DE398906C - Buttonhole sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

GERMAN EMPIRE

ISSUED JULY 18, 1924

REICH PATENT OFFICE

PATENT LETTERING

CLASS 52 a GROUP 18

(S ₅ 6 <$ ₅₅

The Singer Manufacturing Company of Elizabeth, New Jersey, V-StA.

Buttonhole sewing machine. Patented in the German Empire on July 1, 1921.

According to the Union Treaty of June 2, 1911, priority is due to this application

of the application in the United States of America dated December 31, 1915 and in

Claimed Great Britain April 21, 1921.

With the previously known buttonhole sewing machines it is necessary to hand out the work piece between successive ones Postpone work stages for making the buttonholes. When sewing buttonholes in the buttonhole strips of In shoes, this manual movement of the workpiece slows down the production process and also results in a more or less irregular spacing of the buttonholes from one another, as this depends on skill depends on the worker. "

The need for an automatic device for moving the workpiece between the individual work stages for making the buttonholes and around the latter

Attaching them at the required distance from one another has long been available, however the previously known automatic devices for moving the workpiece did not meet the requirements with regard to a sufficient versatility of movements so that they can be used for workpieces of variable nature, such as buttonhole strips for ίο shoes of various curvatures and Length were unsuitable. Furthermore, in the previously known devices, the mutual The distance between the buttonholes is determined by the type of machine and a change in this buttonhole distance could be made cannot be made without further ado.

The American See patents 473564 and 734794. The machine of the former patent uses a sliding one Template clamp of a fixed shape or curvature and for a fixed one Distance between the buttonholes. The buttonhole strips of the footwear must be in attached to the stencils and fed the latter to the machine. At the machine of the American patent 734794, the workpiece is held by the workpiece clamp Moved between sewing operations to create the space between the buttonholes. This buttonhole distance but is unchangeable and the work piece cannot be presented in a curve become necessary for sewing buttonholes in footwear buttonhole strips is. In this known machine no provisions are made to the work piece stationary or under Hold control when the workpiece clamp is in the cutting position for the new one Detecting the workpiece returns. Only the imprecise effect of the Sewing thread used. It is evident that an irregularity and inaccuracy necessarily occurs in the manufacture of the spacing for the buttonholes.

According to the present invention, in addition to the workpiece clamp, a device is provided which grips the material and advances the workpiece in order to establish the spacing between the individual buttonholes. The workpiece is thus held by the fabric clamp under control when the fabric sensing device returns to its initial position after Vorschubbewe- \ supply.

The device grasping the substance moves in a transverse direction to the buttonhole slit, like this for making the distance between the buttonholes along a button-hole placket for footwear is desirable.

To operate the device that grips the fabric between the individual sewing processes a cam is used which is carried by the shaft which also carries the usual feed cam and the cam for rotating the stitch-forming tools. This training inevitably sets the working time of the device detecting the substance with reference on the other facilities and avoids a possible handicap of the individual Parts and their damage. which by an inconvenient time Effect of the device detecting the substance could occur.

The device grasping the fabric is expediently through the buttonhole cutting device formed, and the members engaging the fabric are carried by one arm, which has a swinging support and a simple handlebar connection operated with a powered lever, which in turn is controlled by a cam on the mentioned shaft is driven, the latter one revolution for each buttonhole production cycle executes. This type of construction is simple and effective and works directly. The use of the buttonhole cutter to move the work piece * makes it unnecessary to specialize for this purpose to use additional parts that engage with the fabric.

The direction of the fabric-shifting movements of the fabric-engaging device is changeable, so that?) the machine can also sew other buttonholes than those that are in a straight row, can be used. The machine of the invention is capable of making a curved series of buttonholes, as is the case for footwear buttonholes is required. In the same way, the curvature or arcuate shape mentioned can also be changed. In the drawings, an embodiment of the invention is shown, for example, namely is

Fig. Ι a view from one side and

Fig. 2 is a view from the other side of a buttonhole cutting and sewing machine the invention.

Figure 3 illustrates a top view. Fig. 4 is a front end view, and Fig. 5 is a rear end view of the machine.

Fig. 6 is an individual view, partially in section, of the feed cylinder and control disc for operating the cutting device and the associated parts.

Figs. 7 and 8 illustrate the feed cylinder in a diagrammatic representation and parts of the device for controlling the research cylinder and other parts of the machine.

Fig. 9 is a diagrammatic illustration of the coupling device and their control devices.

Figs. Io, ii, 12, 13, 14, 15 and 16 are diagrammatic representations of the individual parts of this coupling device.

Figs. 17 and 18 show in a side view and in a cross section, respectively, the active parts of one coupling.
Fig. Ig illustrates in a view the mutual position of the effective parts of the two couplings, the cord disc being drawn in section.

Fig. 20 shows a perspective view of part of the control device for the Drive device.

Fig. 21 shows the buttonhole cutting device in a diagrammatic representation.

Figures 22, 23 and 24 show details of these devices.

Figs. 25 and 26 illustrate in plan and in a view, respectively, partly in fig Cut, the machine base plate., The stitch frame and part of the feed device.

Fig. 27 shows a diagrammatic representation of the machine base plate, the stitch frame and the fabric clamp with its drive device, and

Figs. 28 and 29 show parts of the cloth clamp.

Fig. 30 is a top plan view of the advance cylinder and certain portions of the fabric. clamp, and

Fig. 31 shows a diagrammatic view is a detail.

Figs. 32 and 33 show a top view and a view of the fabric clamp and the buttonhole cutting device in the cutting position.

Fig. 34 is a diagrammatic representation of one of the lower stave clamping members, seen from below, and

Figs. 35 and 36 are diagrammatic representations of the other lower fabric clamping member, seen on its upper or lower side.

Fig. 2> 1 illustrates in a single view, partially in section, part of the device for rotating the stitch-forming device.

Figure 38 is a top plan view of the stitch frame and the looper assembly and its Drive device.

Fig. 39 shows in a side view, partly in section, the gripper device.

Figure 40 is a top plan view of the gripper device and its shoulder washer, and

Fig. 41 is a view thereof with some parts omitted.

Fig. 42 illustrates in a view from the front of the machine and on a slightly larger scale and partly in section, the stitch frames and the stitch forming device, and

Fig. 43 is a corresponding view of these parts, from the same side as the Representation of Fig. 2 seen from.

Figures 44, 45 and 46 are diagrammatic representations of the gripper device supporting attachment disk or the lower thread-guiding needle with its support and drive device and the gripper its drive device.

Fig. 47 is a cross section through the needle bar and the needle drive bar with their connections.

Fig. 48 illustrates a detail in a diagrammatic representation.

Figs. 49, 50, 51 and 52 illustrate certain things Parts of the gripper drive device in different working positions.

Figs. 53, 54 and 55 illustrate certain details in diagrams, and the

Figs. 56, 57, 58 and 59 are diagrams showing schematically the stitch forming organs in different stages of a stitch formation cycle and a part of an overlock seam, which on the Edge of a buttonhole slit made in the fabric is attached.

The machine frame has the base plate i, which protrudes downwards Has legs 2 and the uprights 3 and 4 connected to one another by a transverse web 5. The stand 3 (Fig. 5) carries a bracket 6 with the bearing hub 7. In the latter and in a bearing hub 8 is' mounted the rotating shaft 9, which the stitch forming device drives and one to drive the feed and buttonhole cutting device serving tubular shaft 10 is surrounded. The shaft 10 is in a bearing hub of the crossbar 5 stored.

Device for periodic coupling · and uncoupling of the Stitch-forming device and the buttonhole cutting device

with their drive links.

On the end portion 10 'of the shaft 10 is loose the hub 12 of the pulley 13 (Figs. 4 and 15) mounted in their opposite Has surfaces annular coupling recesses 14, each of which is similar to one another Brake recess 15 in one of the higher

len hubs 16 of the bearing arm 6 or the Frame hub 11 (Fig. 4 and 10) is opposite.

The shafts 9 and ι ο carry next to and on the opposite sides of the cord pulley 13 clutch and brake devices, which are similar in design, with the exception that one device is arranged on the right and the other on the left. In the following, therefore, only a single device will be described.

On the shaft 9, the hub 17 is within the recess 15 of the console 6 Washer 18 (Fig. 4 and 11) attached, which is provided with a hub 19 on its inner surface is which in the circumferential direction seats 20 and 21 for the braking and Has coupling tape, and is cut out on one side. so that the recess 22 is created.

One end of the brake band 24 is on the seat 20 by means of the screws 23 (Fig.13) attached, the other end 24 'for the purpose of receiving a friction reducing Roller 25 is provided with a recess. The roller 25 is on a bearing journal 26, which is screwed into the part 24 'which is usually within and is in the braking position with respect to the inner wall of the recess 15. on the seat 21 is a pierced end of a similarly designed by means of the screws 27 Coupling band 28 (Fig. 14) attached, the other end 28 'on his Inner surface is provided with a recess for the purpose of receiving a friction reducing Roll 29 on a warehouse. pin 30 sits, which in turn in the mentioned End of the coupling band is screwed in. The coupling band is usually used by the Comprises walls of the adjacent coupling recess 14 of the cord pulley 13, but kept out of contact with these walls.

The hub 19 of the disc 18 (Fig. 11) is cut out on the side opposite the recess 22 for the purpose of inclusion a clutch lever 31 (Fig. 12), the Receiving a journal 33 (Fig. 16) has a bore 32. By means of the peg 33, the lever 31 can swing between the seats 20 and 21 in a slot in the hub stored. The lever 31 carries on its two surfaces and on opposite sides Sides of the bore 32, the roller pin 34 and 35. The roller pin 34 works in the radial slot 18 'of the disc 18 and can come into contact with the roller 25 of the brake band, while the roller pin 35 with the roller 29 of the clutch band in Contact can occur.

That arm of the coupling lever 31 which carries the roller pin 35 has a shoulder 36 which is provided at its end with an inwardly directed tab 37 which enters the recess 22 of the disc 18, in which a 'pressure block 39' by means of a screw 38 is attached. Between the bottom of a recess in the pressure pad 39 and the tab 37 is a spring 40 ^! (Fig. 12) switched on, which acts on the clutch lever to bring the pin 35 into engagement with the roller 29 of the clutch band and to pull the pin 34 out of engagement with the roller 25 of the brake band.

The approach 36 of the clutch lever has an outwardly protruding part 41, the through a recess 42 of the seat 21 for the coupling band and the recess 43 of the Kuplungsbandes 28 extends and forms an inclined bearing shoulder with a corresponding beveled edge on an inwardly directed projection 44 of one of the segment-like Pressure pads 45 engages. The pressure pads 45 are by means of the screws 46 on both sides of the cord pulley ring attached. When the clutch lever 31 is on its pivot pin 33 as a result the action of the spring 40 rotates freely, the part 41 rests on the inner wall of the recess 14 of the cord disc until it is in line with groove 47 (Fig. 15) passes through which it passes to bring about a coupling action of the lever 31, which is thereby caused to engage the pin 35 with the roller 29 bring the coupling band 28 into engagement with the wall of the recess 14 bring to. The first sliding of the coupling tape on the cord pulley is stopped by the engagement of the protruding part 41 with the approach 44, the passes through the groove 47, whereby not only the clutch lever more powerfully in the Clutch position is pressed, but also an inevitable clutch between the driving and driven links is secured.

The clutch lever arm, which carries the roller pin 35, has a second after externally protruding part 48 (Fig. 12), which extends through the grooves 49 and 50 in the adjacent Edges of the brake and clutch bands 24 and 28 and between the adjacent edges of the rim portions of the hubs and the cord pulley 13 extends, beyond which he an eccentrically arranged segment-shaped bearing surface 48 'for the purpose of actuating the clutch lever from the outside the coupling device forms.

Each of the hubs 16 that form the brake band

have recesses, is provided with an upwardly protruding tab 51 in which the oscillating shaft 52 (Fig.4 and το) is mounted, on which the hubs 53 and 54 of the two rocker arms sit, which are spaced apart by an interposed collar 55 \ ^{r on} top of each other, lie. Each of these rocker arms has a stop arm 56 (Figs. 4 and 10'j which is forked at its outer end and comprises a roller 57 which is mounted on a journal 58. Each roller 57 is above one of the free spaces between the Pulley and one of the hubs 16 (Fig. 4) and thus lies above the path of movement of the coupling lever attachment 48 with which the roller can be engaged or disengaged Pin 60 ("Fig. Ιoj is connected to one end of a link 61, the other end of which engages by means of a pin 62 on one of the levers 63 or 64. The lever 63 sits firmly on an inner oscillating shaft 65 a tubular Schwirigwelle 66 sits, which surrounds the shaft 65 (Fig. 9).

The inner oscillating shaft 65 rests at its ends in a bearing 67, which protrudes from the outer hub 16, and in a bearing 68 of the frame member 5 (Fig. 3 "). The tubular oscillating shaft 66 rests on the oscillating shaft 65 and is in one Bearing 6.9, which protrudes laterally from the inner hub 16: and is mounted in the stand 3 ^.: The handlebars and the arms 63 and 64 form toggle levers between the rocker arms 54, 56 and 59 and their associated rocker shafts, the outer working positions of which are angled by the arranged stop arms 70 and 71 (Fig. 9 and ioj are determined, each of which is attached to its associated knee; lever arm by a screw 72 and movable with it. Each of the arms 70 and 71 carries a stop screw 73 and 74, respectively, with the outer surface of the hub 16 j in order to limit the stroke of the ^Lenbach;. can come into contact kers 64 When each toggle lever is buckled due to the action of the spring 75, the intermediate, see the stopper 70 and the adjacent hub 16 is switched on, the ■ roller 57 is withdrawn and its associated clutch lever can rotate freely with the drive pulley. If, however, as can be seen from FIGS. 9 and 10, the toggle lever is extended, the roller 57 is guided into the groove 16 'of the hub 16 inwards' and into the path of movement of the projection 48 of the associated coupling lever, so that the latter is pushed inwards is to the

'' Clutch lever for the purpose of uncoupling its associated shaft from the drive pulley and tightening of the brake band

: push.

Since the outer end portion of the bearing surface 48 'of the clutch lever set 48 is slightly above the Roll 57 protrudes, even if the roll zapi'en 34 with the brake band roll 25 ("Fig.io")

~ is engaged, then the roller 57 forms an inevitable barrier against it die'continued rotation of the clutch lever with its connected shaft and thus brings

! with the latter always in the same position

^; to rest, so that the rest positions of the moving parts invariably

; are the same. It is also evident * that, although the waves 9 and ι ο independently

- with the common cord disc 13

: can be coupled, the coupling devices, as described above, act to couple the shafts to the cord pulley 13 in such a way that they invariably assume a fixed position during a working cycle. This is of great importance for buttonhole sewing machines in which the action of different organs on the fabric takes place one after the other in approximately the same working position, go With one end on the tubular oscillating shaft 66 and with the other end on the inner shaft 65 there is a loose oscillating sleeve 76 mounted, which (Fig. 3 and 9 ") is provided between its ends with laterally protruding stop arms yj and 78 (fig. 7 and 9) standing at a certain distance from one another. The arm 78 has an attachment which forms a bracket 79, which includes a drive cam 80 (Fig. 7) mounted on and rotates with tubular shaft 10. Sleeve 76 is cut on one side between its ends, around the inner end of tubular oscillating shaft 66 and the adjacent portion of the oscillating shaft 65, on which the hubs of the two laterally protruding arms 83, 84 are fastened by means of the adjusting screws 81, 82 (Fig. 9) nd, each of which lies next to one of arms Jj and 78. :

In the upper surface of each arm 83 and 84 is a shoulder provided Screw 85 screwed into the pierced hub 86 of a laterally movable-'liehen Locking lever 87 ("Fig. 7 and 9) enters. Each lever 87 has on its End parts next to the sleeve 76 on one side a recess, and the one formed thereby Stepped part 87 'extends into a housing which is supported by a projection 88 and an overhanging lip 89 of the adjacent

hard stop arm is formed. A spring 90 is located between the parts 87 ′ and 88 (Fig. 3! Switched on so that the locking lever is usually over and in alignment is held with its support arm, with a downwardly projecting stop flange 87 "(Fig. 71 in contact with the edge of the Support arm stands, which is provided with a recess for the purpose of receiving this flange is.

As a result of the action of the springs 90, the locking levers are usually outside the Effective area of the adjacent stop arms 77 and 78 held, and the arms 83 and 84 can be their lower positions take, in which the toggle levers 61 and 64 are buckled. However, if the locking lever 87 are shifted laterally against the action of the spring mentioned, like this is indicated on the left in Fig. 9. they lie over their associated stop arms that carry out continuous lifting and falling movements during the operation of the machine, and are consequently released so that the toggle lever is stretched and the rocker arm 56, 59 in the stop position be tilted.

The ends of the locking levers 87 protrude differently from the corresponding ends of the arms 83 and 84 (Fig. 7 '), the lever carried by the arm 83 being the shorter. When these arms are in the raised position while the machine is at a standstill, the overhanging parts of the levers 87 rest on the ends of the arms of a bracket 91 which is provided at the upper end of an arm 92. The latter (Fig. 9) is fastened by means of the screws 93 (Fig. 7) to a plate 94 which extends upwards from a collar 95. The collar 95 is attached to a longitudinally movable oscillating shaft 96 which is used for starting and rests in a bearing arm 97 of the transverse web 5.

Device for starting

the machine.

On one end of the oscillating shaft 96, the split hub 98 is a lateral one Crank arm 99 1 Fig. 7 1 attached, which has a crank pin 100. The latter is from comprises a bracket at the upper end of a foot step bar 101, by means of which the Oscillating shaft can be swung for the purpose of starting the machine to the Retract bracket 91 so that one of its upwardly projecting parts is disengaged comes with the shorter locking lever 87, for the purpose, the support arm 83 for the purpose of buckling * of the inner toggle lever to go down, whereby the clutch det tubular shaft 10 with the driving Cord pulley is effected. Subsequent longitudinal movement of the shaft 96 has a Transverse displacement of the bow, with the effect that the other part of the The bracket disengages from the longer locking lever] 87, causing the clutch the shaft 9 is made with the drive pulley.

The collar 95 carries a downwardly extending pin 102 which is inserted into an elongated bore 103 of a lever 104 f Fig. 8 i enters, which at one end has a lateral Has approach 105. This approach has a pierced hub 106 into which a Screw pin 107 enters, which is screwed into a downwardly protruding block 108, which has a transverse bearing journal

109 (Figs. 8 and 20). This bearing journal is in a pierced bearing piece

110, which is attached to the stand 111, which protrudes from the bearing arm 97 (Fig. 20 Ί. The angularly arranged bearing pins 107 and 109 form a linear universal joint connection for the lever 104 with its support frame, so that the said lever both horizontally and is vertically movable.

The concave edge 104 'of the lever 104 and the overhanging angled edge 112 'of the control plate 112, which by means of the screws 113 is fixed to the lever 104, can engage with a pin 114 seated on a block 115. The latter is by means of the screws 116 ("Fig. Si attached to the upper surface of a spur gear 117, that by means of the screws 118 on the surface of the feed cam cylinder 119 is set.

V υ r s c h u b k u r ν e η ζ y 1 i η d e r.

As can be seen in particular from Fig. 6, the cam cylinder 119 has a Hub 119 'which sits on a tubular sleeve 120 which at its lower end has a flange 121 which supports the weight of the cam cylinder. The socket 120 is fastened in a hub 122 of the frame member 5 by means of the adjusting screws 123, of only one of which is indicated in Fig. 6.

Drive device for the Buttonhole cutting knife. "

A drive 124 is connected to the spur gear 117 in engagement, which sits at the lower end of the knife drive shaft 125, which in the Bearing hubs 126, 127 is mounted, and on which the worm gear 128 is attached, which with the worm 129 of the tubular shaft 10 is engaged. Through the described

Bodies rotates the shaft io, which is in the same direction rotates with the cord pulley 13, the shaft 125 at a reduced speed by means of the described worm and worm wheel connection and the feed cam cylinder becomes at an even slower speed by means of its the speed reducing wheel connection with the shaft 125 rotated.

On the outer end of the oscillating shaft 96 opposite the crank arm 99 the split hub 130 of a block 131 is attached (Fig. 8 "), which has a transverse slot in which by means of a Screw pin 132 of the starter lever 133 attached which has a lug 134 of smaller width (Fig. 7). The hub 130 has, as can be seen from Fig. 9, a bore between the bottom and the

ao adjacent edge of the lever 133, a spring 135 is switched on, by means of which the edge of the lever resiliently in contact with the inner end of the comprehensive Slot in the block 131 (Fig. 7) is held.

The approach 134 of the starter lever occurs with the top wall of a recess 136 in a vent slide plate 137 (Fig. 8) engages, which has a slot 138 for receiving a screw 139 by means of which the Slide plate is slidably held on an upright seat of the frame member 5. The plate 137 also has a forked lateral extension 140, the free end of the lever 104 (Fig. 8). The slide plate is usually supported by a spring 141 depressed, which surrounds a pin 142 which in a bore of the frame member 143 occurs, between which and the sliding plate the spring is switched on.

The hub 144 (Figs. 7 and 20) of a rocker arm sits loosely on the rocker shaft 96, which has a side arm 145 and an arm running in the opposite direction, which is provided with a bracket 146. The hub of this lever rests on the neighboring one Lever of the bearing arm 97 on, and between the latter and the hub 98 of the crank arm 99 (Fig. 20) a spring 147 is switched on, by means of which the oscillating shaft; 96 is moved lengthways in the direction indicated by the arrow in Fig. 20. By means of the bolt and slot connection 102, 103, the lever 104 is flexible in kept within the range of motion of the pin 114, which moves with the cam cylinder 119,

The collar 95 carries a finger 148 provided with a recess (FIG. 7), the usually due to the normal action of the spring 141 on the lug 134 of the starter lever is printed upward in contact with the lower part of an elbow 149, that on the stand 111 by means of the screws 150 (Figs. 8 and 20). The effective end of this angle has a Recess which receives a pin 151 provided with a head, the lower The end usually protrudes at the bottom of the angle as a result of the action of a flat spring 152 (Fig. 7) which protrudes above of said angle lies and presses on the head of the pin.

When the oscillating shaft 96 is in its initial position, in which the bracket 91 holds the lever 83, 84 controlling the clutch in the raised position, the Finger 148 its position below the angle 149 (Fig. 20), the lower End of the pin 151 rests on this finger. However, when the oscillating shaft 96 their Effective longitudinal movement consisting of two stages under the action of the pin 114 successively on the control edges 104 ' and 112 ', finger 148 will move in a direction opposite to that in Fig. 20 shifted transversely indicated by the arrow, and the pin 151 then goes under the action of its spring 152 in the locking position with respect to the finger 148 as indicated in Fig. 7.

The finger 148 remains engaged with the retaining pin 151 until the Shaft 96 by means of the kick bar 101 or of the finger lever 133 swung out at the beginning of a subsequent working cycle is, whereupon the finger 148 comes out of engagement with the pin 151 and as a result of Effect of the spring 147 can take up its initial position under the pin again.

The oscillation of the shaft 96 by pressing down the crank arm 99 or the Finger lever 133 has not only a release of the bracket 91 from one of the locking levers 87 result in order to bring about a start-up of the tubular shaft 10, which the cam cylinder 119 drives, but also acts by means of the projection 134 of the Lever 133 to raise the plate 137 against the action of its spring 141, so that the plate 112 is brought out of engagement with the pin 114 with which it is at Completion of a working cycle remains in engagement, so that the shaft 96 the one Stage of their working movement as a result of the action of the spring 147 and the effective Brings edge of the lever 104 into engagement with the pin 114.

In this position of the shaft 96, the second link of the bracket 91 is still below the longer locking lever 87. But if the pin 114 its movement with the cam

cylinder executes, it slides off the end of the lever 104 and thereby lifts the resistance exerted on shaft 96 against the second stage of its clutch controlling longitudinal movement under the action of the spring 147 on. When the wave 96 performs its second stage of movement, it guides the bracket 91 from the longer locking lever 87 away, so that the arm 84 goes down and the coupling of the shaft 9 with the cord pulley 13 for the purpose of starting the stitch forming device is effected.

The lug 134 of the starter lever usually rests on the plate 137 ι Fig. 8), and not only when the parts are in the stopping movement, but also after the first actuation of the shaft 96. The second stage of the longitudinal movement of the shaft 96 takes the lever 133 with so that the lug 134 comes into contact with the downwardly extending lip 137 'which the opposite wall of the recess 136 forms, in which position the approach 134 remains during the sewing process.

To one or both of the movement devices actuated by the shafts 9 and 10 To stop during a working cycle of the machine, the lever 133 of Hand out moved transversely in the direction indicated by the arrow in Fig. 7 so that the shaft 96 against the action of its spring 147 in its initial position is moved. This wave movement acts similar to the corresponding movement, which by means of the pin 114 and the lever 104 is automatically brought about, there, the edge of the relevant part of the bracket 91 to bring against the adjacent edge of the longer locking lever 87, so that the latter laterally into engagement with the stop arm 78 is moved to the arm 84 for the purpose of uncoupling of the shaft 9 from the driving pulley. The upward movement of the locking lever 87 with its support arm allows it in its highest position in its initial position over the bracket member as a result of the action of the spring 90 can snap.

Continued movement of the lever 133 in the same direction has a corresponding effect Engaging of the other bracket member 91 with the shorter locking lever 87 for the purpose of uncoupling the shaft 10 from the driving pulley.

Button hole cutting device.

The cutting apparatus performs movements from the retracted position into and out of the effective range of the stitch-forming apparatus, which suitably n is an upper on-and-down Öhrnadel. A reciprocating lower ührnadel or a gripper I and a spreader s having the thread loops of the upper needle and hold it below the fabric for the passage of the lower needle, which loops of its own thread above the fabric for the passage of the upper needle. In the exemplary embodiment, the stitch-forming members are carried by a slidable stitch frame which can be moved from its normal working position in order to enable a buttonhole slot to be cut in the sewing position.

The cutting device has a cutting lever that can be moved vertically and horizontally, that consists of two rigidly interconnected parts 153, 154 with one in between increased seat 155 consists of receiving and guiding a pin 156 and a retaining pin 157 which depends from a plate 158 is pierced, which in turn has an upwardly bent lateral shoulder 159 (Fig. 21 and 33). The cutting block 161 is fastened to the shoulder 159 by means of the screws 160, which lies under the movable upper cutting knife 162, which by means of a Screw 163 is fixed to an overhanging member 164 of the knife lever 154.

The cutting members 161, 162 become common held separated by a spring 165 which surrounds the pin 156 and zwisehen the head of a screw 166 and the lower surface of the seat 155 turned on which is screwed into the screw 166.

100 device for guiding the Button hole cutting device.

The knife lever arm 153 has a transverse hub 167 ('Fig. 2 Γι. In the' means of the set screws 168 of the pivot pin 169 is attached to the in a certain Distances from each other standing members of a transverse bracket 170 of the swing frame 171 is mounted, which carries the guide rod 172 (Fig. 1 and 2). The frame inen 171 has a downwardly protruding hub 173 (Fig. 31. that of arms 175 a handlebar and connected to it by means of a pin 174 so as to be swingable is. The aforementioned arms are rigid by a connector 176 (Figs. 1 and 21) connected with each other. The arms 175 comprise the side arms 178 of a swing block and are with them through a tap

¹ fen 177 articulated. The mentioned swing block has a tubular hub 179 which is mounted on a bearing pin iSo

is carried by the base plate ι (Fig. ι j will.

By means of the connection described, the oscillating frame 171 can move in any direction horizontally around pins 174, 177 and 180 and is prevented from moving in any other direction. Of the Messerhe'bel, which is an articulated connection with ■ the frame mentioned transversely to the pin has on which he is movable is in a horizontal position by means of the Screw 166 held, which rests on the top of the foot 300 of a block 301, which is attached to the base plate 1 (Fig. 2, 4 and 5).

There is a sleeve on the guide rod 172 182 slidably mounted, which on the rod in the desired setting position by a clamping screw 183 (Fig. 3) is held and the one with a pierced hub 184 (Fig. 1) is provided. The bearing pin is in the latter by means of an adjusting screw 185 186, which enters a socket 187, which by means of a set screw 188 in a lateral eye 189 of the sliding sleeve 190! (Fig. 1) is attached. The sleeve 190 sits | on a guide rod 191 (Fig. 1 and 3) of the bracket 192, which is provided with parallel rods 193, which of lugs 194:

the sleeve 190 to be included to the latter to prevent rotation. A clamping screw 195 i is seated on the sleeve 190 (Fig. 3) to make the socket in the desired position! set position. ;

The bracket 192 is on the base plate 1 j fixed so that the parallel rods 191 and 193 are at an angle to the perpendicular pivot pins 174, 177 and 180 run. The ■ Rod 172 is held by its swing frame 171 so that it is one layer parallel to the rods 191 and 193 occupies when according to the cutting position of the | Cutting organs lies immediately above them.

The vertically arranged pin 186 (Fig. 1) thus forms a pivot to ^! that the swing frame 171 and its associated knife levers move to; to limit the displacement of the cutting members in an i circular path on a degree of curvature defined by the ^distance: loading of the pivot pin of the cutting position ■ is true, with which it along 'rod in line with his i adjustment of the stationary guide is kept 191 . The radius of curvature of the movements of the cutting members is correspondingly changed by simultaneous \ adjustment of the sleeves 182 and 190 along 'of their respective carrier rods.

The knife lever arm 154 (Fig. 21) is with provided with an upwardly projecting hub 196,> which carries a ball stud 197 which is supported by a bracket at one end of a handlebar 198 is included. This link has a corresponding one at its other end Bracket, which has a pin 199 on 6g a side arm 200 of an angle lever comprises having a hub 201 which is slidable is mounted on the bearing sleeve 126 of the knife shaft 125. This angle lever has a second arm 202 which carries a roller pin 203, which is usually with the operative edge of a cam 204 engages on the upper Surface of the spur gear 117 is fixed. The pin 203 is in contact with the cam disk held by a spring 205 (FIGS. 2 and 3), one end of which is fixed to the hub 201 by means of a screw 206 is, while its other end is connected by a screw 207 to a stationary part of the frame (see the dashed Lines in fig. 2 and 3).

As is apparent in particular from Fig. 30, the circumference of the cam disc has a portion 204 'which extends over approximately three quarters of the disc circumference, and a projection 204' of the two active parts 204 * and 2O4 ^c with adjacent concentric parts 204 ^ and 204 ". During the larger part of a buttonhole production cycle, the pin 203 rests on the inner control part 204 ° and the knife lever 153, 154 is held in its outermost retracted position by means of the described connections with the angle lever 200, 202. As the control disc continues to rotate, the pin 203 successively engages the control members 204 ", 2O4 ^{c , 2O4 rf} and 204 ^, so that the cutting device is advanced by about two thirds of its distance from the cutting position, where it is at the termination of the buttonhole production cycle remains, whereupon the cutting device moves forward into the cutting position and is sufficient in it long quietly left for the purpose of incision of the buttonhole slot, and it goes back into the original retracted position as soon as the pin 203 comes back to the concentric control parts 2O4 ^a engaged.

The hub 201 (Fig. 6 and ¹ 20) has an annular groove 201 ', in which the inwardly projecting pin 208 of the bracket 146 occur. If it is desired to prevent displacement of the cutting device between the retracted position and the cutting position, the rocker arm 145, 146 is swung out by hand by means of a connection with the starter lever 133 ^ so that the lever 200, 202 is sufficiently lifted to the roller pin

203 to lead over the cam 204, so that the spring 205 can hold the cutter in the retracted position. About the lever that moves the cutting knife automatically into its working position with reference aiii to return the driving control disk, the cam disc 204 is provided on its surface with a pear-shaped control projection 209 (Fig. 30), its ίο outer part in the circumferential surface of the cam 204 passes. When the cam cylinder 119 rotates, the roller pin becomes 203 pushed outwards by the tax rate 209 until it is in accordance with the Main cam 204 comes, whereupon it goes into its initial position due to its own weight for normal operation in the subsequent buttonhole-making cycle going downhill.

At the end that carries the hub 196, the knife lever has a lateral hub 210 in which a roller pin 211 is mounted, which cooperates with the lower surface of a cross rail 212 which is carried by the vertical slide bar 213. This slide rod is provided with a longitudinal slot 214 above the rail 212 (Fig. 7)! see and has at its lower end a lateral tab 215 into which a screw pin 216 is screwed from below. The latter goes through a pierced eye 217 of a block 218 (Fig. 22), which has a longitudinal tongue 219 which enters a corresponding groove in the sliding plate 213 (Fig. 23). The shaft of a screw pin 220 (FIG. 7), which _; is screwed into the block 218 so that the screw pin 216 holds the slide rod 213 on its seat of the block 218 better. The block 218 is cut out between its ends on the side opposite the tongue 219 and its end parts are pierced to receive a longitudinally movable rod 221 (Figs. 7, 20, 22, 23) on which the block is at its lower end by means of a set screw 222 (Fig. 7).

The rod 221 is in side bearing eyes 223, 224 of the stand in (Fig. 20), with the bearing eye 223 in the cut-out Part of the block 218 enters. The latter is in its raised position held in place by a spring 225 (Fig. 21) between the upper end of the bearing eye 224 and a collar 226 which is attached to the upper end of the rod 221 is. Between the head of the screw pin 216 and the eye 217 is a spring (Fig. 7) switched on, which pulls the slide bar 213 downwards and makes it compliant holds in the lower position on the block 218.

On the upper link of the block 218 is a bearing plate 228 (Figs. 21 and 241 attached, which carries a laterally protruding roller pin 229 with the lower Edge of a rib 230 (Figs. 7 and 21) engages which on the peripheral surface of the cam cylinder 119 is seated. This rib is bevelled with downward and inward Provide end faces. When turning de-> The cam cylinder causes the roller journal 229 to meet the sloping front end of the Rib 230 a depression of the block 218 against the action of the spring 225. At this time, the slide bar 213 is attached to a prevents full upward movement, and the spring 227 is consequently for a subsequent Effect on the sliding rod and the parts connected to it compressed.

The slide bar 213 carries a screw pin 231 (Fig. 7), which fits into a segment-shaped slot 232 in the side arm 233 of an angle lever occurs, which is mounted on the stand 111 by means of the pin 234 and is provided with an angled and upwardly extending arm 235. The latter has a straight lower edge 236 and an upward edge on its outer part protruding finger 237. The edge 236 can engage the pin 145 ', carried by rocker arm 145 and the edge of finger 237 can engage a side pin 238 on the downwardly extending arm 239. which sits on an oscillating shaft 240. The latter is mounted in the bearing arm 97 and carries an upwardly extending crank arm 241 with a spherical crank pin 242 is provided. The pin 242 is from a bracket at one end of a handlebar 243 includes, which has a bracket at its other end, which has a similar Pin 244 includes which of a side crank arm 245 of a vertical rocker shaft 246 (Fig. 7), which also rests in a bearing of the arm 97. the Rocker shaft 246 carries a second lateral crank arm 247 which has a ball stud 248, which is encompassed by a bracket at one end of a handlebar 249. On the other end of this Handlebar sits a bracket which includes a ball stud 250, which on the starter lever 133 is attached.

When the parts are in the position they will be at the completion of a buttonhole production cycle occupy, the pin 238 is held firmly in engagement with the finger 237 of the bell crank 233, 235 and the screw pin 231 rests on the lower end of the slot 232 so that

the slide bar 213 is secured against a downward impact caused by the Block 218 is exerted by means of the spring 227. However, if the machine is for a the new buttonhole production cycle is set in motion, moves the first longitudinal movement the oscillating shaft 96 as a result of the action of its spring 147 the lever 133 in one direction, which is opposite to the direction indicated by the arrow in Fig. 7 on the left, so that the shaft 246 and consequently also the shaft 240 are swung out and the Pin 238 comes out of engagement with finger 237, whereby the restraining influence of the angle lever 233, 235 is lifted on the slide rod 213, which now as a result the action of the spring 227 goes downwards.

The slide bar 213 moves the rail 212 downwards, which by means of the roller pin 211 depresses the knife lever so that the upper cutting member is closed on the fabric and the latter is clamped between the upper and lower cutting members. The strength of the spring 227 is chosen so that it is the; Force of the spring 165 counteracts and that ^! upper cutting members given a suitable clamping force without a cut in the fabric is made, so that with the subsequent movement of the cutting lever to the sewing position to the fabric is moved accordingly ι to the previously made buttonhole at a distance from that: to bring which one just incised and. ! to be sewn. >

The rail 212 has at one end a recess 251 ( "Fig. 7), which completed one end by a cap 252 at _the; is sen and as a guide for a Schu'bstange | serves 253 which has at its Schübstange.. The upper end of a fork in which the lower end of a connecting rod 255 (Fig. 21) is swingably fixed by means of a pin 254, the upper end of which is provided with an eyelet by means of a pin 256 to: one arm of a rocking lever 257. ι is housed, the hub on a _258; is fixed oscillating shaft 259, the bearing in the hub-i of the bearing arm 97 rests.

Run one after the other; the arm of the rocker arm 257 carries a roller pin 260 which rests on the surface of a control disk 261 (Fig. 21). The latter has an approach 261 ¹ , and hers ^! Hub 262 is mounted on shaft 125. The roller pin 260 is in the working position with respect to the control disk 261 by a ■■ .spring 263 fFig. Held), with the, _5: engaging one end to the bearing arm 97, while its other end is connected to a threaded pin, which is eccentric screwed into the end of the oscillating shaft 259th The effective connection between the shaft 125 and the cam cylinder 119 is such that the former executes several revolutions per revolution of the cam cylinder. However, since the shoe bar 253 goes up and down ineffectively, except when the knife is in the cutting position and the pin 211 is in a position below the recess 251, a cutting effect can only occur once when the push bar 253 engages with the pin 211 enter every buttonhole-making cycle. It should be noted that for each revolution of the cam cylinder 119 in the embodiment, only a single cycle of operation of each of the parts which it confirms is caused.

As a result of the use of a sliding cutting device for the purpose of grasping and moving the workpiece between the buttonhole sewing positions, when it is moved into or out of the normal operating range of the stitch-forming device, the worker is not only relieved of the need to move the fabric by hand, but it becomes the period of time during which the stitch-forming device is ineffective is also reduced to a minimum and the performance of the machine is accordingly increased compared with the hitherto customary handling of the workpiece. ₀

Movable sewing frame.

As with certain known buttonhole sewing machines, the machine of the invention has a sliding sewing frame that carries the stitch-forming devices and the Has base plate 264. The latter has an upwardly protruding cylindrical one at one end Housing 265 (Figs. 25 and 26) for the gripper device and also the bearings 366, 267. The bearing 266 is with a bushing 268 provided, and in the bearing 267 sits the tubular bearing hub 269 of a block 270, which has a downwardly projecting bearing pin 271 which is in a suitable bearing bore the base plate 1 is mounted. On the block 270 is by means of the screw 272 an arm 273 attached to a bearing sleeve 274 in which the tubular hub 275 of a bevel gear 276 is stored.

The crankshaft 277 (Fig. 25) is mounted in the bushing 268 and the bearing hub 269, which drives the stitch-forming device. This shaft 277 goes through the hub 275 of the bevel gear 276 through it, and on its end is a transverse web by means of an adjusting screw 278 279 attached, one at each end

Has recess for the purpose of receiving the diametrically opposite and parallel Guide pins 280 that sit on a collar 281. The latter is by means of an adjusting screw 282 attached to the hub 275 and, together with the bevel gear 276, comprises the bearing sleeve 274, so that the bevel gear is prevented from moving longitudinally while the Shaft 277 can move freely in the longitudinal direction.

As can be seen in particular from Figs. 1 and 6, the bevel gear 276 stands Similar bevel gear 283 in engagement, the Xa'be by means of an adjusting screw 284 on the the lower end of an intermediate shaft 285 is attached. The latter is in the bearing bush 120 stored, and on its upper end by means of the set screw 286, the hub is one Fixed bevel gear 287, which in turn engages with a larger bevel gear 288 whose hub is fixed on the rotating shaft 9 by means of the adjusting screw 289 (Fig. 6). The shaft 277 becomes thus by means of the described connections with the shaft 9 at double speed the latter is driven and can move with the stitch frame independently of its drive connections. A stand 291 (FIGS. 1 and 42) is fastened in a hub 290 of the base plate 264 the upper end of which the hub 292 of an overhanging support arm 293 is fixed, the has a hub 294 at its free end, in which the downwardly projecting column 296 is fixed by means of an adjusting screw 295 is (Fig. ι and 42), the lower remote end in a bearing hub 265 'of the housing 265 enters. On the column 296 are by means of the adjusting screws 297 on both sides of the hub 294 (Fig. 1) are at a certain distance from each other Hubs 298 of the needle bar frame 299 attached.

The base plate 264 rests on the smooth surface of the base plate 1 and has Flanges 264 '(Fig. 42), which are located under the overhanging lugs 300' ι Fig. 27) of the Extend foot 300 of the bearing arms 301, which on opposite sides of the Base plate protrude upwards. The base plate 264 is between its ends with a upwardly protruding part 302 (Figs. 2 and 26) is provided, which carries a roller pin 303, which enters the cam groove 304 formed in the lower surface of the cam cylinder 1 19 is provided (Fig. 6). A roller pin enters the cam groove 305 of the cam cylinder 119 306 (Fig. 26), which sits on one arm 307 of an angle lever, the hub 308 of which is mounted on a bearing journal 309 is, which sits in the base plate 1 and a second crank arm 310 (Fig. 1 and 26 ' having. In a hub 311 of the lever arm

310 enters a pin 312, which by means of the Adjusting screws 313 in the parts 314 which are at a certain distance from one another a fork is set, which is the hub

311 includes. The latter sits at one end a swing-out link 315 1 Fig. 25>, the other end of which lay on the column 296 is.

The stitch frame thus receives movements from the cam groove 304 through the pin 303 along the shaft 277 and lateral oscillating movements around the bearing journal 271 of the cam groove 305 by means of the pin 306 and its connections with the rigid Column 296 of the stitch frame. When performing these movements, the stitch frame becomes at one end by the bearing of the shaft 277 in the bearing sleeve 269 and near the other end by means of the described Connection led to the swing arm 315 between the curve groove 305 and column 296 included.

The bearing arms 301 are with transverse and in-line bearing hubs 316 (Fig. 27), each of which has one Has flat seat 317 on which the fabric plate 318 is attached. The latter owns how in particular from Figs. 3, 32 and 33, a slot 319, which is the laterally movable cutting member adapts and at one end with a rectangular Recess 320 in connection "along the opposite sides with Bearing ribs 321 is equipped.

Fabric clamp with devices for lifting the clamp feet.

The sliding plate 322 is fitted in this recess (Figs. 35 and 36), its side edges Grooved on the bottom to mate with the bearing ribs

321 to engage. The slide plate 322 has a shallow groove on its surface 323. Near one end of the sliding plate

322, the transverse needle hole 324 is attached, which has the shape of a buttonhole and serves to accommodate the stitch-forming device during the sewing process.

A pin 325 is inside the recess at the end of the recess of the fabric plate the forked hub 326 of a thin plate 327 (Fig. 34. "} swingable stored, which is usually within the groove 323 of the slide plate 322 and on its outer end 328 recessed corresponding to one side of the needle hole 324 and further has a slot 329 extending inwardly. The pin 325 will within the fork of the hub 326 of a

Surrounding spring 330, by means of which the plate 327 is pressed into the groove 323, so that ■ its top surface is usually flush with the slide plate 322. The upper surfaces of plates 322 and 327 form the lower clamping jaws of the workpiece holder on opposite sides of the needle hole, the upper jaws of which are made by feet 331, 332 (Fig. 33) attached to the appropriately designed with the fabric engaging parts next to the needle hole are.

A thickened part of the slide plate 322 at the end opposite the needle hole is provided with countersunk screw holes 333 (Fig. 35 and 36) for the purpose of receiving of the fastening screws 334 (Fig. 33), by means of which the thickened part on a transverse retaining plate 335 is set, which in turn of the angled middle part 336 of a slide rod

337 which is carried in the bearing hubs 316 the bearing arms 301 is longitudinally movable. The part 336 of the slide bar carries a rigid one Arm 339, which is in a seat of the slide rod on its underside by the screws j

338 (Figs. 26 and 32). The arm ;

339 (Fig. 29) has a recess 340 'which has a widened outer end portion 341 j has, which is a guide for the purpose of! would take a roller pin 342 (Fig. 25 and i 26), which in turn is carried by a shoulder 343 which is from the housing 265 protrudes laterally.

The narrowed part of the recess 340 tightly encloses the pin 342 so that the rod 337 is forced to withstand the lateral movements of the stitch frame in the first | and the last stages of a buttonhole manufacture!

management circuit to follow, while the Zap- '■ fen 342 by the lateral movements of the; The stitch frame is not influenced during the sewing of the eye end of a buttonhole. The widening of the outer part of the recess 340 is dead for ^this: Gear provided.

The hub 345 is on one end of the rod 337 by means of the adjusting screws 344 a bearing arm 346 (Fig. 25), the other end of which forms a fork 347, ' which comprises a flattened guide pin 348, by means of which the bearing arm and the slide bar carried by it can be prevented from rotating while it is transverse can slide freely to the machine frame. The arm 346 has an upstanding one Part that ends in a bearing hub 349 (Fig. 27) in which the oscillating shaft 350 is supported is, on one end of which the split hub 351 of the laterally extending Clamp arm 352 is attached. At the outer end of this arm 352 it is angled extending shaft of the clamping foot 331 set.

On the other end of the oscillating shaft 350 sits the split hub of a lateral one Crank arm 353 (Figs. 27 and 28), with which the tubular outer member 355 of a telescopic handlebar is connected, the inner link 356 forms a pin that fits into the lower end of link 355 engages and is provided with a pierced projection 357 at its lower end. Between the externally threaded bushing 358 that goes into the internally threaded upper end of the handlebar part 35 5 enters, and a spring 359 (Fig. 28) is connected to the pin 356, which makes the handlebars flexible holds in the extended state, in which a stop screw 360, which is in the Pin 356 is screwed, on the lower end of a slot 361 of the part 355 rests.

The lug 357 (Fig. 28) carries a screw pin 362 which is encompassed by the pierced arm 363 of a rocker arm, the hub 364 of which is mounted on a bearing pin 365 which is carried by the bearing arm 301 and has an oppositely extending arm 366, the in turn carries a roller pin 367 on its outer end. The latter enters a circumferential groove 368 (FIG. 6) of the cam cylinder 119, by means of which the vertical position of the clamping foot 331 is controlled. In the bottom of the cam groove 368 a narrower cam groove 369 is provided, into which a roller pin 370 (Fig. 28) enters, which sits on one arm of a two-armed rocking lever 371 which is mounted on a bearing pin 372. This bearing journal is carried by the outer end of a lever 373, the hub of which is mounted on the bearing journal 365. The rocker arm 371 has a lateral extension 374 on its other arm (Figs. 28, 31), which lies under the lever 373 and forms a seat for a flat spring 375, the outer end of which rests on the lever 373 next to the bearing pin 372.

The arm of the rocker arm 371, to which the spring is attached, has a pierced hub 376 (Fig. 28) into which a lateral pin 377 enters, which sits on the angled head 378 of a pin 379. The latter has a threaded upper part and forms one link of a compliant link, the other link of which is a tube 380 into which a bushing 381 which is seated on the threaded pin 379 enters. A feather 382,

which surrounds the pin 379 and between one end of the socket 381 and the The lower end of the cylinder 380 is turned on, keeps the split handlebar in contracted Conditions in which the end of member 380 is resiliently pressing on head 378. The handlebar part 380 carries one Screw pin 383, by means of which it is swingable with a side arm 384 on the one end of an oscillating shaft 385 is connected, which is in a bearing member 386 of the Bearing arm 301 is mounted. On the other end of the oscillating shaft 385 is the split one The hub 387 of a clamping arm 388 is attached, at the outer end of which the clamping foot 332 is seated.

In addition to its outer end, the lever 373 has an upwardly projecting shoulder 389 which is unhindered in its upward movement with the ao lever 373 during normal operation of the device under the action of the cam groove 369. At certain times this tab may engage a stop finger 390 (Fig. 27), the hub 391 of which is mounted on the lower end of the rocker shaft 246, preventing the lever 376 from moving upward. In this case, the bearing pin 372 is prevented from moving upwards and the ventilation movement of the roller pin 370 results in an ineffective swinging movement of the lever 371, whereby only the inner part 379 of the split handlebar is pulled downwards without causing the normal ventilation movement of the clamping foot 332 . During the lateral displacement of the stitch-forming members, which are carried by the laterally moving , borrowed stitch frame for the purpose of advancing the cutting device into the cutting position for a new buttonhole sewing process, the slide bar 3 2,7 is moved longitudinally and guides the upper and lower clamping members 322 and 322 331 out of the path of travel of the cutting members, and while they are being separated to release the fabric, the clamping foot 331 is moved upward enough to expose the upper part of the knife-carrying member of the cutting knife. During this lateral movement of the sliding plate 322, the clamping plate 327 is slightly lifted by the engagement of its upwardly sloping front end with the corresponding end of the groove 323 of the sliding plate. While the cutting members are still in the cutting position, the clamping foot 332 goes down and clamps the material in its position on the clamping plate 327 | fixed, after which the cutter into the \ extreme retracted position back and temporarily displaced material clamping _members; 331 and 322 perform their return movement into the operative position simultaneously with the stitch-forming devices. As soon as the clamping foot 331 releases the foot 322 over which it moved when it was withdrawn from the operative position, and while it is performing the last part of its lateral backward movement, it descends and grips the fabric on the slide plate 322, so that a Spreading movement for the purpose of stretching the; Substance is carried out, which has previously been gripped by the clamping members 332 and 327 on both sides of the slot.

;

Stitch formation tools and their drive device.

The crankshaft 277 (Fig. 38, 39) carries the crank plate 392, which is connected to a crank 8υ pin 393 is provided. The latter is supported by a bracket 394 at the lower end of a Handlebar 395, the upper end of which has a pierced hub 396 (Fig. 43 Ί, in which a pin 397 enters. The latter protrudes from a split one. Bundle 398 out, the on the rod 399 is clamped, which in the sockets 400 of the frame 299 on and ab is movable. On the rod 399 a split hub is attached to the one End has a rigid side arm 401, which is split at its other end Hub 402 which loosely comprises a rotating tubular sleeve 403. The latter owns a longitudinal slot 404 on one side and is parallel to the rod 390 in bearing hubs of the needle frame stored. The rod 403 is secured against longitudinal movements by a collar 405, which is attached to the rod below the upper bearing hub and the hub 40ό of an inclined 'crank arm 407 is, which is fixed on the rod above the bearing hub mentioned.

In the sleeve 403, the needle bar 408 _lo s movable up and down, which carries the needle clamp 409 at its lower end, in which the needle /; is fixed. In the longitudinal slot 404 of the bushing 403 sits a plate no 411, which is fixed on the needle bar by means of the screws 412 and is provided on its outer surface with protruding lugs 413 which enclose the collar between them. By means of the connections described, the rotation of the crank pin 393 with the crankshaft 277 causes the needle bar to move up and down, which can rotate with the surrounding sleeve 403.

A second crank plate 415 is attached to the crank pin 393 by means of the screw 414 (Fig. 39).

can turn at shaft 277 and with the crank pin 416, 417 that actuates the gripper is provided, which are arranged approximately diametrically opposite ("Fig. 49 to 521. The crank pin 416 enters a bore in the hub 418 at one end of one Handlebar 419 ('Fig. 55), which has a pin 420 at its other end, and the crank pin 417 enters a hole in the hub 421, which is on one side of the eccentric bracket 422 is seated. The eccentric bracket and its pierced hub together form a short handlebar.

The eccentric bracket 422 sits on a hub 423 which has a pierced hub part 424, into which the pin 420 of the link 419 enters. The aforementioned hub 423 sits at the lower end of a link 425 which pierced at its other end Hub 426 (Fig. 53). A pin 427 protrudes laterally from the upper end of a sleeve 428 into the hub 426 and carries a friction reducing roller 429 which in turn is in a guide engages between the parallel ribs 430 on a plate 431 which has a lock for the vertically slotted inner side of the housing 265 (Fig. 40). As a result the inclusion of the roller pin 429 in its guide is the upper end of the handlebar 425 is only movable in a straight path and the sleeve 428 is on prevents rotation on its axis.

The upper end of the housing 265 is for the purpose of making an annular seat cut out. In this seat rests a ring 432 with an annular slide is provided to accommodate the friction reducing balls 433 on which the conical surface of a wear ring 434 rests on, in turn by means of the Screws 43 5 on the surrounding flange 436 of the surrounding top washer

437, from which the shaft 438 (Fig. 39, 42 and 44) hangs down. The wave

438 is mounted near its lower end in a bushing 439 which is in the down protruding hub 440 of the housing 265 is set. On the remote lower end The hub 441 of an inclined crank arm 442 is attached to the shaft 438.

Slidably seated on the shaft 438 is a tubular drive rod 443 which ('Fig. 45) is provided with a transverse head 444 which carries a guide pin 444' which enters a bore 437 'in the top disk. The sleeve 428 sits loosely on the rod 443 and is held in place between the head 444 and a split pressure ring 445 which is screwed onto the threaded lower end of the rod so that the derived from the 'crankshaft 277 and Movements of the sleeve are transmitted to the tubular rod 443. The top disk 437 is provided on one side with an upwardly projecting bearing hub 446 (Fig. 44), which has a slight downward slope and the bearing pin 447 (Fig. 45) of an arm 448, which at its free end on one side is provided with a groove. In the latter, the shaft of the curved lower needle is fixed by means of the head 449 of a fastening screw (Fig. 45). ^: The needle arm 448 is provided between its ends with a lateral ball stud 450 which is encompassed by a bracket at the upper end of a link 451, which at its other end has a similar bracket which includes a ball stud 452 which extends from an upwardly Hub: 453 is carried on the head 444 of the drive rod 443. The vertical movements of this rod transmit longitudinal movements to the lower needle in a circular path j and in a plane which is somewhat oblique to the movement path of the upper needle η. The lower needle is through the U-shaped needle hole 454 of the needle plate 455 go; (Fig. 44) movable, which protrudes upwards and inwards from a block 456. Of the ; Block 456 is on by means of a screw 457; attached to the flat seat on top of the attachment disc. The U-shaped shape of the needle hole forms a tongue 458, which, as a retaining member for the lower; Needle guided upper thread loops is used.

The throat plate shown has a circumferential groove 459 (Fig. 56) for the purpose of receiving it provided with a cord that is attached to the needle hole through a transverse bore 460

■ is guided, which stands out from the edge

the needle plate extends into one end of the needle hole (Figs. 56 and 57).

In a bearing hub 461 (Fig. 44), which is of

the edge of the top pane inwards. protrudes, a pin 462 is supported by . a swing arm 463 protrudes laterally,

• which carries the tubular sleeve 464 at the one edge. In the latter there is a

■ fen 465 (Fig. 41) with a ι head 466 is provided. The latter has one

transverse seat on which, by means of the head of a clamping screw 467, the shaft ! 468 of the gripper s is set, the one

U-shaped outer part has: and at its end with the tip 469 ! see is.

The arm 463 carries a screw pin

470 (Fig. 40), from one end of a

i6

Handlebar 471 (Fig. 4Γι is included in the its other end carries a screw pin 472. The latter is pierced by the Hub 473 on one arm of an angle lever 474, which is mounted on the screw pin 475, which in the pierced bearing hub 476 (Fig. 42) of the top washer is fixed. The other The arm of the angle lever is connected to the one by means of a screw pin 477 1 Fig. 46) Connected to the end of a link 478 which has a screw pin at its other end 479 carries, which in a second bearing bore of the hub 453 on the head 444 of the Rod 443 is mounted.

On the pin 465 next to the head 466, a collar 480 is attached, the one Has crank arm bearing ball stud 481, which is encompassed by a bracket at one end of a curved handlebar 482 (Fig. 38) which at its other end has a bracket which includes a ball stud 483, which in turn of the lateral arm of the angle lever 474 between the screw pin 472 and the bearing pin 475 is worn. During the up and down movement of the rod 443, the angle lever 474 thus receives by means of the handlebar 478 Swinging movements. These movements are made to the arm 463 by the handlebar 471 transferred, which forms a toggle lever with the arm of the angle lever attacking it, which is stretched as soon as the gripper approaches its front position. where even he gets a rest, in contrast to rapidly reverse its movement when in the retracted position.

* ° device ζ to rotate the Stitching tools.

In bearing hubs, which are carried by the base plate 264 and the needle bar frame 292, an oscillating shaft 484 is mounted, which is provided between its ends with a screw thread 485 on which the longitudinally movable sleeve 486 is slidably seated, which is rotated by a roller pin 487 is prevented, which engages in a guide groove 488 of the stand 291 t'Abb. i, 37, 38 and 42). The sleeve 486 has pierced Xaben 489 near its lower end, which are in the L ^T m circumferential direction at an equal distance from one another. Flanged bolts 490 (Fig. 37) are inserted into two of the hubs, which are provided at their inner ends next to their flanges with friction-reducing rollers 491, which enter the spiral grooves between the threads of the sleeve j and are provided with nuts 492 are, j by means of which the bolts are held in place. The third hub 489 is provided with a seat for a block 493, the. is held in position by a screw 494 and carries on its inner surface a hub shoulder 495 which enters a bore 496 of the sleeve and carries a roller 491, which in turn into another groove between ■ see the screw threads of the sleeve ^; occurs.

The sleeve 486 carries at its upper end j a ball stud 497 (Fig. Γι, which is surrounded by a bracket at one end of a link 498. The other end 'of this link is also provided with a bracket, which a ball stud 499 on the outwardly bent extension 500 of a lever 501, the hub 502 of which is mounted on a bearing pin 503 which is carried by ^: the frame member 4. The lever 501 (Fig in the L ^T of the cam cylinder mfangsfläche 119 (Fig. 1 and 3) occurs. by means of the compound described obtains the sleeve 486 of the cam cylinder vertical movements, which are converted to j oscillating movements of the shaft 484th

On the upper end of the shaft 484, the hub of an obliquely directed crank arm 506 (Fig. Ι and 5 ") is attached, the one opposite diagonally directed crank pin 507 carries on which a sleeve 508 which is provided with a cross bar 509. The ends of this rod will be encompassed by the ends of a bracket 511 and are attached to them by means of a transverse pin 510 mounted so that it can swing. The bracket 511 sits at one end of a handlebar 512, which has a corresponding bracket 513 the other end owns. Within this bracket 513 are in the same way means a cross pin 514 hinged to the ends of a cross bar 51 5 of a sleeve 516, which on an inclined crank pin 517 sits. The latter is carried by the crank arm 407 of the needle bar sleeve 403.

On the lower end of the wave 4 ^ 4 is hü the hub of an inclined crank arm 518 (Fig. I, 2 and 5 ") attached, the ■ carries an oppositely sloping crank pin 519 on which a Sleeve 520 is mounted, which has a transverse rod 521. The ends of this crossbar become of the "parts which are arranged at a certain distance from one another Bracket 523 includes and are attached to them by means of a transverse pin 522 swingable. The bracket 523 sits at one end of a handlebar 524 which is attached to the other

898906

Ren end has a similar bracket 525. Within the bracket 525 are in corresponding By means of a transverse pin 526, the ends of a transverse rod 527 of a sleeve 528 hinged, which sits on an inclined crank pin 529. The latter is from the crank arm 442 carried on the shaft 438 of the attachment disc carrying the gripper is attached.

By means of the connections described, the shaft 484 gives the needle bar and the Attachment disc, which carries the lower stitch-forming organs, the necessary rotary movements for sewing a buttonhole.

Needle thread take-up.

The machine of the invention is in the embodiment with a rotating Provided thread dispenser of conventional design for the needle thread. The thread dispenser exists from the control disks 530 lying at a certain distance from one another, the are fixed on the rotating shaft 9 and one of the thread guide arms 531 Bracket are included, which in a suitable seat of an upright bearing member 532 is held by means of a flat spring 533 which is usually resilient in the working position with one of said arms resting on a stop pin 534 (Fig. 7). An arm 535 is attached to the bearing member 532 and is positioned between the disks 530 and is provided with a slot 536 at its outer end.

Thread guides.

For the purpose of threading the machine through, the needle thread «from the supply line source the thread tensioning device 537 and then guided through the eyes of the guide arms 531, whereupon the thread moves across the range of motion of the thread take-up control disks 530 extends, from where it passes through the guide eye 538 of the support arm 293 (Fig. 42) is passed through. From this filling eye 538 the thread goes through an eye in the outer end of the thread take-up arm 339 which is mounted on the hub 402 of the arm 401, from where the thread is passed down through the thread tensioning device 540 and then to the needle « expediently goes through a guide eye of the needle clamp.

The bobbin thread is fed from the feed source to the thread tensioning device 541, which is carried by an arm 542 of the hub 440 from which the thread is up through the bore of the tubular shaft 438 and then passes through the eye of the thread take-up arm 543. From here the thread is passed through the middle eye of the lower needle, from where it is passed through the eye adjacent to the sewing point goes through it (Figs. 58, 59).

Mode of action.

If the machine before making the first buttonhole making cycle

; a row is at rest, the stitch forming device is in a position that they use when making the last stitch of the previously sewn Buttonholes and the

^: Buttonhole cutting organs are located on one side of the buttonhole in the position that clamps the workpiece and in one position

, distance from the cutting position, which is equal to the usual distances of the in the Workpiece provided buttonholes from each other. The cutting organs are somewhat separated from each other so that the material ■ for the first buttonhole can be inserted and detected.

The machine is started by depressing the crank arm 99 influenced by the footstep rod or by depressing the starter lever 133 in order to swing out the shaft 96, which first disengages the bracket 91 from the locking lever 87 of the arm 83, so that the knife drive shaft and the cam cylinder are set in motion. The Ausschwingung the shaft 96 is at the same time the pin 151 free and releases the control plate 112 is disengaged from the pin 114 for the purpose of bringing about the first longitudinal displacement of the shaft 96. In this way, the arm 239 is swung, so that the fabric m clamped by the knife which immediately thereafter by means of the lever 200, 202 (Fig. 21) is moved into the cutting position, while the laterally movable upper and lower clamping members 331 and 332 (Fig. 32) are simultaneously guided into the laterally retracted position, as well as i ° 5 die Stitch-forming device, all of these devices being connected to the stitch frame and being moved simultaneously with it. *

After the upper cutting link has reached its ¹¹ Q

Has received the second stage of movement from the push rod 253, the cutting device moves into the outermost retracted position and the laterally movable clamping members and the stitch-forming device follow it simultaneously into their working positions, with the upper clamping member 33 1 closing on the fabric shortly before its return movement ends to stretch the fabric that was previously on the other side of the buttonhole slot t by the clamping foot 332 essentially simultaneously with the cutting

i8

was detected. During the return movement to the sewing position, the stitch-forming device receives a complete rotation in a direction opposite to that. in which it turned during the previous buttonhole sewing process and is thus set for a new sewing process. During this individual operations remains of the pin 114 (Fig. 8) into engagement with the edge of the lever 104. Once but its sewing position to take the parts due to the action of the cam cylinder 119 again, the 'pin 1 14 slides from the end of the lever 104 from ^ o that the shaft can perform its second stage of its longitudinal movement, whereby the shaft 9 is coupled by means of its associated coupling with the cord disc and the stitch-forming device is caused to complete its working cycle in which the stitches along the sides of the buttonhole slot and around its ends to be installed around.

If the machine comes to a standstill after completing a buttonhole, will rotated the top washer in such a position that the block 456 immediately below the approach 159 of the plate carrying the cutting block ι 58 (Fig. 33). This will the pressure of the 'cutting knife 162 on the cutting block 161 during the' manufacture of a Buttonhole cutting process effectively taken up.

At the beginning of the sewing process, the stitch-forming organs are set so that they the first stitch across the slot and on its opposite side with reference on the first side of the buttonhole to be sewn and attach the stitches then walk continuously around the narrow end of the slit and then along the first side of the buttonhole. Then the stitches around the buttonhole eye are made and then attached along the second side of the buttonhole slit and then around the narrow end up to a point, which is opposite the first stitch.

If desired, a series of buttonholes, for example in a button placket attaching a shoe without stopping the machine after every buttonhole, The crank arm 99 can be used consistently by the operator during a plurality of sequential buttonhole making cycles be held down, in which case the bracket 91 over the The end of the shorter locking lever 87 is withdrawn, and the lever 104 (Fig.20) remains raised enough so that the pin 114 pass under the control plate 112 can, whereby the control of the longitudinal positions of the oscillating shaft 96 only brought about by the interaction of the pin 114 with the edge 104 'of the lever 104 will. As a result, the shaft 96 is forced to move during the mentioned time period between its second and third To move longitudinal position without taking their sustained initial position, so that the Coupling between the cord pulley and the shaft 10 during a plurality of Buttonhole manufacturing cycles remain effective.

In this mode of operation of the machine, the effective parts carry out their work in in the order described above, with the exception that clamping the Workpiece by the cutting elements for the purpose of its advancement between the sewing processes is not temporarily prevented by the action of the angle lever 233.235. the Amount of movement of the crank arm 239 as a result of the limited longitudinal movement of the oscillating shaft 96 has no influence on this angle lever.

The rib 230 is on the cam cylinder 119 arranged so that it acts first to depress rail 212, straight when the cutter reaches its fabric clamping position in which it is stops in front of the movement of the material. The automatic production of the The buttonhole distances from each other are therefore both in the continuous operation of the machine for a plurality of buttonhole-making circuits as well as in the particular individual circuits uniform, at the end of which the machine comes to a standstill. It can be seen enabling the release of the crank arm 99 in a final buttonhole making cycle that the machine comes to a standstill when the last buttonhole is finished.

If the thread breaks or if it appears necessary, the machine can be stopped by hand in that the lever 133 in the by the Arrow in Fig. 7 on the left indicated direction is depressed so that the rocker shaft prematurely moved against the action of their spring and with it the bracket is moved. The amount of movement of the lever 133 determines whether only the Stitch-forming device or the entire machine is to be brought to a standstill.

Moving the lever 133 in the same direction beyond its usual amount of movement Depressed out and shifts, the crank arm 239 will have an abnormal movement in the opposite Direction given so that the arm 239 is caused to engage with the pivot 145 'of the rocker arm 145, 146 to release the lever

200, 202 to come into engagement over the range of action of the cam disk 204, wherein brought his pin 203 in the area of action of the Steueraasatzes 209 and at the same time the rocker shaft 246 is rotated enough so that the stop finger 390 is in its retaining Position above the lever 373 is brought to a ventilation of the clamping foot 332 due to the usual action of the cam groove 369. Once through the Swinging of the shaft 96 during this actuation of the starter lever 133 of the bracket 91 is brought out of its persistent position with respect to the shorter locking lever 87, the cam cylinder 119 can then complete its rotation which is then in the process of being formed and perform that part of a subsequent rotary movement which is sufficient is to move the fabric still clamped in the fabric holder into position to lead, in which the missing overcast edge stitches for the up to then incomplete Buttonhole. The release of the lever 133 at this point by the worker causes the spring 147 to disengage the bracket 91 brings the longer locking lever 87, so that the stitch-forming device immediately to completion of the buttonhole is put into effect.

Claims (8)

Patent Claims: i. Buttonhole sewing machine with a shaft that rotates one turn for one executes each buttonhole production cycle and carries cam links, the mutual Movements of the stitch forming devices and the fabric clamp laterally and along the buttonhole during sewing bring about, and with a cam, which a rotation of the stitch forming devices caused when sewing around the end of the buttonhole, characterized in that a cam member (204) on the same shaft actuates a device (161, 162) detecting the fabric, so that the latter the advancement of the fabric to the fabric clamp during the sewing periods and causes the return movement to the initial position before the completion of the next sewing process. 2. buttonhole sewing machine according to claim i, characterized in that the the fabric engaging device (161, 162) is movable transversely to the buttonhole. 3. buttonhole sewing machine according to claim i, wherein the detecting the fabric Members are carried by an arm having a rotatable bearing pin, characterized in that the Substance-sensing device actuating cam disk (204.) swings out a lever (200, 202) which has a fixed bearing pin and a handlebar connection (198) to the arm (154), 4. buttonhole cutting and sewing machine according to claim 1, characterized in that that the buttonhole cutting device serves as a device for grasping the fabric in order to attach the fabric move the buttonholes a certain distance apart. 5. buttonhole cutting and sewing machine according to claim 1 and 4, characterized in that the buttonhole cutting members (161, 162 ¹ J are partially closed before the completion of the back and forth movements, and that the closing movement is ended when the return movement is completed. 6. buttonhole cutting and sewing machine according to claim 1 and 5, characterized in that that a swing frame (171) connected to the cutting device has a bearing journal (186) on which the cutting members (161, 162) are movable together in a curved path. 7. buttonhole cutting and sewing machine go according to claim 1 and 6, characterized in that that the bearing pin (186) around which the buttonhole cutting device is movable is adjustable towards and away from the sewing position. 8. buttonhole cutting and sewing machine according to claim 1 and 6, wherein the fabric clamp has independent clamping feet with a needle hole bending between the latter, and in which the buttonhole cutting members are movable in and out of correspondence with the initial position of the needle hole, characterized in that that the adjacent clamping foot (331) can be moved laterally out of the range of motion of the buttonhole cutting device is, while the other clamping foot (332) remains laterally immobile. In addition 4 sheets of drawings.