CN104470489B - Cosmetic composition including scattering filler and mother-of-pearl - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition including scattering filler and mother-of-pearl Download PDFInfo
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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- A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
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Abstract
Description
技术领域technical field
本发明涉及用于护理和/或化妆皮肤的组合物,其尤其意图赋予光亮和健康发光效果。The present invention relates to compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin, which are especially intended to impart radiance and a healthy glow.
术语"光亮"和"光效果"根据本发明被理解为是指在皮肤上的光反射、漫射和连续反射的特征。实际上,皮肤自然地反射一部分的入射光。根据本发明的"光效果"使得增加这种反射成为可能,这为化妆提供更光亮的和更发光的外观。根据本发明的组合物还可以赋予健康的发光效果。The terms "shine" and "light effect" are understood according to the invention to mean the characteristic of light reflection, diffusion and continuous reflection on the skin. In fact, the skin naturally reflects a portion of incident light. The "light effect" according to the invention makes it possible to increase this reflection, which gives the make-up a shinier and more luminous appearance. The compositions according to the invention can also impart a healthy glow effect.
表述"健康的发光效果"被理解为是指皮肤的天然着色,改善肤色的暗淡外观(降低饱和度的或彩色的并且抗暗淡肤色效果)。The expression "healthy glow effect" is understood to mean the natural coloring of the skin, improving the dull appearance of the complexion (desaturated or colored and anti-dull complexion effect).
根据本发明的表述"用于护理和/或化妆角蛋白材料的组合物"被理解为是指不同于漂洗净化组合物的组合物。The expression "composition for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials" according to the invention is understood to mean a composition other than a rinse-off cleansing composition.
特别地,它们会是用于护理和/或化妆脸部和/或躯体的皮肤,尤其面部皮肤的组合物。In particular, they will be compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin of the face and/or body, especially the facial skin.
背景技术Background technique
数世纪来,全世界的消费者,特别是亚洲消费者,在寻找新型化妆品以便改善角蛋白材料、尤其是皮肤的外观,特别地表面外观(可见的和/或能触知的不均匀性)和/或皮肤肤色,健康的发光,健康和青春的外部信号。For centuries, consumers all over the world, especially in Asia, have been looking for new cosmetic products to improve the appearance of keratinous materials, especially skin, especially surface appearance (visible and/or tactile unevenness) And/or skin complexion, a healthy glow, external signals of health and youth.
此外,为给角蛋白材料,尤其皮肤带来光亮的和健康的发光效果,有必要隐藏皮肤上的缺点,同时将光散射以便给皮肤带来发光和同时的非闪耀外观。Furthermore, in order to impart a radiant and healthy glow to keratin materials, especially the skin, it is necessary to hide imperfections on the skin, while at the same time scatters the light in order to give the skin a luminous and at the same time non-shiny appearance.
在先有技术中众所周知的是在化妆品组合物中使用颜料以便隐藏皮肤缺点和使皮肤变亮。然而,具有强光散射和吸收的颜料颗粒往往在毛孔(pores)内部积聚并且提高其可见度。Unilever的US2005163730描述了硅弹性体、ZnO纳米颜料和散射填料如TiO2涂铺的云母或氯氧化铋的组合。It is well known in the prior art to use pigments in cosmetic compositions in order to conceal skin imperfections and lighten the skin. However, pigment particles with strong light scattering and absorption tend to accumulate inside the pores and increase their visibility. US2005163730 to Unilever describes a combination of silicone elastomers, ZnO nanopigments and scattering fillers such as TiO2 coated mica or bismuth oxychloride.
因此,仍然需要发现新的护理和/或化妆产品,尤其用于肤色,其赋予光亮效果而非闪耀的,其没有标记凹凸不平同时覆盖缺点(皮肤变色、标记)或者其赋予脸部均一颜色,特别地脸部天然且均一颜色,有利地,健康的发光效果。Therefore, there is still a need to find new care and/or make-up products, especially for the complexion, which impart a luminous effect rather than sparkle, which do not mark unevenness while covering imperfections (skin discolouration, marks) or which impart a uniform color to the face, Especially the face has a natural and uniform color and, advantageously, a healthy glow.
发明内容Contents of the invention
本发明人已经发现,散射填料,尤其是铋化合物,结合以珍珠母,显示出非常好的光反射(refection)和化妆(making up)效果,其满足本发明的目的。The inventors have found that scattering fillers, especially bismuth compounds, in combination with nacre, show very good light reflection and making up effects, which fulfill the object of the present invention.
散射化合物的亲水性能有助于本发明组合物对于皮肤的亲密性,并且提高了本发明组合物的粘附性。The hydrophilic nature of the scattering compound contributes to the skin affinity of the composition of the invention and improves the adhesion of the composition of the invention.
根据一种具体的实施方案,簇晶结构散射填料被用于本发明中。由于散射填料的结构,组合物因而变得粘附和较少透明。因此,组合物给皮肤带来光散射效果,以便赋予发光(glow)但非闪耀(shiny)外观,并且同时覆盖皮肤的缺点。According to a specific embodiment, cluster structure scattering fillers are used in the present invention. The composition thus becomes cohesive and less transparent due to the structure of the scattering filler. Thus, the composition brings a light-scattering effect to the skin in order to impart a glow but not shiny appearance and at the same time cover skin imperfections.
而且,由于上述散射填料的结构,本发明的组合物在施用后能够吸收皮肤上的皮脂(sebum)。Furthermore, the composition of the present invention is capable of absorbing sebum on the skin after application due to the structure of the above-mentioned scattering filler.
在一个方面,本发明提供用于护理和/或化妆角蛋白材料,特别地脸部皮肤的化妆品组合物,其包括在生理地可接受的介质中的下述组分:In one aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for the care and/or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular facial skin, comprising the following components in a physiologically acceptable medium:
(a)至少一种散射填料,其颗粒尺寸小于35微米,优选2微米至35微米,更优选11微米至17微米,(a) at least one scattering filler having a particle size of less than 35 microns, preferably from 2 microns to 35 microns, more preferably from 11 microns to 17 microns,
(b)至少红色或粉红色珍珠母,和(b) at least red or pink mother-of-pearl, and
(c)至少蓝色珍珠母。(c) At least blue mother-of-pearl.
根据优选的实施方案,本发明提供用于护理和/或化妆角蛋白材料,特别地脸部皮肤的化妆品组合物,其包括在生理地可接受的介质中的下述组分:According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for the care and/or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular facial skin, comprising the following components in a physiologically acceptable medium:
(a)至少一种氯氧化铋,优选地簇晶形式的,其颗粒尺寸小于35微米,优选2微米至35微米,更优选11微米至17微米,(a) at least one bismuth oxychloride, preferably in the form of cluster crystals, having a particle size of less than 35 microns, preferably from 2 microns to 35 microns, more preferably from 11 microns to 17 microns,
(b)至少红色或粉红色珍珠母,和(b) at least red or pink mother-of-pearl, and
(c)至少蓝色珍珠母。(c) At least blue mother-of-pearl.
如上所述的本发明提供至少一种散射填料和珍珠母之间的良好平衡,以便使本发明的组合物能够带来对皮肤缺点的覆盖,以及对皮肤,尤其面部皮肤的光亮和发光效果。The present invention as described above provides a good balance between at least one diffusing filler and nacre so that the composition of the invention is able to bring about coverage of skin imperfections, as well as a lightening and glowing effect on the skin, especially the facial skin.
根据本发明,组合物可以是各种形式的,特别地无水组合物、分散体或乳液的形式,尤其例如水/油或油/水乳液或多重乳液。According to the invention, the compositions may be in various forms, in particular in the form of anhydrous compositions, dispersions or emulsions, such as water/oil or oil/water emulsions or multiple emulsions, among others.
本发明的组合物优选是乳液,特别地直接或逆乳液,或无水组合物。The compositions of the invention are preferably emulsions, in particular direct or inverse emulsions, or anhydrous compositions.
优选地,该组合物是乳液。Preferably, the composition is an emulsion.
乳液可以具有油或水连续相。这样的乳液可以是,例如,逆(W/O)乳液或直接(O/W)乳液,或者备选地多重乳液(W/O/W或O/W/O)。Emulsions can have an oil or water continuous phase. Such emulsions may be, for example, inverse (W/O) emulsions or direct (O/W) emulsions, or alternatively multiple emulsions (W/O/W or O/W/O).
根据另一个实施方案,本发明的组合物还包括至少一种另外的着色剂,其选自角色差着色剂、光致变色着色剂、荧光剂、光学增亮剂、色淀、有机颜料、复合颜料、和其混合物。According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one additional colorant selected from angular difference colorants, photochromic colorants, fluorescent agents, optical brighteners, lakes, organic pigments, composite Pigments, and mixtures thereof.
根据又一个的具体的实施方案,本发明的组合物还包括至少一种另外的填料。根据又一个实施方案,本发明的组合物还包括至少一种有机UV防晒成分,其是有机的,和/或无机UV防晒成分。According to yet another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention also comprises at least one additional filler. According to yet another embodiment, the composition of the invention also comprises at least one organic UV sunscreen ingredient, which is organic, and/or an inorganic UV sunscreen ingredient.
在又一个方面,本发明涉及护理和/或化妆角蛋白材料的方法,包括向所述角蛋白材料,特别地向皮肤,施用根据本发明的组合物,例如施用到面部皮肤的组合物的涂层或若干层的组合物的形式,单独地或与另一种组合物组合地(两步施用)使用,根据本发明的所述组合物在护理组合物或化妆组合物如粉底(foundation)的施用前和/或后被施用。In yet another aspect, the present invention relates to a method of caring for and/or making up keratinous materials, comprising applying to said keratinous materials, in particular to the skin, a composition according to the invention, for example an application of a composition to facial skin. In the form of a composition of layers or several layers, used alone or in combination with another composition (two-step application), said composition according to the invention is used in care compositions or cosmetic compositions such as foundations To be administered before and/or after administration.
特别地,向皮肤,特别地面部皮肤施用所述组合物给前者提供光亮和健康的发光效果。In particular, application of the composition to the skin, especially the facial skin, provides the former with a radiant and healthy glow.
本发明的目标还在于在化妆品组合物中以乳液的形式如根据本发明定义的包括至少一种颗粒尺寸小于35微米,优选2微米至35微米,更优选11微米至17微米的散射填料、至少红色或粉红色珍珠母、和至少蓝色珍珠母的组合作为用于改善肤色的光亮效果的试剂的用途。The object of the present invention is also to include in cosmetic compositions in the form of emulsions, as defined according to the invention, at least one scattering filler with a particle size of less than 35 microns, preferably 2 microns to 35 microns, more preferably 11 microns to 17 microns, at least Use of a combination of red or pink nacre, and at least blue nacre, as an agent for improving the radiance of the complexion.
具体实施方式Detailed ways
散射填料Scattering filler
根据本发明的组合物包括至少一种散射填料,其颗粒尺寸小于35微米,优选2微米至35微米,和更优选11微米至17微米。The composition according to the invention comprises at least one scattering filler having a particle size of less than 35 microns, preferably from 2 microns to 35 microns, and more preferably from 11 microns to 17 microns.
颗粒尺寸是以平均体积直径(D[0.5])的形式表示的。Particle size is expressed as mean volume diameter (D[0.5]).
特别地,散射填料的折射率为1.6至2.5,优选1.7至2.3,和更优选1.7至2.2。In particular, the refractive index of the scattering filler is 1.6 to 2.5, preferably 1.7 to 2.3, and more preferably 1.7 to 2.2.
特别地,散射填料选自氮化硼、硫酸钡、氯氧化铋、氧化铝和基于氧化钛与如滑石、云母、硫酸钡、氮化硼、氯氧化铋、氧化铝、与其混合物的底物的复合粉末。In particular, the scattering filler is selected from boron nitride, barium sulphate, bismuth oxychloride, aluminum oxide and materials based on titanium oxide with substrates such as talc, mica, barium sulphate, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, aluminum oxide, mixtures thereof Composite powder.
在特别的实施方案中,散射填料是氯氧化铋。In a particular embodiment, the scattering filler is bismuth oxychloride.
在优选的实施方案中,散射填料是簇晶氯氧化铋,其颗粒尺寸小于35微米,优选2微米至35微米,和更优选11微米至17微米。In a preferred embodiment, the scattering filler is cluster crystal bismuth oxychloride having a particle size of less than 35 microns, preferably 2 microns to 35 microns, and more preferably 11 microns to 17 microns.
如本发明中提及的簇晶氯氧化铋可以散射光,因此有助于进一步向皮肤传递光亮(luminous)和发光(glow)效果,而没有闪耀(shiny)的外观。The clustered bismuth oxychloride as mentioned in the present invention can scatter light and thus help to further impart a luminous and glow effect to the skin without a shiny appearance.
作为氯氧化铋的商业产品的例子,我们可以使用以下产品:Ronaflair™ ESQ,获自Merck,Ronaflair LF™-2000,获自Merck,Mearlite GLS和Mearlite LBU,获自BASFCorporation,POL LO,获自George Uhe Company, Inc.,Pearl I和II,和Pearl SupremeUVS,获自Presperse LLC,Pearl-Glo 1085,Pearl-Glo M 1098,Pearl-Glo SF 1099,和Pearl-Glo SF UVR 1060,获自BASF Corporation。As examples of commercial products of bismuth oxychloride we can use the following products: Ronaflair™ ESQ from Merck, Ronaflair LF™-2000 from Merck, Mearlite GLS and Mearlite LBU from BASF Corporation, POL LO from George Uhe Company, Inc., Pearl I and II, and Pearl Supreme UVS, available from Presperse LLC, Pearl-Glo 1085, Pearl-Glo M 1098, Pearl-Glo SF 1099, and Pearl-Glo SF UVR 1060, available from BASF Corporation.
作为优选的氯氧化铋,我们使用以下产品:Ronaflair™ ESQ,获自Merck,Ronaflair LF™-2000,获自Merck,更优选Ronaflair™ ESQ,获自Merck。As preferred bismuth oxychloride we use the following products: Ronaflair™ ESQ from Merck, Ronaflair LF™-2000 from Merck, more preferably Ronaflair™ ESQ from Merck.
如上所述的至少一种散射填料在本发明的组合物中的含量为0.5至15wt%,优选1至10wt%,和更优选2至5wt%,按组合物的总重量计。The content of at least one scattering filler as described above in the composition of the invention is 0.5 to 15 wt%, preferably 1 to 10 wt%, and more preferably 2 to 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
珍珠母mother of pearl
术语"珍珠母"应当被理解为是指任何形式的闪光的或非闪光的着色颗粒,尤其由某些软体动物在其壳中产生或者备选地合成而来,其具有通过光学干涉的色彩效应。The term "nacres" should be understood to mean any form of iridescent or non- iridescent colored particles, especially produced or alternatively synthesized by certain molluscs in their shells, which have a color effect by optical interference .
该组合物包括至少红色或粉红色珍珠母和蓝色珍珠母。The composition includes at least red or pink nacre and blue nacre.
红色或粉红色珍珠母是具有红色或粉红色反射色的珍珠母。Red or pink nacre is nacre that has a red or pink reflective color.
蓝色珍珠母是具有蓝色反射色的珍珠母。Blue mother-of-pearl is mother-of-pearl with a blue reflective color.
珍珠母可选自珠光颜料,例如涂覆以氧化铁的云母,涂覆以氯氧化铋的云母,涂覆以氧化钛或二氧化钛的云母,涂覆以氧化铬的云母,涂覆以氧化锡的云母,涂覆以SnO2的云母,涂覆以BaSO4的云母,涂覆以有机染料的云母,以及基于氯氧化铋的珠光颜料。它们还可以是在其表面上叠加至少两连续层的金属氧化物和/或有机着色剂的云母颗粒。优选地,珍珠母在其外观方面是白色的,它们优选地由涂覆以至少二氧化钛的云母形成。Nacre can be selected from pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, mica coated with titanium oxide or titanium dioxide, mica coated with chromium oxide, mica coated with tin oxide Mica, mica coated with SnO2, mica coated with BaSO4, mica coated with organic dyes, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can also be mica particles on whose surface at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic colorants are superimposed. Preferably, the nacres are white in their appearance, they are preferably formed of mica coated with at least titanium dioxide.
还可以提及的珍珠母的实例包括涂覆以氧化钛、氧化铁、天然颜料或氯氧化铋的天然云母。Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigments or bismuth oxychloride.
作为优选的珍珠母,我们使用涂覆以氧化钛或二氧化钛的云母,和涂覆以二氧化钛和氧化锡的云母。As preferred nacres we use mica coated with titanium oxide or titanium dioxide, and mica coated with titanium dioxide and tin oxide.
在市售可得的珍珠母中,可以提及的是由BASF公司出售的Timica、Flamenco和Duochrome(云母基)珍珠母,由MERCK公司出售的Timiron珍珠母,由Eckart公司出售的Prestige云母基珍珠母,以下基于天然云母的珍珠母:获自Sun Chemical公司的Sunpearl,获自Kobo公司的KTZ和获自Sun Chemical公司的Sunprizma,基于合成云母由Sun Chemical公司出售的Sunshine和Sunprizma珍珠母,和基于合成云母由MERCK公司出售的TimironSynwhite珍珠母。Among the commercially available nacres, mention may be made of Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (mica-based) nacres sold by the company BASF, Timiron nacres sold by the company MERCK, Prestige mica-based nacres sold by the company Eckart Nacres, the following nacres based on natural mica: Sunpearl from Sun Chemical, KTZ from Kobo and Sunprizma from Sun Chemical, Sunshine and Sunprizma nacres sold by Sun Chemical based on synthetic mica, and based on The synthetic mica is Timiron Synwhite mother of pearl sold by the company MERCK.
珍珠母可以更特别地具有粉红色,红色,青铜色,橙色,蓝色,褐色,金色和/或铜色的颜色或反光。The mother-of-pearl may more particularly have a pink, red, bronze, orange, blue, brown, gold and/or coppery color or reflection.
作为在本发明的上下文中可以使用的珍珠母的例子,可以提及粉红色-颜色的珍珠母,尤其由BASF公司以Brilliant gold 212G (Timica),Gold 222C (Cloisonne),Sparkle gold (Timica),Gold 4504 (Chromalite)和Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne)的名称销售的;青铜色珍珠母,尤其由MERCK公司以Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona)和Bronze (17353) (Colorona)的名称和由BASF公司以Super bronze(Cloisonne)的名称销售的;橙色珍珠母,尤其由BASF公司以Orange 363C (Cloisonne)和Orange MCR 101(Cosmica)的名称和由MERCK公司以Passion orange (Colorona)和Matte orange (17449)(Microna)的名称销售的;红色珍珠母,尤其由BASF公司以Summit Red 30D (Flamenco)的名称销售的;蓝色珍珠母,尤其由MERCK公司以Silk Blue(Timiron)的名称销售的;淡褐色的珍珠母,尤其由BASF公司以Nuantique copper 340XB (Cloisonne)和Brown CL4509(Chromalite)的名称销售的;具有淡铜色的珍珠母,尤其由BASF公司以Copper 340A(Timica)的名称销售的;具有淡红色的珍珠母,尤其由MERCK公司以Sienna fine (17386)(Colorona)的名称销售的;具有淡金色的淡红色珍珠母,尤其由BASF公司以Sunstone G012(Gemtone)的名称销售的;粉红色珍珠母,尤其由BASF公司以Tan opale G005 (Gemtone)的名称销售的;具有淡金色的黑色珍珠母,尤其由BASF公司以Nu antique bronze 240 AB(Timica)的名称销售的;蓝色珍珠母,尤其由MERCK公司以Matte blue (17433) (Microna)的名称销售的;具有淡银色的白色珍珠母,尤其由MERCK公司以Xirona Silver的名称销售的;和金色-绿粉红色-橙色珍珠母,尤其由MERCK公司以Indian summer (Xirona)的名称销售的,和其混合物。As examples of nacres that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of pink-coloured nacres, especially sold by the company BASF under the names Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), sold under the names Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearl, especially by the company MERCK under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company BASF under the name marketed under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearl, especially under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) by the company BASF and Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) by the company MERCK ( Microna); red mother-of-pearl, sold especially by the company BASF under the name Summit Red 30D (Flamenco); blue mother-of-pearl, sold especially by the company MERCK under the name Silk Blue (Timiron); hazel Mother-of-pearl, sold especially under the names Nuantique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite) by the company BASF; Red mother-of-pearl, sold especially under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona) by the company MERCK; reddish mother-of-pearl with a light gold color, sold especially under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone) by the company BASF; pink pearl mother-of-pearl, sold especially by the company BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with a light gold color, sold especially by the company BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica); blue mother-of-pearl, especially marketed by the company MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna); white mother-of-pearl with a light silver tint, sold especially by the company MERCK under the name Xirona Silver; and gold-green-pink-orange mother-of-pearl, sold especially by MERCK company to Indian marketed under the name summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.
作为红色或粉红色珍珠母的例子,我们可以使用粉红色颜色的珍珠母,尤其由BASF公司以Brilliant gold 212G (Timica),Gold 222C (Cloisonne),Sparkle gold(Timica),Gold 4504 (Chromalite)和Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne)的名称销售的;红色珍珠母,尤其由BASF公司以Summit Red 30D (Flamenco)的名称销售的;具有淡红色的珍珠母,尤其由MERCK公司以Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona)的名称销售的;具有淡金色的淡红色珍珠母,尤其由BASF公司以Sunstone G012 (Gemtone)的名称销售的;粉红色珍珠母,尤其由BASF公司以Tan opale G005 (Gemtone)的名称销售的;和其混合物。As an example of red or pink nacre, we can use mother of pearl of pink color, especially manufactured by BASF company as Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and sold under the name Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); red mother-of-pearl, sold especially by the company BASF under the name Summit Red 30D (Flamenco); mother-of-pearl with a reddish color, especially sold under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona ) sold under the name ); light red mother-of-pearl with a light gold color, especially sold under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone) by the company BASF; pink mother-of-pearl, sold especially under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone) by the company BASF ; and mixtures thereof.
作为优选的红色或粉红色珍珠母,我们使用红色珍珠母,尤其由BASF公司以Summit Red 30D (Flamenco)的名称销售的。As preferred red or pink nacre, we use red nacre, sold in particular under the name Summit Red 30D (Flamenco) by the company BASF.
作为蓝色珍珠母的例子,我们可以使用蓝色珍珠母,尤其由MERCK公司以SilkBlue(Timiron)的名称销售的;蓝色珍珠母,尤其由MERCK公司以Matte blue (17433)(Microna)的名称销售的;和其混合物。As an example of blue mother-of-pearl, we can use blue mother-of-pearl, sold especially by the company MERCK under the name SilkBlue (Timiron); blue mother-of-pearl, sold especially under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna) by the company MERCK marketed; and mixtures thereof.
作为优选的蓝色珍珠母,我们使用蓝色珍珠母,尤其由MERCK公司以Silk Blue(Timiron)的名称销售的。As preferred blue nacre, we use blue nacre, sold especially under the name Silk Blue (Timiron) by the company MERCK.
通常,珍珠母在本发明的组合物中的含量为1至10wt%,优选2至8wt%和更优选3至6wt%,按组合物的总重量计。Typically, the content of nacre in the composition of the present invention is 1 to 10 wt%, preferably 2 to 8 wt% and more preferably 3 to 6 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
通常,红色或粉红色珍珠母在本发明的组合物中的含量为1至10wt%,优选2至8wt%和更优选3至6wt%,按组合物的总重量计。Typically, the content of red or pink nacre in the composition of the present invention is 1 to 10 wt%, preferably 2 to 8 wt% and more preferably 3 to 6 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
通常,蓝色珍珠母在本发明的组合物中的含量为0.1至1wt%,优选0.2至0.5wt%,按组合物的总重量计。Usually, the content of blue nacre in the composition of the present invention is 0.1 to 1 wt%, preferably 0.2 to 0.5 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
为实现本发明的目的,所述至少一种散射填料与所述至少红色或粉红色珍珠母的重量比为约20:1至约1:20,优选约5:1至约1:5。For the purposes of the present invention, the weight ratio of said at least one scattering filler to said at least red or pink nacre is from about 20:1 to about 1:20, preferably from about 5:1 to about 1:5.
所述至少红色或粉红色珍珠母与所述至少蓝色珍珠母的重量比为约10:1至约1:10,优选约5:1至约1:3。The weight ratio of the at least red or pink nacre to the at least blue nacre is from about 10:1 to about 1:10, preferably from about 5:1 to about 1:3.
在特别的实施方案中,散射填料和珍珠母为大于80%,按所述组合物的有色颗粒(colored particles)的总量的重量计,特别地,大于90%,大于95%,大于98%,按所述组合物的有色颗粒(colored particles)的总量的重量计。In a particular embodiment, the scattering filler and nacre are greater than 80% by weight of the total amount of colored particles of the composition, in particular greater than 90%, greater than 95%, greater than 98% , by weight of the total amount of colored particles of the composition.
盖仑(Galenic)形式Galenic form
本发明涉及化妆品组合物,尤其是乳液类型的,其可以是用于护理和/或化妆角蛋白材料,特别地皮肤的组合物的形式,或者防晒(sun protection)组合物的形式。The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, especially of emulsion type, which may be in the form of a composition for the care and/or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular the skin, or in the form of a sun protection composition.
则其可以是无色或低色值形式,任选地包含化妆用或皮肤学活性剂。则其可以用作用于角蛋白材料,特别地皮肤的护理或化妆妆底(base)。It may then be in colorless or low-color form, optionally containing cosmetically or dermatologically active agents. It can then be used as a care or makeup base for keratinous materials, especially skin.
本发明的组合物还可以是用于化妆角蛋白材料,特别地用于化妆皮肤的有色产品的形式,如特别地被施用到脸或颈的粉底(foundation),遮遐产品(concealer),肤色校正物质(complexion corrector),淡色乳油(tinted cream)或躯体化妆组合物。The composition according to the invention may also be in the form of colored products for making up keratin materials, especially for making up the skin, such as foundations, concealers, skin tones, especially applied to the face or neck Complexion corrector, tinted cream or body makeup composition.
特别地,本发明的组合物是低色值形式,优选化妆妆底(base)。In particular, the composition of the invention is in the form of a low color value, preferably a cosmetic base.
根据本发明的组合物可以是各种形式的,特别地无水组合物、分散体或乳液的形式,尤其例如水/油或油/水乳液或多重乳液。The compositions according to the invention may be in various forms, in particular in the form of anhydrous compositions, dispersions or emulsions, such as water/oil or oil/water emulsions or multiple emulsions, among others.
本发明的组合物优选是乳液,特别地直接或逆乳液,或无水组合物。The compositions of the invention are preferably emulsions, in particular direct or inverse emulsions, or anhydrous compositions.
优选地,它是乳液。Preferably it is an emulsion.
分散体可以被制成水相或制成油相。Dispersions can be made into an aqueous phase or into an oily phase.
乳液可以具有油或水连续相。这样的乳液可以是,例如,逆(W/O)乳液或直接(O/W)乳液,或者备选地多重乳液(W/O/W或O/W/O)。Emulsions can have an oil or water continuous phase. Such emulsions may be, for example, inverse (W/O) emulsions or direct (O/W) emulsions, or alternatively multiple emulsions (W/O/W or O/W/O).
在乳液的情况中,直接(O/W)乳液是优选的。In the case of emulsions, direct (O/W) emulsions are preferred.
特别地,根据本发明的组合物的形式可以是水包油(O/W)乳液,油包水(W/O)乳液,或多重乳液,优选地水包油(O/W)乳液。In particular, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, or a multiple emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion.
根据本发明的组合物可以形成妆底(base)组合物,或者护理和/或化妆组合物,或者在另一化妆和/或护理组合物的下面或上面施用的组合物,以少量碰触的方式以便将肤色统一。The composition according to the invention can form a makeup base composition, or a care and/or make-up composition, or a composition to be applied under or on top of another make-up and/or care composition, with a small amount of touching way to unify the complexion.
在其中根据本发明的组合物是护理和/或化妆妆底(base)的情况下,其将有利地是未染色的或非常低程度地染色的,这允许在所述妆底(base)中使用根据本发明的散射填料和珍珠母的组合。这种护理和/或化妆妆底(base)可以被施用到整个脸部,然后施用护理组合物和/或化妆组合物。根据另一实施方案,在施用某一层的护理或化妆组合物(粉底(foundation))前(下)或在施用某一层的护理或化妆组合物(粉底(foundation))后(上),将所述护理和/或化妆妆底(base)以触碰化妆的方式使用。In the case where the composition according to the invention is a care and/or makeup base, it will advantageously be unpigmented or to a very low degree pigmented, which allows the use of A combination of scattering filler and nacre according to the invention is used. This care and/or make-up base can be applied to the entire face, followed by the care composition and/or make-up composition. According to another embodiment, before (bottom) or after (top) application of a layer of care or makeup composition (foundation) or after application of a layer of care or makeup composition (foundation), The treatment and/or makeup base is applied as a touch makeup.
根据一种特别的实施方案,所述组合物以触碰的方式(in touches)被施用到显示出皮肤缺损的脸部区域;这种施用可以在粉底(foundation)的随后施用之前或其后进行。根据另一特别的实施方案,其可以围绕眼睛来施用以便给眼部区域増亮,或者在口唇之上,在丘比特之弓(cupid's bow)上来施用以便给予曲线形状。According to a particular embodiment, the composition is applied in touches to areas of the face showing skin defects; this application may be performed before or after the subsequent application of foundation . According to another particular embodiment, it can be applied around the eyes to brighten the eye area, or above the lips, on Cupid's bow to give curves a shape.
根据一种特别的实施方案,所述组合物被施用到这样的人上,所述人的皮肤具有可见的和/或能触知的不均匀性和/或肤色的异质性。According to a particular embodiment, said composition is applied to a person whose skin has visible and/or tactile unevenness and/or heterogeneity of skin tone.
根据本发明的一种特别的实施方案,所述组合物被施用到具有油性皮肤的人上。According to a particular embodiment of the invention, said composition is applied to persons with oily skin.
根据本发明的另一特别的实施方案,所述组合物被施用到具有老龄皮肤或成熟皮肤的人上。According to another particular embodiment of the invention, said composition is applied to persons with aged or mature skin.
根据本发明的另一特别的实施方案,所述组合物被施用到具有亚洲人皮肤的人上。According to another particular embodiment of the invention, said composition is applied to a person with Asian skin.
生理地可接受的介质Physiologically acceptable medium
除之前所指出的化合物外,根据本发明的组合物包括生理地可接受的介质。In addition to the previously indicated compounds, the compositions according to the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium.
术语"生理地可接受的介质"意图表示这样的介质,其特别适于将根据本发明的组合物施用到皮肤。The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to mean a medium which is particularly suitable for applying the composition according to the invention to the skin.
生理地可接受的介质通常适应于其上将施用组合物的载体的性质,以及适应于其中组合物所包装的形式。The physiologically acceptable medium is generally suitable to the nature of the vehicle on which the composition will be administered, and to the form in which the composition is packaged.
本发明的组合物可以是分散体或乳液。The compositions of the invention may be dispersions or emulsions.
分散体可以被制成水相或制成油相。Dispersions can be made into an aqueous phase or into an oily phase.
乳液可以具有油或水连续相。这样的乳液可以是,例如,逆(W/O)乳液或直接(O/W)乳液,或者备选地多重乳液(W/O/W或O/W/O)。Emulsions can have an oil or water continuous phase. Such emulsions may be, for example, inverse (W/O) emulsions or direct (O/W) emulsions, or alternatively multiple emulsions (W/O/W or O/W/O).
在乳液的情况中,直接(O/W)乳液是优选的。In the case of emulsions, direct (O/W) emulsions are preferred.
水相water box
根据本发明的组合物可以包括水相。Compositions according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase.
水相包括水。适用于本发明的水可以是花卉水如矢车菊水和/或矿泉水如Vittel水,Lucas水或La Roche Posay水和/或泉水。The aqueous phase includes water. Water suitable for use in the present invention may be flower water such as cornflower water and/or mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or spring water.
水相还可以包括水可混的有机溶剂(在室温下∶25℃),例如包含2至6个碳原子的一元醇,例如乙醇或异丙醇;多元醇,尤其包含2至20个碳原子,优选包含2至10个碳原子和择优地包含2至6个碳原子,例如甘油,丙二醇,丁二醇,戊二醇,己二醇,双丙甘醇或二甘醇;二醇醚(尤其包含3至16个碳原子)例如丙二醇、双丙甘醇、三丙二醇(C1-C4)烷基醚,一、二或三甘醇(C1-C4)烷基醚,和其混合物。The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature: 25° C.), such as monohydric alcohols containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols, especially containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms , preferably containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferably containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers ( Especially containing 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
水相还可以包括稳定剂,例如氯化钠,二氯化镁或硫酸镁。The aqueous phase may also include stabilizers such as sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate.
水相还可以包括与水相相容的任何水溶性的或水可分散的化合物,例如,胶凝剂,成膜聚合物,增稠剂或表面活性剂,和其混合物。The aqueous phase may also include any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound compatible with the aqueous phase, for example, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners or surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
特别地,本发明的组合物可以包括水相,其含量为1wt%至80wt%,尤其5wt%至50wt%,更特别10wt%至45wt%,相对于组合物的总重量。In particular, the composition of the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in an amount of 1% to 80% by weight, especially 5% to 50% by weight, more particularly 10% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
脂肪相fatty phase
根据本发明的化妆品组合物可以包括至少一种液体和/或固体脂肪相。The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise at least one liquid and/or solid fatty phase.
根据一种实施方案,根据本发明的组合物是乳液形式的。According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion.
特别地,本发明的组合物可以包括至少一种液体脂肪相,尤其至少一种下列的油。In particular, the composition of the invention may comprise at least one liquid fatty phase, especially at least one oil listed below.
术语"油"是指任何脂肪物质,其在室温(20-25℃)和在大气压力下是液态的。The term "oil" refers to any fatty substance which is liquid at room temperature (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
本发明的组合物可以包括液体脂肪相,其含量为1%至90%,特别地5%至80%,特别地10%至70%,更特别地20%至50%,按重量计,相对于组合物的总重量。The composition of the present invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase in an amount of 1% to 90%, in particular 5% to 80%, in particular 10% to 70%, more in particular 20% to 50%, by weight, relative to in the total weight of the composition.
适于制备根据本发明的化妆品组合物的油相可以包括烃基油,硅油,氟代油或非氟代油,或其混合物。The oil phase suitable for the preparation of cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or non-fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.
油可以是挥发性的或非挥发性的。Oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
它们可以是动物、植物、无机物或合成来源的。They can be of animal, vegetable, inorganic or synthetic origin.
术语"非挥发油"是指这样的油,其在室温和大气压力下仍然在皮肤或角蛋白纤维上。更具体地说,非挥发油的蒸发速率严格地小于0.01毫克/平方厘米/分钟。The term "fixed oil" refers to an oil which remains on the skin or keratin fibers at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, the evaporation rate of the fixed oil is strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm2/min.
为测量该蒸发速率,将待测试的15克的油或油混合物置于直径7厘米的结晶皿,其被置于在约0.3立方米的大舱室中的天平上,所述大舱室的温度调节到25℃的温度,湿度调节到50%的相对湿度。使所述液体自由地蒸发,而没有搅拌它,同时通过风扇来提供通风(Papst-Motoren,基准8550牛顿,以2700转/分旋转),所述风扇被放置在含所述油或所述混合物的结晶皿上方的垂直位置中,扇叶朝着结晶皿,距离结晶皿的底部20厘米。定期测量在结晶皿中剩余的油的质量。蒸发速率是以每单位面积(平方厘米)和每单位时间(分钟)所蒸发的油的毫克数表达的。To measure this evaporation rate, 15 grams of the oil or oil mixture to be tested are placed in a 7 cm diameter crystallization dish, which is placed on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 cubic meters, the temperature of which is regulated To a temperature of 25°C, the humidity was adjusted to 50% relative humidity. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely without stirring it, while ventilation is provided by a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in the air containing the oil or the mixture In the vertical position above the crystallization dish, the fan blades are facing the crystallization dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallization dish. Periodically measure the mass of oil remaining in the crystallization dish. Evaporation rate is expressed in milligrams of oil evaporated per unit area (cm2) and per unit time (minutes).
术语"挥发油"是指任何非水介质,在室温和大气压力下,当与皮肤或嘴唇接触后在小于1小时,其能够蒸发。挥发油是化妆用挥发油,其在室温下是液体。更具体地说,挥发油的蒸发速率为0.01至200毫克/平方厘米/分钟,包括端点。The term "volatile oil" refers to any non-aqueous medium which is capable of evaporating when in contact with the skin or lips in less than 1 hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Essential oils are cosmetic volatile oils which are liquid at room temperature. More specifically, the evaporation rate of the volatile oil is 0.01 to 200 mg/cm2/min inclusive.
对于本发明的目的,术语"硅油"是指这样的油,其包括至少一个硅原子,并且尤其至少一个Si-O基团。For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-O group.
术语"氟代油"是指这样的油,其包括至少一个氟原子。The term "fluorinated oil" refers to an oil that includes at least one fluorine atom.
术语"烃基油"是指这样的油,其主要包含氢和碳原子。The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil which mainly contains hydrogen and carbon atoms.
油可以任选地包括氧、氮、硫和/或磷原子,例如以羟基或酸根的形式。The oil may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid groups.
挥发油Volatile oil
挥发油可选自含8至16个碳原子的烃基油,并且尤其C8-C16支链烷烃(又名异链烷烃),例如异十二烷(又名2,2,4,4,6-五甲基庚烷),异癸烷和异十六烷,例如在商品名Isopar®或Permethyl®下销售的油。The volatile oil may be selected from hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched chain alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-penta methylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, such as the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permethyl®.
还可以使用的挥发油包括挥发性硅氧烷,例如挥发性线性或环状硅油,尤其粘度小于或等于8厘沲(cSt)(8×10-6平方米/秒)的那些,并且尤其包含2至10个硅原子和特别地2至7个硅原子,这些硅氧烷任选地包括含1至10个碳原子的烷基或烷氧基。作为可以用于本发明中的挥发性硅油,可以尤其提及粘度为5至6cSt的聚二甲基硅氧烷,八甲基环四硅氧烷,十甲基环五硅氧烷,十二甲基环六硅氧烷,七甲基己基三硅氧烷,七甲基辛基三硅氧烷,六甲基二硅氧烷,八甲基三硅氧烷,十甲基四硅氧烷和十二甲基五硅氧烷,和其混合物。Volatile oils which may also be used include volatile silicones, such as volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those having a viscosity less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 10-6 square meters per second), and especially those containing 2 These siloxanes optionally contain alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of polydimethylsiloxane with a viscosity of 5 to 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecylcyclopentasiloxane, Methylcyclohexyltrisiloxane, Heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, Heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, Hexamethyldisiloxane, Octamethyltrisiloxane, Decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
根据一种实施方案,本发明的组合物可以包括1wt%至80wt%,或甚至5wt%至70wt%,或甚至10wt%至60wt%和尤其15wt%至50wt%的挥发油,相对于组合物的总重量。According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention may comprise 1 wt % to 80 wt %, or even 5 wt % to 70 wt %, or even 10 wt % to 60 wt % and especially 15 wt % to 50 wt %, relative to the total weight.
非挥发油non-volatile oil
非挥发油可以尤其选自非挥发性烃基油、氟代油和/或硅油。The non-volatile oil may especially be chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, fluorinated oils and/or silicone oils.
可以尤其提到的非挥发性的烃基油包括:Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which may especially be mentioned include:
-动物来源的烃基油,例如全氢鲨烯,- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene,
-植物来源的烃基油,例如植物固醇酯,例如植物固醇油酸酯,植物固醇异硬脂酸酯和月桂基/辛基十二烷基/植物固醇谷氨酸酯(Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203),由甘油的脂肪酸酯形成的甘油三酯,特别地其中脂肪酸可以具有C4至C36,尤其C18至C36的链长,这些油或许是线性的或分支的,并且饱和或不饱和的;这些油尤其可以是庚酸或辛酸甘油三酯,乳油木果油,紫花苜蓿油,罂粟籽油,笋瓜油,小米油,大麦油,藜油,黑麦油,烛果油,西番莲油,乳油木果脂,芦荟油,甜杏仁油,桃仁油,花生油,摩洛哥坚果油,鳄梨油,木棉油,琉璃苣籽油,西兰花油,金盏花油,亚麻荠油,芥花油,胡萝卜油,红花油,亚麻油,菜籽油,棉籽油,椰子油,骨髓籽油,麦胚油,霍霍巴油,百合花油,澳洲胡桃油,玉米油,白池花籽油,圣约翰草油,栀子花油,榛子油,杏仁油,核桃油,橄榄油,月见草油,棕榈油,黑醋栗籽油,奇异果籽油,葡萄子油,阿月浑子籽油,笋瓜油,南瓜油,麝香玫瑰油,芝麻油,豆油,向日葵油,蓖麻油和西瓜子油,和其混合物,或备选地辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯,例如由Stearineries Dubois公司出售的那些或以Miglyol 810®, 812®和818®的名称由Dynamit Nobel公司销售的那些,- Hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as phytosterol esters, such as phytosterol oleate, phytosterol isostearate and lauryl/octyldodecyl/phytosterol glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular where the fatty acids may have chain lengths from C4 to C36, especially C18 to C36, these oils may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated ; these oils may be, inter alia, heptanoic or caprylic triglycerides, shea butter, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, winter squash oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candal oil, tomato Lotus Oil, Shea Butter, Aloe Vera Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Peach Kernel Oil, Peanut Oil, Argan Oil, Avocado Oil, Kapok Oil, Borage Seed Oil, Broccoli Oil, Calendula Oil, Camelina Oil, Mustard Flower Oil, Carrot Oil, Safflower Oil, Flaxseed Oil, Canola Oil, Cottonseed Oil, Coconut Oil, Marrow Seed Oil, Wheat Germ Oil, Jojoba Oil, Lily Flower Oil, Macadamia Oil, Corn Oil, White Pond Seed Oil , St. John's Wort Oil, Gardenia Oil, Hazelnut Oil, Almond Oil, Walnut Oil, Olive Oil, Evening Primrose Oil, Palm Oil, Black Currant Seed Oil, Kiwi Seed Oil, Grape Seed Oil, Pistachio Seed oil, winter squash oil, pumpkin oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon seed oil, and mixtures thereof, or alternatively caprylic/capric triglycerides, such as sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those marketed by the company Dynamit Nobel under the name Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818®,
-无机或合成源头的线性或分枝的烃,例如液体链烷烃和其衍生物,凡士林,聚癸烯,聚丁烯,氢化聚异丁烯例如Parleam,和角鲨烷;- linear or branched hydrocarbons of inorganic or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecene, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane;
-含10至40个碳原子的合成醚;- synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
-合成酯,例如式R1COOR2的油,其中R1是含1至40个碳原子的线性或分枝的脂肪酸残基,R2是烃基链,其尤其是分枝的,含1至40个碳原子,条件是链R1和R2中的碳原子数目之和大于或等于10。酯可以尤其选自醇的脂肪酸酯,例如辛酸鲸蜡硬脂酯,异丙醇酯,例如豆蔻酸异丙酯,棕榈酸异丙酯,棕榈酸乙酯,棕榈酸2-乙基己酯,硬脂酸异丙酯,异硬脂酸异丙酯,异硬脂酸异硬脂醇酯,硬脂酸辛酯,羟基化的酯,例如乳酸异硬脂醇酯,羟基硬脂酸辛酯,己二酸二异丙酯,庚酸酯,和尤其庚酸异硬脂醇酯,醇或多元醇辛酸酯、癸酸酯或蓖麻醇酸酯,例如丙二醇二辛酸酯,辛酸鲸蜡醇酯,辛酸十三烷基酯,2-乙基己基4-二庚酸酯(2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate),棕榈酸2-乙基己酯,苯甲酸烷基酯,聚乙二醇二庚酸酯,丙二醇2-二乙基己酸酯,和其混合物,苯甲酸C12-C15醇酯,月桂酸己酯,新戊酸酯,例如新戊酸异癸酯,新戊酸异十三烷基酯,新戊酸异硬脂醇酯,新戊酸辛基十二烷基酯,异壬酸酯,例如异壬酸异壬酯,异壬酸异十三烷基酯,异壬酸辛基酯,羟基化的酯,例如乳酸异硬脂醇酯和二异硬脂醇苹果酸酯,- synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1COOR2, wherein R1 is a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, R2 is a hydrocarbyl chain, especially branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, Provided that the sum of the number of carbon atoms in chains R1 and R2 is greater than or equal to 10. Esters may be chosen especially from fatty acid esters of alcohols, such as cetearyl caprylate, isopropanol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate , isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, Diisopropyl adipate, enanthate, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyol caprylate, caprate, or ricinoleate, such as propylene glycol dicaprylate, cetyl caprylate Alcohol Esters, Tridecyl Octanoate, 2-Ethylhexyl 4-Diheptanoate, 2-Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Alkyl Benzoate, Polyethylene Glycol Di Heptanoate, Propylene Glycol 2-Diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 Alcohol Benzoate, Hexyl Laurate, Neopentanoate, such as Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Isotridecyl Neopentanoate Alkyl esters, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoates such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isonononanoate, octyl isonononanoate Esters, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate,
-多元醇酯和季戊四醇酯,例如二聚季戊四醇四羟基硬脂酸酯/四异硬脂酸酯,- polyol and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,
-二醇二聚物和二酸二聚物的酯,如Lusplan DD-DA5®和Lusplan DD-DA7®,由Nippon Fine Chemical出售并且描述于专利申请US 2004-175 338中,- Esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, sold by Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application US 2004-175 338,
-二醇二聚物和二酸二聚物的共聚物和其酯,如二亚油基二醇二聚物/二亚油酸二聚物(dilinoleyl diol dimer/dilinoleic dimer)共聚物和其酯,例如Plandool-G,- Copolymers of diol dimer and diacid dimer and their esters, such as dilinoleyl diol dimer/dilinoleic dimer (dilinoleyl diol dimer/dilinoleic dimer) copolymers and their esters , such as Planool-G,
-多元醇和二酸二聚物的共聚物,和其酯,如Hailuscent ISDA或二亚油酸(dilinoleic acid)/丁二醇共聚物,- copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA or dilinoleic acid/butylene glycol copolymers,
-在室温下是液体的、具有含12至26个碳原子的分枝的和/或不饱和的碳基链的脂肪醇,例如2-辛基十二烷醇,异硬脂醇,油醇,2-己基癸醇,2-丁基辛醇和2-十一烷基十五烷醇;- fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature and have a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol , 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol;
-C12-C22高级脂肪酸,如油酸,亚油酸或亚麻酸,和其混合物,- C12-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,
-碳酸二烷基酯,两个烷基链可能是相同或不同的,例如碳酸二辛酯,在Cetiol CC®的名称下由Cognis销售,- dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains may be the same or different, such as dioctyl carbonate, sold by Cognis under the name Cetiol CC®,
-高摩尔量的油,特别地摩尔量为约400至约10000克/摩尔,特别地约650至约10000克/摩尔,特别地,约750至约7500克/摩尔,更特别地约1000至约5000克/摩尔。作为可用于本发明的高摩尔量的油,尤其可以提及选自以下的油:- oils of high molar mass, in particular a molar mass of from about 400 to about 10000 g/mol, especially from about 650 to about 10000 g/mol, especially from about 750 to about 7500 g/mol, more particularly from about 1000 to About 5000 g/mol. As high molar oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may especially be made of oils selected from the group consisting of:
*亲脂性聚合物,* lipophilic polymers,
*总碳数为35至70的线性脂肪酸酯,*Linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number of 35 to 70,
*羟基化的酯,*Hydroxylated esters,
*芳香族酯,*aromatic esters,
*C24-C28分枝的脂肪酸或脂肪醇酯,*C24-C28 branched fatty acid or fatty alcohol ester,
*硅油,*Silicone oil,
*植物来源的油,和* Oils of vegetable origin, and
*其混合物;* mixtures thereof;
-任选地部分烃基和/或硅氧烷氟代油,例如氟代硅油,氟代聚醚和氟代硅氧烷,如文件EP-A-847752中所述的;- optionally partially hydrocarbyl and/or silicone fluorinated oils, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers and fluorosilicones, as described in document EP-A-847752;
-硅油,例如线性或环状的非挥发性的聚二甲基硅氧烷(PDMS);聚二甲基硅氧烷,包括烷基、烷氧基或苯基,其是悬垂的或者在硅酮链的末端,这些基团包含2至24个碳原子;苯基硅氧烷聚合物,例如苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷,苯基聚二甲基硅氧烷,苯基三甲基硅氧基二苯基硅氧烷,二苯基聚二甲基硅氧烷,二苯基甲基二苯基三硅氧烷和2-苯乙基三甲基硅氧基硅酸酯,和- Silicone oils, such as linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes, including alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl, which are pendant or in silicon The end of the ketone chain, these groups contain 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsiloxane polymers such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone Siloxydiphenylsiloxane, Diphenyldimethicone, Diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, and 2-Phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate, and
-其混合物。- mixtures thereof.
根据一种特别的实施方案,根据本发明的组合物的脂肪相可以仅仅包含挥发性化合物。According to a particular embodiment, the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise only volatile compounds.
添加剂additive
在特别的实施方案中,根据本发明的化妆品组合物还包括至少一种选自以下的化合物:水,亲水性溶剂,亲脂性溶剂,油,和其混合物。In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises at least one compound selected from the group consisting of water, hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents, oils, and mixtures thereof.
根据本发明的化妆品组合物还可包括任何通常用于所关注的领域中的添加剂,例如,其选自胶,阴离子、阳离子、两性或非离子型表面活性剂,硅氧烷表面活性剂,树脂,增稠剂,结构化试剂如蜡,分散剂,抗氧化剂,精油,防腐剂,香料,中和剂,防腐剂,UV-遮蔽剂,化妆用的活性剂,如维生素,润湿剂,润肤剂或胶原-保护剂,和其混合物。The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additives usually used in the field concerned, for example selected from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins , thickeners, structuring agents such as waxes, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizers, preservatives, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents such as vitamins, humectants, emollients Skin agents or collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.
对于本领域技术人员来说,调整根据本发明的组合物中所存在的添加剂的属性和数量以便由此没有影响所期望的其的化妆性能和稳定性能,是一项常规操作的事情。It is a matter of routine for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of additives present in the compositions according to the invention so as not to thereby affect their desired cosmetic and stabilizing properties.
另外的着色剂additional colorants
根据本发明的组合物还可以包括至少一种着色剂。根据本发明的化妆品组合物可以有利地结合至少一种选自以下的着色剂:有机或无机着色剂,特别地如常规用于化妆品组合物中的颜料,其可以是脂溶性的或水溶性的,和其混合物。The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one colorant. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may advantageously incorporate at least one colorant selected from the group consisting of organic or inorganic colorants, in particular pigments as conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, which may be fat-soluble or water-soluble , and mixtures thereof.
特别地,另外的无机着色剂是二氧化钛,其用于改善在皮肤上的覆盖性能。In particular, an additional inorganic colorant is titanium dioxide, which is used to improve the coverage properties on the skin.
特别地,另外的有机颜料用于为产品提供更好的外观。In particular, additional organic pigments are used to give a better appearance to the product.
另外的着色剂的含量可以为0.001至5%、优选0.01至2%、和更优选0.5至2%。The content of additional colorants may be 0.001 to 5%, preferably 0.01 to 2%, and more preferably 0.5 to 2%.
术语"颜料"应当理解为是指白色或有色的、无机或有机颗粒,其不溶于水溶液中并且意图使所得的薄膜带颜色和/或不透明。The term "pigments" is understood to mean white or colored, inorganic or organic particles, which are insoluble in aqueous solutions and which are intended to impart color and/or opacity to the resulting film.
作为可用于本发明的无机颜料,可以提及氧化钛或二氧化钛,氧化锆或二氧化铈,以及氧化锌,铁氧化物或氧化铬,铁蓝(ferric blue),锰紫,群青(ultramarine blue)和铬水合物。作为优选的无机颜料,可以提及二氧化钛,铁氧化物和其混合物。As inorganic pigments that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide or titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, but also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate. As preferred inorganic pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof.
优选地,无机颜料是二氧化钛。Preferably, the inorganic pigment is titanium dioxide.
二氧化钛可以是,例如,表面处理的二氧化钛。适用于本发明的表面处理的二氧化钛的非限制性实例可以是这样的二氧化钛,其表面用C9-15氟代醇磷酸酯处理和/或进一步用金属氧化物处理。The titanium dioxide can be, for example, surface-treated titanium dioxide. A non-limiting example of a surface-treated titanium dioxide suitable for use in the present invention may be titanium dioxide surface-treated with a C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and/or further treated with a metal oxide.
优选地,可以提及用C9-C15氟代醇磷酸酯表面处理的二氧化钛,以PF-5 TiO2 CR-50的商品名由Daito Kasei Kogyo销售的,或者用C9-C15氟代醇磷酸酯表面处理的二氧化钛,以PFX-5 TiO2 CR-50的商品名由Daito Kasei Kogyo销售的。Preferably, mention may be made of titanium dioxide surface-treated with C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate, sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the trade name PF-5 TiO2 CR-50, or surface-treated with C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate Titanium dioxide sold under the tradename PFX-5 TiO2 CR-50 by Daito Kasei Kogyo.
在可用于本发明中的有机颜料之中,可以提及炭黑,D&C类型的颜料,基于胭脂虫红(cochineal carmine)或基于钡、锶、钙或铝的色淀,或者备选地二酮基吡咯并吡咯(DPP),如文件EP-A-542669、EP-A-787730、EP-A-787731和WO-A-96/08537中所述的。Among the organic pigments that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of the D&C type, lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum, or alternatively diketones Dipyrrolopyrrole (DPP) as described in documents EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537.
下述名称的那些是在可尤其提及的有机颜料之中:D&C蓝No. 4,D&C 褐No. 1,D&C绿No. 5,D&C 绿No. 6,D&C 橙No. 4,D&C 橙No. 5,D&C 橙No. 10,D&C 橙No. 11,D&C 红No. 6,D&C 红No. 7,D&C 红No. 17,D&C 红No. 21,D&C 红No. 22,D&C 红No. 27,D&C 红No. 28,D&C 红No. 30,D&C 红No. 31,D&C 红No. 33,D&C 红No. 34,D&C 红No. 36,D&C紫No. 2,D&C 黄No. 7,D&C 黄No. 8,D&C 黄No. 10,D&C 黄No. 11,FD&C 蓝No. 1,FD&C绿No. 3,FD&C 红No. 40,FD&C 黄No. 5,FD&C 黄No. 6,D&C 黑2(炭黑)和酞菁蓝,和其混合物。Those with the following names are among the organic pigments which may especially be mentioned: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. . 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27 , D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Purple No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Black 2 (carbon black) and phthalocyanine blue, and mixtures thereof.
根据本发明的化妆品组合物还可以包括水溶性或脂溶性染料。脂溶性染料,例如,苏丹红,DC 红17,DC 绿6,β-胡萝卜素,苏丹褐,DC 黄11,DC 紫2,DC 橙5和喹啉黄。水溶性染料例如是甜菜根汁和焦糖色(caramel)。根据一种具体的实施方案,本发明的组合物包括至少一种特别的着色剂,其选自:角色差(goniochromatic)着色剂、光致变色着色剂、荧光剂、光学增亮剂、色淀、有机颜料、复合颜料、和其混合物。The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. Fat-soluble dyes, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-Carotene, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, and Quinoline Yellow. Water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one particular colorant selected from the group consisting of: goniochromatic colorants, photochromic colorants, fluorescent agents, optical brighteners, lakes , organic pigments, composite pigments, and mixtures thereof.
填料filler
根据本发明的组合物还可以包括至少一种有机或无机性质的填料。The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler of organic or inorganic nature.
通常,填料在本发明的组合物中的含量为0.1至20wt%,优选0.5至10wt%,和更优选1至5wt%,按组合物的重量计。Typically, fillers are present in the compositions of the invention in an amount of 0.1 to 20 wt%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt%, and more preferably 1 to 5 wt%, by weight of the composition.
在特别的实施方案中,填料的含量小于5wt%,优选地小于3wt%,按组合物的重量计。In a particular embodiment, the filler is present in an amount of less than 5 wt%, preferably less than 3 wt%, by weight of the composition.
术语"填料"应当理解为是指任何形状的无色或白色固体颗粒,其是不溶于并且分散在组合物的介质中的形式的。它们在性质上是无机或有机的并且使赋予柔和性和无光泽给所述组合物以及均一的化妆结果成为可能。The term "filler" is understood to mean colorless or white solid particles of any shape, which are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. They are inorganic or organic in nature and make it possible to impart softness and matteness to the composition and a uniform cosmetic result.
用于根据本发明的组合物中的填料可以是薄片状、小球状或球状形式的,纤维形式的或者介于这些规定形式之间的任何其它中间形式的。The fillers used in the composition according to the invention may be in the form of flakes, pellets or spheres, in the form of fibers or in any other intermediate form between these specified forms.
根据本发明的填料可以或未必进行表面涂覆,特别地它们可以用硅氧烷、氨基酸、氟代衍生物或任何其它物质(促进填料在组合物中的分散和兼容性)进行表面处理。The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, in particular they may be surface-treated with siloxanes, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which facilitates the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.
在可用于根据本发明的组合物中的无机填料之中,可以提及滑石,云母,二氧化硅,三甲基硅氧基硅酸酯,高岭土,膨润土,碳酸钙,碳酸氢镁,羟磷灰石,氮化硼,中空二氧化硅微球(二氧化硅珠,获自Maprecos),玻璃或陶瓷微胶囊,二氧化硅基填料,例如Aerosil200或Aerosil 300;Sunsphere H-33和Sunsphere H-51,由Asahi Glass出售的;由AsahiChemical出售的Chemicelen;二氧化硅和二氧化钛的复合材料,例如由Nippon SheetGlass出售的TSG系列,和其混合物。Among the inorganic fillers that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, trimethylsiloxysilicate, kaolin, bentonite, calcium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyphosphorus Limestone, boron nitride, hollow silica microspheres (silica beads, from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica-based fillers such as Aerosil 200 or Aerosil 300; Sunsphere H-33 and Sunsphere H- 51, sold by Asahi Glass; Chemicelen sold by Asahi Chemical; composite materials of silica and titanium dioxide, such as TSG series sold by Nippon SheetGlass, and mixtures thereof.
适于本发明的填料可以择优地是滑石、二氧化硅、或其混合物。Fillers suitable for the present invention may preferably be talc, silica, or mixtures thereof.
在可用于根据本发明的组合物中的有机填料之中,可以提及聚酰胺粉末(Nylon®Orgasol,获自Atochem),聚β-氨基丙酸和聚乙烯粉末,聚四氟乙烯(Teflon®)粉末,月桂酰赖氨酸,淀粉,四氟乙烯聚合物粉末,中空聚合物微球,例如Expancel(Nobel Industrie),源自含8至22个碳原子,优选地12至18个碳原子的有机羧酸的金属皂,例如硬脂酸锌,硬脂酸镁或硬脂酸锂,月桂酸锌,豆蔻酸镁,Polypore® L 200(Chemdal Corporation),有机硅树脂微珠(Tospearl®,获自Toshiba,例如),聚氨酯粉末,特别地包括共聚物的交联的聚氨酯的粉末,所述共聚物包括三羟甲基己内酯,例如二异氰酸六亚甲基酯/三羟甲基己内酯聚合物,以Plastic Powder D-400®或Plastic Powder D-800®的名称由Toshiki公司销售,巴西棕榈微晶蜡,例如以MicroCare 350®的名称由Micro Powders公司销售的产品,合成蜡的微晶蜡,例如以MicroEase 114S®的名称由Micro Powders公司销售的产品,由巴西棕榈蜡和聚乙烯蜡的混合物构成的微晶蜡,例如以MicroCare 300®和310®的名称由MicroPowders公司销售的那些,由巴西棕榈蜡和合成蜡的混合物构成的微晶蜡,例如由MicroPowders公司以MicroCare 325®的名称销售的产品,聚乙烯微晶蜡,例如以Micropoly 200®,220®,220L®和250S®的名称由Micro Powders公司销售的那些;和其混合物。Among the organic fillers that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), poly-beta-alanine and polyethylene powders, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon® ) powder, lauroyl lysine, starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powder, hollow polymer microspheres, such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), derived from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms Metal soaps of organic carboxylic acids, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl®, obtained from From Toshiba, for example), powders of polyurethanes, in particular of crosslinked polyurethanes comprising copolymers comprising trimethylol caprolactone, for example hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol Caprolactone polymers, sold by the company Toshiki under the names Plastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800®, carnauba microcrystalline waxes, such as those sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic waxes microcrystalline waxes such as those sold by Micro Powders under the name MicroEase 114S®, microcrystalline waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those sold by MicroPowders under the names MicroCare 300® and 310® Microcrystalline waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic waxes, such as that sold under the name MicroCare 325® by the company MicroPowders, polyethylene microcrystalline waxes, such as Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® those sold by the company Micro Powders; and mixtures thereof.
UV防晒成分UV sunscreen ingredients
根据本发明的屏蔽(screening)组合物包括有机和/或无机UV防晒成分,其在UV-A和/或UV-B区域中是活性的,其是亲水的和/或亲油的。The screening compositions according to the invention comprise organic and/or inorganic UV sunscreen ingredients, which are active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region, which are hydrophilic and/or lipophilic.
亲水和/或亲油有机UV防晒成分特别地选自二苯甲酰基甲烷衍生物;肉桂酸(cinnamic)衍生物;水杨酸(salicylic)衍生物;二苯甲酮衍生物;β,β-二苯基丙烯酸酯衍生物;对氨基苯甲酸(PABA)衍生物;和其混合物。Hydrophilic and/or lipophilic organic UV sunscreen ingredients are chosen in particular from dibenzoylmethane derivatives; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; - Diphenylacrylate derivatives; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; and mixtures thereof.
作为有机UV防晒成分的例子,可以提及以下用其INCI名称表示的那些:As examples of organic UV sunscreen ingredients, mention may be made of the following, indicated by their INCI names:
-对氨基苯甲酸衍生物:- p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives:
-PABA,-PABA,
-乙基PABA,- Ethyl PABA,
-乙基二羟基丙基PABA,-Ethyldihydroxypropyl PABA,
-乙基己基二甲基PABA,特别地在商标"Escalol 507"下由ISP销售,- Ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, sold in particular by ISP under the trademark "Escalol 507",
-甘油基PABA,- Glyceryl PABA,
-二苯甲酰基甲烷衍生物:-Dibenzoylmethane derivatives:
-丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰基甲烷,特别地在商标"Parsol 1789"下由Hoffmann-LaRoche销售,- Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, sold in particular under the trademark "Parsol 1789" by Hoffmann-LaRoche,
-异丙基二苯甲酰基甲烷,- Isopropyldibenzoylmethane,
-水杨酸衍生物:- Salicylic acid derivatives:
-胡莫柳酯,在商标"Eusolex HMS"下由Rona/EM Industries销售,- Homosalate, sold under the trademark "Eusolex HMS" by Rona/EM Industries,
-水杨酸乙基己酯,在商标"Neo Heliopan OS"下由Haarmann and Reimer销售,- Ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan OS" by Haarmann and Reimer,
-双丙甘醇水杨酸酯,在商标"Dipsal"下由Scher销售,- dipropylene glycol salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Dipsal" by Scher,
-三乙醇胺水杨酸盐,在商标"Neo Heliopan TS"下由Haarmann and Reimer销售,- Triethanolamine salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan TS" by Haarmann and Reimer,
-肉桂衍生物:- Cinnamon Derivatives:
-甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯,特别地在商标"Parsol MCX"下由Hoffmann-LaRoche销售,- ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, sold in particular by Hoffmann-LaRoche under the trademark "Parsol MCX",
-甲氧基肉桂酸异丙酯,- Isopropyl methoxycinnamate,
-甲氧基肉桂酸异戊酯,在商标"Neo Heliopan E 1000"下由Haarmann andReimer销售,- Isoamyl methoxycinnamate, sold under the trademark "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Haarmann and Reimer,
-西诺沙酯,- Cinoxate,
-甲氧基肉桂酸DEA盐,-Methoxycinnamic acid DEA salt,
-甲基肉桂酸二异丙酯(Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate),-Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate,
-甘油乙基己酸酯二甲氧基肉桂酸酯,- Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate,
-β,β-二苯基丙烯酸酯衍生物:-β,β-Diphenylacrylate derivatives:
-欧托奎雷,特别地在商标"Uvinul N539"下由BASF销售,- Otoquire, marketed in particular by BASF under the trademark "Uvinul N539",
-依託立林,特别地在商标"Uvinul N35"下由BASF销售,- Relying on LEELIN, especially marketed by BASF under the trademark "Uvinul N35",
-二苯甲酮衍生物:- Benzophenone derivatives:
-二苯甲酮-1,在商标"Uvinul 400"下由BASF销售,- Benzophenone-1, marketed by BASF under the trademark "Uvinul 400",
-二苯甲酮-2,在商标"Uvinul D50"下由BASF销售,- Benzophenone-2, marketed by BASF under the trademark "Uvinul D50",
-二苯甲酮-3或氧苯酮,在商标"Uvinul M40"下由BASF销售,- benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, marketed by BASF under the trademark "Uvinul M40",
-二苯甲酮-4,在商标"Uvinul MS40"下由BASF销售,- Benzophenone-4, marketed by BASF under the trademark "Uvinul MS40",
-二苯甲酮-5,- Benzophenone-5,
-二苯甲酮-6,在商标"Helisorb 11"下由Norquay销售,- Benzophenone-6, marketed by Norquay under the trademark "Helisorb 11",
和其混合物。and its mixture.
优选的UV防晒成分选自肉桂酸衍生物,β,β-二苯基丙烯酸酯衍生物,水杨酸衍生物,和其混合物。Preferred UV sunscreen ingredients are selected from cinnamic acid derivatives, β,β-diphenylacrylate derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
优选的UV防晒成分尤其选自甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯,欧托奎雷和水杨酸乙基己酯,和其混合物。Preferred UV sunscreen ingredients are especially selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, otocquirel and ethylhexyl salicylate, and mixtures thereof.
尤其可以提及的是:甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯,以UVINUL MC 80®商品名由BASF公司销售的;水杨酸乙基己酯,以NEO HELIOPAN OS®商品名由SYMRISE公司销售的;和欧托奎雷,以NEO HELIOPAN 303®商品名由SYMRISE公司销售的。Mention may especially be made of: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, sold under the trade name UVINUL MC 80® by the company BASF; ethylhexyl salicylate, sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN OS® by the company SYMRISE and Otoquire, marketed under the tradename NEO HELIOPAN 303® by the company SYMRISE.
根据本发明的组合物可以包括0.1wt%至30wt%,例如0.5至20wt%,例如1至15wt%,和例如至少1wt%的UV防晒成分,相对于组合物的总重量。Compositions according to the invention may comprise 0.1 to 30 wt%, such as 0.5 to 20 wt%, such as 1 to 15 wt%, and such as at least 1 wt%, of UV sunscreen ingredients, relative to the total weight of the composition.
实施例Example
实施例1:具有本发明的组合的乳液O/W。Example 1: Emulsion O/W with combination of the invention.
在研究后,良好的实施例,其外观是带粉红色的稍白的,能够传递非常健康的发光光学效应。Good examples, after research, are pinkish-white in appearance, capable of delivering a very healthy glowing optical effect.
制备方法。Preparation.
加热相A至约75℃并且在其中合并各种成分;Heating Phase A to about 75°C and combining the ingredients therein;
制备相B,并且加热到大约75℃;Prepare Phase B and heat to about 75°C;
混合相A和B,用Rayneri搅拌混合物直到获得均质乳液;Mix phases A and B and stir the mixture with a Rayneri until a homogeneous emulsion is obtained;
将其余的相并入乳液并且搅拌混合物直到其冷却。The remaining phases were combined into the emulsion and the mixture was stirred until it cooled.
评估方法和结果Evaluation Methodology and Results
将实施例1的本发明的组合物施用到30位亚洲妇女的皮肤上。在施用组合物后立即由3位专家评估施用后的结果。The composition of the present invention of Example 1 was applied to the skin of 30 Asian women. The results after application were evaluated by 3 experts immediately after application of the composition.
评估结果evaluation result
在施用后立即进行,结果表明:Immediately after application, the results showed:
主要表现皮肤色调的其它颜色组分变化如下:Changes in other color components that mainly represent skin tone are as follows:
这些变化表明实施例1的组合物在施用后马上显著増亮了皮肤色调。These changes indicate that the composition of Example 1 significantly brightens skin tone immediately after application.
全部这些数据已经显示在施用实施例1的组合物后马上的皮肤光度的显著改善。All these data already show a significant improvement in skin luminosity immediately after application of the composition of Example 1.
全部所研究的指标(L、B、T、橄榄色、黄色、和粉红色)朝着期望的方向。All studied indicators (L, B, T, olive, yellow, and pink) are in the desired direction.
实施例2:本发明的组合的效果。Example 2: Effect of the combination of the invention.
制备3份对比实施例以便评估效果,同实施例1的本发明相比较。Three comparative examples were prepared in order to evaluate the effects, compared with the present invention of Example 1.
制备方法。Preparation.
加热相A至约75℃并且在其中合并各种成分;Heating Phase A to about 75°C and combining the ingredients therein;
制备相B,并且加热到大约75℃;Prepare Phase B and heat to about 75°C;
混合相A和B,用Rayneri搅拌混合物直到获得均质乳液;Mix phases A and B and stir the mixture with a Rayneri until a homogeneous emulsion is obtained;
将其余的相并入乳液并且搅拌混合物直到其冷却。The remaining phases were combined into the emulsion and the mixture was stirred until it cooled.
评估方法和结果Evaluation Methodology and Results
将实施例1、对比实施例1、2和3的组合物施用到6位亚洲妇女的皮肤。施用后的结果由2为专家评估。The compositions of Example 1, Comparative Examples 1, 2 and 3 were applied to the skin of 6 Asian women. The results after application were evaluated by 2 experts.
本发明所产生的光亮和健康的发光效果是对皮肤的增亮、抗黄色和增白效果的总效果。The brightening and healthy glow effect produced by the present invention is the total effect of lightening, anti-yellowing and whitening effects on the skin.
测试结果示于下表中。The test results are shown in the table below.
5:非常高的效果;5: very high effect;
4:高的效果;4: High effect;
3:中等效果;3: medium effect;
2:低效果;2: low effect;
1:无效果。1: No effect.
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JP6178089B2 (en) * | 2013-03-27 | 2017-08-09 | ポーラ化成工業株式会社 | Dullness improvement cosmetic |
FR3042706B1 (en) * | 2015-10-26 | 2017-12-08 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONFERRING A NATURAL TINT AND A GOOD MINE EFFECT |
KR102139250B1 (en) * | 2015-12-18 | 2020-07-30 | 로레알 | Composition with improved radiance effect |
CN106038465B (en) * | 2016-07-12 | 2019-04-19 | 广州智媛生物科技有限公司 | A kind of composition and preparation method thereof with bright color effect |
JP6995472B2 (en) * | 2016-10-31 | 2022-01-14 | ロレアル | Composition for natural skin lightening effect |
JP7242256B2 (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2023-03-20 | ロレアル | Makeup powder composition containing goniochromatic pigment and white pigment |
WO2020160236A1 (en) * | 2019-02-01 | 2020-08-06 | Beiersdorf Ag | Sunscreen compositions |
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CN1395917A (en) * | 2001-06-25 | 2003-02-12 | 花王株式会社 | Cosmetic composition |
CN101891969A (en) * | 2009-05-15 | 2010-11-24 | 默克专利股份有限公司 | Pigment composition |
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FR2921261B1 (en) * | 2007-09-20 | 2009-11-20 | Oreal | ANHYDROUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING FIBERS |
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CN1395917A (en) * | 2001-06-25 | 2003-02-12 | 花王株式会社 | Cosmetic composition |
CN101891969A (en) * | 2009-05-15 | 2010-11-24 | 默克专利股份有限公司 | Pigment composition |
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