Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
  • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
  • A41D27/20—Pockets; Making or setting-in pockets
  • A41D27/204—Making or setting-in pockets
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
  • D05B—SEWING
  • D05B33/00—Devices incorporated in sewing machines for supplying or removing the work
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
  • D05B—SEWING
  • D05B39/00—Workpiece carriers

Definitions

• the invention relates to a method for sewing on finished flaps and a method for sewing on raw flats, each with a pocket on a sewing material part using a sewing unit with a sewing machine and a guide device having a sewing material holder.
• prefabricated panels have a folded end edge, while raw panels contain an unfolded, open and therefore raw end edge that tends to fray.
• This difference also requires different sewing methods.
• Ready-to-use flaps are always sewn onto the sewing material part in an alignment position that corresponds to the later position of use, which can be a shirt part, a trouser part or a jacket or coat part.
• raw flats are first positioned in an orientation position rotated by 180 ° with respect to the later use position, then fastened to the sewing material part with a first seam located near the raw final edge, then folded over this seam into the use position and finally sewn onto the sewing material part with a second seam .
• the process for sewing on raw panels is known, for example, from the PFAFF information leaflet "PFAFF Special Service 310-01", print date 3/83.
• the flap is held onto a flap clamping plate either by a suction air holding device or by means of a mechanically acting gripping holding device, the entire Lift the sewing material holder together with flap clamping plate and flap holding device from the sewing material part and the bag and then move horizontally until the flap overlaps the bag in the desired way.
• the flap is then sewn onto the workpiece in its position of use.
• a holding strip (80) sits on the edge of the flap near the first seam to be produced and then holds it in place. As soon as the the first flap seam was formed, the flap is folded into its position of use and held in this position with the aid of a turning strip (66) around the seam or around the holding strip (80), whereupon the second flap seam is formed.
• a further sewing unit which is used for sewing on raw panels.
• This sewing unit has a total of three components arranged on a sewing material holder (40) for the functions of holding and folding the flap, namely a flap clamp (53), a holding strip (77) and a spiral strip (74) referred to as a clamp overhang.
• the procedure for sewing on the flap is essentially the same as for the sewing unit according to the aforementioned DE 19705314 AI, but with the difference that when the flap is folded down into the position of use, it is not around the retaining strip, but as in the manually performed method according to the aforementioned PFAFF -Information is folded over the first flap seam.
• the sewing material holder is moved to a stationary holding device (93) after the pocket is sewn on, which then holds the sewing material part together with the sewn-on pocket by suction air on the support plate of the sewing unit.
• the material holder is then lifted from the material part and the pocket and displaced in the horizontal direction by a predetermined distance and then placed back on the material part and the pocket, whereupon the flap is now in its correct position relative to the pocket.
• the two known sewing units for sewing on a raw flap have one important feature in common, namely that after the pocket is sewn on, the normal holding function of the material holder, ie the clamping function in cooperation with the support plate, is canceled, at least in relation to the material part and the sewn-on pocket to be able to move.
• the sewing unit known from DE 41 24 164 C2 for sewing on ready-made panels ie the two sewing units for sewing on raw panels have the same basic disadvantages, namely on the one hand the large amount of equipment and on the other hand the Danger that the relative position of the flap can shift relative to the sewn-on pocket.
• the invention has for its object to provide a method for sewing on ready-made flaps and a method for sewing on raw flats on a workpiece and a sewing unit for performing these methods, in which undesirable relative displacements between flap, pocket and workpiece are reliably avoided.
• the object is achieved with regard to the method by the work steps specified in the subordinate claims 1 and 5 and with regard to the corresponding sewing units by the characterizing features of claims 2, 6 and 7.
• a sewing unit with the features of claim 2 is provided for carrying out the method according to claim 1. Since the sewing unit has no holding device for the sewing material part and the pocket, which is effective in alternation with the sewing material holder, and also no additional holding device for the flap, the expenditure in terms of the device for carrying out the method is far less than with the sewing unit according to DE 41 24 164 C2.
• Claim 3 specifies a particularly simple development of the sewing unit.
• the further development specified in claim 4 is an alternative embodiment. This differs from the former in that the holding plate for the pocket is particularly flat and that above the holding plate there is a support plate for the flap pressure plate and the flap folding element which can be displaced relative to it.
• a smaller height difference occurs between the edge region of the flap to be sewn on and the other part of the flap lying on the holding plate than in the case of the material holder according to claim 3.
• the smaller height difference has the effect that the flap in edge area to be sewn is deflected only slightly, which is particularly advantageous in the case of stiffer flap material.
• 1 is a view of a sewing unit
• Fig. 2 is a plan view of the sewing unit
• Figure 3 is a plan view of the material holder of the first embodiment after sewing a finished plate.
• FIG. 4 shows a sectional view of the material holder along line IV-IV in FIG. 3 with the pressure plate open for the flap and inserted flap;
• FIG. 5 shows a sectional view corresponding to FIG. 4 after the flap has been sewn on
• Fig. 6 is a sectional view corresponding to Figure 4 after sewing on the bag.
• FIG. 7 shows a plan view of the material holder of the second exemplary embodiment after inserting a finished plate with the pressure plate closed for the flap;
• Fig. 8 is a sectional view of the material holder along line VIII-VIII in Fig. 7 after inserting a flap with the pressure plate open;
• FIG. 9 shows an enlarged detail from FIG. 8.
• Fig. 10 is a sectional view corresponding to FIG. 8, the
• FIG. 11 shows an enlarged detail from FIG. 10;
• FIG. 12 shows a sectional view corresponding to FIG. 8 after the pocket has been sewn on;
• FIG. 13 shows a plan view of the material holder of the second exemplary embodiment before the pocket is sewn on;
• FIG. 14 shows a plan view of the material holder of the third exemplary embodiment after inserting a raw plate with the pressure bar for the flap in the clamping position;
• FIG. 15 is a sectional view of the material holder along line XV-XV in FIG. 14 after inserting a flap with the pressure bar in the open position;
• FIG. 16 is a sectional view corresponding to FIG. 15 after the pocket has been sewn on and after the first flap seam has been formed;
• Fig. 17 is a sectional view corresponding to Fig. 15, showing the situation in which the flap in its
• FIG. 19 shows a sectional illustration of the sewing material holder according to line IXX-IXX in FIG. 18 after the formation of the second flap seam;
• FIG. 20 shows an enlarged detail from FIG. 19
• 21 shows a plan view of the sewing material holder of the fourth exemplary embodiment after inserting a raw plate with the pressure bar for the flap in the closed position;
• FIG. 22 shows a sectional illustration of the sewing material holder along line XXII-XXII in FIG. 21 after inserting a flap with the pressure bar in the open position; 23 shows a sectional illustration corresponding to FIG. 22 after the pocket has been sewn on and after the first flap seam has been formed;
• Fig. 24 is a sectional view corresponding to Fig. 22, showing the situation in which the flap is folded into its position of use.
• the sewing unit shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 which serves for sewing flaps P and pockets T onto a workpiece W, corresponds to the sewing unit described in detail in DE 42 34 968 C1. It therefore also has a workpiece support plate 1, a sewing machine 2 with a driven needle 3 and a downholder 4 that can be moved up and down, and a guide device 5 for a workpiece holder 6, 7, 70 and 110, respectively.
• the sewing unit is also one of the prior art, for. B. assigned by DE 41 13 131 Cl known folding device 8, which serves to fold or fold the edge portions of the pockets T.
• the guide device 5 is designed in a known manner so that it can move the workpiece holder 6 or 7 up and down perpendicular to the surface of the support plate 1. It also serves to move the fabric holder 6, 7, 70 and 110 back and forth between the folding device 8 and the sewing machine 2 and the relative movement of the fabric holder 6, 7, 70 and 110 required for the manufacture of the flap seams and the pocket seams the sewing machine 2 to perform.
• the sewing material holder 6 shown in FIGS. 3 to 6 has a flat holding plate 10 for the one lying on the support plate 1
• the holding plate 10 can be coupled to the guide device 5 with the aid of a coupling strip 11.
• the holding plate 10 contains a sewing slot 12 for the passage of the needle 3 when producing the substantially U-shaped pocket seam N2. With a small distance to the sewing slot 12 is in the holding plate 10 Rectangular recess 13 formed. A cut-out pressure plate 14 for the flap P is assigned to the recess 13. The pressure plate 14 is attached to one end of an arcuate leaf spring 15, the other end of which is attached to the holding plate 10.
• the leaf spring 15 serves not only as a carrier for the pressure plate 14, but also as a joint, so that the pressure plate 14 can be pivoted back and forth between a pressure position according to FIGS. 5 and 6 and an open position according to FIG.
• the leaf spring 15 is biased so that it holds the pressure plate 14 in the pressure position.
• a handle 16 is connected to the leaf spring 15 and enables the operator to pivot the pressure plate 14 into the open position.
• the pressure plate 14 contains a wide sewing slot 17 for the
• Recess 13 each attached a flat stop bar 19.
• the thickness of the stop strips 19 is only shown as large in FIGS. 4 to 6 for the sake of clarity. In reality, it must be smaller than the thickness of the folded-over edge areas of the pocket T.
• a compressed air cylinder 20 is arranged on the holding plate 10 on both sides of the sewing slot 12.
• a flat finger 22 is attached to the piston rod 21 of each cylinder 20 and extends just above the holding plate 10 transversely to the direction of movement of the piston rods 21 over the respective leg of the U-shaped sewing slot 12.
• the mode of operation is as follows:
• the sewing material part W is spread out flat on the support plate below the folding device 8 and aligned with the help of markings (not shown). Then the pocket T is in a known and therefore not explained in the folding device 8 at three Pages u bent and then lowered onto the workpiece W in a pattern-like manner.
• the guide device 5 now moves the workpiece holder 6 into the area of the folding device 8 and takes over the workpiece W and the pocket T placed on it in a known manner.
• the holding plate 10 provided with an adhesive coating presses the workpiece W against the smooth polished surface Surface of the platen 1.
• the operator swivels the pressure plate 14 into its open position with one hand and, with the other hand, inserts the flap P with the edge area to be sewn into the recess 13, aligning the flap edge with the stop bars 19.
• the leaf spring 15 pivots the pressure plate 14 back into the pressure position according to FIG. 5, as a result of which the edge region of the flap P located in the recess 13 is pressed against the sewing material W.
• the remaining part of the flap P lies loosely on the holding plate 10 and the fingers 22. Overall, the flap P is already in a position at this time that corresponds to the later position of use, in which the flap P partially overlaps the pocket T.
• the sewing material holder 6 is transferred by the guide device 5 from the takeover position in the area of the folding device 8 into the sewing position, the holding plate 10 moving the sewing material part W with the pocket T along the support plate 1. Since the workpiece W and the pocket T are frictionally gripped by the holding plate 10, there is neither a relative movement of the two workpiece parts W and T relative to the workpiece holder 10 nor with one another. Furthermore, since the flap P is clamped within the material holder 6, its position relative to the pocket T is also secured during the displacement movement of the material holder 6.
• the material holder 6 is first moved with the sewing slot 17 into the sewing position when the holding-down device 4 is raised. As soon as this is reached, the hold-down device 4 is lowered onto the pressure plate 14, as a result of which the latter is pressed even more firmly against the clamped edge area of the flap P. Following this, the sewing material Part W and the pocket T on the holding plate 10 formed the flap seam Nl and thus the flap P sewn onto the workpiece W.
• the material holder 6 is moved until the flap P is outside the area of the hold-down device 4.
• the compressed air cylinders 20 are then acted upon, whereupon they use the fingers 22 to turn the part of the flap P overlapping the pocket T according to FIG. 6 in the direction of the pressure plate 14.
• the pocket seam N2 is formed and thus the pocket T is sewn onto the workpiece W.
• the workpiece holder 6 remains in its lowered position, in which the holding plate 10 continues to hold the workpiece W and the pocket T in a frictional manner and prevents any relative movement of the workpiece parts W, T and P relative to the workpiece holder 6 and with one another. In this way it is ensured that the flap P and the pocket T are sewn onto the workpiece W exactly in the original mutual alignment position.
• the workpiece holder 7 shown in FIGS. 7 to 13 has an essentially U-shaped frame 30 with a coupling strip 31, with the aid of which the workpiece holder 7 can be coupled to the guide device 5.
• a flat and particularly flat holding plate 32 for the workpiece W and the pocket T placed thereon is fastened.
• the holding plate 32 contains a sewing slot 33 for the passage of the needle 3 when producing the essentially U-shaped pocket seam N2.
• a rectangular recess 34 is formed in the holding plate 32, which extends below the coupling bar 31.
• bearing blocks 35 are fastened on the frame 30 adjacent to the holding plate 32.
• a guide groove 36 is contained, which consists of a parallel to the holding plate 32nd extending middle part 37 and two inclined end regions 38.
• the material holder 7 has a flat carrier plate 39 above the holding plate 32, which has four lugs 41 on its side edges 40, each with a freely rotatable roller 42 projecting beyond the side edge 40.
• the carrier plate 39 is movably mounted on the frame 30 with the aid of the rollers 42 which engage in the corresponding guide grooves 36 of the bearing blocks 35.
• the carrier plate 39 contains a sewing slot 43 for forming the pocket seam N2, which corresponds to the sewing slot 33 in the holding plate 32. At a greater distance from the sewing slot 43, a recess 44 is contained in the carrier plate 39, which essentially corresponds to the size and shape of the flaps P to be sewn on.
• a second, much narrower cutout 45 in the support plate 39 opens into the cutout 44 and extends between the legs of the sewing slot 43.
• the two cutouts 44, 45 are assigned a substantially T-shaped plate 46 which fits into them and which is composed of a web part 47 and a pressure plate 48 for the flap P to be sewn on.
• the plate 46 is held by a leaf spring 49, one half of the leaf spring 49 being fastened to the carrier plate 39 and the other half to the web part 47.
• the leaf spring 49 serves not only as a support for the plate 46, but also as a joint, so that the plate 46 can be pivoted back and forth between a pressure position according to FIG. 12 and an open position according to FIGS. 8 and 10.
• the leaf spring 49 is biased so that it holds the plate 46 or the pressure plate 48 in the pressure position.
• a narrow angle plate 50 is fastened, which has a handle part 51.
• the pressure plate 48 contains a wide sewing slot 52 for the formation of the flap seam Nl.
• the shape and size of this sewing slot 52 corresponds exactly to that of the sewing slot 17 of the first embodiment.
• a wire-shaped folding rod 53 is embedded and fastened in the underside of the carrier plate 39 and runs in the lower region of the recess 44 transversely to the direction of movement of the carrier plate 39.
• a compressed air cylinder 54 is pivotally mounted on the frame 30 on both sides of the carrier plate 39.
• the piston rods 55 are connected via ball joints 56 to driver pieces 57 fastened on the carrier plate 39.
• the method of operation is as follows: As in the first exemplary embodiment, the workpiece W is spread out flat and aligned below the folding device 8. As soon as the pocket T u is bent and placed on the workpiece W, the guide device 5 moves the workpiece holder 7 into the area of the folding device 8 and takes over the two workpiece parts W and T. Here, the holding plate 32 provided on the underside with an adhesive coating presses the workpiece W against the support plate 1. At this point at the latest, the support plate 39 is moved with the aid of the two compressed air cylinders 54 into the position shown in FIGS. 7 and 8, in which the sewing slot 52 for the flap seam N1 is the normal short distance to that in the holding plate 32 formed sewing slot 33 for the pocket seam N2 and the sewing slot 43 contained in the carrier plate 39 for the pocket seam N2 is offset relative to the sewing slot 33.
• the flap P is aligned by the operator on the obtuse-angled boundary edge of the recess 44.
• the edge region of the flap P to be sewn projects beyond the boundary edge of the recess 34 of the holding plate 32 and lies directly on the workpiece W.
• the leaf spring 49 pivots the plate 46 and thus its pressure plate 48 back into the pressure position according to FIG.
• the sewing material holder 7 is then transferred into the sewing position by the guide device 5. Since here the workpiece W and the pocket T are frictionally gripped by the holding plate 32 and the flap P is pressed against the workpiece W by the pressure plate 48 against slipping, the relative position of the workpiece parts W, T and P with respect to one another and with respect to the workpiece holder 7 is secured.
• the material holder 7 is first moved with the sewing slot 52 into the sewing position when the holding-down device 4 is raised. As soon as this is reached, the hold-down device 4 is lowered onto the pressure plate 48, as a result of which the latter is pressed even more firmly against the edge region of the flap P to be sewn on. Following this, the holding plate 32, which is still resting on the workpiece W and the pocket T, remains
• Flap seam Nl formed and thus the flap P sewn onto the workpiece W.
• the material holder 7 is moved so far that the grip part 51 gets under the raised hold-down device 4.
• the carrier plate 39 is displaced relative to the holding plate 32 from the initial position shown in FIGS. 7 and 8 to the sewing position shown in FIGS. 12 and 13.
• This displacement movement is facilitated by the fact that the rollers 42 are pushed upwards at the beginning of the displacement in the left oblique end region 38 of the guide grooves 36 and thereby lift the carrier plate 39 from the holding plate 32, with the result that the carrier plate 39 does not last as long Has contact with the holding plate 32 as long as the rollers 42 move within the central part 37 of the guide grooves 36. Only when, at the end of the displacement movement, the rollers 42 into the right oblique end region 38 of the guide grooves 36 arrive, the carrier plate 39 is lowered again onto the holding plate 32.
• Folding bar 53 is moved at a vertical distance over the seam Nl, there is a larger folding radius than if the folding bar 53 ran closely over the seam Nl. This leads to the fact that the flap P is turned over, in particular when it is used such. B. in work clothes or uniforms made of comparatively stiff material.
• the sewing slot 43 is aligned with the sewing slot 33 and the carrier plate 39 is therefore in the sewing position for the pocket seam N2.
• the grip part 51 lies outside the effective range of the hold-down device 4, so that the leaf spring 49 pivots the plate 46 back into the pressing position and holds it in it.
• the pocket seam N2 is formed and thus the pocket T is sewn onto the workpiece W.
• the workpiece holder 7 remains in its lowered position, in which the holding plate 32 continues to hold the workpiece W and the pocket T in a frictional manner and any relative movement of the workpiece parts W, T and P with respect to that
• the sewing material holder 70 shown in FIGS. 14 to 20 is constructed essentially similarly to the sewing material holder 7 of the second exemplary embodiment. It therefore also has an essentially U-shaped frame 71 with a coupling strip 72, with the aid of which the material holder 70 can be coupled to the guide device 5.
• a flat and particularly flat holding plate 73 for the workpiece W and the pocket T placed thereon is fastened.
• the holding plate 73 contains a sewing slot 74 for the passage of the needle 3 when producing the essentially U-shaped pocket seam Nl. With a small distance from the sewing slot 74, a rectangular recess 75 is formed in the holding plate 73, which extends below the coupling bar 72.
• bearing blocks 76 are fastened on the frame 71 adjacent to the holding plate 73.
• a guide groove 77 is contained, which is composed of a central part 78 running parallel to the holding plate 73 and two inclined end regions 79.
• the material holder 70 has a flat support plate 80 above the holding plate 73, which has on its side edges 81 four lugs 82, each with a freely rotatable roller 83 projecting beyond the side edge 81.
• the carrier plate 80 is movably mounted on the frame 71 with the aid of the rollers 83 which engage in the corresponding guide grooves 77 of the bearing blocks 76.
• a compressed air cylinder 84 is pivotally mounted on the frame 71 on both sides of the carrier plate 80.
• the piston rods 85 are connected via ball joints 86 to driver pieces 87 fastened on the carrier plate 80.
• the carrier plate 80 contains a sewing slot 88 for the formation of the pocket seam NI, which corresponds to the sewing slot 88 in the holding plate 73. At a greater distance from the sewing slot 88, a recess 89 is contained in the carrier plate 80, which serves to receive the open edge K of the raw panel RP to be sewn on.
• the carrier plate 80 contains a crosspiece 90, the edge 91 of which delimits the recess 89.
• the crossbar 90 has a sewing slot 92 for the formation of the second flap seam N3.
• a spring plate 93 is fastened on the crosspiece 90 and has a spring strip 94 which extends through the sewing slot 92 and projects under the underside of the crosspiece 90.
• a second, much narrower cutout 95 opens into the cutout 89 in the carrier plate 80 and extends as far as between the legs of the sewing slot 88.
• a substantially T-shaped plate 96 is assigned to the two recesses 89, 95 and is composed of a web part 97 and a pressure bar 98. The plate 96 is held by a leaf spring 99, one half of the leaf spring 99 being fastened to the carrier plate 80 and the other half to the web part 97.
• the leaf spring 99 serves not only as a support for the plate 96, but also as a joint, so that the plate 96 can be pivoted back and forth between an open position according to FIG. 15 and a pressing position according to FIG. 16.
• the leaf spring 99 is biased so that it holds the plate 96 or the pressure bar 98 in the pressure position.
• a narrow angle plate 100 which has a handle part 101, is fastened on the leaf spring 99.
• the pressure bar 98 contains a sewing slot 102 for the formation of the first flap seam N2.
• the mode of operation is as follows:
• the workpiece W is spread out flat and aligned below the folding device 8. As soon as the pocket T is folded and placed on the workpiece W, the guide device 5 moves the
• Sewing material holder 70 in the area of the folding device 8 and takes over the two workpiece parts W and T.
• the holding plate 73 which is provided with an adhesive coating on the underside, presses the sewing material part W against the support plate 1.
• the support plate 80 is pressed using the two compressed air cylinders 84 moved into the position shown in Figures 14 to 16, in which the Sewing slot 88 for the pocket seam Nl is aligned with the sewing slot 74 in the holding plate 73.
• the main part of the flap RP extends obliquely upwards at a flat angle and lies with the opposite edge on the crosspiece 90.
• the leaf spring 99 pivots the plate 96 back into the pressing position, as a result of which the edge region of the flap RP to be sewn on is pressed against the sewing material part W.
• the sewing material holder 70 is then transferred into the sewing position by the guide device 5.
• the holding-down device 4 When the holding-down device 4 is raised, the material holder 70 is first moved into the sewing position with the overlapping sewing slots 74, 88. As soon as this is reached, the hold-down device 4 is lowered onto the carrier plate 80 and the pocket seam N 1 is first formed. Subsequently, with the holding plate 73 still resting on the workpiece W and the pocket T, the first flap seam N2 is formed through the sewing slot 102 of the pressure bar 98 and the flap RP is thus fastened on the workpiece W.
• the hold-down device 4 is then raised and, by acting on the two compressed air cylinders 84, the carrier plate 80 is shifted to the left relative to the holding plate 73 from the sewing position shown in FIGS. 14 to 16 into the offset position shown in FIGS. 18 and 19.
• This displacement movement is facilitated by the fact that the rollers 83 are pushed upwards at the beginning of the displacement in the right oblique end region 79 of the guide grooves 77 and thereby lift the carrier plate 80 from the holding plate 73, which leads to As a result, the carrier plate 80 has no contact with the holding plate 73 as long as the rollers 83 move within the middle part 78 of the guide grooves 77. Only when the rollers 83 reach the left oblique end region 79 of the guide grooves 77 towards the end of the displacement movement is the carrier plate 80 lowered again onto the holding plate 73.
• the spring bar 94 lowers on the folded edge of the flap RP that has been folded over and keeps it flat, as shown in FIGS. 19 and 20.
• the second flap seam N3 is formed through the sewing slot 92 now in the sewing position, by means of which the flap RP is fastened to the workpiece W in its position of use. Since the originally open edge K is now covered by the flap RP and the second flap seam N3 lies close to the edge K, the edge K is not only invisible but also secured against fraying.
• the material holder 110 shown in FIGS. 21 to 24 is largely identical to the material holder 70 of the third exemplary embodiment. To simplify the description, reference is therefore made to the detailed description of the third exemplary embodiment using the same reference numerals for the components which are identical to one another.
• the material holder 110 accordingly also has a frame 71. On its underside, a holding plate 73 is attached, which contains a sewing slot 74 for the pocket seam Nl and a recess 75.
• a carrier plate 80 Arranged above the holding plate 73 is a carrier plate 80 which can be displaced relative to the holding plate 73 by means of two compressed air cylinders 84 and which has a sewing slot 88 for the pocket seam N1.
• the carrier plate 80 contains a recess 89 which serves to receive the open edge K of the raw plate RP to be sewn on.
• the carrier plate 80 also contains a crossbar 90 which has a sewing slot 92 for the second flap seam N3 and carries a spring plate 93 with a spring strip 94.
• the material holder 110 is identical to the material holder 70. The differences are described below.
• An elongated recess 111 which is located to the side of the two legs of the sewing slot 88, opens into the recess 89.
• a leaf spring 112 is arranged in the area of these two recesses 111, a leg 113 being fastened to the holding plate 73 with the interposition of a thin spacer plate 114.
• the other leg 115 of the leaf spring 112 is attached to the underside of a flat extension 116, which is part of a lever 117 shaped at an obtuse angle.
• the ends of the two levers 117 pointing away from the material holder 110 are connected to one another by a grip strip 118.
• An air cylinder 119 is attached to the other end of each lever 117.
• a holding piece 121 is arranged on each of the piston rods 120.
• the two holding pieces 121 together carry a flat one Pressure bar 122, which, like the pressure bar 98 of the third exemplary embodiment, has a sewing slot 123 for the formation of the first flap seam N2.
• the side surface 124 of the pressure bar 122 which faces the compressed air cylinder 119 and runs transversely to the direction of displacement of the carrier plate 80 is, as can best be seen in FIGS. 22 and 23, bevelled by approximately 45 °.
• the directly opposite side surface 125 of the holding plate 73, which forms a boundary of the recess 75, is also beveled in a corresponding manner, that is to say the two side surfaces 124, 125 run parallel to one another when the pressure bar 122 is in the position shown in FIGS. 23 and 24 location shown.
• the mode of operation is as follows:
• the workpiece W is spread out flat and aligned below the folding device 8.
• the guide device 5 moves the workpiece holder 110 into the area of the folding device 8 and takes over the two workpiece parts W and T.
• the holding plate 73 provided with an adhesive coating presses the workpiece W against the support plate 1.
• the support plate 80 is moved with the aid of the two compressed air cylinders 84 into the position shown in FIGS. 21 to 23, in which the sewing slot 88 for the pocket seam N 1 is aligned with the sewing slot 74 in the holding plate 73.
• the operator actuates the grip strip 118 with one hand, thereby pivoting the pressure strip 122 into its open position and, with the other hand, places the open edge K of the flap RP through the recess 89 in the carrier plate 80 and the recess 75 in the holding plate 73 on the workpiece W.
• the main part of the flap RP extends obliquely upwards at a flat angle and lies with the opposite edge on the crosspiece 90.
• the leaf spring 112 swivels the pressure strip 122 back into the pressure position, as a result of which the edge region of the flap RP to be sewn is pressed against the workpiece W.
• the sewing material holder 110 is then transferred into the sewing position by the guide device 5.
• the sewing material holder 110 is first moved to the sewing position with the overlying sewing slots 74, 88 when the holding-down device 4 is raised. As soon as this is reached, the hold-down device 4 is lowered onto the carrier plate 80 and the pocket seam N 1 is first formed. Following this, with the holding plate 73 still resting on the workpiece W and the pocket T, the first flap seam N2 is formed through the sewing slot 123 of the pressure bar 122 and the flap RP is thus fastened on the workpiece W.
• the hold-down device 4 is then raised and, by acting on the two compressed air cylinders 84, the carrier plate 80 is shifted from the sewing position shown in FIGS. 21 to 23 to the left relative to the holding plate 73 into the offset position. This shifting movement takes place in the same way as described in the third exemplary embodiment.
• the flap RP is facilitated, especially if they such. B. in work clothes or uniforms made of comparatively stiff material.
• the spring bar 94 lowers on the folded edge of the folded flap RP and presses it against the pressure bar 122.
• the two compressed air cylinders 119 acted upon, which then move the pressure bar 122 to the left.
• the sloping side surface 124 of the pressure bar 122 slides over the sloping side surface 125 of the holding plate 73, whereby the pressure bar 122 is lifted onto the holding plate 73.
• the pressure bar 122 is moved so far on the holding plate 73 and thereby in the region of the recess 89 which is also displaced to the left by the displacement of the carrier plate 80, until it is completely removed from the region of the crosspiece 90 or from the recess 75 of the holding plate 73.
• the pressure strip 122 is also pulled out of the fold zone of the flap RP formed in the area of the first flap seam N2, whereupon the spring strip 94 compresses the folded edge of the flap RP folded over.
• the second flap seam N3 is then formed through the sewing slot 92, which is now in the sewing position and through which the flap RP is fastened to the sewing material part W in its position of use. Since the originally open edge K is now covered by the flap RP and the second flap seam N3 lies close to the edge K, the edge K is not only invisible but also secured against fraying.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

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• 1998
  • 1998-12-17 BR BR9814306-9A patent/BR9814306A/pt not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 1998-12-17 JP JP2000525613A patent/JP2001526918A/ja not_active Ceased
  • 1998-12-17 WO PCT/EP1998/008297 patent/WO1999032701A1/de active IP Right Grant
  • 1998-12-17 US US09/215,015 patent/US5970896A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1998-12-17 EP EP98966361A patent/EP1040218A1/de not_active Ceased

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