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EP2473236A2 - Utilisation de purine et/ou d'un dérivé de purine et d'au moins un oligonucléotide pour influencer le processus de pigmentation naturel - Google Patents

Utilisation de purine et/ou d'un dérivé de purine et d'au moins un oligonucléotide pour influencer le processus de pigmentation naturel

Info

Publication number
EP2473236A2
EP2473236A2 EP10734959A EP10734959A EP2473236A2 EP 2473236 A2 EP2473236 A2 EP 2473236A2 EP 10734959 A EP10734959 A EP 10734959A EP 10734959 A EP10734959 A EP 10734959A EP 2473236 A2 EP2473236 A2 EP 2473236A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
hair
use according
oligonucleotide
purine
theophylline
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP10734959A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Melanie Giesen
Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP2473236A2 publication Critical patent/EP2473236A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4953—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom containing pyrimidine ring derivatives, e.g. minoxidil
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/606—Nucleosides; Nucleotides; Nucleic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the use of a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative with at least one oligonucleotide for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages.
  • hair has a psychosocial function that should not be underestimated.
  • they serve as a means of interpersonal communication and are a sign of their own individuality. Changes, such as the graying, can lead to a massive impairment of the self-confidence of the person concerned.
  • Pigmentation in the hair follicle is controlled by a defined complex set of molecular signals. Since melanogenesis in gray follicles is obviously influenced, it can be assumed that parts of this network are modified in the gray follicle. A sequelae is the reduction of melanin synthesis, which leads to the graying of the follicle.
  • the complex set of molecular signals affecting melanogenesis includes, among others, the expression of MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit. MCR1 and ckit are receptors that relay key melanogenesis signals through the binding of their ligands alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone and stem cell factor to the cell interior.
  • GpIOO is a protein of the melanosome membrane and also regulates other melanogno-relevant proteins. Since these parameters are of essential importance in hair follicle pigmentation, it is advantageous to influence these parameters if the application of a test formulation is intended to maintain or reactivate melanin synthesis in the hair follicle cells. Maintaining the pigmentation and thus the youthfulness of the hair through suitable formulations of active ingredients is a challenge for cosmetic research.
  • the prior art (WO91 / 07945) discloses the use of xanthines for stimulating pigmentation of the skin and hair.
  • the object of the present invention is therefore to provide active substances or active agent combinations and compositions containing them which are suitable for the natural pigmentation process, especially in the hair or hair follicles, even better to influence, without the described
  • the object is achieved by the use of a combination of purine and / or a
  • influencing the natural pigmentation process means the positive or negative influence on the natural one
  • Coloring / coloring and / or pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages in particular the stimulation or the partial or complete inhibition of the natural, i. biological pigmentation process in skin and / or skin appendages, in particular
  • skin is particularly preferably to be understood as meaning the skin without mucous membrane. Very particularly preferred is the term
  • Hair or hair follicles preferably body hair, beard hair and head hair, very particularly preferably beard hair and head hair, very particularly preferably hair on the head or the corresponding hair follicles.
  • Pigmentation process the positive or negative influence understood at least a partial step of the natural pigmentation process. This influence affects in particular the
  • Gene regulation i. the regulation at the expression level
  • enzyme regulation i. the regulation of the expression level
  • MCR1 melanocortin receptor 1
  • Enzyme level includes.
  • influencing the positive influence preferably the positive regulation (upregulation or activation or
  • Pigmentation process leads. Particularly preferred is the stimulation of melanogenesis in the human hair follicles, especially the hair of the head (hair follicles located on the scalp / upper head).
  • the pigmentation process in particular the melanogenesis, the skin and the skin appendages, preferably the hair or the hair follicle
  • the natural pigmentation process in particular melanogenesis
  • the pigmentation process, preferably the melanogenesis, of the human hair or of the human hair follicle is influenced.
  • the stimulation, enhancement, stimulation or improvement of the melanin synthesis in the melanocytes is particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • This is achieved, for example, by increasing the gene expression of signal molecules such as MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit.
  • the influence, preferably stimulation, of the melanogenesis is achieved by the use according to the invention.
  • melanogenesis is stimulated in the hair or hair follicles of the hairy scalp and / or the beard, in particular in humans.
  • the stimulation of the pigmentation means in particular, the improvement, enhancement and / or stimulation of the transport of the melanosomes into the keratinocytes surrounding the hair follicle, and furthermore the pigmentation of the individual hair perceptible with the eye or correspondingly suitable measuring methods, a selection of hairs , in particular an area of hairy skin, in particular the scalp, or of the entire head and / or whisker.
  • the use according to the invention prevents, preferably substantially prevents, and / or reduces the hair grain, in particular of the human hair.
  • hair graying is understood as meaning both the hair graying which is visually discernible by the mixture of white and pigmented hair and the pigment dilution in a single hair, that is to say the graying of a single hair.
  • a prevention of hair graying takes place especially in hair not grayed, a reduction in hair graying can take place both in already grayed as well as hair not yet graying.
  • hair follicles in which melanogenesis is not, no longer or not fully functional or disturbed or reduced are re-stimulated / stimulated to melanogenesis, while in non-gray hairs / hair follicles a disorder, Reduction or downregulation of melanogenesis does not occur at all or only to a lesser extent.
  • already grayed hair is repigmented by the use according to the invention of a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative with at least one oligonucleotide.
  • the use according to the invention is a cosmetic use which is non-therapeutic.
  • Aging process especially non-pathological hair graying is a purely cosmetic use, which is not a treatment and / or prophylaxis of a disease and thus non-therapeutic.
  • the use according to the invention is topical, i. by applying to the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular the face and / or
  • already grayed hair is repigmented by the use according to the invention of a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative with at least one oligonucleotide.
  • Purine derivative preferably theophylline, with at least one oligonucleotide, is able to synergize the natural pigmentation process, in particular in the hair or hair follicle
  • the combination according to the invention induced both gene expression of MCR-1 and that of ckit and gp100 in a synergistic manner. In addition, a synergistic increase in melanin synthesis was observed.
  • Means can thus the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or
  • Affected skin appendages in particular stimulated.
  • this can be used to influence, in particular stimulate, the natural pigmentation process of the hair, the hair follicle or in the hair follicle.
  • the agents used in the invention are suitable, the
  • Pigmentation of the hair stimulate and / or improve the melanogenesis, especially in the
  • Hair follicles to prevent and / or reduce hair graying, as well as graying
  • the agents used in the invention therefore purine and / or
  • Purine (7 / - / - imidazo [4,5-c /] pyrimidine) does not occur freely in nature, but forms the main body of the purines. Purines in turn are a group of important in the
  • Purine can be prepared, for example, from aminoacetonitrile and formamide. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways. Among purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, some representatives are particularly preferred according to the invention. Cosmetic agents preferably to be used according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (PUR-I)
  • radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are independently selected from -H, - OH, -NH 2 , -SH and the radicals R 4 , R 5 and R 6 are independently selected from -H, -CH 3 and -CH 2 - CH 3 , where the following compounds are preferred:
  • the purine derivative is selected from xanthine, caffeine, theobromine and theophylline, especially theophylline.
  • the purine or purine derivative is used in a cosmetic composition, the purine or the purine derivative in a total amount of 0.00001 - 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 - 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 - 1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.005 - 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition contains.
  • Oligonucleotides are molecules that consist of several nucleotides.
  • One nucleotide is composed of three constituents: a phosphoric acid (monophosphate), a monosaccharide with 5 C atoms, also called pentose, which is present as a five-membered ring (furanose ring) and one of the five nucleobases, namely adenine (A), guanine (G) , Cytosine (C), thymine (T) or uracil (U).
  • the at least one oligonucleotide used according to the invention is to be understood as meaning single-stranded or double-stranded nucleic acid, which may be of natural or synthetic origin.
  • the oligonucleotide is preferably selected from synthetic nucleic acids, nucleic acids of eukaryotic origin, such as nucleic acids from fish roes or wheat germs and nucleic acids of bacterial origin, in particular from nucleic acids from Escherichia coli and Clostridium perfringens.
  • Preferred nucleic acids used according to the invention are those which are selected from DNA and RNA, in particular low molecular weight bacterial DNA, low molecular weight eukaryotic DNA. Very particular preference is given to oligonucleotides from a single-stranded DNA.
  • Oligonucleotides which can be used according to the invention have a chain length of 4 to 100, in particular 7 to 50, preferably 8 to 30, preferably 10 to 25 and very particularly preferably 12 to 22 nucleotides.
  • the at least one oligonucleotide has a sequence of at least 4, preferably at least 5, more preferably at least 6, most preferably at least 7 or more guanine nucleotides.
  • the at least one oligonucleotide suitable according to the invention contains several guanine (G) nucleotides in succession.
  • nucleic acid sequence suitable according to the invention comprises several, at least 2 (> 2), preferably at least 3 (> 3), in particular at least 4 (> 4), very particularly preferably at least 5 or more (> 5), in particular preferably 6 (> 6) most preferably contains at least 7 (> 7) identical nucleotides in succession.
  • the oligonucleotide has a content of at least 55%, in particular 65%, preferably at least 75%, particularly preferably at least 80%, more preferably at least 85%, very preferably at least 90%, most preferably at least 95% guanine Having nucleotide in the nucleic acid sequence.
  • the percentages are based on the frequency of the number of guanine nucleotides relative to the total number of nucleotides in the entire oligonucleotide.
  • the oligonucleotide is a G homopolymer, i. the oligonucleotide has only guanine nucleotides.
  • G homopolymers having a chain length of 8 to 30, in particular 10 to 25, very particularly 12 to 20 guanine nucleotides.
  • a mixture of two or more oligonucleotides preferably to be used according to the invention must contain at least one preferred oligonucleotide according to the invention (as described above, the G-rich oligonucleotides (with G content of at least 55% and higher).)
  • the other oligonucleotide (s) may be selected from the preferred oligonucleotide according to the invention It is also possible to use mixtures which have two, three or more the particularly preferred G-rich oligonucleotides (with G content of at least 55% and higher (see above)) and / or in particular at least one G homopolymer.
  • the nucleobases of the at least one oligonucleotide used according to the invention may be methylated or unmethylated.
  • oligonucleotides which can be used according to the invention can be chemically modified completely (all nucleotides) or partially (only a few nucleotides) in a manner known to the person skilled in the art.
  • the oligonucleotide preferably has at least one, preferably 2 or more, or completely phosphorothioate linkages.
  • Particularly preferred according to the invention are phosphorodiesters, phosphorothioate-phosphodiester mixmers or phosphorothioates.
  • Particularly preferred combinations according to the invention are formed from at least one G homopolymer having a chain length of 10 to 20 nucleotides and xanthine, at least one G homopolymer having a chain length of 10 to 20 nucleotides and purine, at least one G homopolymer having a chain length of 10 to 20 nucleotides and caffeine or at least one G homopolymer having a chain length of 10 to 20 nucleotides and theobromine, most preferably at least one G homopolymer having a chain length of 10 to 20 nucleotides and theophylline.
  • the combination of a 12G homopolymer (a G homopolymer with a chain length of 12 guanine nucleotides), which is fully linked via phosphodiester bonds, with theophylline.
  • a 20 G homopolymer (a G homopolymer having a chain length of 20 guanine nucleotides), which is completely linked via phosphorothioate bonds.
  • the at least one oligonucleotide is used in a cosmetic agent which contains the at least one oligonucleotide in a total amount of 0.0000001-5 wt.%, Preferably 0.000001-1 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.00001 - 0.1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.00005 - 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition contains.
  • the ratio of purine or purine derivative to the at least one oligonucleotide is 50: 1 to 1:10, in particular from 25: 1 to 1: 5, preferably from 10: 1 to 1: 2.
  • Particularly preferred combinations are 0.00001-10 wt%, preferably 0.0001-5 wt%, more preferably 0.001-1 wt%, most preferably 0.005-0.1 wt% theophylline with 0, 0000001 - 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.000001 - 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.00001 - 0.1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.00005 - 0.1 wt .-% G-rich oligonucleotide , preferably G homopolymer, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Particularly preferred is a Kombinatin of 0.005 - 0.1 wt .-% theophylline with 0.00005 - 0.1 wt .-% G homopolymer.
  • Very particularly preferred combinations are the following combinations with the above-mentioned preferred weight percentages in an agent used according to the invention: at least one 12 G homopolymer with theophylline, at least one 13 G homopolymer with theophylline, at least one 14 G homopolymer with theophylline, at least a 15G homopolymer with theophylline, at least one 16G homopolymer with theophylline, at least one 17G homopolymer with theophylline, at least one 18G homopolymer with theophylline, at least one 19G homopolymer with theophylline, at least a 20G homopolymer with theophylline, at least one 21G homopolymer with theophylline and at least one 22G homopolymer with theophylline.
  • These G homopolymers may be linked to phosphodiester bonds and / or phosphorothioate bonds.
  • the cosmetic agents used according to the invention show improved care effects on the skin and on the hair.
  • preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are hair treatment agents.
  • Hair treatment compositions for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair dyes, bleaching agents, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hairsprays, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair coloring shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair waving Lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they are formulated as shampoo, hair tonics, hair conditioner, hair conditioner, hair foam, hair setting agent, hair spray, hair gel and / or hair dyeing agent. In view of the fact that the consumer often shies away from the use of several different means and / or several application steps for reasons of time and convenience, these means are particularly advantageous.
  • At least one hair conditioning agent selected from cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, silicones and / or vegetable oils is contained.
  • the agents used in the invention may contain other active ingredients and adjuvants. These are described below.
  • compositions to be used according to the invention may contain surfactants, in particular cationic surfactants.
  • surfactants for surfactant-containing agents to be used according to the invention, protection is desired or protection may be desired;
  • Surfactants, in particular cationic surfactants contribute to the technical aim of the invention and thus to the solution of the technical problem underlying the application according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as cationic care substance - based on their weight - 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) surfactant (s) from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds and / or the esterquats and / or the amidoamines containing preferred cationic (s)
  • surfactant (s) is / are selected from alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or dialkyldimethylammoni
  • the agents used according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers.
  • polymers for polymer-containing agents to be used according to the invention protection is desired or protection can be desired;
  • Polymers in particular cationic polymers, contribute to the technical aim of the invention and thus to the solution of the technical problem underlying the application according to the invention.
  • Preferred polymers the amounts in which they are contained in compositions to be used according to the invention, are disclosed in priority document DE 102009044976 on pages 20 to 29, the features mentioned there clearly belong implicitly to the description of the invention contained in the filed application and thus to the disclosure content this application.
  • Another preferred group of ingredients of the agents used in the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below:
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A 1 ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the agents used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in quantities of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others, vitamin B 1 (thiamine), vitamin B 2 (riboflavin), vitamin B 3 .
  • the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone. Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group.
  • panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols.
  • Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are preferably contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal
  • Vitamin C ascorbic acid
  • Vitamin C is used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred.
  • the use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol).
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-c /] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed.
  • Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment agents used according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt. % of at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances, with agents to be used particularly preferably containing coenzyme Q 10, preferably from 0.005 to 0.1% by weight.
  • the agents used according to the invention may also contain plastoquinones (polyprenylated 2,3-dimethylbenzoquinone derivatives).
  • preferred agents used in the invention are characterized by being 0.0002 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and In particular, 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one plastoquinone.
  • agents to be used according to the invention are preferred in which the weight ratio of the ingredients a) and b) is from 10: 1 to 1: 100, preferably from 5: 1 to 1:50, particularly preferably from 2: 1 to 1:20 and in particular 1: 1 to 1: 10.
  • theophylline is a particularly preferred purine derivative
  • the homo-G polymers particularly preferred oligonucleotides and the coenzyme Q10 is a particularly preferred biochinone.
  • Particularly preferred agents used according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, the at least one homo G polymer in a total amount of 0.0000001-5% by weight, preferably 0.000001-1% by weight, more preferably 0.00001-0.1 wt%, most preferably 0.00005-0.1 wt%, and 0.001-2.5 wt%, preferably 0.0025-1 wt%, especially preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% theophylline and 0.0002 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5
  • the agents used according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids.
  • Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, ⁇ Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L- methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine sulfox
  • Preferred agents used according to the invention comprise one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges.
  • preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1, 5 % By weight, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group of glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.
  • At least one homo G polymer having 12 to 22 nucleotides and phosphorothioate linkage and theophylline with glycine at least one homo G polymer having 12 to 22 nucleotides and phosphorothioate linkage and theophylline with alanine
  • at least one homo G polymer with 12 to 22 nucleotides and phosphorothioate linkage and theophylline with valine at least one homo G polymer of 12 to 22 nucleotides and phosphorothioate linkage and theophylline with lysine
  • at least one homo G polymer of 12 to 22 nucleotides and phosphorothioate linkage and theophylline with leucine at least one homo G Polymer with 12 to 22 nucleotides and phosphorothioate linkage and theophylline with threonine.
  • compositions preferably to be used according to the invention contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0 , 1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of at least one 2-furanone derivative of the formula (Fur I) and / or of the formula (Fur-II)
  • preferred hair-treatment compositions contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).
  • compositions used according to the invention may contain, in addition to optional further ingredients, other substances which prevent, alleviate or heal hair loss.
  • a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous.
  • Propecia (finasteride) is currently the only preparation that is approved worldwide and has been proven in many studies to be effective and tolerable. Propecia causes less DHT to form from testosterone.
  • Minoxidil is probably the oldest proven hair restorer with or without supplemental additives. For the treatment of hair loss, it may only be used for external application.
  • hair tonic with up to 2% minoxidil content is available without prescription.
  • spironolactone in the form of hair tonic and in combination with minoxidil can be used for external application.
  • Spironolactone acts as an androgen receptor blocker, ie. the binding of DHT to the hair follicles is prevented.
  • cosmetic agents to be used according to the invention which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hair root stabilizing substances, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole.
  • a preferred form of preparation of the hair treatment agent according to the invention takes place in the form of hair tonics or hair lotions. These preferably contain at least one monohydric alcohol, a purine and / or a purine derivative, at least one oligonucleotide, optionally a gelling agent and optionally at least one specific care enhancer.
  • Another object of the present invention is a hair treatment composition containing
  • Particularly preferred is a hair treatment agent containing
  • compositions used according to the invention contain from 0.1 to 90% by weight of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group of ethanol, n-propanol, isoporopanol, n-butanol. Among these, ethanol and / or isopropanol are particularly preferred.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 85% by weight, preferably from 1 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 75% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 70 Wt .-% and in particular 25 to 60 wt .-% ethanol and / or isopropanol.
  • hair treatment agents contain only ethanol.
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention which - based on their weight - 5 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 7.5 to 70 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10 to 60 wt .-%, more preferably 20 to 55 wt .-% and in particular 25 to 50 wt .-% ethanol, more preferably.
  • the agents used according to the invention may additionally contain a gelling agent.
  • a gelling agent By using these gelling agents, the adhesion of the agents to the hair can be improved and the application can be made more pleasant.
  • Hair-treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred here which, based on their weight, contain 0.15 to 9% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7% by weight, more preferably 0, From 3 to 6% by weight and in particular from 0.4 to 5% by weight of at least one gelling agent from the groups of silicic acids and / or layered silicates and / or organophosphorus silicates and / or metal soaps and / or hardened castor oil and / or modified fatty derivatives and / or polyamides and / or hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) and / or carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) and / or hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC) and / or hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC) and / or
  • the agents used according to the invention in particular also the hair lotions and / or hair tonics according to the invention, may contain emulsifiers (F).
  • the agents used according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F). Protection is sought or protection can be sought for emulsifier-containing agents to be used in the present invention; Emulsifiers contribute to the technical aim of the invention and thus to the solution of the technical problem underlying the application according to the invention.
  • emulsifiers the amounts in which they are contained in compositions according to the invention are disclosed in priority document DE 102009044976 on pages 44 to 46, the features mentioned there are clearly implicit in describing the invention contained in the filed application and thus to the disclosure content of this application ,
  • an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I).
  • the UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone
  • water-insoluble UV filters are those which dissolve in water at not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight, at 20 ° C. Furthermore, these compounds should be soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%). The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention. According to another embodiment of the Invention are those UV filters are preferred which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary Ammoniunnou. These UV filters have the general structure U - Q.
  • the structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group.
  • This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function ,
  • Compounds from which the structural part U can be derived are, for example, substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.
  • the structural parts U can in principle be selected so that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be both in the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the structural part U also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably selected so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
  • the structural part Q preferably contains, as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group.
  • This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, especially an alkylene group of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a compound between the structural portion U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • the group Q has the general structure - (CH 2 ) ⁇ -N + R 1 R 2 R 3 X " , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R 1 and R 2 independently of one another represent
  • x preferably represents the number 3
  • Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid-trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ® HP 610).
  • the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters.
  • the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.
  • the UV filters (I) are contained in the compositions according to the invention usually in amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.
  • the UV filters in the compositions used according to the invention improve the results of the repigmentation process, especially in the long term, and are therefore particularly suitable. More preferably, at least one of the aforementioned UV filters is combined with at least one homo G polymer of 12 to 22 nucleotides and phosphodiester bond and theophylline or at least one homo G polymer of 12 to 22 nucleotides and phosphorothioate linkage and theophylline.
  • the agents used in the invention may further contain a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J).
  • a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups.
  • the sodium salt is most preferred.
  • the amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5, and in particular from 0.1 to 3,% by weight.
  • compositions used according to the invention may also contain plant extracts (L).
  • plant extracts usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon are especially suitable for the use according to the invention.
  • alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water.
  • the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
  • mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts may be preferable to use mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts in the compositions used according to the invention.
  • the agents used according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M).
  • M penetration aids and / or swelling agents
  • M include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1,
  • Another object of the present invention is a method for influencing the natural pigmentation process of the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular stimulation of the natural pigmentation process, in particular melanogenesis and / or pigmentation of the hair, to prevent and / or reduce hair graying and / or to repigmentate grayed hair, characterized in that a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative with at least one oligonucleotide, topically with hair and / or skin in contact brings.
  • the ligands involved in melanogenesis such as SCF or alpha-MSH (melanocyte stimulating hormone alpha) bind to various receptors, by which the corresponding signal is transmitted to the cell interior.
  • the receptor for SCF is ckit
  • the receptor for alpha-MSH is MCR-1 (melanocortin receptor 1).
  • MCR-1 melanocortin receptor 1
  • GpIOO is a protein that occurs in the membrane of melanosomes and stabilizes them. Since melanin is increasingly produced in the cells after the application of substances that have a positive influence on melanogenesis, there is an increase in the number of melanosomes required for transport. A substance that induces gene expression of gp100 is therefore a pigment stimulating agent.
  • Particularly preferred substances which stimulate the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, in particular hair or hair follicles, are those which both cause gene expression of MCR-1 and / or ckit and also induce gene expression of gp100.
  • the determination of the extent of the change in gene expression after administration of such substances to suitable cells / cell systems / tissue cultures can provide information about the effectiveness of the active ingredient.
  • RNA from the organotypic cell cultures is first isolated with the aid of the RNeasy Mini Kit from Qiagen and transcribed into cDNA by means of reverse transcription.
  • the formation of the PCR products is detected online via a fluorescence signal.
  • the fluorescence signal is proportional to the amount of the PCR product formed. The stronger the Expression of a particular gene, the greater the amount of PCR product produced and the higher the fluorescence signal.
  • the untreated control is set equal to 1 and the expression of the genes to be determined referred to (x-fold expression). Values greater than or equal to 1.8 times the expression or less than or equal to 0.5 times the expression of the untreated control are classified as significantly differentially expressed. Values greater than or equal to 1.5-fold expression or less than or equal to 0.7-fold expression of the untreated control are considered to tend to be differentially expressed.
  • gp100 In addition to the induction of gene expression, translation into the corresponding proteins is also important for influencing cellular mechanisms.
  • the expression of gp100 was therefore additionally detected at the protein level by Western Blot technique.
  • the protein expression of gp100 could be induced compared to the untreated control.
  • Melanin is a dye that is produced and stored in the melanosomes of melanocytes. Melanin gives the hair its true color, whereby the coloration is produced by a mixture of two types of melanin, eu- and pheomelanin. Melanogenesis is a complicated and often regulated synthesis process. First, tyrosine is converted by the enzyme tyrosinase into L-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA) and then through several intermediate steps in the various melanin pigments.
  • L-DOPA L-dihydroxyphenylalanine
  • An active agent which positively influences melanogenesis and leads to an increased melanin content in hair follicle melanocytes is particularly suitable for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, preventing hair graying and / or stimulating pigmentation.
  • Table 3 Melanin content in isolated hair follicles after treatment with a 12G nucleic acid.
  • the melanin content of the cultured hair follicles could be easily induced compared to the untreated control

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Abstract

L'invention concerne l'utilisation d'une combinaison de purine et/ou d'un dérivé de purine et d'au moins un oligonucléotide pour influencer le processus de pigmentation naturel de la peau et/ou des phanères.
EP10734959A 2009-07-23 2010-07-13 Utilisation de purine et/ou d'un dérivé de purine et d'au moins un oligonucléotide pour influencer le processus de pigmentation naturel Withdrawn EP2473236A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102009027959 2009-07-23
DE102009044976A DE102009044976A1 (de) 2009-07-23 2009-09-24 Verwendung von Purin und/oder einem Purinderivat und mindestens einem Oligonukleotid zur Beeinflussung des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses
PCT/EP2010/060029 WO2011009758A2 (fr) 2009-07-23 2010-07-13 Utilisation de purine et/ou d'un dérivé de purine et d'au moins un oligonucléotide pour influencer le processus de pigmentation naturel

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DE102009044976A1 (de) 2009-07-23 2011-01-27 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verwendung von Purin und/oder einem Purinderivat und mindestens einem Oligonukleotid zur Beeinflussung des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses
DE102010043069A1 (de) 2010-10-28 2012-05-03 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verwendung von Purin und/oder einem Purinderivat und mindestens einer Aminosäure zur Beeinflussung des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses
DE102011077950A1 (de) 2011-06-22 2012-01-19 Henkel Kgaa Verwendung von Purin und/oder einem Purinderivat zur Verminderung von zellulärem oxidativen Stress
DE102011079453A1 (de) 2011-07-20 2012-04-12 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verwendung von Biochinonen zur Verminderung von zellulärem oxidativen Stress
EP4292581A1 (fr) 2022-06-16 2023-12-20 Bella Aurora Labs, S.A. Composition de repigmentation capillaire

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