Detailed Description
To facilitate an understanding of the present disclosure, the present disclosure will be described more fully below. This disclosure may, however, be embodied in many different forms and is not limited to the embodiments described herein. Rather, these embodiments are provided so that this disclosure will be thorough and complete.
The term as used herein:
"by. Preparation method synonymous with" comprising ". The terms "comprising," "including," "having," "containing," or any other variation thereof, as used herein, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion. For example, a composition, step, method, article, or apparatus that comprises a list of elements is not necessarily limited to only those elements but may include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to such composition, step, method, article, or apparatus.
The term "consisting of" excludes any unspecified element, step or component. If used in a claim, such phrase will cause the claim to be closed, such that it does not include materials other than those described, except for conventional impurities associated therewith. When the phrase "consisting of" appears in a clause of the claim body rather than immediately following the subject, it is limited to only the elements described in that clause, and other elements are not excluded from the claim as a whole.
When an equivalent, concentration, or other value or parameter is expressed as a range, preferred range, or a range bounded by a list of upper preferable values and lower preferable values, this is to be understood as specifically disclosing all ranges formed from any pair of any upper range limit or preferred value and any lower range limit or preferred value, regardless of whether ranges are separately disclosed. For example, when a range of "1-5" is disclosed, the described range should be interpreted to include the ranges of "1-4", "1-3", "1-2 and 4-5", "1-3 and 5", and the like. When a numerical range is described herein, unless otherwise indicated, the range is intended to include its endpoints and all integers and fractions within the range.
In these examples, the parts and percentages are by mass unless otherwise indicated.
"Parts by mass" means a basic unit of measurement showing the mass ratio of a plurality of components, and 1 part may be any unit mass, for example, 1g, 2.689g, or the like. If we say that the mass part of the A component is a part and the mass part of the B component is B part, the ratio a: B of the mass of the A component to the mass of the B component is expressed. Or the mass of the A component is aK, the mass of the B component is bK (K is any number and represents a multiple factor). It is not misunderstood that the sum of the parts by mass of all the components is not limited to 100 parts, unlike the parts by mass.
"And/or" is used to indicate that one or both of the illustrated cases may occur, e.g., a and/or B include (a and B) and (a or B).
In a first aspect, a soothing and repairing composition for oil sensitive skin is provided, which comprises, by weight, 1-5 parts of hydrolyzed yeast protein, 1-3 parts of horse chestnut extract, 0.5-2 parts of marine oligosaccharides, 1-3 parts of broom She Ao Africa tea extract and 1-3 parts of medicinal layer porus extract.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises, by weight, 2-3 parts of hydrolyzed yeast protein, 1.5-2 parts of horse chestnut extract, 1-1.5 parts of marine oligosaccharides, 1.5-2 parts of broom She Ao African tea extract, 1-3 parts of medicinal layer porus extract.
As in the various embodiments, the hydrolyzed yeast protein may be, but is not limited to, 1 part, 1.5 parts, 2 parts, 2.5 parts, 3 parts, 3.5 parts, 4 parts, 4.5 parts, 5 parts, preferably 2-3 parts;
As in the various embodiments, the horse chestnut extract may be, but is not limited to, 1 part, 1.2 parts, 1.4 parts, 1.6 parts, 1.8 parts, 2 parts, 2.2 parts, 2.4 parts, 2.6 parts, 2.8 parts, 3 parts, preferably 1.5-2 parts;
As in the various embodiments, the marine oligosaccharides may be, but are not limited to, 0.5 parts, 0.7 parts, 0.9 parts, 1.1 parts, 1.3 parts, 1.5 parts, 1.7 parts, 1.9 parts, 2 parts, preferably 1.5-2 parts;
As in the various embodiments, the broom She Ao african tea extract may be, but is not limited to, 1 part, 1.3 parts, 1.5 parts, 1.7 parts, 1.9 parts, 2.1 parts, 2.3 parts, 2.5 parts, 2.7 parts, 3 parts, preferably 1.5-2 parts;
as in the various embodiments, the pharmaceutical layer porus extract may be, but is not limited to, 1 part, 1.2 parts, 1.4 parts, 1.6 parts, 1.8 parts, 2 parts, 2.2 parts, 2.4 parts, 2.6 parts, 2.8 parts, 3 parts by weight.
According to the invention, hydrolyzed yeast protein, horse chestnut extract, marine oligosaccharide, broom She Ao Africa tea extract and medicinal layer porus extract are compounded to form a relief and repair composition, and in the first aspect, the relief and repair composition can increase cutinase and lipase, reduce hyaluronidase to regulate skin barrier function, ensure formation and renewal of a cuticle, thereby preventing water loss and invasion of external harmful substances, and simultaneously maintain water-oil balance of skin, and the absorption of the nutrients is related to the discharge of wastes. In a second aspect, the soothing and repairing composition of the present invention also promotes antioxidant enzymes, such as superoxide dismutase (SOD) and the like, inhibits Matrix Metalloproteinases (MMPs), thereby reducing skin inflammatory response, restoring skin immunoregulatory function, regulating intercellular signaling and activating immune cells, promoting skin injury repair process. In a word, the composition of the invention not only ensures the physiological function of the skin, but also helps to relieve and repair damaged tissues, reduce excessive grease secreted by oily skin and maintain skin health by maintaining the stable state of a skin enzyme network.
In particular, the hydrolyzed yeast protein refers to a yeast protein treated by a hydrolysis process, and generally refers to a mixture of small molecule peptides and amino acids. The hydrolyzed yeast protein rich in amino acids supports and regulates sebum secretion, helps to maintain the epidermal enzyme network of oiliness sensitive skin, and prevents pore blockage and inflammation. It can enhance skin barrier function, relieve inflammation and itching caused by external irritation, promote activity of certain enzymes, promote cutin health, and reduce the occurrence of acne and blackhead. The antioxidant property can also relieve oxidation pressure, improve oily sensitive skin state and maintain health.
The horse chestnut extract is rich in saponins, has the effects of controlling oil and removing grease, and is particularly beneficial to oily sensitive skin. It can relieve skin erythema, edema and allergy by anti-inflammatory action, promote metabolism, and enhance skin elasticity. In addition, the horse chestnut extract can inhibit the enzyme activity damaging the vascular structure, improve microcirculation, relieve red blood streak and eye edema, and provide comprehensive skin care effect for oily sensitive muscles.
The marine oligosaccharide forms a protective film through the abundant hydroxyl structure, effectively locks moisture and provides lasting moisture retention. It has good antioxidant effect, and can neutralize free radical, slow skin aging, and enhance skin immunity. In addition, the marine oligosaccharides can relax skin, reduce problem reactions, promote skin cell regeneration, improve elasticity and reduce fine wrinkles. By inhibiting melanin generation, the marine oligosaccharide also has excellent whitening effect, and ensures the comprehensive health of oily sensitive skin in the aspects of moisture preservation, whitening and repair.
The broom She Ao Africa tea extract has remarkable antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and moisturizing effects, and is suitable for oily sensitive skin. The abundant antioxidants can neutralize free radicals, repair damaged skin and slow down aging process. Meanwhile, the natural anti-inflammatory property effectively relieves the skin inflammation caused by oxidation and ultraviolet rays and relieves the sensitive symptoms. In addition, the extract can enhance skin moisturizing ability, promote uniform moisture distribution, and improve softness and elasticity of skin.
The medicinal Phellinus extract can regulate epidermic enzyme network by various mechanisms, and its triterpene bioactive components can promote the expression and activity of antioxidant enzyme and key metabolic enzyme, and promote skin metabolism. Meanwhile, the extract can regulate the enzyme activity related to water-oil balance, has good oil control capability, enhances the restoration capability of skin barrier and keeps water-fat balance. In addition, its anti-inflammatory effect helps to inhibit the activity of inflammation-related enzymes, thereby maintaining skin health and vitality.
In some embodiments, the broom She Ao Africa tea extract is prepared by adding broom She Ao Africa tea to a eutectic solvent, extracting at 50-80deg.C for 2-4 hr, and solid-liquid separating to obtain a liquid which is broom She Ao Africa tea extract, wherein the hydrogen bond acceptor of the eutectic solvent is glycerol glucoside, and the hydrogen bond donor is vitrein or allantoin.
According to the preparation method, the glyceroglycosides are used as hydrogen bond acceptors, the vitriol or the allantoin is used as hydrogen bond donors to form a eutectic solvent, the obtained eutectic solvent is used for extracting broom leaf Australian tea, on one hand, the content of active ingredients in broom She Ao African tea extract can be effectively improved, so that the repairing, moisturizing, oil controlling and relieving effects of the relieving and repairing composition are improved, on the other hand, the hydrogen bond donors can improve the biocompatibility of the relieving and repairing composition, the anti-aging effect of the relieving and repairing composition is improved, the hydrogen bond acceptors can improve the antioxidant and moisturizing effects of the relieving and repairing composition, and the water-oil balance of skin is maintained.
As in the various embodiments, the temperature of the extraction may be, but is not limited to, 50 ℃, 52 ℃, 54 ℃, 56 ℃, 58 ℃, 60 ℃, 62 ℃, 64 ℃, 66 ℃, 68 ℃, 70 ℃, 72 ℃, 74 ℃, 76 ℃, 78 ℃, 80 ℃;
as in the various embodiments, the time of extraction may be, but is not limited to, 2h, 2.5h, 3h, 3.5h, 4h.
In some embodiments, the mass ratio of hydrogen bond donor to hydrogen bond acceptor is 1:1-1:2, such as but not limited to 1:1, 1:1.2, 1:1.4, 1:1.6, 1:1.8, 1:2.
In some embodiments, the broom She Ao tea leaf and eutectic solvent are in a mass ratio of 1:5-10, such as, but not limited to, 1:5, 1:6, 1:7, 1:8, 1:9, 1:10.
The research of the disclosure finds that the content of active ingredients of the broom She Ao Africa tea extract can be further improved within the range of the parameters, and the repairing, moisturizing, oil controlling and soothing effects of the soothing and repairing composition are improved.
Specifically, in order to further improve the content of effective active ingredients of the broom She Ao africa tea extract and the extraction efficiency, the average particle size of the broom She Ao africa tea is smaller than 80 mesh.
Specifically, the preparation method of broom She Ao Africa tea powder with average particle diameter smaller than 80 mesh comprises cleaning broom She Ao Africa tea with water, freeze drying at-80deg.C for 1 hr, pulverizing, and sieving with 80 mesh sieve.
Specifically, the solid-liquid separation method is not limited as long as the solid and the liquid can be separated, such as centrifugation, filtration, suction filtration, and the like, and the suction filtration is preferable as the solid-liquid separation method in the present invention.
Specifically, the method for preparing the eutectic solvent is not particularly limited, and the eutectic solvent can be prepared by a known method in the art, for example, a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor are stirred at a temperature of 50-80 ℃ to obtain the eutectic solvent, the stirring time is not particularly limited, the melting point of the eutectic solvent is measured to be lower than that of the hydrogen bond donor or the hydrogen bond acceptor, and the stirring time can be 1-3 hours.
In the present invention, hydrolyzed yeast protein, horse chestnut extract, marine oligosaccharides and pharmaceutical laminin extract may be prepared according to methods well known in the art or may be commercially available.
In a second aspect, there is provided the use of the soothing composition in the preparation of a cosmetic.
In a third aspect, there is provided a cosmetic product comprising said soothing composition in an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight of the cosmetic product, such as but not limited to 0.5%、0.7%、1%、1.2%、1.5%、1.7%、2%、2.3%、2.5%、2.8%、3%、3.2%、3.5%、3.7%、4%、4.3%、4.5%、4.8%、5%、6%、7%、8%、9%、10%.
In addition to the above-mentioned extracts, the compositions used according to the invention generally comprise a physiologically acceptable and preferably cosmetically acceptable medium, meaning a medium suitable for contact with human skin without toxicity, incompatibility, instability or allergic response, in particular without causing discomfort (redness, tightness, stinging). Advantageously, the cosmetic product may be in the form of a powder, emulsion, microemulsion, nanoemulsion, suspension, solution, lotion, cream, aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel, foam, solution or dispersion for aerosols or lipid vesicle dispersions. In the case of an emulsion, it may be a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion.
In some embodiments, the cosmetic is at least one of a lotion, an emulsion, a cream, a mask, an essence, a spray.
In some embodiments, the cosmetic is a cream and the cream comprises, by mass, 0.5-10% of a soothing composition, 0.05-0.3% of a thickener, 0.5-1% of a humectant, 0.5-5% of an emulsifier, 0.5-3% of a preservative, 0.01-0.3% of a pH adjustor, the balance being water.
As in the various embodiments, the mass percent of the soothing composition may be, but is not limited to 0.5%、0.7%、1%、1.2%、1.5%、1.7%、2%、2.3%、2.5%、2.8%、3%、3.2%、3.5%、3.7%、4%、4.3%、4.5%、4.8%、5%、6%、7%、8%、9%、10%;
As in the various embodiments, the thickener may be, but is not limited to, 0.05%, 0.07%, 0.1%, 0.12%, 0.15%, 0.2%, 0.23%, 0.25%, 0.28%, 0.3%;
as in the various embodiments, the humectant may be, but is not limited to, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1% by mass;
As in the various embodiments, the emulsifier may be, but is not limited to, 0.5%, 1%, 1.5%, 2%, 2.5%, 3%, 3.5%, 4%, 4.5%, 5% by mass;
As in the various embodiments, the preservative may be, but is not limited to, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.8%, 1%, 1.5%, 2%, 2.2%, 2.4%, 2.6%, 2.8%, 3%;
as in the various embodiments, the pH adjuster may be, but is not limited to, 0.05%, 0.07%, 0.1%, 0.15%, 0.2%, 0.25%, 0.3% by mass.
In some embodiments, the thickener comprises at least one of xanthan gum, carbomer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sclerotium gum, cetyl alcohol;
in some embodiments, the humectant comprises at least one of allantoin, sodium polyacrylate, hydrogenated lecithin, betaine, beta-glucan, trehalose, octylglycol, dipropylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, 1, 2-butanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, glycerol, pullulanase polysaccharide, ceramide;
in some embodiments, the pH adjuster comprises at least one of arginine, tromethamine, EDTA-disodium;
In some embodiments, the emulsifier comprises at least one of caprylic capric triglyceride, C14-22 alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetostearyl glucoside, isononyl isononanoate, pentaerythritol tetraester, polydimethylsiloxane/polysiloxane, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearic acid, polymethylsilsesquioxane, pentaerythritol distearate, sucrose stearate;
in some embodiments, the preservative comprises at least one of 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol.
The cosmetic of the present invention may be prepared by any suitable method known in the art. For example, the preparation may be carried out according to a process known in the art using equipment such as a dissolution tank, an emulsifying pot, a disperser, a transfer pump, etc., which are commonly used in the cosmetic field. For example, water-soluble substances can be put into an aqueous-phase dissolution kettle, oil-soluble substances (such as sunscreens and grease) can be put into an oil-phase dissolution kettle, the temperatures of the two kettles are respectively heated to about 80 ℃, wherein the raw materials which are easy to agglomerate can be pre-dispersed by a disperser, for example, powder-containing substances (such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) can be dispersed by a proper solvent and a dispersing agent, then homogenized for 5-10min, the oil phase is added, homogenized for 5-10min again, after homogenization is finished, the oil phase and the water phase are delivered into an emulsifying pot for homogenization and emulsification for about 5-15min, after the emulsification is finished, the temperature of the raw materials is reduced to normal temperature, essence, preservative and the like are optionally added, the pH of the products is adjusted according to requirements, and after relevant detection indexes are qualified, the raw materials can be filled.
The above preparation process is merely exemplary, and those skilled in the art can increase or decrease or adjust the preparation according to the requirements of the preparation formulation, thereby preparing various preparation formulations such as spray, emulsion, gel/jelly, cream, air cushion/foundation, and the like.
For further explanation of the present invention, the following describes in detail the oil-sensitive muscle soothing composition and its application provided in connection with the accompanying drawings and examples, which are not to be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.
The following description of the raw materials used in the examples and comparative examples is provided, but is not limited to these materials:
the broom She Ao Africa tea extract-1 is self-made and the preparation method thereof is as follows:
Stirring the glass color factor and the glyceroglycosides in a molar ratio of 1:1.5 for 2 hours at a temperature of 60 ℃ to obtain a first solvent, adding ultrapure water, and uniformly stirring to obtain a eutectic solvent, wherein the mass of the first solvent is 50% of the mass of the eutectic solvent;
Adding broom She Ao Africa tea powder with average particle size smaller than 80 meshes into eutectic solvent, extracting at 70deg.C for 3 hr, and vacuum filtering to obtain filtrate which is broom She Ao Africa tea extract-1, wherein the mass ratio of broom She Ao Africa tea powder to eutectic solvent is 1:8.
The broom She Ao Africa tea extract-2 is self-made, and the preparation method comprises the following steps:
Stirring the glass color factor and the glyceroglycosides in a molar ratio of 1:1 for 3 hours at a temperature of 50 ℃ to obtain a first solvent, adding ultrapure water, and uniformly stirring to obtain a eutectic solvent, wherein the mass of the first solvent is 50% of the mass of the eutectic solvent;
Adding broom She Ao Africa tea powder with average particle size smaller than 80 meshes into eutectic solvent, extracting at 50deg.C for 3 hr, and vacuum filtering to obtain filtrate which is broom She Ao Africa tea extract-2, wherein the mass ratio of broom She Ao Africa tea powder to eutectic solvent is 1:10.
The broom She Ao Africa tea extract-3 is self-made and the preparation method thereof is as follows:
Stirring the glass color factor and the glyceroglycosides in a molar ratio of 1:2 for 1h at the temperature of 80 ℃ to obtain a first solvent, adding ultrapure water, and uniformly stirring to obtain a eutectic solvent, wherein the mass of the first solvent is 50% of the mass of the eutectic solvent;
Adding broom She Ao tea powder with average particle size smaller than 80 meshes into eutectic solvent, extracting at 80deg.C for 3 hr, and vacuum filtering to obtain filtrate which is broom She Ao tea extract-3, wherein the mass ratio of broom She Ao tea powder to eutectic solvent is 1:5.
Broom She Ao African tea extract-4 is self-made and its preparation method differs from broom She Ao African tea extract-1 only in that allantoin is used instead of the vitronectin.
Broom She Ao African tea extract-5 is self-made and the preparation method differs from broom She Ao African tea extract-1 only in that betaine is used to replace the vitronectin.
Broom She Ao Africa tea extract-6 is self-made and its preparation method differs from broom She Ao Africa tea extract-1 only in that glycerol is used instead of glucosyl glycoside.
Broom She Ao Africa tea extract-7 is self-made and its preparation method differs from broom She Ao Africa tea extract-1 only in that ethanol is used instead of eutectic solvent.
Broom She Ao Africa tea extract-8 was self-made and its preparation method differed from broom She Ao Africa tea extract-1 only in that water was used instead of the eutectic solvent.
Examples and comparative examples
Examples and comparative examples of the present invention provide a repair composition having components as shown in tables 1 and 2;
The preparation method of the repairing composition of the examples and the comparative examples comprises the following steps:
The components were weighed according to the parts by weight of tables 1 and 2, and the components were uniformly mixed to obtain the soothing and repairing composition.
TABLE 1
TABLE 2
Application examples 1 to 15, comparative application examples 1 to 10 and blank application examples
The application examples, the comparative application examples and the blank application examples of the present invention provide a face cream whose components (mass percent) are shown in table 3, wherein the soothing composition used in application examples 1 to 12 is the soothing composition prepared in examples 1 to 12, the soothing composition used in comparative application examples 1 to 10 is the soothing composition prepared in comparative examples 1 to 10, and the soothing composition used in application examples 13 to 15 is the soothing composition prepared in example 1;
the preparation methods of the creams of the application examples, the comparative application examples and the blank application examples are as follows:
(1) Mixing and stirring the humectant, the thickener and water, heating to 85 ℃, homogenizing for 4min at a rotation speed of 1200rpm, and preserving heat for later use after homogenizing to obtain a prefabricated component A;
(2) Mixing the emulsifying agents, heating to 85 ℃, homogenizing for 4min at a rotation speed of 1200rpm, and preserving heat for later use after homogenizing to obtain a prefabricated component B;
(3) Mixing the preservative, heating to 60 ℃ and melting to obtain a prefabricated C component;
(4) Heating the prefabricated component A to 80 ℃, adding the prefabricated component B at the rotation speed of 250rpm, stirring and mixing uniformly, cooling to 60 ℃, adding the prefabricated component C at the rotation speed of 250rpm, stirring and mixing, cooling to below 40 ℃, adding the relief repair composition, continuing stirring for 5min, finally adding the pH regulator to regulate the pH to 6.0, stopping stirring, and discharging to obtain the cream.
TABLE 3 Table 3
Effect example 1
Effect example the effect of the soothing composition prepared in examples 1-12 and comparative examples 1-10 on epidermal enzyme homeostasis was investigated.
1. The effect of the soothing composition prepared in examples 1 to 12 and comparative examples 1 to 10 on superoxide dismutase was tested by in vitro tests.
Superoxide dismutase (SOD) is one of the major antioxidant enzymes with multiple benefits to the skin. It can effectively remove superoxide anions in vivo, reduce oxidation pressure, slow skin aging, and improve cell health. SOD helps maintain the structure and function of the skin by protecting cell membranes and proteins. Meanwhile, the skin care composition plays an important role in maintaining an epidermal enzyme network, promotes the activity of other antioxidant enzymes, improves the metabolism of skin, enhances the skin barrier function and helps the skin to keep young and healthy. The activity of SOD enzyme can be tested in vitro by utilizing photoreduction reaction, the deeper the blue color of the reaction solution, the lower the activity of SOD enzyme produced by the composition is, the lower the antioxidant capacity is, and the higher the antioxidant capacity is, so that the activity and the antioxidant capacity of the composition SOD enzyme can be calculated.
The experimental raw materials are as follows:
130mmol/L methionine (Met) solution, weighing 1.9389g Met, dissolving with phosphoric acid buffer solution to 100ml, and preserving in a refrigerator at 4 ℃ for 1-2 d;
750 mu mol/L of Nitrogen Blue Tetrazolium (NBT) solution is prepared by weighing 0.06133gNBT, dissolving with phosphoric acid buffer solution to 100ml, keeping in dark, and storing in a refrigerator at 4 ℃ for 2-3 d;
Weighing 0.0075g of riboflavin in 20 mu mol/L of riboflavin solution, dissolving the riboflavin in a phosphate buffer solution to 1000mL, preparing the riboflavin solution for use at present, and preserving the riboflavin solution in a dark place;
Weighing 0.0372g of EDTA-2Na, and fixing the volume to 1000mL by distilled water;
Sample solution to each of the conditioning compositions obtained in examples and comparative examples in table 1, sterile PBS buffer was added to the conditioning composition of example 1 to give a total mass of 100 parts by weight of the sample solution, and 90.7 parts by weight of the sterile PBS buffer was added to the conditioning composition of example 1 to give the sample solution of example 1.
The test steps are as follows:
Each group is provided with 5 clear ep tubes which are washed and dried, the numbers are that each reagent and enzyme solution are added according to the table 4, the total volume of a reaction system is 3mL, after vortex mixing, each tube reacts for 10min under different temperatures (20 ℃, 25 ℃, 35 ℃ and 40 ℃) and 4000-4500lx sunlight (the light receiving condition of each tube is required to be consistent, the reaction time is properly adjusted according to the reaction color and the enzyme activity of the control tube under light), the No. 5 tube is at the same temperature and is subjected to light shielding treatment, after the reaction is finished, black cloth is used for shielding, the reaction is terminated, the No. 5 tube is used for blank zeroing, the absorbance of the reaction solution of the No. 1-4 tube is measured at 560nm, the measured data is recorded, and each experiment is repeated for 3 times.
TABLE 4 sample tube configuration Meter
The calculation formula is as follows:
The ability of the sample to inhibit superoxide anions is expressed as SOD-like enzyme activity, and the SOD activity units are known to be expressed as 50% of the inhibition of the photochemical reduction of NBT as one enzyme activity unit, and the SOD activity of the resulting soothing composition of each example and comparative example is calculated according to formula 1:
SOD total activity (U/mL) = (A0-As) ×v/50% ×a0×vs (formula 1),
SOD total activity is expressed in enzyme units per mL of sample (U/mL),
In the formula 1, A0 is absorbance of a control tube under light, as is absorbance of a sample measuring tube, V is total volume (mL) of a sample extracting solution, and Vs is the amount (mL) of the sample extracting solution to be measured. Since the SOD enzyme activity per mL of the composition was examined in this study, not by the extract, and thus V and Vs could be offset, the final calculation formula was SOD total activity (U/mL) = (A0-As)/50%. Times.A0, and the test results are shown in Table 5.
2. The effect of the soothing composition prepared in examples 1 to 12 and comparative examples 1 to 10 on KLK5 protein was tested by cell experiments.
KLK5 protein is an important cutinase with significant benefits in promoting metabolism of keratinocytes. It promotes the removal of dead skin cells by regulating the exfoliation and renewal process of the stratum corneum, and contributes to the formation of new keratinocytes, thus maintaining the smoothness and softness of the skin. In addition, KLK5 is also involved in regulating the skin barrier function, enhancing the defenses of the skin by promoting metabolism. Oily sensitive skin requires proper exfoliating, which promotes skin metabolism and maintains skin health. The effect of the composition on maintaining the homeostasis of the epidermal enzyme network can be judged by measuring the ability of the composition to promote KLK5 protein.
The test steps are as follows:
Human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) were recovered, and the cells were cultured using MEM containing 10% fbs as a culture medium. Soothing composition example/comparative example working solutions were prepared by dilution with cell MEM medium. Sample groups were discarded and HaCaT cells were treated for 48h with the addition of different soothing compositions examples/comparative examples and the cells without the soothing composition and without irradiation of uv light were used as blank. Different soothing compositions are prepared into sample liquid, after the sample liquid and the HaCaT cells are co-cultured, the harvested cells are used for detecting the concentration of KLK5 protein in the HaCaT cells by adopting an ELISA kit method.
The calculation formula is KLK5 protein promotion rate (%) = (sample group content-blank group content)/blank group content multiplied by 100%, and the test result is shown in Table 5.
3. The effect of the soothing composition prepared in examples 1-12 and comparative examples 1-10 on matrix metalloproteinase MMP-9 was tested using cell experiments.
MMP-9 (matrix metalloproteinase-9) plays an important role in skin damage, its main role being to break down collagen and other extracellular matrix components. Skin damage or external stimuli can lead to excessive MMP-9 activity, which in turn can continue to lead to disruption of skin structure, compromising elasticity and firmness, and accelerating the aging process. In addition, MMP-9 can also destroy the epidermis enzyme network, and by interfering with the normal function of the enzyme, the skin barrier is damaged and inflammation is aggravated, the skin resistance is weakened, and the problems of sensitivity and the like are caused. MMP-9 enzyme is an integral part of the network of epidermis enzymes, and the effect of the composition on maintaining the steady state of the network of epidermis enzymes can be judged by combining assays of the ability to inhibit matrix metalloproteinase MMP-9.
The test steps are as follows:
Human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) were recovered, and the cells were cultured using MEM containing 10% fbs as a culture medium. The skin was simulated to be damaged by different ultraviolet radiation at 50mJ/cm 2, 320 nm. Soothing composition example/comparative example working solutions were prepared by dilution with cell MEM medium. Sample groups were discarded and HaCaT cells were treated for 48h with the addition of different soothing compositions examples/comparative examples and the cells without the soothing composition and without irradiation of uv light were used as blank. Cells that were irradiated with uv light alone but without the addition of a soothing composition were used as model sets. Different soothing and repairing compositions are configured to be used for detecting the concentration of MMP-9 protease in HaCaT cells by adopting an ELISA kit method after the harvested cells are co-cultured with the HaCaT cells through a sample solution.
The calculation formula is MMP-9 protease inhibition rate (%) = (model group content-sample group content)/model group content multiplied by 100%, and the test result is shown in Table 5.
TABLE 5
From the experimental data in Table 5, it is shown that the total SOD activity of the soothing composition of the present invention is 69U/mL or more, the KLK5 acceleration rate is 37% or more, and the MMP-9 inhibition rate is 57% or more, and it is demonstrated that the soothing composition of the present invention can promote superoxide dismutase and KLK5 protein, inhibit matrix metalloproteinase-9, and effectively maintain the epidermal enzyme network steady state.
As is clear from comparative examples 1 to 5, when the soothing and repairing composition comprises, by weight, 2 to 3 parts of hydrolyzed yeast protein, 1.5 to 2 parts of horse chestnut extract, 1 to 1.5 parts of marine oligosaccharides, 1.5 to 2 parts of broom She Ao African tea extract and 1 to 3 parts of medicinal layer porus extract, the obtained soothing and repairing composition has a total SOD activity of 80U/mL or more, a KLK5 promotion rate of 42% or more and an MMP-9 inhibition rate of 63% or more, and the soothing and repairing composition in the range has a better effect of promoting superoxide dismutase and KLK5 protein, has a better effect of inhibiting matrix metalloproteinase-9, and is beneficial for maintaining the stable state of an epidermal enzyme network.
As is clear from comparative examples 1 and examples 6 to 12, the use of the eutectic solvent composed of the hydrogen bond acceptor of glucosyl glycoside and the hydrogen bond donor of vitronectin or allantoin to extract the extract of the broom She Ao African tea leaves, the use of the soothing composition containing the extract of the broom She Ao African tea leaves, the total SOD activity of the soothing composition reaching more than 102U/mL, the KLK5 promotion rate reaching more than 47% and the MMP-9 inhibition rate reaching more than 72%, shows that the soothing composition in the range has better effect of promoting superoxide dismutase and KLK5 protein, has better inhibition effect on matrix metalloproteinase-9 and is beneficial to maintaining the stable state of the epidermal enzyme network.
Comparative example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 5 revealed that the synergistic effect of the hydrolyzed yeast protein, the horse chestnut extract, the marine oligosaccharide, the broom She Ao african tea extract and the medicinal layer porus extract was exhibited by using only one of the hydrolyzed yeast protein, the horse chestnut extract, the marine oligosaccharide, the broom She Ao african tea extract and the medicinal layer porus extract or using other analogues instead of one of the hydrolyzed yeast protein, the horse chestnut extract, the broom She Ao african tea extract and the medicinal layer porus extract, and that the obtained soothing composition had a total SOD activity of less than 65U/mL, a KLK5 acceleration rate of less than 35%, and a MMP-9 inhibition rate of less than 55%, which means that the synergistic effect of the hydrolyzed yeast protein, the horse chestnut extract, the marine oligosaccharide, the broom She Ao african tea extract and the medicinal layer porus extract was exhibited, which effectively improved the effect of the soothing composition to maintain the epidermal enzyme network.
Effect example 2 human efficacy test
This effect example the effect of the creams of application examples 1 to 15, comparative application examples 1 to 10 and blank application examples on soothing, repairing, moisturizing and controlling oil of oil-sensitive skin was tested.
104 Asian adult testers of 28-60 years old with oily (sebum content >120ug/cm 2) sensitive skin (lactic acid positive) were selected and randomized into 26 groups of 4 people each. Volunteers visit each 1 time in the morning and evening, and all face use samples (creams prepared by application examples 1 to 15, comparative application examples 1 to 10, and blank application examples) and collect data on day 0 and day 28, respectively;
After the volunteers visit, the volunteers were rinsed with facial cleanser and allowed to sit still in an air-conditioned room with a temperature of 21.+ -. 1 ℃ and a humidity of 50.+ -. 10% for 2 hours. Researchers measured the percutaneous moisture loss value TEWL of the cheekbones using the skin moisture loss test probe TEWAMETER, measured the skin moisture content of the cheekbones using the skin moisture test probe Corneometer, assessed the skin erythema, itching, stinging, burning, etc. of volunteers using the 4-way self-assessment questionnaire using the sebum test probe Sebumeter SM 815 side forehead sebum content (the higher score represents stronger discomfort, 0 = no to 3 = severe), and captured facial images of subjects using Visia CR.
Skin barrier repair ability is represented by TEWL value improvement, moisturizing effect is represented by skin moisture content improvement, oil control effect is represented by improvement of skin sebum content, soothing effect is represented by improvement of skin discomfort self-evaluation score, and the formula is as follows:
TEWL value improvement rate= (T0 sample group-T28 sample group)/T0 sample group 100%;
skin moisture content improvement rate= (T28 sample group-T0 sample group)/T0 sample group 100%;
Sebum improvement rate= (T0 sample group-T28 sample group)/T0 sample group 100%;
improvement rate of skin discomfort = (T0 sample group-T28 sample group)/T0 sample group x 100;
The test results are shown in table 6 and fig. 1.
TABLE 6
From the experimental data in Table 6, it is shown that the cream containing the soothing composition of the present invention has a TEWL improvement rate of 14% or more, a sebum content improvement rate of 26% or more, a moisture content improvement rate of 37% or more, and a discomfort improvement rate of 46% or more, and the soothing composition of the present invention has excellent repairing, moisturizing, oil controlling and soothing effects.
As is clear from comparative examples 1 to 5, when the soothing composition comprises, by weight, 2 to 3 parts of hydrolyzed yeast protein, 1.5 to 2 parts of horse chestnut extract, 1 to 1.5 parts of marine oligosaccharides, 1.5 to 2 parts of broom She Ao African tea extract, and 1 to 3 parts of medicinal layer porus extract, the soothing composition provided by the invention has a cream containing the soothing composition, a TEWL improvement rate of 18% or more, a sebum content improvement rate of 41% or more, a moisture content improvement rate of 49% or more, and a discomfort improvement rate of 60% or more, and is shown to have better repairing, moisturizing, oil controlling and soothing effects.
As is clear from comparative examples 1 and examples 6 to 12, the use of the eutectic solvent composed of the hydrogen bond acceptor of glucosyl glycoside and the hydrogen bond donor of vitronectin or allantoin to extract the extract of the broom She Ao African tea leaves, enables the face cream containing the repairing composition to have a TEWL improvement rate of more than 18%, a sebum content improvement rate of more than 42%, a moisture content improvement rate of more than 50% and a discomfort improvement rate of more than 62%, and shows that the repairing composition has better repairing, moisturizing, oil controlling and relieving effects.
As is clear from comparative examples 1 and comparative examples 1 to 5, only one of hydrolyzed yeast protein, horse chestnut extract, marine oligosaccharide, broom She Ao African tea extract and medicinal layer pore fungus extract or other analogues were used instead of one of hydrolyzed yeast protein, horse chestnut extract, marine oligosaccharide, broom She Ao African tea extract and medicinal layer pore fungus extract, so that the face cream containing the repairing composition had a TEWL improvement rate of less than 13%, a sebum content improvement rate of less than 19%, a moisture content improvement rate of less than 31%, and a discomfort improvement rate of less than 43%, indicating that there was a synergistic effect between hydrolyzed yeast protein, horse chestnut extract, marine oligosaccharide, broom She Ao African tea extract and medicinal layer pore fungus extract, effectively improving the repairing, moisturizing, oil controlling and soothing effects of the repairing composition.
Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments illustrate the technical solution of the present disclosure and not limit the scope of the present disclosure, and although the present disclosure has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that the technical solution of the present disclosure may be modified or equally substituted without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solution of the present disclosure.