DE10148314A1 - Solid water/oil emulsion, used as moisturizing, anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, cleansing, sun protection, after-sun, lip salve or decorative cosmetic stick contains oil, wax, moisturizer in aqueous phase and emulsifier - Google Patents

Abstract

Water/oil (W/O) emulsion, which is solid at room temperature, contains: (a) a fat phase of (a1) oil component(s) and (a2) wax component(s); (b) an aqueous phase of (b1) 30-85 wt.% water and (b2) 5-50 wt.% skin moisturizer selected from specified compounds; and (c) W/O emulsifier(s) selected from surfactants with 2 identical or different hydrophobic organic groups on a hydrophilic bridge. Water/oil (W/O) emulsion, which is solid at room temperature, contains: (a) a fat phase of (a1) oil component(s) and (a2) wax component(s); (b) an aqueous phase of (b1) 30-85 wt.% water and (b2) 5-50 wt.% skin moisturizer selected from glycerol, chitosan, fucogel, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, lactic acid, glycine, sodium pyrrolidone-carboxylic acid, hyaluronic acids, salts of these acids, urea and salts of group IA and IIA metals; and (c) W/O emulsifier(s) selected from surfactants of formula (I). A-B-A' (I) A, A' = the same or different hydrophobic organic groups; and B = a hydrophilic group. An Independent claim is also included for cosmetic and/or dermatological stick containing the emulsion, which can be spread and stored in a temperature range from -10 to 50 deg C.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic pencils, which are characterized by a high Water content and high amounts of skin moisturizers and W / O- Represent emulsions.

In particular, the present invention relates to sunscreen sticks and aftersun sticks. These can additionally contain pigments, active substances and / or repellents.

Technically speaking, most pen formulations are anhydrous fat blends solid or semi-solid waxes and liquid oils, with the highly purified paraffin oils and waxes represent the lipstick base. There are also water-containing preparations known, which are sometimes also in the form of W / O emulsions.

Common basic materials of the prior art for stick-like preparations are for example liquid oils (e.g. paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate), semi-solid components (e.g. petroleum jelly, lanolin), solid components (e.g. beeswax, ceresin and microcrystalline Waxes or ozokerite), high-melting waxes (e.g. carnauba wax, candelilla wax).

A cosmetic pen should not be greasy, blunt even with slight pressure or sticky but still adherent grease film to the. Through this greasy film the skin should then be made smooth and supple.

Lip care sticks usually contain a high proportion of waxes and fat components form a covering layer over the lips after application. In the Preparations for lip care sticks can also be incorporated with active ingredients that lip care or lip protection are beneficial, e.g. B. vitamins, moisture donating agents, light stabilizers, masking pigments, etc.

State of the art lipsticks containing paraffins and beeswax in "Cosmetics, Development, Production and Use of Cosmetics", p. 105, Publisher: W. Umbach, Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart - New York, 1988.

Since both caring and mainly decorative lipsticks of the prior art Another serious problem was the present problem Invention to remedy these shortcomings.

Because of the high sensitivity of the lip area, especially to ultraviolet radiation due to the practically complete lack of pigments is recommended especially in the case of increased UV exposure such as in the high mountains, the lip area provides protection against UV radiation in the form of appropriate stick-shaped light protection preparations allow to come. Especially in stick-like preparations of the prior art inorganic pigments are often used as UV absorbers or UV reflectors to protect the Lip area used against UV rays. These are especially oxides titanium, but also occasionally zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, Aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications.

Among other things, there is a considerable deficiency in the formulations of the prior art in that, because of the low water content, emulsion sticks which are acceptable per se It was practically impossible to use water-soluble UV filter substances in such formulations incorporate. Another object of the present invention was to use pens only water-soluble UV filters or water-dispersible pigments (for Titanium dioxide) or to make combinations of them water-soluble and fat-soluble UV filters and pigments.

DE 23 35 549 describes a method for producing a cosmetic stick a W / O emulsion known. According to this teaching, a polyhydroxy compound and a non-ionic, surface-active compound a gel, this with a cosmetic basis mixed and water emulsified into the mixture.

DE 41 28 748 describes cosmetic pens, which are characterized in that they represent emulsions and as essential components beeswax, one or several esters of a saturated carboxylic acid with 20-40 carbon atoms and one saturated alcohol with 14-34 carbon atoms, water, and optionally further Contain lipids and / or customary auxiliaries and additives.

US 4,719,103 describes an antiperspirant stick based on a W / O emulsion, which contains a high proportion of water, which is characterized by a content of volatile silicone components, a solid alkanol and polyglycerol fatty acid esters, for example polyglyceryl isostearate, as an emulsifier. The US 4,704,271 and the US 4,725,431 describe similar preparations.

EP 0748622 describes pens with volatile oils, water-repellent polymers, which in volatile oil are soluble and non-volatile oils as well as powder ingredients.

GB 2162439 describes paraffin-containing sticks which have a high water content should contain, wherein the emulsifiers are selected from the group of metal salts. DE 196 43 237 describes cosmetic pencils which are characterized by a higher water content distinguished. These include certain wax and oil components, certain W / O emulsifiers in addition to 30 to 85 wt .-% water. The use of larger Amounts of skin moisturizers are not described, only in the examples Use of 2 wt .-% glycerol disclosed.

DE 299 19 474 describes W / O emulsion sticks. By the use of Polysaccharides create a three-dimensional structure that gives the pins more stability should lend. The use of high amounts of skin moisturizer also in The presence of pigments is not described. Also the omission of the polysaccharides preserving the pin structure is not considered beneficial.

In DE 200 09 445 pens are claimed which contain only small amounts of water (25%). Nothing is said about skin moisturizers.

EP 1064908 describes emulsion sticks which contain only very small amounts of water included (14%, p. 4, ex. 3). The skin moisturizer content is 9% (glycerin, Butylene glycol, sorbitol).

EP 0194887 describes the use of ethoxylated waxes or triglyceride waxes Manufacture of anhydrous pens.

In WO 9817232 and in lipsticks are described, which are characterized by a higher Mark water content. In addition to the cooling effect described, there is also the substantivity (for example when using colored pigments or pearlescent pigments) in such Sticks that are also supposed to contain higher amounts of skin moisturizers are important was not detailed in the scriptures.

This was not set out in the inventions described above. Further was So far not mentioned that even in the presence of triglycerides grow or ethoxylated Let waxes make cosmetic pencils.

The prior art has other disadvantages. This includes the fact that water soluble Active ingredients are often not sufficiently soluble in fat that they are noticeable in the cosmetic basics would be built. On the other hand, there would be a certain water content quite desirable to ensure the compatibility of the cosmetic pencil with the human To increase skin. Furthermore, pens with very high water contents according to the prior art Technology is not feasible because the water with the hydrophobic oil / wax / emulsifier Matrix is not compatible.

Pens that also have larger concentrations in addition to larger amounts of water water-soluble active ingredients, high concentrations of skin moisturizers (3-50% Glycerin e.g. B.) and fat-soluble active ingredients are not described. There are although pens with larger amounts of water are known. An active moisturizing of the skin that should also last longer and biophysically measurable humidification values like one classic O / W or W / O emulsion, is unknown. This is probably because that only extremely brief humidification is caused by water. Furthermore, low-water or water-free stick formulations are only passively moisturizing, because occlusive waxes are used, which cause water to build up in the skin. An active moistening by a hydrolipid film from water, the larger one Contains amounts of skin moisturizers instead of an occlusive lipid film or just one water-containing pen has not yet been described as advantageous. Such Sun protection or aftersus pencils would be advantageous, however, because then they contain active ingredients Could form hydrolipid films instead of lipid films. In addition, the used waxes occlusive effects like water-free pencils, so that a synergism of water, humectant and wax for such conceived Emulsion sticks result.

Furthermore, it was not previously known that water-containing pencils additionally covered pigments May contain or combinations of cover pigments and pearlescent pigments or only pearlescent pigments. Pearlescent pigments, for example, are therefore difficult to integrate into water-based formulations because they are sensitive to shear, so that the pearlescent effect is absent or only unstable recipes arise. Further must generally the pigments used with the water / humectant / lipid / wax matrix be made compatible.

Cosmetic or dermatological pens should be based on the ideal requirement profile Apply smoothly and without great frictional resistance. In addition, a such wording also meet the requirements that the pen in question must be unbreakable and temperature-resistant and the formulation must not oil out.

If cosmetic or pharmaceutical pens are to contain certain active ingredients, it is conceivable that the other ingredients are not compatible with the active ingredients. This is special often the case when using the cosmetic pencils as sunscreen or Aftersun pens is provided when water-soluble light protection filters are used in larger quantities Pen should be included when water-soluble skin moisturizers are used in large quantities should be included in the pen or if additional bold or water-soluble active ingredients such as pigments, pearlescent pigments, vitamins and / or Antioxidants should be incorporated.

Pearlescent pigments are difficult to integrate into water-based formulations because they are are sensitive to shear so that the pearlescent effect is absent or only unstable recipes arise. Furthermore, the pigments used must generally with the Water / humectant / lipid / wax matrix can be made compatible.

task

Proceeding from this, the invention is based on the object of solid W / O emulsions formulate that in addition to high water content, water-soluble UV filters or water-soluble Pigments or combinations of water-soluble and fat-soluble UV filters and pigments, larger concentrations of skin moisturizers as well Water-soluble or water-dispersible active ingredients in addition to lipid-soluble or lipids dispersible active ingredients (antioxidants, repellents) can be incorporated stably.

• a) eine Fettphase, welche
  • 1. mindestens eine Ölkomponente
  • 2. mindestens eine Wachskomponente umfaßt,
• b) eine Wasserphase, welche
  • 1. 30 bis 85 Gew.-% Wasser sowie
  • 2. 5 bis 50 Gew.-% eines Hautbefeuchtungsmittels gewählt aus der Gruppe Glycerin, Chitosan, Fucogel, Propylenglycol, Polyethylenglycol, Dipropylenglycol, Butylenglycol, Mannitol, Milchsäure, Natriumpyrolidoncarbonsäure, Glycin Hyaluronsäure, Salze der angegebenen Säuren sowie, Harnstoff und Salze von Metallen der ersten und zweiten Hauptgruppe umfaßt,
• c) mindestens eine UVA-Filtersubstanz und/oder mindestens eine UVB-Filtersubstanz und/oder mindestens ein anorganisches Pigment
• d) einen W/O-Emulgator oder ein Gemisch aus mehreren W/O-Emulgatoren, gewählt aus der Gruppe der grenzflächenaktiven Substanzen der allgemeinen Struktur A-B-A', wobei A und A' gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen und B eine hydrophile Gruppe bedeutet,

den Mängeln des Standes der Technik abhelfen. After all of this, it was surprising and unpredictable that W / O emulsions were solid at room temperature

• a) a fat phase, which
  • 1. at least one oil component
  • 2. comprises at least one wax component,
• b) a water phase, which
  • 1. 30 to 85 wt .-% water as well
  • 2. 5 to 50 wt .-% of a skin moisturizer selected from the group glycerol, chitosan, fucogel, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, lactic acid, sodium pyrolidonecarboxylic acid, glycine hyaluronic acid, salts of the specified acids and, urea and salts of metals comprises first and second main group,
• c) at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment
• d) a W / O emulsifier or a mixture of several W / O emulsifiers selected from the group of surface-active substances of the general structure AB-A ', where A and A' represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals and B is a hydrophilic Group means

remedy the shortcomings of the prior art.

• - A und A' gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen,
• - a eine Zahl von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise 2 bis 60, insbesondere 5 bis 40 darstellt,
• - X eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  
• - darstellt,
• - R₁ und R₂ unabhängig voneinander so gewählt werden H, Methyl, daß aber nicht beide Reste gleichzeitig Methyl darstellen,
• - R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-20 Kohlenstoffatomen,

oder daß der oder die W/O-Emulgatoren gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Fettalkohole mit 8-30 Kohlenstoffatomen, Monoglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren, einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Diglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Polyglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen mit bis zu 10 Glycerineinheiten, Monoglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Diglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Triglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Polyglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen mit bis zu 10 Glycerineinheiten, Propylenglycolester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Sorbitanester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Sorbitanester von Polyolen, insbesondere des Glycerins, Pentaerythritylester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Methylglucose Ester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Polyglycerin Methylglucose Ester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C- Atomen, der Glyceryfettsäure Citrate, Cetyl Dimethicon Copolyole, der Alkyl Methicon Copolyole, der Alkyl Dimthicon Ethoxy Glucoside,
oder daß die vorstehend genannten Typen von W/O-Emulgatoren zusätzlich in der Weise polyethoxyliert und/oder polypropoxyliert sind, daß sie ethoxylierte und/oder propopoxylierte W/O-Emulgatoren darstellen. It is preferred if the W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers are selected from the group of substances of the general formula

• A and A 'represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
• a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60, in particular 5 to 40,
• - X is a single bond or the group
  
  
  
• - represents
• R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another such as H, methyl, but not both radicals simultaneously represent methyl,
• R _{3 is} selected from group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-20 carbon atoms,

or that the W / O emulsifier (s) are selected from the group of fatty alcohols with 8-30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids, a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids Chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or un branched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, sorbitan esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or Hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, sorbitan esters of polyols, esp especially glycerin, pentaerythrityl ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, methyl glucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol methyl glucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids, a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, the glycery fatty acid citrate , Cetyl Dimethicon Copolyole, the Alkyl Methicon Copolyole, the Alkyl Dimthicon Ethoxy Glucoside,
or that the aforementioned types of W / O emulsifiers are additionally polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated in such a way that they are ethoxylated and / or propopoxylated W / O emulsifiers.

It is particularly preferred if the W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers are chosen so that the residues A and A 'are advantageously chosen from the group of branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl residues and hydroxyacyl residues with 10-30 carbon atoms and also from the group of the hydroxyacyl groups connected to one another via ester functions, according to the scheme.


where R 'is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and R "is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkylene groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and b can assume numbers from 0 to 200.

It is very particularly preferred if the W / O emulsifier according to the invention are selected from the group PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, decaglyceryl heptaoleate, Polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, PEG-8 distearate, diglycerol dipolyhydroxystearate, Glycerin isostearate, sorbitan isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, steareth-2.

• - A''' und A"" gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen,
• - a eine Zahl von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise 2 bis 60, darstellt,
• - X eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  
• - darstellt,
• - R₁ und R₂ unabhängig voneinander aus der Gruppe H, Methyl gewählt werden, daß aber nicht beide Reste gleichzeitig Methyl darstellen,
• - R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-20 Kohlenstoffatomen,
• - wobei die Reste A''' und A"" können gleich oder verschieden sein und gewählt werden aus der Gruppe
  
  
  
• - wobei R₈ und R₉ gleich oder verschieden sein können und gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-30 Kohlenstoffatomen, p eine Zahl von 1-20 darstellt und Y eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  
• - wobei R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-30 Kohlenstoffatomen.

It is also advantageous if additional stabilizers are included, which are selected from the group of substances of the general formula

• A '''and A "" represent identical or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
• a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60,
• - X is a single bond or the group
  
  
  
• - represents
• R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another from the group H, methyl, but that both radicals do not simultaneously represent methyl,
• R _{3 is} selected from group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-20 carbon atoms,
• - wherein the radicals A '''and A "" can be the same or different and are selected from the group
  
  
  
• - wherein R ₈ and R _{9 may be the} same or different and are selected from the group of saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-30 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 1-20 and Y is a single bond or the group
  
  
  
• - wherein R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals with 1-30 carbon atoms.

In addition, the groups A ″ ″ and A ″ ″ independently of one another can also be alkyl radicals or Represent acyl residues.

The preferred stabilizer is the PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and / or the PEG-22 / - Dodecyl glycol copolymer and / or the methoxy PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer used.

It is further preferred if the oil component or all of the oil components is selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols Chain length from 1 to 44 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic Carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms provided the oil component or the All of the oil components are a liquid at room temperature.

It is particularly preferred if the oil component or all of the Oil components is selected from the group of branched and unbranched Hydrocarbons, cyclic or linear silicone oils, dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the synthetic or natural triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, the triglycerol esters preferably from the group synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils such as olive oil, sunflower oil, Soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil can be selected.

• - der Ester aus gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 80 C-Atomen und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 80 C-Atomen, aus der Gruppe der Ester aus aromatischen Carbonsäuren und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 80 C-Atomen sofern die Wachskomponente oder die Gesamtheit der Wachskomponenten bei Raumtemperatur einen Festkörper darstellen,
• - der natürlichen Wachse,
• - der Diester von Polyolen und C10-C80 Fettsäuren,
• - der ethoxylierten Wachse,
• - der Triglyceridwachse,
• - der C16-C60 Fettsäuren (bzw. deren Salze) und/oder C16-C80 Fettalkohole.

It is further preferred if the wax component or the entirety of the wax components is selected from the group

• the ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 80 C atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 C atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or the entirety of the wax components are a solid at room temperature,
• - natural waxes,
• - the diester of polyols and C10-C80 fatty acids,
• - the ethoxylated waxes,
• - the triglyceride waxes,
• - The C16-C60 fatty acids (or their salts) and / or C16-C80 fatty alcohols.

• - der Ester aus gesättigten verzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 44 C-Atomen und gesättigten verzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 44 C-Atomen, sofern die Wachskomponente oder die Gesamtheit der Wachskomponenten bei Raumtemperatur einen Festkörper darstellen,
• - der natürlichen Wachse,
• - der Diester von Polyolen und C10-C80 Fettsäuren,
• - der ethoxylierten Wachse,
• - der Triglyceridwachse,
• - der C16-C60 Fettsäuren (bzw. deren Salze) und/oder C16-C80 Fettalkohole.

It is particularly preferred if the wax component or the entirety of the wax components is selected from the group

• the ester of saturated branched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated branched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or all of the wax components are solid at room temperature,
• - natural waxes,
• - the diester of polyols and C10-C80 fatty acids,
• - the ethoxylated waxes,
• - the triglyceride waxes,
• - The C16-C60 fatty acids (or their salts) and / or C16-C80 fatty alcohols.

It is further preferred if an additional content of one or more water-soluble and / or water-swellable polymers is present, in particular with Cellulose and / or starch derivatives etherified by alkyl groups, preferably β-glucans, Xanthan gum, dextrans, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and / or Hydroxypropyl cellulose, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymers, poloxamers, with one or several n-octenyl succinate residues of esterified hydrophilic starch.

The W / O emulsions described are particularly suitable as cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations for the prevention or treatment of UV light Damage to the skin.

It is preferred to prepare the emulsions as sticks.

It was surprising that the preparations according to the invention have a high level of incorporation Amounts of water, even in the presence of only small amounts of the invention used emulsifiers allowed. The release is especially of water-soluble active ingredients significantly increased compared to conventional preparations. One example is the increase the sun protection factor: incorporated according to the invention into the formulation Light stabilizers are more effective in lower concentrations than the preparations of the State of the art, for example in comparison to W / O pens with low Water content or compared to anhydrous suspension pens. It can be shown that results in skin moisturizing values that are usually only obtained from flowable O / W or W / O emulsions (Nivea). Furthermore, in the presence of higher ones Concentrations of water and humectant pigments or even pearlescent pigments incorporated. It was surprising that the adhesion of such pen formulations was excellent is, a cooling effect results, the products are not sticky. This was so far remarkable because of the use of larger proportions of water and larger Concentrations of wetting agents (3-60%) significantly less sticky ingredients such as oil components and waxes per rubbed amount of pencil compared to anhydrous Pens or only hydrated pens is available. Furthermore, such colored Pencils also have very good moisturizing properties and therefore differ from usual market products, the humidification effects of which are caused only by occlusion becomes.

It was surprising that in the presence of larger concentrations Let skin moisturizers according to the invention produce emulsion sticks which contain SPF Keep values of 25 or higher. Pens with high SPF values that are also the Cool skin and additionally skin moisturizers and / or active ingredients to the skin are particularly elegant. The SPF was also able to achieve high values combined use of water and fat soluble UV filters and pigments can be realized, titanium dioxide is also advantageous as a pigment. This combined use of Water and fat-soluble UV filters and pigments are different from pure fat pencils relieved because there is an additional water phase in the fixed W / O pencils This enables the water-soluble filter to be released, thus allowing synergism. This applies analogously to pigments dispersible in water. The water phase in such pens has therefore several advantages: it creates a cooling effect, is a medium for solving the Skin moisturizer, allows the dissolution of water-soluble filters and pigments as well other water-soluble active ingredients, gives the pen a pleasant sensor system and allows to offer cheaper formulas compared to pure fat pencils.

But also the cosmetic properties of the water-rich pencils according to the invention prove to be significantly improved over those of the prior art. For example, a pleasant cooling effect on the skin can be achieved even without additional additives achieve by mere application, which is particularly evident when using Sun protection pen, repellent pen, aftersun pen makes it pleasantly noticeable. Aftersun pens, which can be formulated with or without a UV filter in the presence of sunburn subsequent or prophylactic mitigating agents, are due to the cooling effect the application on sunburn-damaged skin advantageous.

When used as a sunscreen pen, repellent pen, aftersun pen, make yourself significant improvements over the prior art noticeable in that for example, to make these pens it is possible to use water-dispersible titanium dioxide use or combinations of lipid-dispersible and water-dispersible metal oxides.

The manufacture of pens according to the invention is very simple, since it is a single The step process involves, for example, the water phase to the hot fat phase is given and then cooled to room temperature.

Furthermore, the inventive method is characterized in that for the production of pens according to the invention a variety of emulsifiers or oil components can be used.

It has surprisingly been found that those used according to the invention water-soluble and / or water-swellable polymers furthermore the Increase skin-friendliness of the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. It will be a achieved a more pleasant feeling when applying the stick mass to the skin.

The oil component or all of the oil components of the invention cosmetic pencils containing water are said to be a liquid at room temperature which Wax component or all of the wax component should be at room temperature form a solid. It is beneficial to the oil components and the wax components to coordinate so that the mixture of oil components and Wax components without remaining components, i.e. without water phase and without Emulsifier, forms a solid at room temperature.

The oil component or all of the oil components of the invention Water-containing cosmetic sticks are preferably selected from the group of the esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids Chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms, from which Group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms provided that the oil component or all of the oil components at room temperature Represent liquid. Such ester oils can then advantageously be chosen from the Group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2- Ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, Oleyl oleate, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons, the silicone oils, lanolins, the adipic acid ester, the Butylene glycol diesters, the dialkyl ethers or carbonates, the group of the saturated or unsaturated, branched alcohols, and fatty acid triglycerides, especially the Triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms. The Fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, Soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like. The oil phase can also advantageously contain cyclic or linear silicone oils have or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred, except the silicone oil or oils an additional content of others To use oil phase components.

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageous as according to the invention using silicone oil. But other silicone oils are also advantageous in the sense of to use the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, Polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example, under Trade name Hallbrite BHB available from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and Butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethylhexyl naphthalate (Hallbrite TQ).

The oil phase is particularly advantageously selected from the group dicaprylyl carbonate, Octyldodecanol, dicaprylyether, ethylhexyl cocoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, di- (2- Ethylhexyl) adipate, cocoglyceride, butyl octyl salicylate, hexyl decyl benzoate, butyl octyl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, lanolin oil, butylene glycol dicaprylate dicaprate, cetearyl isononanoate.

The oil components can advantageously have a content of 0.5 to 80% by weight, based on the total preparation is present, preferably about 1 to 30% by weight.

Unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated, aliphatic Fatty alcohols or fatty acids are used that have a chain length of C22 to C60 have, said alcohols or fatty acids both individually and in a mixture can be present. Beenic acids and even longer-chain fatty acids (C-24-60 fatty acids) are particularly advantageous to use. These can also be shown.

The long chain fatty acids can also be used in the form of their salts (soaps from monovalent, divalent or trivalent cations such as calcium behenate).

For the purposes of the present invention, fatty alcohols or Fatty alcohol mixtures, which can be obtained by saponification of waxes or wax mixtures are. The waxes or wax mixtures used as the starting product can be used as natural products have different compositions.

Advantageous fatty alcohols or fatty alcohol mixtures are, for example, made from beeswax, China wax, bumblebee wax and other insect waxes available.

Also fatty alcohols or fatty alcohol mixtures, which are available from plant waxes, are advantageous in the sense of the present invention. Are preferably usable Cuticular waxes of lower and higher plants, algae, lichens, mosses and fungi, such as for example candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, Cork wax, rice wax, sugar cane wax, fruit waxes, e.g. B. apple wax, flower waxes, Leaf waxes from conifers, coffee wax, flax wax, sesame wax, jojoba oil and the like more.

Rice waxes, fruit waxes such as apple wax, orange wax, Lemon wax, grapefruit wax, laurel wax (= Bayberry wax) and the like, advantageous be used. In addition, these natural waxes can also be used without synthetic Waxes can be used alone.

Waxes of diesters of C10-C80 fatty acids can also be used, where as alcohol component propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, Polypropylene glycol, polyglycerol is chosen. Pentaerythritol tri can also be used orthotetraesters of C10 to C80 fatty acids or corresponding fatty acids of Sorbitan triesters as well Sucrose polyester with 3-8 mol degree of substitution can be used.

For example, the ethylene glycol ester of C18-36 fatty acids (Syncrowax ERL-C) or ethylene glycol distearate and glycol distearate are also suitable.

Furthermore, waxes from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched, aliphatic or aromatic alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched, aliphatic or aromatic alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms, provided that Wax component or the entirety of the wax components at room temperature Represent solid, be selected.

• - Ester aus gesättigten verzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 60 C-Atomen und gesättigten unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 60 C-Atomen, sofern die Wachskomponente oder die Gesamtheit der Wachskomponenten bei Raumtemperatur einen Festkörper darstellen,

und/oder der

• - Ester aus gesättigten unverzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 60 C-Atomen und gesättigten verzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 60 C-Atomen, sofern die Wachskomponente oder die Gesamtheit der Wachskomponenten bei Raumtemperatur einen Festkörper darstellen.

It is preferred to choose the wax components from the group of

• Esters of saturated branched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 60 carbon atoms and saturated unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 60 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or all of the wax components are solid at room temperature,

and / or the

• - Esters from saturated unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 60 carbon atoms and saturated branched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 60 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or all of the wax components are solid at room temperature.

The wax components from the group of the C _{16-35 alkyl} stearates, the C _10-40 alkyl stearates, the C _20-40 alkyl isostearates, the C _20-40 dialkyl dimerates, the C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearates, the C _20-40 dialkyl dimerates, the C _20-40 alkyl erucate can be selected, furthermore C _30-50 alkyl beeswax, cetyl palmitate, methyl palmitate, cetearyl behenate, octacosanyl stearate. Silicone waxes such as stearyltrimethylsilane / stearyl alcohol may also be advantageous.

• - gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Mono- und/oder Dicarbonsäure mit 10 bis 50 Kohlenstoffatomen, bevorzugt 15-45 Kohlenstoffatomen und
• - Glycerin darstellen. Dabei können Mono-, Di- und Triglyceride vorteilhaft sein.

Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are ester waxes, the esters of

• - Saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched mono- and / or dicarboxylic acid having 10 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably 15-45 carbon atoms and
• - represent glycerin. Mono-, di- and triglycerides can be advantageous here.

The glycerides listed below are particularly advantageous:

It is particularly preferred to choose the wax components from the group of triglyceride waxes such as C _18-38 triglyceride or tribehenin.

It has also been found that ethoxylated waxes such as PEG-8 Beeswax, PEG 6 sorbitan beeswax, PEG-2 hydrogenated castoroil, PEG-12 Carnauba waxes are advantageous because they soften the pen matrix and also a enable better solubilization of water-soluble ingredients.

It has also been found that in addition to the use of one of the previously described Certain wax combinations are beneficial.

The wax components can advantageously be present in a content of 0.5 to 80% by weight on the total preparation, about 1 to 20% by weight are preferred.

It is advantageous to roughly determine the ratio of oil and wax components to one another the range of the weight ratios between 4: 1 to 1: 4, in particular 3: 1 to 1: 3, very particularly preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2.

The amount of water can be up to about 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, the optimum water contents usually being in the range between 30 and 80% by weight, preferably between 50 and 75% by weight. If desired, the minimum water content may fall below 10% by weight. But it is bigger Advantage, emulsion sticks according to the invention containing more than 10 wt .-% water equip especially when water-soluble or water-dispersible active ingredients such as skin moisturizers, UV filters, masking pigments, and water-dispersible Pigments in concentrations known to those skilled in the art are to be used.

Glycerol, chitosan, fucogel, Propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, glycine, Lactic acid, sodium pyrolidone carboxylic acid, hyaluronic acid, salts of the specified acids and also use urea and salts of metals of the first and second main groups.

Glycerol, lactic acid, butylene glycol, urea, hyaluronic acid are particularly suitable.

The content of skin moisturizers is advantageously 3% by weight to 60% by weight, preferably 4 to 50 wt .-%, in particular 5 to 40 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the preparations.

Furthermore, the inventive method is characterized in that for the production of pens according to the invention a variety of emulsifiers or oil components can be used.

• - A und A' gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen,
• - a eine Zahl von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise 2 bis 60, insbesondere 5 bis 40 darstellt,
• - X eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  darstellt,
• - R₁ und R₂ unabhängig voneinander aus der Gruppe H, Methyl gewählt werden daß aber nicht beide Reste gleichzeitig Methyl darstellen,
• - R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-20 Kohlenstoffatomen.

The W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers from the substance group ABA 'used according to the invention is or are advantageously selected according to the invention from the group of substances of the general formula

• A and A 'represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
• a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60, in particular 5 to 40,
• - X is a single bond or the group
  
  
  represents,
• R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another from the group H, methyl, but that both radicals do not simultaneously represent methyl,
• - R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals with 1-20 carbon atoms.

The structural formula is not to be interpreted in such a way that all the radicals R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ represented in brackets must be the same in the entire molecule as a result of the index a. Rather, these residues can be found in any of the a fragments


can be freely chosen.

The radicals A and A 'are advantageously selected from the group of the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals and hydroxyacyl radicals having 10-30 carbon atoms and also from the group of the hydroxyacyl groups which are linked to one another via ester functions, according to the scheme


where R 'is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and R "is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkylene groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and b can assume numbers from 0 to 200.

Examples of those to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention A / B-A 'type W / O emulsifiers are PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, Decaglyceryl heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, PEG-8-distearate, diglycerol dipolyhydroxystearate.

According to the invention, the W / O emulsifier or emulsifiers can, however, also be selected from the group of fatty alcohols with 8-30 carbon atoms, saturated monoglycerol esters and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or Hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, Diglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxy carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids Chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, Monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, diglycerol ether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, triglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids Chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, Propylene glycol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxy carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, sorbitan esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, sorbitan esters of polyols, in particular of glycerol, Pentaerythrityl esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxy carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, methyl glucose esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxy carboxylic acids of a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol methyl glucose ester saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or Hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 carbon atoms, cetyl Dimethicone copolyols, alkyl methicone copolyols, alkyl diemethicone ethoxy glucoside, Glyceryl fatty acid citrate.

It can be advantageous according to the invention that the aforementioned types of W / O Emulsifiers are also polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated, or that others polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated products are used, for example polyethoxylated hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated castor oil, ethoxylated Cholesterol, ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as steareth-2, ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated Dicarboxylic acids, ethoxylated waxes such as PEG (-6, -8, -12, -20) beeswax, PEG (-6, -8, -20 sorbitan beeswax), ethoylated carnauba waxes (PEG-12 carnauba wax).

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl alcoholate, glyceryl monostearate, Glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglyceryl monoisostearate, diglyceryl diisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, Propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol monocaprylate, Propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, Sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, 2-ethylhexylglycerol ether, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, Polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, Glyceryl monocaprylate, glyceryl sorbitan stearate polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 sorbitan perisostearate, Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, PEG-5 cholesteryl ether, triglycerol diisostearate.

The W / O emulsifier used according to the invention or those used according to the invention W / O emulsifiers, which or which fit into the scheme A-B-A ', lie or lie advantageous in concentrations of 0.1-25% by weight, although it is possible and it is advantageous to keep the content of emulsifiers low, about up to 5% by weight in each case based on the total weight of the composition. It is beneficial that Total concentration of the W / O emulsifiers, including those emulsifiers that are not in schemes A-B-A 'fit no greater than about 25-30% by weight and no less than to choose about 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations. It can be advantageous according to the invention that the aforementioned types of W / O Emulsifiers are also polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated, or that others polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated products are used, for example polyethoxylated hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated castor oil, ethoxylated Cholesterol, ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as steareth-2.

• - A''' und A"" gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen,
• - a eine Zahl von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise 2 bis 60, darstellt,
• - X eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  
• - darstellt,
• - R₁ und R₂ unabhängig voneinander aus der Gruppe H, Methyl gewählt werden daß aber nicht beide Reste gleichzeitig Methyl darstellen,
• - R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-20 Kohlenstoffatomen.

Emulsions according to the invention can advantageously also contain stabilizers. These are advantageously chosen from the group of substances of the general formula

• A '''and A "" represent identical or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
• a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60,
• - X is a single bond or the group
  
  
  
• - represents
• R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another from the group H, methyl, but that both radicals do not simultaneously represent methyl,
• - R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals with 1-20 carbon atoms.

The structural formula is not to be interpreted in such a way that all the radicals R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ represented in brackets must be the same in the entire molecule as a result of the index a. Rather, these residues can be found in any of the a fragments


can be freely chosen.

The radicals A '''and A "" can be the same or different and are preferably selected from the group


where R ₈ and R _{9 may be the} same or different and are selected from the group of saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-30 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 1-20 and Y represents a single bond or the group


represents, wherein R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals with 1-30 carbon atoms (old).

The preferred stabilizer is the PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, which has the structure


has. It is offered by Akzo Nobel Chemicals GmbH under the name ELFACOS® ST 9. However, the corresponding PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer can also be used advantageously.

In addition, the groups A ″ ″ and A ″ ″ independently of one another can also be alkyl radicals or Represent acyl residues. The methoxy-PEG-22- is also particularly advantageous as a stabilizer. To use dodecyl glycol copolymer. It is owned by the Akzo Nobel company Chemicals GmbH is offered under the name ELFACOS® E 200.

The stabilizer or stabilizers are advantageously in concentrations from 0.01 to 25% by weight, although it is possible and advantageous to use the stabilizer content to keep low, about up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the Composition.

It is particularly advantageous to choose stabilizers when the invention Preparations have a high content of destabilizing substances, for example Sunscreen filters should contain. If the content of destabilizing substances is low, you can do without the stabilizer.

In addition, the emulsions according to the invention can contain dyes and / or pigments contain. The dyes and pigments can be found in the corresponding positive list of Cosmetics regulation or the EC list of cosmetic colorants can be selected. In the in most cases they are made with the colorants approved for food identical. Pigments can be of organic and inorganic origin, such as for example organic of the azo type, indigoids, triphenylmethane-like, anthraquinones, and xanthine dyes, which as D&C and FD&C blues, browns, greens, oranges, reds, yellows are known. Inorganic pigments consist of insoluble salts of certified dyes called lakes or iron oxides. For example Can barium lakes, calcium lakes, aluminum lakes, titanium dioxide, mica and iron oxides Find use. As Al salts z. B. Red 3 Aluminum Lake, Red 21 Aluminum Lake, Red 27 Aluminum Lake, Red 28 Aluminum Lake, Red 33 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 5 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 6 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 10 Aluminum Lake, Orange 5 Aluminum Lake, Blue 1 Aluminum Lake and combinations can be used.

As iron oxides or hydrated oxides such. B. cosmetic yellow oxide C22-8073 (Sunchemical) cosmetic oxide MC 33-120 (Sunchemical), cosmetic brown oxide C33-115 (Nordmann & Rassmann), cosmetic russet oxide C33-8075 (Sunchemical) known and possibly advantageous. Ultramarine blue (Les colorants Wacker) can be used as aluminosilicate. Advantageous color pigments are also titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe ₂ O ₃ , Fe ₃ O ₄ , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the list below. (The fabrics are sorted by their Color Index Number.)

The dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture as well be mutually coated, with different coating thicknesses different color effects are generally produced.

The list of dyes and pigments mentioned in the invention Emulsions that can be used should of course not be limiting.

Pearlescent pigments can also be incorporated into the emulsions according to the invention. These are, for example, from the companies Costenoble (Cloisonne type, Flamenco type, Low Luster type), Merck (Colorona types, Microna type, Timiron type, Colorona, Ronasphere), Les Colornats Wacker (Covapure, Vert oxyde de Chrome), Cadre (Colorona, Sicopearl), BASF (Sicopearl, Sicovit), Rona (Colorona) known.

Timiron Silk Gold, for example, has proven to be a particularly advantageous pearlescent pigment and Colrona Red Gold proven.

Due to the high proportion of the water phase of emulsions according to the invention, both large amounts of hydrophilic and hydrophobic active ingredients can be incorporated into the formulations. Such active substances which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example, acetylsalicylic acid, azulene, ascorbic acid, vitamin B ₁ , vitamin B _12, vitamin D ₁ , but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, in particular the essential fatty acids (often also called vitamin F), in particular γ-linolenic acid, Oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, e.g. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

In addition, care ingredients can be incorporated that do not affect the restrict fat-soluble active ingredients, but also from the group of water-soluble Active ingredients can be selected, for example vitamins and the like.

Advantageous active ingredients are also antioxidants, especially those that not only the components of the formulation, but also the skin from oxidative stress can protect.

The preparations therefore advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. As Inexpensive, yet optional antioxidants can all be used for cosmetic purposes and / or dermatological applications of suitable or customary antioxidants be used. It is advantageous to add antioxidants as the only class of active ingredient use, for example, when a cosmetic or dermatological application in The focus is on combating the oxidative stress on the skin. But it is also cheap, the W / O emulsion sticks according to the invention containing one or to provide several antioxidants if the preparations are for a different purpose should serve z. B. as deodorants or sunscreens.

The antioxidants are particularly advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid ), Aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioglycerin, thiosorbitol, thioglycolic acid, thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, Butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and Sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulf oximine, buthionine sulfones, pentate, hexa-, heptahionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. B. pmol to µmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. B. ascorbyl palmitates, Mg - ascorbyl phosphates, ascorbylacetates), isoascorbic acid and its derivatives, tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, Ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyaniso, nordihydroguajakh resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. Z nO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. B. selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

For the purposes of the present invention, oil-soluble or Oil-dispersible antioxidants are used. However, it has been found that the Invention just the use of water-soluble or water-dispersible antioxidants in Pen formulations opens the gates.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous, their respective concentrations based on the range of 0.001-10 wt .-% based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A, or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives, the or the Antioxidants are beneficial, their respective concentrations out of the range from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

According to the invention, active ingredients can also be selected very advantageously from the group the lipophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group:

Acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, e.g. B. hydrocortisone 17-valerate, vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamins of the B and D series, very cheap vitamin B ₁ , vitamin B _12, vitamin D ₁ , but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often called vitamin F) , in particular γ-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and their derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, e.g. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

It is also advantageous to add the active ingredients from the group of refatting substances choose, for example Purcellinöl®, Eucerit® and Neocerit®.

The pens according to the invention also make an excellent contribution to smoothing the skin, especially if they are provided with one or more substances that the Promote skin smoothing.

An amazing property of the preparations according to the invention is that they are very good Vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological agents in the skin are preferred Active ingredients are antioxidants that protect the skin from oxidative stress can. Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.

The active ingredient (s) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of NO Synthase inhibitors, especially when the preparations according to the invention are used for Treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging as well as for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation to serve on the skin.

The preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.

The active ingredient (s) are also advantageously selected from the group consisting of catechins and bile esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or comprises parts of plants which contain catechins or bile esters of Have catechins, such as the leaves of the Theaceae plant family, especially the species Camellia sinensis (green tea). Their are particularly advantageous typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, Minerals, amino acids, lipids).

Catechins are a group of compounds known as hydrogenated flavones or Anthocyanidins are to be understood and derivatives of "catechins" (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman-3,5,7-triol). Epicatechin too ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active substance in the sense of the present Invention.

Plant extracts containing catechins, in particular, are also advantageous Green tea extracts such as B. Extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec., especially the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis and C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.

Preferred active substances are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) - Epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

Flavon and its derivatives (often also collectively called "flavones") are also advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):

Some of the more important flavones, which can also preferably be used in preparations according to the invention, are listed in the table below:

In nature, flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.

According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula


where Z ₁ to Z ₇ are selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

According to the invention, the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula


where Z ₁ to Z _{6 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

Such structures can preferably be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula


where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

Z ₁ to Z ₅ are advantageously selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure

The flavone glycosides according to the invention from the group which are represented by the following structure are particularly advantageous:


where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

For the purposes of the present invention, the flavone glycoside or flavones is particularly advantageous to choose from the group α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercitrin, α- Glucosylisoquercetin and α-glucosylquercitrin.

According to the invention, α-glucosylrutin is particularly preferred.

Naringin (Aurantün, Naringenin-7-rhamnoglucosid) are also advantageous according to the invention, Hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanon-7-rutinoside, hesperidoside, hesperetin-7- O-rutinoside). Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflyvon-3-rutinoside, quercetin-3-rutinoside, Sophorin, Birutan, Rutablon, Taurutin, Phytomelin, Melin), Troxerutin (3,5-Dihydroxy- 3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), Dihydrorobinetin (3,3 ', 4', 5 ', 7-pentahydroxyflavanone), taxifolin (3,3', 4 ', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), eriodictyol-7-glucoside (3 ', 4', 5,7-Tetrahydroxyflavanon-7-glucoside); Flavanomarein (3 ', 4', 7,8-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside) and isoquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone-3- (β-D-glucopyranoside).

It is also advantageous to use the active ingredient (s) from the group of ubiquinones and To choose plastoquinones.

Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula


and represent the most widespread and thus the best studied bioquinones. Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are called Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 etc. or the number of C atoms as U-5, U-10, U-15, etc. designated. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, e.g. B. in some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. In most mammals, including humans, Q10 predominates.

Coenzyme Q10, which is characterized by the following structural formula, is particularly advantageous:

Plastoquinones have the general structural formula


on. Plastoquinones differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are designated accordingly, e.g. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active substances for the purposes of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:

Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate and creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, Creatine ascorbate and that on the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols esterified derivatives.

Another advantageous active ingredient is L-carnitine [3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) butyric acid betaine]. Also acyl-carnitine, which is selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula


where R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention. Propionylcarnitine and in particular acetylcarnitine are preferred. Both entantiomers (D- and L-form) can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use any mixture of enantiomers, for example a racemate of D and L form.

Other advantageous active ingredients are pyridoxol, aminoguadin, phytochelatin, isoflavones (Genistein, daidzein, daidzin, glycitin), niacin, tyrosine sulfate, dioic acid, adenosine, Pyridoxine, arginine, vitamin K, biotin, flavorings, α-glucosylrutin, tocopherol, Tocopherol acetate, vitamin C, panthenol, creatine, coerizyme Q10, 3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) butyric acid betaine and sericoside.

The list of active substances or combinations of active substances mentioned in the Preparations according to the invention can of course not be limiting his. The active substances can be used individually or in any combination with one another be used.

Advantageous active ingredients are also antioxidants, especially those that not only the components of the formulation, but also the skin from oxidative stress can protect. Particularly advantageous antioxidants are urocanic acid, carnosine, Carotenoids, carotenes, lipoic acid, α-hydroxy fatty acids, α-hydroxy acids, ubiquinone. The Amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is optionally possible and advantageous to prepare the preparations according to the invention as Use base for pharmaceutical formulations. Mutatis mutandis apply corresponding requirements for the formulation of medical preparations. The Transitions between pure cosmetics and pure pharmaceuticals are fluid. As According to the invention, pharmaceutical active substances are basically all classes of active substances suitable, with lipophilic active substances being preferred. Examples are: antihistamines, Anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, antifungals, active substances that promote blood circulation, Keratolytics, antihistamines, anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, antifungals, blood circulation promotional active substances, keratolytics, hormones, steroids, vitamins, hormones, steroids, Vitamins etc.

It is optionally possible and advantageous to use the preparations according to the invention Incorporate repellents. Particularly advantageous repellent active ingredients in the sense of In the present invention, the above-mentioned active ingredients are N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide, 3- (N-n-Butyl-N-acetylamino) propionic acid ethyl ester, 1-piperidinecarboxylic acid 2- (2- hydroxyethyl) -1-methyl propyl ester and dimethyl phthalate.

It is also possible to use additional substances which modify the consistency of the preparations according to the invention, for example thickeners which can be selected from the group of substances which carry at least two hydrophilic radicals which are linked to one another via a hydrophobic group, that is to say the molecular schemes


consequences.

The residues B with the various indices represent hydrophilic groups, the residues A with the various indices of hydrophobic groups.

Such thickeners are preferably selected from the group of triblock copolymers of the type


where m can represent a number from 10 to 10,000, R ₄ and R _{5 can be the} same or different and are selected from the group represented by the general structure


is represented. R ₆ and R ₇ can be selected independently of one another such that they are H and methyl, but that both radicals cannot simultaneously be methyl. q is a number from 2 to 1000, preferably from 10 to 200.

R ₄ and R ₅ can also represent polyol residues (e.g. glyceryl, polyglyceryl, sorbityl, cellulose residues, etc.).

Especially when the preparations according to the invention are characterized by light or easier washability of human skin, it is advantageous to incorporate water-soluble and / or water-swellable polymers into the preparations, in particular cellulose and / or starch derivatives etherified with alkyl groups. Especially β-glucans, xanthan gum, dextrans, hydroxymethyl cellulose are advantageous, Hydroxyethyl cellulose and / or hydroxypropyl cellulose, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl-glycol copolymers, Poloxamers.

Advantageous water-soluble and / or water-swellable polymers can also be chosen to contain hydrophilic starch esterified with one or more n-octenylsuccinate residues. Such starch derivatives are characterized by a structure
Strength-X _n , where X is the rest


symbolizes.

Starch derivatives to be used advantageously according to the invention do not yet officially have any INCI name (international Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient) this should be the Wear the designation "Starch Sodium Octenyl Succinate". Those are particularly advantageous Products sold under the name Amiogum®, in particular Amiogum®23 by Company Cerestar US.

It is preferred to have water soluble and / or water swellable content Polymers in the concentration range of 0.01-5.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-1.0% by weight, to choose.

Such water-soluble and / or water-swellable polymers are incorporated preferably by incorporating it in the water phase and with the water phase, particularly preferred after complete dissolution or swelling in the melted Fat phase of the preparations are given.

Preparations according to the invention contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.

Preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which Absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances z. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6% by weight is, based on the total weight of the preparations, cosmetic and / or to provide dermatological preparations that cover the skin before the whole Protect the area of ultraviolet radiation. You can also use it as a sunscreen serve.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides.

For the purposes of the present invention, such pigments can advantageously be superficial treated ("coated"), for example an amphiphilic or hydrophobic Character should be formed or preserved. This surface treatment can be in it exist that the pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophobic layer.

According to the invention, z. B. titanium dioxide pigments coated with octylsilanol. Suitable titanium dioxide particles are available under the trade name T805 from Degussa. Also particularly advantageous are TiO ₂ pigments coated with aluminum stearate, e.g. B. those available under the trade name MT 100 T from TAYCA.

Another advantageous coating of the inorganic pigments consists of Dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), a mixture of fully methylated, linear siloxane polymers, which are terminally blocked with trimethylsiloxy units. Particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention are zinc oxide pigments coated in this way.

It is also advantageous to coat the inorganic pigments with a mixture of Dimethylpolysiloxane, especially dimethylpolysiloxane with an average Chain length from 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units, and silica gel, which also as Simethicone is called. It is particularly advantageous if the inorganic Pigments additionally with aluminum hydroxide or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS- No .: 1333-84-2) are coated. Titanium dioxides which are particularly advantageous Simethicone and alumina are coated, the coating also containing water can. An example of this is that under the trade name Eusolex T2000 at the company Titanium dioxide available from Merck.

This is an advantageous organic pigment in the sense of the present invention 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [INCI: Bisoctyltriazole], which is sold under the trade name Tinosorb® M by CIBA chemicals GmbH is available.

Advantageous UV-A filter substances in the sense of the present invention are Dibenzoylmethane derivatives, especially the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS no. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the Parsol® 1789 brand and by Merck under the Trade name Eusolex® 9020 is sold.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are furthermore so-called broadband filters, d. H. Filter substances that contain both UV-A and UV-B radiation absorb.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example Bisresorcinyltriazine derivatives. This is particularly preferred 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] - phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCl: Aniso Triazin), which is available under the Commercial name Tinosorb® S is available from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention, which are characterized by high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain several UV A and / or broadband filters, especially dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-Butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyimethane], benzotriazole derivatives [for example that 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol)], phenylene-1,4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or its salts, the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3- bornylidenmethyl) -benzene and / or its salts and / or that 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl) -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, each individually or in any combination with each other.

Also other UV filter substances, which the structural motif


are advantageous UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention, for example the s-triazine derivatives described in European patent application EP 570 838 A1, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula


is reproduced, whereby
R represents a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,
X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group,
R _{1 is} a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of formula


means in which
A represents a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,
R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
n represents a number from 1 to 10,
R _{2 represents} a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, when X represents the NH group, and
a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula


means in which
A represents a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,
R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
n represents a number from 1 to 10,
when X represents an oxygen atom.

A particularly preferred UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula


is reproduced, which is also referred to below as dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: dioctylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3 V.

A symmetrically substituted s- is also advantageous in the sense of the present invention. Triazine, the 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltrümino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), synonym: 2,4,6-tris- [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: octyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150 is distributed.

The European Offenlegungsschrift 775 698 also describes bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives which are preferably to be used, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula


is reproduced, wherein R ₁ , R ₂ and A _{1 represent a} wide variety of organic radicals.

Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2- hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) - 1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, the 2nd , 4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) - 2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-ethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2- ethyl hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (1-methyl-pyrrol-2-yl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- tris (trimethylsiloxysilylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2 "-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and the 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2 "-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} - 6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is that 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), which is available under the Trade name Tinosorb® M is available from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is that 2- (2Hbenzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxydisiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS no .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.

The UV-B and / or broadband filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:
3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer which is available, for example, from Hoffmann La Roche under the trade name Parsol® SLX.
as well as UV filters bound to polymers.

Advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:
Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;
Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene-1,4- bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name bisimidazylate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann & Reimer.
Further advantageous UV-A filter substances are the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts , in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name bisimidazylate, which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP from Haarmann & Reimer is available.
1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo - [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also called benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS no. : 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is that 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl® XL from Chimex.

A further light protection filter substance to be used advantageously according to the invention is that Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the Name Uvinul® N 539 is available.

It can also be of considerable advantage to be polymer-bound or polymeric To use UV filter substances in preparations according to the present invention, in particular those as described in WO-A-92/20690.

Furthermore, it may be advantageous to add further UV-A and / or Incorporation of UV-B filters in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for example certain salicylic acid derivatives such as 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (= octyl salicylate), homomenthyl salicylate.

The list of UV filters mentioned, used in the sense of the present invention of course, should not be limiting.

Furthermore, it may be advantageous to include film formers in the inventive to incorporate cosmetic or dermatological preparations, for example in order to To improve the water resistance of the preparations or to increase the UV protection performance (UV-A and / or UV-B boosting). Both water-soluble and dispersible are suitable as well as fat-soluble film formers, each individually or in combination with one another.

Advantageous water-soluble or dispersible film formers are e.g. B. Polyurethanes (e.g. the Avalure® grades from Goodrich), Dimethicone Copolyol Polyacrylate (Silsoft Surface® from from the Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVPJVA (VA = vinyl acetate) copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder from BASF) etc.

Advantageous fat-soluble film formers are e.g. B., the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)

Copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example PVP, are particularly preferred Hexadecen Copolymer and the PVP Eicosen Copolymer, which among the Trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 available from GAF Chemicals Cooperation are, as well as the Tricontayl PVP and the like.

The preparations according to the invention can advantageously also contain the usual Components of cosmetic pencils are incorporated, e.g. B. the usual auxiliaries and additives such as perfume oils, preservatives, color pigments, light stabilizers, stabilizers.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic preparations are usually not conceivable without the usual auxiliaries and additives. Count among them For example, consistency agents, fillers, perfume, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or Proteins, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances etc.

Examples

All quantities, percentages or parts refer, unless otherwise indicated on the weight, in particular on the total weight of the preparations or of the respective mixtures.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without restricting it. Example 1 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Caprylic / capric 5.24 Cetearyl isononanoate 5.24 Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 5.24 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl 3.00 triazine ethylhexyl triazone 3.00 Titanium dioxide 4.00 PVP / hexadecene copolymer 0.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 glycerin 10.00 tocopherol 1.00 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Caprylic / capric 5.24 Cetearyl isononanoate 5.24 Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 5.24 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7.00 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl 2.50 triazine ethylhexyl triazone 3.00 Titanium dioxide 2.00 PVP / hexadecene copolymer 0.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 glycerin 10.00 tocopherol 1.00 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / Dodecy (glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Caprylic / capric 5.24 Cetearyl isononanoate 5.24 Butylene glycol dicaprylate dicaprate 5.24 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl 2.50 triazine ethylhexyl triazone 3.00 Titanium dioxide 4.00 Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 2.00 caustic soda 0.55 PVP / hexadecene copolymer 0.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 glycerin 10.00 tocopherol 1.00 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Caprylic / capric 5.24 Cetearyl isononanoate 4.10 Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 4.07 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl 2.00 triazine octocrylene 5.00 Diethylhexyl butamido triazon 2.00 Titanium dioxide 4.00 PVP / hexadecene copolymer 0.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 glycerin 10.00 tocopherol 1.00 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Cetearyl isononanoate 15.00 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprat 5.00 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 3.60 Butyl methoxycinnamate 1.00 methylbenzylidene 3.60 Titanium dioxide 3.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 8.50 glycerin 10.00 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Cetearyl isononanoate 10.00 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprat 5.00 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00 Ethylhexyl triazon 3.00 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl 2.50 triazine Titanium dioxide 2.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 8.50 glycerin 10.00 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Cetearyl isononanoate 10.00 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprat 5.00 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00 Ethylhexyl triazon 3.00 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl 2.50 triazine Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate 0.50 caustic soda 0.50 Titanium dioxide 2.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 8.50 glycerin 10.00 preservation 0.50 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Cetearyl isononanoate 5.00 Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 5.00 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprat 5.00 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00 Ethylhexyl triazon 3.00 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl 2.50 triazine Titanium dioxide 2.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 8.50 Glycerin, sodium pyroldione carboxylic acid salt (9: 1) 10.00 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Cetearyl isononanoate 10.00 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprat 5.00 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00 Ethylhexyl triazon 3.00 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl 2.50 triazine Titanium dioxide 2.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 6.00 C _18-36 Acid Triglyceride 4.00 Glycerin, hyaluronic acid salt (9: 1) 10.00 Active ingredients (glyosyl rutin) 00:50 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 dilostearate 1.60 Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 5.24 simethicone 0.50 Glycerin, glycine (9: 1) 10.00 Cetearyl isononanoate 5.24 PVP / hexadecene copolymer 0.50 PEG-8 beeswax 00:50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 8.50 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprat 5.24 Active compound (Q-10) 0.50 preservation 0.58 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00 Ethylhexyl triazon 3.00 Titanium Dioxide + Trimethoxycaprylylsilian 4.00 Bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 2.50 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 5.24 simethicone 0.50 Glycerin, urea (9: 1) 10.00 Cetearyl isononanoate 5.24 PVP / hexadecene copolymer 0.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 8.50 carnauba 00:50 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprat 5.24 Active ingredient (lipoic acid, carnithine 1: 1) 1.00 preservation 0.58 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7.00 Ethylhexyl triazon 3.00 Titanium dioxide 2.00 Bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 2.50 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 dilostearate 1.60 Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 5.24 simethicone 0.50 Glycerin, polyethylene glycol (9: 1) 10.00 Cetearyl isononanoate 5.24 PVP / hexadecene copolymer 0.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 methyl palmitate 1.00 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprat 5.24 Active substance (creatine) 1.00 preservation 0.58 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00 Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 2.00 Caustic soda (105) 0.55 Ethylhexyl triazon 3.00 Titanium Dioxide 2.00 Bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 2.50 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Caprylicl Capric Triglyceride 4.41 simethicone 0.50 Glycerin, fucogel 10.00 Cetearyl isononanoate 4.41 PVP / hexadecene copolymer 0.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprat 4.41 Active substance (adenosine) 1.00 preservation 0.58 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00 Titanium dioxide 2.00 octocrylene 5.00 Bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 2.00 Diethylhexyl butamido triazon 3.00 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 4.07 simethicone 0.50 Glycerin, sodium chloride (5: 5) 10.00 Cetearyl isononanoate 4.07 PVP / hexadecene copolymer 0.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprat 4.07 Active ingredient (tocopherol, vitamin C 1: 3)) 4.00 preservation 0.58 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00 octocrylene 5.00 Titanium Dioxide 4.00 Bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 2.00 Diethylhexyl butamido triazon 2.00 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 sorbitan 1.60 Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 4.40 simethicone 0.50 glycerin 10.00 Cetearyl isononanoate 4.40 PVP / hexadecene copolymer 0.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprat 4.40 Active ingredient (biotin, tocopherol, 1: 1) 1.00 preservation 0.58 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7.00 Ethylhexyl triazon 3.00 Titanium Dioxide 4.00 Bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 2.50 Perfume 0.50 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate 1.60 Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 4.57 simethicone 0.50 glycerin 10.00 dicaprylyl 4.57 PVP / hexadecene copolymer 0.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprat 4.57 Active ingredient (panthenol, tocopherol 1: 1) 1.00 preservation 0.58 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate + BHT 5.00 Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 2.00 Caustic soda (10%) 0.55 Ethylhexyl triazon 3.00 Bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 2.00 Titanium Dioxide + Alumina + Simethicon + Aqua 4.00 Perfume 0.50 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 4.40 simethicone 0.50 glycerin 10.00 Cetearyl isononanoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate (1.1) 4.40 PVP / hexadecene copolymer 0.50 C ₂₀₄₀ alkyl stearate 9.00 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprat 4.40 Active ingredient (zinc salt, bisabolol 1: 1) 1.00 preservation 0.58 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7.00 Ethylhexyl triazon 3.00 Bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 2.50 Titanium Dioxide + Alumina + Simethicon + Aqua 4.00 Perfume 0.50 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate 1.60 Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 5.07 simethicone 0.50 glycerin 10.00 Cetearyl isononanoate, lanolin oil 5.07 PVP / hexadecene copolymer 0.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprat 5.07 active substance 1.00 preservation 0.58 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00 Ethylhexyl triazone 3.00 Bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 2.50 Titanium Dioxide + Alumina + Simehticon + Aqua 4.00 Perfume 0.50 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Caprylic / Capric triglyceride, cocoglyceride 4.74 simethicone 0.50 glycerin 10.00 Cetearyl isononanoate 4.74 PVP / hexadecene copolymer 0.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprat 4.74 Active ingredient (tocopherol acetate) 1.00 preservation 0.58 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00 Ethylhexyl triazon 3.00 Bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 2.50 Silica dimethyl silyate 1.00 Titanium Dioxide + Alumina + Simehticon + Aqua 4.00 Perfume 0.50 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Caprylic / capric 5.24 Cetearyl isononanoate 5.24 Butylene glycol dicaprylate dicaprate 5.24 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl 3.00 triazine ethylhexyl triazone 3.00 Titanium dioxide * and propylene glycol 2:00 PVP / hexadecene copolymer 0.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 glycerin 10.00 tocopherol 1, 00 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 * Water dispersible titanium dioxide: Tioveil AQ + 10% propylene glycol from Tioxid Specialties

Claims (12)

1. Containing solid W / O emulsions at room temperature a) a fat phase, which 1. at least one oil component 2. comprises at least one wax component, b) a water phase, which 1. 30 to 85 wt .-% water as well 2. 5 to 50 wt .-% of a skin moisturizing agent selected from the group glycerol, chitosan, fucogel, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, lactic acid, glycine, sodium pyrolidonecarboxylic acid, hyaluronic acid, salts of the specified acids and, urea and salts of metals the first and second main groups, c) at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment d) a W / O emulsifier or a mixture of several W / O emulsifiers selected from the group of surface-active substances of the general structure AB-A ', where A and A' represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals and B is a hydrophilic Group means. 2. W / O emulsions according to claim 1, characterized in that the W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers are selected from the group of substances of the general formula


A and A 'represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60, in particular 5 to 40,
X is a single bond or the group


represents,
R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another such as H, methyl, but not both radicals simultaneously represent methyl,
R _{3 is} selected from group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-20 carbon atoms,
or that the W / O emulsifiers are selected from the group of fatty alcohols with 8-30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C. -Atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, saturated monoglycerol ethers and / or unsaturated, branched and / or straight own alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, propylene glycol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, sorbitan esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids Chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, sorbitan esters of polyols, in particular of glycerol, pentaery thritylesters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, methylglucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8 -24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms, polyglycerol methylglucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms, the glycery fatty acid citrates, cetyl dimethicone copolyols , the alkyl methicon copolyols, the alkyl dimthicone ethoxy glucoside,
or that the aforementioned types of W / O emulsifiers are additionally polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated in such a way that they are ethoxylated and / or propopoxylated W / O emulsifiers. 3. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers are chosen so that the radicals A and A 'are advantageously chosen from the group of branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals and hydroxyacyl radicals having 10-30 carbon atoms and also from the group of the hydroxyacyl groups which are linked to one another via ester functions, according to the scheme


where R 'is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and R "is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkylene groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and b can assume numbers from 0 to 200. 4. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the W / O emulsifier (s) are selected from the group PEG 30 dipolyhydroxystearate, decaglyceryl heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, PEG-8 Distearate, diglycerol dipolyhydroxystearate, glycerol isostearate, sorbitan isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, steareth-2. 5. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the stabilizer or stabilizers is selected from the group of substances of the general formula


A '''and A "" represent identical or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60,
X is a single bond or the group


represents,
R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another from the group H, methyl, but that both radicals do not simultaneously represent methyl,
R _{3 is} selected from group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-20 carbon atoms,
where the radicals A '''and A "" can be the same or different and are selected from the group


where R ₈ and R _{9 may be the} same or different and are selected from the group of saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-30 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 1-20 and Y represents a single bond or the group

where R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-30 carbon atoms.
Furthermore, the groups A ″ ″ and A ″ ″ can independently represent alkyl radicals or acyl radicals. 6. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the stabilizer is the PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and / or PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and / or the methoxy PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol Copolymer can be used. 7. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the oil component or all of the oil components selected is selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length from 1 to 44 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols Chain length from 1 to 30 carbon atoms provided the oil component or all of the Oil components are a liquid at room temperature. 8. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the oil component or all of the oil components selected is from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons, lanolins, the Adipic acid ester, the butylene glycol diester of cyclic or linear silicone oils, the Dialkyl ethers, the dialkyl carbonates, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the synthetic or natural triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C- Atoms, the branched and unbranched salicylates and benzoates. 9. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax component or the entirety of the wax components is selected from the group
the ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 80 C atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 C atoms, from the group the ester of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms if the wax component or the entirety of the wax components represent a solid at room temperature,
natural waxes,
the diester of polyols and C10-C80 fatty acids,
the ethoxylated waxes,
the triglyceride waxes,
the C16-C60 fatty acids (or their salts) and / or C16-C80 fatty alcohols. 10. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax component or the entirety of the wax components is selected from the group
the ester of saturated branched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated branched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or all of the wax components are solid at room temperature,
natural waxes,
the diester of polyols and C10-C80 fatty acids,
the ethoxylated waxes,
the triglyceride waxes,
the C16-C60 fatty acids (or their salts) and / or C16-C80 fatty alcohols. 11. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, by a additional content of one or more water-soluble and / or with water characterized swellable polymers, in particular cellulose etherified with alkyl groups and / or starch derivatives, preferably β-glucans, xanthan gum, dextrans, Hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and / or hydroxypropyl cellulose, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl Glycol copolymers, poloxamers, with one or more n-octenyl succinate residues esterified hydrophilic starch. 12. Use of W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding Claims as cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations for prevention or Treatment of skin damage caused by UV light.