Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the technical problems, the invention provides a composition containing peony extract and having a whitening effect and a preparation method thereof.
The composition containing the peony extract and having the whitening effect provided by the invention comprises the peony extract and the multiple plant extract composition.
The peony extract is peony fresh petal squeezing stock solution (PAEONIA SUFFRUTICOSA FLOWER WATER) and peony seed oil (PAEONIA SUFFRUTICOSA SEED OIL).
The peony fresh petal stock solution is prepared from raw ecological high-quality peony fresh flowers by adopting a physical cold pressing process, specifically a peony fresh petal cell solution, no exogenous water is added, natural active substance components in the peony fresh petal stock solution can be reserved to the maximum extent, and compared with rose hydrosol, the DPPH free radical and hydroxyl free radical removing capability of the peony fresh petal stock solution is 10 times of that of the peony fresh petal stock solution.
The peony seed oil, in particular to the easily absorbable small-molecule oil which is specially used as a cosmetic raw material and has no solvent residue and is obtained by a supercritical carbon dioxide extraction technology, contains more than 90 percent of unsaturated fatty acid, can effectively remove various free radicals generated by cell metabolism, and simultaneously combines and dissolves deposited lipid substances to keep the activity of skin cells.
The multiple plant extract composition is composed of golden chamomile extract, honeysuckle flower extract, pseudo-ginseng root extract, eucommia bark extract, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract and Glycyrrhiza flavonoid compound.
The composition of the invention also comprises 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, nicotinamide, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, tocopheryl acetate, low molecular hyaluronic acid, inositol, and glycerol.
The composition containing peony extract and having whitening effect provided by the invention comprises the following components in parts by weight:
0.6-6 parts of peony extract, 0.05-4.1 parts of multiple plant extract composition, 0.1-1 part of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, 0.5-5 parts of nicotinamide, 0.1-1 part of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, 0.1-1 part of tocopheryl acetate, 0.05-0.5 part of low molecular hyaluronic acid, 0.5-3 parts of inositol and 2-8 parts of glycerin.
Preferably, in the peony extract, 0.5-5 parts of peony fresh petal squeezing stock solution and 0.1-1 part of peony seed oil are used.
Preferably, in the multiple plant extract composition, 0.01-1 part of chamomile extract, 0.01-1 part of honeysuckle extract, 0.01-1 part of pseudo-ginseng root extract, 0.01-1 part of eucommia bark extract, and 0.01-0.1 part of licorice root extract and licorice flavonoid compound.
Preferably, the Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract and the Glycyrrhiza flavonoid compound comprise 92% of Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract and 8% of Glycyrrhiza glabra flavonoid.
More preferably, the composition provided by the invention comprises the following components in parts by weight:
3 parts of peony fresh petal squeezing stock solution, 0.5 part of peony seed oil, 0.05 part of golden chamomile extract, 0.01 part of honeysuckle extract, 0.01 part of pseudo-ginseng root extract, 0.05 part of eucommia bark extract, 0.02 part of a complex of licorice root extract and licorice flavonoids, 0.5 part of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, 3 parts of nicotinamide, 0.5 part of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, 0.5 part of tocopheryl acetate, 0.1 part of low molecular hyaluronic acid, 1 part of inositol and 4 parts of glycerin.
The various raw material components involved in the invention are characterized by the following:
The 3-O-ethyl ascorbate ether is a vitamin C derivative, can easily enter the dermis layer through the stratum corneum, and can inhibit the generation of tyrosinase after entering the organism, so that the generation of melanin is inhibited, the biological effect of the vitamin C is exerted, and the effects of whitening and removing freckles are achieved.
Golden chamomile is called as "noble flower" in Latin, is regarded as "shenhua" from ancient times, contains rich flavonoid active ingredients, has good effects of relaxing sensitization, repairing sensitive skin, reducing red blood streaks, reducing redness, adjusting uneven skin color and the like, and has good soothing effect on skin easy to itch.
The eucommia bark contains rich gutta-percha, can bring natural viscosity, avoids skin sensitivity caused by adding components such as artificial thickening agent and the like into the composition such as cosmetics and the like for improving the product viscosity, and can improve the safety of the product.
The functional components of glabridin (Glabrene) and glabridin (Glabridin) which have strong antioxidant activity and are used for fading skin exist in tissue cells such as roots and rhizomes of glabridin, and the like, so that the whitening skin care composition can be matched with peony extract to achieve good sun-screening and whitening effects.
The composition containing the peony extract and having the whitening effect is obtained through freeze-drying treatment.
The composition containing the peony extract and having the whitening effect is prepared by the following method:
(1) Adding a formula amount of squeezed stock solution of fresh peony petals, peony seed oil, tocopheryl acetate and glycerol into a container, uniformly stirring, and marking as a solution I for later use;
(2) Adding deionized water, nicotinamide, flos Matricariae Chamomillae extract, flos Lonicerae extract, notoginseng radix root extract, and cortex Eucommiae extract into another container, stirring, and recording as solution II;
(3) Adding 10% -15% of the total amount of the solution II into the solution I, stirring for 4-5min to make the solution clear and transparent, and then continuously adding the rest of the solution II, and uniformly stirring for later use;
(4) Adding a licorice root extract and a licorice flavonoid compound, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, low-molecular hyaluronic acid and inositol into the solution obtained in the step (3), uniformly stirring, and marking as a solution III;
(5) Filling the solution III into a freeze-drying box, and then starting freeze-drying to obtain a composition;
the freeze-drying parameters are that the pre-freezing temperature is-60 to-40 ℃, the pre-freezing temperature is kept for 3-5 hours after the pre-freezing temperature reaches the preset pre-freezing temperature, the drying time is 6-10 hours, the temperature of the partition board in the sublimation stage is 30-50 ℃, and the pressure is 10-20 Pa.
The freeze-dried composition provided by the invention can be used singly or compounded into a skin care product according to the addition amount of 10% -20%, and the dosage form of the skin care product can be any one of cream, milk, liquid, essence and facial mask.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
(1) According to the composition containing the peony extract and having the whitening effect, the peony extract is matched with the 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, the tocopheryl acetate and the nicotinamide to serve as main whitening effect substances, on one hand, the characteristic that the tocopheryl acetate is oxidized by light is utilized to block direct contact of skin surface cells and light, and damage of ultraviolet rays to skin is reduced, on the other hand, the antioxidation and whitening effect of the peony extract are combined, and the 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, the tocopheryl acetate and the like are combined to inhibit the action activity of the aminopeptidase in the cells through penetrating into the skin, so that melanin generation is fundamentally reduced, and finally the skin whitening effect is achieved.
(2) The composition of the invention is also added with various natural plant extracts, low molecular hyaluronic acid and other components, and each plant extract contains rich flavone and flavonoid substances, so that the composition can assist in playing a proper role in moisturizing while whitening skin, is favorable for keeping skin compact and full in moisture, and further delays skin aging.
In addition, the inositol added in the invention is the growth factors of animals and microorganisms, and the inositol is added, so that the inositol can be synergistic with multiple natural plant extracts to further improve the activity of skin cells.
(3) According to the invention, a small amount of eucommia bark extract is added, the viscosity of a composition product is improved by using natural gutta-percha components contained in eucommia bark, and components such as a synthetic thickener, a tackifier and the like are not added in the composition, so that the production cost of the composition product is reduced, and the use safety of the product is improved.
(4) The peony extract adopted in the composition is peony fresh flower stock solution and micromolecular peony seed oil which is easy to be absorbed by skin, wherein the peony fresh flower stock solution is prepared by taking raw ecological high-quality peony fresh flowers as raw materials and adopting a physical cold pressing process, the peony seed oil is obtained by a supercritical carbon dioxide extraction technology, has no solvent residue, high safety coefficient and rich bioactive substances, contains more than 90 percent of unsaturated fatty acid, can penetrate into skin, effectively eliminates various free radicals generated by skin cell metabolism, and combines and dissolves deposited lipid substances to keep the activity of skin cells.
(5) The invention adopts a unique freeze-drying process to prepare the whitening composition, avoids the damage of the high-temperature operation of the traditional cosmetic preparation process to the components of the natural extract, can furthest exert the efficacy of bioactive substances in the extract, and further improves the overall efficacy of the composition product.
Detailed Description
The present invention will now be further described in connection with specific embodiments in order to enable those skilled in the art to better understand the invention.
The peony seed oil used in the embodiment of the invention is purchased from the Duuzepa biotechnology company, inc. of peony, and the unsaturated fatty acid content is 92.05%.
Example 1
Adding 3 parts of peony fresh petal squeezing stock solution, 0.5 part of peony seed oil, 0.5 part of tocopheryl acetate and 4 parts of glycerol into a container, uniformly stirring, and marking as a solution I for later use;
(2) Adding deionized water, 3 parts of nicotinamide, 0.05 part of golden chamomile extract, 0.01 part of honeysuckle extract, 0.01 part of pseudo-ginseng root extract and 0.05 part of eucommia bark extract into another container, uniformly stirring, and marking as solution II for later use;
(3) Adding the total 13% solution II into the solution I, stirring for 4min until the solution is clear and transparent, and continuing to add the rest solution II, and stirring uniformly for later use;
(4) Adding 0.02 part of a licorice root extract and a licorice flavonoid compound, 0.5 part of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, 0.5 part of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, 0.1 part of low molecular hyaluronic acid and 1 part of inositol into the solution obtained in the step (3), uniformly stirring, and marking as a solution III;
(5) Filling the solution III into a freeze-drying box, and then starting freeze-drying to obtain a composition;
The freeze-drying parameters are that the pre-freezing temperature is-50 ℃, the pre-freezing temperature is kept for 4 hours after the pre-freezing temperature reaches the preset pre-freezing temperature, the drying time is 8 hours, the temperature of the partition board in the sublimation stage is 40 ℃, and the pressure is 15Pa.
Example 2
Adding 0.5 part of peony fresh petal squeezing stock solution, 0.1 part of peony seed oil, 0.1 part of tocopheryl acetate and 2 parts of glycerol into a container, uniformly stirring, and marking as a solution I for later use;
(2) Adding deionized water, nicotinamide 0.5 part, chamomile extract 0.01 part, honeysuckle extract 0.01 part, notoginseng root extract 0.01 part and eucommia bark extract 0.01 part into another container, stirring uniformly, and recording as solution II for later use;
(3) Adding the total 10% solution II into the solution I, stirring for 4min until the solution is clear and transparent, and continuing to add the rest solution II, and stirring uniformly for later use;
(4) Adding 0.01 part of a licorice root extract and licorice flavonoid compound, 0.1 part of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, 0.1 part of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, 0.05 part of low molecular hyaluronic acid and 0.5 part of inositol into the solution obtained in the step (3), uniformly stirring, and marking as a solution III;
(5) Filling the solution III into a freeze-drying box, and then starting freeze-drying to obtain a composition;
the freeze-drying parameters are that the pre-freezing temperature is-40 ℃, the pre-freezing temperature is kept for 3 hours after the pre-freezing temperature reaches the preset pre-freezing temperature, the drying time is 6 hours, the temperature of the partition board in the sublimation stage is 30 ℃, and the pressure is 10Pa.
Example 3
Adding 5 parts of peony fresh petal squeezing stock solution, 1 part of peony seed oil, 1 part of tocopheryl acetate and 8 parts of glycerol into a container, uniformly stirring, and marking as a solution I for later use;
(2) Adding deionized water, nicotinamide 5 parts, chamomile extract 1 part, honeysuckle extract 1 part, pseudo-ginseng root extract 1 part and eucommia bark extract 1 part into another container, uniformly stirring, and marking as a solution II for later use;
(3) Adding the total 15% solution II into the solution I, stirring for 4min until the solution is clear and transparent, and continuing to add the rest solution II, and stirring uniformly for later use;
(4) Adding 0.1 part of a licorice root extract and licorice flavonoid compound, 1 part of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, 1 part of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, 0.5 part of low-molecular hyaluronic acid and 3 parts of inositol into the solution obtained in the step (3), uniformly stirring, and marking as a solution III;
(5) Filling the solution III into a freeze-drying box, and then starting freeze-drying to obtain a composition;
The freeze-drying parameters are that the pre-freezing temperature is minus 60 ℃, the pre-freezing temperature is kept for 5 hours after the pre-freezing temperature reaches the preset pre-freezing temperature, the drying time is 10 hours, the temperature of the partition board in the sublimation stage is 50 ℃, and the pressure is 20Pa.
Example 4
The parts by weight of the components and the preparation steps are the same as in example 1, and only the freeze-drying process parameters of the composition are changed;
The specific freeze-drying process parameters are that the pre-freezing temperature is-40 ℃, the pre-freezing temperature is kept for 3 hours after the pre-freezing temperature reaches the preset pre-freezing temperature, the drying time is 6 hours, the temperature of a partition board in a sublimation stage is 30 ℃, and the pressure is 10Pa.
Example 5
The parts by weight of the components and the preparation steps are the same as in example 1, and only the freeze-drying process parameters of the composition are changed;
The specific freeze-drying process parameters are that the pre-freezing temperature is minus 60 ℃, the pre-freezing temperature is kept for 5 hours after the pre-freezing temperature reaches the preset pre-freezing temperature, the drying time is 10 hours, the temperature of a partition board in the sublimation stage is 50 ℃, and the pressure is 20Pa.
Example 6
The parts by weight of the components and the preparation steps are the same as in example 1, and only the freeze-drying process parameters of the composition are changed;
the specific freeze-drying process parameters are that the pre-freezing temperature is-45 ℃, the pre-freezing temperature is kept for 5 hours after the pre-freezing temperature reaches the preset pre-freezing temperature, the drying time is 8 hours, the temperature of a partition board in a sublimation stage is 42 ℃, and the pressure is 18Pa.
Examples 7 to 12
Under the precondition that the freeze-drying process conditions of the composition product are the same as those of the example 1, only the parts by weight of each component in the composition are changed, and the parts by weight of each component in the raw materials of the composition are shown in the following table:
table 1 weight fraction of the components in examples 7 to 12
The product properties of examples 1-12 are shown in Table 2.
TABLE 2 product Performance cases for examples 1-12
As can be seen from the above table, the product obtained in each embodiment has a good texture, a mellow and non-pungent peony fragrance, a good application property to the skin, a good air permeability, no allergic abnormality after use, a good improvement effect on the darkness of the facial skin, and a whitening effect.
Comparative example 1
On the premise that the freeze-drying parameter conditions of the composition are the same as those of the example 1, only the content of multiple plant extracts in each component is changed, and the specific steps are as follows:
(1) Adding 3 parts of peony fresh petal squeezing stock solution, 0.5 part of peony seed oil, 0.5 part of tocopheryl acetate and 4 parts of glycerol into a container, uniformly stirring, and marking as a solution I for later use;
(2) Adding deionized water, 3 parts of nicotinamide, 2 parts of golden chamomile extract, 2 parts of honeysuckle extract, 3 parts of pseudo-ginseng root extract and 5 parts of eucommia bark extract into another container, uniformly stirring, and marking as a solution II for later use;
(3) Adding the total 13% solution II into the solution I, stirring for 4min until the solution is clear and transparent, and continuing to add the rest solution II, and stirring uniformly for later use;
(4) Adding 2 parts of a licorice root extract and a licorice flavonoid compound, 0.5 part of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, 0.5 part of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, 0.1 part of low molecular hyaluronic acid and 1 part of inositol into the solution obtained in the step (3), uniformly stirring, and marking as a solution III;
(5) And (5) filling the solution III into a freeze-drying box, and then starting freeze-drying to obtain the composition.
Comparative example 2
On the premise that the freeze-drying parameter conditions and steps of the composition are the same as those of the embodiment 1, only the content of the peony extract is changed, wherein 6 parts of fresh peony petal squeezing stock solution and 3 parts of peony seed oil are used.
Comparative example 3
On the premise that the freeze-drying parameter conditions and steps of the composition are the same as those of the embodiment 1, only the content of the peony extract is changed, wherein 3 parts of fresh peony petal squeezing stock solution and 6 parts of peony seed oil are used.
Comparative example 4
Under the condition that the freeze-drying parameters and the steps of the composition are the same as those of the example 1, only the content of the eucommia bark extract is changed, wherein the addition amount of the eucommia bark extract is 1.6 parts.
Comparative example 5
On the premise that the raw material components and the process steps (1) - (4) are completely the same as those of the embodiment 1, only the condition of freeze-drying operation is changed, wherein the freeze-drying parameters are that the prefreezing temperature is-15 ℃, the condition is kept for 4 hours after the prefreezing temperature reaches the stipulated prefreezing temperature, the drying time is 8 hours, the temperature of a partition board in a sublimation stage is 20 ℃, and the pressure is 15Pa.
Comparative example 6
On the premise that the raw material components and the process steps (1) - (4) are completely the same as those of the embodiment 1, only the freeze-drying process is changed into a high-pressure homogenizing process, and the technological parameters are 1000r/min and the homogenization is carried out for 2min.
Comparative example 7
The properties of the products obtained in comparative examples 1 to 6 were evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 3.
Table 3 conditions of the product properties of comparative examples 1 to 6
In addition to the results shown in the table, in fact, the final products of comparative examples 1-2 were more organoleptic irritating, and the peony was strongly fragrant, easily sneezed and connected to the people more sensitive to floral and aromatic, and the audience of the composition product was narrower than the product obtained in example 1.
The composition product obtained in comparative example 3 was greasy and less breathable than the product of example 1, and had poor adsorption to skin tissue.
The composition product obtained in comparative example 4 has a great improvement in adhesiveness as compared with the product of example 1, but when the product is tried on the skin, the contact with the skin is tighter, the difficulty in washing is greater, and the air permeability of the product is extremely poor, so that the addition amount of the eucommia bark extract must be controlled at a low level.
The product obtained in comparative example 5 was loose in texture, poor in fineness, possibly caused by a high temperature of the lyophilization process and a low degree of mixing of the product, and in addition, the study also found that the freezing effect did not show a large change under the condition of too low a lyophilization temperature, and the energy consumption was high, so that the temperature conditions of lyophilization cooling were limited to-60 to-40 ℃.
The product obtained in comparative example 6 has a strong smell, and in view of the fact that the raw materials used in the present invention, such as 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, are more sensitive to light and heat and contain more natural plant components, the product easily generates higher heat during high-pressure homogenization to inactivate part of the raw material components of the product, and further to impair the efficacy of the composition product, so that the present invention does not use high-pressure homogenization to prepare the product in order to avoid the raw materials in the product from being damaged or inactivated.