EP2388360B1 - Yarn for sewing or embroiding - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a sewing thread or embroidery thread having the features of the preamble of patent claim 1.

Sewing or embroidery threads can be made of different materials. For example, yarns are known which consist exclusively of synthetic fibers or exclusively of natural fibers. Also known are yarns which, in addition to natural fibers, also comprise a proportion of synthetic fiber, such yarns also being referred to as blended yarns in practice and subsequently so. Such a blended yarn is constructed, for example, as core yarn and has a core of multifilament polyester fibers and a cotton wound over.

To prepare the above-described synthetic fiber-containing yarns, which are pure synthetic fibers or blended yarns, are preferably used as synthetic fibers Polyester fibers, whether as a staple fiber or as a multifilament fiber, used, these polyester fibers are created specifically for the production of yarns from a corresponding polyester melt in a primary spinning process. In particular, this polyester melt consists of polyethylene terephthalate having a predetermined molecular weight or having a predetermined molecular weight distribution. Here one differentiates between the textile polyester fiber and the technical, also high-strength named polyester fiber, which are to be distinguished on the basis of the intrinsic viscosity measured by a standard method. This intrinsic viscosity is for the textile polyester fiber in the order of between 0.5 dl / g and 0.75 dl / g, preferably in the order of between 0.5 dl / g and 0.63 dl / g, and for the technical , high strength polyester fiber between about 0.75 dl / g and 0.95 dl / g, each measured as the corresponding polymer solution in dichloroacetic acid at 25 ° C. For these polyester fibers used as starting material, the experts, especially the sewing thread manufacturers, consider that it is necessary for the reproducible production of sewing threads to use starting materials which have certain predetermined properties not exceeding a specified limit, in particular certain maximum tensile strengths, maximum tensile strengths and tenacity have to have, in order to arrive at a reproducible sewing or embroidery thread that the extreme requirements when sewing or embroidering, in particular when machine sewing or embroidering, is sufficient.

Due to the decreasing situation in the raw materials sector and the increase in the use of polymeric consumer materials made of polyester, especially disposable containers and preferably bottles, which are usually collected centrally after use but no longer refilled, the technical problem arises polymeric utility materials not only thermally, ie as an additive to waste incineration, to recycle and thus to incinerate, but to provide for this a further recovery.

The JP-A 2000 160429 describes a yarn in which, in the context of primary spinning, a proportion of recycled polyester is added to the polyethylene terephthalate starting material used for this purpose in order to spin a multifilament polyester yarn therefrom. The yarn thus spun is stretched and is intended to be used as a sewing thread, but further structural details of this known sewing thread are not described.

The WO-A-2005/007944 describes a yarn having a proportion of polyester fibers spun from recycled material in the primary spinning process. Due to the construction of the known yarn this is not suitable to be used as sewing or embroidery thread. Neither the JP-A 2000 160429 still the WO-A-2005/007944 mention average molecular weights or CIELab whiteness of the polyester fibers made from the recycled polyester.

The present invention has for its object to provide a polyester fiber-containing sewing or embroidery yarn using polyester fibers made of recycled polyester with excellent mechanical and technological properties and a perfect dyeing available.

This object is achieved by a sewing or embroidery thread with the characterizing features of claim 1.

The sewing or embroidery yarn according to the invention, with at least one yarn portion of polyester fibers, which is also referred to as yarn in the following, has the construction of a twisted yarn, an air-twisted yarn or a core yarn, wherein the yarn at least 20 wt.% Made of recycled polyester Polyester fiber, based on the total content of polyester fibers in the yarn contains. Furthermore, the polyester fibers made of the recycled polyester have an average molecular weight between 68,000 and 82,000, determined by Gel permeation chromatography, and a CIELab whiteness between 70 and 30.

In other words, a part of the commonly used textile or high-strength polyester fiber, namely at least 20% by weight thereof, is replaced by such polyester fibers made from recycled polyester, currently being used as a main source for the production of these recycled polyester-made polyester fibers hereinafter also referred to as recycled polyester fibers for brevity, and the aforementioned polymeric polyester-containing utility materials, especially polyethylene terephthalate bottles. With the previously quantified CIELab whiteness, the yarns according to the invention can surprisingly be dyed even in a very high proportion of recycled polyester fibers in very light shades, without this hue or color depth differences between recycled polyester fiber content and conventionally produced polyester fiber content can be seen. Nor could it be ascertained that color fastness differences between these two fiber proportions were detectable. Even after extremely long exposure times, no color differences or authenticity differences occurred between the two fiber components.

Depending on the particular construction of the sewing or embroidery yarn according to the invention, the invention proposed recycled polyester fiber may be either a staple fiber having a predetermined staple fiber length or an endless multifilament recycled polyester fiber. A textile polyester fiber is in particular such a staple or multifilament fiber whose intrinsic viscosity is between 0.5 dl / g and 0.75 dl / g, in particular 0.5 dl / g and 0.63 dl / g, while preferably the Intrinsic viscosities of a high strength polyester fiber, be it a multifilament fiber or a fiber yarn, are between 0.75 dl / g and 0.95 dl / g, each measured as corresponding polymer solutions in dichloroacetic acid at 25 ° C.

By way of clarification, it is pointed out that the average molecular weight (weight-average molecular weight) is determined as specified below in the exemplary embodiments.

The yarn according to the invention has a number of advantages. Thus, it should first be noted that the proportionate or exclusive use of the recycled polyester fiber in the yarn according to the invention makes sense to save raw materials, in particular under environmental aspects, and thus to reuse them particularly economically. Surprisingly, however, it has been found by those skilled in the art that the recycled polyester fiber contained in the yarn according to the invention contains at least 20% by weight compared to the likewise present ones non-recycled polyester fibers stained identically in terms of hue and color depth, in which case it was sometimes necessary to apply the dyeing process to each of them, in particular by reducing the heating rate to the different polyester fiber provenances used in the inventive yarn (recycled polyester fibers and conventionally produced polyester fibers) to adjust color shade to be dyed. Although the recycled polyester fiber sometimes has a whiteness lower than the whiteness of a conventionally produced polyester fiber depending on the origin of the polyester-containing raw material to be recycled, the color of the sewing or embroidery yarn of the present invention can also be bright without causing hue or color depth differences between the individual fiber portions of the yarn according to the invention were recognizable, provided that the aforementioned CIEBLab whiteness is maintained. Even in those embodiments of the yarn of the present invention, which were characterized by a high proportion of recycled polyester fibers or whose total polyester fiber content consisted solely of recycled polyester fibers, sewing or embroidery yarns to be processed properly could be produced, although in this case predetermined and for the production of sewing or embroidery threads had fallen below the required maximum tensile strength, maximum tensile strength or tenacity values. Furthermore, the invention allows sewing or Embroidery yarn by varying the ratio of recycled polyester fiber content to conventionally produced polyester fiber content (ie, polyester fibers not made from recycled polyester), desired mechanical-technological limits (eg, for ultimate tensile strength, ultimate tensile elongation, abrasion resistance, or tenacity), or desirable dyeing behavior, and the like resulting fastnesses set so far to the respective requirements of the yarn according to the invention.

In a first embodiment of the yarn according to the invention, this yarn comprises between 100% by weight and 25% by weight, in particular between 95% by weight and 50% by weight, of the polyester fibers produced from the recycled polyester, in each case based on the total proportion of polyester fibers in the yarn , on. The above-described high values between 100% by weight and 95% by weight of recycled polyester fibers are preferably always provided in the yarn according to the invention even if it is a mixed yarn and contains other fibers in addition to polyester fibers, in particular cotton fibers or polyamide fibers. Values between 95% by weight and 50% by weight of recycled polyester fibers preferably comprise those embodiments of the yarn according to the invention which are exclusively made of polyester fibers and thus recycled Polyester fibers and conventionally produced polyester fibers exist.

A further embodiment of the yarn according to the invention suggests that the sewing or embroidery yarn according to the invention is a total of a polyester fiber yarn. In this case, this embodiment may preferably be constructed as a single, double or triple thread and has a proportion of recycled polyester fibers which varies between 100% by weight and 25% by weight, in particular between 95% by weight and 50% by weight ,

In a particularly advantageous development of the yarn according to the invention, the polyester fibers produced from the recycled polyester have an average molecular weight between 72,000 and 78,000, determined by gel permeation chromatography. Here, it has surprisingly been found that such recycled polyester fiber material limited in the above scope in terms of the average molecular weight covers a wide range of applications in the production of sewing and embroidery yarns, the sewing or embroidery yarns thus produced acceptable processing and service properties, in particular strengths , Sewing or embroidery behavior and / or color fastness, have.

In particular, when the polyester fibers produced from the recycled polyester a concentration of polyolefins between 0.1 ppm and 50 ppm and / or a concentration of polyvinyl chlorides between 0.1 ppm and 100 ppm and / or a concentration of other impurities, preferably metallic and / or cellulosic impurities between 0.1 ppm and 80 ppm, such an embodiment of the yarn according to the invention has both the aforementioned desired mechanical and technological properties as well as the previously mentioned staining behavior and the resulting good fastness to a particular extent.

As already stated above, the yarn according to the invention is a sewing thread. Thus, a first embodiment of the sewing thread according to the invention provides that the sewing thread consists of twisted polyester multifilaments containing from 100% by weight to 25% by weight, in particular from 95% by weight to 50% by weight, of such polyester multifilaments prepared from recycled polyester are. Furthermore, this embodiment of the sewing yarn according to the invention has a tenacity of at least 35 cN / tex, in particular of at least 45 cN / tex, wherein the twine is preferably a double twine or a triple twine. Such an embodiment of the sewing yarn according to the invention can be used excellently for manifold sewing operations and is characterized in particular by a large seam length without occurrence of thread breaks.

In a second embodiment of the sewing yarn according to the invention this is also constructed as a twist, but in this case this twine consists of polyester fiber yarns with the proportions of recycled polyester fiber yarns listed above. In this case, the finished polyester fiber yarn twine has in particular a tenacity of at least 30 cN / tex, preferably of at least 40 cN / tex, whereby this twine is constructed in particular as a double or triple twine with excellent sewing properties.

A third embodiment of the yarn according to the invention is constructed as a twisted core yarn and in particular has a tenacity of at least 30 cN / tex, in particular of at least 35 cN / tex. Depending on whether the recycled polyester multifilament yarn forms the core in such a core yarn construction, or a recycled polyester fiber yarn represents the lap, the tenacity of the finished sewing yarn varies. When the recycled polyester multifilament yarn forms the core, the tenacity of such an embodiment tends to be in the range of between 30 cN / tex and 35 cN / tex, whereas in such a design, the recycled one Accordingly, in a standard multifilament textile fiber as a core material, the tenacity between 30 cN / tex and 50 cN / tex and for a standard high tenacity multifilament fiber core material the tenacity between 45 cN / tex and 70 cN / tex.

In a fourth embodiment of the sewing yarn according to the invention this consists of air-textured yarns, in particular high-turned single to quadruple yarns, wherein the air-textured yarns have a tenacity of at least 30 cN / tex, in particular of at least 35 cN / tex. Even with such an air-textured sewing thread, the concrete strength depends on whether the inner pillar material or the outer overlay, which has the bow and loop design produced by the swirling, is made of recycled polyester multifilament fiber. Should only the overlay of these recycled polyester multifilament fibers be partially or completely formed, the tenacity depends almost predominantly, ie about 85% to 95%, on the tenacity of the core material, in particular the multifilament, conventional textile or high-tenacity polyester core material. In this case, the tenacity varies between 35 cN / tex and 50 cN / tex (for textile multifiles Polyester core material) or between 50 cN / tex to 70 cN / tex (for technically high-strength multifilament polyester core material). If, on the other hand, the sewing thread according to the invention has a core made from a recycled multifilament polyester fiber, such an embodiment has a tenacity which varies between 30 cN / tex and 45 cN / tex, in particular between 35 cN / tex and 43 cN / tex.

A fifth embodiment of a sewing thread according to the invention, which is used in particular in the field of underwear and for stitching hems, provides that in this case the sewing thread is a bulked multifilament yarn, in particular a single or double sewing yarn, and a tenacity of at least 20 cN / tex, in particular of at least 25 cN / tex and preferably between 30 cN / tex and 40 cN / tex. Since such a sewing thread is not particularly demanding in terms of strength and preferably with regard to the seam strength, the tenacity of the thread preferably varies between 23 cN / tex and 35 cN / tex. These requirements for tenacity also apply regardless of the design for embroidery threads.

In order to be able to identify the yarn according to the invention with regard to its manufacturer or its composition, ie its quantitative proportions of recycled polyester fibers, a further development of the yarn according to the invention provides that on the yarn is provided a processing properties improving Avivage, which is arranged predominantly on the surface of the yarn, wherein the Avivage contains at least one additional, detectable by chemical and / or physical methods component that allows the aforementioned identification.

Surprisingly, it has been found that by this at least one additional component, which is provided in the finish of the yarn according to the invention and preferably homogeneously distributed there, no increase in the Avivageabriebes or mechanical-technological properties or the dyeing or color fastness is caused, even then not if this at least one additional component is an insoluble pigment in the finish. In this case, the term chemical and / or physical methods covers all detection methods which, depending on the chemical structure of the selected at least one additional component, allow a qualitative and / or quantitative detection of these at least one component.

Suitable detection methods include not only classical, wet-chemical detection methods, but also physicochemical methods, such as, for example, spectroscopic methods, atomic absorption spectroscopy, X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy, mass spectroscopy, infrared measurements, UV measurements, Measurements of the magnetism as well as measurements of the ad or absorption behavior, in particular of light. It is particularly suitable in this case if these physical-chemical methods can be carried out directly on the yarn according to the invention, without it being necessary for this purpose to detach the finishing agent from the yarn by means of corresponding extraction methods and to subsequently isolate it.

With regard to the concentration in which the at least one additional further component is present in the finish of the yarn according to the invention, it is generally stated that this concentration depends on which additional at least one component is involved. In general, such components, which are very easily detectable even in low concentrations, the concentration of these at least one component in the lubricant is set relatively low, while those components for whose detection a greater concentration of components is required, the relevant Avivage, which is provided on the yarn according to the invention, has a correspondingly high concentration, wherein a preferred concentration range of the at least one additional component varies between 100 ppm and 3%, based on the weight of the finish.

Regarding the nature of the at least one additional component, which is provided in the finish of the yarn according to the invention, there are several possibilities.

Thus, a first possibility that in this case the at least one component is a colored component, wherein the term colored component is not limited only to the color at the wavelength of visible light but in particular also includes the UV range and thus fluorescent, phosphorescent and / or luminescent components covers.

In addition to the colored component described above or instead of this colored component, as a second possibility the finishing agent provided on the yarn according to the invention may contain such a component which comprises a metal oxide, a sulfide and / or an oxide sulfide and in particular an oxide, a sulfide and / or or a rare earth oxide-sulfide, which components are particularly present as components insoluble in the finish.

In a third, likewise advantageous possibility, the component is formed by a metal, in particular a magnetic metal, and / or a metal mixture, this metal or this metal mixture then alternatively or additionally to the above-mentioned colored component (first possibility) and / or the metal oxide, metal sulfide and / or metal oxide sulphide (second possibility) is present in the finish of the yarn according to the invention.

It is particularly advantageous if the yarn according to the invention has such a finish which comprises not just one component but a plurality of components of the type described above, whereby by variation of the concentration, the chemical nature of the component and the number of components then each yarn finished with it is correspondingly with the result that a falsification of this coding is almost impossible, in particular if a coding based thereon is customer-specific and / or modified after a predetermined time has elapsed. The particular advantage of such a marked yarn according to the invention is that based on the processed in the respective part yarn then the part itself can be assigned to a particular manufacturer, so that thereby effectively and easily the product piracy can be combated. This is achieved to an increased degree by the fact that the at least one component added to the finish can be detected particularly easily and quickly on the surface of the processed yarn, which is true, for example, if this component also ad- ditions small amounts of light absorbs or causes or influences a magnetic field.

With regard to the concentration in which the yarn according to the invention has the previously mentioned finish, it should be noted that this concentration of the finish depends on the required mechanical and technological properties in the processing of the yarn. Usually, the softening concentration on the surface of the yarn varies between 1% by weight and 10% by weight, in particular between 2% by weight and 5% by weight.

When the sewing or embroidery yarn of the present invention is formed in the above-described constructions, the denier of such yarn varies preferably between 50 dtex and 500 dtex, and more preferably between 100 dtex and 250 dtex, while the filament count of such yarn component is between 16 and 64 ,

In principle, there are no limits with regard to the total titre in the yarn according to the invention, embodiments of the sewing or embroidery yarns according to the invention preferably being used whose total titers vary between 50 dtex and 1,500 dtex, in particular between 100 dtex and 1,000 dtex.

If the yarn according to the invention is formed as a multifilament yarn, it preferably has a total filament count of between 16 filaments and 300 filaments, in particular between 24 filaments and 100 filaments.

In particular, when the multifilament yarn according to the invention has a single filament denier which varies between 0.6 dtex and 6 dtex, preferably between 1.5 dtex and 4 dtex, such a yarn can be processed excellently and without disruption.

Furthermore, the present invention relates to a prefabricated part, this having at least one embroidery or sewing thread, as described above with reference to the yarn according to the invention. In particular, when the finish of such a yarn contains the above detailed at least one additional component which can be detected by chemical and / or physical methods, can be very quickly check on the basis of such a yarn, from which manufacturer this prefabricated part, so that so that product piracy can be counteracted very effectively. Here, the term prefabricated part covers not only clothing textiles but also made-up leather goods, such as handbags, suitcases, watch bands, belts and / or shoes, and also home textiles of any kind and furniture, whereby it is also possible technical textiles, such as seat belts, Airbags and / or protective clothing by means of the yarn according to the invention, whose finishing to identify the previously described additional component detectable by chemical and / or physical methods.

The term polyester used in this specification includes not only polyethylene terephthalate but also polybutylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate.

By way of clarification, it should be noted that the term "and / or" as used herein has the meaning that the individual elements in the corresponding enumeration are to be seen both as an additive and as an alternative, with at least two elements of the enumeration being combined in the additive designation are.

For the purposes of the present description, finishing means any substance applied for the processing and further processing of the yarn according to the invention. Preferred lubricants have as constituents (ingredients) one or more polysiloxanes, in particular one or more alkylpolysiloxanes, and / or at least one wax, wherein in the alkylpolysiloxanes the alkyl radical is present in particular as a saturated linear C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl radical.

In particular, the lubricant has in addition to the aforementioned polysiloxane or polysiloxanes and / or the wax or the growth furthermore a fatty acid, in particular a C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ fatty acid, a fatty acid derivative of C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ fatty acid and / or an emulsifier, wherein the term fatty acid derivative preferably also includes an alkali or alkaline earth metal salt and / or an ester , Preferably, the C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ fatty acid is not only a saturated fatty acid but also a linear saturated fatty acid, wherein in particular such embodiments contain an emulsifier, which can be used as aqueous dispersion or emulsion either after Badavivierung or by a spray method, preferably Room temperature, are applied to the yarn of the invention.

With regard to the emulsifier, it should be noted that any emulsifier capable of emulsifying the previously described constituents (constituents) of the finish is suitable for this purpose. In particular, the yarn according to the invention comprises such lubricants which contain an ethoxylated emulsifier as emulsifier, the degree of ethoxylation of the emulsifier preferably varying between 6 and 400.

It is particularly suitable if the yarn according to the invention contains such an emollient which contains as emulsifier an ethoxylated oil, preferably a castor oil ethoxylate.

It has already been stated above that preferred embodiments of the yarn according to the invention have such a finish which contains at least one wax as a constituent. These are in particular a paraffin wax, a micro wax and / or an ester wax, wherein the paraffin wax mainly a melting point between 50 ° C and 80 ° C, the microwax a melting point between 85 ° C and 95 ° C and the ester wax a Drop point between 70 ° C and 95 ° C, exhibit.

Depending on the particular yarn provided with the finish and depending on the use of the yarn of the invention, the viscosity of the polysiloxane, which is preferably a dimethylpolysiloxane, varies between 100 mPas and 15,000 mPas, in particular between 500 mPas and 8,000 mPas.

• 75 bis 95 Gew.% Dimethylpolysiloxan,
• 2 bis 10 Gew.% Paraffinwachs,
• 0 bis 5 Gew.% Mikrowachs,
• 0 bis 3 Gew.% Esterwachs,
• 0 bis 5 Gew.% gesättigte Fettsäuren,
• 1 bis 3 Gew.% Fettsäurederivate, insbesondere Fettsäure-Amin-Kondensate auf der Basis von gesättigten C₁₄-C₂₀-Fettsäuren und Alkanolaminen, und
• 0 bis 2 Gew.% Rhizinusöl-Ethoxilate

enthält. Ein derartig aviviertes Garn, dessen Avivage vorzugsweise die zuvor anhand der Viskosität spezifizierten Dimethylpolysiloxane, anhand der Schmelzpunkte spezifizierte Paraffin- und Mikrowachse bzw. anhand des Tropfpunktes spezifizierten Esterwachse, anhand ihres chemischen Aufbaus spezifizierten Fettsäuren und Fettsäurederivate sowie die vorstehend anhand des Ethoxilierungsgrades definierten Rhizinusöl-Emulgatoren enthält, zeichnet sich dadurch aus, daß insbesondere dieses Garn auch in unterschiedlichen Stärken und Konstruktionen einen geringen Avivageabrieb aufweist. Dementsprechend weist eine derartige Ausführung des erfindungsgemäßen Garnes in verstärktem Maße alle die Vorteile auf, wie sie vorstehend für das erfindungsgemäße Garn ausführlich beschrieben sind.An often applicable and very highly rated embodiment of the yarn according to the invention, which is provided on its surface with a lubricant, has such a finish on which between

• 75 to 95% by weight of dimethylpolysiloxane,
• 2 to 10% by weight paraffin wax,
• 0 to 5% by weight of microwax,
• 0 to 3% by weight of ester wax,
• 0 to 5% by weight of saturated fatty acids,
• 1 to 3% by weight of fatty acid derivatives, in particular fatty acid-amine condensates based on saturated C ₁₄ -C ₂₀ -fatty acids and alkanolamines, and
• 0 to 2% by weight of castor oil ethoxylates

contains. Such a finished yarn, whose finish preferably the dimethyl polysiloxanes specified above by the viscosity, paraffin and microwaxes specified by the melting points or ester waxes specified by the dropping point, fatty acids and fatty acid derivatives specified by their chemical structure and the castor oil emulsifiers defined above by the degree of ethoxylation contains, characterized by the fact that in particular this yarn has a low Avivageabrieb also in different strengths and constructions. Accordingly, such an embodiment of the yarn according to the invention to a greater extent all the advantages as described in detail above for the yarn according to the invention.

Advantageous developments of the yarn according to the invention are specified in the subclaims.

The invention will be explained in more detail with reference to embodiments.

embodiments Measurement of the average molecular weight

Of the respectively to be examined polyester fiber samples were 20 mg and transferred into a tight-fitting glass vial. 0.7 ml of hexafluoroisopropanol were added to this fiber sample. The sample was gently shaken and allowed to stand overnight. Thereafter, a displacement of the sample was carried out with chloroform until after addition of about 10 ml of chloroform, the initial onset of turbidity disappeared. The solution thus prepared was filtered by means of a disposable syringe via a 0.2 μ Teflon membrane filter into a sample vial. From this, 20 μl of each were subsequently injected into the gel permeation chromatography system.

The calibration was carried out using polystyrene standards in the M _w range from 1,180 to 400,000. For gel permeation chromatography, the following columns were used in series; Jordi DVB gel: 100, 1,000, 10,000 and 100,000 angstroms. The eluent was chloroform Chromasolv, 1 ml / min, detection was at 254 nm. A duplicate determination was made of each sample. With regard to the previously described method of measurement, it should be noted that this is the method which the Institute of Textile Chemistry and Chemical Fibers Denkendorf calls "ITCF house method - GPC of PES in chloroform". The results are shown in the table below. sample name M _w M _z number 1 96812 149986 95844 144106 No. 2 76607 113573 76578 114274 No. 3 74283 110011 73053 108500

In the above table, which gives the results of the duplicate determination for the different samples 1 to 3, M _{w means} the weight average molecular weight and M _z the centrifuge average molecular weight.

Under the designation Sample No. 1, a conventional polyester multifilament yarn, Type 712, supplier: Performance Fibers, Bad Hersfeld, was investigated.

Under the designation Sample No. 2, a polyester multifilament made of recycled polyester was used, which was used in Twine 1 and 3 described below.

Under the designation Sample No. 3, a polyester multifilament made of recycled polyester which has been used as the core material in the below-described coregarn 2 was examined.

Measurement of whiteness

• Anzahl der übereinander angeordneten Wickelschichten: 3 Lagen
• Transversalverschiebung während der Wicklung: 0,48 mm/Umdrehung
• Wickelgeschwindigkeit: 1.500 Umdrehungen/min
• Bewicklungsfläche: 3,5 cm x 4 cm

Wickelspannung, abhängig vom jeweils aufzuwickelnden Garn unter Berücksichtigung einer einwandfreien ParallelwicklungTo measure the degree of whiteness, the samples to be examined were wound in three layers in parallel winding on a winding card made of white cardboard in such a way that the surface of the winding card was completely covered by the parallel winding of the respective yarn to be examined three layers. The winding was carried out on a commercially available Multi Color Cardwinder Type 440 from Graf & Co. GmbH, Bad Tölz, under the following conditions:

• Number of superimposed winding layers: 3 layers
• Transverse displacement during winding: 0.48 mm / rev
• Winding speed: 1,500 revolutions / min
• Wrapping area: 3.5 cm x 4 cm

Winding tension, depending on the yarn to be wound, taking into account a perfect parallel winding

The whiteness of the thus produced winding of the respective yarn sample was determined on a conventional spectrophotometer with the type designation Spectraflash SF600 from Datacolor International, Dietlikon, Switzerland, in a wavelength range from 360 nm to 700 nm. For this purpose, the yarn windings produced as described above were fixed in a corresponding sample holder of the spectrophotometer and measured accordingly. The calibration was provided by a white ceramic tile provided by the manufacturer with a CIELab whiteness of 80. Using an internal calculation provided by the spectrophotometer, this value obtained with the ceramic tile was compared to the CIELab value for barium sulfate of whiteness 100, so that the whiteness data used in this text refer to the reference material barium sulphate.

All the yarns examined were not optically brightened, so that accordingly no UV components influence the stated CIELab whiteness. The following whiteness values could be determined, as shown in the following table.

Whiteness depending on the proportion of polyester fibers made from recycled polyester, based on the total percentage of polyester fibers in the yarn (in% by weight) Examined yarn Percentage of recycled multifilament polyester fiber in% by weight CIELab whiteness Yarn 1 0 81 Yarn 2 20 75 Yarn 3 40 69 Yarn 4 60 58 Yarn 5 80 51 Yarn 6 100 45

Yarns 2 to 6 differ only in their quantitative proportion of multifilament polyester fibers made from recycled polyester, while yarn 1 contained no proportion of multifilament polyester fibers made from recycled polyester. Rather, Yarn 1 was a polyester multifilament yarn, Type 712, supplier: Performance Fibers, Bad Hersfeld, as described above as Sample No. 1 in the average molecular weight determination. By way of clarification, it should be noted that the construction of yarns 1 to 6 were identical and differ only in their quantitative proportion as indicated in the table above of recycled multifilament polyester fiber, the yarn being 6 to 100% by weight of recycled multifilament polyester fiber duration. Yarn 2 is not according to the invention.

Examples 1 to 3

Three multifilament yarns, hereafter twisted yarn 1, twisted yarn 2 and twisted yarn 3, were produced according to a conventional twisting method in consideration of the technical details given below, wherein all three multifilament yarns consisted of polyester fibers made from 100% recycled polyester. The threads 1 and 2 are sewing threads, the thread 3 is an embroidery thread. Twists 1 to 3 had the following properties: Yarn reference Twine 1 Twisted 2 Thread 3 Fineness (dtex) 170x3 140x2 175x2 Maximum tensile force (cN) 1850 1490 1345 Maximum tensile strength elongation (%) 19 21 26 Yarn twist (t / m in the raw thread) S 670 S 640 S 635 Twisted twist (t / m in raw thread) Z 450 Z 580 Z 600 Tenacity (cN / tex) 36 53 38 Whiteness CIELab 43 48 45

For the sake of clarity, it should be noted that all whiteness statements on polyester fibers (multifilaments or spun yarns) made from recycled polyester refer to the claimed sewing or embroidery thread before being processed, unless expressly stated otherwise.

As a starting material for the manufacture of twisted yarn 1 and twisted yarn 3, a recycled polyester and recycled polyester spun polyester was used, while the starting material for making twisted yarn 2 was a high strength recycled polyester which was remelted after a failure in fiber production and has been primarily spun.

The results for the measurement of the average molecular weight of the material from which the thread 1 was made are shown above under the sample designation No. 2.

Of the above twists - Twine 1 and Twine 2, both of which were conceptualized as sewing threads, sewing performance was determined. The results are summarized in the table below. sewing operation Twine 1 Twisted 2 Zigzag, 150 cN (Fa / Fe) 0/0 0.33 / 0 Zigzag, 175 cN (Fa / Fe) 0/0 0.67 / 5 Backward, 150 cN (%) 82 100 Backwards, 200 cN (%) 74 100 Backwards, 250 cN (%) 70 100 Backward, 300 cN (%) 58 33

The term (Fa / Fe) used above in the table and also below represents the average of three tests each, where Fa indicates the mean values of the number of thread breaks and Fe the mean values of the number of missing stitches.

To determine this sewing performance, a modified industrial sewing machine, type Pfaff DOST sewing machine, grade 483-G-8 / 01-900 / 5 is used, with a stitch length of 5 stitches / cm, a stitching frequency of 5,000 stitches / min and a Needle system system 134 has been used. Two layers of a body are cut to 150 cm in the warp direction and sewn together on one side. The strip width is approximately 20 cm in the weft direction. Five stitches are made per unit and per span, sewn at a length of 750 cm or until the thread breaks.

For evaluation, the ratio of average seam length of all five seams to the total sewing length is determined and gives the reverse sewing properties of the respectively examined yarn, which is given in%. To exclude errors, the respective result is correlated to the values determined using a standard thread.

Examples 4 and 5

Two core yarns, hereinafter referred to as core yarn 1 and core yarn 2, were prepared by a conventional method in consideration of the technical details given below, both core yarns containing as the core material multifilament polyester fibers made from 100% recycled polyester. The wrapping of both core yarns consisted of a conventional polyester staple fiber. Coregarn 1 is not according to the invention. The core yarns 1 and 2 are designed as sewing threads and have the following properties: Yarn reference Coregarn 1 Coregarn 2 Fineness (dtex) 210 x 2 148x2 Maximum tensile force (cN) 1648 786 Maximum tensile strength elongation (%) 18 14 Yarn twist (t / m in the raw thread) S 770 S 1.015 Twisted twist (t / m in raw thread) Z 720 Z 970 Tenacity (cN / tex) 39 27 Whiteness CIELab 84 55 Percentage of recycled polyester fibers, based on the total percentage of polyester fibers in the yarn 68% by weight 60% by weight

As the starting material for the core of Coregarnes 2, a recycled polyester and recycled polyester spun polyester was used, while the starting material for making the core of coregarene 1 was a high strength recycled polyester that was remelted after a mis-production in fiber production and primary has been spun. The CIELab values for core yarn 1 and core yarn 2 given in the table above relate exclusively to the core material processed in these core yarns before being wound with the fiber yarn.

The results used to measure the average molecular weight of the core used for the core 2 and recycled Polyester-produced polyester multifilaments are reproduced above under the sample designation No. 3.

Of the above core yarns 1 and 2, both of which were conceptualized as sewing yarns, the sewing performance was determined as described above in Examples 1 to 3. The results are summarized in the table below. sewing operation Coregarn 1 Coregarn 2 Zigzag, 150 cN (Fa / Fe) 0/0 0.15 / 0.012 Zigzag, 175 cN (Fa / Fe) 0/0 0.34 / 0.23 Backward, 150 cN (%) 100 96 Backwards, 200 cN (%) 100 48 Backwards, 250 cN (%) 97 8th Backward, 300 cN (%) 73 4

Examples 6 and 7

Two bulking yarns, hereinafter called Bauschgarn 1 and Bauschgarn 2, were prepared by a conventional method taking into account the technical details given below, both bulking yarns consisting of 100% multifilament polyester fibers made from recycled polyester. The Bauschgarne 1 and 2 are designed as sewing threads and had the following properties: Yarn reference Building yarn 1 Bauschgarn 2 Fineness (dtex) 193 x 1 188x2 Maximum tensile force (cN) 703 1342 Maximum tensile strength elongation (%) 25 26 Number of ten-point points / m 10-20 10-20 Twisted twist (t / m in raw thread) P 85 Z 85 Tenacity (cN / tex) 36 36 Whiteness CIELab 45 48

As a starting material for both Bauschgarne a polyester bottles derived from recycled and re-spun primary polyester was used.

Claims (18)

1. A sewing or embroidery yarn having at least one yarn portion of polyester fibres, wherein the yarn has the structure of a plied yarn, an intermingled yarn or a core yarn and the yarn contains at least 20 wt.% of a polyester fibre made from recycled polyester, relative to the total portion of polyester fibres in the yarn, characterised in that the polyester fibres made from recycled polyester have an average molecular weight of between 68.000 and 82.000, determined by gel permeation chromatography, and a CIELab degree of whiteness between 70 and 30.
2. The yarn according to claim 1, characterised in that the yarn comprises between 100 wt.% and 25 wt.%, in particular between 95 wt.% and 50 wt.%, of the polyester fibres made from recycled polyester, in each case relative to the total portion of polyester fibres in the yarn.
3. The yarn according to claim 1 or 2, characterised in that the yarn overall is a polyester fibre yarn.
4. The yarn according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the polyester fibres made from recycled polyester have an average molecular weight between between 72.000 and 78.000, determined by gel permeation chromatography.
5. The yarn according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the polyester fibres made from recycled polyester have a concentration of polyolefines between 0,1 ppm and 50 ppm.
6. The yarn according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the polyester fibres made from recycled polyester have a concentration of polyvinyl chlorides between 0,1 ppm and 100 ppm.
7. The yarn according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the polyester fibres made from recycled polyester have a concentration of other impurities, in particular of metal impurities and/or cellulose impurities, between 0,1 ppm and 80 ppm.
8. The yarn according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the yarn is a sewing yarn and consists of twisted polyester multi-filaments and has a tenacity of at least 35 cN/tex, in particular of at least 45 cN/tex.
9. The yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterised in that the yarn is a sewing yarn and consists of twisted polyester fibre yarns and has a tenacity of at least 30 cN/tex, in particular of at least 40 cN/tex.
10. The yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterised in that the yarn is a sewing yarn and consists of twisted core yarns and has a tenacity of at least 30 cN/tex, in particular of at least 35 cN/tex.
11. The yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterised in that the yarn is a sewing yarn and consists of air-textured yarns, in particular highly twisted single-ply to four-ply yarns, wherein the air-textured yarns have a tenacity of at least 30 cN/tex, in particular of at least 35 cN/tex.
12. The yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterised in that the yarn is a bulked multifilament sewing yarn, in particular a single or a double sewing yarn, having a tenacity of at least 20 cN/tex, in particular of at least 25 cN/tex and preferably between 30 cN/tex and 40 cN/tex.
13. The yarn according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that a lubricant which improves the processing properties is provided on the yarn, the lubricant being predominantly disposed on the surface of the yarn, wherein the lubricant contains at least one additional component which can be detected by chemical and/or physical methods to identify the manufacturer of the yarn or its composition.
14. The yarn according to claim 13, characterised in that the lubricant comprises the component in a concentration between 100 ppm and 3%, relative to the weight of the lubricant.
15. The yarn according to any one of claims 13 or 14, characterised in that the component is a coloured component.
16. The yarn according to any one of claims 13 or 14, characterised in that the component is a metal oxide, in particular an oxide, a sulphide and/or an oxide-sulphide of the rare earths.
17. The yarn according to any one of claims 13 or 14, characterised in that the component is a metal, in particular a magnetic metal, and/or a metal mixture.
18. A ready-made part, characterised in that the part comprises at least one embroidery or sewing yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 17.