DE10148301A1 - Solid water/oil emulsion, used as moisturizing, anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, cleansing, sun protection, after-sun, lip salve or decorative cosmetic stick contains oil, wax, moisturizer in aqueous phase and emulsifier - Google Patents

Abstract

Water/oil (W/O) emulsion, which is solid at room temperature, contains: (a) a fat phase of (a1) oil component(s) and (a2) wax component(s); (b) an aqueous phase of (b1) 30-85 wt.% water and (b2) 5-50 wt.% skin moisturizer selected from specified compounds; and (c) W/O emulsifier(s) selected from surfactants with 2 identical or different hydrophobic organic groups on a hydrophilic bridge. Water/oil (W/O) emulsion, which is solid at room temperature, contains: (a) a fat phase of (a1) oil component(s) and (a2) wax component(s); (b) an aqueous phase of (b1) 30-85 wt.% water and (b2) 5-50 wt.% skin moisturizer selected from glycerol, chitosan, fucogel, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, lactic acid, glycine, sodium pyrrolidone-carboxylic acid, hyaluronic acids, salts of these acids, urea and salts of group IA and IIA metals; and (c) W/O emulsifier(s) selected from surfactants of formula (I). A-B-A' (I) A, A' = the same or different hydrophobic organic groups; and B = a hydrophilic group. An Independent claim is also included for cosmetic and/or dermatological stick containing the emulsion, which can be spread and stored in a temperature range from -10 to 50 deg C.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic pencils, which are characterized by a high Water content and high amounts of skin moisturizers and W / O- Represent emulsions.

In particular, the present invention relates to pens for the prevention of wrinkles and Anti wrinkle pens. These can also include light protection filters, pigments, powder substances, other active ingredients and / or repellents included.

Technically speaking, most pen formulations are anhydrous fat blends solid or semi-solid waxes and liquid oils, with the highly purified paraffin oils and waxes represent the lipstick base. There are also water-containing preparations known, which are sometimes also in the form of W / O emulsions.

Common basic materials of the prior art for stick-like preparations are for example liquid oils (e.g. paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate), semi-solid components (e.g. petroleum jelly, lanolin), solid components (e.g. beeswax, ceresin and microcrystalline Waxes or ozokerite), high-melting waxes (e.g. carnauba wax, candelilla wax).

Commercial anti-wrinkle products are mostly lotion, creams, gel creams that contain of active ingredients to reduce wrinkles in the skin. It would be desirable to be able to apply these active ingredients specifically to the affected skin areas. To do this stick formulations, which are currently only available in the form of lip care sticks, Foundation pens and the like are known and are not intended to reduce or Prophylaxis of wrinkles are designed. Such pens would be advantageous because they specifically target areas the corners of the mouth or around the eyes and forehead could be applied. Furthermore, the applied pen ingredients are expected to spread less on the skin, which could be particularly beneficial in the eye area.

A cosmetic pen should not be greasy, blunt even with slight pressure or sticky but sticky grease film to the skin. Through this The lips or skin should then be made greasy and smooth.

Among other things, there is a considerable deficiency in the formulations of the prior art in that, because of the low water content, emulsion sticks which are acceptable per se It was practically impossible to use water-soluble UV filter substances in such formulations incorporate. Another object of the present invention was to use pens only water-soluble UV filters or water-dispersible pigments (for example Titanium dioxide) accessible or combinations of water-soluble and fat-soluble UV filters.

DE 23 35 549 describes a method for producing a cosmetic stick a W / O emulsion known. According to this teaching, a polyhydroxy compound and a non-ionic, surface-active compound a gel, this with a cosmetic basis mixed and water emulsified into the mixture.

DE 41 28 748 describes cosmetic pens, which are characterized in that they represent emulsions and as essential components beeswax, one or several esters of a saturated carboxylic acid with 20-40 carbon atoms and one saturated alcohol with 14-34 carbon atoms, water, and optionally further Contain lipids and / or customary auxiliaries and additives.

US 4,719,103 describes an antiperspirant stick based on a W / O emulsion, which contains a high proportion of water, which is characterized by a content of volatile silicone components, a solid alkanol and polyglycerol fatty acid esters, for example polyglyceryl isostearate, as an emulsifier. US 4,704,271 and US 4,725,431 describe similar preparations.

EP 0 748 622 describes pens with volatile oils, water-repellent polymers, which in volatile oil are soluble and non-volatile oils as well as powder ingredients.

GB 2 162 439 describes paraffin-containing sticks which have a high water content should contain, wherein the emulsifiers are selected from the group of metal salts.

DE 196 43 237 describes cosmetic pencils which are characterized by a higher water content distinguished. These include certain wax and oil components, certain W / O emulsifiers in addition to 30 to 85 wt .-% water. The use of larger Amounts of skin moisturizers are not described, only in the examples Use of 2 wt .-% glycerol disclosed.

DE 299 19 474 describes W / O emulsion sticks. By the use of Polysaccharides create a three-dimensional structure that gives the pins more stability should lend. The use of high amounts of skin moisturizer even in the presence pigments are not described. The waiver of the polysaccharides while preserving the pin structure is not considered advantageous.

In DE 200 09 445 pens are claimed which contain only small amounts of water (25%). Nothing is said about skin moisturizers.

EP 1064908 describes emulsion sticks which contain only very small amounts of water included (14%, p. 4, ex. 3). The skin moisturizer content is 9% (glycerin, Butylene glycol, sorbitol).

EP 0 194 887 describes the use of ethoxylated waxes or triglyceride waxes Manufacture of anhydrous pens.

In WO 9817232 and in lipsticks are described, which are characterized by a higher Mark water content. In addition to the cooling effect described, there is also the substantivity (for example when using colored pigments or pearlescent pigments) in such Pens, which should also contain higher amounts of skin moisturizers, is important was not detailed in the scriptures.

This was not set out in the inventions described above. Further was So far not mentioned that even in the presence of triglycerides grow or ethoxylated Let waxes make cosmetic pencils.

Pens that also have larger concentrations in addition to larger amounts of water water-soluble active ingredients, high concentrations of skin moisturizers (3-50% glycerin z. B.) and fat-soluble active ingredients are not described. They are pens known with larger amounts of water. An active moisturizing of the skin, which also lasts longer should persist and biophysically measurable humidification values like a classic O / W or W / O emulsion is unknown. This is probably due to the fact that Water is only caused an extremely brief humidification. Furthermore are Low-water or water-free stick formulations only passively moisturize because they are occlusive Waxes are used that cause water to build up in the skin. An active one Humidification through a hydrolipid film made of water, which additionally larger amounts of Contains skin moisturizers instead of an occlusive lipid film or one containing only water The pen has not yet been described. Such pens would be advantageous because could then form active ingredient-containing hydrolipid films instead of lipid films. Furthermore, could in addition, the waxes used have occlusive effects as with water-free pencils are created, so that a synergism of water, humectant and wax for emulsion sticks designed in this way results.

The prior art has other disadvantages. This includes the fact that water soluble Active ingredients are often not sufficiently soluble in fat that they are noticeable in the cosmetic basics would be built. On the other hand, there would be a certain water content quite desirable to ensure the compatibility of the cosmetic pencil with the human To increase skin. Furthermore, pens with very high water contents according to the prior art Technology is not feasible because the water with the hydrophobic oil / wax / emulsifier Matrix is not compatible.

Furthermore, it was not previously known that water-containing pencils additionally covered pigments May contain or combinations of cover pigments and pearlescent pigments or only pearlescent pigments. Pearlescent pigments, for example, are therefore difficult to integrate into water-based formulations because they are sensitive to shear, so that the pearlescent effect is absent or only unstable recipes arise. Further must generally the pigments used with the water / humectant / lipid / wax matrix be made compatible.

Cosmetic or dermatological pens should be based on the ideal requirement profile Apply smoothly and without great frictional resistance. In addition, a such wording also meet the requirements that the pen in question must be unbreakable and temperature-resistant and the formulation must not oil out.

If cosmetic or pharmaceutical pens are to contain certain active ingredients, it is conceivable that the other ingredients are not compatible with the active ingredients. This is special often the case when water-soluble light protection filters are contained in the pen in large quantities should be if for the manufacture of a prophylactic anti-wrinkle stick or Anti-wrinkle water-soluble active ingredients incorporated in amounts known to those skilled in the art should be when water-soluble skin moisturizers in large amounts in the pen should be included or if additional bold or water-soluble active ingredients such as light protection filters, pigments, pearlescent pigments, powder or Vitamins and antioxidants should be incorporated.

Pearlescent pigments are difficult to integrate into water-based formulations because they are are sensitive to shear so that the pearlescent effect is absent or only unstable recipes arise. Furthermore, the pigments used must generally with the Water / humectant / lipid / wax matrix can be made compatible.

Among other things, there is a considerable deficiency in the formulations of the prior art in that, because of the low water content, emulsion sticks which are acceptable per se Water-soluble anti-wrinkle agents in such formulations were practically impossible incorporate. There is also a lack of water and fat-soluble active ingredients combine. For example, water-soluble or dispersible active ingredients such as vitamin C, carnitine, lipoic acid, alpha hydroxy acids are difficult to use according to the prior art Anti-wrinkle ingredients are incorporated.

Proceeding from this, the invention is based on the object of solid W / O emulsions formulate that in addition to high water content and a high content of Skin moisturizers and water-soluble anti-wrinkle agents or combinations from water-soluble and fat-soluble anti-wrinkle active ingredients also solids such as pigments, Powder materials and UV filters as well as both water-soluble and water-dispersible Active ingredients in addition to lipid-soluble or lipid-dispersible active ingredients, in particular Antioxidants, UV filters, repellents can be incorporated stably.

• a) eine Fettphase, welche
  • 1. mindestens eine Ölkomponente
  • 2. mindestens eine Wachskomponente umfaßt,
• b) eine Wasserphase, welche
  • 1. 30 bis 85 Gew.-% Wasser sowie
  • 2. 5 bis 50 Gew.-% eines Hautbefeuchtungsmittels gewählt aus der Gruppe Glycerin, Chitosan, Fucogel, Glycin Propylenglycol, Polyethylenglycol, Dipropylenglycol, Butylenglycol, Mannitol, Milchsäure, Natriumpyrolidoncarbonsäure, Hyaluronsäure, Salze der angegebenen Säuren sowie, Harnstoff und Salze von Metallen der ersten und zweiten Hauptgruppe umfaßt,
• c) mindestens einen gegen Falten wirksamen Stoff
• d) einen W/O-Emulgator oder ein Gemisch aus mehreren W/O-Emulgatoren, gewählt aus der Gruppe der grenzflächenaktiven Substanzen der allgemeinen Struktur A-B-A', wobei A und A' gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen und B eine hydrophile Gruppe bedeutet,

den Mängeln des Standes der Technik abhelfen. After all of this, it was surprising and unpredictable that W / O emulsions were solid at room temperature

• a) a fat phase, which
  • 1. at least one oil component
  • 2. comprises at least one wax component,
• b) a water phase, which
  • 1. 30 to 85 wt .-% water as well
  • 2. 5 to 50 wt .-% of a skin moisturizer selected from the group glycerol, chitosan, fucogel, glycine, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, lactic acid, sodium pyrolidonecarboxylic acid, hyaluronic acid, salts of the specified acids and, urea and salts of metals comprises first and second main group,
• c) at least one anti-wrinkle substance
• d) a W / O emulsifier or a mixture of several W / O emulsifiers selected from the group of surface-active substances of the general structure AB-A ', where A and A' represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals and B is a hydrophilic Group means

remedy the shortcomings of the prior art.

• - A und A' gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen,
• - a eine Zahl von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise 2 bis 60, insbesondere 5 bis 40 darstellt,
• - X eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  
• - darstellt,
• - R₁ und R₂ unabhängig voneinander so gewählt werden H, Methyl, daß aber nicht beide Reste gleichzeitig Methyl darstellen,
• - R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-20 Kohlenstoffatomen,

oder daß der oder die W/O-Emulgatoren gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Fettalkohole mit 8-30 Kohlenstoffatomen, Monoglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Diglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxyalkansäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxyalkansäurenn einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Polyglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxyalkansäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen mit bis zu 10 Glycerineinheiten, Monoglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Diglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Triglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Polyglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen mit bis zu 10 Glycerineinheiten, Propylenglycolester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxyalkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Sorbitanester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxyalkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Sorbitanester von Polyolen, insbesondere des Glycerins, Pentaerythritylester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxalkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Methylglucose Ester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxyalkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen, Polyglycerin Methylglucose Ester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren oder Hydroxyalkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8-24, insbesondere 12-18 C-Atomen der Glyceryfettsäure Citrate, Cetyl Dimethicon Copolyole, der Alkyl Methicon Copolyole, der Alkyl Dimethicon Ethoxy Glucosid,
oder daß die vorstehend genannten Typen von W/O-Emulgatoren zusätzlich in der Weise polyethoxyliert und/oder polypropoxyliert sind, daß sie ethoxylierte und/oder propopoxylierte W/O-Emulgatoren darstellen. It is preferred if the W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers are selected from the group of substances of the general formula


in which

• A and A 'represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
• a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60, in particular 5 to 40,
• - X is a single bond or the group
  
  
  
• - represents
• R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another such as H, methyl, but not both radicals simultaneously represent methyl,
• R _{3 is} selected from group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-20 carbon atoms,

or that the W / O emulsifier (s) are selected from the group of fatty alcohols with 8-30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms , Diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8 -24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanoic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a ke length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol ether of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, sorbitan esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkane carboxylic acids of a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, sorbitan esters of polyols, especially of glycer ins, pentaerythrityl ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxalkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, methylglucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol methyl glucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms of the glycery fatty acid citrate, cetyl dimethicone Copolyols, the alkyl methicon copolyols, the alkyl dimethicone ethoxy glucoside,
or that the aforementioned types of W / O emulsifiers are additionally polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated in such a way that they are ethoxylated and / or propopoxylated W / O emulsifiers.

It is particularly preferred if the W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers are chosen so that the residues A and A 'are advantageously chosen from the group of branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl residues and hydroxyacyl residues with 10-30 carbon atoms and also from the group of the hydroxyacyl groups connected to one another via ester functions, according to the scheme.


where R 'is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and R "is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkylene groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and b can assume numbers from 0 to 200.

It is very particularly preferred if the W / O emulsifier (s) are selected from the group PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, decaglyceryl heptaoleate, Polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, PEG-8 distearate, diglycerol dipolyhydroxystearate, glycerol isostearate, Sorbitan isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, steareth-2.

• - A''' und A'''' gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen,
• - a eine Zahl von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise 2 bis 60, darstellt,
• - X eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  
• - darstellt,
• - R₁ und R₂ unabhängig voneinander aus der Gruppe H, Methyl gewählt werden, daß aber nicht beide Reste gleichzeitig Methyl darstellen,
• - R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-20 Kohlenstoffatomen,
• - wobei die Reste A''' und A'''' können gleich oder verschieden sein und gewählt werden aus der Gruppe
  
  
  
• - wobei R₈ und R₉ gleich oder verschieden sein können und gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-30 Kohlenstoffatomen, p eine Zahl von 1-20 darstellt und Y eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  darstellt,
• - wobei R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-30 Kohlenstoffatomen.

It is also advantageous if additional stabilizers are included, which are selected from the group of substances of the general formula


in which

• A '''andA''''represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
• a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60,
• - X is a single bond or the group
  
  
  
• - represents
• R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another from the group H, methyl, but that both radicals do not simultaneously represent methyl,
• R _{3 is} selected from group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-20 carbon atoms,
• - wherein the radicals A '''andA''''can be the same or different and can be selected from the group
  
  
  
• - wherein R ₈ and R _{9 may be the} same or different and are selected from the group of saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-30 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 1-20 and Y is a single bond or the group
  
  
  represents,
• - wherein R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals with 1-30 carbon atoms.

Furthermore, the groups A '' 'and A' '' ', independently of one another, can also be alkyl radicals or Represent acyl residues.

The preferred stabilizer is the PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and / or the PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and / or the methoxy PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer used.

It is further preferred if the oil component or all of the oil components is selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols Chain length from 1 to 44 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic Carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms provided the oil component or the All of the oil components are a liquid at room temperature.

It is particularly preferred if the oil component or all of the Oil components is selected from the group of branched and unbranched Hydrocarbons, cyclic or linear silicone oils, dialkyl ethers, the saturated group or unsaturated, branched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the synthetic or natural triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms,

• - der natürlichen Wachse,
• - der Diester von Polyolen und C10-C80 Fettsäuren,
• - der ethoxylierten Wachse,
• - der Triglyceridwachse,
• - der C16-C60 Fettsäuren (bzw. deren Salze) und/oder C16-C80 Fettalkohole.

It is further preferred if the wax component or all of the wax components are selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or The entirety of the wax components form a solid at room temperature,

• - natural waxes,
• - the diester of polyols and C10-C80 fatty acids,
• - the ethoxylated waxes,
• - the triglyceride waxes,
• - The C16-C60 fatty acids (or their salts) and / or C16-C80 fatty alcohols.

• - der Ester aus gesättigten verzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 44 C-Atomen und gesättigten verzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 44 C-Atomen, sofern die Wachskomponente oder die Gesamtheit der Wachskomponenten bei Raumtemperatur einen Festkörper darstellen,
• - der natürlichen Wachse,
• - der Diester von Polyolen und C10-C80 Fettsäuren,
• - der ethoxylierten Wachse,
• - der Triglyceridwachse,
• - der C16-C60 Fettsäuren (bzw. deren Salze) und/oder C16-C80 Fettalkohole.

It is particularly preferred if the wax component or the entirety of the wax components is selected from the group

• the ester of saturated branched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated branched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or all of the wax components are solid at room temperature,
• - natural waxes,
• - the diester of polyols and C10-C80 fatty acids,
• - the ethoxylated waxes,
• - the triglyceride waxes,
• - The C16-C60 fatty acids (or their salts) and / or C16-C80 fatty alcohols.

It is further preferred if an additional content of one or more water-soluble and / or water-swellable polymers is present, in particular with Cellulose and / or starch derivatives etherified by alkyl groups, preferably β-glucans, Xanthan gum, dextrans, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and / or Hydroxypropyl cellulose, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymers, poloxamers, with one or several n-octenyl succinate residues of esterified hydrophilic starch.

The W / O emulsions described are particularly suitable as cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations for the treatment of acne diseases of the skin.

It is preferred to prepare the emulsions as sticks.

It was surprising that the preparations according to the invention have a high level of incorporation Amounts of water, even in the presence of only small amounts of the invention used emulsifiers allowed. The release is especially of water-soluble active ingredients significantly increased compared to conventional preparations. One example is the increase the sun protection factor: incorporated according to the invention into the formulation Light stabilizers are more effective in lower concentrations than the preparations of the State of the art, for example in comparison to W / O pens with low Water content or compared to anhydrous suspension pens. It can be shown that Skin moisturization values result, which can usually only be obtained from flowable O / W or W / O emulsions known (Nivea). Furthermore, in the presence of higher ones Concentrations of water and humectant pigments or even pearlescent pigments incorporated. It was astonishing that the adhesion of such pen formulations is excellent, a cooling effect results, the products are not sticky. This was remarkable in that through the use of larger proportions of water and larger concentrations Moisturisers (3-60%) contain significantly less adhesive ingredients such as oil components and waxes per rubbed amount of pencil compared to water-free pencils or only hydrated pens is available. Furthermore, such colored pens also have a lot good moisturizing properties and therefore differ from usual Market products whose moisturizing effects are only caused by occlusion. Also led also incorporated pigments for a wrinkle-covering effect.

It was surprising that in the presence of larger concentrations Allow skin moisturizers to produce emulsion sticks according to the invention which have SPF values of 25 or get higher. Pencils with high SPF values that cool and cool the skin at the same time additionally give skin moisturizers and / or active ingredients to the skin are special elegant. High SPF values could also be achieved through the combined use of water and fat-soluble UV filters can be realized, with titanium dioxide as a pigment is advantageous. This combined use of water and fat-soluble UV filters is in the Difference to pure fat pencils makes it easier because there is an additional one in the fixed W / O pencils Water phase is present, which enables the water-soluble filter to be released and so on allows synergism. This applies analogously to pigments dispersible in water. The Water phase in such pens therefore has several advantages: it creates a cooling effect, is a medium for dissolving the skin moisturizers, allows the dissolution of water-soluble Filters and pigments as well as other water-soluble active ingredients, give the pen a pleasant sensor technology and allows more cost-effective recipes compared to pure ones To offer bold pencils.

But also the cosmetic properties of the water-rich pencils according to the invention prove to be significantly improved over those of the prior art. For example, a pleasant cooling effect on the skin can be achieved even without additional additives achieve by mere application, which is particularly evident when using prophylactic anti-wrinkle or as anti-wrinkle makes it pleasantly noticeable.

When used as foundation pens or concealers containing counter Wrinkle-effective substances make significant improvements over the state of the art Technology noticeable in that it is possible, for example, to manufacture these pens use water-dispersible titanium dioxide or combinations of lipid-dispersible and water-dispersible metal oxides.

Furthermore, the inventive method is characterized in that for the production of pens according to the invention a variety of emulsifiers or oil components can be used.

It has surprisingly been found that those used according to the invention water-soluble and / or water-swellable polymers furthermore the Increase skin-friendliness of the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. It will be a achieved a more pleasant feeling when applying the stick mass to the skin.

The oil component or all of the oil components of the invention cosmetic pencils containing water are said to be a liquid at room temperature which Wax component or all of the wax component should be at room temperature form a solid. It is beneficial to the oil components and the wax components to coordinate so that the mixture of oil components and Wax components without remaining components, i.e. without water phase and without Emulsifier, forms a solid at room temperature.

The oil component or all of the oil components of the invention Water-containing cosmetic sticks are preferably selected from the group of the esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids Chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms, from which Group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms provided that the oil component or all of the oil components at room temperature Represent liquid. Such ester oils can then advantageously be chosen from the Group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2- Ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, Oleyl oleate, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons, the silicone oils, lanolins, the adipic acid ester, the Butylene glycol diesters, the dialkyl ethers or carbonates, the group of the saturated or unsaturated, branched alcohols, and fatty acid triglycerides, especially the Triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms. The Fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, Soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

The oil phase can also advantageously contain cyclic or linear silicone oils have or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred, except the silicone oil or oils an additional content of others To use oil phase components.

Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example, under Trade name Hallbrite BHB available from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and Butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethylhexyl naphthalate (Hallbrite TQ).

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageous as according to the invention using silicone oil. But other silicone oils are also advantageous in the sense of to use the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, Polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Very particularly advantageous oil components can be selected from the group ethylhexyl cocoate, Myristyl myristate, dicaprylyl carbonate, cetearyl isononanoate, octyldodecanol, polydencenes, Squalane, dicaprylyl ether, triisostearin, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, castor oil, caprylic Capric acid triglyceride, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate), lanolin oil, isopropyl palmitate, cocoglyceride to get voted. There are also natural oils such as avocado oil and macadamia oil particularly advantageous.

The oil components can advantageously have a content of 0.5 to 80% by weight, based on the total preparation is present, preferably about 1 to 20% by weight.

It can be unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated, aliphatic fatty alcohols or fatty acids can be used, which have a chain length of C22 to C60, the mentioned alcohols or fatty acids can be present both individually and in a mixture. Bhenic acids and even longer-chain fatty acids (C-24-60 fatty acids) are special to use advantageously. These can also be shown.

The long chain fatty acids can also be used in the form of their salts (soaps from monovalent, divalent or trivalent cations such as calcium behenate)

For the purposes of the present invention, fatty alcohols or Fatty alcohol mixtures, which can be obtained by saponification of waxes or wax mixtures are. The waxes or wax mixtures used as the starting product can be used as natural products have different compositions.

Advantageous fatty alcohols or fatty alcohol mixtures are, for example, made from beeswax, China wax, bumblebee wax and other insect waxes available.

Also fatty alcohols or fatty alcohol mixtures, which are available from plant waxes, are advantageous in the sense of the present invention. Are preferably usable Cuticular waxes of lower and higher plants, algae, lichens, mosses and fungi, such as for example candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, Rice wax, sugar cane wax, fruit waxes, e.g. B. apple wax, flower waxes, leaf waxes of conifers, coffee wax, flax wax, sesame wax, jojoba oil and the like more.

Rice waxes, fruit waxes such as apple wax, orange wax, Lemon wax, grapefruit wax, laurel wax (= Bayberry wax) and the like, advantageous be used. In addition, these natural waxes can also be used without synthetic Waxes can be used alone.

Waxes of diesters of C10-C80 fatty acids can also be used, where as alcohol component propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, Polypropylene glycol, polyglycerol is chosen. Pentaerythritol tri orthotetra-esters of C10 to C80 fatty acids or corresponding fatty acids of the sorbitan triesters as well Sucrose polyester with 3-8 mol degree of substitution can be used.

For example, the ethylene glycol ester of C18-36 fatty acids (Syncrowax ERL-C) or ethylene glycol distearate and glycol distearate are also suitable.

Furthermore, waxes from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 80 C- Atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms, from the group of the esters from aromatic Carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids (e.g. 12-hydroxystearic acid) and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms provided that the wax component or all of the Wax components represent a solid at room temperature.

• - Ester aus gesättigten verzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 60 C-Atomen und gesättigten unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 60 C-Atomen, sofern die Wachskomponente oder die Gesamtheit der Wachskomponenten bei Raumtemperatur einen Festkörper darstellen,

und/oder der

• - Ester aus gesättigten unverzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 60 C-Atomen und gesättigten verzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis 60 C-Atomen, sofern die Wachskomponente oder die Gesamtheit der Wachskomponenten bei Raumtemperatur einen Festkörper darstellen.

It is preferred to choose the wax components from the group of

• Esters of saturated branched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 60 carbon atoms and saturated unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 60 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or all of the wax components are solid at room temperature,

and / or the

• - Esters from saturated unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 60 carbon atoms and saturated branched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 60 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or all of the wax components are solid at room temperature.

The wax components from the group of the C _{16-36 alkyl} stearates, the C _10-40 alkyl stearates, the C _20-40 alkyl isostearates, the C _20-40 dialkyl dimerates, the C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearates, the C _20-40 dialkyl dimerates, the C _20-40 alkyl erucate can be selected, furthermore C _30-50 alkyl beeswax, cetyl palmitate, methyl palmitate, cetearyl behenate, octacosanyl stearate. Silicone waxes such as stearyltrimethylsilane / stearyl alcohol may also be advantageous.

• 1. gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Mono- und/oder Dicarbonsäure mit 10 bis 50 Kohlenstoffatomen, bevorzugt 15-45 Kohlenstoffatomen und
• 2. Glycerin

darstellen. Dabei können Mono-, Di- und Triglyceride vorteilhaft sein. Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are ester waxes, the esters of

• 1. saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched mono- and / or dicarboxylic acid having 10 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably 15-45 carbon atoms and
• 2. Glycerin

represent. Mono-, di- and triglycerides can be advantageous here.

The glycerides listed below are particularly advantageous:

It is particularly preferred to choose the wax components from the group of Triglyceride waxes like C18-38 triglyceride or tribehenin to choose.

It has also been found that ethoxylated waxes such as PEG-8 Beeswax, PEG 6 sorbitan beeswax, PEG-2 hydrogenated castoroil, PEG-12 Carnauba waxes are advantageous because they soften the pen matrix and also a enable better solubilization of water-soluble ingredients.

It has also been found that in addition to the use of one of the previously described Certain wax combinations are beneficial.

The wax components can advantageously be present in a content of 0.5 to 80% by weight on the total preparation, about 1 to 20% by weight are preferred.

It is advantageous to roughly determine the ratio of oil and wax components to one another the range of the weight ratios between 4: 1 to 1: 4, in particular 3: 1 to 1: 3, very particularly preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2.

The amount of water can be up to about 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, the optimum water contents usually being in the range between 30 and 80% by weight, preferably between 50 and 75% by weight. If desired, the minimum water content may fall below 10% by weight. But it is bigger Advantage, emulsion sticks according to the invention containing more than 10 wt .-% water equip especially when water-soluble or water-dispersible active ingredients such as skin moisturizers, UV filters, masking pigments, and water-dispersible Pigments in concentrations known to those skilled in the art are to be used.

Glycerol, chitosan, fucogel, Propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, lactic acid, sodium pyrolidone carboxylic acid, Hyaluronic acid, salts of the specified acids and glycine, urea and salts of Use metals from the first and second main groups.

Glycerol, lactic acid, butylene glycol, urea, hyaluronic acid are particularly suitable.

The content of skin moisturizers is advantageously 3% by weight to 60% by weight, preferably 4 to 50 wt .-%, in particular 5 to 40 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the preparations.

Furthermore, the inventive method is characterized in that for the production of pens according to the invention a variety of emulsifiers or oil components can be used.

• - A und A' gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen,
• - a eine Zahl von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise 2 bis 60, insbesondere 5 bis 40 darstellt,
• - X eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  
• - darstellt,
• - R₁ und R₂ unabhängig voneinander aus der Gruppe H, Methyl gewählt werden daß aber nicht beide Reste gleichzeitig Methyl darstellen,
• - R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-20 Kohlenstoffatomen.

The W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers from the substance group ABA 'used according to the invention is or are advantageously selected according to the invention from the group of substances of the general formula


in which

• A and A 'represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
• a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60, in particular 5 to 40,
• - X is a single bond or the group
  
  
  
• - represents
• R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another from the group H, methyl, but that both radicals do not simultaneously represent methyl,
• - R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals with 1-20 carbon atoms.

The structural formula is not to be interpreted in such a way that all the radicals R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ represented in brackets must be the same in the entire molecule as a result of the index a. Rather, these residues can be found in any of the a fragments


can be freely chosen

The radicals A and A 'are advantageously selected from the group of the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals and hydroxyacyl radicals having 10-30 carbon atoms and also from the group of the hydroxyacyl groups which are linked to one another via ester functions, according to the scheme


where R 'is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and R "is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkylene groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and b can assume numbers from 0 to 200.

Examples of those to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention A / B-A 'type W / O emulsifiers are PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, Decaglyceryl heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, PEG-8-distearate, diglycerol dipolyhydroxystearate.

According to the invention, the W / O emulsifier or emulsifiers can, however, also be selected from the group of fatty alcohols with 8-30 carbon atoms, saturated monoglycerol esters and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or Hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, Diglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxy carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids Chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, Monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, diglycerol ether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, triglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids Chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, Propylene glycol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxy carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, sorbitan esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, sorbitan esters of polyols, in particular of glycerol, Pentaerythrityl esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxy carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, methyl glucose esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxy carboxylic acids of a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol methyl glucose ester saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or Hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, especially 12-18 carbon atoms, cetyl Dimethicone copolyols, alkyl methicone copolyols, alkyl diemethicone ethoxy glucoside.

It can be advantageous according to the invention that the aforementioned types of W / O Emulsifiers are also polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated, or that others polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated products are used, for example polyethoxylated hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated castor oil, ethoxylated Cholesterol, ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as steareth-2, ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated Dicarboxylic acids, ethoxylated waxes such as PEG (-6, -8, -12, -20) beeswax, PEG (-6, -8, -20 Sorbitan beeswax), ethoylated carnauba waxes (PEG-12 carnauba wax).

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl alcoholate, glyceryl monostearate, Glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglyceryl monoisostearate, diglyceryl diisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, Propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol monocaprylate, Propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, Sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, 2-ethylhexylglycerol ether, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, Polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, Glyceryl monocaprylate, glyceryl sorbitan stearate polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 sorbitan perisostearate, Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, PEG-5 cholesteryl ether.

The W / O emulsifier used according to the invention or those used according to the invention W / O emulsifiers, which or which fit into the scheme A-B-A ', lie or lie advantageous in concentrations of 0.1-25% by weight, although it is possible and it is advantageous to keep the content of emulsifiers low, about up to 5% by weight in each case based on the total weight of the composition. It is beneficial that Total concentration of the W / O emulsifiers, including those emulsifiers that are not in schemes A-B-A 'fit no greater than about 25-30% by weight and no less than to choose about 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations.

It can be advantageous according to the invention that the aforementioned types of W / O Emulsifiers are also polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated, or that others polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated products are used, for example polyethoxylated hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated castor oil, ethoxylated Cholesterol, ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as steareth-2.

• - A''' und A'''' gleiche oder verschiedene hydrophobe organische Reste darstellen,
• - a eine Zahl von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise 2 bis 60, darstellt,
• - X eine Einfachbindung oder die Gruppe
  
  
  
• - darstellt,
• - R₁ und R₂ unabhängig voneinander aus der Gruppe H, Methyl gewählt werden daß aber nicht beide Reste gleichzeitig Methyl darstellen,
• - R₃ gewählt wird aus der Gruppe H, sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 1-20 Kohlenstoffatomen.

The stabilizers used according to the invention are advantageously selected according to the invention from the group of substances of the general formula


in which

• A '''andA''''represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals,
• a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60,
• - X is a single bond or the group
  
  
  
• - represents
• R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another from the group H, methyl, but that both radicals do not simultaneously represent methyl,
• - R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals with 1-20 carbon atoms.

The structural formula is not to be interpreted in such a way that all the radicals R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ represented in brackets must be the same in the entire molecule as a result of the index a. Rather, these residues can be found in any of the a fragments


can be freely chosen.

The radicals A '''andA''''can be the same or different and are preferably selected from the group


where R ₈ and R _{9 may be the} same or different and are selected from the group of saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-30 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 1-20 and Y represents a single bond or the group


represents, wherein R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-30 carbon atoms. (old)

The preferred stabilizer is the PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, which has the structure


has. It is offered by Akzo Nobel Chemicals GmbH under the name ELFACOS® ST 9. However, the corresponding PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer can also be used advantageously.

Furthermore, the groups A '' 'and A' '' ', independently of one another, can also be alkyl radicals or Represent acyl residues. Methoxy-PEG-22-dodecyl is also particularly advantageous as a stabilizer Glycol copolymer to use. It is owned by Akzo Nobel Chemicals GmbH offered under the name ELFACOS® E 200.

The stabilizer or stabilizers are advantageously in concentrations of 0.01-25% by weight. before, although it is possible and advantageous, the content of stabilizers to keep low, about up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the Composition.

It is particularly advantageous to choose stabilizers when the invention Preparations have a high content of destabilizing substances, for example Sunscreen filters should contain. If the content of destabilizing substances is low, can to do without the stabilizer.

The pigments that can be used can be of organic and inorganic origin, such as for example organic of the azo type, indigoids, triphenylmethane-like, anthraquinones, and xanthine dyes, which as D&C and FD&C blues, browns, greens, oranges, reds, yellows are known. Inorganic consist of insoluble salts from certified Dyes called lakes or iron oxides.

Colored pigments: Inorganic and organic: Barium lakes, calcium lakes, aluminum lakes, titanium dioxide, mica and iron oxides. As Al salts z. B. Red 3 Aluminum Lake, Red 21 Aluminum Lake, Red 27 Aluminum Lake, Red 28 Aluminum Lake, Red 33 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 5 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 6 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 10 Aluminum Lake, Orange 5 Aluminum Lake, Blue 1 Aluminum Lake and combinations can be used.

As iron oxides or hydrated oxides such. B. cosmetic yellow oxide C22-8073 (Sunchemical) cosmetic oxide MC 33-120 (Sunchemical), cosmetic brown oxide C33-115 (Nordmann & Rassmann), cosmetic russet oxide C33-8075 (Sunchemical) known and if necessary advantageous. Ultramarine blue (Les colorants Wacker) can be used as aluminosilicate.

Pearlescent pigments can also be incorporated into the emulsions according to the invention. These are, for example, from the companies Costenoble (Cloisonne type, Flamenco type, Low Luster type), Merck (Colorona types, Microna type, Timiron type, Colorona, Ronasphere), Les Colornats Wacker (Covapure, Vert oxyde de Chrome), Cadre (Colorona, Sicopearl), BASF (Sicopearl, Sicovit), Rona (Colorona) known. As a particularly advantageous Pearlescent pigments have proven themselves, for example, Timiron Silk Gold and Colrona Red Gold.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative lipsticks, lip contour sticks, covering sticks, eyeliner sticks, eye contour sticks and / or eyebrow sticks. The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe ₂ O ₃ , Fe ₃ O ₄ , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the list below. (The fabrics are sorted by their Color Index Number.)

The dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture as well be mutually coated, with different coating thicknesses different color effects are generally produced.

The list of dyes and pigments mentioned in the invention Emulsion sticks can, of course, not be limiting.

Due to the high proportion of the water phase of emulsions according to the invention, both large amounts of hydrophilic and hydrophobic active ingredients can be incorporated into the formulations. Such active substances which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example, acetylsalicylic acid, azulene, ascorbic acid, vitamin B ₁ , vitamin B _12, vitamin D ₁ , but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, in particular the essential fatty acids (often also called vitamin F), in particular γ-linolenic acid, Oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, e.g. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

In addition, care ingredients can be incorporated that do not affect the restrict fat-soluble active ingredients, but also from the group of water-soluble Active ingredients can be selected, for example vitamins and the like.

Advantageous active ingredients are also antioxidants, especially those that not only the components of the formulation, but also the skin from oxidative stress can protect.

The preparations therefore advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. As Inexpensive, yet optional antioxidants can all be used for cosmetic purposes and / or dermatological applications of suitable or customary antioxidants be used. It is advantageous to add antioxidants as the only class of active ingredient use, for example, when a cosmetic or dermatological application in The focus is on combating the oxidative stress on the skin. But it is also cheap, the W / O emulsion sticks according to the invention containing one or to provide several antioxidants if the preparations are for a different purpose should serve z. B. as deodorants or sunscreens.

The antioxidants are particularly advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid ), Aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioglycerin, thiosorbitol, thioglycolic acid, thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, Butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and Sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulf oximine, buthionine sulfones, pentate, hexa-, heptahionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. B. pmol to µmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. B. ascorbyl palmitates, Mg-ascorbyl phosphates, ascorbylacetates), isoascorbic acid and its derivatives, tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, Ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. Z nO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. B. selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

For the purposes of the present invention, oil-soluble or Oil-dispersible antioxidants are used. However, it has been found that the Invention just the use of water-soluble or water-dispersible antioxidants in Pen formulations opens the gates.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous, their respective concentrations based on the range of 0.001-10 wt .-% based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A, or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives, the or the Antioxidants are beneficial, their respective concentrations out of the range from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

According to the invention, active substances can also be selected very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active substances, in particular from the following group:
Acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, e.g. B. hydrocortisone 17-valerate, vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamins of the B and D series, very cheap vitamin B ₁ , vitamin B _12, vitamin D ₁ , but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often called vitamin F) , in particular γ-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and their derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, e.g. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

It is also advantageous to add the active ingredients from the group of refatting substances choose, for example Purcellinöl®, Eucerit® and Neocerit®.

The pens according to the invention also make an excellent contribution to smoothing the skin, especially if they are provided with one or more substances that the Promote skin smoothing.

An amazing property of the preparations according to the invention is that they are very good Vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological agents in the skin are preferred Active ingredients are antioxidants that protect the skin from oxidative stress can. Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.

The active ingredient (s) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of NO Synthase inhibitors, especially when the preparations according to the invention are used for Treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging as well as for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation to serve on the skin.

The preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.

The active ingredient (s) are also advantageously selected from the group consisting of catechins and bile esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or comprises parts of plants which contain catechins or bile esters of Have catechins, such as the leaves of the Theaceae plant family, especially the species Camellia sinensis (green tea). Their are particularly advantageous typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, Minerals, amino acids, lipids).

Catechins are a group of compounds known as hydrogenated flavones or Anthocyanidins are to be understood and derivatives of "catechins" (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman-3,5,7-triol). Also epicatechin ((2R, 3R) - 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active substance in the sense of the present invention.

Plant extracts containing catechins, in particular, are also advantageous Green tea extracts such as B. Extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec., especially the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis and C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.

Preferred active substances are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) - Epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

Flavon and its derivatives (often also collectively called "flavones") are also advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):

Some of the more important flavones, which can also preferably be used in preparations according to the invention, are listed in the table below:

In nature, flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.

According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula


where Z ₁ to Z ₇ are selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

According to the invention, the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula


where Z ₁ to Z _{6 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

Such structures can preferably be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula


where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

Z ₁ to Z ₅ are advantageously selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure

The flavone glycosides according to the invention from the group which are represented by the following structure are particularly advantageous:


where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

For the purposes of the present invention, the flavone glycoside or flavones is particularly advantageous to choose from the group α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercitrin, α- Glucosylisoquercetin and α-glucosylquercitrin.

According to the invention, α-glucosylrutin is particularly preferred.

Naringin (aurantiin, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside) are also advantageous according to the invention, Hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanon-7-rutinoside, hesperidoside, hesperetin-7- O-rutinoside). Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflyvon-3-rutinoside, quercetin-3-rutinoside, Sophorin, Birutan, Rutabion, Taurutin, Phytomelin, Melin), Troxerutin (3,5-Dihydroxy- 3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), Dihydrorobinetin (3,3 ', 4', 5 ', 7-pentahydroxyflavanone), taxifolin (3,3', 4 ', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), eriodictyol-7-glucoside (3 ', 4', 5,7-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside), flavanomareïn (3 ', 4', 7,8-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside) and isoquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone-3- (β-D-glucopyranoside).

It is also advantageous to use the active ingredient (s) from the group of ubiquinones and To choose plastoquinones.

Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula


and represent the most widespread and thus the best studied bioquinones. Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are called Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 etc. or the number of C atoms as U-5, U-10, U-15, etc. designated. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, e.g. B. in some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. In most mammals, including humans, Q10 predominates.

Coenzyme Q10, which is characterized by the following structural formula, is particularly advantageous:

Plastoquinones have the general structural formula


on. Plastoquinones differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are designated accordingly, e.g. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active substances for the purposes of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:

Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate and creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, Creatine ascorbate and those esterified on the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols Derivatives.

Another advantageous active ingredient is L-carnitine [3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) butyric acid betaine]. Also acyl-carnitine, which is selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula


where R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention. Propionylcarnitine and in particular acetylcarnitine are preferred. Both entantiomers (D- and L-form) can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use any mixture of enantiomers, for example a racemate of D and L form.

Other advantageous active ingredients are pyridoxol, aminoguadin, phytochelatin, isoflavones (Genistein, daidzein, daidzin, glycitin), niacin, tyrosine sulfate, dioic acid, adenosine, pyridoxine, Arginine, vitamin K, biotin, flavorings, α-glucosylrutin, tocopherol, lipoic acid, panthenol, Tocopherol acetate, retinol, biotin, vitamin C, creatine, coenzyme Q10, 3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) butyric acid betaine and sericoside.

The list of active substances or combinations of active substances mentioned in the Preparations according to the invention can of course not be limiting his. The active substances can be used individually or in any combination with one another be used.

Advantageous active ingredients are also antioxidants, especially those that not only the components of the formulation, but also the skin from oxidative stress can protect. Particularly advantageous antioxidants are urocanic acid, carnosine, Carotenoids, carotenes, lipoic acid, α-hydroxy fatty acids, α-hydroxy acids, ubiquinone. The Amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is optionally possible and advantageous to prepare the preparations according to the invention as Use base for pharmaceutical formulations. Mutatis mutandis apply corresponding requirements for the formulation of medical preparations. The Transitions between pure cosmetics and pure pharmaceuticals are fluid. As According to the invention, pharmaceutical active substances are basically all classes of active substances geeginet, with lipophilic active substances being preferred. Examples are: antihistamines, Anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, antifungals, active substances that promote blood circulation, Keratolytics, antihistamines, anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, antifungals that promote blood circulation Active substances, keratolytics, hormones, steroids, vitamins, hormones, steroids, vitamins etc.

Particularly advantageous repellent active ingredients in the sense of the present invention are Active ingredients N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide, 3- (N-n-butyl-N-acetylamino) - ethyl propionate, 1-piperidinecarboxylic acid 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1-methylpropyl ester and Dimethyl phthalate.

It is also possible to use additional substances which modify the consistency of the preparations according to the invention, for example thickeners which can be selected from the group of substances which carry at least two hydrophilic radicals which are linked to one another via a hydrophobic group, that is to say the molecular schemes


consequences.

The residues B with the various indices represent hydrophilic groups, the residues A with the various indices of hydrophobic groups.

Such thickeners are preferably selected from the group of triblock copolymers of the type


where m can represent a number from 10 to 10,000, R ₄ and R _{5 can be the} same or different and are selected from the group represented by the general structure


is represented. R ₆ and R ₇ can be selected independently of one another such that they are H and methyl, but that both radicals cannot simultaneously be methyl. q is a number from 2 to 1000, preferably from 10 to 200.

R ₄ and R ₅ can also represent polyol residues (e.g. glyceryl, polyglyceryl, sorbityl, cellulose residues, etc.).

Especially when the preparations according to the invention are characterized by light or easier washability of human skin, it is advantageous to incorporate water-soluble and / or water-swellable polymers into the preparations, in particular cellulose and / or starch derivatives etherified with alkyl groups. Especially β-glucans, xanthan gum, dextrans, hydroxymethyl cellulose are advantageous, Hydroxyethyl cellulose and / or hydroxypropyl cellulose, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl-glycol copolymers, Poloxamers.

Advantageous water-soluble and / or water-swellable polymers can also be chosen to contain hydrophilic starch esterified with one or more n-octenylsuccinate residues. Such starch derivatives are characterized by a structure
Strength-X _n , where X is the rest


symbolizes.

Starch derivatives to be used advantageously according to the invention do not yet officially have any INCI name (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient) this should be the Wear the designation "Starch Sodium Octenyl Succinate". Products which are particularly advantageous are which under the name Amiogum®, in particular Amiogum®23 from the Company Cerestar US.

It is preferred to have water soluble and / or water swellable content Polymers in the concentration range of 0.01-5.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-1.0% by weight, to choose.

Such water-soluble and / or water-swellable polymers are incorporated preferably by incorporating it in the water phase and with the water phase, particularly preferred after complete dissolution or swelling in the melted Fat phase of the preparations are given.

Those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the Form of a sunscreen. In addition to the Active ingredient combinations according to the invention additionally at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic Pigment.

Preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which Absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances z. B. 0.1% by weight up to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6% by weight is, based on the total weight of the preparations, cosmetic and / or to provide dermatological preparations that cover the skin before the whole Protect the area of ultraviolet radiation. You can also use it as a sunscreen serve.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides.

For the purposes of the present invention, such pigments can advantageously be superficial treated ("coated"), for example an amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or preserved. This surface treatment can be in it exist that the pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophobic layer.

According to the invention, z. B. titanium dioxide pigments coated with octylsilanol. Suitable titanium dioxide particles are available under the trade name T805 from Degussa. Also particularly advantageous are TiO ₂ pigments coated with aluminum stearate, e.g. B. those available under the trade name MT 100 T from TAYCA.

Another advantageous coating of the inorganic pigments consists of Dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), a mixture of fully methylated, linear siloxane polymers, which are terminally blocked with trimethylsiloxy units. Particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention are zinc oxide pigments coated in this way.

It is also advantageous to coat the inorganic pigments with a mixture of Dimethylpolysiloxane, especially dimethylpolysiloxane with an average Chain length from 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units, and silica gel, which also as Simethicone is called. It is particularly advantageous if the inorganic Pigments additionally with aluminum hydroxide or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: Alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2) are coated. Titanium dioxides with Simethicone are particularly advantageous and alumina are coated, wherein the coating can also contain water. On An example of this is that under the trade name Eusolex T2000 from Merck available titanium dioxide.

This is an advantageous organic pigment in the sense of the present invention 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [INCI: bisoctyltriazole], which is sold under the trade name Tinosorb® M by CIBA-Chemicals GmbH is available.

Advantageous UV-A filter substances in the sense of the present invention are Dibenzoylmethane derivatives, especially the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS no. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the Parsol® 1789 brand and by Merck under the Trade name Eusolex® 9020 is sold.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are furthermore so-called broadband filters, d. H. Filter substances that contain both UV-A and UV-B radiation absorb.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example Bisresorcinyltriazine derivatives. This is particularly preferred 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] - phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso Triazin), which is available under the Commercial name Tinosorb® S is available from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention, which are characterized by high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain several UV A and / or broadband filters, especially dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-Butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], benzotriazole derivatives [for example that 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol)], phenylene-1,4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or its salts, the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3- bornylidenmethyl) -benzene and / or its salts and / or that 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, each individually or in any combination with each other.

Also other UV filter substances, which the structural motif


are advantageous UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention, for example the s-triazine derivatives described in European patent application EP 570 838 A1, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula


is reproduced, whereby
R represents a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,
X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group,
R _{1 is} a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of formula


means in which
A represents a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,
R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
n represents a number from 1 to 10,
R _{2 represents} a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, when X represents the NH group, and
a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula


means in which
A represents a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,
R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
n represents a number from 1 to 10,
when X represents an oxygen atom.

A particularly preferred UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula


is reproduced, which is also referred to below as dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: dioctylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V.

A symmetrically substituted s- is also advantageous in the sense of the present invention. Triazine, the 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), synonym: 2,4,6-tris- [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: octyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150 is distributed.

The European Offenlegungsschrift 775 698 also describes bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives which are preferably to be used, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula


is reproduced, wherein R ₁ , R ₂ and A _{1 represent a} wide variety of organic radicals.

Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2- hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) - 1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, the 2nd , 4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) - 2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-ethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2- ethyl hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (1-methyl-pyrrol-2-yl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- tris (trimethylsiloxysilylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2 "-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and the 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2 "-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} - 6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is the 2,2'-methylene bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), which is available under the Trade name Tinosorb® M is available from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is that 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.

• - 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-Benzylidencampher;
• - 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• - 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin;
• - Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)- ester;
• - Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• - Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon
• - 3-(4-(2,2-bis Ethoxycarbonylvinyl)-phenoxy)propenyl)-methoxysiloxan/Dimethylsiloxan- Copolymer welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Parsol® SLX bei Hoffmann La Roche erhältlich ist.
• - sowie an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter.

The UV-B and / or broadband filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
• - 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer which is available, for example, under the trade name Parsol® SLX from Hoffmann La Roche.
• - As well as UV filters bound to polymers.

• - Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst;
• - Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.
• - Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Bisimidazylate (CAS-Nr.: 180898-37-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• - Weitere vorteilhafte UV-A-Filtersubstanzen sind die Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)- 3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Bisimidazylate, welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist.
• - 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol (auch: 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylendimethylene)-bis-(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-ylmethan Sulfonsäure) und dessen Salze (besonders die entprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, insbesondere das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol- 1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird. Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3- bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr.: 90457-82-2) und ist beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Mexoryl SX von der Fa. Chimex erhältlich;

Advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:

• - Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
• - Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene-1,4 -bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name bisimidazylate (CAS no .: 180898-37-7), which, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann &Reimer;
• - Further advantageous UV-A filter substances are phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) - 3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium Salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name bisimidazylate, which is available, for example, from Haarmann under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP & Reimer is available.
• - 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) -benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo- bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also called benzene-1,4- di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS no .: 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex;

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is that 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- (1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl® XL from Chimex.

A further light protection filter substance to be used advantageously according to the invention is that Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the Name Uvinul® N 539 is available.

It can also be of considerable advantage to be polymer-bound or polymeric To use UV filter substances in preparations according to the present invention, in particular those as described in WO-A-92/20690.

Furthermore, it may be advantageous to add further UV-A and / or Incorporation of UV-B filters in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for example certain salicylic acid derivatives such as 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (= octyl salicylate), homomenthyl salicylate.

The list of UV filters mentioned, used in the sense of the present invention of course, should not be limiting.

Furthermore, it may be advantageous to include film formers in the inventive to incorporate cosmetic or dermatological preparations, for example in order to To improve the water resistance of the preparations or to increase the UV protection performance (UV-A and / or UV-B boosting). Both water-soluble and dispersible are suitable as well as fat-soluble film formers, each individually or in combination with one another.

Advantageous water-soluble or dispersible film formers are e.g. B. Polyurethanes (e.g. the Avalure® grades from Goodrich), Dimethicone Copolyol Polyacrylate (Silsoft Surface® from from the Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVP / VA (VA = vinyl acetate) copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder from BASF) etc.

Advantageous fat-soluble film formers are e.g. B., the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)

Copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example PVP, are particularly preferred Hexadecen Copolymer and the PVP Eicosen Copolymer, which among the Trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 available from GAF Chemicals Cooperation are, as well as the Tricontayl PVP and the like.

Emulsions according to the invention can also contain powder substances. As powder materials for example bismuth oxychloride, titanized mica, silicon dioxide (fumed silica), spherical silicon dioxide beads, polymethyl methacrylate beads, micronized Teflon, boron nitride, Acrylate polymers, aluminum silicate, aluminum starch octenyl succinate, bentonite, Calcium silicate, cellulose, chalk, corn starch, glyceryl starch, hectorite, hydrated silica, kaolin, Magnesium hydroxides, magnesium oxide, magnesium silicates, magnesium trisilicate, maltodextrin, Montmorillonite, microcrystalline cellulose, rice starch, silica, talc, mica, titanium dioxide, Zinc laurate, zinc myristate, zinc neodecanoate, zinc rosinate, zinc stearate, polyethylene, Aluminum oxide, attapulgite, calcium carbonate, calcium silicate, dextran, kaolin, nylon, silica silylate, Silk powder, serecite, tin oxide, titanium hydroxide, trimagnesium phosphate, Walnut shell powder or any mixtures can be used.

The preparations according to the invention can advantageously also contain the usual Components of cosmetic pencils are incorporated, e.g. B. the usual auxiliaries and additives such as perfume oils, preservatives, color pigments, light stabilizers, stabilizers.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic preparations are usually not conceivable without the usual auxiliaries and additives. Count among them For example, consistency agents, fillers, perfume, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or Proteins, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances etc.

Examples

All quantities, percentages or parts refer, unless otherwise indicated on the weight, in particular on the total weight of the preparations or respective mixtures.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without restricting it. Example 1 Prophylactic or anti-wrinkle stick with a high proportion of water and moisturizer Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Cetearyl isononanoate 14.70 Ubiquinon (encapsulated cyclodextrin) 0.20 ubiquinone 0.20 biotin 0.20 Masking pigments 1.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 glycerin 10.00 Perfume 0.30 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglyceride 14.70 Ubiquinon (encapsulated cyclodextrin) 0.20 ubiquinone 0.20 biotin 0.20 Masking pigments 1.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 glycerin 10.00 Perfume 0.30 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglyceride 5.70 Ubiquinon (encapsulated cyclodextrin) 0.20 ubiquinone 0.20 biotin 0.20 Masking pigments 10.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 glycerin 10.00 octyldodecanol 5.70 dicaprylyl 5.70 Shea butter 1.00 jojoba oil 1.00 Perfume 0.30 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglyceride 5.70 Ubiquinon (encapsulated cyclodextrin) 0.20 ubiquinone 0.20 biotin 0.20 Masking pigments 10.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 glycerin 10.00 octyldodecanol 5.70 dicaprylyl 5.70 Shea butter 1.00 jojoba oil 1.00 Perfume 0.30 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 2.00 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 2.40 PEG-8 beeswax 1.00 octyldodecanol 10.75 squalene 1.00 Ubiquinon (encapsulated cyclodextrin) 0.20 ubiquinone 0.20 biotin 0.20 Masking pigments 10.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 8.00 glycerin 10.00 jojoba oil 1.00 Perfume 0.30 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglyceride 14.70 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 ascorbic acid 3.00 glycerin 10.00 Perfume 0.30 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.80 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 2.70 PEG-8 beeswax 1.10 octyldodecanol 5.90 squalane 1.00 castor oil 3.00 jojoba oil 1.00 avocado oil 1.50 macadamia 1.50 Hydrogenated polydecene 4.24 tocopherol 1.10 cetyl palmitate 1.10 Ubiquinon (encapsulated cyclodextrin) 0.20 lipoic acid 0.20 biotin 0.20 Masking pigments 11,50 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 1.00 ethylhexyl triazone 1.00 glycerin 7.50 Perfume 0.30 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.80 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 2.70 PEG-8 beeswax 1.10 octyldodecanol 5.90 squalane 1.00 castor oil 3.00 jojoba oil 1.00 avocado oil 1.50 macadamia 1.50 Hydrogenated polydecene 4.24 tocopherol 1.10 cetyl palmitate 1.10 Ubiquinon (encapsulated cyclodextrin) 0.20 carnitine 0.20 biotin 0.20 Masking pigments 11,50 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 1.00 ethylhexyl triazone 1.00 glycerin 7.50 Perfume 0.30 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglyceride 14.70 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 tocopherol 3.00 glycerin 10.00 Perfume 0.30 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglyceride 14.70 C _18-36 acid triglyceride 1.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 α-glucosylrutin, creatine (1: 1) 0.50 Glycerin, Fucogel (9: 1) 10.00 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Sorbitansiostearat 1.60 Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglyceride 14.70 C _18-36 acid triglyceride 1.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 Glycerin, glycine (9: 1) 10.00 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.80 PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate 2.70 PEG-8 beeswax 1.10 octyldodecanol 5.90 squalane 1.00 castor oil 3.00 jojoba oil 1.00 avocado oil 1.50 macadamia 1.50 Hydrogenated polydecene 4.24 tocopherol 1.10 cetyl palmitate 1.10 Ubiquinon (encapsulated cyclodextrin) 0.20 methyl palmitate 1.00 biotin 0.20 Masking pigments 11,50 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 1.00 ethylhexyl triazone 1.00 Glycerin, lactic acid (9: 1) 7.50 Perfume 0.30 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate 1.60 Cetearyl isononanoate 14.70 Ubiquinon (encapsulated cyclodextrin) 0.20 ubiquinone 0.20 tocopherol 0.20 Masking pigments 1.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 Glycerin, butylene glycol (9: 1) 10.00 Perfume 0.30 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 propylene glycol isostearate 1.60 Cetearyl isononanoate 14.70 Ubiquinon (encapsulated cyclodextrin) 0.20 ubiquinone 0.20 tocopherol 0.20 Masking pigments 1.50 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 Glycerin, NaCl 10.00 Perfume 0.30 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 2.00 Glycerinisostearat 2.40 PEG-8 beeswax 1.00 octyldodecanol 10.75 squalene 1.00 Ubiquinon (encapsulated cyclodextrin) 0.20 ubiquinone 0.20 biotin 0.20 Masking pigments 10.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 8.00 glycerin 10.00 jojoba oil 1.00 Perfume 0.30 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.80 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 2.70 PEG-8 beeswax 1.10 octyldodecanol 5.90 squalane 1.00 castor oil 3.00 jojoba oil 1.00 avocado oil 1.50 macadamia 1.50 Hydrogenated polydecene 4.24 tocopherol 1.10 cetyl palmitate 1.10 Ubiquinon (encapsulated cyclodextrin) 0.20 carnitine 0.20 biotin 0.20 Masking pigments 11,50 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00 4-methylbenzylidenes camphor 1.00 Glycerin, sodium pyrolidonecarboxylic acid salt (9: 1) 7.50 Perfume 0.30 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.80 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 2.70 PEG-8 beeswax 1.10 octyldodecanol 5.90 squalane 1.00 castor oil 3.00 jojoba oil 1.00 avocado oil 1.50 macadamia 1.50 Hydrogenated polydecene 4.24 tocopherol 1.10 cetyl palmitate 1.10 Ubiquinon (encapsulated cyclodextrin) 0.20 biotin 0.20 Masking pigments 11,50 octocrylene 1.00 4-methylbenzylidenes camphor 1.00 Glycerin, hyaluronic acid salt (9: 1) 7.50 Perfume 0.30 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglyceride 14.70 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 tocopherol 3.00 retinol 0.20 Phenylene-1,4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt 3.00 dioctyl 3.00 Glycerin, polyethylene glycol (9: 1) 10.00 Perfume 0.30 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 1.60 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.60 Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglyceride 14.70 C _18-36 acid triglyceride 1.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 9.00 α-glucosylrutin, creatine (1: 1) 0.50 ethylhexyl triazone 2.00 Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid salt 1.00 Glycerin, Fucogel (9: 1) 10.00 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00 Wt .-% PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer 2.00 Glycerinisostearat 2.40 PEG-8 beeswax 1.00 Ethylhexyl salicylate 2:00 octyldodecanol 10.75 squalene 1.00 Ubiquinon (encapsulated cyclodextrin) 0.20 ubiquinone 0.20 biotin 0.20 Masking pigments 10.00 C _20-40 alkyl stearate 8.00 Glycerin, urea (9: 1) 10.00 jojoba oil 1.00 Perfume 0.30 preservation 0.58 water ad 100.00

Claims (12)

1. Containing solid W / O emulsions at room temperature a) a fat phase, which 1. at least one oil component 2. comprises at least one wax component, b) a water phase, which 1. 30 to 85 wt .-% water as well 2. 5 to 50 wt .-% of a skin moisturizing agent selected from the group glycerol, chitosan, Fucogel, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, glycine, lactic acid, sodium pyrolidonecarboxylic acid, hyaluronic acid, salts of the specified acids and, urea and salts of metals the first and second main groups, c) at least one anti-wrinkle substance, d) a W / O emulsifier or a mixture of several W / O emulsifiers selected from the group of surface-active substances of the general structure AB-A ', where A and A' represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals and B is a hydrophilic Group means. 2. W / O emulsions according to claim 1, characterized in that the W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers are selected from the group of substances of the general formula


in which A and A 'represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals, a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60, in particular 5 to 40, - X is a single bond or the group


- represents R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another such as H, methyl, but not both radicals simultaneously represent methyl, R _{3 is} selected from group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-20 carbon atoms, or that the W / O emulsifier (s) are selected from the group of fatty alcohols with 8-30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C. -Atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length ge of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, sorbitan esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, sorbitan esters of polyols, in particular glycerol, pen Taerythrityl esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, methylglucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 -24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms, polyglycerol methylglucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms, the glycery fatty acid citrates, cetyl dimethicone copolyols , the alkyl methicon copolyols, the alkyl dimethicone ethoxy glucoside, or that the aforementioned types of W / O emulsifiers are additionally polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated in such a way that they are ethoxylated and / or propopoxylated W / O emulsifiers. 3. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers are chosen so that the radicals A and A 'are advantageously chosen from the group of branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals and hydroxyacyl radicals having 10-30 carbon atoms and also from the group of the hydroxyacyl groups which are linked to one another via ester functions, according to the scheme.


where R 'is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and R "is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkylene groups with 1 to 20 carbon atoms and b can assume numbers from 0 to 200. 4. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the W / O emulsifier (s) are selected from the group PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, decaglyceryl heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, PEG-8 distearate, Diglycerin dipolyhydroxystearate, glycerin isostearate, sorbitan isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate, Steareth-2. 5. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the stabilizer or stabilizers is selected from the group of substances of the general formula


in which A '''andA''''represent the same or different hydrophobic organic radicals, a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60, - X is a single bond or the group


- represents R ₁ and R _{2 are selected} independently of one another from the group H, methyl, but that both radicals do not simultaneously represent methyl, R _{3 is} selected from group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-20 carbon atoms, - wherein the radicals A '''andA''''can be the same or different and can be selected from the group


- wherein R ₈ and R _{9 may be the} same or different and are selected from the group of saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-30 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 1-20 and Y is a single bond or the group


represents, - wherein R _{3 is} selected from the group H, and the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals with 1-30 carbon atoms. In addition, the groups A ″ ″ and A ″ ″ can independently represent alkyl radicals or acyl radicals. 6. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the stabilizer is the PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and / or the PEG- 22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and / or the methoxy PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer be used. 7. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the oil component or all of the oil components is selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length from 1 to 44 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols Chain length from 1 to 30 carbon atoms provided the oil component or all of the Oil components are a liquid at room temperature. 8. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the oil component or all of the oil components is selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons, cyclic or linear silicone oils, the branched and unbranched salicylates and benzoates, the Dialkyl ethers, the dialkyl carbonates, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the synthetic or natural triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms the triglycerol esters preferably from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils such as olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, Palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil can be selected. 9. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax component or the entirety of the wax components is selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 80 C atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 C atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length from 1 to 80 carbon atoms if the wax component or all of the wax components are solid at room temperature, - natural waxes, - the diester of polyols and C10-C80 fatty acids, - the ethoxylated waxes, - the triglyceride waxes, - The C16-C60 fatty acids (or their salts) and / or C16-C80 fatty alcohols. 10. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax component or the entirety of the wax components is selected from the group the ester of saturated branched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated branched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or all of the wax components are solid at room temperature, - natural waxes, - the diester of polyols and C10-C80 fatty acids, - the ethoxylated waxes, - the triglyceride waxes, - The C16-C60 fatty acids (or their salts) and / or C16-C80 fatty alcohols. 11. W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding claims, by a additional content of one or more water-soluble and / or with water characterized swellable polymers, in particular cellulose etherified with alkyl groups and / or starch derivatives, preferably β-glucans, xanthan gum, dextrans, Hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and / or hydroxypropyl cellulose, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl Glycol copolymers, poloxamers, with one or more n-octenyl succinate residues esterified hydrophilic starch. 12. Use of W / O emulsions according to at least one of the preceding Claims as cosmetic preparations for the treatment of wrinkled skin and / or aging skin.