EP1236421B2 - Applicator, especially brush, for applying a product on keratinous fibres - Google Patents

Abstract

The mascara applicator brush is curved about two non-parallel axes (C1,C2). It is made by bending the core (11) composed of two lengths of twisted wire forming spirals between which are retained bristle tufts.

Description

The present invention relates to a device for applying a cosmetic or care product to keratinous fibers, in particular for applying mascara to the eyelashes.

Many brushes are known having a rectilinear core formed by two lengths of twisted wire, maintaining between them tufts of bristles.

Also known are brushes whose core is curved, having been bent around an axis. In these known brushes curved core, the entire core extends in the same plane of curvature.

There is a need to further improve the existing brushes and the quality of the makeup obtained, especially in terms of ergonomics, product loading, elongation, bending, penetration of the hairs in the eyelashes and separation of the latter.

US 5,937,870 discloses a brush and a method according to the preamble of claims 1 and 23, respectively.
US 4,561,456 discloses a brush according to the preamble of claim 29.

The invention achieves this by means of a new brush for applying a product to the keratinous fibers, in particular for applying mascara to the eyelashes, according to claim 1, curved around at least two non-parallel axes between them. The brush comprises a core having at least a portion from which the bristles extend. This portion is curved around at least two axes not parallel to each other.

The brush according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a product loading of the bristles inhomogeneous thanks to the fact that at least some parts of the brush are off-axis with respect to the axis of the shaft and therefore with respect to the axis of the shaft. 'wiper.

This allows the user to benefit from the brush a stock of product to load the eyelashes locally with an additional amount of product and it also allows him to have on the brush more vigorously drained parts, effective to separate the eyelashes , especially small eyelashes located at the ends of the eyelid.

It is also possible thanks to the invention to provide a particularly ergonomic brush, that is to say, makeup eyelashes in a satisfactory manner in many positions of the brush relative to the latter.

The brush according to the invention makes it possible, thanks to the curvature of the portion of the core which carries the bristles, to print to the bristles when the brush is driven in rotation about the axis of the shaft, a movement of lateral oscillation favoring their penetration through the eyelashes and the management of these.

Finally, the brush according to the invention has a profile that varies when it is rotated about the axis of the rod, so that the effects produced by the brush on the eyelashes are different depending on the region of the brush. contact with the eyelashes.

It is thus possible to have a brush having different parts capable of exerting specific actions on the eyelashes.

The curvature given to the core will be chosen according to the nature of the product, the desired application characteristics and the orientation that is desired to give the hair relative to the eyelashes at the time of application.

The axes around which the soul is curved can extend in perpendicular directions, and be intersecting or not. They may belong to planes of symmetry for certain portions of the brush.

The brush may be made by bending the core of a blank of symmetrical envelope surface of revolution over at least part of its length, so as to change on this part the geometry of said envelope surface.

The brush may also be made from a blank on which one or more notches and / or one or more facets have been cut, the latter being able to be substantially plane, to be parallel to the rectilinear core of the blank or to make a angle with it.

When notches are made, they may have in cross section a concave shape to the outside.

It is possible to produce on the blank an odd number of facets or notches, for example three facets or notches, which gives the body of the brush, over at least a part of its length, a cross section of generally prismatic shape, in particular triangular .

The number of facets or notches can still be different.

The blank which serves to produce the brush according to the invention by twisting the core may have a cross section varying over at least a portion of the length of the web in a non-homothetic manner, the cross section being in addition, the where appropriate, after curvature of the core about a first axis, at least at a non-symmetrical point with respect to a plane perpendicular to the curvature plane of the soul at this point.

By "non-homothetic" it should be understood that two cross-sections taken at different positions along the web are not enlargements of each other, the ratio of dimensions from one section to the other n not being constant regardless of the direction around the axis of the soul.

In a particular embodiment, the cross section of the brush is unsymmetrical with respect to a plane perpendicular to the plane of curvature on at least a portion of the brush along which the cross section varies non-homothetically.

The brush according to the invention, when the core has been straightened and made rectilinear for the purposes of observation, may have a portion provided with at least one facet or notch whose width passes through a maximum of one axial end facet or notch to the other.

The brush may be made from a blank having a general shape of peanut, with in a particular embodiment at least one substantially flat facet on one side of the brush, for example at least three substantially flat facets, arranged in a triangle around of the axis of the soul.

The brush may also be made from a blank having a general shape of shell, buoy, fish, rugby ball or diabolo, this list is not limiting.

In particular, the blank from which the brush is made may have a variable cross section which for example passes through at least one extremum between the two axial ends of the brush.

The blank can be machined to form facets or notches before twisting the core.

The core may be eccentric on at least a portion of the length of the brush, before or after twisting of the core.

The soul can be a twisted soul, with left or right steps, for example left-handed, as described in the application FR-A-2,701,198 .

In a left-handed brush, the branches of the core are twisted by turning to the left to form turns which, viewed along the axis of the core from the end fixed in the stem, rotate clockwise when we move from the stem to the free end of the brush.

The core is advantageously curved, when the brush is stepping to the left, so as to reduce the inclination of the helical layers formed by the bristles relative to the axis of the rod as and when it is away from the stem, which improves the separation of the eyelashes at the ends of the eyelid, increasing the angle between the eyelashes and said plies.

When the brush is stepping to the right, the curvature of the core can also make it possible to modify the orientation of the plies of hair in order to obtain the desired result for the makeup.

Other types of bristle supports may be used, and in particular the brush may be molded integrally with the bristles.

The brush may comprise bristles of different lengths, in particular shorter bristles contained in the volume delimited by the envelope surface defined by the larger hairs.

The bristles may receive any conventional treatment for example to form rounded heads or forks at the ends.

It is possible to use a mixture of bristles, and bristles of any kind, hollow, with a capillary groove, with preferential deformation zones, twisted, flat, this list not being limiting.

The cross section of the brush may have notches on at least a portion of the length of the brush.

The axis of the brush can make an angle near the rod. When the core is twisted, the core can be bent in the vicinity of the portion implanted in the rod.

When the end of the brush opposite the rod is eccentric with respect to the axis of the rod, and the brush passes through a relatively rigid wiper adapted to the diameter of the rod, the brush may bend to the passage of the wiper and from the latter crossed, resume an initial configuration by performing a transverse movement that can have the effect of shearing a possible drop of product present at the end of the brush. This reduces the risk of a drop of product at the free end of the brush, such a drop being likely to be troublesome during application.

1. a) réaliser une brosse à âme rectiligne,
2. b) incurver l'âme autour d'un premier axe,
3. c) incurver l'âme autour d'un deuxième axe non parallèle au premier.

The subject of the invention is also a process for manufacturing a brush for applying product to keratin fibers, in particular mascara on the eyelashes, according to claim 23, comprising the following steps:

1. a) make a rectilinear brush,
2. b) curving the soul around a first axis,
3. c) curving the soul around a second axis not parallel to the first.

• soit ladite face latérale concave ou convexe lorsqu'elle était initialement sensiblement plane, ou sensiblement plane lorsqu'elle était initialement concave ou convexe,
• soit rendre ladite arête courbe lorsqu'elle était sensiblement rectiligne, ou sensiblement rectiligne lorsqu'elle était initialement courbe.

The starting brush of step a) may have at least one substantially flat, concave and / or convex lateral face or a substantially rectilinear or curved edge and the curvature imparted to the core in step b) or c) may aim to make:

• either said concave or convex lateral face when it was initially substantially flat, or substantially flat when it was initially concave or convex,
• or rendering said edge curved when it was substantially rectilinear, or substantially rectilinear when it was initially curved.

The core may in particular be curved in step b) or c) in a plane of curvature which constitutes a median plane of symmetry for said face or which contains said edge.

The starting brush used to make the brush of step a) may have a symmetrical shape of revolution or not, including cylinder, peanut, buoy, fish, diabolo, rugby ball, one or more facets or notches which can further be cut in this starting brush.

The blank whose core undergoes the first twist in step b) may have a non-symmetrical shape with respect to a median plane, this median plane may be perpendicular to the core or contain the axis of the latter.

The blank may further comprise a non-rectilinear edge when viewed in a direction perpendicular to the axis of the shank and the twisting performed at step b) or c) may have the effect of making said edge substantially straight or at least partially straighten it.

The brush may have a non-constant curvature along its length at the end of step b) and before step c), and in particular comprise a rectilinear portion and a curved portion.

The invention also relates to a brush obtained by the method as defined above.

The invention also relates to a makeup device comprising such a brush.

In particular, this makeup device may comprise a container containing a supply of product, a wiper and an applicator provided at one end with a gripping member and at the other end with the brush.

• une âme incurvée autour d'au moins deux axes non parallèles,
• une pluralité d'éléments d'application s'étendant à partir de l'âme, ladite pluralité étant configurée pour appliquer le produit sur les fibres kératiniques. Les éléments d'application peuvent être, par exemple, des poils ou des dents.

The subject of the invention is also an applicator for applying a product to keratinous fibers, in particular eyelashes, according to claim 22, comprising:

• a curved core around at least two non-parallel axes,
• a plurality of application members extending from the core, said plurality being configured to apply the product to the keratinous fibers. The application elements may be, for example, bristles or teeth.

• la figure 1 est une vue schématique en perspective d'une ébauche de brosse à partir de laquelle peut être réalisée une brosse conforme à l'invention,
• la figure 2 illustre le cintrage de l'ébauche de la figure 1 autour d'un premier axe,
• la figure 3 représente une brosse conforme à l'invention, obtenue après cintrage de l'âme de la brosse de la figure 2 autour d'un deuxième axe, non parallèle au premier,
• la figure 4 représente une brosse à âme déjà incurvée autour d'un premier axe et à partir de laquelle peut être réalisée une brosse conforme à l'invention,
• la figure 5 représente une brosse conforme à l'invention, obtenue par cintrage de l'âme de la brosse de la figure 4 autour d'un deuxième axe non parallèle au premier,
• la figure 6 représente une ébauche à partir de laquelle peut être réalisée une brosse conforme à l'invention, cette ébauche comportant une encoche,
• les figures 7 à 9 sont des sections transversales de la brosse de la figure 6 selon VII-VII, VIII-VIII et IX-IX respectivement,
• la figure 10 représente la brosse de la figure 6 après cintrage de l'âme autour d'un premier axe,
• la figure 11 représente une brosse conforme à l'invention, obtenue par cintrage de l'âme de la brosse de la figure 10 autour d'un deuxième axe, non parallèle au premier,
• la figure 12 est une vue schématique en perspective d'une ébauche en forme de cacahuète pouvant servir à réaliser une brosse selon l'invention,
• la figure 13 représente une brosse conforme à l'invention obtenue à partir de l'ébauche de la figure 12,
• les figures 14 à 17 représentent de manière schématique d'autres formes de départ à partir desquelles peuvent être réalisées des brosses conformes à l'invention,
• les figures 18 à 21 représentent respectivement les brosses obtenues après cintrage de l'âme autour d'un premier axe,
• la figure 22 est une vue schématique en perspective de l'ébauche de la figure 16, sur laquelle ont été taillées des facettes,
• la figure 23 est une section transversale schématique selon XXIII-XXIII de la figure 22,
• la figure 23A est une vue analogue à la figure 23, illustrant une variante de réalisation,
• la figure 24 représente la brosse de la figure 22 après cintrage de l'âme autour d'un premier axe,
• la figure 25 représente la brosse de la figure 6 sur laquelle ont été réalisées plusieurs encoches,
• la figure 26 est une section transversale schématique selon XXVI-XXVI de la figure 25,
• la figure 26A est une vue analogue à la figure 26, illustrant une variante de réalisation,
• la figure 27 représente de manière schématique un dispositif de conditionnement et d'application comportant un applicateur muni d'une brosse conforme à l'invention,
• la figure 28 représente de manière schématique la brosse de la figure 3, avec l'âme torsadée à gauche, en cours d'application de produit sur les cils, seule une partie des nappes définies par les extrémités des poils étant représentée,
• la figure 29 représente les différents angles entre une nappe hélicoïdale, un cil et l'axe de l'âme, dans une brosse à pas à gauche,
• la figure 30 est une vue analogue à la figure 29, pour une brosse à pas à droite,
• la figure 31 représente une section transversale à crans,
• la figure 32 est une vue de côté d'une brosse ayant une âme torsadée non contenue dans un plan, de section transversale de forme générale triangulaire,
• la figure 33 est une vue de côté de la brosse de la figure 32 après rotation de la brosse autour de l'axe de la tige d'un quart de tour environ,
• les figures 34 et 35 illustrent différentes possibilités d'utilisation d'une brosse à âme courbe selon l'invention,
• la figure 36 représente partiellement et de manière schématique une brosse moulée d'un seul tenant,
• les figures 37 et 38 représentent d'autres exemples de brosses de départ avant torsion de l'âme,
• la figure 39 représente partiellement et schématiquement une âme coudée au niveau de l'extrémité adjacente à la tige, et
• la figure 40 représente la brosse de la figure 3 avec des vecteurs directeurs de l'âme et de la tige.

The present invention will be better understood on reading the detailed description which follows, of nonlimiting examples of implementation, and on examining the appended drawing, in which:

• the figure 1 is a schematic perspective view of a brush blank from which can be made a brush according to the invention,
• the figure 2 illustrates the bending of the draft of the figure 1 around a first axis,
• the figure 3 represents a brush according to the invention, obtained after bending the core of the brush of the figure 2 around a second axis, not parallel to the first,
• the figure 4 represents a core brush already curved about a first axis and from which can be made a brush according to the invention,
• the figure 5 represents a brush according to the invention, obtained by bending the core of the brush of the figure 4 around a second axis not parallel to the first,
• the figure 6 represents a blank from which can be made a brush according to the invention, this blank having a notch,
• the Figures 7 to 9 are cross sections of the brush the figure 6 according to VII-VII, VIII-VIII and IX-IX respectively,
• the figure 10 represents the brush of the figure 6 after bending the soul around a first axis,
• the figure 11 represents a brush according to the invention, obtained by bending the core of the brush of the figure 10 around a second axis, not parallel to the first,
• the figure 12 is a schematic perspective view of a peanut-shaped blank that can be used to make a brush according to the invention,
• the figure 13 represents a brush according to the invention obtained from the outline of the figure 12 ,
• the Figures 14 to 17 schematically represent other starting forms from which can be made brushes according to the invention,
• the Figures 18 to 21 represent respectively the brushes obtained after bending the core around a first axis,
• the figure 22 is a schematic perspective view of the draft of the figure 16 , on which facets were cut,
• the figure 23 is a schematic cross section according to XXIII-XXIII of the figure 22 ,
• the Figure 23A is a view similar to the figure 23 , illustrating an embodiment variant,
• the figure 24 represents the brush of the figure 22 after bending the soul around a first axis,
• the figure 25 represents the brush of the figure 6 on which several notches have been made,
• the figure 26 is a schematic cross section according to XXVI-XXVI of the figure 25 ,
• the figure 26A is a view similar to the figure 26 , illustrating an embodiment variant,
• the figure 27 schematically shows a packaging and application device comprising an applicator provided with a brush according to the invention,
• the figure 28 schematically represents the brush of the figure 3 with the twisted core left, during product application on the eyelashes, only a portion of the plies defined by the ends of the hairs being shown,
• the figure 29 represents the different angles between a helical layer, an eyelash and the axis of the core, in a left-handed brush,
• the figure 30 is a view similar to the figure 29 , for a right step brush,
• the figure 31 represents a cross section with notches,
• the figure 32 is a side view of a brush having a twisted core not contained in a plane, of generally triangular cross section,
• the figure 33 is a side view of the brush of the figure 32 after rotating the brush about the shaft axis about a quarter of a turn,
• the Figures 34 and 35 illustrate different possibilities of using a curved core brush according to the invention,
• the figure 36 represents partially and so schematic a molded brush in one piece,
• the Figures 37 and 38 represent other examples of starting brushes before torsion of the soul,
• the figure 39 partially and schematically represents a bent core at the end adjacent to the rod, and
• the figure 40 represents the brush of the figure 3 with guiding vectors of the soul and the stem.

We will describe with reference to Figures 1 to 3 a first example of implementation of the invention.

The finished brush 10 is shown in FIG. figure 3 .

It is seen that it comprises a core 11 formed in the example described by two lengths of twisted wire, forming turns between which are retained tufts of hair, which have not been represented on the Figures 1 to 3 for the sake of clarity.

Only the envelope surface 14 defined by the free ends of the bristles has been shown.

The core 11 is connected at one end to a rod 13, of axis Y.

In the embodiment described, this rod 13 is made of plastic and the core 11 is inserted by force into a housing provided at its distal end.

The envelope surface 14 of the blank shown in FIG. figure 1 is formed by the meeting of a frustoconical distal end portion 14a, of the same axis X as the core 11, initially rectilinear, and a cylindrical portion 14b of revolution about the axis X.

We go from the draft of the figure 1 with the brush of the figure 2 by bending the portion of the core 11 having the bristles around a first axis C ₁ .

This axis C ₁ is contained in the example described in a median plane of the outline of the figure 1 , perpendicular to the X axis, cutting the soul mid-length of the brush.

After curvature of the core 11, the portion 14a remains frustoconical while the portion 14b becomes toric.

The soul 11 of the brush of the figure 2 is contained in a plane of curvature perpendicular to the axis C ₁ .

To go from the brush of the figure 2 with the brush according to the invention shown in figure 3 , the portion of the core 11 carrying the bristles is given an additional curvature out of the initial plane of curvature, by bending it around an axis C ₂ perpendicular to the axis C ₁ . Of course, it is not beyond the scope of the present invention that the C ₂ axis is secant or not to the axis C ₁ and perpendicular or not to it. Thus, the axis C ₂ may not belong to the plane of curvature of the brush of the figure 2 but make an angle with it.

It will be noted that the proximal end portion 10a of the brush 10 according to the invention, shown in FIG. figure 3 , is located substantially in the extension of the Y axis of the rod 13, so that it is dewatered in a relatively homogeneous manner.

The brush 10 has a distal end portion that has a more complex shape and will be dewatered in a non-homogeneous manner.

More precisely, the eccentric region 10b of this distal end portion furthest from the Y axis will be wiped relatively vigorously while the diametrically opposite region 10c will be dewatered less vigorously, if not more, because very close to the Y axis and remote from a distance of the Y axis less than or equal to the diameter of the wiper orifice or hardly greater than it.

The user thus has on the same brush at the same time a large reserve of product, useful for making local contributions of product on the eyelashes, and a well wrung part for combing and separating the eyelashes.

It will be noted, moreover, that when the product is applied to the eyelashes by brushing a rotational movement about the Y axis of the rod 13, there is an oscillation of the bristles of the eccentric region 10b, transversely to the Y axis, which can facilitate their penetration between the eyelashes and improve the care of the latter.

In the example of the figure 3 the radius of curvature of the core 11 is relatively large.

It is possible, without departing from the scope of the present invention, to bend the core with a smaller radius of curvature, so as to form a broken line for example.

For example, there is shown on the figure 5 a brush 20 obtained from a cylindrical blank such as that shown in FIG. figure 1 , the core 11 having been bent a first time with a relatively small radius of curvature about a first axis Ci to form two straight segments as shown in FIG. figure 4 , one proximal, the other distal. Then, the distal segment is subjected to a second curvature about an axis C ₂ , so as to orient the distal end portion of the brush in a direction extending out of the curvature plane of the brush of the brush. figure 4 .

The brush 20 shown in FIG. figure 5 has a proximal end portion 20a which is substantially in the axis of the rod 13 which will therefore be dewatered homogeneously and a distal end portion 20b offset from the Y axis, which will be dewatered in a manner not homogeneous, like the eccentric region 10b of the brush 10 of the figure 3 .

In the examples that have been described with reference to Figures 1 to 5 , the starting brush has a symmetrical general shape of revolution.

It is not beyond the scope of the present invention when a brush according to the invention is produced from a blank which has a more complex initial shape, and which in particular comprises one or more facets or notches and / or presents on at least part of its length a non-circular cross section, for example substantially prismatic, in particular triangular.

By way of illustration, reference will now be made to Figures 6 to 11 the manufacture of a brush 30, shown in the finished state at the figure 11 , from a draft represented in figure 6 , having a notch 31.

The notch 31 has been made in a starting brush whose body is cylindrical of revolution, for example that represented in FIG. figure 1 .

The bottom 14d of the notch 31 is defined by a portion of cylindrical surface, of director constituted by an arc of a circle contained in the plane of the figure 6 and generatrix perpendicular to the plane of the figure 6 .

Only a few hairs 12 retained between the turns of the soul 11 have been schematically represented in the figure 6 , for the sake of clarity.

The envelope surface of the brush of the figure 6 is defined by the reunion of the frustoconical envelope surface 14a and an envelope surface 14c, cylindrical of revolution elsewhere than at the bottom 14d of the notch 31.

Representatives Figures 7 to 9 different cross sections of the brush the figure 6 according to section planes VII-VII, VIII-VIII and IX-IX.

To achieve the brush 30 according to the invention, it is first subject to the core 11 of the brush of the figure 6 a first twist around an axis perpendicular to the plane of the figure 6 , located on the side opposite the notch 31, near a median plane of symmetry for the notch 31, perpendicular to the axis X of the core.

This torsion has the effect of smoothing the notch 31 and give the brush, on the side diametrically opposed to the notch 31, a concave shape to the outside.

Then to go from the brush of the figure 10 with the brush 30 shown in figure 11 , the core 11 undergoes a second twist about an axis C ₂ parallel to the plane of the figure 10 , that is to say parallel to the plane of curvature of the core 11 of the brush of this figure.

The axis C ₂ is in the example described contained in a plane perpendicular to the core 11 and cut the latter to about a quarter of the length of the brush from its free end.

It is understood that one can leave, to achieve a brush according to the invention, blanks that can have very different shapes.

In particular, it is possible to make the brush 40 of the figure 13 starting from a sketch represented in the figure 12 , having a general shape of peanut, that is to say a symmetrical general shape of revolution with a diameter passing through a minimum between two bulging portions, one proximal adjacent to the rod 13 and the other distal located on the side from the free end of the brush.

The twists that were made to the soul 11 of the draft of the figure 12 to arrive at the brush 40 are in the example described the same as that which is made to the soul 11 to go from the blank of the figure 1 with the brush 10 of the figure 3 .

The blank 50 shown in figure 14 has a general shape of shell, being non-symmetrical with respect to a median plane P perpendicular to the core 11, cutting the latter at mid-length of the brush.

The blank 50 has a generally symmetrical shape of revolution about the axis X of the core 11, rectilinear, and passes through a maximum diameter at a circle 51 of larger diameter.

The body of the brush is frustoconical, connecting by its base coincides with the circle 51 of larger diameter at the distal end portion of the brush, of ogival shape.

The blank 60 shown in figure 15 has a general shape of buoy, being symmetrical about the axis X of the core 11, rectilinear.

Its envelope surface is defined by two frustoconical portions 61 and 62 contiguous by their base 63 of larger diameter.

The blanks 70 and 80 represented at Figures 16 and 17 have a general shape of fish, and are symmetrical of revolution around the axis X of the soul 11, rectilinear.

The diameter of the brush 70 is maximum at a larger diameter circle 71 located about a quarter of the length of the brush from the free end thereof.

The diameter of the brush 70 passes through a minimum at a narrowed portion 72, located between the larger diameter circle 71 and the end 73 of the brush adjacent to the shank 13, substantially three-quarters of the length. of the brush, in the illustrated example.

The blank 80 shown in figure 17 differs from that shown in figure 16 in particular by the shape of the distal end portion of the brush, located between the circle 81 of larger diameter and its free end, frustoconical, and in that the diameter of the brush decreases substantially linearly between the circle 81 and the narrowed part 82.

The blank 120 shown in figure 37 has a general shape of diabolo, with a diameter that passes through a minimum between the two axial ends of the brush.

The blank 130 shown in FIG. figure 38 has a general shape of rugby ball.

Brushes according to the invention are produced from the blanks represented on the Figures 14 to 17 , 37 and 38 , by bending the soul 11 around at least two non-parallel axes between them.

The first twist given to the core may be intended to straighten at least partially a non-rectilinear edge of the blank, to make it rectilinear or less hollow.

It can be a lower or upper edge of the blank when the latter is observed in a direction perpendicular to the axis X of the core 11.

The edge concerned may be for example the upper edge 53 of the blank of the figure 14 in the vicinity of the circle 51 of larger diameter, this edge 53 being formed by the meeting of an ellipse arc 55 and a generatrix 54 of the body of the blank.

The first twist may result in straightening the upper edge 53 so as to bring part of the arc 55 into the axis of the generator 54, as shown in FIG. figure 18 .

In the case of the draft of the figure 15 , one of the two twists impressed on the core may result in bringing the generatrices 64 and 65 constituting the upper edge of the blank substantially in the extension of one another, as illustrated in FIG. figure 19 .

In the case of drafts of Figures 16 and 17 , one of the twists may have the effect of smoothing the concave lower edge 74, 84 or greater 75, 85, lower or upper delimiting the narrowed portion 72, 82, as illustrated by the Figures 20 and 21 .

In the case of draft 120 of the figure 37 one of the twists may be used to straighten the recessed angle-shaped edge 121 at the junction of the two truncated cones, to make it substantially rectilinear.

By machining on the blank, before torsion of the core, one or more facets can be produced.

These facets can be substantially flat, be parallel to the soul 11 or not, and have the effect of notably offsetting the soul.

We have shown figure 22 the draft of the figure 16 on which three facets have been cut 76.

These facets 76 are substantially flat, parallel to the core 11, and extend only on the bulged part of the brush.

They give this swollen part, in cross section, a triangular shape as seen on the figure 23 .

Alternatively, notches 76 'could be made on the brush instead of the facets 76, as shown in FIG. Figure 23A .

These notches 76 'may have an outwardly concave shape in cross-section as shown in the drawing.

The draft of the figure 22 may be curved around a first axis C ₁ so as to deform its proximal portion, and in particular straighten the lower edge and further curvature the upper edge, as illustrated in FIG. figure 24 .

The second twist, around the axis C ₂ , may for example have the effect of making concave or convex one of the facets 76.

The axis C ₂ can thus extend in a plane perpendicular to the core 11 and be parallel to the plane of a facet 76.

Representatives Figures 25 and 26 a draft which differs from that shown in figure 6 in that it comprises three notches 31 and no longer one, which gives the brush, when observed in cross-section, a cross section of generally triangular shape, as shown in FIG. figure 26 .

In the example of Figures 25 and 26 , the notches 31 have in cross section a flat bottom 14d. Alternatively, they could be replaced by notches 31 'with bottom 14d concave outwards, as shown in FIG. figure 26A .

The notches 31 'have a concave profile when they are observed in a direction perpendicular to the core 11, whereas the notches 76' have a straight profile when they are observed in a direction perpendicular to the core 11.

We have shown figure 27 a device 100 for packaging and application which comprises a brush according to the invention.

The rod 13 is attached to a cap 101 which serves both as a gripping member and sealing member of the container 102 containing the product M to be applied to the eyelashes, for example a liquid mascara.

The container 102 has an externally threaded neck 103, inside which is fixed a wiper 104 which can be of any known type, being preferably adapted to wipe the rod 13 at its outlet from the container. The wiper may thus comprise an orifice whose diameter corresponds to that of the rod 13.

Due to the curvature of the core, the brush according to the invention has, when observed in a direction perpendicular to the Y axis of the rod 13, a profile that varies, so that the brush has regions able to perform different actions on the eyelashes.

When the brush is rotated about the Y-axis of the shank 13, the bristles perform a side-swinging movement that can improve their penetration through the lashes and the care of the lashes.

The hairs can be given a particular orientation by appropriately choosing the curvature of the soul.

It should be noted that it is particularly advantageous to start from a left-handed brush, as will be explained by referring to Figures 28 and 29 .

On the figure 28 , the brush of the figure 3 with a twisted soul to the left.

The path of the plies N defined by the ends of the bristles has been schematized by dotted lines, these plies forming an angle ν with a plane perpendicular to the core.

It will be noted on examination of the figure 28 that the angle of the plies N with respect to the axis Y of the stem decreases when one approaches the free end of the brush, which makes it possible to maintain a relatively important angle i between the eyelashes H to the end of the eyelid and N plies, to separate the eyelashes.

In the case where the soul is twisted to the right, as shown in figure 30 one can also play on the curvature given to the soul to orient the plies in the chosen direction.

It is possible to make notches on a brush according to the invention, as illustrated in FIG. figure 31 . On this Figure, we see that the brush has been machined so as to form on at least a portion of its length recesses 110 at its surface, with substantially radial flanks.

We have shown on Figures 32 and 33 a brush according to an exemplary implementation of the invention, the twisted core of which has been bent around at least two non-parallel axes.

It will be noted on examination of the figure 32 that the brush, when viewed from the side in transparency, has regions 140a and 140b with significant openings between the tufts of bristles, and regions 141a and 141b less openwork.

Regions 140a and 141a are diametrically opposed and extend substantially over the first half of the length of the brush from its free end.

When brushing about a quarter of a turn, as shown in figure 33 it is noted that the first upper half 140a has become significantly more perforated while the first lower half 141a is practically no longer. The second upper half 141b has become significantly more perforated than in the case of the figure 32 , and the second lower half 140b has become less openwork.

This reflects the different orientations of the bristles along the brush and makes it possible to visually quite easily characterize certain brushes made according to the invention.

The Figures 34 and 35 illustrate various possibilities of using a brush according to the invention.

We see on the figure 34 that to make up the eyelashes at one end of the eyelid, one can use the brush with a first orientation. To make up the eyelashes at the other end of the eyelid, the brush can be used in a second orientation, different from the first, represented in FIG. figure 35 .

All the examples that have just been given relate to brushes with twisted cores.

It is not beyond the scope of the present invention when the brush is made by injection molding material, especially thermoplastic material, as illustrated in FIG. figure 36 . Such a brush can be made with a straight axis and then deformed hot or alternatively, the brush can be made in the already curved state by giving a shape adapted to the mold.

When the brush has a twisted core, it can be given a curvature near the end fixed in the rod, to form an angle c between the axis of the rod and the axis of the soul at level of the end of the brush adjacent to the rod, as shown on the figure 39 .

The figure 40 picks up the brush from the figure 3 on which there is shown a director vector u of the rod oriented in the direction of the end of the rod connected to the gripping member towards the end of the rod connected to the core.

There is also shown a vector v direction of the direction of the soul at any point of the soul, oriented in the direction of the end of the soul connected to the rod towards the free end of the soul.

The angle formed by u and v is always less than 90 °.

The invention is not limited to the examples which have just been described.

In particular, the core may be curved around more than two axes, for example be curved at S around two parallel axes and then curved around a third axis not parallel to the other two.

The curvature given to the soul could be exaggerated on the drawing for clarity.

It goes without saying that the curvature may be different without departing from the scope of the present invention, and in particular be adapted to the curvature of the eyelid.

Claims (30)

1. A brush (10; 20; 30; 40) for applying a substance to keratinous fibers, in particular for applying mascara to the eyelashes, the brush comprising a core constituted by two strands of metal wire twisted together forming turns between which tufts of bristles are retained, the core being coupled at one end to a stem made of plastic material, the brush being curved about at least two axes (C₁; C₂), the core being force-fitted into a housing provided at a distal end of the stem, the core being curved about said at least two axes (C1; C2), characterized by the fact that said axes (C1; C2) are not mutually parallel.
2. A brush according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that said axes (C₁; C₂) extend in directions that are perpendicular.
3. A brush according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized by the fact that it is made by curving the core (11) of a blank (50; 60; 70; 80; 120; 130) whose envelope surface is circularly symmetrical over at least a fraction of its length.
4. A brush according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized by the fact that it is made from a blank in which one or more notches (31; 31'; 76') and/or one or more facets (76) have been cut.
5. A brush according to the preceding claim, characterized by the fact that one or more substantially plane facets (76) are cut in the blank.
6. A brush according to claim 4, characterized by the fact that notches (31'; 76') are formed in the blank of cross-section that is outwardly concave in shape (Figure 23A; Figure 26A).
7. A brush according to any one of claims 4 to 6, characterized by the fact that an odd number of facets or of notches are made in the blank, in particular three facets or notches, so as to give the brush a cross-section which is generally prismatic in shape, and in particular triangular, over at least a fraction of its length.
8. A brush according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that the blank used for making the brush of the invention is of cross-section that varies over at least a fraction of the length of the core in not geometrically similar manner.
9. A brush according to any preceding claim, characterized by the fact that after the core of the blank has been curved about a first axis (C₁), the cross-section of the brush is non-symmetrical, at least at one point relative to a plane perpendicular to the plane of curvature of the core at said point.
10. A brush according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that when the core has been straightened out and made rectilinear for observation purposes, the brush presents a portion provided with at least one notch or facet (31) of width that passes through a maximum on going from one end of the facet or notch to the other.
11. A brush according to any preceding claim, characterized by the fact that it is made from a blank that is generally peanut-shaped (Figure 12).
12. A brush according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized by the fact that it is made from a blank that is generally bullet-shaped (Figure 14).
13. A brush according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized by the fact that it is made from a blank that is generally buoy-shaped (Figure 15).
14. A brush according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized by the fact that it is made from a blank that is generally fish-shaped (Figure 16; Figure 17).
15. A brush according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized by the fact that it is made from a blank that is generally hourglass-shaped (Figure 37).
16. A brush according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized by the fact that it is made from a blank that is generally rugby ball-shaped (Figure 38).
17. A brush according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized by the fact that the blank from which the brush is made is of cross-section that passes through at least one extreme value between the two axial ends of the brush.
18. A brush according to any preceding claim, characterized by the fact that the core is off-center over at least a fraction of the length of the brush.
19. A brush according to any preceding claim, characterized by the fact that the core has a left-hand pitch.
20. A brush according to claim 19, characterized by the fact that the core is curved in such a manner as to reduce the angle of inclination of the helical sheets (N) formed by the ends of the bristles relative to the axis of the stem on going away from the stem.
21. A brush according to any preceding claim, characterized by the fact that it has bristles of different lengths, in particular shorter bristles contained within the volume defined by the envelope surface defined by longer bristles.
22. An applicator for applying a product on keratinous fibers, comprising a brush made by injection molding, the brush comprising:

    - a core,

    - a plurality of application elements extending from the core, the plurality of application elements being configured for applying a product on the eyeslashes characterized by the fact that the core is curved about at least two non parallel axes.
23. A method of manufacturing a brush for applying substance to keratinous fibers, in particular for applying mascara to the eyelashes, the method comprising the following steps:

    a) making a brush with a rectilinear core constituted by two strands of metal wire twisted together forming turns between which tufts of bristles are retained, the core being coupled at one end to a stem made of plastic material, the core being force-fitted into a housing of the stem,

    b) curving the core about a first axis (C₁); and

    c) curving the core about a second axis (C₂), characterized by the fact that the second axis (C2) is not parallel to the first axis (C1).
24. A method according to the preceding claim, characterized by the fact that the starting brush in step a) presents at least one substantially plane side face which is concave and/or convex, or an edge that is substantially rectilinear or curved, and by the fact that the curvature imparted to the core in step b) or step c) seeks to cause:

    · said side face to become concave or convex if it was initially substantially plane or to become substantially plane if it was initially concave or convex; or else

    · to cause said edge to become curved if it was initially substantially rectilinear, or substantially rectilinear if it was initially curved.
25. A method according to claim 23, characterized by the fact that the core is curved in step b) or c) in a plane of curvature which constitutes a midplane of symmetry for said face or which contains said edge.
26. A method according to any one of claims 23 to 25, characterized by the fact that the starting brush used for making the brush of step a) is in the shape of a cylinder, a peanut, a buoy, a fish, an hourglass, or a rugby ball.
27. A method according to any one of claims 23 to 26, characterized by the fact that one or more facets or notches are cut in the starting brush of step a).
28. A method according to any one of claims 23 to 26, characterized by the fact that the blank whose core is subjected to the first curving in step b) is of a shape that is not symmetrical about a midplane and presents a non-rectilinear edge (53; 64, 65; 74, 75; 84, 85), and by the fact that the curving performed in step b) or step c) has the effect of making said edge substantially rectilinear or at least of straightening it out at least in part.
29. A makeup device, characterized by the fact that it includes a brush as defined in any one of claims 1 to 21.
30. A makeup device according to the preceding claim, characterized by the fact that it comprises a receptacle (101) containing a supply of substance, a wiper (103), and an applicator provided at one end with a handle member (102) and at its other end with the brush.

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