FR2867677A1 - Cosmetic composition in the form of stick, useful as e.g. skin care product, comprises a structuring agent and concave particles, particularly in the form of portions of hollow spheres - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition (A) in the form of stick comprises at least a structuring agent (I) and concave particles (II), particularly in the form of portions of hollow spheres. Independent claims are also included for: (1) lipstick; and (2) cosmetic process of make-up or nontherapeutic treatment of the skin or lips comprising application of (A) on the skin or lips.

Description

The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition

  comprising a structuring agent wax and concave particles. The invention also relates to a process for making up the skin or the lips of a human being comprising applying the composition to the skin or the lips.

  The composition according to the invention may be a make-up or skin or lip care composition, such as a lipstick, a foundation, an eyeshadow, a blush, a concealer, a concealer lip care product, a skin care product, a sunscreen product. More specifically, the invention relates to a lipstick stick.

  Lipstick sticks usually include waxes as a structuring agent, fillers and oils. The fillers make it possible to increase the amount of product deposited on the lips when the stick is applied to the lips. But their use, especially in contents greater than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the stick, hinders the obtaining of the glossy deposit on the lips and also leads to a hard stick conferring after application a sensation of dryness, tugging making the lipstick uncomfortable for the user.

  The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a solid cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a stick, having a good slipperiness when applied to the skin or the lips, imparting a creamy, non-drying sensation that is comfortable for the user and forming a brilliant deposit.

  The inventors have discovered that such a composition is obtained by using a structuring agent, in particular a wax, and particles of concave shape.

  More specifically, the subject of the invention is a solid cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a stick, comprising at least one structuring agent and concave particles.

  The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for makeup or non-therapeutic treatment of the skin or the lips comprising the application to the skin or the lips of a composition as defined above.

  By solid composition is meant a composition which does not flow under its own weight at ambient temperature (25 C); the solid composition is in particular a self-supporting composition. Preferably, the solid composition is in the form of a stick, preferably stick-shaped.

  The composition according to the invention comprises concave particles. These particles therefore have a surface having an internal rounding.

  In particular, the concave particles are particles of portions of hollow spheres made of a material, in particular of an organosilicone material.

  Said concave particles advantageously have an average diameter ranging from 0.05 pm to 10 pm.

  The portions of hollow spheres used in the composition according to the invention may have the form of truncated hollow spheres, having a single orifice communicating with their central cavity, and having a cross section in the form of horseshoe or arch.

  The organosilicon material is a cross-linked polysiloxane of three-dimensional structure; it preferably comprises, or consists of, units of formula (I): SiO2 and of formula (II): R1 SiO1,5 in which R1 denotes an organic group having a carbon atom directly connected to the silicon atom . The organic group may be a reactive organic group, a non-reactive organic group, and preferably a non-reactive organic group.

  The non-reactive organic group may be a C1-C4 alkyl group, especially a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl group, or a phenyl group, and preferably a methyl group.

  The reactive organic group may be an epoxy group, a (meth) acryloxy group, an alkenyl group, a mercaptoalkyl, aminoalkyl, haloalkyl group, a glyceroxy group, a ureido group, a cyano group. Preferably, the reactive organic group may be an epoxy group, a (meth) acryloxy group, an alkenyl group, a mercaptoalkyl, aminoalkyl group. The reactive organic group generally comprises from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, especially from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.

  As the epoxy group, there may be mentioned a 2-glycidoxyethyl group, a 3 glycidoxypropyl group, a 2- (3,4-epoxycyclohexyl) propyl group.

  As the (meth) acryloxy group, there may be mentioned a 3-methacryloxypropyl group, a 3-acryloxypropyl group.

  As the alkenyl group, there may be mentioned a vinyl, allyl, isopropenyl group.

  As mercaptoalkyl group, there may be mentioned a mercaptopropyl, mercaptoethyl group. As the aminoalkyl group, there may be mentioned a 3- (2-aminoethyl) aminopropyl group, a 3-aminopropyl group, a N, N-dimethylaminopropyl group.

  Haloalkyl is 3-chloropropyl, trifluoropropyl.

  As glyceroxy group, there may be mentioned a 3-glyceroxypropyl group, a 2-glyceroxyethyl group.

  As the ureido group, there may be mentioned a 2-ureidoethyl group.

  As the cyano group, there may be mentioned a cyanopropyl, cyanoethyl group.

  Preferably, in the unit of formula (II), R1 denotes a methyl group.

  Advantageously, the organosilicone material comprises the units (I) and (II) in a molar ratio of unit (I) I unit (II) ranging from 30170 to 50/50, preferably ranging from 35/65 to 45/55.

  The organosilicon particles may in particular be capable of being obtained in a process comprising: (a) introduction into an aqueous medium, in the presence of at least one hydrolysis catalyst, and optionally at least one a surfactant, a compound (III) of formula SiX4 and a compound (IV) of formula RSiY3, where X and Y denote independently of one another a C1-C4 alkoxy group, an alkoxyethoxy group containing a C1-C4 alkoxy group, a C2-C4 acyloxy group, an N, N-dialkylamino group containing a C1-C4 alkyl group, a hydroxyl group, a halogen atom or a hydrogen atom, and R denotes an organic group having a carbon atom directly attached to the silicon atom; and (b) contacting the mixture resulting from step (a) with an aqueous solution containing at least one polymerization catalyst and optionally at least one surfactant, at a temperature between 30 and 85 C, for at least two hours.

  Step (a) corresponds to a hydrolysis reaction and step (b) corresponds to a condensation reaction.

  In step (a), the molar ratio of the compound (III) to the compound (IV) is usually 30170 to 50/50, preferably 35165 to 45/45, and is preferably 40/60. The weight ratio of water to total of compounds (III) and (IV) is preferably from 10/90 to 70/30. The order of introduction of the compounds (III) and (IV) generally depends on their rate of hydrolysis. The temperature of the hydrolysis reaction is generally from 0 to 40 ° C. and usually does not exceed 30 ° C. to avoid premature condensation of the compounds.

  For the groups X and Y of the compounds (III) and (IV): As C 1 -C 4 alkoxy group, mention may be made of methoxy and ethoxy groups; As the alkoxyethoxy group containing a C1-C4 alkoxy group, there may be mentioned methoxyethoxy, butoxyethoxy groups; C 2 -C 4 alkoxy groups include acetoxy and propoxy groups; As N, N-dilakylamino group containing a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, there may be mentioned dimethylamino groups, diethylamino; As a halogen atom, mention may be made of chlorine and bromine atoms.

  As compounds of formula (III), there may be mentioned tetramethoxysilane, tetraethoxysilane, tetrabutoxysilane, trimethoxyethoxysilane, tributoxyethoxysilane, tetraacetoxysilane, tetrapropioxysilane, tetraacetoxysilane, tetra (dimethylamino) silane, tetra (diethylamino) silane, silane tetraol, chlorosilane triol, dichlorodisilanol, tetraschlorosilane, chlorotrihydrogensilane. Preferably, the compound of formula (III) is chosen from tetramethoxysilane, tetraethoxysilane and tetrabutoxysilane, and mixtures thereof.

  The compound of formula (III) leads after the polymerization reaction to the formation of units of formula (I).

  The compound of formula (IV) leads after the polymerization reaction to the formation of units of formula (II).

  The group R in the compound of formula (IV) has the meaning as described for the group R1 for the compound of formula (II).

  Examples of compounds of formula (IV) having a non-reactive organic group R include methyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, propyltributoxysilane, butyltributoxysilane, phenyltrimethoxyethoxysilane, methyl tributoxyethoxysilane, methyltriacetoxysilane, methyltripropioxysilane and methyltriacetoxysilane. methyltri (dimethylamino) silane, methyltri (diethylamino) silane, methylsilane triol, methylchlorodisilanol, methyltrichlorosilane, methyltrihydrogensilane.

  Examples of compounds of formula (IV) having a reactive organic group R include: silanes having an epoxy group such as 3-glycidoxypropyl trimethoxysilane, 3-glycidoxypropyl triethoxysilane, 2- (3,4-epoxycyclohexyl) ethyl trimethoxysilane, 3-glycidoxypropylmethyl dimethoxysilane, 3-glycidoxypropylmethyl dimethoxysilane, 2-glycidoxyethylmethyldimethoxysilane, 3-glycidoxypropyl dimethylmethoxysilane, 2-glycidoxyethyl dimethylmethoxysilane; silanes having a (meth) acryloxy group such as 3-methacryloxypropyl trimethoxysilane, 3-acryloxypropyl trimethoxysilane; silanes having an alkenyl group such as vinyl trimethoxysilane, allyl trimethoxysilane, isopropenyl trimethoxysilane; silanes having a mercapto group such as mercaptopropyl trimethoxysilane, mercaptoethyl trimethoxysilane; silanes having an aminoalkyl group such as 3-aminopropyl trimethoxysilane, 3- (2-aminoethyl) aminopropyl trimethoxysilane, N, N-dimethylaminopropyl trimethoxysilane, N, N-dimethylaminoethyl trimethoxysilane; silanes having a haloalkyl group such as 3-chloropropyl trimethoxysilane, trifluoropropyl trimethoxysilane; silanes having a glyceroxy group such as 3-glyceroxypropyl trimethoxysilane, di (3-glyceroxypropyl) dimethoxysilane; silanes having a ureido group such as 3-ureidopropyl trimethoxysilane, 3-ureidopropyl methyldimethoxysilane, 3-ureidopropyl dimethylmethoxysilane; silanes having a cyano group such as cyanopropyl trimethoxysilane, cyanopropyl methyldimethoxysilane, cyanopropyl dimethylmethoxysilane.

  Preferably, the compound of formula (IV) having a reactive organic group R is chosen from silanes having an epoxy group, silanes having a (meth) acryloxy group, silanes having an alkenyl group, silanes having a mercapto group, silanes having an aminoalkyl group.

  Examples of compounds (III) and (IV) preferred for the practice of this invention are tetraethoxysilane and methyltrimethoxysilane, respectively.

  As catalysts for hydrolysis and polymerization, basic catalysts such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydrogencarbonate, or amines (such as ammonia, trimethylamine, triethylamine, tetramethylammonium hydroxide) or acidic catalysts, selected from organic acids such as citric acid, acetic acid, methanesulfonic acid, p-toulene sulfonic acid, dodecylbenzene sulfonic acid, , dodecylsulfonic acid or minerals such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid. When present, the surfactant used is preferably a nonionic or anionic surfactant or a mixture of both. Sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate can be used as anionic surfactant. The end of the hydrolysis is marked by the disappearance of products (III) and (IV), insoluble in water, and obtaining a homogeneous liquid layer.

  The condensation step (b) may use the same catalyst as the hydrolysis step or another catalyst selected from those mentioned above.

  At the end of this process, a suspension in water of fine organosilicone particles is obtained which may optionally subsequently be separated from their medium. The method described above may therefore comprise an additional filtration step, for example on a membrane filter, of the product resulting from step (b), optionally followed by a centrifugation step of the filtrate intended to separate the particles. liquid medium, then a drying step of the particles. Other separation methods can of course be employed.

  The resulting particles (or spheres) preferably have an average diameter of from 0.05 to 10 μm.

  The shape of the hollow sphere portions obtained according to the method above, as well as their dimensions, will depend in particular on the method of contacting the products in step (b).

  A rather basic pH and a cold introduction of the polymerization catalyst into the mixture resulting from step (a) will lead to portions of hollow spheres in the form of "bowls" with a rounded bottom while a rather acid pH, and a dropwise introduction of the mixture from step (a) into the hot polymerization catalyst will result in hollow sphere portions having a horseshoe-shaped cross-section.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, portions of hollow spheres in the form of "bowls" are used. These can be obtained as described in the application JP-2003 128 788.

  Portions of horseshoe-shaped hollow spheres are also described in JP-A-2000-191789.

  The accompanying figure illustrates a concave particle of bowl-shaped sphere portions in cross-section.

  As is apparent from this figure, these concave portions are formed (in longitudinal section) of a small internal arc (11), a large external arc (21) and segments (31) which connect the ends of the respective arcs, the width (W1) between the two ends of the small internal arc (11) ranging from 0.01 to 8 μm, preferably from 0.02 to 6 μm on average, the width (W2) between the ends of the large external arc (21) ranging from 0.05 to 10 μm, preferably from 0.06 to 8 μm on average and the height (H) of the large outer arc (21) from 0.015 to 8 μm, preferably from 0.03 to 8 μm. 6 pm on average.

  The dimensions mentioned above are obtained by calculating the average of the dimensions of one hundred selected particles on an image obtained with a scanning electron microscope.

  As concave particles of portions of spheres that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the particles consisting of the cross-linked organosilicone TAK-110 (cross-linked methylsilanol / silicate polymer) from the company TAKEMOTO OIL & FAT, in the form of a bowl, width 2.5 μm, height 1.2 μm and thickness 150 nm (particles sold under the name NLK-506 by Takemoto Oil &Fat); the particles consisting of the crosslinked organosilicone TAK-110 (methylsilanol / silicate crosslinked polymer) from the company TAKEMOTO OIL & FAT, bowl-shaped, with a width of 2.5 μm, a height of 1.5 μm and a thickness of 350 nm ; the particles consisting of the crosslinked organosilicone TAK-110 (methylsilanol / silicate crosslinked polymer) from the company TAKEMOTO OIL & FAT, bowl-shaped, 0.7 μm wide, 0.35 μm high and 100 nm thick ; the particles consisting of crosslinked organosilicone TAK-110 (crosslinked methylsilanol / silicate polymer) from Takemoto CIL & FAT, bowl-shaped, 7.5 μm wide, 3.5 μm high and 200 nm thick .

  The concave particles, in particular the particles of portions of hollow spheres, may be present in the composition according to the invention, in particular in the compact powder, in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight.

  The composition according to the invention comprises at least one structuring agent.

  The term "structuring agent" means a compound capable of conferring on the composition its solid form.

  The structuring agent may be chosen from waxes, organogelators and polyamide resins.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. and up to 120 C.

  The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER.

  The waxes may be hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and / or silicone and may be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin. In particular, the waxes have a melting temperature greater than 25 C and better still greater than 45 C.

  As waxes that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of beeswax (optionally modified), carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber or sugar cane wax, ceresin, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, montan wax, ozokerites, hydrogenated jojoba oil, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, esters of fatty acids and glycerides concretes at 45 C, silicone waxes such as alkyl, alkoxy and / or poly (di) methylsiloxane esters solid at 45 C, having from 10 to 45 carbon atoms, certain fatty acids such as stearic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

  The structuring agent can be an organogelling agent. An organogelator is defined herein as comprising a non-polymeric organic compound whose molecules may be capable of establishing, among themselves, at least one physical interaction leading to an auto-aggregation of the molecules with formation of a three-dimensional macromolecular network, particularly in a liquid fatty phase. The network may result from the formation of a network of fibrils (due to the stacking or aggregation of organic gelation molecules). Depending on the nature of the organogelator, the interconnected fibrils vary in size from a few nanometers up to 1 dam or even several micrometers. These fibrils may occasionally combine to form ribbons or columns.

  Physical interactions are diverse but may exclude co-crystallization. These physical interactions are, for example, interactions chosen from among autocomplementary hydrogen interactions, 7c interactions between unsaturated nuclei, dipolar interactions, and coordination bonds with organometallic derivatives. The establishment of these interactions can often be favored by the architecture of the molecule, for example by nuclei, unsaturations, and the presence of asymmetric carbon. In general, each molecule of an organogelator can establish several types of physical interaction with a neighboring molecule. Thus, in one embodiment, the molecules of the organogelator according to the invention may comprise at least one group capable of establishing a hydrogen bond, for example at least two groups capable of establishing a hydrogen bond; at least one aromatic ring, for example at least two aromatic rings; at least one bond with ethylenic unsaturation; and / or at least one asymmetric carbon. The groups capable of forming a hydrogen bond may be selected, for example, from hydroxyl, carbonyl, amine, carboxylic acid, amide, benzyl, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups.

  The organogelators of the invention may be soluble in a liquid fatty phase at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. They can be solid or liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure.

  Organogens which can be used in the invention are, for example, those described in the document "Specialist Surfactants" edited by D. Robb, 1997, pp. 209-263, chapter 8, by P. Terech [12], and the documents FR-A-2 796 276 [13] and FR-A-2 811 552 [14]. Organogellators are described in particular in application WO-A-03/105788, the contents of which are incorporated in the description by way of reference.

  The structuring agent may be a polyamide resin, such as those described in application WO-A-02/056847 or US patent 5783657, the contents of which are incorporated in the present application by way of reference; a silicone polyamide resin such as those described in the application EP-A-1266647 and the French patent application filed under No. 0216039 whose content is incorporated by reference in the present description.

  As polyamide resin, those sold under the name "UNICLEAR" by the company ARIZONA may be used.

  The structuring agent, in particular the wax, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5 % to 20% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 15% by weight.

  The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one or more oils, especially chosen from volatile oils, non-volatile oils, and their mixture.

  By "oil" is meant any non-aqueous medium which is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), compatible with an application to the skin, the mucous membranes (lips) and / or the integuments (nails, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair).

  By volatile oil is meant any nonaqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips, in less than one hour, especially having a vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure ranging from 10 -3 to 300 mmHg (0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa).

  The composition may comprise one or more volatile oils.

  The oils may be hydrocarbon oils or silicone oils optionally comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups or at the end of the silicone chain.

  Hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

  Volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention include linear or cyclic silicones having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltri-siloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and their mixtures.

  As another volatile oil that may be used in the invention, C8-C16 isoparaffins such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR, PERMETHYL and especially isododecane (PERMETHYL 99 A).

  The volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight. weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight.

  The composition according to the invention may comprise a non-volatile oil.

  The expression "non-volatile oil" means an oil capable of remaining on the skin at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure for at least one hour and having in particular a vapor pressure at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure, which is not zero, less than at 0.01 mmHg (1.33 Pa).

  The non-volatile oil may be chosen from non-volatile silicone or hydrocarbon oils.

  Hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

  The nonvolatile oil may be selected from nonpolar nonpolar oils, polar nonvolatile oils, and mixtures thereof.

  The non-volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 20% to 80% by weight, and preferably ranging from 40% to 80% by weight.

  As non-volatile oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: non-volatile hydrocarbon oils such as liquid paraffin (or petroleum jelly), squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutylene (Parleam oil), perhydrosqualene, oil mink, turtle, soya, sweet almond oil, calophyllum, palm, grape seed, sesame, corn, arara, rapeseed, sunflower, cotton, apricot castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal sprouts; esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid; fatty esters, especially C12-C36, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, palmitate 2-ethyl-hexyl, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, myristate or 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate, di (2-ethyl hexyl) succinate, malate diisostearyl, glycerol triisostearate or diglycerine; oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; higher fatty alcohols, especially C16-C22, such as cetanol, oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyl dodecanol; and their mixtures.

  non-volatile silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) which are nonvolatile; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxanes; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids (especially C 8 -C 20), fatty alcohols (especially C 8 -C 20) or polyoxyalkylenes (especially polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene); amino silicones; silicones containing a hydroxyl group; fluorinated silicones comprising a fluorinated group during or at the end of the silicone chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, all or part of the hydrogen of which are substituted by fluorine atoms; and mixtures thereof The oil (volatile, non-volatile) may be present in a total content ranging from 20% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 40% to 80% by weight .

  The gums are generally high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or cellulose gums or polysaccharides and the pasty substances are generally hydrocarbon compounds such as lanolines and their derivatives or else PDMSs.

  The composition according to the invention may also comprise a dyestuff, in particular a pulverulent dyestuff, especially chosen from pigments, nacres and flakes.

  By pigments, it is necessary to include particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition.

  By nacres, it is necessary to understand particles of any iridescent form, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized.

  The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. Among the inorganic pigments, titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxides, and oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, the violet of manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder.

  Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on carmine, barium, strontium, calcium and aluminum.

  The pearlescent pigments can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxides, titanium mica coated with, for example ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

  The dyestuffs, in particular the pulverulent dyestuffs, may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 15% in weight.

  The composition according to the invention may also comprise additional charges, different from the hollow sphere portion particles made of organosilicon material described above.

  By fillers, it is necessary to include particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

  The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (nylon), poly (alanine and polyethylene) powders, tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) polymer powders, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers , hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

  The additional fillers may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight.

  The composition may contain other usual cosmetic ingredients which may be chosen in particular from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, pasty fatty substances, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds, cosmetic actives.

  Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition considered.

  The composition according to the invention may be an anhydrous composition, that is to say a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, in particular free of water, water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.

  The stick-shaped composition is generally obtained by mixing the waxes, a portion of the oils and the other fatty substances at a temperature ranging from 80 to 110 C. The pigments, as well as the fillers and the organosilicone particles are then added and the mixture thus obtained is poured into a mold and then cooled to be demolded.

  The invention is further illustrated by the examples described below.

Example 1

  A lipstick stick having the following composition was prepared: polyethylene wax (Polywax 500 from Bareco) 10 g Ozokerite 5 g 2-Octyl dodecanol 30 g capric / caprylic acid triglyceride 30 g (Myritol 318) Cognis company) Phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane 10g (DC556 from Dow Corning) Pigments 5 g Bow-shaped hemispherical particles of width 10 g average 2.5 μm, thickness 0.2 μm and height 1.2 μm, made up organosilicone TAK-110 (crosslinked methylsilanol / silicate polymer) from Takemoto Oil & Fat (particles sold under the name NLK-506 by Takemoto Oil & Fat). The pigments are ground in the presence of a portion of the oils. . The remaining oils are mixed with the waxes and heated to about 90 ° C; after homogenization, the ground pigments are added. The organosilicone particles are then added.

  The mixture is then poured into molds and after solidification, the sticks are demolded and packaged in a holster.

  The stick slides well on the lips and provides after application a shiny lipstick film.

Example 2

  A lipstick stick having the following composition was prepared: Polyethylene wax (Polywax 500 from Bareco) 10 g Octyldodecyl neopentanoate 37 g Hydrogenated polybutene 20 g (Parleam from NOF Corporation) Phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane 15 g Pigments 5 g Nacres 3 g Hemispherical bowl-shaped particles of width 10 g average 2.5 μm, thickness 0.2 μm and height 1.2 μm, made of organosilicone TAK-110 (methylsilanol / crosslinked polymer) silicate) from Takemoto Oil & Fat (particles sold under the name NLK-506 by Takemoto Oil & Fat). The pigments are ground in the presence of a portion of the oils. The remaining oils are mixed with the waxes and heated to about 90 ° C; after homogenization, the ground pigments and the pearlescent agents are added. The organosilicone particles are then added. The mixture is then poured into molds and after solidification, the sticks are demolded and packaged in a holster.

  The stick slides well on the lips, has a creamy texture and provides after application a shiny lipstick film.

Claims (48)

  1. Cosmetic composition in the form of a stick comprising at least one structuring agent and concave particles, especially in the form of portions of hollow spheres.   2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said spheres having a mean diameter of between 0.05 and 10 pm.   3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the particles of 10 portions of hollow spheres have a cross-section in the form of horseshoe or arch.   4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the particles in the form of portions of hollow spheres consist of an organosilicone material.   5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organosilicon material is a crosslinked polysiloxane of three-dimensional structure comprising or consisting of units of formula (I): SiO2 and of formula (II): R1 SiO1,5 in which R1 denotes an organic group having a carbon atom directly attached to the silicon atom.   6. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the organic group is a reactive organic group, a nonreactive organic group, and preferably a nonreactive organic group.   7. Composition according to Claim 6, characterized in that the non-reactive organic group may be a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, or a phenyl group.   8. Composition according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that the non-reactive organic group is a methyl group.   9. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the reactive organic group is selected from an epoxy group, a (meth) acryloxy group, an alkenyl group, a mercaptoalkyl group, aminoalkyl, haloalkyl, a glyceroxy group, a ureido group , a cyano group.   10. Composition according to claim 6 or 9, characterized in that the reactive organic group is selected from an epoxy group, a (meth) acryloxy group, an alkenyl group, a mercaptoalkyl group, aminoalkyl.   11. Composition according to Claim 5, characterized in that R1 denotes a methyl group.   12. Composition according to any one of Claims 4 to 11, characterized in that the organosilicone material comprises the units (I) and (II) in a molar ratio of unit (I) / unit (II) ranging from 30 / 70 to 50/50, preferably from 35/65 to 45/55.   13. Composition according to any one of claims 4 to 12, characterized in that the organosilicone particles are capable of being obtained by a process comprising: (a) introduction into an aqueous medium, in the presence at least one hydrolysis catalyst, and optionally at least one surfactant, a compound (III) of formula SiX4 and a compound (IV) of formula RSiY3, where X and Y independently designate one on the other side a C1-C4 alkoxy group, an alkoxyethoxy group containing a C1-C4 alkoxy group, a C2-C4 acyloxy group, an N, N-dialkylamino group containing a C1-C4 alkyl group, a hydroxyl group, a halogen atom or a hydrogen atom, and R denotes an organic group having a carbon atom directly connected to the silicon atom; and (b) contacting the mixture resulting from step (a) with an aqueous solution containing at least one polymerization catalyst and optionally at least one surfactant, at a temperature between 30 and 85 C, for at least two hours.   14. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that in step (a), the molar ratio of the compound (III) to the compound (IV) ranges from 30/70 to 50/50, preferably from 35 to 50/50. / 65 to 45/45, and preferentially is 40/60.   15. Composition according to claim 13 or 14, characterized in that the ratio by weight of water to the total of compounds (III) and (IV) ranges from 10/90 to 70/30 in step (a). .   16. Composition according to claim 13, characterized in that the organic group is a reactive organic group, a non-reactive organic group, and preferably a nonreactive organic group.   17. Composition according to Claim 13, characterized in that the non-reactive organic group may be a C1-C4 alkyl group, or a phenyl group.   18. Composition according to claim 13 or 17, characterized in that the non-reactive organic group is a methyl group.   19. A composition according to claim 16, characterized in that the reactive organic group is chosen from an epoxy group, a (meth) acryloxy group, an alkenyl group, a mercaptoalkyl group, aminoalkyl, haloalkyl, a glyceroxy group, a ureido group. , a cyano group.   20. A composition according to claim 16 or 19, characterized in that the reactive organic group is selected from an epoxy group, a (meth) acryloxy group, an alkenyl group, a mercaptoalkyl group, aminoalkyl.   21. Composition according to Claim 13, characterized in that R1 denotes a methyl group.   22. A composition according to any one of claims 13 to 21, characterized in that the hydrolysis and polymerization catalysts are independently selected from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydrogencarbonate, ammonia, trimethylamine, triethylamine, tetramethylammonium hydroxide, citric acid, acetic acid, methanesulfonic acid, p-toluene sulfonic acid, dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid, dodecylsulfonic acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid.   23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concave particles are formed (in longitudinal section) of a small inner arc (11), a large external arc (21) and segments (31) which connect the ends of the respective arcs, the width (W1) between the two ends of the small inner arc (11) ranging from 0.01 to 8 μm, preferably from 0.02 to 6 μm on average, the width (W2) between the ends of the large external arc (21) ranging from 0.05 to 10 μm, preferably from 0.06 to 8 μm on average and the height (H) of the large external arc (21) ranging from 0.015 to 8 μm, preferably 0.03 to 6 μm on average.   24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concave particles are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight.   25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the structuring agent is chosen from waxes, organogelators and polyamide resins.   26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the structuring agent is a wax chosen from beeswax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork or sugar cane, ceresin, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, Montan wax, ozokerites, hydrogenated jojoba oil, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by synthesis of FischerTropsch, fatty acid esters and glycerides concretes at 45 C, silicone waxes, stearic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.   27. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the structuring agent, in particular the wax, is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 15% by weight.   28. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an oil.   29. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a volatile oil.   30. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises a volatile oil selected from octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane.   31. Composition according to Claim 29 or 30, characterized in that the volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from , 1% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight.   32. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a non-volatile oil.   33. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the non-volatile oil is chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, non-volatile silicone oils.   34. A composition according to claim 32 or 33, characterized in that the non-volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 20% at 80% by weight, and preferably ranging from 40% to 80% by weight.   35. Composition according to any one of claims 28 to 34, characterized in that the oil is present in a total content ranging from 20% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 40% to 80% by weight.   36. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a dyestuff.   37. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the coloring material is chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents, flakes.   38. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the pigments are chosen from titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxides, iron oxides, chromium oxide. , manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, aluminum powder, copper powder, carbon black, D & C pigments, lacquers.   39. Composition according to any one of claims 36 to 38, characterized in that the dyestuff is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 15% by weight.   40. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one additional filler.   41. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the additional filler is chosen from talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders, poly-Palanine powders, polyethylene powders, powders. polyurethane, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres, silicone resin microspheres, elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.   42. A composition according to claim 40 or 41, characterized in that the additional charges are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0, 1% to 10% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight.   43. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a cosmetic ingredient chosen from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, pasty fatty substances, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds, cosmetic active ingredients.   44. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is anhydrous.   45. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is a make-up or skin-care or lip-care composition.   46. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a lipstick, a foundation, an eyeshadow, a blusher, a concealer, a lip care product. , a skin care product, a sunscreen product.   47. Lipstick stick according to any one of claims 1 to 46.   48. Cosmetic makeup or non-therapeutic skin or lip treatment method comprising applying to the skin or the lips a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.