dispersant is chosen from: the adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with i) a linear or branched fatty alcohol from CO to C40, and better still from CO to C22 or with (ii) an alkylphenol, - the esters resulting from the reaction of at least one fatty acid from CO to C40, and better still from CO to C22, with at least one product of addition of from 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and glycerol or with at least one adduct of from 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and polyglycerol, the esters resulting from the reaction of glycerol or polyglycerol with at least one adduct of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and a saturated or unsaturated C8 to C40 fatty acid, and more preferably of CO to C22, - the partial esters resulting from the reaction at least one linear or branched fatty acid, saturated or unsaturated with CO to C40 and better still with CO to C22, ricinoleic acid or 12-hydroxylic acid ystearic, with glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol or sorbitol, - the esters resulting from the reaction of sorbitan with at least one linear or branched fatty acid, saturated or unsaturated with CO to C40 and better still with CO to C22, - the resulting esters iii) the reaction of sorbitan with at least one adduct of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid of CO to C40 and better still of CO to C22 or iv) the reaction of at least one saturated or unsaturated fatty acid from CO to C40 and better still from CO to C22, with at least one adduct of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and sorbitan, - the monoester as a result of the reaction of hexitol anhydrides (comprising 6 oxygen atoms) derived from sorbitol and stearic acid, known as INCI sorbitan stearate, - adducts of 2 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil, - trialkyl phosphate and mono, alkyl di and triphosphate, and mixtures thereof. According to a second aspect of the invention, the hydrocarbon dispersant may in particular have solubility parameters 8d and 8a according to the Hansen solubility space satisfying the following conditions:

16.2 ≤8d (20) (J / cm3) 112, preferably 16.3 _8d (19) (J / cm3) 112, and more preferably 16.9 _8d (18) (J / cm3) 112 and 9.1 <8a. <20 (J / cm3) 12, preferably 10 <8a <18.1 (J / cm3) 1'2, and more preferably 13 <8a <_14.5 (J / cm3) 112 knowing that 6a = (8p2 The definition of the solubility parameters according to HANSEN is well known to those skilled in the art, and in particular described in the article by CM HANSEN: "The three dimensional solubility 40 parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). These parameters are also described in KAO JP-A-08-109121 and the document by D.W. Van KREVELEN "Properties of Polymers" (1990), p. 190 °

According to this HANSEN space: 45 - 8d characterizes the LONDON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; - 8p characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles; 8h characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor type, etc.) The parameters bd, 8p and 6h are generally expressed in (J / cm3) 112. They are determined at room temperature (25 ° C.) and in particular according to the calculation method indicated in the KAO patent document above.

In the composition according to the invention, any hydrocarbon dispersant which is fluid at room temperature (25 ° C.), and in particular liquid, or a mixture of fluid hydrocarbon dispersants satisfying the above relations, may be used. In this case, the solubility parameters of the mixture are determined from those of the fluid hydrocarbon dispersants taken separately, according to the following relations: SDmel = Xi 8Di Spmel = Xi Spi and Shmel = Xi Shi where xi represents the volume fraction of the hydrocarbon dispersant fluid (i) in the mixture.

It is within the abilities of those skilled in the art to determine the quantities of each fluid hydrocarbon dispersant to obtain a mixture of fluid hydrocarbon dispersants satisfying the above relations.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon dispersant has a chemical structure comprising at least one polar group chosen from -COOH; -OH ; ethylene oxide: - (O-CH 2 -CH 2 -); propylene oxide - (O-fH-CH 2 -); CH3

PO4; NHR; NR1R2 with R1, R2 optionally forming a ring and representing a linear or branched C1 to C20 alkyl or alkoxy radical or R2 with R1 'and R2' which may be equal to H or to a linear or branched C1 to C8 alkyl or alkoxy chain C2o.

According to a third embodiment, the hydrocarbon dispersant may have solubility parameters 8d and 8a according to the Hansen solubility space satisfying the following conditions:

16.2 ≤6d≤20 (J / cm3), preferably 16.3 ≤6d (J / cm3) / 2, and more preferably 16.9 +16 (J / cm3) V2 and 9. 1, _6a <_20 (J / cm3) '12, preferably 10 <_6a <_18,1 (J / cm3) '/ 2, and more preferably 13 <_6a <_14,5 (J / cm3)' I2 40 and be chosen from ether modified fatty alcohols, synthetic esters resulting from the formation of fatty acid and alcohol or polyols, partial esters resulting from the reaction of at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid; of ricinoleic acid or 12-hydroxystearic acid, with at least one sugar (sucrose or polysucrose), ethylene oxide adducts with castor oil and / or castor oil hydrogenated trialkyl phosphate and alkyl mono, di and triphosphate, and mixtures thereof, as described above. Preferably, the hydrocarbon dispersant is chosen from sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, polyglycerol-2 stearate, polyglycerol-4 isostearate, polyglycerol-3 diisostearate and polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose diisostearate. oligomer stearate of 12-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof. More preferably still, the hydrocarbon dispersant is sorbitan stearate.

The hydrocarbon dispersing agent may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and better from 1 to 5% by weight.

Oily phase

The anhydrous composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase. By oily phase is meant all the oils present in the composition. Advantageously, the composition comprises two volatile oils of different volatility.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (0.001 to 300 mm). of Hg) and preferably ranging from 1.3 to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). The volatile oil may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, volatile fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the volatile oil is chosen from hydrocarbon oils. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane ( also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permethyls. Volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those having a viscosity of 5 centistokes (5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and especially from 2 to 5 m 2 / s, can also be used as volatile oils. 10 silicon atoms, preferably 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally having alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

The volatile fluorinated oil does not usually have a flash point. As fluorinated volatile oil, mention may be made of nonafluoroethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane and dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the composition comprises at least two volatile hydrocarbon oils and in particular a mixture of isododecane and isohexadecane. The volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 10% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from from 10% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile oil. By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mm Hg) at ambient temperature ( 25 ° C). These non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms. The non-volatile oils may in particular be chosen from fluorinated hydrocarbon oils which may be fluorinated and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, - hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varied from C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or else the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, of avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, cassis, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; shea butter; or the caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel,

synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane, paraffin, and mixtures thereof, synthetic esters such as oils of formula RICOOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing from 1 at 40 carbon atoms with the proviso that R1 + R2 is 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octy palmitate 1-decyl, 2-octyl-dodecyl myristate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate, 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters,

at room temperature liquids with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol or 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the non-volatile oil may be chosen from synthetic esters such as those described above, and in particular, isononyl isononanoate.

The non-volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 3% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight.

The oily phase of the composition according to the invention may be present in a total content ranging from 10 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 40 to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 25% to 35% by weight.

Wax and pasty body qras

The composition according to the invention may also comprise fatty substances other than the oils mentioned above, such as waxes or pasty fatty substances.

By wax is meant a solid fat body at room temperature.

The pasty fatty substances can be defined using at least one of the following physicochemical properties: a viscosity of 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poise), measured at 40.degree. a CONTRAVES TV rotary viscometer equipped with a mobile MS-r3 or MS-r4 at a frequency of 60 Hz, a melting point of 25-70 ° C, preferably 25-55 ° C. As waxes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of:

animal waxes such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, vegetable waxes such as Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Japan wax, cocoa butter or waxes of cork or sugarcane fibers,

mineral waxes, for example paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites,

Synthetic waxes, among which are polyethylene waxes, polytetrafluoroethylene waxes and waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis,

silicone waxes, in particular substituted linear polysiloxanes; mention may be made, for example, of polyether silicone waxes, alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, alkyl meticones such as CaC-C45 alkylmethicone sold under the trade name "AMS C 30" by DOW CORNING,

hydrogenated oils which are solid at 25 ° C., such as hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil and 25-weighted solid fatty esters; ° C., such as the C 20 -C 40 alkyl stearate sold under the trade name "Kester WAX K82H" by the company Koster Keunen,

and / or their mixtures.

Preferably, polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, carnauba waxes, hydrogenated jojoba oil, candellila waxes, beeswaxes and / or mixtures thereof will be used.

Preferably, the waxes are present in a content ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.1 to 4% by weight,

These fatty substances may in particular be chosen in a variety of ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example in consistency or in texture.

The composition may comprise a fatty phase formed of the oils and fats described above, present in a content ranging from 10 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 20% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 25% to 35% by weight. Aqent thickening oils:

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oil-thickening agent chosen from polymeric thickeners, mineral thickeners and their mixtures. The polymeric thickening agent present in the composition according to the invention is an amorphous polymer formed by polymerization of an olefin. The olefin may in particular be an ethylenically unsaturated elastomeric monomer. As an example of an olefin, mention may be made of ethylenic carbide monomers, especially having one or two ethylenic unsaturations, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene and isoprene.

The polymeric thickening agent is capable of thickening or gelling the organic phase of the composition. By amorphous polymer is meant a polymer which does not have a crystalline form.

The polymeric thickening agent can also be film-forming, that is to say, it is capable of forming a film when it is applied to the skin.

The polymeric thickening agent may in particular be a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial or star copolymer, or mixtures thereof.

Such polymeric thickeners are described in US-A-2002/005562 and in US-A-5,221,534. Advantageously, the polymeric thickening agent is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin. The polymeric thickening agent is preferably hydrogenated to reduce residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers.

In particular, the polymeric thickening agent is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / C 3 -C 4 alkylene blocks.

As the diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, mention may be made of styrene / propylene copolymers and styrene / ethylene / butadiene copolymers. Diblock polymers are in particular sold under the name Kraton G1701 E by Kraton Polymers.

As the triblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, mention may be made of styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymers, styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers . Triblock polymers are sold in particular under the names Kraton G1650, Kraton G1652, Kraton D1101, Kraton D1102 and Kraton D1160 by Kraton Polymers.

It is also possible to use a mixture of styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene triblock hydrogenated copolymer and ethylene-propylene-styrene hydrogenated star polymer, such a mixture being especially in isododecane. Such mixtures are for example sold by PENRECO under the trade names VERSAGEL M5960 and VERSAGEL M5670.

Advantageously, a diblock copolymer such as those described above, in particular a diblock copolymer of styrene / propylene, is used as polymeric thickening agent. The polymeric thickener may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably ranging from from 1% to 3% by weight. The composition may also comprise at least one mineral thickening agent for oils such as an organophilic clay, pyrogenic silicas.

Organophilic clays are clays modified with chemical compounds that make the clay swellable in oily environments.

Clays are already well known products per se, which are described for example in the book "Clay Mineralogy, S. Caillere, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition 1982, Masson", whose teaching is here included for reference. The clays are silicates containing a cation which may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium cations and their mixtures. Examples of such products are clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites, saponites, as well as vermiculite, stevensite, chlorite.

These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. Preferably, clays are used which are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin materials such as the skin.

The organophilic clay may be selected from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.

These clays may be modified with a chemical compound selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

As organophilic clays, mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38, Bentone 38V by Rheox, Tixogel VP by United catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40, Claytone XL by Southern Clay Company; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the names Claytone HT, Claytone PS by Southern Clay. The fumed silicas can be obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This method makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which have a large number of silanol groups on their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold under the names "AEROSIL 130", "AEROSIL 200", "AEROSIL 255", "AEROSIL 300" "AEROSIL 380" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL HS-5O R "," CAB-O-SIL EH-5 "," CAB-O-SIL LM-130 "," CAB-O-SIL MS-55 "," CAB-O-SIL M-5 "by Cabot.

It is possible to chemically modify the surface of said silica by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references "AEROSIL R812" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-530" by the company Cabot. dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references "AEROSIL R972", "AEROSIL R974" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-610" CAB-O-SIL TS-720 "by Cabot.

The fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm. The mineral thickening agent of the oils may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 1% to 5% by weight. weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 3% by weight.

The thickening agent for the oils is present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1 to 7 by weight, and more preferably ranging from 2 to 6% by weight.

Usual cosmetic ingredients The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one other usual cosmetic ingredient that may be chosen in particular from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, organic compounds and the like. bronzers, anti-wrinkle active agents, emollients, lipophilic active agents, anti-pollution or anti-free radical agents, sequestering agents, film-forming agents, dermorelaxant active agents, soothing agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, anti-glycation agents, anti-irritant agents, desquamating agents, depigmenting, anti-pigmenting, or pro-pigmenting agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, fibroblast proliferation stimulating agents or keranocytes and / or the differentiation of keranocytes, the agents acting on the microcirculation, the agents 35 on the energetic metabolism of cells, healing agents, and their mixtures. The composition according to the invention may be an anhydrous composition comprising an oily phase and a pulverulent phase, said pulverulent phase comprising: from 15 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one Pigment, - fibers, and - at least one elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder, and said oil phase comprising at least one hydrocarbon dispersing agent selected from ether modified fatty alcohols, synthetic esters resulting from the formation of fatty acid and 45 of alcohol or polyols, the partial esters resulting from the reaction of at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, ricinoleic acid or 12-hydroxystearic acid, with at least one sugar (sucrose or polysucrose), adducts of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil, trialkyl phosphates and alkylated mono, di and triphosphate, and mixtures thereof s. The invention is illustrated in more detail in the examples hereinafter. Examples 1 to 7

Seven anhydrous foundations were prepared having the following compositions (the contents are expressed as percent by weight): Chemical Name Ex 1 Ex 2 Ex 3 Ex 4 Ex 5 Ex 6 Ex 7 Sorbitan Monostearate Phase 1.30 Al Oligomer stearate of 1.30 12-hydroxystearic acid Isostearate of sorbitan 1.30 Isostearate of polyglycerol-4 1.30 Stearate of polyglycerol-2 1.30 Methylglucose diisostearate 1.30 of polyglycerol-3 Di isostearate of 1.30 polyglycerol-3 diblock copolymer 2.10 2.10 2.10 2.10 2.10 2.10 2.10 styrene / ethylene-propylene sold under the name Kraton G1701 E by the company Kraton Polymers Isononanoate isononyl 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 Isohexadecane 16.00 16.00 16.00 16.00 16.00 16.00 16.00 Iron Oxide Phase Yellow 3.80 3.80 3.80 3.80 3.80 3.80 3.80 A2 Iron Oxide Brown-Yellow 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 Iron Oxide Black 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Titanium Dioxide 23.65 23.65 23.65 23.65 23.65 23.65 23.65 Phase H ectorite amended by 15.00 15.00 15.00 15.00 15.00 15.00 10% di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride in A3 petroleum distillate (sold under the name BENTONE Gel SS) 71 V by the company ELEMENTIS) Isododecane 9,10 9,10 9,10 9,10 9,10 9,10 9,10 Phase Isododecane 7,00 7,00 7,00 7,00 7,00 7,00 7 , 00 A4 micro-spheres of vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / PMMA expanded with isobutane sold under the 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 denomination EXPANCEL 551 DE 20 D60 by the company EXPANCEL Powder of Nylon-12 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Kaolin 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3, 00 Talc 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5.5 Elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder sold under the name DC 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3 , 00 3.00 9506 by the Dow Corning Company Polyamide fibers (0.3 mm 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1,00 1.00 in length) Procedure: The materials are mixed phase Al at a temperature of 67 ° C 45 min with stirring at 1000 rpm in a large double-skinned pan with oil circulation using a turbine (Rayneri), so as to thicken the Al phase. The pigments of the A2 phase are added to the Al mix. Pass the mixture obtained 3 times to the three-roll grinder then it is recovered in another double-skinned skillet. When cold, A3 is added to the Al + A2 mixture. The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is then introduced with stirring for 30 minutes. Then when the aggregates are globally dispersed, the fibers are added and dispersed for 5 minutes.

Finally, the kaolin is introduced then the nylon powder, mother-of-pearl and talc with reduced stirring. Homogenize for 5 min. The composition is allowed to cool for 24 hours at 20 ° C.

The foundation obtained has a flexible texture that spreads well allowing the user to have sufficient time to apply the cosmetic product to the skin during its application The resulting makeup is homogeneous, camouflages the color imperfections of the skin, and has a good behavior in time of coverage and color. The deposit is matte and non-sticky, comfortable and does not dry the skin.

Claims (12)

claims An anhydrous composition comprising an oily phase and a pulverulent phase, said pulverulent phase comprising: from 15 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one pigment, fibers, and minus an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder, and said oily phase comprising at least one hydrocarbon dispersing agent chosen from ether-modified fatty alcohols, synthetic esters resulting from the formation of fatty acid and alcohol or polyols, esters partial reactions resulting from the reaction of at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, ricinoleic acid or 12-hydroxystearic acid with at least one sugar (sucrose or polysucrose), the adducts of the ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil, trialkylated phosphates and alkylated mono, di and triphosphate, and mixtures thereof. An anhydrous composition comprising an oily phase and a pulverulent phase, said pulverulent phase comprising: from 15 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one pigment, fibers, and minus an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder, and said oily phase comprising at least one hydrocarbon dispersing agent which has the solubility parameters bd and ba satisfying the following conditions: 16.2 <_dd <_20 (J / cm3) 112 and 9, 1 <_6a <_20 (J / cm3) 112 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fibers have a length L and a diameter D such that L / D is chosen in the range of 1.5 to 2500, preferably 3 , 5 to 500 and better from 5 to 150. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fibers are of synthetic or natural, mineral or organic origin. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fibers are of any shape and in particular of circular or polygonal section (square, hexagonal or octagonal). 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fibers have a length ranging from 1 μm to 10 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and better still from 0.1 mm to 3 mm. mm. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fibers have a section in a circle with a diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 μm, preferably ranging from 100 nm to 100 μm. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fibers are chosen from polyamide fibers, cellulose fibers, polyethylene fibers and mixtures thereof. 45 9. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fibers have a length ranging from 0.1 to 5 mm, preferably from 0.25 to 1.6 mm, and their average diameter may range from 5 to 50 μm. . 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fibers are chosen from nylon 6 (or polyamide 6), nylon 6,6 or nylon 66 (or polyamide 6,6) fibers, Nylon 12 (or Polyamide 12) and mixtures thereof. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fibers are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight. % by weight, better 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the crosslinked organopolysiloxane is chosen from those obtained: by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganosiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and diorganopolysiloxane having groups silicon-bonded ethylenic unsaturation; - by condensation reaction crosslinking dehydrogenation between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon; by crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane; by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst. 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst. 18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the particles of organopolysiloxane crosslinked elastomer are present in an active material content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 5% by weight. 19. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 15, characterized in that the hydrocarbon dispersing agent has the solubility parameters bd and ba satisfying the following conditions: 16.3 <_dd <_19 (J / cm3) 112 and 20. Composition according to one of claims 2 to 16, characterized in that the hydrocarbon dispersing agent has the solubility parameters bd and ba satisfying the following conditions: 16, 9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon dispersing agent exhibits a high degree of resistance to the formation of a hydrocarbon dispersing agent. chemical structure comprising at least one nonionic polar group selected from -COOH; -OH ; ethylene oxide: - (O-CH 2 -CH 2 -); propylene oxide - (O-CH-CH 2 -); Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon dispersing agent is fluid at ambient temperature (25 ° C) and / or has a refractive index of 1.45 at 20 ° C. PO4; NHR; NR, R 2 with R 1, R 2 possibly forming a ring and representing a linear or branched C 1 -C 20 alkyl or alkoxy radical or H 1 R 2 R 2 with R 1 and R 2 which may be equal to H or an alkyl chain or linear or branched C 1 -C 20 alkoxy. 20. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 3 to 15 and 18 to 19, characterized in that the hydrocarbon dispersing agent is chosen from sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate and polyglycerol-2 monoisostearate. , polyglycerol-4 isostearate, polyglycerol-3 diisostearate, polyglycerol-3 methylglucose diisostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid oligomer stearate, and mixtures thereof. 21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon dispersing agent is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight. 22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pigments are present in the composition in a content ranging from 20 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from % to 30% by weight. 23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises dyestuffs other than pigments and / or fillers. 24. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the dyestuffs is a nacre. 25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one filler. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one filler chosen from talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders, poly-R-alanine powders, polyethylene powders, polymethylmethacrylates, polyurethane powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile copolymer powders, copolymers of acrylic acid, silicone resin powders, elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, barium sulfate; and their mixtures. 27. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one filler with a density of less than 0.2 g / cm3. 28. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the filler density of less than 0.2 g / cm3 is chosen from hollow microspheres of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, hollow microspheres of acrylic acid copolymers. 29. Composition according to any one of claims 25 to 28, characterized in that the fillers are present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight and more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 7% by weight. 30. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oily phase comprises at least two volatile oils of different volatility. 31. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the volatile oil (s) is (are) chosen from silicone volatile oils and volatile hydrocarbon oils. 32. Composition according to any one of claims 30 or 31, characterized in that the (or) the volatile oils is (are) chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms; linear or cyclic silicone oils having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; volatile fluorinated oils. 33. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile oil (s) is (are) chosen from among isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, cyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane. 34. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises isohexadecane and isododecane. 35. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 10% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 10% at 40% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 15% to 30% by weight. 36. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oily phase is present in a total content ranging from 10 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 30% to 65%. % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight. 37. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oily phase comprises an oil thickening agent is chosen from polymeric thickeners, mineral thickeners, and mixtures thereof. 38. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the polymeric thickening agent is formed by polymerization of ethylenic carbide monomers, having in particular one or two ethylenic unsaturations having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms. 39. A composition according to claims 37 and 38, characterized in that the polymeric thickening agent is formed by olefin polymerization selected from ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene. 40. Composition according to any one of claims 37 to 39, characterized in that the polymeric thickening agent is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / C3-C4 alkylene blocks. 41. Composition according to any one of claims 37 to 40, characterized in that the polymeric thickening agent is a mixture of hydrogenated triblock styrenebutylene / ethylene-styrene copolymer and styrene-propylene-styrene hydrogenated star polymer. 42. Composition according to any one of claims 37 to 41, characterized in that the polymeric thickening agent is chosen from styrene / propylene diblock copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymers, and styrene / triblock copolymers. butadiene-styrene, styrene-isoprene-styrene and styrene-butadiene-styrene. 43. Composition according to any one of Claims 37 to 42, characterized in that the polymeric thickening agent is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 3% by weight. 44. A method of making up the skin comprising applying to the skin a composition 40 according to any one of claims 1 to 43. 45. Use of a composition according to claims 1 to 43, for blurring and / or hide the color inhomogeneities of the skin, especially dark circles, redness, spots or scars.