CN103494737B - Cosmetic preparation using ginger flower as anti-ageing and skin-protecting factor and preparation method of cosmetic preparation - Google Patents
Cosmetic preparation using ginger flower as anti-ageing and skin-protecting factor and preparation method of cosmetic preparation Download PDFInfo
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- CN103494737B CN103494737B CN201310452324.4A CN201310452324A CN103494737B CN 103494737 B CN103494737 B CN 103494737B CN 201310452324 A CN201310452324 A CN 201310452324A CN 103494737 B CN103494737 B CN 103494737B
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
本发明公开了一种以姜花作为抗衰老护肤因子的化妆品制剂及制备方法,所述化妆品制剂由质量含量为6.01-30.5%的基料、5~75%的油相原料和15~85%的水相原料组成,基料由质量含量为5~20%的姜花凝胶冻干粉、1~10%的维生素E和0.01~0.5%的透明质酸组成;本发明具有抗自由基、抗氧化、抗辐射、抑菌、促进皮肤细胞增殖,防止皮肤的氧化损伤、减少黑素合成、延缓皮肤衰老等美容功效,且对皮肤和粘膜无刺激、过敏性反应,并能赋予产品以姜花特有的清香,可应用在诸如霜剂、乳剂、洗面乳液、面膜等多种护肤剂型。The invention discloses a cosmetic preparation using ginger flower as an anti-aging skin care factor and a preparation method thereof. Composed of aqueous phase raw materials, the base material is composed of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder with a mass content of 5-20%, 1-10% vitamin E and 0.01-0.5% hyaluronic acid; the present invention has anti-free radical, anti-oxidation , anti-radiation, antibacterial, promote skin cell proliferation, prevent skin oxidative damage, reduce melanin synthesis, delay skin aging and other cosmetic effects, and have no irritation and allergic reactions to skin and mucous membranes, and can endow the product with the unique ginger flower It can be used in a variety of skin care formulations such as creams, emulsions, facial cleansers, and masks.
Description
技术领域technical field
本发明属于日用化妆品领域。本发明涉及一种植物姜花(Hedychiumcoronarium)作为抗衰老护肤因子在护肤剂中的应用。The invention belongs to the field of daily cosmetics. The invention relates to the application of a plant ginger flower (Hedychium coronarium) as an anti-aging skin care factor in a skin care agent.
背景技术Background technique
随着生活和文化水平的提高,化妆用品越来越受到人们的重视。由于植物活性成分具有功效好、副作用小的特点,所以以植物活性成分为主的美容化妆品越来越受到消费者的青睐。目前,国外应用于化妆品的植物约有500种,它们在化妆品中的作用大致可以分为消炎止痒、软化保湿、收敛调理、防色素斑、防晒防裂、抑汗防臭和防腐、抗氧化等。我国自20世纪80年代开始就从事天然日化领域的研究和开发,运用现代科技手段,从资源丰富的植物中提取天然活性物质,应用于功能型化妆品,先后成功开发出蒲公英、白芨、芦荟、甘草、玫瑰等系列日化产品。With the improvement of living and cultural standards, cosmetics are more and more valued by people. Because plant active ingredients have the characteristics of good efficacy and few side effects, beauty cosmetics based on plant active ingredients are more and more favored by consumers. At present, there are about 500 kinds of plants used in cosmetics abroad. Their functions in cosmetics can be roughly divided into anti-inflammatory and anti-itching, softening and moisturizing, astringent conditioning, anti-pigmentation, sun-proof and anti-cracking, anti-perspiration, deodorant and anti-corrosion, anti-oxidation, etc. . my country has been engaged in the research and development of natural daily chemicals since the 1980s, using modern scientific and technological means to extract natural active substances from resource-rich plants and applying them to functional cosmetics. It has successfully developed dandelion, bletilla striata, aloe, Licorice, rose and other daily chemical products.
皮肤是人体最外层的一个器官,它覆盖全身,保护体内各组织免收外界机械性、物理性、化学性或生理性的侵袭,并参与集体的许多生理活动,是机体的重要组成部分,更是人的仪容与衰老的标志。皮肤衰老主要表现为两个方面:①皮肤逐渐失去弹性形成皱纹;②皮肤外表逐渐产生黄褐斑、老年斑等各种色斑。根据衰老的自由基理论,国内外不少科学家研究认为引起人体皮肤衰老的最根本的原因,是细胞生理活动过程中的副产品——活性氧自由基作用,生物体的活性氧自由基是细胞氧化物代谢的产物,它不断产生,又不断被清除,正常条件下处于平衡失调,自由基清除率降低,就会构成机体组织细胞生物大分子发生破坏性反应,引起结缔组织中胶原蛋白质交联,形成不溶性分子,破坏结缔组织,缩短它的长度,使皮肤出现皱纹;自由基还可降解透明质酸,使皮肤失去弹性并易受细菌感染,导致膜质过氧化产生色素。如果化妆品中含有的成分能减少皮肤自由基的生成,提高SOD的活性,又对皮肤细胞具有一定的增殖作用,就可使皮肤组织更新加快、胶原纤维生成增多、保护皮肤水分,从而有效地减缓皮肤衰老。这也是护肤类化妆品开发一直致力的目标。综上,人口老龄化的时代特征和化妆品所处的特殊行业背景为具有抗自由基、抗氧化、抗辐射、抑菌和抗炎等生理活性的植物提取物的应用提供了广阔的空间。The skin is the outermost organ of the human body. It covers the whole body, protects various tissues in the body from external mechanical, physical, chemical or physiological invasion, and participates in many collective physiological activities. It is an important part of the body. It is also a sign of human appearance and aging. Skin aging is mainly manifested in two aspects: ①The skin gradually loses its elasticity to form wrinkles; ②The skin surface gradually produces various spots such as chloasma and age spots. According to the free radical theory of aging, many scientists at home and abroad believe that the most fundamental cause of human skin aging is the by-product of the process of cell physiological activities - the action of active oxygen free radicals. It is a product of drug metabolism, which is constantly produced and cleared. Under normal conditions, it is in a state of imbalance, and the free radical scavenging rate decreases, which will constitute a destructive reaction of biological macromolecules in the tissue cells of the body, causing cross-linking of collagen proteins in connective tissues. Form insoluble molecules, destroy connective tissue, shorten its length, and cause wrinkles in the skin; free radicals can also degrade hyaluronic acid, make the skin lose its elasticity and be susceptible to bacterial infection, and cause membrane peroxidation to produce pigment. If the ingredients contained in cosmetics can reduce the generation of free radicals in the skin, increase the activity of SOD, and have a certain proliferation effect on skin cells, it can accelerate the renewal of skin tissue, increase the production of collagen fibers, and protect skin moisture, thereby effectively slowing down the aging process. Skin aging. This is also the goal that the development of skin care cosmetics has been committed to. In summary, the characteristics of the aging population and the special industry background of cosmetics provide a broad space for the application of plant extracts with physiological activities such as anti-free radicals, anti-oxidation, anti-radiation, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory.
姜花(Hedychium coronarium),隶属姜科(Zingiberaceae)姜花属,别名蝴蝶花、白蝴蝶。据《中药大辞典》记载,其根状茎(又名土羌活)及果实,可温中健胃、除风散寒、解表发汗,治头痛、身痛、风湿等。此外,从姜花中提取的精油具有调节情绪、排除压力、增加信心的作用,甚至对多种妇科疾病也有一定的治疗作用,常被作为食品及日化用品添香剂。虽然姜花的开发具有较大的经济价值,但是,一直以来,其生物活性的研究尚停留在单体和理论的活性研究上:国外学者从姜花中分离得到8个二萜,其中4个具细胞毒性;Shrotriya等发现姜花根茎的氯仿提取物具有较好的抗炎、止痛活性;Joy等又对姜花根茎的挥发油成分及抑菌活性进行了研究。在国内,对姜花的研究则仅仅限于挥发油及萜类成分的分离。除香精香料外,国内对姜花在日化产品中的开发甚少。Ginger flower (Hedychium coronarium), belonging to Zingiberaceae (Zingiberaceae), also known as butterfly flower and white butterfly. According to the "Dictionary of Chinese Medicine", its rhizome (also known as Tuqianghuo) and fruit can warm the middle and invigorate the stomach, expel wind and cold, relieve sweating, and treat headache, body pain, rheumatism, etc. In addition, the essential oil extracted from ginger flower can regulate emotions, eliminate stress, increase confidence, and even have a certain therapeutic effect on various gynecological diseases. It is often used as a flavoring agent for food and daily chemical products. Although the development of ginger flower has great economic value, the research on its biological activity has always been on the activity of monomer and theory: foreign scholars have isolated 8 diterpenes from ginger flower, of which 4 have cellular Toxicity; Shrotriya et al. found that the chloroform extract of ginger flower rhizome has good anti-inflammatory and analgesic activity; Joy et al. also studied the volatile oil components and antibacterial activity of ginger flower rhizome. In China, the research on ginger flower is limited to the separation of volatile oil and terpenoids. In addition to flavors and fragrances, there is little domestic development of ginger flower in daily chemical products.
发明内容Contents of the invention
本发明的目的是克服现有技术的不足,提供一种以姜花作为抗衰老护肤因子的化妆品制剂及制备方法,本发明为化妆品行业提供一种天然植物来源的抗衰老护肤因子,以具有抗自由基、抗氧化、抗辐射、抑菌、美白、抗皱、祛斑功效的姜花作为抗衰老护肤因子制备天然活性护肤制剂。The purpose of the present invention is to overcome the deficiencies in the prior art, and provide a cosmetic preparation and preparation method using ginger flower as an anti-aging skin care factor. Ginger flower with free radical, anti-oxidation, anti-radiation, antibacterial, whitening, anti-wrinkle, and freckle-removing effects is used as an anti-aging skin care factor to prepare natural active skin care preparations.
本发明的目的是通过以下技术方案来实现的:一种以姜花作为抗衰老护肤因子的化妆品制剂,所述化妆品制剂由质量含量为6.01-30.5%的基料、5~75%的油相原料和15~85%的水相原料组成,其中,所述基料由质量含量为5~20%的姜花凝胶冻干粉、1~10%的维生素E和0.01~0.5%的透明质酸组成;所述油相原料为油溶性润肤剂,所述水相原料为极性溶剂。The object of the present invention is achieved through the following technical solutions: a cosmetic preparation using ginger flower as an anti-aging skin care factor, said cosmetic preparation is composed of a base material with a mass content of 6.01-30.5%, and an oil phase of 5-75%. Composed of raw materials and 15-85% of water-phase raw materials, wherein the base material is composed of 5-20% mass content of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder, 1-10% of vitamin E and 0.01-0.5% of hyaluronic acid ; The oil phase raw material is an oil-soluble emollient, and the water phase raw material is a polar solvent.
进一步地,所述油溶性润肤剂包括类固醇、蜡脂、脂肪醇、磷脂、三甘油脂、多元醇脂、脂肪醇醚、烷基脂肪酸酯、烃类油和蜡、亲水性羊毛脂衍生物、硅酮油、亲水性蜂蜡衍生物。Further, the oil-soluble emollients include steroids, wax fats, fatty alcohols, phospholipids, triglycerides, polyol fats, fatty alcohol ethers, alkyl fatty acid esters, hydrocarbon oils and waxes, hydrophilic lanolin Derivatives, silicone oil, hydrophilic beeswax derivatives.
进一步地,所述极性溶剂由水、甘油、乙醇、聚乙二醇的一种或多种按任意配比组成。优选为水。Further, the polar solvent is composed of one or more of water, glycerin, ethanol and polyethylene glycol in any proportion. Water is preferred.
上述以姜花作为抗衰老护肤因子的化妆品制剂的制备方法具体为:按照油相原料5~75%、水相原料15~85%、姜花凝胶冻干粉5~20%、维生素E1~10%和透明质酸0.01~0.5%的重量配比取材,分别将油相原料加热到70~90℃灭菌约15~25分钟,水相原料加热到80~90℃灭菌约15~25分钟,均冷却至60~70℃。然后把油相原料徐徐加入到水相原料中,使之充分乳化,继续缓慢搅拌,冷却至35~45℃,加入姜花凝胶冻干粉、维生素E和透明质酸,搅拌均匀即可。The preparation method of the above-mentioned cosmetic preparation using ginger flower as an anti-aging skin care factor is as follows: 5-75% of oil phase raw materials, 15-85% of water phase raw materials, 5-20% of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder, and 1-10% of vitamin E 0.01-0.5% by weight of hyaluronic acid, the oil-phase raw materials were heated to 70-90°C for about 15-25 minutes, and the water-phase raw materials were heated to 80-90°C for about 15-25 minutes. All cooled to 60-70°C. Then slowly add the oil-phase raw materials into the water-phase raw materials to make them fully emulsified, continue to stir slowly, cool to 35-45°C, add ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder, vitamin E and hyaluronic acid, and stir evenly.
进一步地,在加入姜花凝胶冻干粉、维生素E和透明质酸时,还可以同时加入重量百分比为0.1~1%的香精和0.1~1%色素。Further, when adding ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder, vitamin E and hyaluronic acid, 0.1-1% essence and 0.1-1% pigment by weight can also be added at the same time.
进一步地,所述姜花凝胶冻干粉通过以下方法制备得到:将经过清洁处理的姜花花瓣捣浆成姜花汁液后过滤、离心、浓缩后得姜花凝胶浓缩汁,向姜花凝胶浓缩汁加入5倍体积的乙醇,常温下充分搅拌,静置1~3小时,过滤,回收乙醇,收集姜花汁,再行过滤,收集滤液,将滤液过滤后,收集浓缩液,进一步冷冻干燥,冻干粉末过120目筛,即得。Further, the freeze-dried powder of ginger flower gel is prepared by the following method: mash the cleaned ginger flower petals into ginger flower juice, filter, centrifuge, and concentrate to obtain concentrated ginger flower gel juice, and add 5 Double the volume of ethanol, fully stir at room temperature, let stand for 1 to 3 hours, filter, recover ethanol, collect ginger flower juice, filter again, collect filtrate, after filtering the filtrate, collect concentrated liquid, further freeze-dry, freeze-dried powder Pass through a 120-mesh sieve.
本发明的有益效果是,本发明和现有技术相比,具有如下技术效果:①提供了一种天然绿色的抗衰老护肤因子——姜花,对其与皮肤生理功能相关的特征进行了系统研究,表明其具有抗自由基、抗氧化、抗辐射、抑菌、促进皮肤细胞增殖、防止皮肤的氧化损伤、减少黑色素合成、延缓皮肤衰老等美容功效,并能赋予产品以姜花特有的清香。②本发明涉及的原料来源广、成本低,安全可靠,制造工艺简单易行,适合工业化生产,在日用护肤化妆品领域有着广阔的应用前景。The beneficial effect of the present invention is that, compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following technical effects: ① A natural green anti-aging skin care factor - ginger flower is provided, and its characteristics related to skin physiological functions are systematically analyzed Studies have shown that it has anti-free radicals, anti-oxidation, anti-radiation, antibacterial, promotes skin cell proliferation, prevents skin oxidative damage, reduces melanin synthesis, delays skin aging and other cosmetic effects, and can endow the product with the unique fragrance of ginger flower . ② The raw materials involved in the present invention have wide sources, low cost, safety and reliability, simple and easy manufacturing process, are suitable for industrial production, and have broad application prospects in the field of daily skin care cosmetics.
附图说明Description of drawings
图1为使用前皮肤表况图;Figure 1 is a graph of the skin surface before use;
图2为连续使用4周本发明后皮肤表况图;Fig. 2 is a figure of skin appearance after using the present invention continuously for 4 weeks;
图3为使用前皮肤表况图;Fig. 3 is a skin surface condition diagram before use;
图4为连续使用4周本发明后皮肤表况图。Fig. 4 is a chart of skin appearance after using the present invention continuously for 4 weeks.
具体实施方式Detailed ways
本发明提供一种以姜花作为抗衰老护肤因子的化妆品制剂,所述化妆品制剂由质量含量为6.01-30.5%的基料、5~75%的油相原料和15~85%的水相原料组成,其中,基料由质量含量为5~20%的姜花凝胶冻干粉、1~10%的维生素E和0.01~0.5%的透明质酸组成。所述油相原料为油溶性润肤剂,所述水相原料为极性溶剂。The invention provides a cosmetic preparation using ginger flower as an anti-aging skin care factor. The cosmetic preparation consists of a base material with a mass content of 6.01-30.5%, an oil-phase raw material of 5-75% and a water-phase raw material of 15-85%. Composition, wherein the base material is composed of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder with a mass content of 5-20%, 1-10% vitamin E and 0.01-0.5% hyaluronic acid. The oil phase raw material is an oil-soluble emollient, and the water phase raw material is a polar solvent.
本发明提供的以姜花作为重要成分的护肤制剂,各原料成分各有专效,协同为用,效力倍增。原料中的姜花凝胶冻干粉是一种抗氧化剂,能有效清除氧自由基,抑制脂质过氧化,保护皮肤免受损害,从而有效地抑制黑色素的产生,在一定程度上可以淡化皮肤色斑;同时能赋予皮肤角质层中的角朊细胞亲水力,集湿增润,让皮肤处于润湿、柔软状态;对皮炎和局部组织蛋白有收敛和调理作用,可保护皮肤黏膜。原料中的维生素E可有效清除氧自由基、抑制脂质过氧化来防止脂褐素即各种色斑的产生;另一方面又通过活血理气、防止内皮层水份散失、抗菌消炎来保护皮肤和保证皮肤的营养。原料中的透明质酸具有吸湿性,能结合大量的水份,具有保湿滋润的功效,从而加强了皮肤的屏障,可防止皮肤水份的散失,有效地保护再生细胞的老化。In the skin care preparation with ginger flower as an important component provided by the present invention, each raw material component has its own special effect, and the synergistic effect is multiplied. The ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder in the raw material is an antioxidant that can effectively remove oxygen free radicals, inhibit lipid peroxidation, and protect the skin from damage, thereby effectively inhibiting the production of melanin, and to a certain extent can lighten skin spots ; At the same time, it can endow the keratinocytes in the stratum corneum of the skin with hydrophilicity, gather moisture and moisturize, and keep the skin in a moist and soft state; it has astringent and conditioning effects on dermatitis and local tissue proteins, and can protect the skin and mucous membranes. The vitamin E in the raw material can effectively remove oxygen free radicals, inhibit lipid peroxidation to prevent the production of lipofuscin, that is, various spots; on the other hand, it can protect the skin by promoting blood circulation, preventing water loss in the endothelial layer, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory And ensure the nutrition of the skin. The hyaluronic acid in the raw material has hygroscopicity, can bind a large amount of water, and has the effect of moisturizing, thereby strengthening the skin barrier, preventing the loss of skin moisture, and effectively protecting the aging of regenerative cells.
油溶性润肤剂包括:①类固醇,如:胆甾醇和其他羊毛脂醇;②蜡脂,如:羊毛脂、蜂蜡、鲸蜡;③脂肪醇,如:月桂醇、油醇、鲸蜡醇和脂蜡醇;④磷脂:卵磷脂和脑磷脂;⑤三甘油脂:各种动植物油脂;⑥多元醇脂,如:乙二醇、丙二醇、丙三醇、二甘醇、山梨醇、甘露醇、聚乙二醇、山梨醇酐、季戊四醇、聚氧乙烯山梨醇、聚氧乙烯山梨醇酐、聚氧乙烯山梨醇酐的单脂肪酸和双脂肪酸酯;⑦脂肪醇醚,如:鲸蜡醇、脂蜡醇或油醇等的环氧乙烷加成物;⑧烷基脂肪酸酯,如:脂肪酸的甲酯、乙丙脂和丁脂;⑨烷烃类油和蜡,如:矿油、凡士林和石蜡;⑩亲水性羊毛脂衍生物,如:聚氧乙烯山梨醇羊毛脂和聚氧乙烯羊毛脂衍生物;硅酮油,如:聚硅氧烷和甲基聚硅氧烷;亲水性蜂蜡衍生物,如:聚氧乙烯山梨醇蜂蜡。Oil-soluble emollients include: ① steroids, such as cholesterol and other lanolin alcohols; ② waxes, such as lanolin, beeswax, spermaceti; ③ fatty alcohols, such as lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and fat Wax alcohol; ④ Phospholipids: lecithin and cephalin; ⑤ Triglycerides: various animal and vegetable oils; ⑥ Polyol lipids, such as: ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin, diethylene glycol, sorbitol, mannitol, Polyethylene glycol, sorbitan, pentaerythritol, polyoxyethylene sorbitol, polyoxyethylene sorbitan, mono- and di-fatty acid esters of polyoxyethylene sorbitan; ⑦ Fatty alcohol ethers, such as: cetyl alcohol, Ethylene oxide adducts of fatty wax alcohol or oleyl alcohol; ⑧Alkyl fatty acid esters, such as: methyl esters of fatty acids, ethylene propyl fat and butyl fat; ⑨Alkane oils and waxes, such as: mineral oil, vaseline and paraffin wax; ⑩hydrophilic lanolin derivatives, such as: polyoxyethylene sorbitol lanolin and polyoxyethylene lanolin derivatives; Silicone oils such as polysiloxanes and methylpolysiloxanes; Hydrophilic beeswax derivatives such as polyoxyethylene sorbitol beeswax.
极性溶剂由水、甘油、乙醇、聚乙二醇的一种或多种按任意配比组成,应确保具有足够的极性。本发明优选的极性溶剂是水。The polar solvent is composed of one or more of water, glycerin, ethanol, and polyethylene glycol in any proportion, and it should be ensured to have sufficient polarity. The preferred polar solvent of the present invention is water.
本发明以姜花作为抗衰老护肤因子的化妆品制剂,通过以下方法来制备:按照油相原料5~75%、水相原料15~85%、姜花凝胶冻干粉5~20%、维生素E1~10%和透明质酸0.01~0.5%的重量配比取材,分别将油相原料加热到70~90℃灭菌15~25分钟,水相原料加热到80~90℃灭菌15~25分钟,均冷却至60~70℃。然后把油相原料徐徐加入到水相原料中,使之充分乳化,继续缓慢搅拌,冷却至35~45℃,加入姜花凝胶冻干粉、维生素E和透明质酸,搅拌均匀即可。In the present invention, the cosmetic preparation using ginger flower as an anti-aging skin care factor is prepared by the following method: 5-75% of oil phase raw material, 15-85% of water phase raw material, 5-20% of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder, vitamin E1~ 10% hyaluronic acid and 0.01-0.5% hyaluronic acid by weight ratio, heat the oil-phase raw materials to 70-90°C for 15-25 minutes, and heat the water-phase raw materials to 80-90°C for 15-25 minutes to sterilize. All cooled to 60-70°C. Then slowly add the oil-phase raw materials into the water-phase raw materials to make them fully emulsified, continue to stir slowly, cool to 35-45°C, add ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder, vitamin E and hyaluronic acid, and stir evenly.
加入姜花凝胶冻干粉、维生素E和透明质酸时,还可以同时加入重量百分比为0.1~1%的香精和0.1~1%的色素。When adding ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder, vitamin E and hyaluronic acid, it is also possible to add 0.1-1% essence and 0.1-1% pigment by weight at the same time.
姜花凝胶冻干粉的制备方法如下:将经过清洁处理的姜花花瓣捣浆成姜花汁液后过滤、离心、浓缩后得姜花凝胶浓缩汁,向姜花凝胶浓缩汁加入5倍体积的乙醇,常温下充分搅拌,静置1~3小时,过滤,回收乙醇,收集姜花汁,再行过滤,收集滤液,将滤液过滤后,收集浓缩液,进一步冷冻干燥,冻干粉末过120目筛,即得。The preparation method of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder is as follows: mash the cleaned ginger flower petals into ginger flower juice, filter, centrifuge, and concentrate to obtain ginger flower gel concentrated juice, add 5 times the volume of ethanol to the ginger flower gel concentrated juice, Fully stir under the pressure, stand still for 1-3 hours, filter, recover ethanol, collect ginger flower juice, filter again, collect the filtrate, after filtering the filtrate, collect the concentrated solution, further freeze-dry, freeze-dried powder passes through a 120 mesh sieve, that is have to.
所述的姜花凝胶冻干粉为原有的姜花汁液的1/20倍(以重量计)。The freeze-dried powder of ginger flower gel is 1/20 times (by weight) of the original ginger flower juice.
本发明还可以包括其他任选成分,即:pH调节剂、抗氧化剂、螯合剂、保湿剂、增稀剂,增稠剂、表面活性剂、防腐剂、色素和香料按需适当加入;另外,也可与其他活性成分,如血液循环促进剂、消毒剂、细胞活化剂、氨基酸类、维生素类、润湿剂和角质层分离剂等结合使用。The present invention can also include other optional ingredients, namely: pH regulator, antioxidant, chelating agent, humectant, thinner, thickener, surfactant, preservative, pigment and spices are added as needed; In addition, It can also be used in combination with other active ingredients such as blood circulation enhancers, disinfectants, cell activators, amino acids, vitamins, wetting agents and keratolytics.
本发明以姜花作为重要成分的护肤制剂可根据不同的产品形式和不同的应用对象选择不同的护肤基料,制成霜剂、乳剂、洗面乳液、面膜等各种护肤剂型。According to different product forms and different application objects, different skin care base materials can be selected for the skin care preparation using ginger flower as an important component of the present invention to make various skin care formulations such as cream, emulsion, facial cleansing lotion, and facial mask.
为了更好地理解本发明的实质,下面通过姜花凝胶冻干粉的皮肤生理学相关研究来说明其护肤的功效。In order to better understand the essence of the present invention, the effect of its skin care will be described below through the relevant research on skin physiology of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder.
1.姜花凝胶冻干粉的抗氧化、抗衰老作用1. Antioxidant and anti-aging effects of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder
通过测定小鼠皮肤和尾腱中强脯氨酸含量的变化,表明姜花凝胶冻干粉在低剂量时就显示出对胶原蛋白的正效应,表明有抗氧化、抑制脂质过氧化产物、清除脂褐素和保护胶原蛋白的活性。By measuring the changes of strong proline content in mouse skin and tail tendon, it was shown that ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder showed a positive effect on collagen at low doses, indicating that it had anti-oxidation, inhibited lipid peroxidation products, and eliminated Lipofuscin and protective collagen activity.
2.姜花凝胶冻干粉的抗自由基、抗辐射作用2. Anti-free radical and anti-radiation effects of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder
通过微弱化学发光分析和荧光光度分析等试验手段,比较研究了姜花凝胶冻干粉、芦荟提取物和茶多酚清除O· 2和·OH的活性及其对60Co-γ辐照和CuSO4-Phen-Vc-H2O2-DNA体系中·OH所致DNA损伤的保护作用。By means of weak chemiluminescence analysis and fluorescence photometric analysis, the activities of scavenging O · 2 and · OH of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder, aloe extract and tea polyphenols and their effects on 60 Co-γ irradiation and CuSO 4 were compared and studied. -Protective effect of · OH on DNA damage in Phen-Vc-H 2 O 2 -DNA system.
(1)清除O· 2 -和·OH能力的比较(1) Comparison of O 2 - and OH scavenging abilities
表1:三类植物提取物清除活性氧自由基的性能比较Table 1: Comparison of the performance of three types of plant extracts in scavenging active oxygen free radicals
比较三种试样清除O· 2 -和·OH的能力(表1),姜花凝胶冻干粉与芦荟提取物非常接近,茶多酚略强于它们,推测和茶多酚的高纯度有关。Comparing the ability of three samples to scavenge O · 2 - and · OH (Table 1), the ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder is very close to the aloe extract, and the tea polyphenols are slightly stronger than them, which is speculated to be related to the high purity of tea polyphenols.
(2)对EB-DNA系统荧光特性的影响(2) Effects on the fluorescence characteristics of the EB-DNA system
表2:三种植物提取物对EB-DNA系统荧光强度的抑制率Table 2: Inhibition rate of three plant extracts on fluorescence intensity of EB-DNA system
三种提取物对EB-DNA系统荧光强度的抑制呈显著的浓度依赖关系(表2),从IC50值比较,姜花凝胶冻干粉与芦荟提取物十分接近,均强于茶多酚。The inhibition of the fluorescence intensity of the three extracts on the EB-DNA system showed a significant concentration-dependent relationship (Table 2). From the comparison of the IC 50 value, the ginger flower gel lyophilized powder was very close to the aloe extract, and both were stronger than the tea polyphenols.
(3)对DNA辐射损伤的保护作用(3) Protective effect on DNA radiation damage
辐照对DNA溶液可产生直接效应和间接效应。直接效应能引起DNA分子氢键破坏、双螺旋解开、碱基脱落、单双链断裂等;间接效应主要是由于辐照时所产生恶自由基,尤其是·OH,攻击DNA链,导致DNA分子的损伤。结果造成EB与DNA结合位点减少,荧光强度值也就降低。Irradiation can have direct and indirect effects on DNA solutions. The direct effect can cause DNA molecular hydrogen bond destruction, double helix unwinding, base loss, single and double strand breaks, etc.; the indirect effect is mainly due to the evil free radicals generated during irradiation, especially OH , attacking the DNA chain, resulting in DNA molecular damage. As a result, the number of binding sites between EB and DNA decreases, and the fluorescence intensity value also decreases.
表3:三种植物提取物对不同剂量辐照时EB-DNA荧光强度的影响Table 3: Effects of three plant extracts on the fluorescence intensity of EB-DNA when irradiated at different doses
表3分别显示了不同种类、不同浓度试样在不同剂量下对EB-DNA荧光强度的影响。姜花凝胶冻干粉、芦荟提取物和茶多酚在50~100μg/mL的浓度范围内,均能使EB-DNA的荧光强度保持在较高水平,说明三种物质具有防护DNA辐照损伤作用,并显示浓度依赖关系。从三种提取物的保护作用大小看,茶多酚略强于姜花凝胶冻干粉和芦荟提取物,后两者相接近。Table 3 shows the effects of different species and concentrations of samples on the fluorescence intensity of EB-DNA at different dosages. Ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder, aloe vera extract and tea polyphenols in the concentration range of 50-100 μg/mL can all keep the fluorescence intensity of EB-DNA at a relatively high level, indicating that the three substances have the effect of protecting DNA from radiation damage , and show a concentration-dependent relationship. Judging from the protective effects of the three extracts, tea polyphenols were slightly stronger than ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder and aloe extract, and the latter two were close.
(4)对CuSO4-Phen-Vc-H2O2-DNA化学发光动力学的影响(4) Effect on CuSO 4 -Phen-Vc-H 2 O 2 -DNA chemiluminescent kinetics
CuSO4-Phen-Vc-H2O2-DNA化学发光体系在姜花凝胶冻干粉、芦荟提取物和茶多酚三种试样存在的情况下,前峰、后峰峰值下降相当明显,其半抑制浓度约在0.2μg/mL。造成发光峰值的下降是由于抗氧化剂清除了启动链式反应的·OH等,减少了·OH等造成的DNA损伤,认为姜花凝胶冻干粉等提取物起到了预防型抗氧化剂的作用。同时也看出,前峰峰值的出现时间几乎没有变化,而后峰峰值滞后,且随抗氧化剂浓度的增加,峰值后移时间延长。认为造成后峰发光峰值延时是由于试样清除了自由基链式反应的中间态自由基,使链式反应中断,起到了防护DNA自由基损伤的作用,说明姜花凝胶冻干粉等提取物是起断链作用的抗氧化剂。CuSO 4 -Phen-Vc-H 2 O 2 -DNA chemiluminescence system in the presence of three samples of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder, aloe extract and tea polyphenols, the peak value of the front peak and the back peak decreased quite significantly, and the The half inhibitory concentration is about 0.2μg/mL. The decline of the luminescence peak is due to the fact that antioxidants remove the OH etc. which start the chain reaction and reduce the DNA damage caused by OH etc. It is believed that extracts such as ginger flower gel lyophilized powder play the role of preventive antioxidants. At the same time, it can also be seen that the appearance time of the front peak value hardly changes, while the peak value of the rear peak value lags behind, and with the increase of the concentration of antioxidants, the time of the peak backward shift is prolonged. It is believed that the delay of the post-peak luminescence peak is due to the fact that the sample removes the intermediate free radicals of the free radical chain reaction, interrupts the chain reaction, and plays a role in protecting DNA free radical damage. It is an antioxidant that acts as a chain scission.
3.姜花凝胶冻干粉的抑菌、抗炎作用3. Antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder
(1)抑菌作用(1) Antibacterial effect
选择化脓性链球菌(Streptococcus pyogenes ATCC12344)、表皮葡萄球菌(Staphylococcus epidermidis ATCC12228)、金黄色葡萄球菌(Staphylococcusaureus ATCC25923)、大肠杆菌(Escherichia coli ATCC25922),参照《中华人民共和国卫生部医政司全国临床检验操作规程》第二版进行体外抑菌试验。Select Streptococcus pyogenes ATCC12344, Staphylococcus epidermidis ATCC12228, Staphylococcus aureus ATCC25923, Escherichia coli ATCC25922, and refer to the "National Clinical Inspection Operations of the Department of Medical Administration, Ministry of Health of the People's Republic of China". In vitro antibacterial test was carried out in the second edition of the Regulations.
表4:姜花凝胶冻干粉的抑菌作用Table 4: Antibacterial effect of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder
上述结果(表4)表明姜花凝胶冻干粉对上述4种细菌均有不同程度的抑制作用。The above results (Table 4) showed that the freeze-dried ginger flower gel powder had different degrees of inhibitory effects on the above four bacteria.
(2)抗炎作用(2) Anti-inflammatory effect
采用巴豆油致小鼠耳廓肿胀法检验姜花凝胶冻干粉的抗炎作用。实验结果(表5)表明,小鼠灌胃给予200 mg/kg和400 mg/kg剂量的姜花凝胶冻干粉连续7天后,对巴豆油所致耳廓肿胀具有显著(*p﹤0.05)和极显著(**p﹤0.01)的抑制作用,并呈明显地剂量依赖关系。The anti-inflammatory effect of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder was tested by croton oil-induced ear swelling in mice. The experimental results (Table 5) showed that after intragastric administration of 200 mg/kg and 400 mg/kg doses of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder for 7 consecutive days, the effect on croton oil-induced ear swelling was significant ( * p﹤0.05) and Very significant ( ** p﹤0.01) inhibitory effect, and showed a significant dose-dependent relationship.
表5:姜花凝胶冻干粉对小鼠巴豆油所致耳廓肿胀的影响Table 5: Effect of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder on ear swelling caused by croton oil in mice
注:与对照组相比,*p﹤0.05;**p﹤0.01。Note: Compared with the control group, * p﹤0.05; ** p﹤0.01.
姜花凝胶冻干粉的皮肤生理活性Skin Physiological Activity of Ginger Flower Gel Freeze-dried Powder
(1)对皮肤细胞的增殖作用(1) Proliferation effect on skin cells
表6:姜花凝胶冻干粉对两种皮肤细胞增殖能力的影响Table 6: The effect of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder on the proliferation ability of two kinds of skin cells
注:与对照组相比,*p﹤0.05;**p﹤0.01。Note: Compared with the control group, * p﹤0.05; ** p﹤0.01.
上述结果(表6)显示姜花凝胶冻干粉在0.5×10-2~0.5×10-1%剂量范围内具有促进皮肤细胞增殖的作用,其中对皮肤角质形成细胞的增殖作用在0.5×10-2%浓度时显著(*p﹤0.05),在0.5×10-1%浓度时极显著(**p﹤0.01);对皮肤成纤维细胞的增殖能力与对照组相比也有显著性差异。The above results (Table 6) show that the freeze-dried powder of ginger flower gel has the effect of promoting skin cell proliferation in the dose range of 0.5×10 -2 to 0.5×10 -1 %, and the proliferation effect on skin keratinocytes is 0.5×10 -1 % Significant at 2 % concentration ( * p﹤0.05), extremely significant at 0.5×10 -1 % concentration ( ** p﹤0.01); there is also a significant difference in the proliferation ability of skin fibroblasts compared with the control group.
(2)对皮肤细胞MDA生成量与SOD活性的影响(2) Effect on MDA production and SOD activity of skin cells
从表7结果可见,姜花凝胶冻干粉在0.5×10-3~0.5×10-2%剂量范围内具有减低脂质过氧化物MDA生成、提高抗氧化酶SOD活性的作用,其中0.5×10-2%剂量组与对照组相比具有显著性(*p﹤0.05)。It can be seen from the results in Table 7 that the freeze-dried powder of ginger flower gel has the effect of reducing the formation of lipid peroxide MDA and increasing the activity of antioxidant enzyme SOD in the dose range of 0.5×10 -3 ~0.5×10 -2 %, of which 0.5×10 Compared with the control group, the -2 % dose group was significant ( * p﹤0.05).
表7:姜花凝胶冻干粉对皮肤角质形成细胞MDA生成与SOD活性的影响Table 7: Effect of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder on MDA production and SOD activity of skin keratinocytes
注:与对照组相比,*p﹤0.05。Note: Compared with the control group, * p﹤0.05.
(3)皮肤美白功效(3) Skin whitening effect
表8:姜花凝胶冻干粉对B16黑素肿瘤细胞酪氨酸酶活性和黑素合成的影响Table 8: Effects of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder on tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cells
注:与对照组相比,*p﹤0.05;**p﹤0.01。Note: Compared with the control group, * p﹤0.05; ** p﹤0.01.
通过实验可知(表8),B16黑素肿瘤细胞酪氨酸酶抑制试验结果表明,姜花凝胶冻干粉对该酶活性无明显影响;而由黑素合成试验结果得知,姜花凝胶冻干粉在0.5×10-2~0.5×10-1%浓度时对黑素合成具有显著的抑制作用。It can be seen from the experiment (Table 8), the results of B16 melanoma cell tyrosinase inhibition test show that the lyophilized ginger flower gel has no obvious effect on the enzyme activity; It has a significant inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis at a concentration of 0.5×10 -2 ~0.5×10 -1 %.
(4)皮肤安全性评价测试(4) Skin safety evaluation test
皮肤刺激试验与眼刺激试验是了解外来物在与皮肤或粘膜接触的情况下,是否对皮肤产生刺激损害作用或导致粘膜发生炎性病变,是化妆品及其生产原料安全性评价的必检项目。测试结果显示,姜花凝胶冻干粉的皮肤刺激试验及眼刺激试验结果均为阴性,表明在皮肤外用条件下,其对人体皮肤及粘膜不会产生刺激作用。Skin irritation test and eye irritation test are to understand whether foreign substances in contact with the skin or mucous membrane will cause irritation and damage to the skin or cause inflammatory lesions on the mucous membrane. They are mandatory inspection items for the safety evaluation of cosmetics and their raw materials. The test results showed that the skin irritation test and eye irritation test of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder were all negative, indicating that it would not cause irritation to human skin and mucous membranes under external skin conditions.
(5)人体皮肤斑贴试验(5) Human skin patch test
选用合格的斑试器,以封闭式斑贴试验方法,将受试物姜花凝胶冻干粉约0.1g溶解于蒸馏水适量,并滴于斑试器内,外用专用胶带敷贴于受试者背部,24小时后去除受试物,分别在去除后0.5、24、48小时观察皮肤反应,按《化妆品卫生规范》(2007年版)中皮肤反应分级标准记录其结果。试验结果如表9。Select a qualified spot tester and use the closed patch test method to dissolve about 0.1g of the test substance ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder in an appropriate amount of distilled water, drop it in the spot tester, and apply the special tape for external use on the back of the subject. , Remove the test substance after 24 hours, observe the skin reaction at 0.5, 24, and 48 hours after removal, and record the results according to the skin reaction grading standard in the "Hygienic Standards for Cosmetics" (2007 edition). The test results are shown in Table 9.
表9:人体皮肤斑贴试验结果Table 9: Results of human skin patch test
人体皮肤斑贴试验结果显示:50人中0例出现皮肤不良反应;说明姜花凝胶冻干粉的使用安全。The results of human skin patch test showed that 0 cases of skin adverse reactions occurred in 50 people; it shows that the use of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder is safe.
(6)美白、祛斑效果试验(6) Whitening and freckle removal effect test
受试者在左、右脸颊依次循环标记:以4×4cm大小的面积作为受试区域和空白对照区域。受试者每天早晚在实验区域使用姜花凝胶冻干粉的水溶液两次,实验期间,受试者在实验部位不再涂抹任何其他化妆品。受试者在连续使用受试物一周、两周、三周和四周后,每周同一时间受试者将涂抹部位洗净,由测试人员使用Mexameter MX18测试仪和MicroSkin Ⅱ多功能皮肤镜图像分析系统测定涂抹部位的含量。将测得数据进行统计后,分析皮肤颜色变化规律。结果表明,姜花凝胶冻干粉使用1周后与空白组相比较,黑色素含量明显降低(p﹤0.05);使用4周后抑制黑色素效果明显,且具有持续性。The subject circled marks on the left and right cheeks in turn: an area of 4×4 cm was used as the test area and the blank control area. The subjects used the aqueous solution of ginger flower gel lyophilized powder on the test area twice a day in the morning and evening. During the experiment, the test subjects did not apply any other cosmetics on the test site. After using the test substance continuously for one week, two weeks, three weeks and four weeks, the subjects washed the smeared parts at the same time every week, and the testers used the Mexameter MX18 tester and MicroSkin Ⅱ multifunctional dermatoscope to analyze the images The system measures the content at the application site. After the measured data is statistically analyzed, the skin color change rule is analyzed. The results showed that compared with the blank group, the melanin content of ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder was significantly reduced after 1 week of use (p﹤0.05); after 4 weeks of use, the effect of inhibiting melanin was obvious and sustainable.
综上,姜花凝胶冻干粉对皮肤细胞具有良好的生物学作用,能够促进皮肤角质形成细胞及成纤维细胞的增殖能力,同时提高SOD活性,降低氧化损伤,提示姜花凝胶冻干粉可作为延缓皮肤衰老的活性物质应用到化妆品中。皮肤美白、祛斑功能测试发现,姜花凝胶冻干粉能够有效降低黑色素细胞合成黑素的含量,在一定程度上美白皮肤、使色斑消褪。In conclusion, ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder has a good biological effect on skin cells, can promote the proliferation of skin keratinocytes and fibroblasts, and at the same time increase SOD activity and reduce oxidative damage, suggesting that ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder can be used as a delayer. Active substances for skin aging are used in cosmetics. Skin whitening and freckle removal function tests found that ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder can effectively reduce the content of melanin synthesized by melanocytes, whiten the skin to a certain extent, and make pigmentation fade away.
下述实例用以进一步说明本发明,可供参考,但并不由此限制本发明范围。Following example is in order to further illustrate the present invention, for reference, but does not limit the scope of the present invention thus.
实施例1~3:Embodiment 1~3:
按重量份配比称取各原料(表10)。将油相原料加热到70℃,水相原料加热到90℃,维持25分钟灭菌,冷却至70℃。然后把油相原料徐徐加入到水相原料溶液中,使之充分乳化,继续缓慢搅拌,冷却至45℃,按配比加入姜花凝胶冻干粉、维生素E和透明质酸,并加入适量香精、色素,搅拌均匀。The raw materials were weighed according to the weight ratio (Table 10). Heat the oil phase raw materials to 70°C, heat the water phase raw materials to 90°C, maintain for 25 minutes for sterilization, and cool to 70°C. Then slowly add the oil phase raw materials into the water phase raw material solution to make it fully emulsified, continue to stir slowly, cool to 45°C, add ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder, vitamin E and hyaluronic acid according to the proportion, and add appropriate amount of essence and pigment , stir well.
表10:姜花作为抗衰老护肤因子在护肤化妆品制剂中的应用实例Table 10: Application examples of ginger flower as an anti-aging skin care factor in skin care cosmetic preparations
注:由于活性成分里含有适量的水,加上活性成分里的水总重至100。Note: Since the active ingredient contains an appropriate amount of water, the total weight of the water in the active ingredient is 100.
如图1和图2对比可见,经试用,实施例1-3对皮肤均有一定美容功效:促进皮肤新陈代谢、润湿表皮、抑制异状皮脂分泌,以及活化细胞、淡化黑色素。Comparing Fig. 1 and Fig. 2, it can be seen that after trial use, Examples 1-3 all have certain cosmetic effects on the skin: promoting skin metabolism, moisturizing the epidermis, inhibiting abnormal sebum secretion, activating cells, and reducing melanin.
实施例4~6:Embodiment 4~6:
按重量份配比称取各原料(表11)。将油相原料加热到90℃,水相原料加热到80℃,维持15分钟灭菌,冷却至60℃。然后把油相原料徐徐加入到水相原料溶液中,使之充分乳化,继续缓慢搅拌,冷却至35℃,按配比加入姜花凝胶冻干粉、维生素E和透明质酸,并加入适量香精、色素,搅拌均匀。Each raw material was weighed according to the proportion by weight (Table 11). Heat the oil phase raw materials to 90°C, heat the water phase raw materials to 80°C, maintain for 15 minutes for sterilization, and cool to 60°C. Then slowly add the oil phase raw materials into the water phase raw material solution to make it fully emulsified, continue to stir slowly, cool to 35°C, add ginger flower gel freeze-dried powder, vitamin E and hyaluronic acid according to the proportion, and add appropriate amount of essence and pigment , stir well.
表11:姜花作为抗衰老护肤因子在护肤化妆品制剂中的应用实例(续)Table 11: Application examples of ginger flower as an anti-aging skin care factor in skin care cosmetic preparations (continued)
如图3和图4对比可见,实验证明,本实施例4-6制备的护肤化妆品制剂均具有抑制皮肤表面的有害菌、活化皮肤细胞、调理皮肤及淡化黑色素功效。It can be seen from the comparison of Figure 3 and Figure 4 that the experiments prove that the skin care cosmetic preparations prepared in Examples 4-6 all have the effects of inhibiting harmful bacteria on the skin surface, activating skin cells, conditioning the skin and reducing melanin.
上述实施例用来解释说明本发明,而不是对本发明进行限制,在本发明的精神和权利要求的保护范围内,对本发明作出的任何修改和改变,都落入本发明的保护范围。The above-mentioned embodiments are used to illustrate the present invention, rather than to limit the present invention. Within the spirit of the present invention and the protection scope of the claims, any modification and change made to the present invention will fall into the protection scope of the present invention.
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