CN114990752A - Shrinkage type wool yarn covered yarn, preparation method and application thereof, fabric and preparation method - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention provides a shrinkage type wool yarn covered yarn, a preparation method and application thereof, a fabric and a preparation method thereof, and relates to the technical field of spinning. The shrinkage type wool yarn covered yarn provided by the invention comprises a core yarn and an outer wrapping yarn, wherein the outer wrapping yarn is a high shrinkage filament yarn B, the core yarn is a wool yarn or a wool yarn and a high shrinkage filament yarn A, and the raw materials of the yarn have wide practicability. Through the blending effect of the covering processing of the wool yarns and the high-shrinkage filament yarns, the yarn strength can be improved, the strength unevenness rate can be reduced, the yarn evenness can be improved, the yarn is used for weaving fabrics, and the weft knitting efficiency and the fabric quality can be improved. The shrinkage type wool yarn coated yarn is used as a raw material, a knitted fabric is woven firstly, then the high shrinkage component in the fabric is shrunk through dry heat shrinkage and felting treatment, the effect similar to 'felting' is achieved, the surface wool layer of the prepared fabric is formed by wool yarn loops and hair retained on the fabric surface, the fabric surface is comfortable in touch, and the touch style and the visual style different from those of common knitted wool fabric are achieved.

Description

Shrinkage type wool yarn covered yarn, preparation method and application thereof, fabric and preparation method

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of spinning, in particular to a shrinkage type wool yarn covered yarn, a preparation method and application thereof, a fabric and a preparation method thereof.

Background

1. Knitted woolen fabric

The knitted woolen fabric is also called knitted woolen fabric, and is weft-knitted fabric which is knitted (circular knitting) by using worsted or semi-worsted wool yarns (wool pure yarns or blended yarns) as raw materials and is made into woolen fabric with the similar knitted (woven) woolen fabric suede style through fulling processing. The general production process comprises the following steps:

yarn material → circular knitting machine weaving (weft knitting) → turning over → humidifying, preshrinking → dewatering → shrinking → washing → dewatering → scutching → sizing → shearing → decatizing → coiling.

Raw materials of yarn: adopting worsted or semi-worsted wool yarns, wherein the blending ratio (wool content) of wool in the yarns is not less than 50 percent so as to meet the requirements of fulling processing; the yarn is basically dyed (loose fiber dyeing, worsted and wool top dyeing can be adopted).

Weaving by a circular weaving machine: and weaving the yarns into the cylindrical knitted original cloth by adopting a weft knitting circular knitting machine according to the designed tissue and specification requirements.

Cloth turning: the original cloth with the front side (one side of the loop column pressing loop arc) outwards woven by the circular machine is rolled, and the back side (one side of the loop column pressing loop) outwards, so that the front side of the fabric is prevented from being damaged in subsequent processing and the quality of a finished product is prevented from being influenced.

Humidifying and preshrinking: putting the turned rope-shaped raw cloth into a rotary pre-shrinking machine (a factory is called as a 'polar fleece machine'), adding clean water, stirring and cleaning (the water temperature is about 50 ℃) for about 30min, relaxing the internal stress of the fabric, enabling the fabric to be uniformly impregnated, enabling the fibers in the fabric to absorb moisture and expand, and enabling a small amount of wool fibers to be extruded out of a yarn body.

And (3) dehydrating: after the fabric is preshrunk, the fabric is directly dewatered in a preshrunk machine (similar to the spin-drying operation of a household washing machine) so as to make the fabric reach the required moisture content.

And (3) wool milling: the dewatered fabric is sent into a fulling machine, humidifying and adding fulling agent are carried out in the fulling machine, the wet fabric is circularly piled, pulled and extruded in a rope shape and repeatedly extruded, rubbed and kneaded, and mutually interpenetrated and interwoven and felted under the felting action of wool in the fabric yarn body, and the head end of the wool fiber extends out of the yarn body and the surface of the fabric to form a suede. The fulling finishing is different according to different product varieties and is generally 60-120 min.

Washing with water: and (3) cleaning the fabric after the fulling by adopting a rotary washing machine, washing to remove fibers falling off in the fulling processing, and adding auxiliaries such as a smoothing agent, a softening agent and the like into a washing bath according to needs.

And (3) dehydrating: and (4) removing the excessive moisture of the fabric by a spin-drying principle.

Scutching: the tubular fabric is cut along one side to be in a single-layer flat-width shape.

Shaping: the open-width fabric is continuously processed in a setting machine under the action of certain tension to stabilize the size of the fabric, the setting temperature is generally 140-150 ℃, the retention time of the fabric in the setting machine is generally 4-5 min, and the fabric is different according to different varieties.

Shearing: according to the different varieties and styles of the fabrics and the requirements of customers, a shearing machine is used for shearing hairiness with a certain length on the cloth surface, and the hairiness below a certain height (long hair on the cloth surface and poor pilling resistance) is reserved.

Decating: the fabric is treated by hot steam, internal stress generated by processing the fabric is relaxed, the surface of the fabric is smooth and clean (the effect is similar to steam ironing), and the processing time is about 10min generally.

Coiling: and (3) winding the formed fabric into a roll with a specified length (or required by a customer), inspecting, grading and warehousing.

The appearance of the knitted woolen fabric is as shown in fig. 1, the knitted woolen fabric becomes more compact by shrinkage after the fulling process, and the surface has fine fluff (formed from the root end of the wool fiber drilled from the yarn body).

The core process of the knitting woolen fabric processing is 'fulling' processing, and the fulling processing utilizes the special 'fulling property (felting property)' of wool fibers. The felting property of wool is due to its special scale structure. The wool surface is covered with a scale layer, and the scales have directionality (from root to tip), so that when the wool slides along the length direction, the friction coefficient of sliding along the scales is smaller than that of sliding along the reverse scales, and the wool is called directional friction effect (also called differential micro friction effect). The wool fibers are repeatedly stretched and retracted, the retraction amount of the two ends of the fibers to the mass center is different due to the differential friction effect during retraction, the mass center position of the wool is deviated, and the wool moves towards the root. This movement causes the wool fibers to intermingle, entangle, and tighten into a fibrous product having felted or felted features. This is the theoretical basis for fulling processing.

The wool content of the yarn must reach a certain proportion, the fabric can generate obvious fulling property during fulling processing, the wool content is too low, or the fabric loses the fulling property after mercerizing (shrink-proof) treatment (chemical agent is used for denuding a wool surface scale layer), and the fulling effect cannot be obtained even if fulling processing is carried out.

2. Heat shrinkable fiber

A heat shrinkable fiber is a differentiated synthetic fiber, which means a fiber having a higher heat shrinkage rate in a heat medium (hot air, boiling water, steam) than a general thermoplastic synthetic fiber (the boiling water shrinkage rate of the general synthetic fiber is less than 5%), and a fiber having a shrinkage rate of about 20% is generally called a general shrinkable fiber, and a fiber having a shrinkage rate of 35% to 45% is generally called a high shrinkable fiber.

The heat shrinkable fiber can be prepared by chemical modification (adding copolymerization components during spinning to reduce the internal rotation activation energy of macromolecules) or physical modification (adopting low-temperature, low-power drawing and low-temperature drying during spinning), and the basic principle is that macromolecules in the fiber have certain orientation degree (the fiber has certain mechanical physical properties and basic processability), the crystallinity is reduced or not crystallized (the bonding force between the macromolecules of the fiber is weaker and relative slippage is easy to generate), and under the action of higher temperature, the macromolecules of the fiber are easy to recover a crimp state (the natural conformation of the macromolecules of synthetic fibers is generally in a crimp state) due to aggravation of heat movement, so the length direction of the fiber is obviously shortened.

At present, the high-shrinkage fibers applied in the industry are mainly high-shrinkage acrylic fibers and high-shrinkage polyester fibers.

The high shrinkage fiber staple fibers and other common non-shrinkage or low shrinkage fibers are blended into yarns, or the high shrinkage fiber filaments and the non-shrinkage or low shrinkage fiber filaments form blended yarns, and the blended yarns are subjected to heat setting relaxation processing, the high shrinkage fibers shrink and are tightened to the core yarns, so that the non-shrinkage or low shrinkage fibers are bent, arched and looped, and the fluffy effect is obtained. The heat-shrinking process can be carried out after the formation of the yarns and before the weaving (bulked yarns as shown in fig. 2), or after the weaving of the fabric (wool-like fabric, artificial fur).

After the high shrinkage filament yarn and the non-shrinkage or low shrinkage filament yarn are interwoven into a fabric, the fabric is subjected to a heat shrinkage process, the interwoven region of the high shrinkage yarn is shrunk, and the interwoven region of the non-shrinkage or low shrinkage yarn is swelled and foamed, so that a crepe fabric or a seersucker fabric can be woven, as shown in fig. 3.

The pre-oriented yarn (POY) is a chemical fiber filament with the orientation degree between non-oriented yarn (UDY) and Drawn Yarn (DY) obtained by high-speed spinning (the spinning speed is 3000-6000 m/min), has high shrinkage, and can be used as a heat-shrinkable fiber in the industry (the shrinkage is higher than that of a common high-shrinkable fiber). The typical application of the method is that Fully Drawn Yarns (FDY) and pre-oriented yarns (POY) are mixed in a filament form to form mixed filaments, the mixed filaments are subjected to heat treatment after being woven into a fabric, the pre-oriented yarns shrink, the low-shrinkage or non-shrinkage FDY curls, and the looped and annular fibers protrude out of the surface of the fabric (similar to short fiber hairiness), so that the appearance and the hand feeling of the spun yarn fabric are presented to the filament yarn fabric.

3. Hollow ingot cladding spinning technology

The hollow spindle covered spinning technology is a technology for spinning a composite yarn with a covered structure by taking yarns (filament yarns or staple yarns) as raw materials, a core mechanism of the hollow spindle covered spinning technology is a hollow spindle device, and the covered spinning of the yarns with large performance difference can be realized by utilizing the hollow spindle device, namely, one yarn (covered winding yarn) is wound on the other yarn (core yarn) in a spiral shape. If necessary, two-time wrapping can be carried out, namely two groups of hollow spindle structures are connected in series, and the yarn obtained after one-time wrapping is wrapped again. The composite structure of one wrap (single wrap) and two wraps is shown in fig. 4. Of course, the number of the core yarns may be one or a combination of two or more.

The typical application of the hollow spindle covering machine is to wrap a pre-drawn spandex filament with a polyester or chinlon filament yarn to obtain an elastic covering yarn for weaving an elastic knitted fabric. At present, the raw material combination of the yarn used for cladding processing is diversified continuously, especially in the field of composite processing of non-elastic yarn cladding, such as cladding processing of cotton yarn by adopting polyester filament yarn, cladding processing of stainless steel wire by adopting cotton yarn, and the like. The coating processing can improve the processing performance of the yarn (such as obviously reducing yarn hairiness, improving yarn strength, reducing strength unevenness and the like), can also obtain performance complementation and functionalization of different yarns (adopting functional filaments to be compounded with common yarns), and can even obtain the appearance of mixed color and segment color through compounding of yarns with different colors, thereby realizing the purposes of yarn weaving pulp-free and fabric dyeing-free, and simultaneously improving the wearability (fastness, comfort, appearance retentivity, functionality and the like) of the fabric.

However, the prior art has been less concerned with making a covered yarn or fabric from a wool yarn and a high shrinkage filament yarn.

In view of the above, the present invention is particularly proposed.

Disclosure of Invention

A first object of the present invention is to provide a shrinkage type wool yarn covering yarn to solve at least one of the above problems.

The second purpose of the invention is to provide a preparation method of the shrinkage type wool yarn covering yarn.

The third purpose of the invention is to provide the application of the shrinkage type wool yarn covering yarn in the preparation of the fabric.

A fourth object of the present invention is to provide a fabric.

The fifth purpose of the invention is to provide a preparation method of the fabric.

In a first aspect, the present invention provides a shrinkable type wool yarn covered yarn comprising a core yarn and an outer covered yarn;

the core yarn is a wool yarn or a wool yarn and a high-shrinkage filament yarn A;

the outer wrapping yarn is a high shrinkage filament yarn B.

As a further technical solution, the high shrinkage filament yarn a or the high shrinkage filament yarn B has a shrinkage of 35% to 45%.

As a further technical scheme, the wrapping twist of the covering yarn is 400-600 twists/m.

In a second aspect, the invention provides a method for preparing a shrinkage type wool yarn covering yarn, which comprises the steps of taking a wool yarn or a wool yarn and a high shrinkage filament yarn A as core yarns, and covering a high shrinkage filament yarn B on the core yarns to prepare the shrinkage type wool yarn covering yarn.

In a third aspect, the present invention provides the use of a shrink type wool yarn covered yarn in the manufacture of a fabric.

In a fourth aspect, the invention provides a fabric made primarily from the shrinkable wool yarn covered yarn.

In a fifth aspect, the present invention provides a method of making a fabric, comprising: and sequentially weaving and performing dry heat shrinkage and felting on the shrinkage type wool yarn covering yarn to prepare the fabric.

As a further technical solution, the weaving includes weft knitting;

preferably, when the core yarn of the shrinkage type wool yarn covering yarn is a wool yarn, the processing temperature of the dry heat shrinkage felting is 10 ℃ to 20 ℃ higher than the full heat shrinkage temperature of the high shrinkage filament yarn B;

preferably, when the core yarn of the shrinkage type wool yarn covering yarn is a wool yarn and a high shrinkage filament yarn A, the processing temperature of the dry heat shrinkage felting is 10-20 ℃ higher than the maximum complete heat shrinkage temperature of the high shrinkage filament yarn A and the high shrinkage filament yarn B.

As a further technical scheme, cleaning and drying are also included between the weaving and the dry heat shrinkage milling;

preferably, the drying temperature is not higher than the initial shrinkage temperature of the high shrinkage filament yarn a or the high shrinkage filament yarn B.

As a further technical scheme, the dry heat shrinkage fulling further comprises scutching, sizing, decating and coiling;

preferably, in the decating process, the setting temperature is controlled to be 140-150 ℃.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:

the invention adopts high-shrinkage fiber filament yarn and wool yarn for coating processing, weaves the composite yarn into knitted fabric, shrinks the high-shrinkage component in the fabric through heat treatment, realizes the effect similar to 'fulling', has tight fabric shrinkage, shrinks the high-shrinkage filament yarn in the composite yarn in the fabric to enable the wool yarn to protrude out of the surface of the fabric to form yarn loops, and forms a 'pile layer' with a special structure together with cloth surface hairiness, thus obtaining the knitted woolen fabric with the special suede structure. Compared with the prior art, the invention can achieve the following effects:

the practicability of the yarn raw material is wider.

The invention realizes the shrinkage and tightness of the fabric through the thermal shrinkage of the high-shrinkage fiber, does not depend on the felting property of the wool fiber to realize the shrinkage, has no requirement on the wool content (common wool with a scale layer) of the yarn, and can adopt all wool type yarns to process the knitted woolen fabric.

② saving raw materials and energy saving and emission reduction

The woolen fabric is produced by using wool fulling property to fulling, and repeated stretching, extrusion and friction during fulling can cause part of wool fibers to fall off from the fabric, so that the wool content of wool yarns is reduced by 2-3 percent, and the waste of fiber raw materials is caused. At the same time, repeated stretching and rubbing of the wet fabric also causes damage (abrasion) to the fibers in the fabric, resulting in a decrease in the performance of the fibers and thus the fabric. The dry heat shrinkage felting eliminates repeated stretching, extrusion and friction of the fabric in a wet state, and cannot cause damage and loss of fibers in the fabric.

The dry heat shrinkage fulling is adopted, the use of water and an auxiliary agent can be reduced, and certain economic benefits and social benefits are achieved in the aspects of energy conservation and emission reduction.

Rich design and color of fabric

The high-shrinkage filament yarns with different types, colors and specifications are compounded with the wool-type yarns with different types, colors and specifications, and the composite yarns with different performances, appearances and styles can be spun by adopting different coating compounding technologies and coating processes, so that the variety of the yarn can be enriched, and the variety of the design and the color of the fabric can be increased. For example, if the core yarn and the outer wrapping yarn are in the same color, a single-color composite yarn can be spun, and if the core yarn and the outer wrapping yarn are in different color configurations, a mixed-color yarn can be spun (the outer wrapping yarn is wound on the core yarn to form color block segmentation covering on the core yarn, and the composite yarn can be seen to form a mixed-color appearance with two color blocks arranged alternately). After the wrapping yarn shrinkage type composite yarn is completely shrunk, a structure that the high shrinkage filament yarn is wound and shrunk by wool yarn and protrudes out of yarn loops randomly is formed; and after the core yarn shrinkage type composite yarn is completely shrunk, a structure that the yarn loops are protruded between the wrapping yarn winding spirals of the wool yarn and the wrapping yarn winding spirals of the wool yarn is formed, and the probability that the yarn loops of the two types of composite yarns appear on the front side and the back side of the fabric is also different, so that different cloth cover styles are formed.

Fourthly, the weaving efficiency is improved

The doubling effect of the covering processing of the wool yarns and the high-shrinkage filament yarns can improve the yarn strength, reduce the unevenness of the strength and improve the yarn evenness, thereby improving the weaving efficiency of the circular weaving machine (reducing the yarn broken end joint time in the weaving process) and the fabric quality (reducing the cloth cover defects caused by yarn joints).

Fifthly, obtaining special fabric performance and style

After the high-shrinkage filament yarns in the fabric are completely shrunk, the linear density is increased, the hand feeling stiffness of the final fabric is increased, and the initial linear density (thickness) or the original cloth-off density of the high-shrinkage filament yarns is adjusted, so that the hand feeling of the fabric after different shrinkages can be obtained. The hand feeling of the fabric is different from that of the common woolen fabric, and the fabric has a special style.

The surface plush layer of the dry milling woolen fabric is formed by plush yarn loops and plush held by the cloth cover, and the tactile comfort of the cloth cover is mainly determined by the plush yarn loops, so that the dry milling woolen fabric has the tactile style and the visual style different from those of the common knitted woolen fabric.

Drawings

In order to more clearly illustrate the embodiments of the present invention or the technical solutions in the prior art, the drawings used in the description of the embodiments or the prior art will be briefly described below, and it is obvious that the drawings in the following description are some embodiments of the present invention, and other drawings can be obtained by those skilled in the art without creative efforts.

FIG. 1 is a knitted woolen fabric;

FIG. 2 is a bulked yarn;

FIG. 3 is a seersucker fabric;

FIG. 4 is a schematic view of the mechanism for wrapping yarn;

FIG. 5 is a schematic view of the covered yarn spinning principle of the wrap yarn shrinkage type wool yarn;

FIG. 6 is a core yarn shrinkage type wool yarn covering spinning principle;

FIG. 7 is a schematic view of a drying and dry heat shrinkage milling process;

fig. 8 is a heat shrinkage behavior of the polyester POY;

FIG. 9 is a 3 wool covered yarn appearance;

FIG. 10 is the appearance of 3 wool covered cop;

FIG. 11 shows the fully contracted configuration of the 3 wrap yarns;

FIG. 12 is an outer wrap yarn shrinkage type wrap yarn fabric;

FIG. 13 shows a core yarn shrinkage type covering yarn fabric-nylon high elastic yarn covering;

FIG. 14 shows a core yarn shrinkage type covering yarn fabric covered with PBT stretch yarn.

Icon: 1-a core yarn bobbin; 2-a yarn guide hook; 3-a tensioner; 4-hollow ingot; 5-a spindle tube; 6-wrapping the winding yarn; 7-a converging yarn guide hook; 8-a yarn guide roller; 9-a yarn guide rod; 10-a traverse guide; 11-a winding roller; 12-yarn forming bobbin.

Detailed Description

Embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to embodiments and examples, but those skilled in the art will understand that the following embodiments and examples are only illustrative of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention. Those who do not specify the conditions are performed according to the conventional conditions or the conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The reagents or instruments used are not indicated by the manufacturer, and are all conventional products available commercially.

In a first aspect, the present invention provides a shrinkable type wool yarn covered yarn comprising a core yarn and an outer covered yarn;

the core yarn is a wool yarn or a wool yarn and a high-shrinkage filament yarn A;

the outer wrapping yarn is a high shrinkage filament yarn B.

The following were selected for the yarns in the present invention:

wool yarn selection: the technology realizes the tight shrinkage of the fabric through the thermal shrinkage of the thermal shrinkage fiber; the wool yarn components are bent and protrude out of yarn loops formed on the surface of the fabric through the shrinkage of the high-shrinkage filament yarn to form a fabric surface wool layer, and the shrinkage of the fabric and the pile increase are realized independent of the felting property of wool fibers. The requirements of components, mixing ratio, linear density, color and the like of the fabric can be comprehensively considered according to the style of the fabric, market requirements and customer requirements, and the fabric can be purchased in a yarn market or is spun in a yarn mill (customized spinning).

Selecting high-shrinkage filament yarns: in order to compound the wool yarns and the high-shrinkage fibers, the technical scheme selects the high-shrinkage filament yarns as shrinkage components. Key parameters of the high shrinkage filament yarn include fiber type, gauge parameters, heat shrinkage temperature and shrinkage, wherein the shrinkage may be, for example, but not limited to, 35%, 37%, 39%, 41%, 43% or 45%. The fiber types such as terylene, chinlon, PBT (polybutylene terephthalate) and the like can be selected according to the style of the fabric and the requirements of wearability; the specification parameters comprise bus density, monofilament linear density, color and the like, and can be selected according to the style and the wearability requirements of the fabric; the heat-shrinking temperature includes the initial shrinking temperature and the complete shrinking temperature, wherein the complete shrinking temperature is more important, namely the temperature which needs to be reached by the high-shrinkage filament yarn to achieve complete shrinkage (reaching the shrinkage limit, then increasing the temperature, and not shrinking again), and due to the structural characteristics of the high-shrinkage fiber, the complete shrinking temperature is generally lower than the processing temperature which can be endured by common fiber processing (the fiber performance and the fabric quality cannot be damaged after short time), but if the wool yarn blending component contains fibers (such as polypropylene) with lower melting points, the high-shrinkage filament yarn with lower complete shrinking temperature needs to be selected; the thermal shrinkage factor should be considered comprehensively in combination with the lower machine density (square meter weight) of the circular machine woven fabric and the target fabric density (square meter weight), on the premise that the target fabric density is not changed, if the weaving density is low, the high shrinkage filament yarn with a relatively large thermal shrinkage factor should be selected, and on the contrary, under the condition that the thermal shrinkage factor of the high shrinkage filament yarn is fixed, the density of the circular machine woven fabric should be adjusted to meet the target density requirement after shrinkage.

It should be noted that the high-shrinkage filament yarn a or the high-shrinkage filament yarn B in the present invention may be the same kind of high-shrinkage filament yarn or different high-shrinkage filament yarns.

Thirdly, selecting the outer wrapping yarn of the core yarn shrinkage type wool yarn wrapping yarn: when the core yarn shrinkage type wool yarn cladding yarn is heated to shrink, the high shrinkage filament yarn shrinks, the wool yarn is bent and looped, at the moment, in order to ensure that the wool yarn loops form a fabric surface suede, the outer wrapping yarn should have certain shrinkage, when the high shrinkage filament yarn shrinks, the outer wrapping yarn can also shrink (the shrinkage rate can be smaller than that of the high shrinkage filament yarn), the wool yarn can be tightly bound on the shrunk high shrinkage filament yarn, the yarn structure stability and the yarn loop structure stability in the fabric are kept, the outer wrapping yarn can also be loosened, bent and expanded like the wool yarn instead of shrinking along with the high shrinkage filament yarn, and a cloth cover velvet layer is formed together with the wool yarn loops. Shrinkage of the outer wrap yarn can be achieved by two principles: firstly, the outsourcing winding yarn has larger elasticity (high stretch yarn), when the outsourcing winding yarn is wound on the core yarn, the outsourcing winding yarn generates larger elastic extension under the action of winding tension, and when the high-shrinkage filament yarn shrinks, the outsourcing winding yarn elastically shrinks but still keeps the winding structure of the core yarn and cannot bulge out a yarn loop; and secondly, the outer wrapping yarn also adopts shrinkage fiber, the shrinkage temperature of the outer wrapping yarn is not higher than that of the high-shrinkage filament yarn, and the thermal shrinkage rate of the outer wrapping yarn can be lower than that of the high-shrinkage filament core yarn, so that the outer wrapping yarn also has certain thermal shrinkage during the shrinkage of the high-shrinkage filament core yarn, and certain wrapping tightness of the core yarn (the high-shrinkage filament core yarn and the wool yarn core yarn after the shrinkage) is kept.

In some preferred embodiments, the wrapping twist of the covering yarn may be, for example, but not limited to, 400 twists/m, 450 twists/m, 500 twists/m, 550 twists/m, or 600 twists/m.

The key process parameter for the covering process is the wrapping twist (the number of loops of wrapping yarn per unit length of core yarn). The wrapping twist affects the morphology and density of loops of the wool yarn (number of loops per unit length of yarn) after heat-shrinking of the composite yarn. The larger the wrapping twist, the smaller the loop shape of a single loop, and the higher the density of the loops, are important factors for determining the suede effect of the dry milling fabric (the shape and density of the loops are also related to the softness of the wool yarn, the softer the wool yarn, and the larger the loop density and the smaller the loop shape under the same other conditions).

The wrapping twist is adjusted by the take-up speed, thus affecting the yield. The yield and the yarn loop effect are comprehensively considered, and the wrapping twist is preferably 400-600 twists/m.

In a second aspect, the invention provides a method for preparing a shrinkage type wool yarn covering yarn, which comprises the steps of taking a wool yarn or a wool yarn and a high shrinkage filament yarn A as core yarns, and covering a high shrinkage filament yarn B on the core yarns to prepare the shrinkage type wool yarn covering yarn.

The preparation method is simple and convenient. For example, the combination of the wool yarn and the high-shrinkage filament yarn can be realized by spinning the covering yarn by using a hollow spindle covering technique (equipment) and taking the wool yarn and the high-shrinkage filament yarn as raw materials.

The spinning technology of the covering yarn can adopt the following two technical schemes:

wrapping yarn shrinkage type wool yarn wrapping yarn: the wool yarn is used as core yarn, the high-shrinkage filament yarn is used as outer wrapping yarn, and the wrapping yarn is spun. The technical route is shown in figure 5.

The wool yarn is led out from a core yarn bobbin 1, passes through a yarn guide hook 2 positioned above the package center, then passes through an adjustable tensioner 3, enters a central tube of a hollow spindle 4 from the lower end, and penetrates out upwards. The spindle tube 5 is looped over the hollow spindle 4 and fixed to the hollow spindle 4 with a lower holder and a spindle cap so as to rotate together with the hollow spindle 4. An outer wrapping yarn 6 (a high shrinkage filament yarn wound on the bobbin 5 by a special winder before a wrapping process) is wound on the bobbin 5, and the outer wrapping yarn 6 is unwound from the bobbin 5, led out, and converged with a core yarn led out from the upper end of the central tube of the hollow spindle 4 at a converging yarn guide 7. The spindle pipe 5 and the hollow spindle 4 rotate together at a high speed to drive the external wrapping yarn 6 to rotate at a high speed, and the external wrapping yarn 6 is wound on the core yarn. The composite yarn is guided by the yarn guide roller 8 to be output, guided by the yarn guide rod 9, passes through a yarn guide porcelain eye on the traverse guide 10, is wound on a yarn forming bobbin 12 which is frictionally driven by the winding roller 11 in a cross winding manner under the guidance of the traverse guide 10, and is wound into a yarn bobbin.

(note: because the hairiness of the wool yarn is large, the backing-off resistance is large when backing off from the spindle tube at high speed, and the wool yarn can not be used as the wrapping yarn and the high-shrinkage filament yarn can not be used as the core yarn to carry out the coating processing on the hollow spindle coating machine applied in the industry at present).

The resulting yarn structure is shown in fig. 4 (a) single covered yarn, where the core yarn is wool yarn and the outer covered yarn is a high shrinkage filament yarn.

Core yarn shrinkage type wool yarn covering yarn: the wool yarn and the high-shrinkage filament yarn are used as core yarns, the high-shrinkage filament yarn (which can be the same as or different from the high-shrinkage filament yarn used as the core yarn) or other synthetic fiber high-elastic yarns are used as outer wrapping yarns for wrapping and compounding, and the composite yarn of the wool yarn and the high-shrinkage filament yarn is spun to realize the compounding of the wool yarn and the high-shrinkage filament yarn. The technical route is shown in fig. 6.

The wool yarn and the high-shrinkage filament yarn are respectively led out from respective bobbins, the core yarn bobbin 1 is led out, combined and passed through a yarn guide hook 2 positioned above the package center, then passed through an adjustable tensioner 3, and fed into a central tube of a hollow spindle 4 from the lower end and upwards penetrated out. The spindle tube 5 is looped over the hollow spindle 4 and fixed to the hollow spindle 4 with a lower holder and a spindle cap so as to rotate together with the hollow spindle 4. An outer wrapping yarn 6 (a high shrinkage filament yarn wound on the bobbin 5 by a special winder before a wrapping process) is wound on the bobbin 5, and the outer wrapping yarn 6 is unwound from the bobbin 5, led out, and converged with a core yarn led out from the upper end of the central tube of the hollow spindle 4 at a converging yarn guide 7. The spindle pipe 5 and the hollow spindle 4 rotate together at a high speed to drive the external wrapping yarn 6 to rotate at a high speed, and the external wrapping yarn 6 is wound on the core yarn. The composite yarn is guided by the yarn guide roller 8 to be output, guided by the yarn guide rod 9, passes through a yarn guide porcelain eye on the traverse guide 10, is wound on a yarn forming bobbin 12 which is frictionally driven by the winding roller 11 in a cross winding manner under the guidance of the traverse guide 10, and is wound into a yarn bobbin. A covering yarn of the wool yarn and the high shrinkage filament yarn was obtained, and the resultant yarn structure was as in (b) of fig. 4.

In a third aspect, the invention provides the use of a shrink type wool yarn covered yarn in the manufacture of a fabric.

The shrinkage type wool yarn wrap yarn provided by the invention has high yarn strength and good uniformity, and is beneficial to improving the weaving efficiency and the fabric quality.

In the present invention, the term "fabric" refers to a fabric woven from yarns and a product obtained by further processing the fabric.

In a fourth aspect, the invention provides a fabric made primarily from the shrinkable wool yarn covered yarn.

The fabric has good cloth cover touch comfort and high quality.

In a fifth aspect, the present invention provides a method of making a fabric, comprising: and sequentially weaving the shrinkage type wool yarn covering yarn and performing dry heat shrinkage milling (dry milling) to prepare the fabric.

In the invention, for the weaving step, the weaving density of the raw knitted fabric can be determined according to the target fabric density and the shrinkage rate of the high-shrinkage fibers, the weaving process such as the texture, the loop length, the loop density (the loop length and the loop density of the knitted fabric) and the like of the fabric can be designed according to the yarn specification and the fabric style, and the raw knitted fabric can be woven by a circular knitting machine.

For the dry heat shrinkage and milling step, the fabric is subjected to dry heat treatment, and the treatment temperature is controlled to be higher than the complete heat shrinkage temperature of the heat shrinkable fiber (for example, higher by 10 ℃, 12 ℃, 14 ℃, 16 ℃, 18 ℃ or 20 ℃, and adjusted according to the fabric weight) so as to be sufficiently shrunk (to the maximum shrinkage).

The high-shrinkage filament yarn in the fabric yarn shrinks and shortens in length under the action of heat, and the fabric becomes compact due to the shrinkage of the yarn length; meanwhile, as the wool yarns are not shrunk or the shrinkage is obviously smaller than that of the high-shrinkage filament yarns, the wool yarns are bent and expanded to form yarn loops, and the yarn loops float on the surfaces of the yarns and the fabric to form a suede layer together with hairiness (fiber ends) on the surface of the fabric.

In some preferred embodiments, between the weaving and the dry heat-shrinkable tweed, further comprising washing and drying.

The cleaning is to remove stains generated in the spinning and weaving processes, and a certain amount of detergent can be added during cleaning to improve the cleaning effect (the variety and the dosage of the detergent are required according to the conventional requirements). The washing temperature is controlled below the initial shrinkage temperature of the heat shrinkable fibers to prevent the fabric from shrinking irregularly in advance.

The cleaned fabric is dried by a hot air type dryer, and the temperature of circulated hot air is controlled to be not more than the initial shrinkage temperature of the heat shrinkable fiber.

The principle of the drying and milling process is shown in figure 7.

The dehydrated fabric enters a dryer (conventional hot air drying equipment) in an open width mode, is repeatedly folded under the guide of guide rollers to increase the drying efficiency, discharges excessive moisture under the heating action of flowing hot air, and simultaneously improves the temperature of the fabric to prepare for drying and milling. The dried fabric enters a dry milling machine, a feeding roller feeds the fabric to a rotary curtain, and the revolving linear speed of the curtain is lower than the feeding speed of the feeding roller, so that the overfeeding effect is formed, and the length allowance is provided for the fabric shrinkage. The fabric moving with the curtain reaches or even exceeds the complete shrinkage temperature of the high shrinkage filament under the action of hot air, and the fabric is shrunk to a state of complete shrinkage of the high shrinkage filament and is output by an output roller. The speed of the rotary curtain and the speed of the output roller are comprehensively determined according to the speed of the feeding roller and the longitudinal shrinkage rate of the fabric.

In some preferred embodiments, the dry heat shrink felting further comprises scutching, sizing, decating and rolling.

Scutching: the tubular fabric is cut along one side to be in a single-layer flat-width shape.

Shaping: the open-width fabric is continuously hot-processed under the action of certain longitudinal and transverse tension in a setting machine, the possible bending and curling of high-shrinkage filaments in the dry-shrinkage wool processing process are eliminated, the fabric structure and the size are stabilized, the setting temperature is comprehensively considered according to the fabric fiber components and the fabric specification, and the residence time of the fabric in the setting machine is also set according to different fabric fiber compositions and varieties (thicknesses). The basis is set such that the properties of the fibers and the quality of the fabric (e.g., appearance discoloration) are not impaired. Because the high shrinkage fibers in the fabric are completely shrunk, the structure is stable, and the shrinkage rate of the fabric can not be influenced by the heat setting temperature and time. In the subsequent processing and use of the fabric, the stable shape of the fabric is kept unchanged as long as the temperature is not higher than the heat setting temperature, so that the heat setting temperature can be controlled to be higher and can be generally controlled to be 140-150 ℃, and when the fiber component contains a component with poor high temperature tolerance, the heat setting temperature can be properly reduced, and the heat setting time is correspondingly prolonged.

Decating: the fabric is treated by hot steam, internal stress generated by processing the fabric is relaxed, the surface of the fabric is smooth and clean, and the processing time is comprehensively considered according to the fiber components of the fabric and the specification of the fabric, so that the process effect is achieved.

Coiling: and (3) winding the formed fabric into a roll with a specified (required) length, inspecting, grading and warehousing.

The present invention is further illustrated by the following specific examples and comparative examples, but it should be understood that these examples are for illustrative purposes only and are not to be construed as limiting the invention in any way.

Examples

1 high shrinkage filament yarn and heat shrinkage property thereof

The high-shrinkage filament yarn used was 150D/72F polyester POY (pre-oriented yarn) which was light gray in color.

In order to grasp the heat shrinkage property, the heat shrinkage property was tested. The test piece of the high shrinkage filament yarn having a length of 20cm and a heat treatment temperature of 3 minutes, the result of measuring shrinkage according to temperature is shown in FIG. 8.

As can be seen from fig. 8, the polyester POY used did not shrink at 60 ℃ and significantly shrunk at 70 ℃, indicating that its heat shrinkage initiation temperature was between 60 ℃ and 70 ℃. The thermal shrinkage rate increases with increasing temperature, and up to 90 ℃, the shrinkage limit (full shrinkage) has been reached, indicating that the full shrinkage temperature is between 80 ℃ and 90 ℃, and after 90 ℃, the temperature increases again, the shrinkage rate does not increase (the straightened length of the yarn does not change), but rather a different degree of crimping (bending, curling) occurs, and the degree of crimping increases with increasing temperature.

And in the tests it was observed that the shrinkage speed increased with increasing temperature, and that the filament yarn completed its full shrinkage in 30 seconds after a temperature of over 90 c.

The mechanism of the thermal shrinkage of the fiber is as follows: fiber absorbs heat → macromolecule heat movement in fiber is intensified → macromolecule overcomes intermolecular force to shrink, and recovers crimping conformation and fiber shrinkage. The higher the heat treatment temperature, the faster the fibers absorb heat and the faster the shrinkage rate. After the fibers recover their crimped conformation, the fibers are heated continuously, so that the macromolecules will not shrink again, but will deform due to thermal motion, and the fibers are irregularly bent and curled.

A20 cm sample of the filament yarn was heat-treated at 90 ℃ for 2 minutes (full shrinkage), and the average length after full shrinkage was 7cm, the average heat shrinkage was (20-7)/20-65%.

2 spinning and Heat-shrinking Properties of the covered yarn

The wool yarn used for spinning the composite yarn is 38 metric count semi-worsted wool yarn, and the color is black.

(1) Contracting type wrapping yarn for wrapping yarn

The core yarn adopts 38 metric count black wool yarn, the outer wrapping yarn adopts light gray terylene POY, and the wrapping twist degree is 500 twists/m.

(2) Core yarn shrinkage type covering yarn

2 core yarn shrinkage type covering yarns are co-spun.

The core yarn is formed by combining 38 metric count black wool yarn and light gray polyester POY (polyester pre-oriented yarn), the outer wrapping yarn is formed by white 50D/24F chinlon (PA6) stretch yarn (high stretch yarn), and the wrapping twist degree is 500 twists per meter.

Secondly, the core yarn is a double-core yarn formed by combining 38 metric count black wool yarn and light gray polyester POY, the outer wrapping yarn is white PBT (polyester 4) filament yarn with nominal heat shrinkage rate of 38 percent (data provided by fiber manufacturers) and linear density of 50D/24F, the actual measured complete shrinkage temperature is 80 ℃, and the complete shrinkage time at 80 ℃ is less than 30 seconds.

The appearance of the 3 composite yarns is shown in fig. 9 and 10. In the figure, the shrinkage type wrapping yarn wrapped by the wrapping yarn, the shrinkage type wrapping yarn of the core yarn taking the nylon elastic yarn as the wrapping yarn and the shrinkage type wrapping yarn of the core yarn taking the PBT filament yarn as the wrapping yarn are sequentially arranged from top to bottom.

As can be seen from fig. 9 and 10, the contracting type single-core single-over composite yarn of the over-wrapped yarn is uniform tinge gray (color mixing effect of alternate arrangement of black and light gray color blocks), the contracting type over-wrapped yarn of the other two types of double-core single-over yarns is in a tinge gray appearance, and the double-core yarn composed of the black wool yarn and the light gray high-contraction filament yarn generates false twist when being subjected to the tension of the wrapping yarn winding, so that the double-core yarn presents a tinge color appearance similar to the segment color.

Since the PBT filament yarn has a large elasticity (one of characteristics of PBT fiber), the yarn is irregularly bent in a natural state.

(3) Form change after thermal shrinkage of yarn

The 3 yarns after heat treatment (90 ℃, 2 minutes) completely contracted are shown in figure 11, and the shrinkage type single-core single-wrapped covered yarn with the outer wrapped yarn, the shrinkage type double-core single-wrapped covered yarn with the outer wrapped yarn being nylon stretch yarn and the shrinkage type double-core single-wrapped covered yarn with the outer wrapped yarn being PBT filament yarn are sequentially arranged from top to bottom.

As can be seen from fig. 11, since the high shrinkage filament yarn is shrunk by heating, the core yarn of the shrink type single core single covered covering yarn of the covered covering yarn is exchanged in position with the covered covering yarn, the wool yarn originally being the core yarn becomes the covered covering yarn, and since the high shrinkage of the filament yarn, the wool yarn generates a redundant length, and is loosely wound in the length direction of the composite yarn and has an appearance that the loops are protruded. 2 the core yarn shrinkage type covering yarn presents similar appearance after heat treatment, because of the thermal shrinkage of the high shrinkage filament core yarn, the wool yarn protrudes from the winding spiral line of the outer covering winding yarn and forms a yarn loop, the yarn loop has both an open omega shape and a cross closed shape, and two ends of the yarn loop are still tightly wound and fixed on the shrunk filament core yarn by the outer covering winding yarn which is elastically shrunk or thermally shrunk.

The shrunk form of the wool covered yarn is given here only to facilitate understanding of the loop formation, form and distribution characteristics of the yarn after heat shrinkage.

The yarn after shrinkage is tensioned, the length after shrinkage can be measured, and the reference value of the yarn shrinkage can be obtained by comparing the length with the length of the yarn sample before shrinkage. The actually measured heat shrinkage rates of the 3 kinds of wrapping yarns are 58%, 65% and 65% in sequence, wherein the shrinkage rate of the outer wrapping yarn shrinkage type composite yarn of the single-core single package is smaller than that of the high shrinkage filament yarn, which shows that in the shrinkage process of the outer wrapping yarn, the exchange of the positions of the two needs to overcome larger steric hindrance, and the filament is partially shrunk and consumed by buckling deformation. The thermal shrinkage of both the two dual core single covered yarns was the same as the high shrinkage filament yarn, indicating that no significant resistance was experienced during shrinkage of the high shrinkage core yarn.

3 knitted fabric and dry heat milling cloth thereof

The 3 kinds of wool yarn covering yarns are subjected to weft knitting to obtain weft knitted fabrics, and then the fabric is sequentially subjected to dry heat shrinkage felting, scutching, sizing, decating and coiling to obtain the fabric, as shown in fig. 12, 13 and 14.

To allow for reasonable shrinkage of the fabric, the fabric is woven using a lower weave density (80 stitches/11 inch) and the weave is plain weave. The same weaving process is adopted for 3 yarns for comparison.

The dry milling (dry heat shrinkage milling) treatment condition is 100 ℃ for 2 minutes.

The fabric is placed on a standard a4 black cardboard for visual comparison. In each figure, the fabric front side sample is on top and the fabric back side sample is on the bottom (the mark point in the figure is the length direction shrinkage rate test reference point).

As can be seen from fig. 12, 13, 14:

the 3 fabrics all shrink remarkably after heat treatment. The actual shrinkage results were as follows:

kind of fabric	Longitudinal shrinkage rate	Transverse shrinkage rate
			Shrinkage type covered yarn fabric with wrapped yarn	37％	54％
Core yarn shrinkage type cladding yarn fabric-nylon high stretch yarn cladding	43％	47％
			Core yarn shrinkage type coated yarn fabric-PBT high-shrinkage yarn coating	40％	47％

Due to the loop-forming and loop-forming structure of the knitted fabric, the longitudinal (wale direction) shrinkage rates of the fabric are different from the transverse (course direction), the transverse shrinkage rate is significantly larger than the longitudinal shrinkage rate, and the transverse shrinkage rates of the 3 fabrics are approximately the same; the longitudinal shrinkage rate is different to a certain extent (but the difference is not large) due to the difference between the yarn structure and the linear density, the shrinkage rate of the fabric of the shrink type wrapping yarn wrapped by the outer wrapping yarn is the minimum (the shrinkage rate of the yarn is consistent with the shrinkage rate rule of the yarn), and the fabric shrinkage rate of the shrink type wrapping yarn wrapped by the core yarn wrapped by the nylon high-elastic yarn is the maximum.

Secondly, after the fabric is completely contracted, the black wool yarn loops protrude out of the surface of the fabric to form coverage on the surface of the fabric, so that the color of the fabric is darkened after the fabric is contracted. The loop protrusion characteristics of the 3 fabrics differ: the wrapping yarn shrinkage type wrapping yarn fabric is wrapped, and the difference of the protruding parts of the yarn loops on the front side and the back side is small (the difference of the colors of the front side and the back side is small after shrinkage); the core yarn shrinkage type covered yarn fabric has the advantages that the number difference of the protruding loops on the front side and the back side is obvious (the color difference of the front side and the back side is large after shrinkage), the loops mainly protrude on the back side (one side of the loop arc pressing loop column), and the number of the protruding loops on the front side is much smaller.

In practical use, if the core yarn and the outer wrapping yarn are in the same color, the color difference between the front side and the back side cannot be seen, but the distribution difference of the yarn rings on the front side and the back side exists.

It can be deduced that: if other fabric weaves are used, such as rib weaves (the front wales and the back wales are arranged alternately) or links (the front courses and the back courses are arranged alternately), then the effect of consistent front and back can be obtained.

In practical use, the fabric tissue can be selected according to the actual use and requirements of the fabric, and the appearance rule of the yarn loops is controlled. For example, with the rib weave or links weave, the wale or wale is more prominent, and thus, the stripes caused by the protruding loops can be formed on the fabric surface.

And thirdly, the fabric which is completely contracted in a relaxed state can cause the unevenness of the surface of the fabric due to the buckling deformation of yarn loops in the fabric, and a flat cloth cover can be obtained after shaping and finishing. Since the high shrinkage fibers have been completely shrunk, even if the setting temperature is higher than the dry spinning temperature, the high shrinkage filaments are not re-shrunk, but the crimp of the high shrinkage fibers can be straightened and the straightened state (the general property of thermoplastic fibers) can be maintained.

Because the different-color yarns are adopted for coating processing, the outer wrapping yarn shrinkage type coating yarn fabric has a mixed-color appearance, and the core yarn shrinkage type coating yarn fabric has a special snowflake (camouflage) appearance.

Finally, it should be noted that: the above embodiments are only used to illustrate the technical solution of the present invention, and not to limit the same; while the invention has been described in detail and with reference to the foregoing embodiments, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that: the technical solutions described in the foregoing embodiments may still be modified, or some or all of the technical features may be equivalently replaced; and the modifications or the substitutions do not make the essence of the corresponding technical solutions depart from the scope of the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention.

Claims (10)

1. A shrinkage type wool yarn covering yarn is characterized by comprising a core yarn and an outer covering winding yarn;

the core yarn is a wool yarn or a wool yarn and a high-shrinkage filament yarn A;

the outer wrapping yarn is a high shrinkage filament yarn B.

2. The shrinkage type wool yarn covering yarn of claim 1 wherein said high shrinkage filament yarn a or said high shrinkage filament yarn B has a shrinkage of 35% to 45%.

3. The shrink type wool yarn covering yarn according to claim 1, wherein the covering yarn has a wrapping twist of 400 to 600 twists/m.

4. The method for producing a shrinkage-type covering yarn of any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the shrinkage-type covering yarn is produced by covering the high-shrinkage filament yarn B onto the core yarn using the wool yarn or the wool yarn and the high-shrinkage filament yarn A as the core yarn.

5. Use of the shrink type wool yarn covering of any one of claims 1 to 3 or the shrink type wool yarn covering produced by the production method of claim 4 for producing a fabric.

6. A fabric produced mainly from the shrinkable type wool yarn covering yarn of any one of claims 1 to 3.

7. A method of making a fabric according to claim 6, comprising: the shrinkage type wool yarn covering yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3 is subjected to weaving and dry heat shrinkage milling in this order to prepare a fabric.

8. The method of manufacturing of claim 7, wherein the weaving includes weft knitting;

preferably, when the core yarn of the shrinkage type wool yarn covering yarn is a wool yarn, the dry heat shrinkage tweed has a treatment temperature 10 ℃ to 20 ℃ higher than the full heat shrinkage temperature of the high-shrinkage filament yarn B;

preferably, when the core yarn of the shrinkage type wool yarn covering yarn is a wool yarn and a high shrinkage filament yarn A, the processing temperature of the dry heat shrinkage felting is 10-20 ℃ higher than the maximum complete heat shrinkage temperature of the high shrinkage filament yarn A and the high shrinkage filament yarn B.

9. The method according to claim 7, wherein the steps of weaving and dry heat-shrinking tweed further comprise washing and drying;

preferably, the drying temperature is not higher than the initial shrinkage temperature of the high-shrinkage filament yarn a or the high-shrinkage filament yarn B.

10. The preparation method according to claim 7, wherein the dry heat shrinkage fulling further comprises scutching, sizing, decating and rolling;

preferably, in the decating process, the setting temperature is controlled to be 140-150 ℃.

Images