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EP1292277A1 - Procede de protection de l'epiderme - Google Patents

Procede de protection de l'epiderme

Info

Publication number
EP1292277A1
EP1292277A1 EP01962725A EP01962725A EP1292277A1 EP 1292277 A1 EP1292277 A1 EP 1292277A1 EP 01962725 A EP01962725 A EP 01962725A EP 01962725 A EP01962725 A EP 01962725A EP 1292277 A1 EP1292277 A1 EP 1292277A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acid
hsp
skin
oil
fatty
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP01962725A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Gilles Pauly
Louis Danoux
Christine Jeanmaire
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
BASF Health and Care Products France SAS
Original Assignee
Cognis France SAS
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Cognis France SAS filed Critical Cognis France SAS
Priority to EP01962725A priority Critical patent/EP1292277A1/fr
Publication of EP1292277A1 publication Critical patent/EP1292277A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/16—Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants

Definitions

  • the invention is in the field of skin care products and relates to a method for protecting human skin against environmental influences, a further method for determining the influence of environmental toxins on the skin and the use of special proteins as probes for determining the toxic effect of environmental toxins.
  • HSP heat shock proteins
  • HSP production pathophysiological stress factors such as microbial infections can lead to an increase in HSP production.
  • the increased formation of HSP leads to a transitional state in the skin in which the cells have an improved resistance to further stress, so that the risk of possibly irreparable cell damage is reduced.
  • Heat shock proteins are a heterogeneous group of proteins whose molecular weight is in the range from 10 to 110 KD. Table 1 gives an overview of Trautinger et al. given, which gives an assignment of size as a function of molecular weight, localization and essential function to special HSP. Table 1 Heat shock proteins
  • the HSP have important tasks in the synthesis, transport and folding of proteins and are therefore often referred to as "molecular companions". Although their effects have not yet been fully understood, there are many indications that the HSP attach to partially folded or malformed proteins and thereby protect them from irreversible denaturation when stressed [cf. Maytin JID, 104, 448 (1995)].
  • the two proteins HSP 27 and HSP 70 are particularly important in this connection, since they are a have particularly high thermal tolerance, so they protect cells from further stress particularly effectively. The two proteins can be found in the skin.
  • the object of the present invention was therefore to provide a new concept for skin care which can protect the human skin from the influence of environmental toxins, especially exhaust gases from internal combustion engines and cigarette smoke, or can stimulate the repair of existing cell damage.
  • a concept was sought that can be used to determine the damage to skin cells due to environmental influences.
  • the invention relates to a method for protecting human skin from environmental influences by topical treatment with such an amount of active ingredients that an increased formation of heat shock proteins, especially small HSP, HSP 27 and the families HSP 70 and HSP 110, is caused in the skin cells.
  • the prophylactic topical administration of the active ingredients puts the skin in an increased resistant state and is therefore better equipped to deal with environmental influences.
  • the concept according to the invention provides for the skin to be brought into contact with the active ingredients first in the evening, in order to activate the repair functions by first stimulating the HSP, and then to contact the skin with other active ingredients in the morning bring, by further stimulating the formation of HSP to increase the resistance of the skin cells to stress factors to which the skin is exposed during the day, and thus to strengthen the defense mechanisms for the day.
  • Suitable active ingredients that stimulate the formation of HSP are estrogens, phytoestrogens, isoflavones, OPC (oligomers procyanidolic), anthocyanins, amino acids, oligopeptides, phytic acid and other calcium chelating agents and plant extracts containing them. Another object of the invention relates to the use of this group of compounds to stimulate HSP production in the cells.
  • These active ingredients are used in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations.
  • the active ingredients are preferably used in amounts of 0.001 to 10% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.01 to 5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, calculated as dry matter, based on the overall preparation.
  • Another object of the invention therefore relates to a method for determining the influence of environmental toxins on the human body, which is characterized in that the environmental toxins, especially exhaust gases from internal combustion engines and cigarette smoke, are allowed to act on skin cells and then the increase in heat shock proteins (HSP) certainly.
  • a final object of the invention is finally directed to the use of heat shock proteins (HSP) as probes for determining the influence of environmental toxins on the human body. Both the method and the use are directed to the group of HSP as a whole, although here too the small HSP, HSP 27 and the families HSP 70 and HSP 110 are particularly preferred.
  • Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations such as, for example, emulsions, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat compositions, stick preparations, powders or ointments, which contain the active ingredients, can furthermore be used as further auxiliaries.
  • mild surfactants oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic agents, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, anti-dandruff agents, anti-dandruff agents Have swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmentation agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like.
  • Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric surfactants may be present as surface-active substances, the proportion of which in the compositions is usually from 1 to 70, preferably is 5 to 50 and in particular 10 to 30 wt .-%.
  • anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkylether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxymischogether sulfate sulfate, hydroxymischogether sulfate sulfates, hydroxymischogether sulfate sulfate, hydroxymischogether sulfate sulfate, hydroxymischogether sulfate sulfate, hydroxymischogether sulfate sulfate, hydroxymischogether sulfate sulfate,
  • anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
  • Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides, especially glucoronic acid, or glucoramic acid derivatives, and glucoronic acid nuclei (glucoronic acid) derivatives, in particular, glucoronic acid (G) -glucoronic acid (G) -glucoronic acid (G) -glucoric acid-derived (G) -glucoramic acid-derived (G) -glucoramic acid (G) -glucoric acid-derived (especially
  • nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
  • cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and esterquats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds.
  • Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ⁇ -olefin sulfonates, fatty acid gluco amide fatty acids, alkyl carboxylates, fatty acid gluco amide fatty acids, fatty acid gluco amide fatty acids, fatty acid gluco amide fatty acids, fatty acid glucoamides, fatty acid glucoamides, fatty acid glucosacid fatty acids, fatty acid glucamate fatty acids, fatty acid glucosacid fatty acids, fatty acid glucosaccharides, fatty acid glucosacids, fatty acid fatty acids,
  • esters of linear C 6 -C 22 fatty acids with branched alcohols in particular * 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C 8 -C 38 alkyl hydroxy carboxylic acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 fatty alcohols (see.
  • dioctyl Malate esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (for example propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C 6 -C ⁇ 0 fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / Triglyceride mixtures based on C 6 -C 8 fatty acids, esters of C 6 -C 22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C 2 -C 2 dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 Carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C 6 -C 22 fatty alcohol carbonates, w ie dicaprylyl
  • Suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups: > Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and Alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical;
  • Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (eg methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) as well as polyglucosides (eg cellulose) saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide;
  • Block copolymers e.g. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate;
  • Polymer emulsifiers e.g. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;
  • the adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate, with which the addition reaction is carried out.
  • C ⁇ 2 / ⁇ 8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of Addition products of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 2024051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.
  • Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • glycoside residue both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to preferably about 8 are suitable.
  • the degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.
  • Suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid, Isostearinklarediglycerid, ⁇ I- acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, monoglyceride Ricinolklaremoglycerid, Ricinolklarediglycerid, linoleic, Linolklarediglycerid, Linolenchuremonoglycerid, linolenic acid diglyceride, Erucaklaremonoglycerid, Erucaklaklarediglycerid, Weinklaremonoglycerid, rid Weinklarediglyce-, Citronenklamonoglycerid, Citronendiglycerid, Malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, which may still contain minor amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol
  • polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostateate (Isolan® GI 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleate, diisostearoyl polyglyearylate-3 (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Bees wax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403 ) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate
  • polystyrene resin examples include the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylm -hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate
  • Suitable emulsifiers are also ampholytic surfactants.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C 8 / i 8 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts .
  • suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylamino-butyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C ⁇ 2 / ⁇ 8 acyl sarcosine.
  • cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.
  • Typical examples of fats are glycerides, ie solid or liquid vegetable or animal products which essentially consist of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids.
  • Natural waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, come among others , Ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walrus, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as, for example, montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes.
  • lecithins In addition to fats, fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives.
  • lecithins are those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often used in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC). Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids.
  • phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats.
  • glycerol phosphates glycerol phosphates
  • sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.
  • Pearlescent waxes are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol stearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms
  • Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids.
  • a combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred.
  • Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose High molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (e.g.
  • surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alky
  • Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.
  • Metal salts of fatty acids such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate are used.
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylic amides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers such as e.g.
  • Luviquat® condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as, for example, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as e.g. Amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, e.g.
  • cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products of dihaloalkylene, such as e.g. Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17,
  • Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese
  • quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.
  • Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers include, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and polyesters and their esters, uncrosslinked , Acrylamido-propyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / teraminate / vinyl acrylate methacrylate / vinyl methacrylate methacrylate
  • Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl modified silicone compounds which are both liquid and resinous at room temperature can.
  • Simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.
  • a detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976).
  • UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, organic substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again.
  • UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);
  • esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4 ⁇ -methylbenzophenone, 2,2 "-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
  • esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;
  • Triazine derivatives such as 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2 ⁇ -ethyl-r-hexyloxy) -l, 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in EP 0818450 AI or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);
  • Propane-1,3-diones such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4 ⁇ methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
  • Typical UV-A filters are, in particular, derivatives of benzoyl methane such as l- (4, -tert.Butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl ⁇ ) propane-l, 3-dione, 4-tert-butyl -4- methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), l-phenyl-3- (4 v -isopropylphenyl) propane-l, 3-dione and enamine compounds, as described in DE 19712033 AI (BASF).
  • the UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures.
  • Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoyl methane , for example 4-tert-butyl 4 ⁇ methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate-2-ethyl-hexyl ester (Octocrylene), in combination with Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate.
  • benzoyl methane for example 4-tert-butyl 4 ⁇ methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate-2-ethyl-hexyl ester (Octocrylene)
  • Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxyc
  • Such combinations with water-soluble filters such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5 ⁇ sulfonic acid and their alkali, alkaline earth, am- monium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts combined.
  • insoluble light protection pigments namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts
  • suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof.
  • Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts.
  • the oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics.
  • the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm.
  • the pigments can also be surface treated, i.e. are hydrophilized or hydrophobized.
  • Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, e.g. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used.
  • Other suitable UV light protection filters are in the overview by P.Finkel in S ⁇ FW-Journal 122, 543 (1996) and Parf.Kosm. 3, 11 (1999).
  • secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin.
  • amino acids e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, trypotophan
  • imidazoles e.g. urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-camosine and their derivatives (e.g.
  • carotenoids carotenoids
  • carotenes eg ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene
  • chlorogenic acid and their derivatives lipoic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiou-racil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, Glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters ) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleic acid and
  • ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • bile acid bile extracts
  • bilirubin biliverdin
  • EDTA EDTA
  • EGTA unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their Derivatives
  • vitamin C and derivatives e.g.
  • biogenic active ingredients can be used under biogenic active ingredients, such as tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA- Acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, other plant extracts and vitamin complexes.
  • biogenic active ingredients such as tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA- Acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, other plant extracts and vitamin complexes.
  • deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors.
  • Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed.
  • deodorants contain active ingredients which act as germ-inhibiting agents, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.
  • germ-inhibiting agents such as. B.
  • Esterase inhibitors are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT).
  • the substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor.
  • esterase inhibitors include sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesteric, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, Adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, as well as zinc glycolate.
  • dicarboxylic acids and their esters such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, Adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, a
  • Suitable odor absorbers are substances that absorb odor-forming compounds and can retain them to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes must remain unaffected. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as, for example, the main component. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrance agents or perfume oils act as odor maskers, which, in addition to their function as odor maskers, give the deodorants their respective fragrance.
  • Perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type.
  • Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether
  • the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal
  • the ketones include, for example, the jonones and methylcedryl ketone
  • the alcohols are anethole, citronell Eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol
  • the hydrocarbons mainly include borrowed the terpenes and balms.
  • fragrance oils of lower volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lentil flower oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • Antiperspirants reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the secret sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor.
  • Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:
  • non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.
  • Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients.
  • suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are e.g. Aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with propylene glycol-1,2.
  • conventional oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants.
  • Such oil-soluble auxiliaries can e.g. his:
  • Oil-soluble perfume oils are, for example, preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusters, for example buffer mixtures, water-soluble thickeners, for example water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as, for example, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinylpyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.
  • Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.
  • Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (1H) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt
  • Baypival® (climbazole), Ketoconazol®, (4-acetyl -l - ⁇ - 4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1H-imidazol-l-ylmethyl) -l, 3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl ⁇ piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal sulfur polyehtylenglykolsorbitanmonooleat, Schwefelrizinolpolyehtoxylat, Schwfel tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate Na salt, Lamepon® UD (protein undecylenic
  • Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).
  • Suitable insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl butyl acetylaminopropionate. Self-tanners and depiqmentants
  • Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner.
  • Arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) can be used as tyrosine inhibitors, which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents.
  • Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior.
  • Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are
  • Alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
  • Methyl compounds such as, in particular, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
  • Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms such as sorbitol or mannitol,
  • Dialcohol amines such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-l, 3-propanediol.
  • Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation. perfume oils
  • Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, cumin, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme) ), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
  • Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes e.g.
  • the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones e.g. the Jonone, ⁇ -Isomethylionon and Methylcedrylketon, to the alcohols Anethol, Citronellol, Eugenol, Isoeugenol, Geraniol, Linalool, Phenylethylalkohol and Terpineol, to the hydrocarbons belong mainly the Terpenes and Balsame. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance.
  • Essential oils of lower volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. Sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • perfume oils e.g. Sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • bergamot oil dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, ⁇ -hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, Cyclovertal, lavandin oil, muscatel Sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irot
  • the dyes which can be used are the substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as described, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Colorants” the dye commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.
  • the total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40,% by weight, based on the composition.
  • the agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.
  • the total proportion of active ingredients and the total proportion of auxiliaries and additives add up to 100% with water.
  • the sections were incubated for 45 min at a dilution of 1:50 with biotinylated goat anti-mouse antibodies and then for a further 45 min at a dilution of 1:30 with a streptavidin-fluorescein complex (FITC) , Appropriate controls were carried out without the primary antibodies.
  • FITC streptavidin-fluorescein complex
  • the sections were treated with Evans Blue over a period of 10 min. All reagents, e.g. the anti-HSP 72 monoclonal antibodies or the streptavidin-fluorescein complex were obtained from Amersham. The skin sections were then evaluated using a confocal laser microscope from Zeiss.
  • HSP quantification The images obtained with the microscope were transferred into numerical color number representations and evaluated with the aid of the Quantimet Q500 image processing program from Leica. The results are summarized in Table 2. The percentage of the area of HSP in relation to the total area of the epidermis is given.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé pour protéger l'épiderme des agressions de l'environnement par un traitement topique avec des agents actifs en une quantité telle qu'elle provoque la formation multiple de protéines de choc thermique dans les cellules de la peau.
EP01962725A 2000-06-20 2001-06-09 Procede de protection de l'epiderme Withdrawn EP1292277A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP01962725A EP1292277A1 (fr) 2000-06-20 2001-06-09 Procede de protection de l'epiderme

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP00440187A EP1166765A3 (fr) 2000-06-20 2000-06-20 Procédé pour protéger la peau humaine
EP00440187 2000-06-20
EP01962725A EP1292277A1 (fr) 2000-06-20 2001-06-09 Procede de protection de l'epiderme
PCT/EP2001/006543 WO2001097770A1 (fr) 2000-06-20 2001-06-09 Procede de protection de l'epiderme

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1292277A1 true EP1292277A1 (fr) 2003-03-19

Family

ID=8174137

Family Applications (2)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP00440187A Withdrawn EP1166765A3 (fr) 2000-06-20 2000-06-20 Procédé pour protéger la peau humaine
EP01962725A Withdrawn EP1292277A1 (fr) 2000-06-20 2001-06-09 Procede de protection de l'epiderme

Family Applications Before (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP00440187A Withdrawn EP1166765A3 (fr) 2000-06-20 2000-06-20 Procédé pour protéger la peau humaine

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US (1) US20030138502A1 (fr)
EP (2) EP1166765A3 (fr)
JP (1) JP2003535881A (fr)
AU (1) AU2001283850A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2001097770A1 (fr)

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FR2842420B1 (fr) * 2002-07-16 2006-07-14 Rocher Yves Biolog Vegetale Composition cosmetique comprenant de l'ubiquitine
DE10329004A1 (de) * 2003-06-27 2005-01-13 Kaanya Cosmetics Gmbh Kosmetisches Verfahren zur Verminderung sichtbarer Alterungszeichen der Haut
US20050118124A1 (en) * 2003-12-01 2005-06-02 Reinhart Gale M. Compositions for treating keratinous surfaces
JP4562536B2 (ja) * 2005-01-27 2010-10-13 株式会社ノエビア 皮膚外用剤
WO2008140440A1 (fr) * 2005-12-07 2008-11-20 Mmp International Development And Manufacturing Solutions de flavonoïdes stables
FR2924613B1 (fr) * 2007-12-10 2012-12-21 Oreal Utilisation cosmetique de proteines de type hsp27.
EA019746B1 (ru) 2009-09-24 2014-05-30 Юнилевер Нв Противомикробная композиция, содержащая эвгенол, терпинеол и тимол, и способ дезинфицирования поверхности
EP2648681B1 (fr) 2010-12-07 2015-01-07 Unilever N.V. Composition de soins buccaux
JP5520246B2 (ja) * 2011-02-25 2014-06-11 株式会社ファンケル アトピー性皮膚炎の検査方法
BR112014009479B8 (pt) 2011-11-03 2019-01-29 Unilever Nv composição líquida de limpeza pessoal e método de desinfecção da superfície externa
RU2495928C2 (ru) 2012-01-30 2013-10-20 Сергей Юрьевич Лешков Средство для стимуляции синтеза белков теплового шока hsp 70 в клетках человека и животных; косметическое средство для стимуляции репаративных процессов; косметическое средство для снижения побочных эффектов агрессивных косметологических процедур; биологически активная добавка; пищевой продукт; способ снижения побочных эффектов агрессивных косметологических процедур

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EP0576420B1 (fr) * 1991-03-21 1995-05-31 Parfums Christian Dior Nouveau derive de l'acide cafeique, l'oraposide, composition cosmetique ou pharmaceutique, notamment dermatologique le contenant
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US20030138502A1 (en) 2003-07-24
EP1166765A2 (fr) 2002-01-02
EP1166765A3 (fr) 2002-05-02
WO2001097770A1 (fr) 2001-12-27
AU2001283850A1 (en) 2002-01-02

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