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EP2221403B1 - Multi-part yarn and leg clothing produced from the same - Google Patents

Multi-part yarn and leg clothing produced from the same Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2221403B1
EP2221403B1 EP09013999A EP09013999A EP2221403B1 EP 2221403 B1 EP2221403 B1 EP 2221403B1 EP 09013999 A EP09013999 A EP 09013999A EP 09013999 A EP09013999 A EP 09013999A EP 2221403 B1 EP2221403 B1 EP 2221403B1
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European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarn
component
yam
components
staple fiber
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EP09013999A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP2221403A1 (en
Inventor
Klaus Dr. Meier
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KUNERT Fashion GmbH and Co KG
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KUNERT Fashion GmbH and Co KG
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Publication of EP2221403A1 publication Critical patent/EP2221403A1/en
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/38—Threads in which fibres, filaments, or yarns are wound with other yarns or filaments, e.g. wrap yarns, i.e. strands of filaments or staple fibres are wrapped by a helically wound binder yarn
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/16—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam
    • D02G1/161—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam yarn crimping air jets
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/18—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by combining fibres, filaments, or yarns, having different shrinkage characteristics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02J—FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
    • D02J1/00—Modifying the structure or properties resulting from a particular structure; Modifying, retaining, or restoring the physical form or cross-sectional shape, e.g. by use of dies or squeeze rollers
    • D02J1/08—Interlacing constituent filaments without breakage thereof, e.g. by use of turbulent air streams
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a multicomponent yarn consisting of at least two components and to a knitted article of knitwear made of such a yarn.
  • Under garment are understood all garments that are used to dress the foot or leg, including tights, socks, stockings, booties and the like.
  • DIN EN ISO 12945 and DIN EN ISO 12947 contain guidelines for determining the inclination of textile fabrics for lint formation on the surface and the tendency to pill or for determining the abrasion resistance of textile fabrics.
  • the determination The Pill inclination and the abrasion resistance is carried out according to the explained in these DIN sheets so-called Martindale method. In this case, a round sample with a defined force in the form of a Lissajous figure is moved over a friction surface or a scouring agent. The lint and pilling is checked by visual assessment after a set number of pills, while the abrasion resistance of the fabric is determined from the assessment of the area change.
  • a two-component multicomponent yarn is known, of which a first component comprises a synthetic textured filament yarn and a second component is constructed of a spun staple fiber yarn of synthetic or natural fibers, the two components being twisted together to form a twisted yarn.
  • a multi-component yarn in which the filament yarn is made of polyester and the staple fiber yarn of wool.
  • An indication of a particular suitable for socks or general leg clothing multi-component yarn is not found.
  • FR-A-1193060 describes a multi-component yarn containing two each consisting of a synthetic textured filament yarn first yarn components and a second yarn component of a spun staple fiber yarn.
  • the present invention seeks to provide a Mehrkomponentengarn processed in textile fabrics, especially legwear pieces of knitwear, is characterized in that the fabric thus produced combines a particularly high abrasion resistance with very low Pilling tendency.
  • the novel multicomponent yarn is composed of a first component comprising or consisting of at least one synthetic textured filament yarn and at least one second component consisting of a spun staple fiber yarn.
  • the first component is a air-blown textured filament yarn.
  • the two components have a similar fineness and optical structure and are twisted together to form a twisted staple yarn of similar optics.
  • the filament yarn consists at least partially of polyamide.
  • the staple fiber yarn may consist of a mixture of different natural fibers and synthetic fibers.
  • the staple fiber yarn consists at least partially of viscose. Surprisingly, it has been found that by knitting an air-textured yarn made of polyamide with a viscose staple yarn, a knitted fabric can be produced which, even after 5000 rubs in the pilling test, practically no Pilling formation has, however, in the chafing test, even at 6000 tours is not worn through.
  • the air-textured yarn after FIG. 1 consists of a number of endless synthetic filaments and has a substantially closed package from which project more or less large filament loops or loops. These filament loops or loops are distributed at irregular intervals along the surface and partially designed to be self-intersecting. This results in a spun yarn similar structure as the comparison with the staple fiber yarn FIG. 2 shows conspicuously. While in the staple fiber yarn from the package protruding fiber parts in the vast majority have open ends, the air-textured yarn, as mentioned, no protruding free fiber ends, but closed loops or loops exist that have a similar "hairiness" or bulkiness as in cause a staple fiber yarn. By using appropriately selected filament and staple fiber materials and grades, it is possible to achieve that an air-blast-textured yarn and staple fiber yarn have an optically similar structure.
  • the properties of the new yarn are improved with increasing number of turns in the twisting.
  • the number of turns is between 300 and 800 T / m, with a range between 550 and 650 T / m being particularly prominent. It is essential in any case that the staple yarn component is twisted with the air-textured component and not wound. That is, both yarn components must be firmly bonded together and appear on the outside of the multicomponent yarn so that the property of the fiber materials forming the two components combine to produce the surprising combination effect of having a very low pilling tendency with high abrasion resistance ,
  • the mass-based proportions of the two components in the multicomponent yarn are, as has been shown, advantageously in a range between 65/35 and 50/50, but deviating proportions are conceivable.
  • both the filament component and the staple fiber component make up the larger or smaller proportion, depending on which demands are placed on the knitted fabric in which the new multicomponent yarn is knitted.
  • the two components are, as mentioned, so twisted together that the fibers of both components act on the outside of the multi-component yarn. This ensures that the appearance of the multi-component yarn forming twine corresponds to that of a normal Stapelfasergarns. This is in contrast to the so-called high bulk yarns, such as those made in various designs by air blast texturing and used for various purposes.
  • Yarns made from these multicomponent yarns had excellent rub resistance. They were not worn through in the abrasion test at 6000 tours in the Martindale device.
  • Knitted fabrics from the multicomponent yarns 1 and 3 also gave excellent pilling properties, because even after 5,000 rubs in the pilling test virtually no pilling formation occurred.
  • the yarn 2 showed very good pilling properties which were slightly lower than those of the yarns 1, 3.
  • Socks made from these yarns are characterized by their high wearing comfort. They were considered by climbers to be climatically balanced, i. H. felt dry to the touch without feeling cold and sweating. The socks show only a slight crease tendency and also have a good suitability for piece dyeing.
  • Synthetic fiber material for use in the staple fiber component may include, in addition to viscose, acetates, lyocell, cupro, polyamide, polyester, polypropylene, polyacrylic, etc., or a blend of these fiber materials.
  • the fiber material of the filament yarn component may comprise, in addition to polyamide filaments, also polyester, polypropylene, polyacrylic, polyurethane etc. or mixtures of these filamentary materials with one another.
  • Staple fiber yarn of viscose fiber material is in a special quality, which can be used for the new component yarn with advantage under the trade name Tencel ® Lenzing AG in the trade.
  • the new multicomponent yarn can basically be used for the production of any textile fabrics, in particular crocheted fabrics, where high abrasion resistance and low pilling tendency are important.
  • a moisture-absorbent staple fiber material for example viscose or cotton
  • a balanced moisture balance is added, which increases the wearing comfort in a surprising manner.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Fluid Mechanics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

The multi-component yarn is formed using synthetic textured filament yarn containing two components of a spin-rotated staple fiber yarn, where one of the components is an air blow-textured filament yarn. The components exhibit comparable fineness and structure within predetermined limits. The components of similar optical characteristics are twisted with one another by production of a twisted yarn with the staple fiber yarn. The staple fiber yarn is a tencel(RTM: cellulose fiber) yarn or contains tencel(RTM: cellulose fiber) yarn.

Description

Die Erfindung betrifft ein aus zumindest zwei Komponenten bestehendes Mehrkomponentengarn und ein aus einem solchen Garn hergestelltes Beinbekleidungsstück aus Maschenware. Unter Beinbekleidungsstück sind dabei alle Kleidungsstücke verstanden, die zur Bekleidung des Fußes oder Beines dienen, einschließlich Strumpfhosen, Socken, Strümpfe, Füßlinge und dergleichen.The invention relates to a multicomponent yarn consisting of at least two components and to a knitted article of knitwear made of such a yarn. Under garment are understood all garments that are used to dress the foot or leg, including tights, socks, stockings, booties and the like.

Es ist bekannt, dass beispielsweise Socken oder Strümpfe im Gebrauch einerseits sehr hohen Beanspruchungen ausgesetzt sind, andererseits aber dem Träger möglichst hohen Tragekomfort vermitteln sollen. Zu diesem Tragekomfort trägt ein sogenanntes trockenes Tragegefühl bei, bei dem der Träger möglichst kein Schwitzen oder Frieren am Bein oder Fuß verspürt, sondern das Beinbekleidungsstück als "klimatisch ausgewogen" empfindet. Ein Gefühl des Frierens oder Schwitzens kommt insbesondere durch Schweißabsonderung und mangelnde Feuchtigkeitsaufnahme des Beinbekleidungsstücks sowie dadurch zustande, dass dieses Mängel hinsichtlich der Luftdurchlässigkeit zeigt.It is known that, for example, socks or stockings in use, on the one hand, are exposed to very high stresses, but on the other hand, they are intended to convey the wearer the highest possible wearing comfort. This wearing comfort contributes to a so-called dry wearing feeling in which the wearer feels as possible no sweating or freezing on the leg or foot, but feels the leg clothing as "climatically balanced". A feeling of freezing or sweating is caused, in particular, by perspiration and lack of moisture absorption of the leggings and by the fact that this shows a lack of air permeability.

Um die mechanische Beanspruchbarkeit von textilen Flächengebilden schlechthin und auch die von Beinbekleidungsstücken wie Strümpfen oder Socken, im Textilprüflabor festzustellen, sind in DIN EN ISO 12945 und DIN EN ISO 12947 Richtlinien für die Bestimmung der Neigung von textilen Flächengebilden zur Flusenbildung auf der Oberfläche und der Pillneigung bzw. zur Bestimmung des Scheuerbeständigkeit von textilen Flächengebilden festgelegt. Die Bestimmung der Pillneigung und der Scheuerbeständigkeit erfolgt dabei nach dem in diesen DIN-Blättern erläuterten sogenannten Martindale-Verfahren. Dabei wird eine runde Probe mit festgelegter Kraft in Form einer Lissajous-Figur über eine Reibfläche bzw. ein Scheuermittel bewegt. Die Flusen- und Pillbildung wird durch visuelle Beurteilung nach einer festgelegten Anzahl von Pill-Touren überprüft, während die Scheuerbeständigkeit des textilen Flächengebildes aus der Beurteilung der Flächenveränderung bestimmt wird.In order to determine the mechanical resistance of textile fabrics par excellence as well as those of leg garments such as stockings or socks in the textile testing laboratory, DIN EN ISO 12945 and DIN EN ISO 12947 contain guidelines for determining the inclination of textile fabrics for lint formation on the surface and the tendency to pill or for determining the abrasion resistance of textile fabrics. The determination The Pill inclination and the abrasion resistance is carried out according to the explained in these DIN sheets so-called Martindale method. In this case, a round sample with a defined force in the form of a Lissajous figure is moved over a friction surface or a scouring agent. The lint and pilling is checked by visual assessment after a set number of pills, while the abrasion resistance of the fabric is determined from the assessment of the area change.

Untersuchungen im Textil-Prüflabor haben gezeigt, dass beispielsweise Socken, die in 14er Teilung aus einem Baumwollgarn der Feinheit Nm 34/1 gestrickt sind, bei einer mittleren Garnqualität bereits bei 500 Scheuertouren im Martindale-Gerät eine deutliche Pilling-Bildung zeigen. Beim Scheuertest versagen diese Produkte meistens bei etwa 4000 Touren. Durch die Verwendung von besseren Baumwollqualitäten kann die Scheuerbeständigkeit dieser Socken auf zum Beispiel bis zu 6000 Scheuertouren verbessert werden, wobei sich dafür aber die Pilling-Neigung verschlechtert. Ähnliche Effekte treten auf, wenn die Baumwollfasern mit Chemiefasern (zum Beispiel Polyamid, Polyester) gemischt sind oder Zwirne aus Baumwollgarnen eingesetzt wurden. Dabei wurde das Scheuerverhalten gegebenenfalls verbessert, während aber andererseits die Pilling-Bildung zunahm. Diese Effekte lassen sich, wie sich zeigt, auch umkehren. Beim Einsatz von Baumwollqualitäten, die weniger Pilling-Neigung erkennen lassen, wurde der Scheuertest nicht mehr bestanden.Investigations in the textile test laboratory have shown that, for example, socks that are knit at a pitch of 14 from a cotton yarn of the mesh size Nm 34/1 show a significant pilling formation with an average yarn quality of 500 scrub tests in the Martindale machine. In the scrub test, these products usually fail at around 4,000 tours. By using better cotton qualities, the abrasion resistance of these socks can be improved to, for example, up to 6,000 rubs, but the pilling tendency for them deteriorates. Similar effects occur when the cotton fibers are mixed with manmade fibers (for example, polyamide, polyester) or twines made from cotton yarns. The scrub behavior was possibly improved, but on the other hand, the pilling formation increased. These effects can also be reversed, as it turns out. When using cotton grades that show less pilling tendency, the abrasion test was no longer passed.

Grundsätzlich ähnliche Erfahrungen wurden mit Socken gemacht, in denen Mischgarne verstrickt sind, die aus Viskosefasern mit zugemischten Polyamidfasern bestehen, wobei der Polyamidfaseranteil üblicherweise 10% bis 20% beträgt. Viskosefasern sind Fasern mit sehr weichem Griff und hoher Feuchtigkeitsaufnahme, die sich aber wegen ihrer sehr geringen Scheuerfestigkeit für den Einsatz in Socken nur bedingt eignen.Basically similar experiences have been made with socks in which blended yarns are knitted of viscose fibers with admixed polyamide fibers, the polyamide fiber content usually being 10% to 20%. Viscose fibers are fibers with a very soft feel and high moisture absorption, but because of their very low Abrasion resistance for use in socks only partially suitable.

Aus der FR-A-1174607 ist ein Mehrkomponentengarn aus zwei Komponenten bekannt, von denen eine erste Komponente ein synthetisches texturiertes Filamentgarn enthält und eine zweite Komponente aus einem spinngedrehten Stapelfasergarn aus synthetischen oder natürlichen Fasern aufgebaut ist, wobei die beiden Komponenten unter Erzeugung eines Zwirns miteinander verzwirnt sind. Beschrieben ist ein Mehrkomponentengarn, bei dem das Filamentgarn aus Polyester und das Stapelfasergarn aus Wolle besteht. Ein Hinweis auf ein insbesondere für Socken oder allgemein Beinbekleidungsstücke geeignetes Mehrkomponentengarn findet sich nicht. Daneben ist in der FR-A-1193060 ein Mehrkomponentengarn beschrieben, das zwei jeweils aus einem synthetischen texturierten Filamentgarn bestehende erste Garnkomponenten und eine zweite Garnkomponente aus einem spinngedrehten Stapelfasergarn enthält. Die drei Komponenten sind derart miteinander verzwirnt, dass die Stapelfaserkomponente stets zwischen den beiden Filamentgarnkomponenten eingeklemmt und damit verriegelt ist. Damit soll u.a. dem bei einem Mehrkomponentengarn vorgenannten Art mit lediglich einer, synthetisches texturiertes Filamentgarn enthaltenden ersten Komponente festgestelltem mangelndem Zusammenhalt der Komponenten abgeholfen werden. Schließlich ist in der WO-A-95/13038 noch eine aus Webware bestehende elastische Bandage beschrieben, für deren Kettfäden Mehrkomponentengarn verwendet ist, das lose miteinander verzwirnte texturierte Filamentgarn - und spinngedrehte Stapelfaserkomponenten enthält, die auch aus Baumwollfasern oder Viskosefasern bestehen können. Die sehr niedrige Verzwirnung mit einer Drehungsdichte zwischen 60 bis 200, vorzugsweise 120 bis 130 T/m, machen ein solches Mehrkomponentengarn für Einsatzzwecke, bei denen es auf geringe Pilling-Neigung und hohe Scheuerfestigkeit ankommt, ungeeignet.From the FR-A-1174607 For example, a two-component multicomponent yarn is known, of which a first component comprises a synthetic textured filament yarn and a second component is constructed of a spun staple fiber yarn of synthetic or natural fibers, the two components being twisted together to form a twisted yarn. Described is a multi-component yarn in which the filament yarn is made of polyester and the staple fiber yarn of wool. An indication of a particular suitable for socks or general leg clothing multi-component yarn is not found. Besides that is in the FR-A-1193060 describes a multi-component yarn containing two each consisting of a synthetic textured filament yarn first yarn components and a second yarn component of a spun staple fiber yarn. The three components are twisted together such that the staple fiber component is always trapped and locked between the two filament yarn components. Thus, inter alia, the above-mentioned in a multi-component yarn with only one, synthetic textured filament yarn containing the first component determined lack of cohesion of the components to be remedied. Finally, in the WO 95/13038 nor describes an elastic bandage made of woven fabric, for the warp threads of which multicomponent yarn is used, which contains loosely twisted textured filament yarn and spun-twisted staple fiber components, which may also consist of cotton fibers or viscose fibers. The very low twist with a twist density between 60 to 200, preferably 120 to 130 T / m, make such a multi-component yarn for applications where there is low pilling tendency and high Rub resistance arrives, unsuitable.

Ausgehend von diesem Stand der Technik liegt der Erfindung die Aufgabe zugrunde, ein Mehrkomponentengarn zu schaffen, das in textilen Flächengebilden, insbesondere Beinbekleidungsstücken aus Maschenware verarbeitet, sich dadurch auszeichnet, dass das so erzeugte textile Flächengebilde eine besonders hohe Scheuerfestigkeit mit sehr geringer Pillingneigung verbindet.Based on this prior art, the present invention seeks to provide a Mehrkomponentengarn processed in textile fabrics, especially legwear pieces of knitwear, is characterized in that the fabric thus produced combines a particularly high abrasion resistance with very low Pilling tendency.

Zur Lösung dieser Aufgabe weist das Mehrkomponentengarn gemäß der Erfindung die Merkmale des Patentanspruchs 1 auf. Weiterbildungen sind Gegenstand von Unteransprüchen.To solve this problem, the multi-component yarn according to the invention, the features of claim 1. Further developments are the subject of dependent claims.

Das neue Mehrkomponentengarn ist aus einer, wenigstens ein synthetisches texturiertes Filamentgarn enthaltenden oder aus einem solchen bestehenden ersten Komponente und wenigstens einer zweiten Komponenten zusammengesetzt, die aus einem spinngedrehten Stapelfasergarn besteht. Die erste Komponente ist ein luftblas-texturiertes Filamentgarn. Die beiden Komponenten weisen eine ähnliche Feinheit und optische Struktur auf und sind unter Erzeugung eines Zwirns mit Stapelfasergarn ähnlicher Optik miteinander verzwirnt.The novel multicomponent yarn is composed of a first component comprising or consisting of at least one synthetic textured filament yarn and at least one second component consisting of a spun staple fiber yarn. The first component is a air-blown textured filament yarn. The two components have a similar fineness and optical structure and are twisted together to form a twisted staple yarn of similar optics.

Das Filamentgarn besteht zumindest teilweise, aus Polyamid. Das Stapelfasergarn kann aus einer mischung aus verschiedenen Naturfasern und synthetischen Fasern bestehen.The filament yarn consists at least partially of polyamide. The staple fiber yarn may consist of a mixture of different natural fibers and synthetic fibers.

Das Stapelfasergarn besteht zumindest teilweise aus Viskose. Überraschenderweise hat sich gezeigt, dass durch das Verzwirnen eines luftblas-texturierten Garnes aus Polyamid mit einem Viskose-Stapelgarn ein Gestrick erzeugt werden kann, das selbst nach 5000 Scheuertouren beim Pillingtest praktisch keine Pilling-Bildung aufweist, im Scheuertest jedoch auch bei 6000 Touren noch nicht durchgescheuert ist.The staple fiber yarn consists at least partially of viscose. Surprisingly, it has been found that by knitting an air-textured yarn made of polyamide with a viscose staple yarn, a knitted fabric can be produced which, even after 5000 rubs in the pilling test, practically no Pilling formation has, however, in the chafing test, even at 6000 tours is not worn through.

Aus diesem gezwirnten neuen Mehrkomponentengarn hergestelltes Gestrick behält dabei weitgehend den weichen Griff, der für Viskosefasern typisch ist. Durch die spezielle Kombination von Viskose-Stapelfasern und Polyamid-Filamenten in dem erfindungsgemäßen Mehrkomponentengarn wird erreicht, dass bei daraus hergestellten Socken diese einen wesentlich besseren Feuchtehaushalt aufweisen als herkömmliche Baumwoll- oder Wollsocken. Dies liegt darin begründet, dass Viskose eine dreimal höhere Feuchtigkeitsaufnahme wie Baumwolle oder Wolle aufweist. Auch wenn der Gewichtsanteil der Viskosefasern nur bei etwa 50% liegt, ist die Feuchtigkeitsaufnahme des Gestricks immer noch 50% höher als bei Baumwoll- oder Wollsocken. Bei Tragetests wurde der dadurch erzielte besondere Tragekomfort bestätigt. Hinzu kommt, dass diese neuen Socken einen sehr geringen Verschleiß sowie eine fast gleich bleibende Optik über den gesamten Tragetest aufweisen. Durch die Verzwirnung von einem Stapelfasergarn mit einem luft-texturierten Filamentgarn ungefähr der gleichen Feinheit zu einem Mehrkomponentenzwirn, ergibt sich überraschenderweise der vollständig neue Effekt einer gleichzeitigen Verbesserung der Scheuer- und der Pillingeigenschaften des daraus hergestellten Gestricks.Fabric made from this twisted new multicomponent yarn largely retains the soft feel typical of viscose fibers. Due to the special combination of viscose staple fibers and polyamide filaments in the multicomponent yarn according to the invention, it is achieved that socks produced therefrom have a substantially better moisture balance than conventional cotton or wool socks. This is due to the fact that viscose has a three times higher moisture absorption such as cotton or wool. Even though the proportion by weight of viscose fibers is only about 50%, the moisture absorption of the fabric is still 50% higher than with cotton or wool socks. In wearing tests, the resulting special comfort was confirmed. In addition, these new socks have a very low wear and an almost constant appearance throughout the wear test. By twisting a staple fiber yarn with an air-textured filament yarn of approximately the same fineness into a multi-component thread, the completely new effect of simultaneously improving the scouring and pilling properties of the knit fabric produced therefrom surprisingly results.

Die Luftblas-Texturierung von Garnen ist ein allgemein bekanntes Garntexturierverfahren, das in mehreren Ausführungsvarianten unter Verwendung einer mit Luft beaufschlagten Texturier-Düse durchgeführt wird, die einen Garnführungskanal aufweist, in welchen wenigstens eine radiale Bohrung für die Zuführung des Druckmediums mündet. Beispiele dafür sind beispielsweise aus der DE 1061953 B1 und der EP 0 088 254 A2 bekannt. Luftblas-texturiertes Filamentgarn aus Polyamidfasern ist beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Taslan® von DuPont im Handel.

  • Figur 1 zeigt ein typisches luftblas-texturiertes Filamentgarn und
  • Figur 2 zeigt ein typisches Stapelfasergarn aus Viskosefasern.
Air-jet texturing of yarns is a well-known yarn texturing process, which in several embodiments is performed using an air-applied texturing nozzle having a yarn guide channel into which at least one radial bore for supplying the print medium opens. Examples are for example from the DE 1061953 B1 and the EP 0 088 254 A2 known. Air-blown filament yarn polyamide fibers, for example, under the trade name Taslan ® from DuPont.
  • FIG. 1 shows a typical air-blown textured filament yarn and
  • FIG. 2 shows a typical staple fiber yarn of viscose fibers.

Das luftblastexturierte Garn nach Figur 1 besteht aus einer Anzahl endloser synthetischer Filamente und weist einen im Wesentlichen geschlossenen Garnkörper auf, von dem mehr oder weniger große Filamentschlaufen oder -schlingen abstehen. Diese Filamentschlaufen oder -schlingen sind in unregelmäßigen Abständen längs der Oberfläche verteilt und teilweise sich selbst kreuzend gestaltet. Dadurch ergibt sich eine einem Spinnfasergarn ähnliche Struktur, wie der Vergleich mit dem Stapelfasergarn nach Figur 2 augenfällig zeigt. Während bei dem Stapelfasergarn von dem Garnkörper abstehende Faserteile in der überwiegenden Mehrzahl offene Enden aufweisen, sind bei dem luftblas-texturierten Garn, wie erwähnt, keine abstehenden freien Faserenden, sondern geschlossene Schlaufen oder Schlingen vorhanden, die eine ähnliche "Haarigkeit" oder Bauschigkeit wie bei einem Stapelfasergarn hervorrufen. Bei Verwendung zweckentsprechend gewählter Filament- und Stapelfasermaterialien und - qualitäten lässt sich erreichen, dass ein luftblastexturiertes Garn und Stapelfasergarn eine optisch ähnliche Struktur aufweisen.The air-textured yarn after FIG. 1 consists of a number of endless synthetic filaments and has a substantially closed package from which project more or less large filament loops or loops. These filament loops or loops are distributed at irregular intervals along the surface and partially designed to be self-intersecting. This results in a spun yarn similar structure as the comparison with the staple fiber yarn FIG. 2 shows conspicuously. While in the staple fiber yarn from the package protruding fiber parts in the vast majority have open ends, the air-textured yarn, as mentioned, no protruding free fiber ends, but closed loops or loops exist that have a similar "hairiness" or bulkiness as in cause a staple fiber yarn. By using appropriately selected filament and staple fiber materials and grades, it is possible to achieve that an air-blast-textured yarn and staple fiber yarn have an optically similar structure.

Versuche haben ergeben, dass die Eigenschaften des neuen Garns mit zunehmender Drehungszahl bei der Verzwirnung verbessert werden. Die Anzahl der Drehungen liegt zwischen 300 bis 800 T/m, wobei sich ein Bereich zwischen 550 bis 650 T/m besonders hervorhebt. Wesentlich ist in jedem Fall, dass die Stapelgarnkomponente mit der luft-texturierten Komponente verzwirnt und nicht umwunden ist. Das heißt beide Garnkomponenten müssen fest miteinander verbunden sein und auf der Außenseite des Mehrkomponentengarns in Erscheinung treten, damit sich die Eigenschaft der die beiden Komponenten bildenden Fasermaterialien zu der überraschenden Kombinationswirkung verbinden, die darin besteht, dass bei hoher Scheuerfestigkeit eine sehr geringe Pilling-Neigung auftritt.Experiments have shown that the properties of the new yarn are improved with increasing number of turns in the twisting. The number of turns is between 300 and 800 T / m, with a range between 550 and 650 T / m being particularly prominent. It is essential in any case that the staple yarn component is twisted with the air-textured component and not wound. That is, both yarn components must be firmly bonded together and appear on the outside of the multicomponent yarn so that the property of the fiber materials forming the two components combine to produce the surprising combination effect of having a very low pilling tendency with high abrasion resistance ,

Die massebezogenen Anteile der beiden Komponenten in dem Mehrkomponentengarn liegen, wie sich gezeigt hat, mit Vorteil in einem Bereich zwischen 65/35 und 50/50, doch sind davon abweichende Anteile vorstellbar. Dabei kann sowohl die Filamentkomponente als auch die Stapelfaserkomponente den größeren beziehungsweise kleineren Anteil ausmachen, je nach dem welche Anforderungen an das Gestrick gestellt werden, in dem das neue Mehrkomponentengarn abgestrickt ist.The mass-based proportions of the two components in the multicomponent yarn are, as has been shown, advantageously in a range between 65/35 and 50/50, but deviating proportions are conceivable. In this case, both the filament component and the staple fiber component make up the larger or smaller proportion, depending on which demands are placed on the knitted fabric in which the new multicomponent yarn is knitted.

Die beiden Komponenten sind, wie erwähnt, so miteinander verzwirnt, dass die Fasern beider Komponenten auf der Außenseite des Mehrkomponentengarns wirken. Damit wird erreicht, dass die Optik des das Mehrkomponentengarn bildenden Zwirns der eines normalen Stapelfasergarns entspricht. Dies steht im Gegensatz zu den so genannten Hochbauschgarnen, wie sie in verschiedener Konstruktion durch Luftblas-Texturieren hergestellt und zu unterschiedlichen Zwecken verwendet werden.The two components are, as mentioned, so twisted together that the fibers of both components act on the outside of the multi-component yarn. This ensures that the appearance of the multi-component yarn forming twine corresponds to that of a normal Stapelfasergarns. This is in contrast to the so-called high bulk yarns, such as those made in various designs by air blast texturing and used for various purposes.

Beispiele:Examples:

Es wurden folgende erfindungsgemäße Mehrkomponentengarne hergestellt und getestet:

  1. 1. Nm 70/1 CV (Viscose) + PA (Polyamid) 130 f 72 dtex, 600 T/m
  2. 2. Nm 70/1 CV (Viscose) + PA (Polyamid) 130 f 72 dtex, 330 T/m
  3. 3. Nm 68/1 CV (Viscose) + PA (Polyamid) 140 f 102 dtex, 600 T/m
The following multicomponent yarns according to the invention were prepared and tested:
  1. 1. Nm 70/1 CV (Viscose) + PA (Polyamide) 130 f 72 dtex, 600 T / m
  2. 2. Nm 70/1 CV (Viscose) + PA (Polyamide) 130 f 72 dtex, 330 T / m
  3. 3. Nm 68/1 CV (viscose) + PA (polyamide) 140 f 102 dtex, 600 T / m

Aus diesen Mehrkomponentengarnen hergestellte Gestricke verfügten über eine hervorragende Scheuerfestigkeit. Sie waren im Scheuertest bei 6000 Touren im Martindale-Gerät nicht durchgescheuert.Yarns made from these multicomponent yarns had excellent rub resistance. They were not worn through in the abrasion test at 6000 tours in the Martindale device.

Gestricke aus den Mehrkomponentengarnen 1 und 3 ergaben außerdem hervorragende Pilling-Eigenschaften, weil selbst nach 5000 Scheuertouren beim Pilling-Test praktisch keine Pilling-Bildung aufgetreten ist. Das Garn 2 zeigte sehr gute Pilling-Eigenschaften, die etwas geringer als jene der Garne 1, 3 waren.Knitted fabrics from the multicomponent yarns 1 and 3 also gave excellent pilling properties, because even after 5,000 rubs in the pilling test virtually no pilling formation occurred. The yarn 2 showed very good pilling properties which were slightly lower than those of the yarns 1, 3.

Aus diesen Garnen hergestellte Socken zeichnen sich durch hohen Tragekomfort aus. Sie wurden von Testpersonen als klimatisch ausgewogen, d. h. mit trockenem Tragegefühl ohne Frieren und Schwitzen empfunden. Die Socken zeigen eine nur geringe Knitterneigung und weisen außerdem eine gute Eignung für die Stückfärbung auf.Socks made from these yarns are characterized by their high wearing comfort. They were considered by climbers to be climatically balanced, i. H. felt dry to the touch without feeling cold and sweating. The socks show only a slight crease tendency and also have a good suitability for piece dyeing.

Abschließend sei erwähnt, dass zu pflanzlichen Naturfasern, aus denen die Stapelgarnkomponente teilweise bestehen kann Baumwolle, Kapok, Leinen etc. oder eine Mischung dieser Fasern zählten. Synthetisches Fasermaterial zur Verwendung bei der Stapelfaserkomponente kann neben Viskose, Acetate, Lyocell, Cupro, Polyamid, Polyester, Polypropylen, Polyacryl etc. oder eine Mischung dieser Fasermaterialien beinhalten. Für spezielle Anwendungsfälle kann das Fasermaterial der Filamentgarnkomponente neben Polyamidfilamenten auch Polyester, Polypropylen, Polyacryl, Polyurethan etc. oder Mischungen dieser Filamentmaterialien miteinander aufweisen.Finally, it should be mentioned that to natural vegetable fibers from which the staple yarn component may partially consist of cotton, kapok, linen, etc., or a mixture of these fibers counted. Synthetic fiber material for use in the staple fiber component may include, in addition to viscose, acetates, lyocell, cupro, polyamide, polyester, polypropylene, polyacrylic, etc., or a blend of these fiber materials. For special applications, the fiber material of the filament yarn component may comprise, in addition to polyamide filaments, also polyester, polypropylene, polyacrylic, polyurethane etc. or mixtures of these filamentary materials with one another.

Stapelfasergarn aus Viskosefasermaterial ist in einer besonderen Qualität, die für das neue Komponentengarn mit Vorteil verwendet werden kann unter dem Handelsnamen Tencel ® der Lenzing AG im Handel.Staple fiber yarn of viscose fiber material is in a special quality, which can be used for the new component yarn with advantage under the trade name Tencel ® Lenzing AG in the trade.

Das neue Mehrkomponentengarn ist grundsätzlich für die Herstellung von beliebigen textilen Flächengebilden, insbesondere Gestricken verwendbar, bei denen es auf hohe Scheuerfestigkeit und geringe Pilling-Neigung ankommt. Besonders vorteilhaft hat es sich aber für die Verwendung bei Beinbekleidungsstücken herausgestellt, weil bei Verwendung eines feuchtigkeitsaufsaugenden Stapelfasermaterials, beispielsweise Viskose oder Baumwolle, zusätzlich zu den erwähnten Eigenschaften noch ein ausgeglichener Feuchtigkeitshaushalt hinzutritt, der den Tragekomfort in überraschender Weise erhöht.The new multicomponent yarn can basically be used for the production of any textile fabrics, in particular crocheted fabrics, where high abrasion resistance and low pilling tendency are important. However, it has proven to be particularly advantageous for use in legwear pieces, because when using a moisture-absorbent staple fiber material, for example viscose or cotton, in addition to the mentioned properties, a balanced moisture balance is added, which increases the wearing comfort in a surprising manner.

Claims (5)

  1. Multi-component yam with a first component that contains at least one synthetic filament yam or is composed of such a yam and at least a second component composed of a single twist staple fibre yam, in which the first component is an air-jet textured filament yam and the two components have a similar fineness and optical structure, characterised in that the two components are twisted together with a number of twists of 300 to 800 T/m forming a twisted yam, in which the two yam components become visible on the outer surface of the multi-component yam, wherein the filament yam is composed at least partially of polyamide and the staple fibre yam is composed at least partially of viscose.
  2. Multi-component yam according to claim 1, characterised in that the staple fibre yam is composed of a mixture of different natural and synthetic fibres.
  3. Multi-component according to claim 1, characterised in that the number of twists lies between 550 and 650 T/m.
  4. Multi-component according to claim 1, characterised in that the bulk-related proportions of the two components in the multi-component yam amount to between 65/35 and 50/50.
  5. Hosiery piece made of knitted goods having a multi-component yam according to one of the preceding claims at least partially knitted into it.
EP09013999A 2009-02-09 2009-11-09 Multi-part yarn and leg clothing produced from the same Active EP2221403B1 (en)

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CN102534906A (en) * 2010-12-30 2012-07-04 上海水星家用纺织品股份有限公司 Bi-component blend fiber containing tencel and viscose as well as preparation method and application of bi-component blend fiber

Family Cites Families (8)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2783609A (en) 1951-12-14 1957-03-05 Du Pont Bulky continuous filament yarn
FR1174607A (en) * 1957-05-07 1959-03-13 Francois Masurel Freres Ets Composite yarn based on natural fibers and man-made fibers
FR77731E (en) * 1960-05-18 1962-04-13 Francois Masurel Freres Ets Improvements to the process for manufacturing a yarn consisting of a core of staple fibers trapped in continuous yarn supports
CH653383A5 (en) 1982-03-10 1985-12-31 Heberlein & Co Ag DEVICE FOR TEXTURING AT LEAST ONE CONTINUOUS YARN consisting of a MULTIPLE NUMBER OF FILAMENTS.
GB9323161D0 (en) * 1993-11-10 1994-01-05 Smith & Nephew Crepe effect bandage
DE19624412A1 (en) * 1996-06-19 1998-01-02 Hoechst Trevira Gmbh & Co Kg Multi-component yarns
DE29902103U1 (en) * 1999-02-08 2000-06-15 Heberlein Fasertechnologie Ag, Wattwil Device for connecting an endless filament yarn and a staple fiber yarn
DE10161419A1 (en) * 2001-12-13 2003-06-18 Temco Textilmaschkomponent Method and device for producing a combination yarn

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