DE19508628A1 - Skin moisturising cosmetics - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetics contain 0.001-10.0 wt.% miliacin and other standard cosmetic active and auxiliary agents.

Description

The use of natural products in cosmetics is nowadays on the Prevention of age-related skin lesions and strengthening of the Regeneration processes of the skin directed. The exact one Mechanism of action of these substances is not guaranteed proven. Rather, they are application experiences and Analogies derived from other organ systems that for selecting a natural substance in a cosmetic preparation the Rash. Due to the fact that millet extracts and namely the active ingredient, miliacin, in animal experiment one Promoting effect on wound healing has shown us to be the assumption that, in detail so far not clarified, Properties also useful in cosmetic applications can be. At the same time has Miliacin due to his of plant origin application advantages resulting from the excellent compatibility.

Miliacin can be made from peeled, unpeeled millet, or from millet husks be prepared by conventional extraction methods, as according to is explained standing.

In the preparations to be used locally, the following miliacin containing active ingredients are used:

• a) purified or crude miliacin
• b) filtered, or unfiltered extracts (= millet oil) from millet or husks.

The use of pure Miliacin and unfiltered millet oil alone, or with conventional pharmaceutical or cosmetic active and Excipients is preferred.

In the millet or husks miliacea content is about 0.08-0.15%. In addition, the fruits contain about 2.5-4.0% and the husks about 1.5-3.0% fat oil, which is collected during the extraction. After Extraction with a medium or non-polar solvent and Ent far from the solvent remains a mixture of millet oil with Miliacin and other components. Miliacin is highly oil-soluble and precipitates the millet oil mostly from.

A filtered, clear millet oil thus contains only about 0.05-0.30% miliacin. An unfiltered millet oil provides an oily suspension with approx. 2.5-4.5% Miliacin

Understandably, miliacin can also be after the hydrolysis of Hir win oil from the unsaponifiable share.  

Chemical structure of miliacin

Miliacin is a triterpene with the structure depicted below. These Structure is as 3-β-Methoxygermanicen, or 3-β-methoxy-δ¹⁸-oleanen to describe.

Pure Miliacin are white, odorless crystals with a melting point of 285-286 ° C.

MS, NMR and IR studies have two forms for miliacin wrote. These differ in geometry and optical egg properties. Both forms can be mixed according to the invention, or al be used.

The listed miliacin-containing agents may differ in galenic forms are processed. The chosen recipe depends from the application.

Below are some examples of these formulations.

Animal studies with Miliacin or Miliacin containing preparation (millet oil)

Miliacin has been described as a feed additive for cattle. In the Ver immediately after control, the experimental animals increased by 10% in weight (A.S.No.414994, USSR, No. 6, 1974).

The literature (Nuzov, B.G., Patol, fiziol, eksp., Ter. (1990 Nov.-Dec.), (6), pp. 51-63) describes use of millet oil in the treatment of festering wounds (on rabbits), but mentions no cosmetic  Use of Miliacin or millet oil in humans. In the available Literature finds no indication of an application of millet oil, or Miliacin, in the cosmetic field.  

General description of the pharmaceutical and cosmeti formulations

The cosmetics used differ in theirs colloid chemical composition and composition. The colloid chemical Systematics divides Externa into:

• 1. Liquid preparations
• 1.1 solutions
• 1.2 emulsions
• 1.3 suspensions
• 2. Semi-solid systems
• 2.1 Anhydrous systems - ointments and gels
• 2.2 Hydrous systems
• 2.2.1 Hydrogels
• 2.2.2 o / w cream
• 2.2.3 w / o cream
• 2.2.4 Liposomes
• 3. Powdered systems

The formulations of topically applied remedies contain the following, in the function different components:

• - fats
• - Water
• - emulsifier / coemulsifier
• Stabilizer / bodying agent
• - Humectants
• - Antioxidant
• - Conservation
• - u. a. Substances such. B. perfuming.

According to the invention as active ingredients miliacin or miliacinhaltige Oils with healing properties, together with the applied above pharmaceutical excipients. As an emulsifier may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric, as well as nonionic substances be used. Examples are predominantly the emulsifiers of the latter group derived from the fatty acid esters or Sorbitan fatty acid esters are derived. As stabilizers especially the w / o formulations serve neutral salts such as NaCl, or MgSO₄. When Moisturizers are generally polyvalent Alcohols such as sorbitol or glycerol used. In the recipe examples contained antioxidants belong to the substance classes of tocopherols, or ascorbate. These ingredients protect the unsaturated ones Fatty acids from oxidation - "become rancid".

All water-based emulsion systems form a good basis for egg Nuclear growth. Only when the water quantity or activity is forth  can be discontinued in the recipe on the preservatives ver be canceled. For the following recipe examples, Kon Serving selected with low allergy potential.

Examples of the composition of miliacin-containing preparations Soft W / O emulsion Sorbitan-based emulsifiers | 8,0% Vegetable and mineral oils 20.0% Miliacin (raw or purified) 0.1-3.0% First embodiment 0.1% Second embodiment 1.0% Third embodiment 3.0% stabilizers 0.8% Humectants 6.0% water ad. 100% preservation q.s.

Soft gel Gel base with medium-chain triglycerides | 10,0 Vegetable and mineral fats 7.0 to 15% millet oil 2-10% First embodiment 2% Second embodiment 5% Third embodiment 10% water ad 100% preservation q.s.

Lightweight soft (O / W) cream Vegetable and mineral fats | 8,0% Self-emulsifying emulsifier based on sorbitan 3.0% Miliacin (raw or purified) 0.1-1.0% First embodiment 0.1% Second embodiment 0.5% Third embodiment 1.0% NaOH (10%) 0.4% Carbomer 0.4% Humectants 3.0% Preservation and perfuming q.s. water ad 100%

Spreadable O / W emulsion Triglyceride-Based Emulsifier | 13.0% Millet oil with Miliacin 1-10% First embodiment 2% Second embodiment 5% Third embodiment 10% Humectants 5.0% Preservation and perfuming q.s. water ad 100%

hydrogels

The form of hydrogels on the inorganic base (SiO₂, bentonite u. a.), Or with organic gelling agents (alginates, cellulose derivatives,  Acrylates and a.) is especially in the treatment of larger Skin surfaces useful.

Allen o. G. Preparations may contain Miliacin in a weight amount (based on the total preparation) from 0.001 to 10.0%, preferably from 0.05 to 3.0%. When applied to a skin area of About 10 cm², these preparations are in a weight of about 0.1-5.0 g, preferably 0.3-2.0 g per application (usually 1 × daily).

According to the invention, it was found that these preparations in the Human application in addition to improvement of skin moisture and elasticity also the aging processes in the skin counteract.

Claims (2)

1. Cosmetic containing miliacin in an amount of 0.001-10.0% by weight. in preparation with conventional cosmetic active ingredients and excipients. 2. Cosmetic according to claim 1, which is characterized in that it Miliacin in the form of millet oil contains.