CZ735585A3 - Process for producing footwear and apparatus for making the same - Google Patents

Abstract

In a method for producing footwear, wherein the shaft and the shell sole of the footwear are glued together, the leather upper part of the footwear is first cut to size without the formation of a lasting fold, it is prepared and then roughened along a lower border thereof. After shaping of the tip, so as to conform to the last, the preformed shaft is stretched to measure, and a rear cap is simultaneously molded in. The shell sole, which is likewise glued, is placed on a glued border and pressed against at least the tip and heel and is also possibly sewn with a seam, after which a cover sole is placed and the shoe or footwear is completed.

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a shoe in which the upper is first cut, prepared, sewn into an upper and provided with a front and a rear lining without a tensioning tab, then roughening the lower edge of the upper and bowl and finally, the cup-shaped sole is put on and pressed against the invention at least on the toe and heel. The method further relates to a method.

Manufacture of footwear with bowl soles

Z involves approximately seventeen operations today. First, the tensioning insole is sewn, then the rear toe is formed, the hoof is assigned and the toe is stretched. After activation, the sides and finally the heel are stretched.

In separate operations, the bottom and sides are roughened and then the bottom and sides are coated with glue. Now the adhesive has to be activated and the cup sole is put on. Then the surfaces to be bonded are pressed together and dried. Finally, the footwear is removed with the hoof cuts, the footwear is cleaned, and the covering insole is inserted.

In the known process just described from

with a large number of work, the share of wages in production costs is high. Another disadvantage in conventional shoe production is the relatively high proportion / leather for the stretch tab, for which approximately 30 outer leather is consumed. Since the need for leather has increased not only in the footwear industry, but also in the construction of automobiles and the use of the best leather is increasingly used in the production of cushion furniture, but raw leather production has not increased to the same extent. .

In the past, there have been fewer attempts to make shoes without a tab. In DE-OS 23 60 249, for example, it relates to a method in which the sole is sprayed directly onto the outer skin. To this end, the upper is first formed before the sole is sprayed. The upper is then placed on the molding hoof acting as the upper part of the spray mold, fastened with clips, and inserted tightly into the insole formed as the lower part of the spray mold. To anchor the upper in the sole, an upper edge corresponding to the tensioning edge is required so that the desired skin savings are not achieved. In addition, the production of the sole requires so-called sprayed outsole, which is not normally divided and therefore cannot be used to stretch the upper to measure. According to this known process, heel-free shoes, so-called kickers, can in any case be produced.

DE-AS 23 42 304 describes a further attempt to manufacture footwear without insoles. Here, the tip region is formed by suitable cutting of the skin and subsequent sewing. This gives the toe a little apparent shape. In addition, the uppers must be fastened in the tip and heel area of the hoof by means of thorns. However, these spines interfere with the removal of footwear from the hoof, as they may damage at least the lining, but sometimes also the skin. In addition, it limits the special shaping of the modeler's tip in his artistic freedom.

According to DE-OS 26 18 183, the upper leather is to be glued to the edge of the upper pulled up and possibly sewn. However, there is no discussion of how a substantially flat leather of a shoe or shoe could be fastened to a sole, especially in the area of the toe. Thus, this process is best suited for making thong sandals.

DE-OS 23 06 129 shows a method and apparatus for preforming a complete shoe upper. At the same time, the rear toe is shaped on a two-part adjustable die, but the front toe is only pre-shaped so that

- 5 connects to the skin and is flooded for the following stretch action.

of

The invention is based on the object of providing a method for producing a shoe of the above-mentioned type which operates without a tension tab and without tensioning operations, but the remaining working processes are as machine and partly even automatic as possible, and the finished shoe is both appearance and in terms of durability does not differ from existing shoes.

According to the invention, this is achieved by first stitching the toe only after the stitching of the upper, then placing the upper on a two-piece hoof tensioning device, stabilizing the press pieces and tensioning axially while simultaneously shaping the rear toe and gluing upper and sole inserts.

This is achieved with the advantage that approximately 30% of the upper skin and z material can be saved

This means that the number of operations is greatly reduced, so that, in addition to the proportion of material, the wage rate in the production costs is drastically reduced.

In order to increase the durability of the connection between the sole and the upper, according to a preferred embodiment

6 of the invention use an additional seam.

This seam can simultaneously be formed as a decorative seam.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, after gluing the upper and the bowl sole, the footwear can be steamed at positive pressure, then put on the hoof, dried and removed from the hoof again. Steaming shoes is recommended from

in particular leather shoes which, by this final operation, receive their final shape corresponding to the last. Since hooves are needed only in this last processing step, their number can be considerably z

lowered to give a further rationalization effect.

In addition, it is possible to glue the covering insole with the cup sole.

As already mentioned, the production process according to the invention is largely machine or automatic. Accordingly, a number of devices are used to carry out the invention, which are used in the individual production steps and which guarantee the cost-effective and perfect production of footwear.

The most important and at the same time the most economical device is the machine, which tailor-made the upper, tailored exactly according to the hoof in the peak area. This device comprises two sub-molds which correspond in their contours

- 7 hooves and on which the upper pre-shaped toe can be attached. The pressing tip presses the preformed tip at the tip against the front sub-mold, thereby holding the skin against sliding, but leaving the edge of the upper provided with glue free. By means of the heel thrust piece, the heel region of the upper is pressed, simultaneously extruding and forming the rear toe. Here, too, the edge of the upper provided with glue remains free. Finally, the other press-fit parts serve to compress the adhesive surfaces after placing the dish-prepared soles on the tensioned and steady upper in order to achieve a perfect glued connection. The molds or press-fit parts can be heated.

According to a further embodiment of the invention, the sub-molds by which the upper is tensioned and the press-fit parts by which the upper is fixed or the glued surfaces are compressed are driven prumatically. Manually performed tasks consist only of putting on the upper, putting on the bowl-outsole and removing the glued shoes.

The method according to the invention as well as the devices necessary for carrying it out will be explained with reference to the drawing.

Giant. 1 shows an upper as it is cut in a conventional method of making shoes.

in

Giant. 2 shows an upper as it is cut for the method according to the invention.

v v

Giant. 3 shows the roughening or crinkling of the edge.

in

Giant. 4 shows an embodiment

Your peaks.

in

Giant. 5 shows the tailoring of the upper and the deployment of the cup-shaped sole, including the apparatus used therein.

in

Giant. 6 shows the prepared and sewn shoes including the sewing machine used therein.

FIG. 1 shows a prepared and grafted upper 1 with a tension tab 2 at its lower edge. The area of the tension tab 2 is approximately 30% of the entire upper material.

in

Giant. 2 shows an upper 3 without a tension tab as used in the production method of the invention.

v v

Giant. 3 shows the roughening of the upper 3 in the region of the outer edge 4 by means of

The edge 4 can be roughened to any width, which is in any case adapted to the depth of insertion of the preformed cup sole.

in

Giant. 4 shows an upper 3 with a roughened edge 4 and a preformed tip 5.

In order to shape the toe, the stitched upper must be subjected to extremely severe tensile deformation, especially if it consists of leather, so that it, including any reinforcing sticks, is given a shape exactly according to the last and then retained this shape even after the bag has been removed. This occurs with the shoe being stretched so far, especially during the tensioning process by pulling on the tension tab. Since in the method according to the invention the tensioning edge and thus also the tensioning process are eliminated, the upper must first be shaped almost exactly to the hoof in its tip region before it joins the sole. Otherwise it would not be possible to prevent deformation and the formation of creases.

Pre-shaping of the tip occurs in a separate tip-shaping machine having, for example, an upper mold, a lower mold and a medium mold, the contours of which correspond to the contour of the last. These molds are lined with abrasion-resistant material, which has a thickness of approx

a certain flexibility and thus allows the different skin thicknesses to be equalized.

in

Giant. 5 shows the most important process step as well as (in / schematic representation) the apparatus used for this. There is seen the front and rear molds 21 and 22, respectively, on which the preformed upper 3 is fitted. By means of the tip-shaped molding part 23, the upper 3 is stabilized in the tip region on the front mold 21. in particular pneumatically, they move apart while the upper is stretched to its final length. The contours of the two molds 21, 22 correspond to those of the finished footwear.

By means of the heel press fitting 24, the upper 3 is pressed in the heel region and stabilized. At the same time, the rear toe is retracted and compressed. In order for the rear toe cap to be activated, the rear subform 22 or the press fit 24 is capable of heating.

in

The tip and heel press parts 23, 24 are formed such that the edge 4 provided with glue remains free on the upper 3. On this edge 4, a ready-made cup-shaped seam 6 is placed. Further press-fit parts 25, 26 are now also mechanically or pneumatically moved forward and press the tip region 8 or heel region 9 of the cup-shaped sole 6 onto the sub-mold 21, 22. between the upper 3 and the sole 6.

After shifting the press-fit parts 23 to 26 and relieving tension of the sub-molds 21, 22, the footwear can be removed from the machine.

in

Giant. 6 shows a shoe 10 consisting of a cup sole 6 and an upper 3. To further secure the adhesive connection between the cup sole 6 and the upper 3, the seam 28 is sewn by the sewing machine 27.

After gluing and eventually stitching, the shoes are steamed in a pressure chamber (not shown), whereby the skin becomes flexible and malleable in a short time.

A hoof is now put into the steamed shoes for the first time. The footwear mounted on the hoof is dried with a drying device, the leather getting its final shape. This shape holds even after removing the hoof.

The last work consists of finishing and inserting or gluing the covering insole.

Claims (5)

PATENT CLAIMS A method of making a footwear by first cutting the upper skin without a tension tab, stitching it into an upper and providing a front and a rear toe cap, then roughening the lower edge of the upper and the rim of the cup-shaped sole, glued parts of the upper and sole together Finally, a cup-shaped outsole is fitted and pressed at least on the toe and toe, characterized in that after the upper (3) is sewn, only the tip (5) is first shaped exactly to the hoof, then the upper (3) is placed on the two-piece tensioner , is stabilized by the press-fit parts (23, 24) and stretched to measure while simultaneously shaping the rear toe cap and that after covering the upper (3) and the cup-shaped sole (6) a covering insole is inserted. 2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the upper (3) and the cup-shaped sole (6) are additionally sewn together. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that after gluing the upper (3) and the cup-shaped sole (6), the shoes are steamed under pressure, then put on the hoof, dried and removed from the hoof again. Method according to claim 1, 2 or 3, characterized in that the covering insole is glued to the dish-shaped sole (6). Apparatus for tensioning the upper (3) tailored for carrying out the method according to Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that two sub-molds (21, 22) are provided which correspond in their contours to the last and on which the upper (3) is arranged. ) formed in the tip (5) pluggable to provide a tip pressing member (23) that retains the upper (3) in the region of the tip (5) but leaves a loose roughened and glue-provided edge (4) of the upper (0), that there is provided a heel pressure molding part (24), kj-fc, which compresses the rear toe, but leaves a free edge (4) of the upper (3) that the molds (21, 22) and their respective press-fit parts (23, 24) are mutually adjustable in the longitudinal direction of the sole, further press-fit parts (25, 26) are provided to press the rim (7) of the cup-shaped sole, and that the sub-molds (21, 22). ) or the press fit parts (23, 24) are heatable, 6. Apparatus according to claim 1, characterized in that the molds (21, 22) and the molded parts (23 to 26) are pneumatically operated. 5, is referred to as a thrust actuator. Represented by: JUDr. Otakar SVOKC? 678 / Šv o C3 rn < - < σ o </> ιΟ AND C f kCJkk-