EP2503914B1 - Decorative article with invisible setting - Google Patents
Decorative article with invisible setting Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP2503914B1 EP2503914B1 EP10776674.3A EP10776674A EP2503914B1 EP 2503914 B1 EP2503914 B1 EP 2503914B1 EP 10776674 A EP10776674 A EP 10776674A EP 2503914 B1 EP2503914 B1 EP 2503914B1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- stones
- single base
- layer
- groove
- electrically conductive
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Active
Links
- 239000004575 stone Substances 0.000 claims description 146
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 claims description 86
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 33
- BQCADISMDOOEFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silver Chemical compound [Ag] BQCADISMDOOEFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 15
- 238000000151 deposition Methods 0.000 claims description 14
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims description 13
- 229910052709 silver Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000004332 silver Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000005530 etching Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000012530 fluid Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000003647 oxidation Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000011241 protective layer Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000005494 tarnishing Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000005507 spraying Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000004070 electrodeposition Methods 0.000 claims 1
- 238000005034 decoration Methods 0.000 description 29
- 230000008021 deposition Effects 0.000 description 12
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 11
- 238000009713 electroplating Methods 0.000 description 8
- YSSSPARMOAYJTE-UHFFFAOYSA-N dibenzo-18-crown-6 Chemical compound O1CCOCCOC2=CC=CC=C2OCCOCCOC2=CC=CC=C21 YSSSPARMOAYJTE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 238000006748 scratching Methods 0.000 description 6
- 230000002393 scratching effect Effects 0.000 description 6
- 239000010437 gem Substances 0.000 description 5
- 238000002788 crimping Methods 0.000 description 4
- 230000035784 germination Effects 0.000 description 4
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 description 4
- 239000000956 alloy Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229910045601 alloy Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 238000005336 cracking Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000009826 distribution Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000005304 joining Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000002966 varnish Substances 0.000 description 3
- FGUUSXIOTUKUDN-IBGZPJMESA-N C1(=CC=CC=C1)N1C2=C(NC([C@H](C1)NC=1OC(=NN=1)C1=CC=CC=C1)=O)C=CC=C2 Chemical compound C1(=CC=CC=C1)N1C2=C(NC([C@H](C1)NC=1OC(=NN=1)C1=CC=CC=C1)=O)C=CC=C2 FGUUSXIOTUKUDN-IBGZPJMESA-N 0.000 description 2
- PXHVJJICTQNCMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N Nickel Chemical compound [Ni] PXHVJJICTQNCMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- KDLHZDBZIXYQEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N Palladium Chemical compound [Pd] KDLHZDBZIXYQEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titanium Chemical compound [Ti] RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000004026 adhesive bonding Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000002969 artificial stone Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000008901 benefit Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000012467 final product Substances 0.000 description 2
- -1 for example Chemical compound 0.000 description 2
- 239000003292 glue Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000003754 machining Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000008018 melting Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000002844 melting Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000005240 physical vapour deposition Methods 0.000 description 2
- BASFCYQUMIYNBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N platinum Chemical compound [Pt] BASFCYQUMIYNBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000005498 polishing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000011084 recovery Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229910052719 titanium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 239000010936 titanium Substances 0.000 description 2
- GNFTZDOKVXKIBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-(2-methoxyethoxy)benzohydrazide Chemical compound COCCOC1=CC=CC(C(=O)NN)=C1 GNFTZDOKVXKIBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- VYZAMTAEIAYCRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Chromium Chemical compound [Cr] VYZAMTAEIAYCRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- RYGMFSIKBFXOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N Copper Chemical compound [Cu] RYGMFSIKBFXOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920001651 Cyanoacrylate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- MWCLLHOVUTZFKS-UHFFFAOYSA-N Methyl cyanoacrylate Chemical compound COC(=O)C(=C)C#N MWCLLHOVUTZFKS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004743 Polypropylene Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052581 Si3N4 Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- ATJFFYVFTNAWJD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Tin Chemical compound [Sn] ATJFFYVFTNAWJD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- HCHKCACWOHOZIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Zinc Chemical compound [Zn] HCHKCACWOHOZIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QCWXUUIWCKQGHC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Zirconium Chemical compound [Zr] QCWXUUIWCKQGHC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000853 adhesive Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001070 adhesive effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910052782 aluminium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- XAGFODPZIPBFFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N aluminium Chemical compound [Al] XAGFODPZIPBFFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005266 casting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910052804 chromium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011651 chromium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000000078 claw Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 229910052802 copper Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000010949 copper Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000012777 electrically insulating material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011521 glass Substances 0.000 description 1
- PCHJSUWPFVWCPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N gold Chemical compound [Au] PCHJSUWPFVWCPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052737 gold Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000010931 gold Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003993 interaction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910052741 iridium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- GKOZUEZYRPOHIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N iridium atom Chemical compound [Ir] GKOZUEZYRPOHIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000010297 mechanical methods and process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000001465 metallisation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003801 milling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910052759 nickel Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 150000004767 nitrides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052763 palladium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 230000002093 peripheral effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910052697 platinum Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229920001155 polypropylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000004080 punching Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008439 repair process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910052710 silicon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000010703 silicon Substances 0.000 description 1
- HQVNEWCFYHHQES-UHFFFAOYSA-N silicon nitride Chemical compound N12[Si]34N5[Si]62N3[Si]51N64 HQVNEWCFYHHQES-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000009718 spray deposition Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910052725 zinc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011701 zinc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052726 zirconium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
Images
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C17/00—Gems or the like
- A44C17/005—Gems provided with grooves or notches, e.g. for setting
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C17/00—Gems or the like
- A44C17/02—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C17/00—Gems or the like
- A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
- C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
- C25D5/00—Electroplating characterised by the process; Pretreatment or after-treatment of workpieces
- C25D5/627—Electroplating characterised by the visual appearance of the layers, e.g. colour, brightness or mat appearance
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
- C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
- C25D7/00—Electroplating characterised by the article coated
- C25D7/005—Jewels; Clockworks; Coins
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
- Y10T428/12—All metal or with adjacent metals
- Y10T428/12389—All metal or with adjacent metals having variation in thickness
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
- Y10T428/12—All metal or with adjacent metals
- Y10T428/12493—Composite; i.e., plural, adjacent, spatially distinct metal components [e.g., layers, joint, etc.]
- Y10T428/12535—Composite; i.e., plural, adjacent, spatially distinct metal components [e.g., layers, joint, etc.] with additional, spatially distinct nonmetal component
Definitions
- the invention relates to a piece of invisible set decoration and, more specifically, a decorative piece including a jewelery or jewelery item forming a paved stone suitable for decorating a surface.
- the document US 6,112,552A discloses a decoration piece comprising a plurality of stones and a device for fixing the stones relative to one another in which the fixing device comprises a single base making it possible to fasten all the stones relative to one another and the laminates of stones are mounted edge to edge with each other so that the single base is masked.
- the purpose of the present invention is to overcome all or part of the disadvantages mentioned above by proposing an industrial manufacturing process for obtaining a homogeneous assembly of stones, a shape diversity, improved accuracy and better quality fixation at lower cost.
- the invention relates to a decoration piece comprising a plurality of stones and a device for fixing the stones relative to one another in which the fixing device comprises a single electroplated base of a shape corresponding to a part said stones making it possible to fasten all the stones without constraint with respect to each other, in that the single base comprises at least one electrically conductive layer deposited on the stones, and in that the stone layers are mounted side by side on the to each other so that said single base is masked.
- the base is formed as a function of the dispersions of the stones due to the sizes, which makes it possible to avoid generating internal stresses in the stones.
- the base because it is electro-deposited, adapts directly to the shapes of the stones.
- the invention also relates to an article of jewelry or a jewelery and a timepiece characterized in that they include, reported, a decorative piece according to one of the previous variants.
- the invention relates to generally annotated decoration pieces 1, 3 and 5 which can be reported, in particular, on jewelery or jewelery articles and timepieces (especially at the level of the dial and the dressing).
- these decorative pieces 1, 3, 5 can not be limited to the above applications.
- the decorative pieces 1, 3, 5 could also be reported on other objects such as, for example, glasses.
- the invention relates to an attachment device 7, 7 ', 47, 47' of the invisible crimped type for attaching several precious, semi-precious or synthetic stones 2 by their yoke 4 or by their crown 18 of so that the layers 6 of the stones 2 (also called rondistes) are mounted edge to edge so that the tables 8 of the stones 2 are substantially coplanar.
- the fixing device 7, 7 ', 47, 47' comprises a single base 9, 9 ', 49, 49' attaching the stones 2 to each other very precisely.
- the material of the base 9, 9 ', 49, 49' is made as and as and not removed and then deformed as and when .
- the base 9, 9 ', 49, 49' is natively corresponding in shape to the yokes 4 or to the rings 18 of the stones 2 whatever the dispersions thereof. This is made possible by the use of a manufacturing method 21 according to the invention which will be explained hereinafter and which comprises in particular a step 29 of electroplating.
- the single base 9, 9 ' has at least two layers 11, 11' and 13, 13 '.
- the respective thicknesses of the layers 11, 11 'and 13, 13' are not on the same scale for better understanding. Indeed, the first layer 11, 11 'is actually much weaker than the thickness shown in FIGS. figures 5 , 7, 8, 9 and very small compared to the thickness of the second layer 13, 13 '.
- the first layer 11, 11 ' is intended to adhere to the yokes 4 of the stones 2 but also to provide an electrically conductive layer capable of serving as a germination surface for the second layer 13, 13' which will be electrodeposited. If the first layer 11, 11 'has a preponderant role compared to the final aesthetic of the decorative part 1, 3, 5, the second layer 13, 13' is, it, mainly used for its mechanical characteristics, c ' that is to say, aims to improve the strength of the decoration piece 1, 3, 5.
- the first layer 11, 11 ' comprises a high reflection material to be used as a reflection layer of ambient light. It is understood that such a layer 11, 11 'thus makes it possible not to reduce too much the brightness of the decoration piece 1, 3, 5.
- the first layer 11, 11 ' may comprise gold and / or silver and / or platinum and / or palladium and / or iridium and / or copper and / or titanium and / or aluminum and / or nickel and / or tin and / or zinc.
- the second layer 13, 13 ' which is, as explained above, much thicker than the first layer 11, 11', can take from the latter the same materials or their alloys.
- a protective layer such as, for example, nitride of silicon to a thickness of a few microns, will be used in recovery to avoid tarnishing due to the oxidation of silver.
- the fixing device 7 comprises a single base 9, the two layers 11, 13 of which cover all the yokes 4 of the stones 2.
- This first variant allows a maximum brightness and / or a very homogeneous aesthetic of the decoration part 1, 3 , 5.
- the fixing device 7 ' has a single base 9' whose two layers 11 ', 13' do not cover all the yokes 4 of the stones 2.
- the single base 9 'thus forms a mesh which follows the leaflet 6 of the stones 2.
- This second variant improves the total internal reflection of the stones 2 used for the decoration part 1, 3, 5. It also makes it possible to not having to open the single base 9 'by mechanical means, for example, using a crimping tool, and thus to avoid scratching the stones 2.
- the single base 49, 49 'thus comprises at least two layers 51, 51' and 53, 53 '.
- the respective thicknesses of the layers 51, 51 'and 53, 53' are not on the same scale either.
- the first layer 51, 51 ' is intended to adhere on the rings 18 and, possibly, on the tables 8 of the stones 2 but also to provide an electrically conductive layer capable of serving as a germination surface for the second layer 53, 53' which will be electrodeposited. If the first layer 51, 51 'has a preponderant role compared to the final aesthetic of the decorative part 1, 3, 5, the second layer 53, 53' is, it, mainly used for its mechanical characteristics, c ' that is to say, aims to improve the strength of the decoration piece 1, 3, 5.
- the first layer 51, 51 ' comprises a high reflection material to be used as a reflection layer of the ambient light so as not to reduce the
- the layers 51, 51 'and 53, 53 may include materials of the same type as those of layers 11, 11 'and 13, 13' respectively.
- a protective layer such as silicon nitride to a thickness of a few microns, will be used in recovery to avoid tarnishing due to oxidation of money.
- the fixing device 47 comprises a single base 49, the two layers 51, 53 of which cover all the crowns 18 and the tables 8 of the stones 2.
- This first variant allows a maximum brightness and / or a very homogeneous appearance of the piece of decoration 1, 3, 5.
- the fixing device 47 ' comprises a single base 49' whose two layers 51 ', 53' cover all the crowns 18 but not the tables 8 of the stones 2.
- the single base 49 'thus forms a mesh which follows the leaflet 6 of the stones 2.
- This second variant makes it possible to improve the total internal reflection of the stones 2 used for the decoration part 1, 3, 5. It also makes it possible to not having to open the single base 49 'by mechanical means, for example, with the aid of a crimping tool, and thus to avoid scratching the stones 2.
- the base 49' may alternatively cover only a part of the rings 18 or all of the rings 18 and a part of the tables 8 of the stones 2 without departing from the scope of the invention.
- the decorative part 1, 3, 5 thus formed according to one of the embodiments even in more or less complex forms, such as, for example, example, a waveform 3 illustrated in FIG. figure 11 , a form 5 without particular symmetry illustrated in the figure 12 or a completely symmetrical form 1 illustrated in FIG. figure 10 , can, therefore, be easily reported on a final product via its single base 9, 9 ', 49, 49'.
- each of the stones 2 comprises at least one groove 10, 50 respectively at the yokes 4 and at the crowns 18 Since the base 9, 9 ', 49, 49' corresponds perfectly to the shape of the yoke 4 or the crown 18 of the stones 2, it is understood that the base 9, 9 ', 49, 49' then forms hooks which hold each stone 2 more firmly by its yoke 4 or its crown 18.
- each stone 2 comprises two grooves 10, 50 on two opposite facets of its yoke 4 or of its crown 18.
- each groove 10, 50 may also, forming a peripheral groove on each yoke 4 or each ring 18 to maximize the mechanical fastening force of the fastener 7, 7 ', 47, 47'.
- the single base 9, 9 ', 49, 49' can also directly form the body of the final product which avoids having to bring the decoration piece 1, 3, 5 onto another body.
- the method 21 consists in providing stones 2 whose laminates 6 allow them to be mounted edge to edge, for example to obtain the variants of embodiments of the figures 10 , 11 and 12 , that is to say, a homogeneous plan of stones 2.
- the stones 2 are secured one after the other on a support 12, 52.
- the method 21 comprising an electroplating step 29, the support 12, 52 comprises an electrically insulating material such as polypropylene or any other material compatible with the method 21.
- each stone 2 is secured to the face 15 of the support 12 by gluing its table 8 by means of a glue of the cyanoacrylate type.
- glue of the cyanoacrylate type.
- other types of joining compatible with the rest of the process steps 21 or even other types of glue are conceivable.
- the figures 3 and 4 represent a focused magnification on the laminates 6 of the stones 2 according to two alternatives of the invention explained above. It is thus immediately understood that the size accuracy of the 6 or rondist layers of the stones 2 is of great importance. Indeed, according to the invention the laminates 6 must be mounted edge to edge to limit the size of the interstices between the stones 2.
- the stones 2 do not have grooves 10 and are brought against each other at the of their leaflets 6 as illustrated in figures 1 and 4 .
- the stones 2 do not have grooves 10 and are brought against each other at the of their leaflets 6 as illustrated in figures 1 and 4 .
- the chemical interactions between the materials ensure the fixing of the stones.
- Step 24 shown in broken lines at the figure 13 is intended to engrave at least one groove 10 in at least a portion of the yokes 4 of the stones 2.
- the stones 2 are brought against each other at their level 6 as illustrated to the Figures 1 and 3 .
- the grooves 10 of two stones 2 are vis-à-vis.
- the support 12 may also include a template 14 of dedicated shape to help start the stone plane 2.
- This template 14 can thus form a square like the figure 1 to form a symmetrical decoration piece 1 or a curved body to form a decoration piece 3 in wave.
- step 25 we thus obtain a block of stones 2 secured by their table 8 on the face 15 of the support 12.
- the method 21 continues with a step 27 intended to form the first layer 11, 11 'as illustrated in FIG. figure 5 .
- Figures 8 and 9 can also be combined to adapt the aesthetics of the decoration piece 1, 3, 5.
- Step 27 can be performed according to several different methods.
- a conductive varnish such as for example a fluid comprising silver powder (grains between 1 and 10 microns)
- a varnish having a better covering power of 6 layers to ensure homogeneous growth in the next step 29.
- the Spray deposition method gives a very good aesthetic effect to each stone 2 after step 29 electroplating.
- Physical vapor deposition or chemical metallization deposition in addition to or instead of the above deposition are also possible.
- a bonding layer interposed between the stone surface and the first layer 11, 11 'of a few nanometers, for example chromium, zirconium or titanium, can be used to improve adhesion while remaining substantially invisible.
- step 27 it is therefore understood that the layer 11, 11 'prevents, especially at the level of the leaves 6, any passage between the yokes 4 and the crowns 18 to protect the crowns 18 and, incidentally, the tables 8, of any deposit during the electroplating phase 29.
- step 27 may be followed by step 28 in dashed lines and then step 29 or directly from step 29.
- the method 21 can directly go to step 29 to form a single base 9, 9 'which will form the body of the final element by electrically connecting the layer 11, 11'.
- a frame 16 is reported during step 28 to circumscribe the electrolytic deposition of step 29 above the layers 6 of the stones 2.
- the frame 16 can also be used to to make a single base 9, 9 'which will form a blank of the final element.
- the frame 16 will preferably comprise an electrically conductive track 17 for connecting the first layer 11, 11 '.
- the walls of the frame 16 surrounding the stones 2 are preferably electrically conductive.
- the method 21 is continued by the step 29 of electroplating the second layer 13, 13 'from the first layer 11, 11' in order to finish the production of the single base 9, 9 'as illustrated in FIG. figure 7 .
- the decoration piece 1, 3, 5 thus formed is detached from the support 12 and, if it is used, from the frame 16.
- a machining and / or polishing step may be carried out in order to modify the shape of the single base 9, 9 ', either to form the final element, either to adapt the shape in order to be related to the final element.
- the support 52 which are reported stones 2 is substantially different than that of the first embodiment. Indeed, in the second embodiment, the stones 2 are not reported by their tables 8 substantially flat but by their yokes 4 substantially pyramidal.
- the support 52 according to the second embodiment comprises a plate 59, as visible in FIG. figure 14 formed of easily deformable material such as, for example, SnBi alloy.
- the plate 59 is intended to be stamped with imprints 60 of substantially identical shape and distribution to the yokes 4 of the stones 2 as visible in FIG. figure 15 .
- This plate 59 punched according to the second embodiment allows to work according to similar precisions to the first embodiment.
- each stone 2 is secured in a recess 60 on the face 55 of the support 52 by gluing its cylinder head 4 by means of an adhesive similar to the first embodiment.
- the figure 17 represents a focused enlargement on the layers 6 of the stones 2. It is understood, as for the first embodiment, that the size accuracy of the layers 6 or rondistes of the stones 2 is also very important. Indeed, the layers 6 must be mounted edge to edge to limit the size of the interstices between the stones 2.
- FIG 17 is that in which it is desired to improve the fastening force of the fixing device 47, 47 ', that is to say in which the stones 2 comprise at least one groove 50 at their crown 18.
- these grooves 50 may not be present.
- an intermediate step 24 shown in broken lines at the figure 13 is intended to engrave at least one groove 50 in at least a portion of the rings 18 of the stones 2.
- the stones 2 are brought against each other at their level 6 as illustrated to the Figures 16 and 17 .
- the grooves 50 of two stones 2 are vis-à-vis.
- step 25 it is necessary at the end of step 25 to apply a slight constraint on the tables 8 of the stones 2 in order to perfect their flatness and to reduce as much as possible the interstices between the layers 6 of the stones 2.
- the method 21 continues with a step 27 intended to form the first layer 51, 51 'as illustrated in FIG. figure 18 .
- the first layer 51, 51 ' may cover each crown 18 partially or totally on all or part of the rings 18 and possibly each table 8 partially or totally on all or part of the tables 8.
- the embodiments of the Figures 20 and 21 can also be combined to adapt the aesthetics of the decoration piece 1, 3, 5.
- step 27 is preferably performed by spraying an electrically conductive varnish, such as for example a fluid comprising silver powder (grains between 1 and 10 microns).
- an electrically conductive varnish such as for example a fluid comprising silver powder (grains between 1 and 10 microns).
- a fluid comprising silver powder grains between 1 and 10 microns.
- other types of deposit in addition to or in lieu of the deposit above are also possible.
- step 27 it is therefore understood that the layer 51, 51 'prevents, especially at the level of the leaflets 6, any passage between the yokes 4 and the rings 18 in order to protect the yokes 4 from any deposit during the phase 29 of electroplating.
- step 27 may be followed by step 28 in dashed lines and then step 29 or directly from step 29.
- the method 21 can directly go to step 29 to form a single base 49, 49 'which will form the raw body of the final element by electrically connecting the layer 51, 51'.
- a frame 56 is reported in step 28 to circumscribe the electrolytic deposition of step 29 above the layers 6 of the stones 2.
- the frame 56 can also be used to realize a single base 49, 49 'which will form a rough outline of the final element. If the frame 56 is used, it will have the same specificities as the frame 16 of the first embodiment.
- the second embodiment using a plate 59 preferably the material will be adapted to be easily melted, i.e. having a melting point. low, as for example for the SnBi alloy around 80 ° C, in addition to being soft. Indeed, the step 31 is thus facilitated by melting the plate 59 which releases the yokes 4 of the stones 2 of the support 52 without changing the nature of the base 49, 49 '.
- the process 21 continues with the step 29 of electroplating the second layer 53, 53 'from the first layer 51, 51' in order to finish the production of the single base 49, 49 'as illustrated in FIG. figure 19 .
- the decoration piece 1, 3, 5 thus formed is separated from the support 52 and, if it is used, from the frame 56.
- a machining and / or polishing step may be carried out in order to modify the shape of the single base 49, 49 ', either to form the final element, either to adapt the shape in order to be related to the final element.
- the method 21 allows a wide variety of decorative pieces such as, for example, those of Figures 10 to 12 presenting paved geometries with various stone shapes without its implementation is more difficult which allows its application to all kinds of precious stones, semi-precious or synthetic cheaply.
- the yokes 4 or crowns 18 may be all or partially perforated or not without the need for retouching steps. It is also remarkable, according to the invention, that the stones 2 can be more or less high and / or of different shapes and / or distributed more or less symmetrically and that the heights, angles and depths of the grooves 10, 50 are more or less large, without the complexity of the process 21 is increased. Finally, according to the invention, the manufacturing conditions are improved by working directly through the yoke 4 or the crown 18 of the stones 2 whereas the current methods do not allow it and oblige to continually return the work to verify the good assembly in the stones 2.
- This feature is particularly advantageous in after-sales operations requiring the replacement of a single stone or part of the stones.
- remove a stone is very difficult and induces a great risk of scratching, cracking or crimping stones close to the one to be replaced.
- advantageously according to the invention it is possible to spare the adjacent stones, remove, for example chemically, the metal of the stone to be removed and then pick a new stone in place of the old and reform the entirety of the unique base by significantly reducing the risk of scratching, cracking or creasing of other pavement stones.
- the only restriction of the method 21 concerns the respect of the heights of 6 or rondiste layers in order to avoid the formation of interstices between the stones 2 during step 25.
- the manufacturing method 21 relates to saving time and, incidentally, cost. Indeed, not only the manufacturing method 21 is much shorter compared to a manual embodiment but, in addition, the steps 27 and / or 29 of several decoration pieces 1, 3, 5 can be made at the same time from of several supports 12, 52 or from a single support 12, 52.
- the template 14 of the first embodiment is replaced by the use of a punching of the type of the second embodiment of shape and distribution substantially identical to the crown sets 18 - tables 8.
- the support 52 may be hollow to leave at least a portion of the rear of the plate 59 accessible.
- the plate 59 comprising the cavities 60 may also be made from a resin molded on the cylinder heads 4 of the stones 2 that will actually be used.
- the stones 2 instead of being assembled one by one in a footprint 60 of the plate 59 and then pressed under a slight constraint, would be directly overmolded by the resin, which would be mounted on the support 12, 52.
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Description
L'invention se rapporte à une pièce de décoration serti invisible et, plus précisément, une pièce de décoration notamment pour un article de joaillerie ou de bijouterie formant un pavé de pierres apte à décorer une surface.The invention relates to a piece of invisible set decoration and, more specifically, a decorative piece including a jewelery or jewelery item forming a paved stone suitable for decorating a surface.
Il est connu de sertir des pierres précieuses, semi-précieuses ou synthétiques à l'aide de griffes, de grains ou de rails. Il existe également des sertis du type invisible qui solidarisent les pierres par leur culasse ou par leur couronne. Dans l'état actuel des techniques de serti invisible, il existe de nombreuses méthodes (par fraisage, coulée, clipsage, vissage, etc.) qui selon des systèmes bien définis présentent de multiples inconvénients : les natures, géométries et dimensions des pierres sont souvent limitées, les hauteurs, les profondeurs et les angles des gorges sont souvent contraignantes, les rayures, égrisures et fissures de pierres lors des opérations existent, voire même les réparations lors d'un changement de pierre occasionnent des égrisures sur les pierres annexes, etc.. Aussi, la majorité de ces méthodes demandent, durant l'opération de sertissage, l'intervention manuelle d'un sertisseur. Même si ce dernier est hautement qualifié, le risque de perte, de rayure, de fissuration ou d'égrisure des pierres est permanent.It is known to crimp precious, semi-precious or synthetic stones with claws, grains or rails. There are also crimps of the invisible type which solidarize the stones by their breech or their crown. In the current state of the techniques of invisible seam, there are many methods (by milling, casting, clipping, screwing, etc.) which according to well-defined systems have many disadvantages: the natures, geometries and dimensions of the stones are often limited, the heights, the depths and the angles of the throats are often constraining, the scratches, grits and cracks of stones during the operations exist, even the repairs during a change of stone cause grits on the annexed stones, etc. Also, the majority of these methods require, during the crimping operation, the manual intervention of a crimper. Even if the latter is highly qualified, the risk of loss, scratching, cracking or scratching of the stones is permanent.
Le document
Le but de la présente invention est de pallier tout ou partie les inconvénients cités précédemment en proposant un procédé de fabrication industriel permettant d'obtenir un montage homogène des pierres, une diversité de forme, une précision améliorée et une fixation de meilleure qualité à moindre coût.The purpose of the present invention is to overcome all or part of the disadvantages mentioned above by proposing an industrial manufacturing process for obtaining a homogeneous assembly of stones, a shape diversity, improved accuracy and better quality fixation at lower cost.
A cet effet, l'invention se rapporte à une pièce de décoration comportant plusieurs pierres et un dispositif de fixation des pierres l'une par rapport à l'autre dans laquelle le dispositif de fixation comporte une base unique électrodéposée de forme correspondante à une partie desdites pierres permettant d'attacher sans contrainte toutes les pierres les unes par rapport aux autres, en ce que la base unique comporte au moins une couche électriquement conductrice déposée sur les pierres, et en ce que les feuilletis de pierres sont montés bord à bord les uns par rapport aux autres afin que ladite base unique soit masquée.For this purpose, the invention relates to a decoration piece comprising a plurality of stones and a device for fixing the stones relative to one another in which the fixing device comprises a single electroplated base of a shape corresponding to a part said stones making it possible to fasten all the stones without constraint with respect to each other, in that the single base comprises at least one electrically conductive layer deposited on the stones, and in that the stone layers are mounted side by side on the to each other so that said single base is masked.
Avantageusement selon l'invention, la base est formée en fonction des dispersions des pierres dues aux tailles ce qui permet d'éviter d'engendrer des contraintes internes dans les pierres. La base, du fait qu'elle est électrodéposée, s'adapte directement aux formes des pierres.Advantageously according to the invention, the base is formed as a function of the dispersions of the stones due to the sizes, which makes it possible to avoid generating internal stresses in the stones. The base, because it is electro-deposited, adapts directly to the shapes of the stones.
Conformément à d'autres caractéristiques avantageuses de l'invention :
- le dispositif de fixation attache les pierres les unes par rapport aux autres par leur culasse ou par leur couronne ;
- la base unique recouvre ou non la totalité des culasses ou des couronnes desdites pierres ;
- le dispositif de fixation comporte au moins une gorge réalisée dans au moins une des pierres au niveau de leur culasse ou de leur couronne afin que la base unique, de forme au moins partiellement correspondante à chaque pierre, forme au moins un crochet pour chacune desdites pierres ;
- ladite au moins une gorge forme deux rainures dans deux faces de la pierre ;
- la base unique comporte au moins une couche électriquement conductrice déposée sur les pierres ;
- la base unique comporte une deuxième couche électrodéposée à partir de ladite au moins une couche électriquement conductrice afin d'améliorer la solidité de la pièce de décoration ;
- ladite au moins une couche électriquement conductrice est utilisée comme couche de réflexion ;
- la base unique comporte de l'argent pur et une couche de protection recouvrant l'argent afin d'éviter son ternissement par oxydation.
- the fixing device attaches the stones to each other by their breech or their crown;
- the single base covers or not all the breeches or crowns of said stones;
- the fastening device comprises at least one groove made in at least one of the stones at their cylinder head or their crown so that the single base, of shape at least partially corresponding to each stone, forms at least one hook for each of said stones; ;
- said at least one groove forms two grooves in two faces of the stone;
- the single base comprises at least one electrically conductive layer deposited on the stones;
- the single base comprises a second electrodeposited layer from said at least one electrically conductive layer to improve the strength of the decoration piece;
- said at least one electrically conductive layer is used as a reflection layer;
- the single base contains pure silver and a protective layer covering the silver to prevent its tarnishing by oxidation.
L'invention se rapporte également à un article de joaillerie ou de bijouterie et une pièce d'horlogerie caractérisés en ce qu'ils comportent, rapportée, une pièce de décoration conforme à l'une des variantes précédentes.The invention also relates to an article of jewelry or a jewelery and a timepiece characterized in that they include, reported, a decorative piece according to one of the previous variants.
Enfin, l'invention se rapporte à un procédé de fabrication d'une pièce de décoration comportant les étapes suivantes :
- a) se munir de plusieurs pierres ;
- b) solidariser chaque pierre contre un support, les feuilletis des pierres étant montés bord à bord les uns par rapport aux autres afin de former un pavé de pierres ;
- c) déposer une première couche électriquement conductrice sur au moins une partie desdites pierres ;
- d) électrodéposer une deuxième couche à partir de la première couche électriquement conductrice afin de former une base unique ;
- e) retirer la pièce de décoration ainsi formée par désolidarisation de chacune desdites pierres par rapport au support.
- (a) bring several stones;
- b) solidariser each stone against a support, the layers of stones being mounted edge to edge relative to each other to form a stone pavement;
- c) depositing a first electrically conductive layer on at least a portion of said stones;
- d) electroplating a second layer from the first electrically conductive layer to form a single base;
- e) removing the decoration piece thus formed by separating each of said stones relative to the support.
Conformément à d'autres caractéristiques avantageuses de l'invention :
- le procédé comporte, entre l'étape a) et l'étape b), l'étape f) : graver au moins une gorge dans des culasses desdites pierres afin que la base unique électrodéposée lors de l'étape d) remplisse chacune desdites au moins une gorge en formant un crochet de fixation et, lors l'étape c), le dépôt de la première couche est effectuée sur au moins une partie des culasses des pierres ;
- le procédé comporte, entre l'étape a) et l'étape b), l'étape f) : graver au moins une gorge dans des couronnes desdites pierres afin que la base unique électrodéposée lors de l'étape d) remplisse chacune desdites au moins une gorge en formant un crochet de fixation et, lors l'étape c), le dépôt de la première couche est effectuée sur au moins une partie des couronnes des pierres ;
- le support comporte des empreintes destinées à recevoir les pierres ;
- le procédé comporte, entre l'étape c) et l'étape d), l'étape g) : former un cadre autour dudit pavé afin de circonscrire le dépôt électrolytique de l'étape d) au-dessus desdits feuilletis des pierres ;
- l'étape c) est réalisée par projection d'un fluide comportant de la poudre d'argent.
- the method comprises, between step a) and step b), step f): etching at least one groove in the yokes of said stones so that the single base electrodeposited during step d) fills each of said at least one groove forming a fixing hook and, in step c), the deposition of the first layer is performed on at least a portion of the cylinder heads;
- the method comprises, between step a) and step b), step f): etching at least one groove in crowns of said stones so that the single base electrodeposited during step d) fills each of said at least one groove forming a fixing hook and, in step c), the deposition of the first layer is performed on at least a portion of the crowns of the stones;
- the support has imprints for receiving the stones;
- the method comprises, between step c) and step d), step g): forming a frame around said pad to circumscribe the electrolytic deposition of step d) above said stone sheets;
- step c) is carried out by spraying a fluid comprising silver powder.
D'autres particularités et avantages ressortiront clairement de la description qui en est faite ci-après, à titre indicatif et nullement limitatif, en référence aux dessins annexés, dans lesquels :
- la
figure 1 est une représentation en perspective d'une étape de fixation de pierres selon un premier mode de réalisation de l'invention ; - la
figure 2 est une représentation en coupe de la fin de l'étape de fixation selon un premier mode de réalisation de l'invention ; - la
figure 3 est une représentation partielle agrandie de lafigure 2 ; - la
figure 4 est une représentation de lafigure 3 selon une alternative de l'invention ; - la
figure 5 est une représentation similaire à lafigure 3 d'une première étape de dépôt selon un premier mode de réalisation de l'invention ; - la
figure 6 est une représentation en perspective d'une deuxième étape de dépôt selon un premier mode de réalisation de l'invention ; - la
figure 7 est une représentation en coupe de la fin de la deuxième étape de dépôt selon un premier mode de réalisation de l'invention ; - la
figure 8 est une représentation en coupe d'une pièce de décoration selon un premier mode de réalisation de l'invention ; - la
figure 9 est une représentation en coupe d'une pièce de décoration selon une variante d'un premier mode de réalisation de l'invention ; - la
figure 10 est une représentation vue de dessus d'une pièce de décoration selon l'invention ; - la
figure 11 est une représentation vue de dessus d'une pièce de décoration selon une variante de l'invention ; - la
figure 12 est une représentation vue de dessus d'une pièce de décoration selon une autre variante de l'invention ; - la
figure 13 est un schéma fonctionnel du procédé de fabrication selon l'invention ; - les
figures 14 à 16 sont des représentations d'étapes de fixation de pierres selon un deuxième mode de réalisation de l'invention ; - la
figure 17 est une représentation partielle agrandie de lafigure 16 ; - la
figure 18 est une représentation similaire à lafigure 17 d'une première étape de dépôt selon un deuxième mode de réalisation de l'invention ; - la
figure 19 est une représentation en coupe de la fin de la deuxième étape de dépôt selon un deuxième mode de réalisation de l'invention ; - la
figure 20 est une représentation en coupe d'une pièce de décoration selon un deuxième mode de réalisation de l'invention ; - la
figure 21 est une représentation en coupe d'une pièce de décoration selon une variante d'un deuxième mode de réalisation de l'invention.
- the
figure 1 is a perspective representation of a stone fixing step according to a first embodiment of the invention; - the
figure 2 is a sectional representation of the end of the fixing step according to a first embodiment of the invention; - the
figure 3 is an enlarged partial representation of thefigure 2 ; - the
figure 4 is a representation of thefigure 3 according to an alternative of the invention; - the
figure 5 is a representation similar to thefigure 3 a first deposition step according to a first embodiment of the invention; - the
figure 6 is a perspective representation of a second deposition step according to a first embodiment of the invention; - the
figure 7 is a sectional representation of the end of the second deposition step according to a first embodiment of the invention; - the
figure 8 is a sectional representation of a decorative piece according to a first embodiment of the invention; - the
figure 9 is a sectional representation of a decorative piece according to a variant of a first embodiment of the invention; - the
figure 10 is a view from above of a decoration piece according to the invention; - the
figure 11 is a top view of a decorative piece according to a variant of the invention; - the
figure 12 is a top view of a decorative piece according to another variant of the invention; - the
figure 13 is a block diagram of the manufacturing method according to the invention; - the
Figures 14 to 16 are representations of stone fixing steps according to a second embodiment of the invention; - the
figure 17 is an enlarged partial representation of thefigure 16 ; - the
figure 18 is a representation similar to thefigure 17 a first deposition step according to a second embodiment of the invention; - the
figure 19 is a sectional representation of the end of the second deposition step according to a second embodiment of the invention; - the
figure 20 is a sectional representation of a decorative piece according to a second embodiment of the invention; - the
figure 21 is a sectional representation of a decorative piece according to a variant of a second embodiment of the invention.
Comme illustré aux
Plus particulièrement, l'invention se rapporte à un dispositif de fixation 7, 7', 47, 47' du type serti invisible permettant d'attacher plusieurs pierres 2 précieuses, semi-précieuses ou synthétiques par leur culasse 4 ou par leur couronne 18 de manière à ce que les feuilletis 6 des pierres 2 (également appelés rondistes) soient montés bord à bord afin que les tables 8 des pierres 2 soient sensiblement coplanaires.More particularly, the invention relates to an
Ainsi, quelles que soient la distribution et/ou la forme des pierres 2 utilisées comme illustré par exemple aux
On comprend immédiatement que la base unique 9, 9', 49, 49', qui est principalement électrodéposée, permette ainsi de parfaitement recouvrir les culasses 4 ou les couronnes 18 des pierres 2 avec un minimum de contraintes mécaniques transmis aux pierres.It is immediately understood that the
Ainsi, avantageusement selon l'invention, la base 9, 9', 49, 49' est nativement de forme correspondante aux culasses 4 ou aux couronnes 18 des pierres 2 quelles que soient les dispersions de ces dernières. Cela est rendu possible par l'utilisation d'un procédé de fabrication 21 selon l'invention qui sera expliqué ci-après et qui comporte notamment une étape 29 d'électrodéposition.Thus, advantageously according to the invention, the
Selon un premier mode de réalisation illustré aux
La première couche 11, 11 ' est destinée à adhérer sur les culasses 4 des pierres 2 mais également à fournir une couche électriquement conductrice capable de servir de surface de germination pour la deuxième couche 13, 13' qui sera électrodéposée. Si la première couche 11, 11' a un rôle prépondérant par rapport à l'esthétique finale de la pièce de décoration 1, 3, 5, la deuxième couche 13, 13' est, elle, principalement utilisée pour ses caractéristiques mécaniques, c'est-à-dire vise à améliorer la solidité de la pièce de décoration 1, 3, 5.The
Ainsi, préférentiellement selon l'invention, la première couche 11, 11' comporte un matériau à fort pouvoir de réflexion afin d'être utilisée comme une couche de réflexion de la lumière ambiante. On comprend qu'une telle couche 11, 11' permet ainsi de ne pas trop réduire la brillance de la pièce de décoration 1, 3, 5.Thus, preferably according to the invention, the
A titre d'exemple, suivant les produits et/ou les matériaux sur laquelle la pièce de décoration 1, 3, 5 est rapportée, la première couche 11, 11' peut comporter de l'or et/ou de l'argent et/ou du platine et/ou du palladium et/ou de l'iridium et/ou du cuivre et/ou du titane et/ou de l'aluminium et/ou du nickel et/ou de l'étain et/ou du zinc. La deuxième couche 13, 13', qui est, comme expliqué ci-dessus, beaucoup plus épaisse que la première couche 11, 11', peut reprendre de cette dernière les mêmes matériaux ou leurs alliages.By way of example, depending on the products and / or the materials on which the
Préférentiellement, lorsque la base unique 9, 9' sera choisie en argent, une couche de protection, comme par exemple du nitrure de silicium selon une épaisseur de quelques microns, sera utilisée en recouvrement afin d'éviter le ternissement dû à l'oxydation de l'argent.Preferably, when the
Dans une première variante illustrée à la
Dans une deuxième variante illustrée à la
Selon un deuxième mode de réalisation illustré aux
La première couche 51, 51' est destinée à adhérer sur les couronnes 18 et, éventuellement, sur les tables 8 des pierres 2 mais également à fournir une couche électriquement conductrice capable de servir de surface de germination pour la deuxième couche 53, 53' qui sera électrodéposée. Si la première couche 51, 51' a un rôle prépondérant par rapport à l'esthétique finale de la pièce de décoration 1, 3, 5, la deuxième couche 53, 53' est, elle, principalement utilisée pour ses caractéristiques mécaniques, c'est-à-dire vise à améliorer la solidité de la pièce de décoration 1, 3, 5.The
Ainsi, comme pour le premier mode de réalisation, de manière préférée, la première couche 51, 51' comporte un matériau à fort pouvoir de réflexion afin d'être utilisée comme une couche de réflexion de la lumière ambiante afin de ne pas trop réduire la brillance de la pièce de décoration 1, 3, 5. A titre d'exemple, suivant les produits et/ou les matériaux sur laquelle la pièce de décoration 1, 3, 5 est rapportée, les couches 51, 51' et 53, 53' peuvent comporter des matériaux du même type que respectivement ceux des couches 11, 11' et 13, 13'.Thus, as for the first embodiment, preferably, the
Préférentiellement, lorsque la base unique 49, 49' sera choisie en argent, une couche de protection, comme par exemple du nitrure de silicium selon une épaisseur de quelques microns, sera utilisée en recouvrement afin d'éviter le ternissement dû à l'oxydation de l'argent.Preferably, when the
Dans une première variante illustrée à la
Dans une deuxième variante illustrée à la
La pièce de décoration 1, 3, 5 ainsi formée selon l'un des modes de réalisation, même selon des formes plus ou moins complexes, comme, par exemple, une forme 3 en vague illustrée à la
Selon une alternative de l'invention visible aux
Selon une autre alternative de l'invention, la base unique 9, 9', 49, 49' peut également directement former le corps du produit final ce qui évite d'avoir à rapporter la pièce de décoration 1, 3, 5 sur un autre corps.According to another alternative of the invention, the
Le procédé d'invention 21 va maintenant être expliqué en relation avec les
Dans une deuxième étape 25, les pierres 2 sont solidarisées les unes après les autres sur un support 12, 52. Préférentiellement, le procédé 21 comportant une étape d'électrodéposition 29, le support 12, 52 comporte un matériau électriquement isolant comme du polypropylène ou tout autre matériau compatible avec le procédé 21.In a
Dans le cas du premier mode de réalisation, comme mieux visible à la
Les
Ainsi, comme expliqué ci-dessus, dans le cas où on ne souhaite pas améliorer la force d'attache du dispositif de fixation 7, 7', les pierres 2 ne comportent pas de gorges 10 et sont amenées les unes contre les autres au niveau de leurs feuilletis 6 comme illustré aux
Dans le cas où on souhaite améliorer la force d'attache du dispositif de fixation 7, 7', une étape intermédiaire 24 entre l'étape 23 et l'étape 25 de solidarisation est nécessaire. L'étape 24 représentée en traits discontinus à la
Dans l'exemple illustré à la
Le procédé 21 se poursuit avec une étape 27 destinée à former la première couche 11, 11' comme illustré à la
En effet, avantageusement selon l'invention, seules les parties qui seront recouvertes de la première couche 11, 11' lors de l'étape 27, comporteront l'unique base 9, 9' au final. On comprend donc que la diversité d'apparence esthétique de la pièce de décoration 1, 3, 5 ne rend pas plus difficile le procédé de fabrication 21 contrairement aux procédés manuels existants.Indeed, advantageously according to the invention, only the parts which will be covered with the
L'étape 27 peut être réalisée selon plusieurs procédés différents. Cependant, la projection d'un vernis conducteur, comme par exemple un fluide comportant de la poudre d'argent (grains entre 1 et 10 microns), est préférée. En effet, si la précision des feuilletis 6 n'est pas parfaitement maîtrisée, il peut être préférable de déposer un vernis comportant un meilleur pouvoir couvrant des feuilletis 6 afin de garantir une croissance homogène lors de l'étape suivante 29. De plus, la méthode de dépôt par projection donne un très bon effet esthétique à chaque pierre 2 après l'étape 29 de galvanoplastie.
Un dépôt physique en phase vapeur ou un dépôt par métallisation chimique en complément ou en remplacement du dépôt ci-dessus sont également possibles. Dans le cas du dépôt physique en phase vapeur, une couche d'accrochage, intercalée entre la surface de pierre et la première couche 11, 11' de quelques nanomètres, par exemple en chrome, en zirconium ou en titane, peut être utilisée afin d'améliorer l'adhérence tout en restant sensiblement invisible.Physical vapor deposition or chemical metallization deposition in addition to or instead of the above deposition are also possible. In the case of physical vapor deposition, a bonding layer, interposed between the stone surface and the
A la fin de l'étape 27, on comprend donc que la couche 11, 11' empêche, notamment au niveau des feuilletis 6, tout passage entre les culasses 4 et les couronnes 18 afin de protéger les couronnes 18 et, incidemment, les tables 8, de tout dépôt lors de la phase 29 d'électrodéposition.At the end of
Suivant une autre alternative expliquée ci-dessus, l'étape 27 peut être suivie de l'étape 28 en traits discontinus puis de l'étape 29 ou directement de l'étape 29. Ainsi, si la pièce de décoration n'est pas destinée à être rapportée sur un autre élément, le procédé 21 peut directement passer à l'étape 29 afin de former une base unique 9, 9' qui formera le corps brut de l'élément final en connectant électriquement la couche 11, 11'.According to another alternative explained above, step 27 may be followed by
Cependant, de manière préférée, un cadre 16 est rapporté lors de l'étape 28 afin de circonscrire le dépôt électrolytique de l'étape 29 au-dessus des feuilletis 6 des pierres 2. Bien entendu, le cadre 16 peut également être utilisé afin de réaliser une base unique 9, 9' qui formera une ébauche de l'élément final. Si le cadre 16 est utilisé, c'est-à-dire si l'étape 28 est réalisée, le cadre 16 comportera préférentiellement une piste 17 électriquement conductrice permettant de connecter la première couche 11, 11'. De plus, les parois du cadre 16 entourant les pierres 2 sont, de manière préférée, électriquement conductrices.However, preferably, a
Le procédé 21 se poursuit par l'étape 29 consistant à électrodéposer la deuxième couche 13, 13' à partir de la première couche 11, 11' afin de finir la réalisation de la base unique 9, 9' comme illustré à la
Bien entendu, entre les étapes 29 et 31 ou, éventuellement, après l'étape 31, une étape d'usinage et/ou de polissage 30 peut être effectuée afin de modifier la forme de la base unique 9, 9', soit pour former l'élément final, soit pour adapter la forme afin d'être rapportée à l'élément final.Of course, between
Dans le cas du deuxième mode de réalisation, comme mieux visible aux
Ainsi, avantageusement selon l'invention, le support 52 selon le deuxième mode de réalisation, comporte une plaque 59, comme visible à la
Préférentiellement, chaque pierre 2 est solidarisée dans une empreinte 60 sur la face 55 du support 52 par collage de sa culasse 4 au moyen d'une colle similaire au premier mode de réalisation. La
L'exemple illustré à la
Ainsi, dans le cas de la
Par rapport au premier mode de réalisation, il n'est plus nécessaire d'utiliser un gabarit. En effet, les empreintes 60 permettent de distribuer les pierres 2 les unes par rapport aux autres. Dans le deuxième mode de réalisation, il est cependant nécessaire à la fin de l'étape 25 d'appliquer une légère contrainte sur les tables 8 des pierres 2 afin de parfaire leur planéité et diminuer le plus possibles les interstices entre les feuilletis 6 des pierres 2. A la fin de l'étape 25, on obtient donc un pavé de pierres 2 solidarisées par leur culasse 4 sur la face 55 du support 52.Compared to the first embodiment, it is no longer necessary to use a template. In fact, the
Le procédé 21 se poursuit avec une étape 27 destinée à former la première couche 51, 51' comme illustré à la
En effet, avantageusement selon l'invention, seules les parties qui seront recouvertes de la première couche 51, 51' lors de l'étape 27, comporteront l'unique base 49, 49' au final. On comprend donc que la diversité d'apparence esthétique de la pièce de décoration 1, 3, 5 ne rend pas plus difficile le procédé de fabrication 21 contrairement aux procédés manuels existants. Comme pour le premier mode de réalisation, l'étape 27 est préférablement réalisée par projection d'un vernis électriquement conducteur, comme par exemple un fluide comportant de la poudre d'argent (grains entre 1 et 10 microns). Toutefois, d'autres types de dépôt en complément ou en remplacement du dépôt ci-dessus sont également possibles.Indeed, advantageously according to the invention, only the parts which will be covered with the
A la fin de l'étape 27, on comprend donc que la couche 51, 51' empêche, notamment au niveau des feuilletis 6, tout passage entre les culasses 4 et les couronnes 18 afin de protéger les culasses 4 de tout dépôt lors de la phase 29 d'électrodéposition.At the end of
Suivant une autre alternative expliquée ci-dessus, l'étape 27 peut être suivie de l'étape 28 en traits discontinus puis de l'étape 29 ou directement de l'étape 29. Ainsi, si la pièce de décoration n'est pas destinée à être rapportée sur un autre élément, le procédé 21 peut directement passer à l'étape 29 afin de former une base unique 49, 49' qui formera le corps brut de l'élément final en connectant électriquement la couche 51, 51'.According to another alternative explained above, step 27 may be followed by
Cependant, de manière préférée, un cadre 56 est rapporté lors de l'étape 28 afin de circonscrire le dépôt électrolytique de l'étape 29 au-dessus des feuilletis 6 des pierres 2. Bien entendu, le cadre 56 peut également être utilisé afin de réaliser une base unique 49, 49' qui formera une ébauche de l'élément final. Si le cadre 56 est utilisé, il aura les mêmes spécificités que le cadre 16 du premier mode de réalisation.However, preferably, a
Par rapport au premier mode de réalisation, le deuxième mode de réalisation utilisant une plaque 59, de manière préférée, le matériau sera adapté pour être facilement fondu, c'est-à-dire possédant un point de fusion bas, comme par exemple pour l'alliage SnBi autour de 80°C, en plus d'être mou. En effet, l'étape 31 est ainsi facilitée en fondant la plaque 59 ce qui libère les culasses 4 des pierres 2 du support 52 sans modifier la nature de la base 49, 49'.With respect to the first embodiment, the second embodiment using a
Le procédé 21 se poursuit par l'étape 29 consistant à électrodéposer la deuxième couche 53, 53' à partir de la première couche 51, 51' afin de finir la réalisation de la base unique 49, 49' comme illustré à la
Bien entendu, entre les étapes 29 et 31 ou, éventuellement, après l'étape 31, une étape d'usinage et/ou de polissage 30 peut être effectuée afin de modifier la forme de la base unique 49, 49', soit pour former l'élément final, soit pour adapter la forme afin d'être rapportée à l'élément final.Of course, between
A la lecture des explications ci-dessus des deux modes de réalisation, on comprend que le procédé 21 autorise une grande diversité de pièces de décoration comme, par exemple, celles des
De plus, les culasses 4 ou les couronnes 18 peuvent être toutes ou partiellement ajourées ou non sans que des étapes de retouches soient rendues nécessaires. Il est également remarquable, selon l'invention, que les pierres 2 puissent être plus ou moins hautes et/ou de formes différentes et/ou distribuées plus ou moins symétriquement et que les hauteurs, les angles et les profondeurs des gorges 10, 50 soient plus ou moins grandes, sans que la complexité du procédé 21 soit augmentée. Enfin, selon l'invention, les conditions de fabrication sont améliorées en travaillant directement par la culasse 4 ou la couronne 18 des pierres 2 alors que les méthodes actuelles ne le permettent pas et obligent à continuellement retourner l'ouvrage pour vérifier le bon montage dans les pierres 2.In addition, the
Cette particularité est d'autant plus avantageuse lors d'opérations en après-vente nécessitant le remplacement d'une seule pierre ou d'une partie des pierres. Ainsi, par les méthodes mécaniques actuelles de serti invisible, retirer une pierre est très difficile et induit un grand risque de rayure, de fissuration ou d'égrisure des pierres proches de celle à remplacer. Au contraire, avantageusement selon l'invention, il est possible d'épargner les pierres adjacentes, retirer, par exemple chimiquement, le métal de la pierre à retirer puis recoller une nouvelle pierre à la place de l'ancienne et reformer l'intégralité de la base unique en réduisant considérablement le risque de rayure, fissuration ou d'égrisure des autres pierres du pavé.This feature is particularly advantageous in after-sales operations requiring the replacement of a single stone or part of the stones. Thus, by the current mechanical methods of invisible seam, remove a stone is very difficult and induces a great risk of scratching, cracking or crimping stones close to the one to be replaced. On the contrary, advantageously according to the invention, it is possible to spare the adjacent stones, remove, for example chemically, the metal of the stone to be removed and then pick a new stone in place of the old and reform the entirety of the unique base by significantly reducing the risk of scratching, cracking or creasing of other pavement stones.
La seule restriction du procédé 21 concerne le respect des hauteurs de feuilletis 6 ou rondistes afin d'éviter la formation d'interstices entre les pierres 2 lors de l'étape 25.The only restriction of the
Enfin, un autre avantage du procédé de fabrication 21 selon l'invention concerne le gain de temps et, incidemment, de coût. En effet, non seulement le procédé de fabrication 21 est beaucoup moins long par rapport à une réalisation manuelle mais, en plus, les étapes 27 et/ou 29 de plusieurs pièces de décoration 1, 3, 5 peuvent être réalisées en même temps à partir de plusieurs supports 12, 52 ou à partir d'un unique support 12,52.Finally, another advantage of the
Bien entendu, la présente invention ne se limite pas à l'exemple illustré mais est susceptible de diverses variantes et modifications qui apparaîtront à l'homme de l'art. En particulier, d'autres variantes de réalisation que celles présentes aux
De plus, il est parfaitement envisageable que la face 15, 55 du support 12, 52 ne soit pas plane afin de permettre la réalisation d'une pièce de décoration 1, 3, 5 dont les tables 8 des pierres 2 ne soient pas coplanaires.In addition, it is perfectly conceivable that the
Enfin, il peut parfaitement être envisagé que le gabarit 14 du premier mode de réalisation soit remplacé par l'utilisation d'un poinçonnage du type du deuxième mode de réalisation de forme et de distribution sensiblement identiques aux ensembles couronnes 18 - tables 8. De plus, pour faciliter l'élimination de la plaque 59 lors de l'étape 31, le support 52 peut être creux pour laisser accessible au moins une partie de l'arrière de la plaque 59.Finally, it may well be envisaged that the
Quel que soit le mode de réalisation, à titre alternatif, la plaque 59 comportant les empreintes 60 peut également être réalisée à partir d'une résine moulée sur les culasses 4 des pierres 2 qui seront effectivement utilisées. Ainsi, les pierres 2 au lieu d'être assemblée une à une dans une empreinte 60 de la plaque 59 puis enfoncées sous une légère contrainte, seraient directement surmoulées par la résine, laquelle serait montée sur le support 12, 52.Regardless of the embodiment, alternatively, the
Claims (20)
- Decorative part (1, 3, 5) including several stones (2) and a device (7, 7', 47, 47') for securing the stones (2) in relation to each other, in which the securing device (7, 7', 47, 47') includes a single electrodeposited base (9, 9', 49, 49') whose shape matches one part of said stones, allowing all the stones (2) to be attached in relation to each other without any stress, in that the single base (9, 9', 49, 49') has at least one electrically conductive layer (11, 11', 51, 51') deposited on the stones (2), and in that the girdles (6) of the stones (2) are mounted edge-to-edge in relation to each other so that said single base is concealed.
- Part (1, 3, 5) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the securing device (7, 7') attaches the stones one by one in relation to each other via the pavilion thereof (4).
- Part (1, 3, 5) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the single base (9) covers all of the pavilions (4) of said stones.
- Part (1, 3, 5) according to claim 2, characterized in that the single base (9') leaves one part of the pavilions (4) of said stones uncovered.
- Part (1, 3, 5) according to claim 1, characterized in that the securing device (47, 47') attaches the stones in relation to each other via the crown thereof (18).
- Part (1, 3, 5) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the single base (49) covers all of the tables (8) of said stones
- Part (1, 3, 5) according to claim 5, characterized in that the single base (49') leaves one part of the tables (8) of said stones uncovered.
- Part (1, 3, 5) according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the securing device (7, 7', 47, 47') includes at least one groove (10, 50) made in at least one of the stones (2) so that the single base (9, 9', 49, 49'), of at least partially matching shape, forms at least one hook for each of said at least one of the stones (2).
- Part (1, 3, 5) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said at least one groove (10, 50) forms two slots in two surfaces of each stone (2).
- Part (1, 3, 5) according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the single base (9, 9', 49, 49') includes a second layer (13, 13', 53, 53') electrodeposited from said at least one electrically conductive layer so as to improve the solidity of the decorative part (1, 3, 5).
- Part (1, 3, 5) according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least one electrically conductive layer (11, 11', 51, 51') is used as a reflective layer.
- Part (1, 3, 5) according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the single base (9, 9', 49, 49') includes pure silver and a protective layer covering the silver to prevent the tarnishing thereof by oxidation.
- Timepiece characterized in that it includes at least one decorative part (1, 3, 5) according to any of the preceding claims.
- Piece of jewellery, characterized in that it includes at least one decorative part (1, 3, 5) according to any of claims 1 to 12.
- Method (21) of manufacturing a decorative part (1, 3, 5) including the following steps:a) taking (23) several stones (2);b) securing (25) each stone (2) against a support (12, 52), the girdles (6) of the stones (2) being mounted edge-to-edge in relation to each other so as to form a pavé stone (2) setting;c) depositing (27) a first electrically conductive layer (11, 11', 51, 51') on at least one part of said stones (2);d) electrodepositing (29) a second layer (13, 13', 53, 53') from the first electrically conductive layer so as to form a single base (9, 9', 49, 49');e) removing (31) the decorative part (1, 3, 5) thereby formed by detaching each of said stones from the support (12, 52).
- Method (21) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that, between step a) and step b), it includes the following step:f) etching (24) at least one groove (10) in pavilions (4) of said stones so that the single base (9, 9') electrodeposited in step d) fills each of said at least one groove (10), thus forming a securing hook;
and in that, in step c), the first layer (11, 11') is deposited over at least one part of the pavilions (4) of the stones (2). - Method (21) according to claim 15, characterized in that, between step a) and step b), it includes the following step:f) etching (24) at least one groove (50) in crowns (18) of said stones so that the single base (49, 49') electrodeposited in step d) fills each of said at least one groove (50), thus forming a securing hook;
and in that, in step c), the first layer (51, 51') is deposited over at least one part of the crowns (18) of the stones (2). - Method (21) according to any of claims 15 to 17, characterized in that the support (12, 52) includes cavities (60) for receiving the stones (2).
- Method (21) according to any of claims 15 to 18, characterized in that between step c) and step d), it includes the following step:g) forming (28) a frame (16, 56) around said pavé setting in order to delimit the electrodeposition of step d) above said girdles of the stones (2).
- Method (21) according to any of claims 15 to 19, characterized in that step c) is performed by spraying a fluid including silver powder.
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
EP10776674.3A EP2503914B1 (en) | 2009-11-25 | 2010-11-09 | Decorative article with invisible setting |
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
EP09176994A EP2327323A1 (en) | 2009-11-25 | 2009-11-25 | Decorative article with invisible setting |
CH10452010A CH703382B1 (en) | 2010-06-25 | 2010-06-25 | decorative piece in invisible setting. |
EP10776674.3A EP2503914B1 (en) | 2009-11-25 | 2010-11-09 | Decorative article with invisible setting |
PCT/EP2010/067135 WO2011064092A1 (en) | 2009-11-25 | 2010-11-09 | Invisible crimp decoration part |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP2503914A1 EP2503914A1 (en) | 2012-10-03 |
EP2503914B1 true EP2503914B1 (en) | 2014-04-16 |
Family
ID=43384537
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP10776674.3A Active EP2503914B1 (en) | 2009-11-25 | 2010-11-09 | Decorative article with invisible setting |
Country Status (9)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (2) | US9345294B2 (en) |
EP (1) | EP2503914B1 (en) |
JP (1) | JP5379311B2 (en) |
CN (1) | CN102665478B (en) |
ES (1) | ES2480280T3 (en) |
HK (1) | HK1175673A1 (en) |
PT (1) | PT2503914E (en) |
RU (1) | RU2546501C2 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2011064092A1 (en) |
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US9402450B2 (en) | 2012-05-02 | 2016-08-02 | Grand Rainbow International Limited | Invisible setting and methods and tools for effecting same |
US9801434B2 (en) | 2012-05-02 | 2017-10-31 | Grand Rainbow International Limited | Invisible setting and methods and tools for effecting same |
US10772396B2 (en) * | 2012-12-21 | 2020-09-15 | Omega S.A. | Decorative piece produced by setting on amorphous metal |
US10588386B2 (en) * | 2012-12-21 | 2020-03-17 | Omega S.A. | Decorative piece with invisible setting |
CH707581B1 (en) * | 2013-02-08 | 2020-01-15 | Les Ateliers Horlogers Dior Sa | Piece for watchmaking and method of manufacturing such a piece. |
US20160270494A1 (en) * | 2013-10-15 | 2016-09-22 | Grand Rainbow International Limited | Invisible setting and methods for effecting same |
UA105928U (en) * | 2015-10-05 | 2016-04-11 | Ігор Юрійович Лобортас | METHOD OF CONNECTING STONES |
ITUA20164112A1 (en) * | 2016-06-06 | 2017-12-06 | Ferdiam S R L | Procedure for making decorations using precious stones |
CN106086970A (en) * | 2016-06-17 | 2016-11-09 | 钟福龙 | A kind of processing method of natural jade spar class bijouterie |
EP3479720B1 (en) * | 2017-11-07 | 2020-03-25 | The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd | Method for crimping a stone |
EP3479721B1 (en) * | 2017-11-07 | 2020-05-13 | The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd | Method for crimping a stone |
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2010
- 2010-11-09 EP EP10776674.3A patent/EP2503914B1/en active Active
- 2010-11-09 WO PCT/EP2010/067135 patent/WO2011064092A1/en active Application Filing
- 2010-11-09 US US13/503,757 patent/US9345294B2/en active Active
- 2010-11-09 RU RU2012126149/12A patent/RU2546501C2/en active
- 2010-11-09 JP JP2012540352A patent/JP5379311B2/en active Active
- 2010-11-09 PT PT107766743T patent/PT2503914E/en unknown
- 2010-11-09 ES ES10776674.3T patent/ES2480280T3/en active Active
- 2010-11-09 CN CN201080052948.1A patent/CN102665478B/en active Active
-
2013
- 2013-03-11 HK HK13102988.5A patent/HK1175673A1/en unknown
-
2015
- 2015-10-01 US US14/872,372 patent/US9596910B2/en active Active
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RU2546501C2 (en) | 2015-04-10 |
EP2503914A1 (en) | 2012-10-03 |
JP5379311B2 (en) | 2013-12-25 |
US20120225314A1 (en) | 2012-09-06 |
PT2503914E (en) | 2014-07-24 |
US9345294B2 (en) | 2016-05-24 |
US20160073746A1 (en) | 2016-03-17 |
JP2013511365A (en) | 2013-04-04 |
RU2012126149A (en) | 2013-12-27 |
US9596910B2 (en) | 2017-03-21 |
HK1175673A1 (en) | 2013-07-12 |
ES2480280T3 (en) | 2014-07-25 |
WO2011064092A1 (en) | 2011-06-03 |
CN102665478B (en) | 2014-10-15 |
CN102665478A (en) | 2012-09-12 |
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