EP0933032B1 - Shirt collar reinforcing textile interlining or similar piece - Google Patents

Description

The invention relates to a textile support for strengthening a neck shirt or equivalent part, to the application of such a textile support for the reinforcement of a shirt collar or equivalent part, and, finally, to a process of making such a pass.

We already know clothing collars such as shirts, blouses or equivalent parts having a interlining.

We can refer for example to documents FR-A-2,570,577 and FR-A-2609873.

Conventionally, the interlining or reinforcement pieces for the collar shirt are made either woven, for example polyester, or non-woven.

However, the current shirt collars have the disadvantage that the dimensional stability of the cervix cannot be fully guaranteed in time. Indeed, during successive washes of the shirt and therefore of the cervix, the stabilization provided by the reinforcement interlining of the cervix deteriorates, which causes a change in the length of the neck, particularly annoying. This loss of neck length can go up to 1.5 or even 2.5 cm or more.

We also know from the state of the art, reinforcing parts for localized stiffening of textiles (see FR-A-2,531,616), interlining fusible (see FR-A-2,462,456), and, finally, fusible interlining in the form of a woven mesh knit (see FR-A-2.710.078).

We also know the state of the art of the interlining fusible in the form of a woven mesh knit comprising stabilization in the chain direction.

We also know from document EP-0 369 046 a interlining comprising a layer of fibers associated with a knitted yarn knit in which a system of threads of variable elasticity is expected.

We also know chemical treatments of supports textiles, intended to give them or improve their wrinkle-resistant properties (see FR-A-2 727 136).

The problem which is the basis of the invention is to stabilize dimensionally a shirt collar or equivalent piece, taking into account regular maintenance of this piece of clothing including washing and successive ironing.

To this end, the invention uses a textile support for collar shirt or equivalent part, in the form of a sheet of nonwoven fabric reinforced by a knitted fabric comprising a plurality of yarns stabilization, in particular of capstan wires, extending in the direction of the chain, between the columns of meshes.

According to other characteristics, the stabilization wires include capstan threads in the form of simple capstan threads and / or with floats.

According to still other characteristics, the stabilization wires are distributed over at least one of the faces of the textile support.

The knitted fabric is preferably tossed.

The nonwoven fabric web can be made from fibers linked or weakly linked.

Can be used for tying or pre-tying the nonwoven fabric web conventional methods, for example thermal bonding, jet bonding fluid, bonding by needling or pre-needling or chemical bonding.

Generally, the tying or pre-tying process is chosen by depending on the nature of the materials used.

The nonwoven textile web is made from natural fibers, synthetic or artificial.

Alternatively, it can be made from continuous filaments synthetic or artificial, for example based on polyamide, polyester, viscose or mixtures thereof.

The knitted fabric is made from flat yarns and / or fibers, natural, for example cellulosic, synthetic, for example polyester or polyamide, especially polyamide 6 or 6.6, or artificial, for example viscose, or mixtures thereof.

As a variant, the knitted fabric can be made from yarns synthetic textured multifilaments.

Stabilization threads are made from threads and / or fibers flat or textured, natural, synthetic or artificial, such as those described previously, or a mixture thereof.

According to one embodiment, the capstan threads are textured threads, obtained for example by a conventional technique of false twist, in using hot water, steam or hot air, or by air texturing technique.

According to one embodiment, the textile support may include also, on at least one of its faces, a sticky material or fusible intended for its subsequent association with the collar.

According to another aspect, the invention relates to the application of such a support textile to a shirt collar or equivalent part, in order to improve its stability dimensional over time, particularly as a result of washing and ironing successive.

The dimensional stability of the cervix can be improved in its great direction, that is to say the neck or, alternatively, in its direction perpendicular to the great direction of the pass.

According to another aspect, the invention relates to a shirt collar or piece equivalent comprising one or more pieces of fabric and, associated, at least a textile support as described above.

The textile support either functions as interlining, or functions reinforcement of interlining itself associated with the piece or pieces of the collar.

The textile support acting in itself as interlining comprises a coating of sticky or heat-bonded material for its association with the or to the neck pieces.

In the case where the textile support acts as interlining reinforcement, it can be combined with the interlining by heat sealing, simultaneously with fusing the interlining.

Such a interlining is made of cotton or equivalent.

According to a first embodiment, in particular when the dimensional stabilization in the long direction of the neck is sought, the stabilization threads of the textile support are arranged in the long direction of the collar, that is to say the neck.

In this case, the textile support chain extends in the direction of the length of the neck.

According to a second embodiment, in particular when the stabilization in the dimension perpendicular to the great direction of the east pass capstan wires are arranged in the direction perpendicular to the great direction of the pass.

In this case, the textile support chain extends in the direction perpendicular to the direction of the length of the neck.

A collar as just described may include two pieces of fabric, respectively from above and from below, associated with each other and between which is inserted at least one textile reinforcement support.

According to another aspect of the invention, there is provided a method of realization of a collar as just described which includes a step consisting in associate at least one textile support as described with the piece (s) of cervical tissue.

According to a first alternative embodiment, the support is associated textile directly to the piece or pieces of fabric of the collar.

According to a second possible variant, the support is first associated textile with a interlining and then the interlining thus reinforced is associated with the pieces of fabric forming the collar.

• la figure 1 représente une vue schématique, en élévation et à plat, d'un mode de réalisation du support textile de renforcement de l'invention ;
• la figure 2 représente une vue schématique, en élévation et à plat, d'un autre mode de réalisation du support textile de l'invention ;
• les figures 3 et 4 représentent deux vues schématiques en élévation et à plat, d'un col de chemise ou pièce équivalente, incluant un support textile de renforcement de l'invention ; et
• la figure 5 est une vue en coupe partielle, selon la ligne I-I de la figure 3.

The invention will be better understood with the aid of the description which follows, given with reference to the appended drawings in which:

• FIG. 1 represents a schematic view, in elevation and flat, of an embodiment of the textile reinforcement support of the invention;
• FIG. 2 represents a schematic view, in elevation and flat, of another embodiment of the textile support of the invention;
• Figures 3 and 4 show two schematic views in elevation and flat, of a shirt collar or equivalent part, including a textile reinforcement of the invention; and
• FIG. 5 is a partial sectional view along line II of FIG. 3.

The textile support 1 of the invention is in the form of a nonwoven fabric 2 reinforced with a knitted fabric 3 with discarded mesh.

According to the invention, the knitted fabric 3 comprises, distributed over at least one of its faces, capstan wires 4.

The textile support 1 may include capstan yarns 4 on one only from its faces, the other face being substantially smooth.

According to one embodiment, the capstan wires 4 are simple (FIG. 1).

According to another embodiment, the capstan wires 4 can form over all or part of their length a float 5 (Figure 2). Float 5 is the relief obtained on wires when not maintained by all piers 6 of knitting 3.

In the embodiments shown in the figures, a thread capstan is placed between each column of meshes. The number of wires capstan per column of mesh may, however, vary.

For example, it is possible to have a capstan wire every the two, three or four columns of mesh.

It is also possible to have several capstan wires, for example from two to four, between each column of meshes, or all two, three or four columns of mesh.

The capstan wires 4 can be located close to each other, at a distance a of the order of the length of a mesh b .

The length of the floats 5 can be of the order of the length of one to a few meshes b , in particular of the order of two to five meshes.

The capstan wires 4 can be evenly distributed over the textile support 1.

It is however possible to envisage different distributions capstan threads on the textile support, depending on the end use of the product.

According to one embodiment, the capstan wires are produced from 7 yarns introduced into the knitted fabric 3. In this case, the yarns with floats 5 can be made by the passage of these wires 7 on the same side of several rows or knitted stitches constituting knitting 3.

In this embodiment, the wires 7 are introduced using conventional means. Depending on the desired effects, they may be straight or parallel to the knitting columns of knitting, or have piers under them giving the desired layout. When the wires pass on the same side of several rows or throws of stitches constituting knitting 3, i.e. thrown under 6 of these meshes, they acquire a float which gives them a relief.

The capstan threads with floats 5 are made from threads 7 in the direction of the chain and between the meshes, presenting for example a float 5 corresponding to at least two rows or throws of stitches in knitting 3.

According to one embodiment (Figure 2), the floats 5 of two wires neighbors 8, 9 are offset longitudinally. one relative to the other of a length corresponding to the length of a float 5 of a thread.

Alternatively, the floats of two neighboring wires can be arranged while being aligned between them, compared to the rows of meshs.

Simple capstan wires 4 or with floats 5 can be arranged on the side of the nonwoven fabric layer 2 opposite the side comprising the knitted fabric mesh 3.

The sticky or fusible material can be deposited for example, by a coating method, in the form of points or lines, for example a coating method by screen printing type.

The sticky or fusible material is for example one any of those commonly used to laminate reinforcing fabrics on textiles to receive them.

It can be based on vinyl polymers, polyolefin, polyamide, high and low density polyethylene, copolyester, copolyamide, etc.

These substances can be in the form of powder or paste.

The textile support 1 as just described is specially intended for a shirt collar 10 or any other equivalent part and has for function of improving its dimensional stability over time, as a result of its successive washing or ironing.

The neck 10 comprises, in the embodiment shown, two parts, respectively from above 11 and from below 12, associated with each other and between which at least one textile support 1 is inserted (FIG. 3).

The parts 11, 12 are cut so as to present a part 13 called collar stand, intended to be associated by being adjacent to the main part of a garment, and a flap 14.

The two parts 11, 12 are associated with each other by being sewn on the periphery or in combination by heat sealing.

According to a first alternative embodiment, the stability dimensional sought is that in the great direction of this part, referenced D in Figure 3, that is to say in this case the neck.

To ensure this stabilization function, the textile support 1 is arranged on the part 10 with the capstan wires arranged in the front direction be stabilized, in this case direction D.

According to a second embodiment, the dimensional stability sought is the one acting in the direction perpendicular to the large direction of the pass.

To ensure in this case its stabilization function, the support textile 1 is associated with the collar 10 so that the capstan threads are arranged in the direction to be stabilized, in this case the direction perpendicular to the direction D.

According to a first possible embodiment, the textile support 1 makes interlining function. In this case, the textile support 1 comprises the coating of sticky or fusible material.

According to another possible embodiment, the textile support 1 is associated to a interlining 15, which is itself associated with the parts 11, 12.

In the latter case, the support 1 is associated with the interlining 15 by heat sealing.

Such a interlining 15 can be produced, conventionally, by cotton or equivalent.

As a variant, the textile support 1 can be applied as reinforcement on a first layer of the same support 1 bonded to the cervical tissue.

The process for producing a collar as just described consists to include a step of association with the parts 11, 12 of at least one support textile 1.

According to the envisaged embodiments, the textile support 1 is either associated directly to parts 11, 12, or first associated with a interlining 15, which, thus reinforced, is then itself associated with parts 11, 12.

Claims (29)

1. A textile support (1) for reinforcing a shirt collar or an equivalent piece, in the form of a layer of non-woven textile (2) reinforced with a warp knit fabric (3), characterised in that the said support comprises a plurality of stabilisation threads, in particular capstan threads (4), extending in the warp direction, between columns of stitches.
2. A textile support according to Claim 1, characterised in that the stabilisation threads comprise simple capstan threads (4) and/or capstan threads with loose threads (5).
3. A textile support according to Claim 1 or 2, characterised in that the stabilisation threads are distributed over at least one of the faces of the textile support (1).
4. A textile support according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterised in that the capstan threads (4) are situated close to one another, at a distance (a) of around the length of one stitch (b).
5. A textile support according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterised in that the length of the loose stitches (5) is around the length of one to a few stitches (b), in particular around two to five stitches.
6. A textile support according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterised in that the capstan threads (4) are distributed substantially regularly on the support (1).
7. A textile support according to any one of Claims 2 to 6, characterised in that the capstan threads with loose threads (5) are formed from threads (7) disposed in the direction of the warp and between the stitches, having a loose stitch (5) corresponding to at least two rows or layers of stitches on the knitted fabric (3) .
8. A textile support according to any one of Claims 2 to 7, characterised in that the loose stitches (5) of two adjacent threads (8, 9) are offset longitudinally with respect to each other by a length corresponding to the length of one loose stitch (5).
9. A textile support according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, characterised in that the layer of non-woven textile (2) is produced from connected or weakly connected fibres.
10. A textile support according to Claim 9, characterised in that the layer of non-woven textile (2) is produced from natural, synthetic or artificial fibres.
11. A textile support according to Claim 9, characterised in that the layer of non-woven textile (2) is produced from continuous synthetic or artificial filaments.
12. A textile support according to Claim 11, characterised in that the continuous filaments are based on polyamide, polyester, viscose or mixtures of these.
13. A textile support according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, characterised in that the capstan threads (4) are disposed on the side of the layer of non-woven textile (2) opposite to the side comprising the knitted fabric (3).
14. A textile support according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, characterised in that the knitted fabric (3) is produced from natural flat threads and/or fibres, in particular cellulosic, synthetic or artificial, or mixtures of these.
15. A textile support according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, characterised in that the knitted fabric (3) is produced from synthetic textured multifilament threads.
16. A textile support according to any one of Claims 1 to 15, characterised in that the capstan threads (4) are produced from natural, synthetic or artificial flat or textured threads and/or fibres, or mixtures of these.
17. A textile support according to any one of Claims 1 to 16, characterised in that it comprises at least one capstan thread (4) per column of stitches.
18. A textile support according to any one of Claims 1 to 16, characterised in that it comprises at least one capstan thread (4) every two, three or four columns of stitches.
19. A textile support according to Claim 17 or 18, characterised in that it comprises several capstan threads (4), for example two to four, every column of stitches or every two, three or four columns of stitches.
20. A textile support according to any one of Claims 1 to 19, characterised in that it comprises, on at least one of its faces, an adhesive or heat-adhesive material intended for its subsequent association with the collar.
21. A textile support according to Claim 20, characterised in that the adhesive or heat-adhesive material is based on vinyl polymers, polyolefin, polyamide, high- and low-density polyethylene, copolyester or copolyamide.
22. A textile support according to Claim 20 or 21, characterised in that the adhesive or heat-adhesive material is disposed on the support (1) in the form of dots or lines.
23. Application of a textile support according to any one of Claims 1 to 22, characterised in that it concerns the reinforcement of a shirt collar or similar piece in order to improve its dimensional stability over time, along the long direction of the collar or along its direction perpendicular to the long direction of the collar.
24. A shirt collar (10) or similar piece, characterised in that it comprises one or more pieces of cloth and, associated, at least one textile support (1) according to any one of Claims 1 to 22.
25. A collar according to Claim 24, characterised in that it comprises two pieces, respectively top (11) and bottom (12), associated with each other and between which at least one textile support (1) is inserted.
26. A collar according to Claim 24 or 25, characterised in that it comprises a collar bottom (13) intended to be associated whilst being contiguous with the main part of a garment, and a flap (14).
27. A collar according to any one of Claims 24 to 26, characterised in that the support (1) either serves per se as an interlining, or serves as a reinforcement for interlining (15) itself associated with the piece or pieces of the col lar (10).
28. A method of producing a collar according to any one of Claims 24 to 27, characterised in that it comprises a step consisting of associating with the piece or pieces (11, 12) of the collar at least one textile support (1) according to any one of Claims 1 to 22.
29. A method according to Claim 28, characterised in that the textile support (1) is either associated directly with the top and bottom pieces (11, 12), or associated with an interlining (15), which is then associated with the top and bottom pieces (11, 12).

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