EP1418886A1

EP1418886A1 - Cosmetic cleansing formulations, based on a combination of sodium laureth sulphate and alkyl polyamphopolycarboxy glycinates

Info

Publication number: EP1418886A1
Application number: EP02794557A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Andreas Clausen; Ursula Jensen; Stephan Ruppert; Martin Sugar; Maren Wilken
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2001-08-10
Filing date: 2002-08-06
Publication date: 2004-05-19
Also published as: JP2005501065A; WO2003013467A1; US20040223939A1

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of alkyl polyamphopolycarboxy glycinates for reducing the adsorption of sulphate and/or sulphonate surfactants by the skin during the cosmetic cleansing of the latter.

Description

Cosmetic cleansing formulations based on a combination of sodium laureth sulfate and alkylpolamphopolvcarboxyqlvcinaten

The present invention relates to the use of a surfactant combination of sodium laureth sulfate and alkyl polyamphopolycarboxyglycinates in cosmetic cleaning agents.

Surfactants are very important as wash-active substances in cosmetic cleaning agents. Due to their specific molecular structure, each with a hydrophilic (water-attracting) and hydrophobic (water-repellent) grouping in the same molecule, they reduce the surface tension of the water, wetting the skin, facilitating dirt removal and foam regulation.

There are four classes of surfactants:

The first class are nonionic surfactants. These include fatty alcohol ethoxylates [RO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n H], fatty acid monoethanolamides [RCONHCH ₂ CH ₂ OH] and

Alkyl polyglycosides (APGs)

R = fatty acid residue A second class are the amphoteric surfactants. These are compounds that contain both a cationic function, usually a quaternary nitrogen, and an anionic function, usually a carboxylate group. These include alkylaminobetaines

as well as alkylamidoglycinates.

R = fatty acid residue

The group of cationic surfactants consists of compounds which contain at least one quaternary nitrogen atom. These include, for example, alkylamines, alkylimidazoles, ethoxylated amines.

The group of anionic surfactants is formed from sulfates, sulfonates and carboxylates i.e. Salts of esters of sulfuric acid, and salts of sulfonic and carboxylic acids.

The most common surfactants in this class are derived from lauryl alcohol (C ₁₂ H ₂₅ OH). These are the sodium salt of lauryl sulfate (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, SLS) with the structure C ₁₂ H ₅ θSO ₃ and ethylene glycol ether of alcohol, which are also esterified with sulfuric acid (Sodium Laureth Sulfate, SLES). These have the structure:

C ₁₂ H ₂ 5 (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n OSO ₃ . However, commercially available sodium lauryl ether sulfate (sodium polyoxyethylene lauryl sulfate) used in the present invention is usually a mixture of substances whose structures have the general formula

obey where m can take the numbers 4 to 6 and n can take the numbers 0 to 10.

These compounds have excellent detergent properties and good foaming power. However, in higher doses they are irritating to the skin and mucous membranes. They also lead to a reduction in skin moisture and an increase in transepidermal water loss (WETL). Because of the good availability, the excellent washing properties and not least because of the acceptable price, it is hardly possible to completely do without this surfactant.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to develop skin-friendly cosmetic cleaning formulations based on sodium laureth sulfate.

Surprisingly, a mixture of the surfactants sodium laureth sulfate and one or more alkyl polyamphopolycarboxyglycinates was able to remedy the shortcomings of the prior art and to formulate cosmetic cleaning agents with good cleaning performance and a high degree of mildness. Although DE 19960767 also describes surfactant mixtures for reducing the skin adsorption of sodium laureth sulfate, this document could not point the way to the present invention, since it ignored mixtures with alkylpolyamphopolycarboxyglycinates, the effect of which is to reduce the skin adsorption of sodium laureth sulfate, well above all previously known surfactant mixtures lies. The cosmetic cleaning formulations according to the invention preferably contain sodium laureth sulfate in a concentration of 1 to 20% by weight and particularly preferably in a concentration of 5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

The cosmetic cleaning formulations according to the invention also contain sodium carboxymethyl cocoyl polypropylamine in a concentration of 0.1 to 10% by weight and particularly preferably in a concentration of 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

Furthermore, the cosmetic cleaning formulations can advantageously contain according to the invention:

Anionic surfactants

Acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric acid glutamate,

2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium-cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,

3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,

4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,

5. Acyl lactylate, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate

6. Alaninate carboxylic acids and derivatives such as

1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanoate and zinc undecylenate,

2. ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6-citrate and sodium PEG-4-lauramide carboxylate,

3. ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

Phosphoric acid esters and salts, such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilureth-4-phosphate, Sulfonic acids and salts such as

1. acyl isethionates, e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,

2. alkylarylsulfonates,

3. alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C ₁₂ .ι ₄ olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,

4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

as well as sulfuric acid esters, such as

1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium Cι _2- ι ₃ -pareth sulfate,

2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

Cationic surfactants to be used advantageously

1. alkylamines,

2. alkylimidazoles,

3. Ethoxylated amines and

4. Quaternary surfactants.

5. Esterquats

Advantageous quaternary surfactants are alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain.

Cationic surfactants can furthermore preferably be selected for the purposes of the present invention from the group of the quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as, for example, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, or alkydimylmethylchloride, or alkydimethylammonium chloride, or methylimidomethylammonium, or methylimidomethylammonium or alkylammonium methylimide bromides, alkyl amidethyl trimethyl ammonium ether sulfates, alkyl pyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetyl pyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with cationic Character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously

1. acyl- / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxy propylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,

2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Non-ionic surfactants

Non-ionic surfactants to be used advantageously

1. alcohols,

2. alkanolamides, such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA,

3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,

4. esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,

5. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxyiierte alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxy Iierte esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated Glycerinester, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides as Lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside.

6. sucrose esters, ether

7 polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters 8. methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids

In addition to the substances mentioned above, the compositions optionally contain the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, pigments, which have a coloring effect, thickening agents, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other usual Before components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

In a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to liquid soaps or washing lotions. Such products are not only used to clean the hands, but usually also for the whole body, including the face. Accordingly, they are also suitable for use as a shower preparation. The development of these products focuses on the dermatological requirements, since the skin comes into intensive contact with the concentrated surfactant solution. Special emphasis is therefore placed on the selection of mild surfactants in low concentrations. Further criteria are good foaming power as well as a pleasant, refreshing fragrance and the simultaneous care of the skin. Washing lotions and shower baths in particular generally have viscosities of around 3,000 to 10,000 mPa-s, which on the one hand allow the product to be spread easily with quick foaming, but on the other hand should be high enough to enable perfect use by hand or washcloth.

Another particularly preferred embodiment according to the invention relates to thickened preparations as used in shower gels and other viscous cleaning formulations. The combination of ethoxylated glycerol isostearates with fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers is advantageous according to the invention for thickening the surfactant systems according to the invention. According to the invention, the combination of PEG-90 glyceryl isostearate with Laureth-2 (e.g. Oxetal VD92, Zschimmer & Schwarz) is particularly preferred. According to the invention, the use of ethoxylated glyceryl isostearates in a concentration of 0.2 to 8% by weight and in particular 1 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, and the use of fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers in a concentration of 0 are advantageous. 1 to 5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

The ratio of alkyl ether sulfates + alkyl polyamphopolycarboxyglycinates to ethoxylated glycerol isostearates in the thickened preparations is 1: 1 to 20: 1 and particularly preferably 8: 1 to 15: 1. The ratio of these thickened preparations is Sulfate and / or sulfonate surfactants to alkylpolyamphopolycarboxyglycinates 10: 1 to 2: 1 and particularly preferably 3: 1 to 6: 1.

Liquid soaps or washing lotions are generally characterized by a more or less high water content, but usually do not have a noticeable care effect, since they have only a low oil content.

Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention to use the cosmetic cleaning formulations as a bath, foam or shower bath formulation and as a shampoo.

Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention to use the cosmetic cleaning formulations for reducing the skin adsorption of sodium laureth sulfate, for reducing the transepidermal water loss and for increasing the skin moisture.

The following figures show the superiority of the cosmetic cleaning preparations according to the invention in terms of reducing the skin adsorption of sodium laureth sulfate:

Control of pure SLES solution SLES + APCG

illustration 1

Control formulation B (contains formulation A (contains APCG) cocamidopropyl betaine)

Figure 2

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, parts and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

Claims

claims

1. Use of alkyl polyamphopolycarboxyglycinates to reduce the skin adsorption of sulfate and / or sulfonate surfactants in the cosmetic cleaning of the skin.

2. Use of alkyl polyamphopolycarboxyglycinates according to claim 1, with sodium laureth sulfate as sulfate.

3. Use of alkyl polyamphopolycarboxyglycinates according to one of claims 1 or 2, with sodium carboxymethyl cocoyl polypropylamine as alkyl polyamphopolycarboxyglycinate.

4. Use of alkyl polyamphopolycarboxyglycinates in cosmetic cleaning formulations according to one of claims 1 to 3, which contain sodium laureth sulfate in a concentration of 1 to 20 wt .-% based on the total weight of the formulation.

5. Use of alkyl polyamphopolycarboxyglycinates in cosmetic cleaning formulations according to one of claims 1 to 4, the

Contain sodium carboxymethyl cocopolypropylamine in a concentration of 0.1 to 10 wt .-% based on the total weight of the recipe.

6. Use of alkyl polyamphopolycarboxyglycinates in cosmetic cleaning formulations according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cleaning formulation is a bath.

7. Use of alkyl polyamphopolycarboxyglycinates in cosmetic cleaning formulations according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cleaning formulation is a foam bath.

8. Use of alkyl polyamphopolycarboxyglycinates in cosmetic cleaning formulations according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cleaning formulation is a shower bath.

9. Use of alkyl polyamphopolycarboxyglycinates in cosmetic cleaning formulations according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cleaning formulation is a shampoo.

10. Cosmetic cleaning formulations according to one of claims 1 to 9, the ethoxylated glycerol isostearate in a concentration of 0.2 to 8 wt .-% based on the total weight of the formulation.

11. Cosmetic cleaning formulations according to any one of claims 1 to 10, the fatty alcohol polyglycol ether in a concentration of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% based on the total weight of the formulation.

12. Use of alkyl polyamphopolycarboxyglycinates in cosmetic cleaning formulations according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cleaning formulation is thickened preparations, in particular shower gels.