FR2802412A1 - Cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion creams containing aqueous placentary extract for the treatment of heat-sensitive skin - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic cream for sensitive skins containing aqueous placentary extract is new. The cream is formulated as an oil-in-water emulsion, the aqueous phase being 60 - 80% by weight. The aqueous phase contains 0.1 - 1% Seporga aqueous placentary extract, 0.1 - 1% sapogenins, 0.3 - 3% stereoisic sapogenins, and 0.1 - 0.5% duo-usnate (a plant-based fungistat and bacteriostat). The oily phase contains 0.1 - 10%Meritol 318 (RTM; a caprylic acid/capric acid triglyceride), 0.3 - 3% Emulgin B1 (RTM; cetenyl-stearyl alcohol with about 12 moles ethylene oxide), and 1.5 - 15% Cutina-CP (RTM; mainly cetyl palmitate). In addition the compositions contain 0.3 - 3% Italian lemon essence, 0.5 - 5% of Herbasol - extract Arnica, an aromatic anti-hemostatic preserving agent, 0.1 - 0.5% dodecyl gallate preserving agent, and 2.6% - 26% Orange Soleil W200. The cream is prepared by mixing the two phases separately and heating them to 80 - 90 deg C, stirring the aqueous phase and adding the oily phase to it slowly. The mixture is stirred whilst the temperature falls to 40 - 45 deg C. Perfume and color are added over 5 minutes at pH 7 +/- 0.5.

Description

The present invention relates to a moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging cosmetic cream and its method of manufacture for the care of the face and hands, intended for persons sensitive to heat sources by infrared radiation. All components of this cream are patented components. The surface qualities which are concerned by this cream are <B>: </ B> the dry skins and masts (the skin does not shine), having the gravelly aspect (crater); skin irritated by infrared (reddish skin); old skin (wrinkles).

the functions of the active ingredients make this cream, a moisturizing and protective cream providing suppleness to the skin; anti-aging cream by improving micro-circulation; protective anti-inflammatory cream of heat sources of infrared origins.

The persons concerned are persons with facial and hand skin and other body parts (arms) exposed to medium and high temperature heat sources (baking oven, blast furnaces, heaters, laundry detergents). hand in hot water, people of the medical profession having very sensitive skin to the disinfectant, etc ...).

The innovation in this cream lies in the active ingredients used and gathered together in number of three. A tonic of hyaluronic acid, a tonic of collagen, a tonic of A D N. Fruit acids, vitamin A acid, vitamins C and E, carotenoids and selenium.

 Heat is synonymous with dehydration. If the source of heat is of an infra - red origin, there is vasodilatation, resulting in excessive blood supply and may cause erythema (redness of the skin). This corresponds to a first degree burn.

 The treatment method of such skin cases and the use of a vasoconstrictor (astringent) and the use of fruit acid including plant acids which cause desquamation and removal of dead cells on the superficial layer of the epidermis. They increase cell turnover, so the thickness of the epidermis. They also have a moisturizing effect and regenerate the elastin and strengthen the collagen.

 The aqueous phase for the emulsion is water treated by distillation.

 The fatty phase characterized by three fatty acids a, b, c, makes it a fatty phase of particularly excellent quality a) MERITOL 318 which is a triglyceride composition of caprylic / capric acid, is a neutral, clear, odorless, almost pure oil. colorless and low viscosity.

 MERITOL <B> 318 </ B> is a triglyceride of saturated vegetable fatty acids of first choice which is particularly suitable for oily bodies of this type. Due to its chemical composition and neutral character, it is a very dermatophilic oily component. Its density varies from 0.945 to 0.949 g / em; at 20 <B> 0 </ B> C. b) EUMULGIN 0 B1 which is a stearilic cetylenic alcohol with about 12 moles of EO. Its properties make it a non-ionic emulsifier for very finely dispersed emulsions. It is especially suitable for substances difficult to emulsify or those which are not suitable for emulsification.

 Its emulsifying power is used in low viscosity and consistent cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations of the O / W type which are preferably used for liquid to semi-liquid emulsions. Its density varies from 0.969 to 0.972 at 70 ° C. (c) CUTINA - CP, which is an ester of fatty alcohols with long saturated chains and of fatty acids, in particular ketylester of palmitic acids (cetyl palmitate). Its density varies from 0.817 to 0.820.

 As a consistency factor, CUTINA - CP is suitable for cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations in the form of emulsions such as creams, ointments, oily make - up products and stick - shaped preparations.

 The overall active ingredient characterized by three active ingredients A, B and B ', C, combines the primary qualities, secondary and tertiary qualities in this cream.

 A) PLACENTAL EXTRACT ACQUEUX SEPORGA is an asset based on human placentas. It undergoes a treatment allowing the initiation and the complete liberation of the soluble active principles (biostimulins). Characterized by its content of easily assimilable physiologically active principles, this active ingredient provides cutaneous cells with the basic elements necessary for skin hydration, cellular regeneration and tissue rejuvenation.

 This product has a clear yellow liquid appearance with a slightly characteristic odor, PH 5 to 6. The biological properties of SEBORGA ACQUEUX PLACENTARY EXTRACT are related to its concentration of active ingredients such as Filatov biostimulines, the synergistic groups of amino acids constituting the α and β3 factoproteins, nucleic acids, mineral salts and trace elements such as Na, K, Mg, Si.

 Its application is in many types of cosmetological or pharmaceutical preparations: skin care products (anti-wrinkles, etc.), skin protection products (after sun ...), nourishing products and moisturizers (presence of hygroscopic amino acids), hair products by stimulating micro - circulation of the scalp (hair loss). These qualities make it a good anti-inflammatory and a good anti-aging while having a good moisturizing power.

 B) Bacteriostatic SAPAVENIC TRITERPENIC SAPONIC DRUGS (pentacyclic triterpenes). It has antimicrobial and antifungal activity (ivy Henderagenine) and anti-inflammatory activity as well as anti-oedematous activity (Brown of India <B>: </ B> escine; Licorice <B>: </ B> acid glycerihétinique). B ') Entering the category of the second active ingredient has also been used SAPOGENINES STEROIDIC which is an anti-inflammatory, a peripheral vasoconstrictor used in phlebology (Small Holly <B>: </ B> Ruscogenic, Diuretic, Asparagus, Sarsaparilla ). C) An anti-emostatic. HERBASOL - EXTRACT ARNICA. is a very good anti-inflammatory. It is a plant extract in a glycol / water solvent. Its PH value ranges from 5.5 to 6.6. Its dosage ranges from about 0.1% to about 5%.

 The three important criteria of a cream are usually its active ingredients, its color and its smell. The use of adjuvants is therefore necessary for the aromatization, coloring and preservation of E. Thus, the choice of an aromatic herb is characterized by the use of LEMON ESSENCE ITALY. mobile liquid, clear and slightly cloudy, light yellow to greenish yellow with a density ranging from 0.849 to 0.858 at 20 C.

 LEMON ESSENCE ITALY is an essential oil extracted by cold expression of the outer part of the pericardium of the fruit of lemon (citrus limon, L.) grown in Sicily. Its use is in: Aromatization, Perfumery and cosmetics (external use only), Concentrated product for industrial use.

 Undenatured plant extract, obtained by a special process, this liquid extract is stable facilitates its use in cosmetics. The cold extraction ensures the conservation of the aromatic properties. The starting product and the Arnica flower (Flos Arnica). In the drug we can report polyphenols (flavoids, caffeic acid, chlorogenic) and many terpene alcohols. The general use of the plant is involved in Spasmophilia, as a nervous sedative, cholagogue (polyphenolic acids). Usable for its properties, Arnica is especially popular as an anti-ecchymotic. The use of an antioxidant as a preservative E is characterized by DODECYL GALLATE C19 H3o <B> 05. </ B> Of crystalline powder appearance cream white color is slightly soluble in water. It is an antioxidant used in cosmetics and pharmacy. The concentration varies between 0.1 and 0.4 per thousand.

La compatibilité avec la peau est très bonne. Le dosage varit d' environ 0,1 % à environ 0,5 % du poids total de la masse.The cream contains a bacteriostatic fungistatic characterized by DUO - USNATE being a natural herbal bactericide and fungicide which makes it a highly concentrated non - aqueous plant extract with bactericidal, fungicidal and anti - yeast action derived from alpine mosses. (Usnea barbata-). The content of active ingredient is 120 standardized at 7.5% (+) usnates. It is therefore a solvent with 1,2 propylene glycol (USP) name. Applications of this pure vegetable bactericide are suitable for deodorants, foot care products, mouth hygiene products, creams and special lotions. DUO USNATE can also be used as a preservative component. Fig. 1: 1,2 propylene glycol (USP) developed formula of usnic acid

The compatibility with the skin is very good. The dosage ranges from about 0.1% to about 0.5% of the total weight of the mass.

Sa teneur en matière colorante pure est d' environ 70 % et son PH est compris entre 8 et 10. II à une bonne solidité aux acides et reste solide à la lumière.A coloring agent P has been used for this cream and participates harmoniously in the finishing thereof. It is characterized by a SUN ORANGE W 200 (15985) FD & C YELLOW n 6. fig. 2: chemical formula

Its content of pure dyestuff is about 70% and its pH is between 8 and 10. It has good acid fastness and remains solid in the light.

 Its solidity to light is average. The dye concentration ranges from about 2.6% to about 26%.

Claims (10)

CLAIMS All percentages are based on total weight. 1) Formulation of the emulsion containing distilled H2O whose QSP varies from 60% to 80% and whose concentration is 52%, giving a water mass of greater than 1/2. A fat phase combining MERITOL 318, EMULGIN B1 and CUTINA -CP, the respective concentrations of which are approximately: from 0.1% to 10%, from 0.3% to 3%, from 1.5% to 15%. 2) Formulation of the active ingredients containing PLACENTAL EXTRACT ACQUEUX - EPA40, SAPOGENINS and SAPOGENINES STEROISIQUES, DUO-USNATE, whose respective concentrations are approximately <B>: </ B> of 0.1% at 1%, from 0.1% to 1% and from 0.3% to 3%, from <B> 0.1% to 0.5%. 3) Aromatization by the use of LEMON ESSENCE ITALY whose concentration varies from about 0.3% to about 3% of the weight of the total mass. 4) An aromatic preservative with an anti-emostatic agent, the concentration of which varies from about 0.5% to about 5% of the weight of the total mass. 5) An antioxidant, DODECYL GALLATE (CI 9 H30O Os) which is a preservative for pharmaceuticals whose concentration ranges from about 0.1% to about 0.5%; the weight of the total mass. 6) ORANGE SOLEIL W 200 dye, the concentration of which varies from about 2.6% to about 26% of the total weight of the mass. 7) The manufacturing process which combines three agents for the fat phase by pooling Meritol 318 with Cutina and Eumulgin B1 and hot mixing at a temperature of 80 C for a period of 45 minutes. 8) The method of manufacturing the hot O / W type emulsion. After having weighed and prepared the fatty phase and the aqueous phase, they are taken separately at a temperature of 80-90 ° C. The aqueous phase is stirred for a few seconds and then the fatty phase is slowly incorporated. Stirring is continued until the temperature is 40-45 ° C. and the emulsion is then smoothed at high speed for 3 to 5 minutes. (see 10). 9) The method of introduction by agitation "variant" of the active ingredients, perfume and dye for 5 to 10 minutes. The verification of the PH value must be equal to 7 0.5. The cream can be packaged in still fluid product (30 to 40 C), in cosmetic packaging. 10) The exact manufacturing process of the emulsion and characterized by two steps. Firstly, the aqueous phase and the products of the fatty phase are separately brought to a temperature of 80-90 ° C. The first step consists in introducing Méritol into the aqueous phase and obtaining a first emulsion. On the other hand, Cutina CP is mixed with Eumulgin Bl to obtain a well homogeneous fatty phase. The second step is to introduce the mixture CUTINA with EUMULGIN in the first emulsion (pure water + Meritol) gradually under stirring in order to obtain the final emulsion.